WO2023117955A1

WO2023117955A1 - Composition comprising an unmodified clay, a magnesium salt, an alpha-hydroxy acid and water

Info

Publication number: WO2023117955A1
Application number: PCT/EP2022/086729
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jeremie RACKELBOOM
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2021-12-21
Filing date: 2022-12-19
Publication date: 2023-06-29
Also published as: FR3130564A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising at least: an unmodified clay chosen from trioctahedral smectites, a magnesium salt, an alpha-hydroxy acid, and water. It is additionally targeted at a cosmetic method comprising at least one stage which consists in applying such a composition to the skin and/or head hair.

Description

Title: Composition comprising an unmodified clay, a magnesium salt, an alphahydroxy acid and water

The present invention relates to a composition for topical application comprising at least one unmodified clay chosen from trioctahedral smectites, a magnesium salt, an alphahydroxy acid, and water, and to the use of said composition in the field, in particular cosmetic field and especially for the care, the hygiene and/or the protection of keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular of the body or of the face, or head hair, preferably for the care of the skin of the body or of the face.

The present invention relates in particular to the field of cosmetic compositions for the care and hygiene of keratin materials, and especially the skin.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to cover the skin, mucus membranes, such as the lips, the nails and keratin fibers, such as the eyelashes and head hair. The skin of the face and/or the skin of the body are very particularly considered according to the invention.

The term “skin” is understood to mean all of the skin of the body, including the scalp, mucus membranes and semimucus membranes, and its appendages. The term “appendages of the skin” is understood to mean body hair, the eyelashes, head hair and the nails. More particularly, in the present invention, the skin of the neckline, of the neck and of the face, and especially the skin of the face, and also the skin of the armpits and of the feet, is considered.

Technical field

There is at the current time an increasing consumer demand for cosmetic products or foodstuffs which are termed “natural” because they employ, as essential components, ingredients which are natural, of natural origin and/or certified biological.

Thus, natural products occupy an increasingly important place in the field of skincare and haircare products.

Nevertheless, the performance of natural products is often considered by consumers to be inferior with respect to that of conventional products.

In addition, society today and consumers are also demanding products whose design gives rise to the smallest possible environmental impact. In this context, the formulator is confronted with a technical challenge as he/she cannot use conventional synthetic starting materials, such as high- performance nonsoaping emulsifiers, thickeners, such as crosslinked or noncrosslinked polyacrylic polymers, or silicones.

Thus, it remains difficult to design natural cosmetic products, the environmental impact of which is as low as possible, which are stable and which have sensory performance qualities equivalent or superior to those of conventional products and specific cosmetic performance qualities, in particular in terms of fresh effect, of deodorant effect (or antiodor effect), of absence of white marks on clothing, or in terms of visibility of the pores, of lack of tackiness, of lack of soaping, or of contribution of mattness, of skin comfort throughout the day.

Prior art

It is known to use clays in cosmetic products. However, these clays are generally either modified clays, not intended to be used in “natural” products, or natural clays, such as kaolin, talc and mica, but which do not have the property of texturizing water.

There furthermore exist natural clays, such as natural hectorites, which can texturize water by virtue of their specific sheet structure comprising interfoliar cations which can be hydrated, in order to form aqueous gels. These gels are supports that are very advantageous for the design of novel natural cosmetic formulations. Nevertheless, they are not stable over time.

Furthermore, it is also known to use magnesium salts in cosmetic compositions, more particularly in products for greasy skin and in products targeted at combating body odors, however not in the presence of water and of unmodified clays which can texturize it.

On the other hand, the manufacture of a formula combining magnesium salts with an unmodified clay-based aqueous gel can be complex. Sudden and substantial texturization of the formula may occur, which is difficult to control. Thus, on conclusion of its manufacture, the viscosity of the formula is sometimes such that it is difficult or even impossible to discharge an industrial tank comprising it. Subsequently, the formula thus manufactured is usually unstable, with the presence of strong syneresis.

Disclosure of the invention Consequently, users are in search of products which simultaneously meet their expectations in terms of cosmetic quality, of texture and of sensory nature, which have a reduced environmental impact, and which preferably favor ingredients which are natural, of natural origin and/or certified biological.

To meet these expectations, the formulator is faced with several challenges, and in particular that of formulating a composition that is as natural as possible:

- whose final texture must be stable irrespective of its desired viscosity:

- while at the same time being easy to industrialize, i.e. with a viscosity of less than 12 Pa. s just after its manufacture to allow it to flow easily in industrial manufacturing devices, notably to allow easy discharging of the tanks comprising it.

In particular, it would be desirable to have available compositions, preferably cosmetic compositions, based on ingredients which are natural, of natural origin and/or certified biological, which are stable, which are easy to manufacture on an industrial scale and which have sensory performance qualities equivalent or even superior to those of conventional products and specific cosmetic performance qualities, in particular in terms of fresh effect, of lack of tackiness, lack of stringiness or lack of soaping (absence of white film during application), of deodorant effect (antiodor effect), of absence of white marks on clothing, or of contribution of mattness, or of visibility of the pores, and of skin comfort throughout the day.

It is precisely an object of the present invention to meet these needs.

Summary of the invention

Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention is targeted at a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising at least:

- an unmodified clay chosen from trioctahedral smectites,

- a magnesium salt,

- an alpha-hydroxy acid, and

- water; in which said at least one magnesium salt is chosen from: magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, magnesium chloride, notably hydrated magnesium chloride, in particular MgC12*6H2O, and their mixtures. The inventors have discovered, surprisingly, that the compositions according to the invention, by virtue of the presence of alpha-hydroxy acid, are not only easier to manufacture and to use industrially, but also more stable, while at the same time being based on ingredients of natural origin, efficient and pleasant to apply.

The combined presence of magnesium salt(s), water gelled with unmodified clay, and AHA according to the present invention avoids the occurrence of sudden and substantial texturization at the end of the manufacture of the composition, which makes it possible to discharge an industrial tank comprising said composition easily and without any problem.

The composition according to the invention is stable, since it does not present any problem of syneresis, i.e. no release of water through the clay structure, within 8 days after its manufacture. Without the addition of alpha-hydroxy acid, instabilities can appear generally on the first days of storage of the manufactured products, within 48 hours and often within the first hours before 24 hours.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “stable composition” thus means a composition which, after 8 days of storage at 25°C, and preferably after 2 months of storage at 25°C, does not show any macroscopic change in color, odor, pH or viscosity, nor does it release water, but which, on the contrary, remains homogeneous and regular.

Moreover, the compositions formed exhibit the advantage of not being tacky or stringy; they are soft, have slip and are fresh on application. Furthermore, they are not soapy; in other words, they do not exhibit a white film during application.

In particular, they have mattifying and deodorant performance qualities of a high level.

Finally, their pH is advantageously close to 12, which does not require addition of preservatives.

A further object of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is a process for preparing a composition as defined according to the present invention, comprising at least one step of adding an alpha-hydroxy acid to an aqueous composition comprising an unmodified clay chosen from trioctahedral smectites, i.e. in which the alpha-hydroxy acid is introduced after the water and the unmodified clay. Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid is introduced after the water and the unmodified clay, and before the magnesium salt(s). A final object of the invention is also a cosmetic method comprising at least one stage which consists in applying a composition as defined above to the skin and/or head hair, preferably the skin of the face and/or of the body.

Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the detailed description which will follow.

Detailed description

UNMODIFIED CLAY

As indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one unmodified clay chosen from trioctahedral smectites.

Generally, the original classification of minerals was that established by the American mineralogist James Dwight Dana (A System of Mineralogy, Durrie & Peck and Herrick & Noyes, 1837, 1^st ed.). It was subsequently expanded and a new classification was published in 1997 (Richard V. Gaines, H. Catherine W. Skinner, Eugene E. Foord, Brian Mason and Abraham Rosenzweig, Dana’s New Mineralogy, John Wiley & Sons, 1997, 8^th ed.).

More particularly, the world reference for the classification of clays is the work by Bergaya/Lagaly (Bergaya F. and Lagaly G., “Handbook of Clay Science”, 2nd Edition. A. Fundamentals — Elsevier Ltd, 2013).

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “unmodified clay” is understood to mean a natural or synthetic clay which has not undergone any modification of whatever type. For example, when an unmodified clay suitable for the invention is an unmodified hectorite, the latter is distinct from hectorites modified by a Cio to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified by distearyldimethylammonium chloride. Un unmodified clay also differs from intercalated clays ingredients which have been modified by addition of any specific intercalation compound voluntarily and artificially inserted between the layers of the clay.

Thus, an unmodified clay in accordance with the invention is included among the natural or synthetic, preferably natural, phyllosilicates, having a “TOT” (tetrahedron-octahedron- tetrahedron: two tetrahedral sheets framing an octahedral layer) sheet structure, also called 2/1 phyllosilicates, belonging to the group of smectites, and more specifically to the subgroup of trioctahedral smectites.

The structure of the smectites differs from the other phyllosilicates in an interfoliar space between each combination of TOT sheets which depends on its state of hydration (clays sometimes said to be “swelling”) and in which interfoliar cations are intercalated.

In particular, the unmodified clays according to the invention are trioctahedral smectites which can be exfoliated or “activated” in the presence of water, thus forming an aqueous gel as the result of the existence of the interfoliar cations within the structure.

When water comes into contact with an unmodified clay suitable for the invention, it hydrates the sheets of the latter, thus bringing about swelling of the distance between the sheets. A separation of the sheets then takes place, possibly via an exfoliation and/or delamination mechanism. An aqueous gel is then obtained. There is essentially a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of this specific type of clay which makes it possible to obtain gelled aqueous phases in the compositions according to the invention.

According to one embodiment, an unmodified clay suitable for the invention is synthetic. According to a preferred embodiment, an unmodified clay suitable for the invention is natural, preferably natural hectorite.

According to a preferred embodiment, an unmodified clay suitable for the invention can comprise at least 30% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, of SiCh, with respect to the total weight of the unmodified clay, and at least 10% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, of MgO, with respect to the total weight of the unmodified clay.

According to a more preferred embodiment, an unmodified clay suitable for the invention can comprise from 35% to 65% by weight of SiCh, with respect to the total weight of the unmodified clay, and from 15% to 30% by weight of MgO, with respect to the total weight of the unmodified clay.

According to a preferred embodiment, a clay suitable for the invention can comprise an SiO2/MgO ratio by weight ranging from 1 to 3, preferably from 1.5 to 2.5, more preferentially from 1.8 to 2.4.

According to another preferred embodiment, a clay suitable for the invention can comprise from 0% to 15% by weight of AI2O3, with respect to the total weight of the unmodified clay. Thus, according to a first alternative form, a clay suitable for the invention is devoid (denuded) of AI2O3.

According to a second alternative form, a clay suitable for the invention can comprise from 0.1% to 15% by weight of AI2O3, preferably from 8% to 12% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the unmodified clay.

According to another preferred embodiment, when AI2O3 is present within the clay suitable for the invention, the latter can comprise an SiCh/AhCh ratio by weight of greater than 3.

According to a specific embodiment, an unmodified clay suitable for the invention has as general molecular formula:

[Chem 1]

F w4+ l 3+l tetra

LⁿB-x ^MX J

in which:

M⁴⁺ represents a cation, preferably Si⁴⁺,

M³⁺ represents a cation, preferably Al³⁺,

M²⁺ represents a cation, preferably Fe²⁺ or Mg²⁺,

M⁺ represents a cation, preferably Li⁺,

X represents an interfoliar cation, preferably Ca²⁺, Na⁺, Li⁺ or their mixtures, x represents the degree of tetrahedral substitution, y represents the degree of octahedral substitution, k represents the valency of the interfoliar cation X, and n represents an integer, preferably from 0 to 100.

The unmodified clay suitable for the invention is generally available in the powder form. According to a particularly preferred form, the unmodified clay suitable for the invention can be chosen from hectorite, stevensite, saponite and their mixtures, preferably hectorite.

The unmodified clay suitable for the invention can be present in a content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably of less than or equal to 8% by weight, more preferentially of less than or equal to 7% by weight, more preferentially still of less than or equal to 6% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the unmodified clay suitable for the invention is present in a content of between 0.5% and 5.0% by weight, preferably between 1% and 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Use can in particular be made, as unmodified clay and more particularly as unmodified hectorite, of that sold by Elementis under the name Bentone EW.

WATER

As set out above, a composition according to the invention additionally comprises water. And, in its presence, an unmodified clay suitable for the invention forms an aqueous gel.

In particular, the water is present in an amount ranging from 30% by weight to 98% by weight, preferably from 35% by weight to 97% by weight and more preferentially from 40% by weight to 95% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

MAGNESIUM SALTS

As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention additionally comprises at least one magnesium salt chosen from: magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, magnesium chloride, notably hydrated magnesium chloride, in particular MgC12*6H2O, and their mixtures.

By “additionally comprises”, it is understood that these magnesium salts are present in the composition of the present invention as an additional or further or separate ingredient. This means that these magnesium salts, explicitly used or added as an ingredient as such in the composition, do not include the inherent compounds, typically MgO, that may constitute the chemical definition of the “unmodified clay” itself as defined above.

Magnesium salt(s), and in particular magnesium oxide (MgO), are effective against bad odors. The higher the active concentration, the more effective the product.

Thus, magnesium salts, due to their high basicity, in particular which exhibit a pH of greater than 8 in solution in water, have an antibacterial action and in addition are capable of neutralizing the malodorous compounds of sweat, such as volatile compounds having short carbon chains of the family of the acids. The magnesium salt is preferably chosen from magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide (Mg(OH)2), magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, magnesium chloride (MgCL), and their mixtures.

Use is preferably made of at least one magnesium salt chosen from magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate and their mixtures. Use is more particularly made of magnesium oxide, magnesium carbonate or their mixture. Alternatively, use is more particularly made of magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide or their mixture.

Preferably, said magnesium salt is magnesium oxide.

The magnesium salt, and in particular magnesium oxide, is provided in the form of a more or less dense white powder. As regards the magnesium oxide, it is only very slightly soluble and is more or less rapidly converted into its hydroxide form in the presence of water and can form a gel of a more or less thick texture. It exhibits a highly alkaline pH, in particular of greater than 10.

The magnesium salt, in particular magnesium oxide, powder thus comprises particles which can in particular be characterized by their size, by their density and also by their specific surface.

Mention may in particular be made, among the magnesium oxides which can be employed in the context of the present invention, of the magnesium oxides sold by Ube Industries under the names Ultra High Purity and Fine Magnesium Oxyde 500A, that sold by Dr. Paul Lohmann under the names Magnesium Oxyde Extra Light or Magnesium Oxy de Extra Light Low Nickel, the magnesium oxides sold by Magnesia under the name of Magnesia 22 or also those sold under the name of Magnesium Oxide Heavy C46/124 by Dr. Paul Lohmann. Mention may in particular be made, as magnesium hydroxide which can be employed in the context of the present invention, of the magnesium hydroxide sold under the name of Magnesium Hydroxide by Dr. Paul Lohmann.

According to a preferred embodiment, a magnesium salt suitable for the invention can be chosen from magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide and their mixtures, preferably magnesium oxide.

In particular, the magnesium salt(s) suitable for the invention is (are) present in a content of between 0.5% and 10.0% by weight, preferably between 0.9% and 10.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. It is understood that the content of magnesium salt(s) which would possibly be present in an additive as described in detail in the present invention does not come within the percentages of content which are indicated above.

Preferably, when a composition according to the invention is devoted to a product for greasy skin, the magnesium salt(s) suitable for the invention is (are) present in a content of between 0.9% and 5.0% by weight, preferably between 0.9% and 1.5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when a composition according to the invention is devoted to a deodorant product, the magnesium salt(s) suitable for the invention is (are) present in a content of between 2% and 10% by weight, preferably between 2% and 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, in a composition according to the invention, the unmodified clay/magnesium salt(s) ratio by weight is between 10/1 and 1/10.

In particular, the unmodified clay/magnesium salt(s) ratio by weight is between 10/1 and 1/2; preferably, it is between 5/2 and 1/4. More particularly, it can be 5/2, 2/2, 1/8, 1/4 or 1/1.

The use of at least one magnesium salt in a composition according to the invention is advantageous in more than one respect. This is because, insofar as, on the one hand, this/these salt(s) exhibit(s) an intrinsic antibacterial activity and as, on the other hand, its pH is high, it is not necessary to add preservatives in order to provide the compositions according to the invention with microbiological protection.

The thickness and the appearance of the gels formed according to the invention vary both as a function of the content of unmodified clay and of the content of the magnesium salt(s).

For example, the greater the content of unmodified clay within a composition according to the invention, the thicker and stiffer the gel obtained.

The addition of a magnesium salt, such as MgO, even in a very small amount, significantly increases the thickness of the gels.

In the case of the combination of small amounts of unmodified clay (for example from 0.5% to 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition) and of large amounts of magnesium salts, such as MgO (for example from 4% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition), the gels are less thick, more manageable, more creamy than in the case where the content of unmodified clay is higher (for example from 3% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition) and the content of magnesium salts, such as MgO, is lower (for example from 1% to 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition).

Advantageously, this thus allows the formulator to design prototypes with varied sensory profiles suited to the nature of the future product (cream for the face or deodorant) and to the mode of application (roll-on, balm or stick).

ALPHA-HYDROXY ACIDS

According to the present invention, the term “alpha hydroxy acid” (also called “a-hydroxy acid” or “AHA”) means a carboxylic acid containing at least one hydroxyl function occupying an alpha position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid function). This acid may be present in the final composition in the form of a free acid and/or in the form of one of its associated salts (salts with an organic base or an alkali metal, notably), depending in particular on the final pH imposed on the composition.

The a-hydroxy acids (alpha-hydroxy acids) are, for example, chosen from citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2- hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2- hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2- hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2- hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2- hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; gluconic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; ribonic acid; tartronic acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; salts thereof and mixtures thereof. Mixtures of these various acids may also be used.

According to a preferred embodiment, the alpha-hydroxy acid is chosen from citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid and salts thereof. More particularly, the alpha-hydroxy acid is chosen from citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

The alpha-hydroxy acid(s) may be present in an amount of, for example, from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% and more preferably from 0.02% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the amount of AHA is sufficient to temporarily decrease the viscosity of the composition that has just been manufactured (at TO), but the pH of the composition quickly returns to a pH close to the pH of the version of said composition without AHA at T24h (24h after TO). Such a content of AHA also avoids any risk of hydrolysis of magnesium salts.

In the composition according to the invention, the weight content of alpha-hydroxy acid is preferably less than that of unmodified clay.

Advantageously, the weight ratio of alpha-hydroxy acid(s)/unmodified clay(s) is in the range from 0.01 to 1, preferably from 0.02 to 0.8, preferably from 0.02 to 0.5, preferably from 0.02 to 0.2.

Preferably, for the compositions according to the invention, the optimum weight content of AHA is proportional to the content of unmodified clay.

ANTISYNERESIS AGENTS

Advantageously, as mentioned above as a function of the sought-after texture, a composition according to the invention may additionally also comprise at least one antisyneresis agent chosen from polyols, natural polymers, organic or nonorganic fillers, crystallizable fatty substances and their mixtures.

The presence of such agent(s) contributes to the stability of the composition insofar as this prevents the onset of syneresis.

According to a preferred embodiment, in a composition according to the invention, the unmodified clay/antisyneresis agents(s) ratio by weight is between 10/1 and 1/10.

Polyols

A composition according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one polyol.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at ambient temperature.

A polyol suitable for the invention can be a compound of saturated or unsaturated and linear, branched or cyclic alkyl type carrying, on the alkyl chain, at least two -OH functional groups, in particular at least three -OH functional groups and more particularly at least four -OH functional groups. The polyols which are advantageously suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are those exhibiting in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the polyol can, for example, be chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 -propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for example diglycerol oligomers, polyethylene glycols and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from propylene glycol, 1,3 -propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols and their mixtures.

According to a more preferred embodiment, said polyol is chosen from propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, glycerol, pentylene glycol and their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one antisyneresis agent chosen from: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, and their mixture, preferably propylene glycol.

According to another specific mode, the composition of the invention can comprise at least butylene glycol.

The polyol(s) advantageously represen t(s) from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 2% to 55% by weight, more preferentially from 3% to 50% by weight and better still from 5% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Natural polymers

A composition according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one natural polymer.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “natural polymer” should be understood as meaning any polymer of natural origin, in particular of vegetable or animal origin or resulting from fermentation, preferably chosen from:

- modified or native polysaccharides, such as alginates, pectins, carrageenans, starches, in particular modified starches, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, acacia gum or gum arabic resulting from the tree Acacia Senegal, locust bean gum, xanthan gum, galactomannans, glucomannans, pullulans, natural or modified scleroglucans, modified or unmodified guar gum, modified or unmodified cellulose, in particular cellulose modified by esterification, etherification (for example CMC, also called carboxymethylcellulose or cellulose gum) and/or crosslinking, hemicellulose, konjac gum, tara gum, karaya gum, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives and/or salts, polyhydroxy alkanoates (PHAs), agar or inulin,

- polyamino acids, such as polylysine, and

- their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, a natural polymer suitable for the invention can be chosen from carrageenans, alginates, xanthan gum and their mixtures.

According to a specific embodiment, a natural polymer suitable for the invention can be chosen from sclerotium gum, acacia gum, cellulose gum and their mixtures.

The natural polymer(s) suitable for the invention can be present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10.00% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, in a composition according to the invention, the unmodified clay/natural polymer(s) ratio by weight is of between 0.005/10 and 1/10, preferably between 0.05/10 and 0.3/10.

Fillers

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one filler distinct from an unmodified clay suitable for the invention.

The filler(s) can in particular be organic fillers and/or inorganic (mineral) fillers.

According to one alternative form, the filler is an inorganic filler.

According to another alternative form, the filler is an organic filler.

According to another alternative form, the fillers present in the composition are a mixture of at least one inorganic (mineral) filler and of at least one organic filler.

The term “filler” should be understood as meaning colorless or white and mineral or synthetic particles of any shape which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

According to a specific embodiment, the fillers used in the present invention exhibit a size, expressed as volume-average diameter D[4,3], ranging from 50 nm to 500 pm. According to a specific embodiment, the fillers used in the present invention exhibit a bulk density of greater than or equal to 0.05 g/cm³.

Organic fillers

In the present patent application, the term “organic filler” is understood to mean any organic solid which is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25°C).

The term “organic” is understood to mean any compound or polymer, the chemical structure of which comprises at least one or more carbon atoms.

Mention may be made, as organic fillers capable of being used in the composition according to the invention, for example, of polyamide (Nylon®) particles and in particular those sold under the names Orgasol® by Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name of Polytrap®; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name Microsphere M-100® by Matsumoto or under the name Covabead LH85® by Wackherr; ethylene/acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name Flobeads® by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; expanded powders, such as hollow microspheres and in particular microspheres formed of a terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate and sold under the name Expancel® by Kemanord Plast under the references 551 DE 12® (particle size of approximately 12 pm), 551 DE 20® (particle size of approximately 30 pm) or 551 DE 50® (particle size of approximately 40 pm), or microspheres sold under the name Micropearl F 80 ED® by Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials, such as polysaccharide powders and in particular starch powders, especially crosslinked or noncrosslinked com, wheat or rice starch powders, powders of starch crosslinked by octenylsuccinic anhydride sold under the name Dry-Flo® by National Starch or powders of waxy com starch, such as those which are sold under the names C* Gel

04201 by Cargill, Maize Starch B by Roquette and Organic Corn Starch by Draco Natural Products; cellulose particles, such as those which are sold under the name

Cellulobeads by Daito Kasei Kogyo - mention may also be made of the range of the Tencel products from Lenzing; silicone resin microbeads, such as those sold under the name Tospearl by Toshiba Silicone, in particular Tospearl 240; amino acid powders, such as the lauroyl lysine powder sold under the name Amihope LL-11® by Ajinomoto; wax microdispersion particles which preferably have mean dimensions of less than 25 pm and in particular ranging from 0.5 pm to 25 pm and which are constituted essentially of a wax or of a mixture of waxes, such as the products sold under the name Aquacer by Byk Cera, and in particular: Aquacer 520 (mixture of synthetic and natural waxes), Aquacer 514® or 513® (polyethylene wax) or Aquacer 511® (polymer wax), or such as the products sold under the name Jonwax 120 by Johnson Polymer (mixture of polyethylene and paraffin waxes) and under the name Ceraflour 961® by Byk Cera (micronized modified polyethylene wax); and their mixtures.

According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the organic filler(s) is (are) chosen from spherical cellulose particles, N-acylamino acid powders and polyamide particles; preferably, they are chosen from spherical cellulose particles and N-acylamino acid powders. In the context of the present invention, the term “spherical particles” is understood to mean particles having the shape or substantially the shape of a sphere and which are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (approximately 100°C). According to a specific embodiment, the spherical cellulose particles which can be used in the context of the invention are microparticles. Preferably, they have a particle size, expressed as volume-average diameter D[4,3], ranging from 0.1 to 35 pm, preferably from 1 to 20 pm and more particularly from 4 to 15 pm.

Mention may in particular be made, as examples of spherical cellulose microparticles, of the solid cellulose beads sold under the names Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5 and Cellulobeads USF by Daito Kasei Kogyo.

The N-acylamino acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The amino acid can, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine.

According to a specific embodiment, the N-acylamino acid(s) comprise(s) an acyl group having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, it is a lauroyl group. Advantageously, the N-acylamino acid powder can be a lauroyl lysine powder, such as that which is sold under the name Amihope LL by Ajinomoto or also that which is sold under the name Corum 5105 S by Corum. Inorganic fillers

In the present invention, the term “inorganic filler” is understood to mean any inorganic solid which is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25°C).

The term “inorganic” is understood to mean any compound or polymer, the chemical structure of which does not comprise a carbon atom.

Mention may be made, as example of inorganic filler, of porous spherical silica particles having a particle size, expressed as volume-average diameter D[4,3], ranging from 50 nm to 500 pm.

In the present patent application, the term “spherical particles” is understood to mean particles having the shape or substantially the shape of a sphere and which are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (approximately 100°C).

According to a specific embodiment, they have a specific surface ranging from 30 to 1000 m²/g and more particularly from 150 to 800 m²/g.

According to another specific embodiment, they have an oil absorption capacity ranging from 0.15 to 5 ml/g and more particularly from 1.30 to 1.90 ml/g.

Use may be made, as examples of porous silica microbeads, of the following commercial products: Silica Beads SB-150, SB-300 or SB-700, preferentially SB-300, from Miyoshi Kasei; the range of the Sunsphere products from Asahi Glass AGC Si-Tech, in particular Sunsphere H-51 or Sunsphere 12L, Sunsphere H-201, H-52 and H-53; Sunsil 130 from Sunjin; Spherica P-1500 from Ikeda Corporation;

Sylosphere from Fuji Silysia; the Silica Pearl and Satinier ranges from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more particularly Satinier M13 and M16; the MSS-500 silicas from Kobo, and more particularly MSS-500-20N; and also the Silica Shells products from Kobo.

Mention may also be made of zeolites, such as the products sold by Zeochem under the names Zeoflair 300, Zeoflair 200, Zeoflair 100, X-Mol and X-Mol MT,

A zeolite is a crystal formed of a microporous aluminosilicate backbone, the related empty spaces of which are initially occupied by cations and water molecules. They are also described as molecular sieves. Mention may also be made of calcium magnesium carbonate, such as those which are sold by Imerys under the name Calcidol, by LCW (Sensient) under the name Carbomat or by Omya under the name Omyacare S 60-AV.

Mention may also be made of lamellar inorganic particles, such as talcs, micas and their mixtures.

Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates generally comprising aluminum silicate. The crystal structure of talc consists of repeated layers of a sandwich of brucite between layers of silica.

More particularly, the lamellar particles are chosen from talcs.

Advantageously, use is more particularly made, in the composition of the invention, as lamellar particles, of talc, such as those sold under the names Luzenac Pharma M and UM by Imerys or Rose Talc and Talc SG-2000 by Nippon Talc.

Mention may be made, among inorganic fillers, of perlite particles and preferably expanded perlite particles.

The perlites which can be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have the composition:

70.0-75.0% by weight of silica SiCh;

12.0-15.0% by weight of aluminum oxide AI2O3;

3.0-5.0% of sodium oxide Na?O;

3.0-5.0% of potassium oxide K2O;

0.5-2% of iron oxide Fe2O3;

0.2-0.7% of magnesium oxide MgO;

0.5-1.5% of calcium oxide CaO;

0.05-0.15% of titanium oxide UO2.

Mention may in particular be made of the perlites sold under the names Optimat 2550 OR by World Minerals, and Europerl EMP-2 and Europerl 1 by Imerys.

Thus, according to a specific embodiment, an organic or nonorganic filler suitable for the invention can be chosen from polyamide particles; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres; ethyl ene/acry late copolymer powders; expanded powders, such as hollow microspheres and in particular microspheres formed of a terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate; powders of natural organic materials, such as polysaccharide powders and in particular starch powders, especially crosslinked or noncrosslinked corn, wheat or rice starch powders, powders of starch crosslinked by octenylsuccinic anhydride; cellulose particles; silicone resin microbeads; amino acid powders, such as lauroyl lysine powder; wax microdispersion particles; porous silica microbeads; zeolites; calcium magnesium carbonate; perlites; and their mixtures.

These fillers can be present in amounts ranging from 0% to 20% by weight and preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

When present, the content of these fillers can range from 0.001% to 20.000% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the concentrations by weight of filler range from 0.1% to 30.0% and preferably from 0.5% to 15.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said composition.

Crystallizable fatty substances

The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one crystallizable fatty substance.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “crystallizable fatty substance” is understood to mean a solid lipophilic compound which is or is not deformable at ambient temperature (25°C) and which exhibits a melting point of greater than or equal to 25°C, preferably of between 25°C and 200°C, preferably of between 25°C and 120°C.

Some crystallizable fatty substances are commonly called waxes.

Within the meaning of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the crystallizable fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments. Such a measurement method is, for example, described in the document PCT/EP2013/062964.

Mention may be made, among crystallizable fatty substances of mineral origin, of: paraffin wax, ozokerite, ceresin and microcrystalline wax. Mention may be made, among crystallizable fatty substances of vegetable origin, of: carnauba wax, candelilla wax, such as that sold under the reference SP 75 G by Strahl & Pitsch, laurel wax, sugar cane wax, ceramide, esparto wax, olive tree wax, rice wax, such as that sold under the reference NC 1720 by Cera Rica Noda, sunflower seed wax, such as that sold by Koster Keunen under the reference sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, polyglyceryl- 3 esters of Acacia decurrens flower, jojoba and sunflower waxes, and absolute flower waxes, such as blackcurrant blossom essential wax, soybean wax, Myrica fruit wax or laurel wax.

Mention may be made, among crystallizable fatty substances of animal origin, of: beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), lanolin and spermaceti.

The crystallizable fatty substance(s) can also be chosen from long-chain crystallizable fatty alcohols and their mixtures, such as, for example, cetearyl (Cie/Cis 50/50) alcohol, such as that sold under the name Lanette O OR by BASF, stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or C26-C22 alcohols.

The crystallizable fatty substance(s) can also be chosen from long-chain crystallizable esters and their mixtures, such as the INCI compound “Cetyl Esters (and) Cetyl Esters Mixture of Myristyl Stearate and Myristyl Palmitate”, or the INCI compound “Mixture of Myristyl Stearate and Myristyl Palmitate”, such as that sold under the name of SP Crodamol MS MBAL-PA-(SG) by Croda, glycol distearate, glycol stearate, cetyl palmitate, such as the commercial product Ercawax CP V/O from the supplier ERCA, isopropyl palmitate, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, long-chain crystallizable esters of glycerol and their mixtures, such as, for example, the compound sold under the name Compritol®888 CG ATO by Gattefosse (INCI: Glyceryl Dibehenate (and) Tribehenin (and) Glyceryl Behenate) or each of its components taken separately, tricaprin, trilaurin, trimyristin, tripalmitin, tristearin, glycerol distearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl dipalmitate/stearate and linoleoyl polyoxyl-6 glyceride.

The crystallizable fatty substance(s) can also be chosen from crystallizable fatty acids having a long alkyl chain and their mixtures, such as, for example, the INCI compound “1300 Stearic Acid” (stearic acid), such as in particular that sold under the name of Stearin TP 1200 Pellets (DUB 50 P) from Stearinerie Dubois, mixtures of stearic acid and palmitic acid, in particular from saturated C4-C28 fatty acids and unsaturated C4-C28 fatty acids. The other crystallizable fatty substances which can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general, such as a-olefin oligomers, for example the polymers Performa V® 825, 103 and 260 sold by New Phase Technologies, ethyl ene/propylene copolymers, such as Performalene® EP 700, or Fischer-Tropsch waxes or a mixture of these products.

Thus, according to a specific embodiment, a crystallizable fatty substance suitable for the invention can be chosen from paraffin wax, ozokerite, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, laurel wax, sugar cane wax, ceramide, esparto wax, olive tree wax, rice wax, sunflower seed wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, polyglyceryl-3 esters of Acacia decurrens flower, jojoba and sunflower waxes, absolute flower waxes, such as blackcurrant blossom essential wax, soybean wax, Myrica fruit wax or laurel wax, beeswaxes, modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), lanolin, spermaceti, long-chain crystallizable fatty alcohols and their mixtures, long-chain crystallizable esters and their mixtures, crystallizable fatty acids having a long alkyl chain and their mixtures, marine waxes, polyolefin waxes, ethyl ene/propylene copolymers, Fischer-Tropsch waxes and their mixtures.

Advantageously, the crystallizable fatty substance is chosen from crystallizable C12- C24 fatty alcohols, crystallizable C12-C24 fatty acids, crystallizable esters resulting from C12- C24 fatty acids and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, the crystallizable fatty substance is chosen from cetearyl (Cie/Cis 50/50) alcohol, mixtures of cetyl esters (Mixture of Myristyl Stearate and Myristyl Palmitate), stearic acid and their mixtures.

Preferably, the crystallizable fatty substance is chosen from crystallizable esters resulting from C12-C24 fatty alcohols and/or crystallizable esters resulting from C12-C24 fatty acids, and their mixtures, preferably chosen from cetyl palmitate and a mixture of esters obtained from glycerol and behenic acid.

Preferably, the crystallizable fatty substance is present in a content of between 0.01% and 15.00% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.08% and 12.00% by weight, preferentially between 0.1% and 8.0% by weight, advantageously between 0.1% and 5.0% by weight.

According to a specific embodiment, when the crystallizable fatty substance is a long-chain crystallizable fatty alcohol or a mixture of such fatty alcohols, it can be present in a content of between 0.1% and 10.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5% and 5.0% by weight, preferentially between 1% and 4% by weight, better still 3% by weight.

According to another specific embodiment, when the crystallizable fatty substance is a crystallizable fatty acid having a long alkyl chain or a mixture of such fatty acids, it can be present in a content of between 0.01% and 5.00% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 1.0% by weight, preferentially between 0.1% and 0.3% by weight, better still 0.2% by weight.

According to another specific embodiment, when the crystallizable fatty substance is a long- chain crystallizable ester or a mixture of such esters, it can be present in a content of between 0.1% and 5.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.2% and 3.0% by weight, preferentially between 0.4% and 1.0% by weight, better still 0.5% by weight.

ADDITIONAL COMPOUNDS

The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention, besides the water, can optionally comprise at least one water-soluble solvent.

In the present invention, the term “water-soluble solvent” denotes a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition of the invention can in addition be volatile.

Mention may in particular be made, among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3 and C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes, and also the polyols as defined in the present invention.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 30% to 98% by weight, better still from 35% to 97% by weight and preferably from 40% to 95% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said composition. According to an alternative embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises at least water.

According to another alternative embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention can comprise water and at least one polyol as defined in the present invention, in particular C2-C32 polyol.

According to another alternative embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention can comprise water and at least one lower monoalcohol having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

According to another alternative embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention can comprise water, at least one lower monoalcohol having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms and at least one polyol as defined in the present invention, in particular C2-C32 polyol.

Depending on the presentation form or, when the composition is in the form of an emulsion, depending on the sense of the emulsion, the aqueous phase can be composed of an unmodified clay suitable for the invention in gel form, alone or in combination with other gelling agents.

As set out above, an unmodified clay suitable for the invention forms an aqueous gel in the presence of water. This aqueous gel can then constitute all or part of the aqueous phase. As such, it acts as rheological agent, as stabilizer of the emulsion. Thus, the stability of the final composition is improved. This property also applies when the unmodified clay gel suitable for the invention is used in combination with other aqueous gelling agents.

According to a specific embodiment, an unmodified clay suitable for the invention in the aqueous gel form constitutes the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention, that is to say that the aqueous phase of the composition is exclusively constituted of this gel.

Oily phase

When the composition used according to the invention includes an oily phase, the latter preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It can additionally contain other fatty substances, such as crystallizable fatty substances as defined in the present invention or distinct from these.

Mention may be made, as oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, for example, of:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or also, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or shea butter oil;

- hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate or heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates of fatty alcohols;

- polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and di ethylene glycol diisononanoate;

- pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or nonvolatile liquid paraffins, and their derivatives, hydrocarbon oils having a branched chain comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and their mixtures, petrolatum, polydecenes or hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam® oil;

- partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based fluorinated oils, such as those described in the document JP 2295912;

- silicone oils, such as volatile or nonvolatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) having a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones), such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes, (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and

- their mixtures.

In the list of the abovementioned oils, the term “hydrocarbon oil” is understood to mean any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.

The other fatty substances which can be present in the oily phase are, for example, silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl(Ci-C4)alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone, and silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the KSG names by Shin-Etsu, under the Trefil, BY29 or names by Dow Corning or under the Gransil names by Grant Industries.

These fatty substances can be chosen in a way varied by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or of texture.

According to one alternative form, the amount of the oily phase can range, for example, from 1% to 70% by weight and, for example, from 5% to 50% by weight or, for example, from 5% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

According to one alternative form, the amount of oily phase can range, for example, from 5% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Pasty compound

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “pasty” is understood to denote a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid/liquid change in state and comprising, at the temperature of 23 °C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric or nonpolymeric fluorinated compounds, polymeric or nonpolymeric silicone compounds, vinyl polymers, in particular: olefin homopolymers, olefin copolymers, hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers, linear or branched homo- or copolymer oligomers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably having a -C30 alkyl group, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 diols, esters, polyvinyl laurate, and their mixtures.

By way of indication, a composition according to the invention can comprise from 0% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, of pasty compound(s), with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Other additives

The cosmetic composition can additionally comprise at least one additive chosen from the adjuvants normal in the cosmetics field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, water-soluble or fat-soluble active agents, for example antiaging active agents, filmforming polymers, preservatives, sequestering agent, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, odor absorbers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), surface-active agents, colorants (intended to color the composition according to the invention) and their mixtures.

According to a specific embodiment, the composition can comprise at least one hydrotropic molecule, such as, for example, nicotinamide (vitamin B3), caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, (hydroxyethyl)urea and any one of their mixtures.

According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the composition can comprise at least one active agent. In particular, the active agent can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.001% and 10% by weight, preferably of between 0.01% and 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one preservative.

According to one embodiment, the composition additionally comprises a fragrance. According to one alternative form, the amount of fragrances can range, for example, from 0.001% to 10% and preferably from 0.01% to 5%, by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional adjuvants and/or their amounts so that the advantageous properties of the composition are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition.

The compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “physiologically acceptable medium” is understood to denote a medium suitable for the administration of a composition by the topical route.

A physiologically acceptable medium is generally without odor, or unpleasant appearance, and is entirely compatible with the topical administration route. In the present case, where the composition is intended to be administered by the topical route, that is to say by application at the surface of the keratin material under consideration, such a medium is in particular regarded as physiologically acceptable when it does not cause tingling, tautness or redness unacceptable to the user.

In particular, the composition is suited to topical application, that is to say to application at the surface of the skin, the scalp and/or the mucus membrane under consideration.

Thus, the physiologically acceptable medium is preferentially a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium without unpleasant odor, color or appearance, and which does not cause tingling, tautness or redness unacceptable to the user.

The composition can then comprise all the constituents normally employed in the application envisaged.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and/or their amounts, so that the advantageous properties of the compounds according to the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition.

COMPOSITION The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the techniques well known to a person skilled in the art.

Nevertheless, the addition of AHA to the composition according to the invention is preferentially performed between the introduction of the unmodified clay into the water and the addition of the magnesium salt. Indeed, this process makes the formula particularly fluid at the end of manufacture TO and therefore easier to discharge. In addition, the gel is structured more slowly, which prevents the appearance of syneresis, and the formula is stable after 2 months at ambient temperature (25 °C).

A subject matter of the present invention is thus also a process for preparing a composition as defined above, in which the alpha-hydroxy acid is introduced after the water and the unmodified clay, and preferably before the addition of said at least one magnesium salt.

Finally, a subject matter of the invention is also a cosmetic process comprising at least one step consisting in applying to the skin and/or the hair, preferably the skin of the face and/or body, a composition as defined previously.

The composition according to the invention can be provided in any presentation form conventionally according to the applications envisaged.

For example, when the composition according to the invention is cosmetic or dermatological, it can be provided in any presentation form conventionally employed for topical applications and in particular in the form of a dispersion of aqueous lotion or gel type, of an emulsion of liquid to semisolid consistency, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O), or of a liquid to semisolid suspension of emulsified cream or gel type.

Preferably, the composition is provided in the form of an oil-in-water (direct emulsion (O/W)) or water-in-oil (inverse emulsion (W/O)) emulsion, preferably an oil-in- water emulsion, a gel or an emulsified gel.

According to a specific embodiment, a composition according to the invention is of gel type, preferably of aqueous gel type.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for caring for the skin of the body or of the face, in particular of the face, or for caring for the nails.

Thus, the compositions according to the invention can be in the form of products for caring for the skin or semimucus membranes, such as a protective or cosmetic care composition for the face, for the lips, for the hands, for the feet, for the anatomical folds or for the body (for example, day creams, night cream, day serum, night serum, antisun composition, protective or care body milk, aftersun milk, lotion, gel or foam for the care of the skin or of the scalp, serum, mask or aftershave composition).

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for the hygiene of the skin of the body, in particular of the armpits or of the feet.

The compositions according to the invention can furthermore be packaged in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump-action spray; packaged in a device equipped with an openwork wall, in particular a grating; packaged in a device equipped with a ball applicator (roll-on); or packaged in the form of sticks. In this regard, they contain the ingredients generally used in products of this type and which are well known to a person skilled in the art.

The compositions packaged as an aerosol in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants, such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane or trichlorofluoromethane. They are preferably present in amounts ranging from 15% to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

A composition according to the invention preferably exhibits a viscosity of between 0.1 Pa.s and 2000 Pa.s, better still of between 1 Pa.s and 1000 Pa.s, even better still of between 10 Pa.s and 500 Pa.s.

The viscosity of the composition is measured at ambient temperature (25°C) using a RHEOMAT RM 200 viscosimeter equipped with a No. 3 or 4 spindle (M3, M4), the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the product (time after which stabilization of the viscosity and the speed of rotation of the spindle is observed), at a shear rate of 200 s'¹. The results are given in UD (Units of Deviation), and then by means of a chart transcribed into Poises, then into Pa.s. In the context of the present invention, the cone/plate or plate/plate geometry has been used.

Preferably, a cream or a gel, in particular an aqueous gel, is concerned. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 5 and 12 and preferably between 10 and 12.

The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.

The expressions “at least one” and “one or more” are synonymous and may be used interchangeably.

In the description and the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the contents and percentages are percentages by weight. The percentages are thus expressed by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. The ratios are also weight ratios. The temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius, unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.

The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the non-limiting examples presented below.

Examples

Characterization of the formulas:

The following measurements and observations are performed for all the formulas manufactured at the following times:

At TO, i.e. at the very end of manufacture

At T4 hours (T0+4h)

At T24 hours (TO + 24h)

At T8 days (T0+8 days)

The characterizations are:

- pH measurement at 25 °C

- Viscosity measurement using a Rheomat RM 200 viscometer (No. 3, 4 and 5 spindles, at 30 seconds at 200 s'¹) at 25°C, the result then being converted into SI units Pa.s by means of a chart.

The following equipment is used: Thermostatically regulated bath; Rheomat 200 viscosimeter; and MS-r 3 measuring system (body, stand and cup).

- Visual observation of the stability of the formulas and the presence or absence of syneresis. Definition of syneresis: Contraction of the clay gel ejecting a liquid phase from the system. The syneresis is indicated as a percentage (%) by volume of liquid phase ejected on the volume of composition (manufactured at TO).

Ingredients used in the formulas of the examples:

[Table 1]

Process for manufacturing the formulas

The formulas of the examples are manufactured at ambient temperature (25 °C) using a rotorstator. Unless otherwise indicated, the ingredients are added according to the order of introduction named “Process A” below, as indicated in the following table. [Table 2]

Several compositions of unmodified hectorite gel type were prepared from the compounds and contents given in detail in the tables below. The contents are expressed as percentages by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

More specifically, deodorant products are concerned.

The compositions are prepared according to the protocol indicated below:

- the unmodified hectorite is introduced into the water with vigorous stirring at a temperature of 60°C,

- once the aqueous hectorite gel is formed, the other ingredients (propylene glycol, then citric acid) are introduced into the preceding mixture with stirring,

- the magnesium salts are added with stirring.

Results and interpretations of the characterizations

In the following tables, “Ex” represents an example of a composition according to the invention, while “Cp” represents a comparative composition or composition outside the invention.

Impact of the presence and content of AHA (citric acid) with different contents of clay (hectorite) [Table 3]

Appearance of the compositions over time [Table 4]

pH of the compositions over time [Table 5]

Viscosity of the compositions over time [Table 6]

Interpreting the results

For compositions with 2% and 5% hectorite, the addition of citric acid prevents the appearance of syneresis even at short times, in less than 4 hours.

Furthermore, the addition of citric acid makes it possible to obtain a composition with a sufficiently low viscosity, less than 12 Pa.s, to be able to be discharged from an industrial manufacturing tank.

By virtue of the presence of AHA (citric acid) in the formula, the viscosity at TO (corresponding to the end of manufacture of the formula) is less than 12 Pa.s irrespective of the hectorite content.

In particular, increasing the amount of AHA leads to a temporary decrease in viscosity just after the manufacture of the formula.

Impact of the order of introduction of the acid

This is demonstrated with citric acid.

The various manufacturing processes tested, in which only the order of introduction of the ingredients changes, are shown in the following table:

[Table 7]

Compositions and process [Table 8]

Results and interpretations of the characterizations:

Appearance of the compositions over time

[Table 9]

pH of the compositions over time [Table 10]

Viscosity

[Table 11]

Interpreting the results

For the formula of Ex. 8 manufactured according to process B, the introduction of the AHA after the clay and after the magnesium oxide allows a sufficient decrease in viscosity without any instability from T4 h. For the formula of Ex. 2 manufactured according to process A, the introduction of the AHA after the hectorite and before the magnesium oxide allows a sufficient decrease in viscosity at TO, ideal for discharging the formula.

In both cases, the formulas rapidly regain a viscosity of greater than 12 Pa.s as early as T 8 days, and then retain a compact gel-like appearance, the stability of each formula (Ex. 2, Ex.

8) being confirmed after 2 months at ambient temperature.

The addition of AHA to the composition according to the invention is preferentially performed according to process A, since this process A makes the formula more fluid at the end of manufacture TO than process B. It is therefore easier to discharge. In both cases (process A or process B), the gel is structured gradually and slowly, which prevents and even hinders the appearance of syneresis in said composition, even in the long term, after 2 months at ambient temperature.

Impact of the choice of AHA

In the formulas in the following table, the effect of a triacid, citric acid, is compared with that obtained for two other AHAs: a monoacid (lactic acid) and a diacid (tartaric acid).

[Table 12]

The choice of the mass contents of the various acids is made so as to have the same number of moles of acid function.

Process: [Table 13]

Results and interpretations of the characterizations: Appearance [Table 14]

pH

[Table 15]

Viscosity [Table 16]

Interpreting the results

The nature of the alpha-hydroxy acid affects the rheological behavior. The viscosities are higher and exceed the maximum desired viscosity limit (12 Pa.s) more quickly with the di- and mono-acids (tartaric acid and lactic acid), than for citric acid which is the most effective AHA in this composition.

A low level of syneresis at short times (less than 4 hours) appears with tartaric acid and lactic acid, although the syneresis disappears completely at 4 days for the formulas with the lowest content.

Of the three AHAs tested above, it is citric acid (the triacid) which gives the best results: it decreases the viscosity most effectively at TO, and efficiently limits the change in viscosity of the formula, which in the longer term ensures better stability of the composition, at T 8 days, then after 2 months at ambient temperature (25°C).

The compositions tested in accordance with the invention, Ex. 2, Ex. 9, Ex. 10, Ex. 11 and Ex. 12, are also stable: from T8 days onwards, they show no (or virtually no) variation < 2 Pa.s in viscosity, pH, appearance under the microscope, or changes in these parameters after 2 months at ambient temperature (25°C).

On application, the formulae of the invention are fresh, light, nontacky and non-runny. They spread easily under the armpits without soaping. Impact of an acid of natural origin (other than AHA): phytic acid

Formula containing 0.5% AM of phytic acid

[Table 17]

Results and interpretations of the characterizations of the formula Cp. 13:

[Table 18]

For phytic acid (acid of natural origin other than AHA), there is no viscosity limitation.

Furthermore, the composition thus obtained has a viscosity of greater than 12 Pa.s, and therefore cannot be discharged at the end of manufacture.

Sensory evaluation test and performance perceived by users:

Formulas tested

[Table 19]

Comparative formula Cp. 14 (3% hectorite, no citric acid) and the Ex. 2 formula (2% hectorite, 0.05% citric acid) according to the invention were evaluated and compared, in monadic sequence, by a trained panel of 15 women, between 18 and 60 years old and regular users of roll-on or stick deodorant (minimum 5 days/week).

Protocol

Collection of the women's reactions via a daily individual blog and telephone interviews (45 minutes), after 5 days of use of each formula:

Interview 1 : Usual routine + exploration of expectations in terms of deodorants + discovery of Cp. 14

Interview 2: Assessment of Cp. 14 + discovery of Ex. 2

Interview 3: Assessment of Ex. 2

Interview 4: Comparison of Cp. 14/Ex. 2 Results based on the average of the 15 opinions of the panel, for each parameter evaluated (between — and +++, i.e.: — , -, +, ++, +++, corresponding to a grade from 1 to 5) [Table 20]

Test conclusion

The Ex. 2 formula according to the invention is considered to be better on account of its excellent reliability in combating perspiration odors, its comfort throughout the day and its absence of white marks on clothing, unlike the formula Cp. 14.

The purchase intention on conclusion of the test was 9/15 for Ex. 2 vs 6/15 for Cp. 14.

Thus, the use of AHA, and in particular of citric acid, in the composition according to the invention, not only facilitates its manufacturing process, but also improves the stability of the formula and even increases the efficiency, notably the antiodor efficiency, of the magnesium salts.

Claims

1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising at least:

- an unmodified clay chosen from trioctahedral smectites,

- an alpha-hydroxy acid,

- water,

- and further comprising a magnesium salt; in which said magnesium salt is chosen from magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, magnesium chloride, and their mixtures.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which said unmodified clay comprises at least 30% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, of SiCh, with respect to the total weight of the unmodified clay, and at least 10% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, of MgO, with respect to the total weight of the unmodified clay.

3. The composition as claimed in claim 2, in which said unmodified clay has an SiCh/MgO ratio by weight ranging from 1 to 3, preferably from 1.5 to 2.5, more preferentially from 1.8 to 2.4.

4. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which said unmodified clay has the general molecular formula:

in which:

M⁴⁺ represents a cation, preferably Si⁴⁺,

M³⁺ represents a cation, preferably Al³⁺,

M²⁺ represents a cation, preferably Fe²⁺ or Mg²⁺,

M⁺ represents a cation, preferably Li⁺,

5. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which said unmodified clay is chosen from hectorite, saponite, stevensite and their mixtures, preferably hectorite.

6. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which said unmodified clay is natural, preferably natural hectorite.

7. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which said unmodified clay is present in a content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably of less than or equal to 8% by weight, more preferentially of less than or equal to 7% by weight, more preferentially still of less than or equal to 6% by weight, in particular in a content of between 0.5% and 5.0% by weight, preferably between 1% and 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which said magnesium salt is chosen from magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate and their mixtures; preferably said magnesium salt is magnesium oxide.

9. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which said magnesium salt(s) is (are) present in an amount of between 0.5% and 10.0% by weight, preferably between 0.9% and 10.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the unmodified clay/magnesium salt(s) ratio by weight is between 10/1 and 1/10, preferably between 10/1 and 1/2, more preferentially of between 5/2 and 1/4.

11. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which said alpha-hydroxy acid is chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2- hydroxy-nonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2- hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetra-cosanoic acid, 2- hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and fumaric acid; salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

12. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which said alphahydroxy acid is chosen from citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid and lactic acid; preferably from citric acid, tartaric acid and lactic acid; salts thereof and mixtures thereof; preferably, said alpha-hydroxy acid is citric acid.

13. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said alpha-hydroxy acid is present in concentrations ranging from 0.001% to 5%, more preferentially from 0. 01% to 3%, or even better from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the alphahydroxy acid(s)/unmodified clay(s) mass ratio is in the range of from 0.01 to 1, preferably from 0.02 to 0.8, preferably from 0.02 to 0.5, preferably from 0.02 to 0.2.

15. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, also comprising at least one anti-syneresis agent chosen from: polyols, natural polymers, organic or non- organic fillers, crystallizable fatty substances and mixtures thereof; said at least one anti-syneresis agent preferably being chosen from polyols, natural polymers, and mixtures thereof.

16. The composition as claimed in Claim 15, in which, when the antisyneresis agent is a polyol, it is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 2% to 55% by weight, more preferentially from 3% to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition; or when the anti syneresis agent is a natural polymer, it is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10.00% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition; or when the antisyneresis agent is an organic or nonorganic filler, it is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 20.000% by weight and preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition; or when the antisyneresis agent is a crystallizable fatty substance, it is present in an amount of between 0.01% and 15.00% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.08% and 12.00% by weight, preferentially between 0.1% and 8.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. The composition as claimed in either one of Claims 15 and 16, in which said antisyneresis agent comprises at least one polyol containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as oligomers of glycerol, for instance diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof; preferably, said polyol is chosen from propylene glycol, 1,3- propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof; and preferably, said at least one polyol comprises propylene glycol. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the water is present in an amount ranging from 30% by weight to 98% by weight, preferably from 35% by weight to 97% by weight and more preferentially from 40% by weight to 95% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, which is of gel type, preferably of aqueous gel type. A process for preparing a composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the alpha-hydroxy acid is introduced after the water and the unmodified clay, and preferably before said at least one magnesium salt. A cosmetic method comprising at least one stage which consists in applying, to the skin and/or head hair, preferably the skin of the face and/or of the body, a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 19.