WO2023099808A1 - Dispositif et système d'exercices des doigts pour l'entraînement, l'échauffement et/ou la rééducation de muscles, tendons et poulies des phalanges et procédé de détermination d'adhérence pour grimpeurs - Google Patents

Dispositif et système d'exercices des doigts pour l'entraînement, l'échauffement et/ou la rééducation de muscles, tendons et poulies des phalanges et procédé de détermination d'adhérence pour grimpeurs Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023099808A1
WO2023099808A1 PCT/ES2022/070776 ES2022070776W WO2023099808A1 WO 2023099808 A1 WO2023099808 A1 WO 2023099808A1 ES 2022070776 W ES2022070776 W ES 2022070776W WO 2023099808 A1 WO2023099808 A1 WO 2023099808A1
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Prior art keywords
support
distal
carpal
exerciser
sensor
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PCT/ES2022/070776
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English (en)
Spanish (es)
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Asier Estevan Muguerza
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Asier Estevan Muguerza
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Publication of WO2023099808A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023099808A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B23/00—Exercising apparatus specially adapted for particular parts of the body
    • A63B23/035—Exercising apparatus specially adapted for particular parts of the body for limbs, i.e. upper or lower limbs, e.g. simultaneously
    • A63B23/12—Exercising apparatus specially adapted for particular parts of the body for limbs, i.e. upper or lower limbs, e.g. simultaneously for upper limbs or related muscles, e.g. chest, upper back or shoulder muscles
    • A63B23/16—Exercising apparatus specially adapted for particular parts of the body for limbs, i.e. upper or lower limbs, e.g. simultaneously for upper limbs or related muscles, e.g. chest, upper back or shoulder muscles for hands or fingers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B21/00—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices
    • A63B21/00058—Mechanical means for varying the resistance
    • A63B21/00069—Setting or adjusting the resistance level; Compensating for a preload prior to use, e.g. changing length of resistance or adjusting a valve
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B21/00—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices
    • A63B21/02—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices using resilient force-resisters
    • A63B21/023—Wound springs
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B21/00—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices
    • A63B21/02—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices using resilient force-resisters
    • A63B21/04—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices using resilient force-resisters attached to static foundation, e.g. a user
    • A63B21/0407—Anchored at two end points, e.g. installed within an apparatus
    • A63B21/0428—Anchored at two end points, e.g. installed within an apparatus the ends moving relatively by linear reciprocation
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B69/00—Training appliances or apparatus for special sports
    • A63B69/0048—Training appliances or apparatus for special sports for mountaineering, e.g. climbing-walls, grip elements for climbing-walls
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B71/00—Games or sports accessories not covered in groups A63B1/00 - A63B69/00
    • A63B71/06—Indicating or scoring devices for games or players, or for other sports activities
    • A63B71/0619—Displays, user interfaces and indicating devices, specially adapted for sport equipment, e.g. display mounted on treadmills
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A63B71/0054—Features for injury prevention on an apparatus, e.g. shock absorbers
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    • A63B21/00—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices
    • A63B21/008—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices using hydraulic or pneumatic force-resisters
    • A63B21/0085—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices using hydraulic or pneumatic force-resisters using pneumatic force-resisters
    • A63B21/0087—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices using hydraulic or pneumatic force-resisters using pneumatic force-resisters of the piston-cylinder type
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B21/00—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices
    • A63B21/02—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices using resilient force-resisters
    • A63B21/055—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices using resilient force-resisters extension element type
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
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    • A63B2220/16—Angular positions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B2220/00—Measuring of physical parameters relating to sporting activity
    • A63B2220/20—Distances or displacements
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B2220/00—Measuring of physical parameters relating to sporting activity
    • A63B2220/50—Force related parameters
    • A63B2220/51—Force
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B2220/00—Measuring of physical parameters relating to sporting activity
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    • A63B2220/51—Force
    • A63B2220/52—Weight, e.g. weight distribution
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B2220/00—Measuring of physical parameters relating to sporting activity
    • A63B2220/70—Measuring or simulating ambient conditions, e.g. weather, terrain or surface conditions
    • A63B2220/72—Temperature
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
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    • A63B2220/00—Measuring of physical parameters relating to sporting activity
    • A63B2220/80—Special sensors, transducers or devices therefor
    • A63B2220/803—Motion sensors
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A63B2225/00—Miscellaneous features of sport apparatus, devices or equipment
    • A63B2225/20—Miscellaneous features of sport apparatus, devices or equipment with means for remote communication, e.g. internet or the like
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    • A63B24/00—Electric or electronic controls for exercising apparatus of preceding groups; Controlling or monitoring of exercises, sportive games, training or athletic performances
    • A63B24/0062—Monitoring athletic performances, e.g. for determining the work of a user on an exercise apparatus, the completed jogging or cycling distance

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a finger exerciser device and system for training, warming up and/or rehabilitation of the muscles, tendons and phalangeal pulleys of the fingers.
  • This exerciser device is especially applicable in physiotherapy for the recovery and rehabilitation of hand injuries, especially for athletes such as climbers, and also for training and strengthening the muscles, tendons and phalangeal pulleys of the fingers.
  • the proposed system can also be used to carry out a method for determining adhesion for climbing.
  • the arching grip consists of flexing the metacarpophalangeal (between the metacarpals and proximal phalanges), proximal interphalangeal (between the proximal and middle phalanges) and distal interphalangeal (between the middle and distal phalanges) joints in hypertension, This is the grip that submits the greatest stress to the flexor system, mainly to the pulleys that join the sheaths of the flexor tendons to the phalanges, where injuries are frequent in climbers.
  • the semi-arching grip consists of extension of the metacarpophalangeal joints, hypertensive flexion of the proximal interphalangeal joints, forming an approximate 90° angle, and hyperextension of the distal interphalangeal joints.
  • the extension grip consists of hyperextension of the metacarpophalangeal joints and flexion of the proximal and distal interphalangeal joints in hypertension.
  • fixed exerciser devices For training, warming up and/or rehabilitation of the muscles, tendons and phalanx pulleys of the fingers, fixed exerciser devices are known, such as multi-press boards, which are fixed to a wall or hung from a ceiling or from a a tree, and allow the user to hang from them.
  • these devices are very bulky and heavy and do not allow regulating the tension supported by the muscles, tendons and phalanx pulleys of the user's fingers, as it will depend on the user's weight.
  • Hand pliers are also known, in the form of pliers, equipped with a spring that offers an adjustable resistance to the closing of the pliers. These types of hand pliers are intended to be grasped between the thumb, and part of the palm, and the median phalanges of the hand, allowing the muscles and tendons associated with closing the hand to be warmed up and exercised, located mainly in the forearm.
  • the geometry of this type of exerciser device does not allow for an easy and safe grip between the area of the hand where the wrists are located and the ends of the fingers where the distal phalanges are located, thus preventing the fingers from being exercised by means of a semi- arching or arching of the fingers.
  • This device has a base provided with a support for the thumb and a support for the distal phalanx, provided with a concave housing, associated with the base in a sliding manner and connected to a spring.
  • This device allows the grip between the thumb and the distal phalanx of a finger inserted in the concave housing of the distal phalanx support, exercising the muscles and tendons of said finger.
  • the geometry of this exerciser device determines a position of the hand that does not allow the fingers to be exercised by means of a semi-arching or arching of the fingers.
  • the present invention solves the previous and other problems, providing an exerciser device that, thanks to its geometry and layout, allows the three main finger grips to be worked in an isometric and eccentric way: extension, semi-arching and arching, allowing a correct tendon sliding in all these grips.
  • the present invention concerns a finger exerciser device for training, warming up and/or rehabilitation of muscles, tendons and phalanx pulleys, in particular the third phalanges and pulleys through arching of the fingers.
  • Finger injuries are most common in climbing, particularly tendon and pulley injuries. These are injuries that are often due to poor warm-up, and it is that the cold finger (lack of adequate warm-up) suffers much more than once warmed up. These lesions take a long time to heal as they are an area that is not particularly irrigated and require long periods of time (from 2 to 6 months, for example) accompanied by exercises (usually taken up to the pain threshold) that help bring blood to the affected area for better healing (thus avoiding possible fibromyalgia, for example). The accessory that is presented has the appropriate qualities to carry out these exercises, even measuring the improvement by being able to regulate the intensity, thus observing the increase in strength in the affected area over time.
  • the proposed exerciser device comprises: a base, which defines mutually orthogonal longitudinal, transverse and sagittal directions and a front face perpendicular to the sagittal direction, and wherein the base includes at least one longitudinal guide that extend in the longitudinal direction; a wrist support, associated with the base, to support the base of the palm of the hand where the wrists are located; at least one support for the distal phalanges, associated with the base, to support the ends of the fingers where the distal phalanges are located; the distal phalanx support being guided by the at least one longitudinal guide, for example two parallel longitudinal guides, allowing a relative sliding between the carpal support and the distal phalanx support in the longitudinal direction along a displacement stroke between some positions of maximum and minimum extension; at least one elastic element configured to offer elastic resistance to relative sliding, in the longitudinal direction, between the carpal support and said at least one distal phalanx support.
  • the wrist support is understood to be a support element intended to support the part of the palm of the hand where the wrists are located, that is, the base of the palm of the hand in its area closest to the wrist.
  • the support of the distal phalanges is also a support element, typically a strip, intended to support the part of the ends of the fingers where the distal phalanges are located.
  • the base will be a casing whose front face will be that front face of the base visible from the sagittal direction, typically being a face mostly perpendicular to said sagittal direction. Therefore, the front face will extend mainly in the longitudinal and transverse directions.
  • the carpal and distal phalanx pads extend in the transverse direction and are substantially parallel to each other and face each other in the longitudinal direction.
  • the carpal support defines a concave carpal seat between a sagittal carpal surface, mostly facing the sagittal direction, and a longitudinal carpal surface, mostly facing the longitudinal direction and adjacent to the sagittal surface of the carpals, forcing an arched, semi-arched, or extended grip of one hand between the concave carpal seat (21) and the concave distal phalangeal seat (31).
  • said at least one distal phalanx support may be a replaceable distal phalanx support, selected from a set of different distal phalanx supports, or from a set of different distal phalanx supports with different sizes, grip configurations, textures superficial and/or made of different materials, and which is fixed to the device by means of a releasable fixing or by means of a releasable fixing formed by complementary projections and recesses, magnets and/or sails.
  • the replacement of the distal phalanx support allows the device to be adapted to different exercises, to simulate different climbing surfaces, to adapt the device to different user hand sizes, etc.
  • said at least one distal phalanges support can define at least one concave distal phalanges seat, between a longitudinal surface of distal phalanges mostly facing the longitudinal direction and a sagittal surface of distal phalanges mostly facing the sagittal direction. , or a sagittal surface of distal phalanges defined by the anterior aspect of the base, adjacent.
  • the concave seat of the distal phalanges may have an alveolar, bulbous shape or an irregular roughness.
  • a concave seat will be one whose cross section, in a plane perpendicular to the transversal direction, is concave, providing a firm and secure point of support to position the base of the palm of the hand or the ends of the fingers.
  • the sagittal surface of carpals and distal phalanges will be a surface accessible to the user in the sagittal direction, the projection of said surface in the sagittal direction being greater than the projection of said surface. in the remaining longitudinal and transverse directions.
  • the longitudinal surface of the carpus and distal phalanges will be a surface accessible to the user in the longitudinal direction, the projection of said surfaces in the longitudinal direction being greater than the projection of said surfaces in the longitudinal direction. remaining sagittal and transverse directions.
  • the longitudinal surfaces of carpals and distal phalanges will be in opposition, oriented in opposite directions and not facing each other. Said concave seats allow the insertion, inside their concave interior, of the base of the palm of the hand or of the tips of the fingers, in the sagittal direction, that is to say, in a direction perpendicular to the longitudinal direction in which the slider slides. support of distal phalanges.
  • the longitudinal surface of the distal phalanges and the sagittal surface of the distal phalanges may be surfaces of the support of the distal phalanges that define a concavity in the support of the distal phalanges.
  • the concave distal phalanx seat may be defined by at least one concavity defined on an anterior face of the distal phalanx support accessible in the sagittal direction.
  • the support may include one or several concavities for the insertion of one or several fingers.
  • the distal phalangeal longitudinal surface may be a distal phalangeal abutment surface
  • the distal phalangeal sagittal surface may be a surface on the anterior face of the base, adjacent the distal phalangeal abutment.
  • the concave distal phalangeal seat may be a concave region defined between the distal phalangeal support and a sagittal surface of the anterior face of the base, said concave region being accessible in the sagittal direction and adjacent to the distal phalangeal support.
  • the concave distal phalangeal seat is defined between the distal phalangeal abutment and a part of a front surface of the base, on which the distal phalangeal abutment slides.
  • the longitudinal carpal surface and the sagittal carpal surface could be carpal pad surfaces that together define a concavity in the carpal pad. That is, the concave carpal rest could be defined by a defined concavity on an anterior face of the carpal rest accessible in the sagittal direction.
  • the longitudinal carpal surface could be a distal phalangeal bearing surface
  • the sagittal carpal surface could be an anterior basal surface.
  • the seat of the distal phalanges could be defined between the support of carpals and an anterior surface of the anterior aspect of the base, accessible in the sagittal direction and adjacent to the carpal rest.
  • the concave carpal rest would be defined between the carpal rest and a part of an anterior surface of the base, on which the carpal rest is fixed, and which provides a support, on the base, for the base of the palm of the hand.
  • said at least one distal phalanx support may define a sagittal distal phalange surface mostly facing the sagittal direction and providing at least one distal phalange frictional seat.
  • the sagittal surface of distal phalanges may be, for example, flat, smooth, alveolar, bulbous, or irregularly rough.
  • This distal phalanx rest may be one of several interchangeable distal phalanx rests available to be placed on the exerciser so that it allows for a friction grip, while others provide a concave seat that provides a different grip for other types. of exercises.
  • the anterior surfaces of the anterior face of the base, adjacent to the carpal rest and the distal phalangeal rest and defining the concave carpal and distal phalangeal seats, will be substantially coplanar with one another.
  • the carpal support and/or the distal phalanx support is fixable to the rest of the device in different positions by means of a releasable fixation, modifying the spacing between the carpal support and the distal phalanx support.
  • the releasable fastening can be formed, for example, by complementary projections and recesses, magnets and/or sails.
  • the base may also include, on the front face, multiple anchoring points for removable fixation of the carpal support in different positions of the base by means of a releasable fixation, thus allowing the initial distance between the carpal support and the base to be adjusted. support of distal phalanges, adapting to different sizes of hands.
  • the releasable fixation may consist, for example, of protruding carpal support pins in the sagittal direction, and insertable in a tight fit into complementary openings provided in the anterior face of the base.
  • the exerciser device may also include an adjustment device configured to modify the position of maximum extension and/or minimum extension of the movement stroke between the carpal support and the distal phalanx support, adapting the displacement stroke to different user hand sizes.
  • This adjustment device may consist, for example, of an adjustment thread that, by turning it, produces a displacement of the fixing point of the distal phalanx support to the longitudinal guide.
  • the aforementioned at least one elastic element may consist, for example, of at least one spring, of at least one band of elastic material or of at least one pneumatic piston, located between a first stop associated with said at least one phalangeal support. distal phalanges and a second stop associated with the base producing elastic compression and/or elongation of the at least one elastic element with the relative displacement between the at least one distal phalanx support and the carpal support.
  • a sealed pneumatic piston acts as a spring by compressing and decompressing the gas contained within it.
  • the exerciser device may also include an elastic resistance adjustment device configured to modify the tension of the at least one elastic element, which determines the force necessary for the relative displacement between the carpal support and the distal phalanx support. Said modification of the tension of the at least one elastic element can be obtained, for example, by adjusting the distance between the first stop and the second stop in the longitudinal direction.
  • the second stop may be displaced, in the longitudinal direction, by means of the elastic resistance adjustment device.
  • the degree of compression of the spring, band of elastic material or pneumatic piston is modified, thus adjusting the elastic resistance offered by the displacement of the distal phalanges support, according to the needs and preferences of the user.
  • the elastic resistance adjustment device could be, for example, a screw that, by turning it, determines the position of the second stop in the longitudinal direction.
  • the said at least one longitudinal guide will consist of at least one rod fixed to the base, the said at least one spring constituting the at least one elastic element, threaded around said rod.
  • the longitudinal guide could be a groove that extends in the longitudinal direction made in the base itself
  • the elastic element it could be a flexible structure of plastic, metal or other material, for example in the shape of a crossbow.
  • the exerciser device can integrate a control device connected to at least one measurement device selected from among an effort sensor configured to determine the force exerted by the user when displacing the distal phalanx support, for example, a load cell, a displacement sensor configured to determine the displacement effected by the distal phalanx support, and/or an exerciser configuration sensor configured to detect at least some of the exerciser device settings selected by the user.
  • a control device connected to at least one measurement device selected from among an effort sensor configured to determine the force exerted by the user when displacing the distal phalanx support, for example, a load cell, a displacement sensor configured to determine the displacement effected by the distal phalanx support, and/or an exerciser configuration sensor configured to detect at least some of the exerciser device settings selected by the user.
  • the configuration sensor of the exerciser device is selected from among a sensor for adjusting the tension of the elastic element, a sensor for detecting the positions of minimum and/or maximum extension of the travel stroke, a detector of the fixation position of the carpal supports and/or distal phalanges supports, and an identification sensor to identify, among the various selected supports, the distal phalanges support effectively attached to the exerciser device at the time of carrying out an exercise.
  • each of the different distal phalanx supports available for fixation on the device may include an identifying element that can be detected by means of an identifying sensor integrated into the exerciser device, for example, an RFID antenna, a position and/or intensity magnetic element. and/or distinctive orientation, pins or openings located at positions measurable by an optical sensor, etc.
  • the exerciser device may further include other additional measuring devices selected from a humidity sensor, a temperature sensor, an atmospheric pressure sensor, a GPS positioning sensor, a orientation sensor, a timer configured to determine the time and/or date at which an exercise is carried out and/or its duration.
  • All this information may be relevant when assessing the evolution of the exercise carried out by the user, since atmospheric values, the time of day or the time of year may affect the performance of the user, since in climbing the conditions of the rock and skin of the user are essential in such performance and are affected by such atmospheric conditions.
  • the location also allows to compare the data collected with data obtained in previous sessions in the same location, or its storage for future sessions in the same location.
  • control device integrates a memory configured to store the information received by said control device, typically the information provided by the measurement devices.
  • the control device may also integrate an interface configured to transmit the information received by the control device and/or the information stored in the memory, for example through a screen or through light or acoustic indicators, and/or to enter information to the control device, for example via a keyboard.
  • the information introduced to the control device may, for example, be selected between user identification information, or geographic location information.
  • control device may be connected to a communication antenna for the transmission of the information obtained by the measurement devices to a portable computer device, typically a smart mobile phone, tablet or laptop.
  • the communication antenna could be, for example, an antenna that transmits under the WIFI or BLUETOOTH protocol.
  • the antenna may also be used to receive information external to the exerciser device, for example GPS location information, weather information, user identification information, etc.
  • the at least one distal phalanx support will preferably be elongated in the transverse direction, offering support for the index to little fingers.
  • said at least one distal phalanx support may be a plurality of independent distal phalanx supports, one next to the other, each guided in the longitudinal direction and defining an independent concave distal phalanx seat.
  • each independent distal phalanx support could have an independent elastic element, the elastic resistance of each independent elastic element being independently adjustable.
  • the present invention concerns a finger exerciser system for training, warming up and/or rehabilitation of muscles, tendons and phalanx pulleys.
  • the exerciser system will comprise an exerciser device, as described above, provided with a control device connected to at least one measurement device, and a portable computer device.
  • the portable computing device typically a smart mobile phone, tablet or laptop, comprises at least one communication antenna and/or a connection port, a memory, an interface, such as a screen and a keyboard, and a data storage device. computer running a software application.
  • control device of the exerciser device is connected to a communication antenna, or a connection port, and is configured to transmit information from said at least one measurement device to the portable computer device.
  • the software application executed by the portable computer device will be configured to execute an algorithm for the analysis of the information supplied by the control device of the exerciser device.
  • Said analysis may consist merely in the creation of evolution graphs, in comparison with historical data or from other users, the projections of future evolution, or they may be analyzed to suggest new exercise patterns in response to the results of the exercises carried out, among many other possible analyses.
  • the portable computing device include at least one additional measurement device selected from among a humidity, temperature and/or atmospheric pressure sensor, a GPS positioning sensor, an orientation sensor, a time meter configured to determine the time and/or date at which an exercise is carried out and/or its duration.
  • the portable computing device will be configured to transmit the information provided by said at least one additional measurement device to the exerciser device, and/or to analyze said information together with the information transmitted from the exerciser device by the algorithm.
  • the portable computer device may include a connection to a remote server and may be configured for the transmission of the information obtained by the sensor devices and/or additional sensor devices, or for the transmission of the result of the analysis carried out by the algorithm to said remote server.
  • the invention proposes a method for determining adherence for climbing using a system as described above.
  • adhesion is the coefficient of adhesion by friction between the hand of the user and a surface to which said hand is grasped.
  • the proposed method comprises transporting the exerciser device to a climbing location, setting the exerciser device according to predefined setting parameters, and performing a grip test by placing the hand on the exerciser device resting on the carpal area of the palm of the hand. hand in the wrist support and the area of the distal phalanges of the hand in the support of the distal phalanges, in an extended grip position, and performing a relative glide between the wrist support and the distal phalanx support towards the position arched grip throughout the travel stroke until escape from the distal phalanx support of the user's hand occurs.
  • the method proposes to calculate, by the algorithm executed by the software application, an estimate of climbing performance from the analysis of the grip test result, in relation to stored reference data that correlates the results of grip tests. grip and climbing performance data.
  • Climbing performance data is understood to be data indicative of the climber's grip on the rock during climbing. These climbing performance data may be, for example, the time taken to make the ascent, the frequency or number of slips of the climber, or other parameters such as a personal assessment of the climber.
  • the climbing performance estimate will allow the climber to get an idea, thanks to the grip test result, whether the climbing conditions are suitable before starting.
  • the reference data contains results of grip tests performed with the same predefined parameters as the grip test to be analysed.
  • the predefined parameters include the type of support of the distal phalanges and their fixation position to the exerciser device, as well as the tension of the elastic element.
  • the predefined fit parameters include the placement of a distal phalanx abutment that defines a distal phalanx friction seat on a sagittal surface of the distal phalanges mostly facing the sagittal direction, or the use of a surface mostly facing the sagittal direction. sagittal of the distal phalanges support as seat of distal phalanges by friction.
  • the distal phalanges will not rest on a concave seat, which offers greater grip, but on a substantially flat surface perpendicular to the sagittal direction, so that the grip it provides will be reduced and obtained mainly by friction. .
  • the point in the displacement stroke at which the exhaust occurs is determined by the effort sensor, by the displacement sensor, or by an analysis made by the algorithm of the information supplied by the effort sensor and/or by the displacement sensor.
  • the stored reference data correlate the results of grip tests and climbing performance data also with stored information regarding ambient atmospheric values existing when and where the grip tests and climbs whose data is stored as Reference Data.
  • the method also proposes to obtain ambient atmospheric values at the climbing location, calculate the climbing performance estimate considering said measured ambient atmospheric values and those stored as reference data.
  • the stored reference data can correlate grip test results and climbing performance data also with stored geographic location information of where the grip tests were performed and the climbs whose data is stored as Reference Data.
  • the method may then comprise obtaining values from the geographic location where the grip test is performed, and calculating the climbing performance estimate by comparing the grip test result with stored reference data obtained at the same geographic location, or at a different location. equivalent geographical area with similar climbing conditions, for example with similar geology and/or similar climbing difficulty.
  • the software application may be configured to perform the operations necessary to perform said method.
  • the user would register in the application, generating a personal profile, where they would enter relative data, for example, their level of climbing experience, previous or present injuries, etc. Based on the data entered, the user could request that the application generate preferred exerciser device settings and exercise routines, to choose between warm-up, reinforcement or rehabilitation exercises.
  • the application would also store a history of use of the exerciser device and modify the settings or routines over time based on prior use of the exerciser device by that particular user.
  • the mobile application could show animations, drawings or videos demonstrating the exercises proposed to be carried out.
  • Fig. 1 shows a perspective view of one embodiment of the exerciser device, showing in dashed line the position of a user's hand using the device;
  • Fig. 2 shows the same perspective view as Fig. 1 but showing the carpal and distal phalanx supports separated from the rest of the device;
  • Fig. 3 shows a cross section of the exerciser device shown in Fig. 1 along a plane coinciding with one of the first longitudinal guides;
  • Fig. 4 shows another cross section of the exerciser device shown in Fig.
  • Fig. 5 shows the same cross section shown in Fig. 4, but according to another embodiment
  • Fig. 6 shows a schematic perspective view of the proposed system, where the exerciser device and also the portable computer device are shown.
  • the present invention consists of an exerciser device that includes a base (10) that defines longitudinal (DL), transverse (DT) and sagittal (DS) directions orthogonal to each other and an anterior face (A) facing the sagittal direction (DS ), and wherein the base (10) includes at least one longitudinal guide (11) that extends in the longitudinal direction (DL).
  • Said base (10) has, in this preferred embodiment, a box shape with overall dimensions somewhat larger than those of a mobile (15cm x 10cm x 1.4cm).
  • the base has associated, protruding from its anterior face (A), a carpal support (20) and a distal phalanx support (30) in the form of a climbing strip, consisting of a small strip, for example made of plastic, wood or another material, between 6mm and 26mm thick in the sagittal direction (DS), to reproduce the climbing gestures known as “extend”, “semi-arch” and “arch” of the fingers.
  • a carpal support (20) and a distal phalanx support (30) in the form of a climbing strip, consisting of a small strip, for example made of plastic, wood or another material, between 6mm and 26mm thick in the sagittal direction (DS), to reproduce the climbing gestures known as “extend”, “semi-arch” and “arch” of the fingers.
  • the base (10), inside, contains two parallel rods that extend in the longitudinal direction (DL), as first longitudinal guides (11).
  • a support (33), contained within the base (10), is threaded onto both rods, allowing them to slide in the longitudinal direction (DL) within the base (10).
  • Each verilla has a spring threaded around it, which acts as an elastic element (40), compressed between the support (33), which acts as the first stop for the spring, and a second stop (42).
  • the position of the second stop (42) in the longitudinal direction (DL) is adjustable by means of an elastic resistance adjustment device (43), which in this embodiment is a screw that extends in the longitudinal direction and that, by turning it, produces a displacement of the second stop (42) in the longitudinal direction, increasing or reducing the elastic compression of the spring, and therefore, regulating the force required to displace the support (33).
  • the anterior face (A) of the base (10) presents two elongated slots in the longitudinal direction (DL) through which a releasable fastener (32) connects the distal phalangeal support (30), located above the anterior face. (A) of the base (10), with the support (33) contained inside, allowing the displacement of the distal phalanx support (33) in the longitudinal direction, on the front face (A) of the base (10) , together with the displacement of the support (33) contained within the base (10).
  • a concave distal phalanx seat (31) is defined, where the user can insert the distal ends of the fingers in a direction parallel to the sagittal direction (DS).
  • Said distal phalanx seats (31) provide a firm grip point.
  • both the carpal seat (21) and the distal phalanx seat (31) may be defined not between the anterior face (A) of the base (10) and the corresponding support, but by a depression or cavity provided in the proper support of the carpus (20) and/or in the support of the distal phalanges (30), on a face facing the sagittal direction (DS).
  • Said disposition of the carpal seats (21) and distal phalanges (31) determines the position of the hand in an arched, semi-arched or extension grip, allowing it to be exercised both eccentrically and concentrically and isometrically.
  • the releasable fixing (32) allows the distal phalanges support (30) to be replaced by a different distal phalanges support (30), with a different texture, material, roughness, to provide different sizes, textures or reliefs to the user.
  • distal phalanx rests can be obtained, for example, by additive manufacturing techniques such as 3D printing, or by subtractive manufacturing techniques such as milling with a computer-controlled machine tool, both techniques allowing the precise manufacturing of different distal phalanx rests (30 ).
  • the flat surface of the front face (A) of the base (10) can include a measuring rule to be able to observe the amount of displacement made, and thus know (by means of a table that is provided in the instruction manual or by means of a second rule) the force that is being applied at each moment also depending on how the elastic resistance adjustment device (43) has been adjusted.
  • This force reading could also be done digitally by adding some small electronic device that would measure the displacement and, knowing the initial tension of the elastic element (40) when the user does not exert pressure on it, calculate the effort made by the user in each displacement of the support of distal phalanges (30).
  • the device can integrate a control device 50, for example a programmable logic controller, with a memory 52, connected to a measurement device 51.
  • the measurement device is a sensor. of effort that measures the force applied on the elastic element by the user.
  • the measuring device 51 consists of a load cell, for example made of dielectric material.
  • this exerciser device can also include a communication antenna 53 for the transmission of the data obtained to a remote server or a portable computing device 60, or for the reception of data, for example data from other users or meteorological data, provided by the remote server or by the remote computing device 60.
  • the described exerciser device is connected to a remote computing device 60 forming an exerciser system.
  • the remote computing device 60 integrates a computing device 61, connected to a memory 62 and to a communications antenna 63.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Orthopedic Medicine & Surgery (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Multimedia (AREA)
  • Human Computer Interaction (AREA)
  • Orthopedics, Nursing, And Contraception (AREA)
  • Rehabilitation Tools (AREA)

Abstract

Dispositif et système d'exercices des doigts qui comprend une base (10), qui comprend au moins un guide longitudinal (11), un appui de carpes (20), au moins un appui des phalanges distales (30) guidé par au moins un guide longitudinal (11); au moins un élément élastique (40) configuré pour offrir une résistance élastique au glissement d'au moins un appui de phalanges distales (30); l'appui des carpes (20) définissant une assise des carpes concave (21) entre une surface sagittale des carpes, faisant majoritairement face à une direction sagittale (DS), et une surface longitudinale de carpes, faisant majoritairement face à une direction longtudinale (DL) perpendiculaire à la direction sagittale, adjacentes, forçant une prise arquée, semi-arquée ou en extensiond'une main entre l'assise des carpes concave (21) et l'assise des phalanges distales concave (31).
PCT/ES2022/070776 2021-12-01 2022-12-01 Dispositif et système d'exercices des doigts pour l'entraînement, l'échauffement et/ou la rééducation de muscles, tendons et poulies des phalanges et procédé de détermination d'adhérence pour grimpeurs WO2023099808A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ES202132384U ES1284919Y (es) 2021-12-01 2021-12-01 Dispositivo ejercitador de dedos para entrenamiento, calentamiento y/o rehabilitacion de musculos, tendones y poleas de falanges
ESU202132384 2021-12-01

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US689652A (en) 1901-06-14 1901-12-24 Edmund Perry Exercising device.
US20060123651A1 (en) * 2001-10-24 2006-06-15 Tillim Stephen L Parallel handle system and method for designing a parallel handle system
CN103638647A (zh) 2013-12-11 2014-03-19 张文川 一种握力器
US20160220863A1 (en) * 2015-02-03 2016-08-04 Kiio Inc. Interchangeable grip and pinch strength assessor and exerciser
WO2017171534A1 (fr) 2016-03-26 2017-10-05 Артём Сергеевич ТКАЧЁВ Dispositif d'entraînement portatif pour rétablir la motricité des doigts de la main
WO2018000412A1 (fr) 2016-07-01 2018-01-04 尚艳燕 Jouet

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US689652A (en) 1901-06-14 1901-12-24 Edmund Perry Exercising device.
US20060123651A1 (en) * 2001-10-24 2006-06-15 Tillim Stephen L Parallel handle system and method for designing a parallel handle system
CN103638647A (zh) 2013-12-11 2014-03-19 张文川 一种握力器
US20160220863A1 (en) * 2015-02-03 2016-08-04 Kiio Inc. Interchangeable grip and pinch strength assessor and exerciser
WO2017171534A1 (fr) 2016-03-26 2017-10-05 Артём Сергеевич ТКАЧЁВ Dispositif d'entraînement portatif pour rétablir la motricité des doigts de la main
WO2018000412A1 (fr) 2016-07-01 2018-01-04 尚艳燕 Jouet

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ES1284919Y (es) 2022-04-04

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