WO2023095719A1 - Solid composition for treating keratin fibers - Google Patents

Solid composition for treating keratin fibers Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023095719A1
WO2023095719A1 PCT/JP2022/042778 JP2022042778W WO2023095719A1 WO 2023095719 A1 WO2023095719 A1 WO 2023095719A1 JP 2022042778 W JP2022042778 W JP 2022042778W WO 2023095719 A1 WO2023095719 A1 WO 2023095719A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
wax
composition according
composition
keratin fibers
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2022/042778
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Mohammad Mydul Alam
Isaac Eng Ting Lee
Adrien Kaeser
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from JP2021192089A external-priority patent/JP2023078806A/en
Priority claimed from FR2201026A external-priority patent/FR3132432A1/en
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2023095719A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023095719A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/064Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers such as hair as well as a process relating to the composition.
  • the texture transformation of a cosmetic composition during application thereof onto hair is preferable because it could provide more pleasant feeling to use.
  • An example of such a cosmetic composition which could realize the texture transformation during application thereof may be based on a solid fatty substance such as solid oil which may melt during application.
  • a solid fatty substance such as solid oil which may melt during application.
  • reducing greasiness, which the solid fatty substance originally has, during application to acceptable level is often difficult.
  • Another example to realize texture transformation may be based on, so-called, a solid emulsion comprising aqueous dispersed phases in a solid fatty substance as a continuous fatty phase.
  • a solid emulsion comprising aqueous dispersed phases in a solid fatty substance as a continuous fatty phase.
  • WO 2021/120084 discloses a solid composition in the form of a W/O emulsion for making up and/or caring for skin.
  • the solid composition disclosed in WO 2021/120084 is applied onto skin.
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a solid composition which can reduce the original greasiness of the solid composition to, at least, cosmetically acceptable level when being applied onto keratin fibers, with providing the keratin fibers with advantageous cosmetic effects such as sufficient finger through, detangling/combing, and softness of keratin fibers.
  • a solid composition preferably a solid cosmetic composition, for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:
  • the (a-i) first wax be jojoba esters.
  • the amount of the (a-i) first wax in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (a-ii) second wax be polyethylene wax.
  • the amount of the (a-ii) second wax in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (a-iii) silicone oil may be selected from linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes.
  • the (a-iii) silicone oil may be a linear polydimethylsiloxane with a viscosity of 1,000 cst or more, preferably 5,000 cst or more, and more preferably 10,000 cst or more, at 25°C.
  • the amount of the (a-iii) silicone oil in the composition according to the present invention may be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 25% to 55% by weight, more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b-i) polyol may be selected from glycerins, glycols and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the (b-i) polyol in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b-ii) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b) aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention may be from 25% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 65% by weight, more preferably from 35% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise (a-iv) at least one non-silicone oil, preferably selected from ester oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from mixtures of ester oils and hydrocarbon oils.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:
  • the present invention relates to a solid composition, preferably a solid cosmetic composition, for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:
  • (a-iii) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 10 cst at 25°C;
  • the “keratin fibers” here mean fibers which include at least one keratin substance. It is preferable that at least a part of the surface of the keratin fibers be formed by keratin substances. Examples of keratin fibers include hair, eyebrows, eyelashes, and the like. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be used for treating hair.
  • composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a W/O emulsion.
  • the original greasiness of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced to, at least, cosmetically acceptable level.
  • texture transformation is possible for the composition according to the present invention when being applied onto keratin fibers.
  • the original greasiness of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced when being applied onto keratin fibers such that no or little greasiness is perceived.
  • the composition according to the present invention has an outer fatty phase, it can be easily applied onto keratin fibers because the original greasiness derived from the outer fatty phase can be reduced.
  • the composition according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with advantageous cosmetic effects such as conditioning effects.
  • the cosmetic effects provided by the composition according to the present invention can be reflected by, for example, smooth finger through, and/or ease of detangling or combing and/or softness of keratin fibers.
  • the composition according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers with sufficient finger through, detangling/combing, and/or softness.
  • composition according to the present invention is stable.
  • the composition according to the present invention does not cause phase separation for a long period of time even under elevated temperature. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention appears homogeneous and can maintain its homogeneous aspect.
  • One aspect of the present invention relates to a solid composition, preferably a solid cosmetic composition, for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:
  • (a-iii) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 10 cst at 25°C;
  • solid here means the state at room temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • a solid composition has high consistency and can maintain its form during storage. Contrary to a “fluid” composition, a solid composition does not flow under its own weight. For example, a solid composition does not flow under its own weight at room temperature under atmospheric pressure after 1 hour.
  • the “solid” may be defined that the measurement of the maximum force measured by texturometry during the penetration of a probe into a formulation sample should be at least equal to 0.25 newtons, in particular at least equal to 0.30 newtons and especially at least equal to 0.35 newtons, evaluated under specific measuring conditions as follows.
  • the formulations are cast while hot into jars 4 cm in diameter and 3 cm deep. Cooling is performed at room temperature. The hardness of the formulations prepared is measured after waiting for 24 hours.
  • the jars containing the samples are characterized in texturometry using a texturometer such as the machine TA-XT2 sold by the company Rheo, according to the following protocol: a probe of stainless-steel ball type 5 mm in diameter is brought into contact with the sample at a speed of 1 mm/sec.
  • the measuring system detects the interface with the sample with a detection threshold equal to 0.005 newtons.
  • the probe penetrates 0.3 mm into the sample, at a speed of 0.1 mm/sec.
  • the measuring machine records the change in force measured in compression over time, during the penetration phase.
  • the hardness of the sample corresponds to the mean of the maximum values of the force detected during penetration, over at least three measurements.
  • the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention comprises
  • (a-iii) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 10 cst at 25°C.
  • the (a-i) first wax and the (a-ii) second wax are different from each other.
  • wax here means a lipophilic compound (in particular, a wax ester: an ester of a higher fatty acid (Cio or more, preferably C12 or more) and a higher alcohol (Cs or more)), which is solid at room temperature (25°C), except for jojoba oil, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably 40°C, and more preferably 50°C, which may be up to 100°C.
  • a wax ester an ester of a higher fatty acid (Cio or more, preferably C12 or more) and a higher alcohol (Cs or more)
  • the melting point is measured, for example in accordance with ASTM DI 27.
  • the (a-i) first wax and the (a-ii) second wax used in the composition according to the present invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 60°C, preferably greater than or equal to 65°C, and more preferably greater than or equal to 75°C.
  • the (a-i) first wax and the (a-ii) second wax used in the composition according to the present invention may have a melting point of up to 90°C, preferably up to 85°C.
  • the (a-i) first wax and/or the (a-ii) second wax may have a hardness at 20°C of greater than 5 MPa, and especially ranging from 5 to 15 MPa.
  • the hardness of wax can be determined by measuring the compressive force, measured at 20°C using a texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2 by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter, travelling at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/second, and penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
  • the measuring protocol of the hardness is as follows:
  • the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10°C.
  • the molten wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep.
  • the wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25°C) for 24 hours such that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, and the wax is then stored for at least 1 hour at 20°C before measuring the hardness or the tack.
  • the texturometer spindle is displaced at a speed of 0.1 mm/s, and then penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
  • the spindle is held still for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then withdrawn at a speed of 0.5 mm/s.
  • the hardness value is the maximum compression force measured divided by the area of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.
  • the amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 25% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 60% by weight or less, preferably 55% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may range from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 25% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (a-i) at least one first wax.
  • a single type of first wax may be used, or two or more different types of first waxes may be used in combination.
  • the (a-i) first wax is selected from waxes of natural origin.
  • the (a-i) first wax is a natural wax.
  • Examples of the natural wax include a petroleum wax, a plant wax, and an animal wax.
  • Examples of the petroleum wax include a paraffin wax, a microcrystalline wax, and a petrolatum.
  • plant wax examples include jojoba esters, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter, cork fibre wax and sugarcane wax.
  • animal wax examples include lanolin wax, lanolin derivatives and beeswax.
  • the (a-i) first wax be jojoba esters.
  • Jojoba esters may be represented by formula (I):
  • the jojoba esters (wax) can be obtained by hydrogenation of jojoba oil of the following formula (II):
  • Jojoba oil is composed of straight chain mono-unsaturated fatty alcohols and monounsaturated fatty acids. The single double bond is located in the middle (n-9 position), counting from the terminal methyl group (-CH3) of respective fatty acid or alcohol chain.
  • jojoba oil is rather liquid wax, and is composed of esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids of even number of carbon atoms, primarily 20 and 22 carbons. The resulting esters have chain lengths of 38, 40, 42 and 44 with a small amount of esters of 36- and 4-carbon atoms being present.
  • the typical composition of jojoba oil is set out below.
  • Jojoba oil can be derived from the seed of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis).
  • jojoba esters may be obtained by the ester exchange of jojoba oil and hydrogenated jojoba oil.
  • Jojoba esters are commercially available, for example, from Vantage Specialty Ingredients, Inc., as Jojoba Ester 70.
  • the amount of the (a-i) first wax in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 % by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a-i) first wax in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, with the proviso that the amount of the (a-i) first wax is not zero.
  • the amount of the (a-i) first wax in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (a-ii) at least one second wax.
  • a single type of second wax may be used, or two or more different types of second waxes may be used in combination.
  • the (a-ii) second wax is selected from waxes of synthetic origin.
  • the (a-ii) second wax is a synthetic wax.
  • Examples of the synthetic wax include a synthetic hydrocarbon wax and a modified wax.
  • Examples of the synthetic hydrocarbon wax include polyethylene wax, polypropylene wax, and Fischer-Tropsch wax.
  • modified wax examples include a paraffin wax derivative, a montan wax derivative, and a microcrystalline wax derivative.
  • the (a-ii) second wax be selected from a synthetic hydrocarbon wax such as a polyethylene wax, a polypropylene wax, and a Fischer-Tropsch wax.
  • polyethylene wax examples include an ethylene homopolymer and an ethylene-alpha - olefin copolymer.
  • the wax may be obtained by thermal decomposition of the copolymer.
  • alpha-olefin examples include an alpha-olefin having 3 to 12 carbon atoms such as propylene, 1 -butene, 1 -pentene, 1 -hexene, 4-methyl-l -pentene, and 1 -octene.
  • polypropylene wax examples include a propylene homopolymer, an ethylenepropylene copolymer (which is a random or block copolymer), and propylene-alpha-olefin (except for ethylene or propylene) copolymer.
  • the wax may be obtained by thermal decomposition of the copolymer.
  • alpha-olefin examples include 1 -butene, 1- pentene, 1-hexene, 1-heptene, 1 -octene, 4-methyl-l -pentene, 1-decene, 1-dodecene, 1- tetradecene, 1 -hexadecene, and 1 -octadecene.
  • the polyethylene wax and the polypropylene wax can be obtained by a known method using a polymerization catalyst such as a Ziegler catalyst, a Ziegler-Natta catalyst, and a metallocene catalyst.
  • a polymerization catalyst such as a Ziegler catalyst, a Ziegler-Natta catalyst, and a metallocene catalyst.
  • the polyethylene wax and the polypropylene wax obtained by using a metallocene catalyst as a polymerization catalyst are preferable, having a narrow molecular weight distribution and stable quality, in comparison with the polyethylene wax and the polypropylene wax obtained by using a Ziegler catalyst or a Ziegler-Natta catalyst as a polymerization catalyst.
  • the Fischer-Tropsch wax is a synthetic hydrocarbon wax mainly comprising linear hydrocarbons, which is obtained by reacting water gas containing carbon monoxide and hydrogen as main components under normal pressure at 170 to 250°C using a catalyst such as cobalt, nickel, or iron.
  • the Fischer-Tropsch wax is characterized in comprising hydrocarbons containing odd and even numbers of carbon atoms, namely comprising both hydrocarbons containing odd numbers of carbon atoms and hydrocarbons containing even numbers of carbon atoms.
  • the (a-ii) second wax is polyethylene wax.
  • the amount of the (a-ii) second wax in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a-ii) second wax in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, with the proviso that the amount of the (a-ii) second wax is not zero.
  • the amount of the (a-ii) second wax in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (a-iii) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 10 cst at 25°C.
  • a silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 10 cst at 25°C.
  • a single type of such a silicone oil may be used, or two or more different types of such silicone oils may be used in combination.
  • the viscosity measurement is generally carried out at 25°C using a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer equipped with a No. 2 spindle, the measurement being carried out after rotating the spindle within the composition for 10 minutes (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the rotational speed of the spindle is observed), at 200 revolutions/min (rpm).
  • the (a-iii) silicone oil may have a viscosity of 100 cst or more, preferably 500 cst or more, more preferably 1,000 cst or more, more preferably 5,000 cst or more, more preferably 10,000 cst or more, more preferably 50,000 cst or more, and even more preferably 100,000 cst or more, at 25°C.
  • silicone oil means a silicone compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • silicone oils those generally used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination thereof.
  • Silicones or organopolysiloxanes are defined, for instance, by Walter NOLL in “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) may be selected from volatile silicones, non-volatile silicones and mixtures thereof.
  • the (a-iii) silicone oil may comprise either at least one volatile silicone oil or at least one non-volatile silicone oil, or both of at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one nonvolatile silicone oil.
  • the volatile or non-volatile silicone may be selected from linear, branched, or cyclic silicones, optionally modified with at least one organo-functional moiety or group.
  • the (a-iii) silicone oil may be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyltrimethicone, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organo-modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one organo-functional moiety or group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) moieties or groups, amine or amide moieties or groups, alkoxy or alkoxyalkyl moieties or groups, hydroxyl or hydroxylated moieties or groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl moieties or groups, carboxylic acid or carboxylate moieties or groups, hydroxyacylamino moieties or groups, acrylic moieties or groups, polyamine or polyamide moieties or groups, and oxazoline moieties.
  • polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS
  • the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) is/are volatile
  • the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from those having a boiling point ranging from 60°C to 260°C, for example:
  • cyclic silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, for instance, from 4 to 6 silicon atoms.
  • siloxanes include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed, for instance, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, KF-995 by SHIN ETSU, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane(INCI: CYCLOHEXASILOXANE) marketed, for instance, under the trade name XIAMETER® PMX-246 and the trade name DC246 Fluid by Dow Corning, as well as mixtures thereof.
  • Cyclomethicones may also be used, for example, those marketed under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345, and DC 246 by DOW CORNING. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type may also be used, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula r ' wherein:
  • linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 9 silicon atoms.
  • a nonlimiting example of such a compound is decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed, for instance, under the trade name "SH-200" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32— TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”.
  • the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) is/are volatile
  • the (a) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from cyclic silicones.
  • the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organo-modified polysiloxanes as explained above.
  • the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups known under the trade name dimethicones.
  • Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to such polydialkylsiloxanes include:
  • SILBIONE® fluids of the series 47 and 70 047 and MIRASIL® fluids marketed by RHODIA for example 70 047 fluid V 500 000; fluids of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; fluids of the series 200 marketed by DOW CORNING such as DC200, with a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 /s;
  • Polyalkylarylsiloxanes may be chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenyl siloxanes.
  • Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylarylsiloxanes include the products marketed under the following trade names:
  • SILBIONE® fluids of the 70 641 series from RHODIA SILBIONE® fluids of the 70 641 series from RHODIA
  • RHODORSIL® fluids of the 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA phenyltrimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING;
  • PK series silicones from BAYER for example, the PK20 product
  • PN PH series silicones from BAYER, for example, the PN1000 and PHI 000 products; and some SF series fluids from GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.
  • Organo-modified silicones which may be used according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those previously defined and comprising within their structure at least one organo-functional moiety or group linked directly or by means of a hydrocarbon group.
  • Organo-modified silicones may include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy moieties optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl moieties, such as products called dimethicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 and under the trade name DC Q2-5220 and SIL WET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, and L 711 fluids marketed by UNION CARBIDE, as well as PEG 12 dimethicone marked under the trade name XIAMETER® OFX-0193 FLUID by DOW CORNING, and (Ci2)alkyl-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200; optionally substituted amine moieties, for example, the products marketed under the trade name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE and the products marketed under the trade names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING
  • Aminosilicones or amodimethicones may have additional C1-C4 alkoxy functional groups, such as those corresponding to the WACKER BELSIL ADM LOG 1 product.
  • Aminosilicones or amodimethicones may have at least one, preferably two, additional alkyl group(s) such as C12-C20, preferably C14-C18, and more preferably Ci6 -Cis alkyl groups, preferably at the terminal(s) of the molecular chain thereof, such as bis- cetearylamodimethicone, marketed under the trade name “Silsoft Ax” by Momentive Performance Materials; alkoxy lated moieties, such as the product marketed under the trade name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434, and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT; hydroxylated moieties, such as hydroxyalkyl function-containing polyorganosiloxanes described, for instance, in French Patent Application No.
  • additional alkyl group(s) such as C12-C20, preferably C14-C18, and more preferably Ci6 -Cis alkyl groups, preferably
  • acyloxyalkyl moieties for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,957,732; anionic moieties of the carboxylic acid type, for example, the products described in European Patent No.
  • a non-limiting example of a corresponding commercial product is the Q2-8413 product marketed by DOW CORNING; acrylic moieties, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M; polyamine moieties, and oxazoline moieties silicones that may be used according to the present invention may comprise 1 or 2 oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-b-dimethyl siloxane-b-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane).
  • the products marketed by KAO under the references OX -40, OS-51, OS-96, and OS-88 may also be used.
  • Polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups may also be used, for example, those sold under the trade name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as fluids of the 48 series marketed by RHODIA.
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and organo-modified polydimethylsiloxanes.
  • the organo-modified polydimethylsiloxane may be selected from amodimethicones.
  • the viscosity of the polydimethylsiloxane or the organo-modified polydimethylsiloxane may be from 1,000,000 cst to 20,000,000 cst.
  • the (a-iii) silicone oil be selected from volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, that are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy, or phenyl groups that are pendent and/or at the end(s) of the silicone chain, which groups have from 1 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethy
  • PDMS
  • Non-limiting examples of such combinations include a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, marketed, for instance, under the trade name Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid by Dow Corning.
  • the (a-iii) silicone oil may be selected from linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes. It is preferable that the (a-iii) silicone oil be selected from linear polydimethylsiloxanes.
  • the (a-iii) silicone oil may be a linear polydimethylsiloxane with a viscosity of 1 ,000 cst or more, preferably 5,000 cst or more, and more preferably 10,000 cst or more, at 25°C. It is preferable that the linear polydimethylsiloxane have a viscosity of 1,000,000 cst or less, more preferably 800,000 cst or less, and even more preferably 600,000 cst or less, at 25°C.
  • the amount of the (a-iii) silicone oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a-iii) silicone oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition with the proviso that the amount of the (a-iii) silicone oil is not zero.
  • the amount of the (a-iii) silicone in the composition according to the present invention may range from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise (a-iv) at least one nonsilicone oil.
  • a single type of non-silicone oil may be used, or two or more different types of non-silicone oils may be used in combination.
  • oils means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • oils those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
  • the oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
  • plant oils mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil ojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • animal oils mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
  • alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ester oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ether oils such as triglycerides
  • the ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • At least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
  • ethyl palmitate ethyl hexyl palmitate
  • isopropyl palmitate dicaprylyl carbonate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sucrose means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
  • monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
  • ester oils mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2- ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laur
  • artificial triglycerides mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).
  • capryl caprylyl glycerides glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).
  • Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, Ce-Ci6 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
  • hydrocarbon oils As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R may be chosen from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
  • fatty alcohol examples include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce- C30 alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C12-C20 alcohols.
  • saturated fatty alcohol here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.
  • saturated fatty alcohols mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.
  • the (a-iv) non-silicone oil be selected from ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from mixtures of ester oils and hydrocarbon oils.
  • the amount of the (a-iv) non-silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a-iv) non-silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a-iv) non-silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention comprises (b-i) at least one polyol, and (b-ii) water.
  • the amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 35% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 65% by weight or less, and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may range from 25% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 35% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (b-i) at least one polyol.
  • Two or more different types of (b-i) polyols may be used in combination.
  • a single type of (b-i) polyol or a combination of different types of (b-i) polyols may be used.
  • polyol here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof.
  • the derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.
  • the polyols used in the present invention are liquid at ambient temperature such as 25°C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa).
  • the polyol may be a C2-C24 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.
  • the polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol.
  • the polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
  • the polyol may be selected from glycerins, glycols and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, C6-C24 polyethyleneglycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, and a mixture thereof.
  • the (b-i) polyol be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, ethyleneglycol, polyethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the (b-i) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably from 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b-i) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 30% by weight or less, preferably from 25% by weight or less, and more preferably from 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b-i) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (b-ii) water.
  • the amount of the (b-ii) water may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b-ii) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition with the proviso that the amount of the (b-ii) water is not zero.
  • the amount of (b-ii) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.
  • the optional or additional ingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of cationic, anionic, nonionic, or amphoteric polymers; anionic, nonionic, or amphoteric surfactants; organic or inorganic UV filters; peptides and derivatives thereof; protein hydrolyzates; swelling agents and penetrating agents; agents for combating hair loss; anti-dandruff agents; natural or synthetic thickeners for oils; suspending agents; sequestering agents; opacifying agents; dyes; sunscreen agents; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; preservatives, copreservatives, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the present invention may include at least one additional silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 2 cst, preferably more than 3 cst, and more preferably more than 4 cst, at 25°C, and 10 cst or less, preferably 9 cst or less, more preferably 8 cst or less, and even more preferably 7 cst or less, at 25°C.
  • composition according to the present invention include a cationic polymer and/or a cationic surfactant.
  • cationic polymer examples include cationic guar gums such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. Mention may be made of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride.
  • cationic surfactant mention may be made of fatty amide amines such as stearamidopropyldimethylamine and quaternary ammonium salts such as behentrimonium chloride and cetrimonium chloride.
  • the amount of the optional or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
  • the method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
  • a plurality of aqueous phases are dispersed in a fatty phase.
  • the aqueous phases are discontinuous phases, while the fatty phase is a continuous phase.
  • composition according the present invention be in the form of a waterin-wax (or wax/oil) type composition, more preferably a water-in-wax (or wax/oil) type emulsion.
  • the composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a hair cosmetic composition. It is more preferable that the composition according to the present invention be not used for dyeing or coloring keratin fibers such as hair.
  • composition according to the present invention may be a leave-on or leave-off type.
  • the leave-on type composition is not rinsed off after being used on keratin fibers.
  • the leave-off type composition is rinsed off after being used on keratin fibers. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a leave-on type.
  • composition according to the present invention does not comprise any pigment.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:
  • any conventional drying technique may be used to dry the keratin fibers.
  • the present invention may also relates to a use of a solid composition, comprising:
  • (a-iii) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 10 cst at 25°C;
  • (b-ii) water wherein the first wax is selected from waxes of natural origin, the second wax is selected from waxes of synthetic origin, and the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase, in order to cosmetically treat keratin fibers such as hair, characterized in that the original greasiness of the solid composition is reduced to, at least, cosmetically acceptable level when being applied onto the keratin fibers, with providing the keratin fibers with advantageous cosmetic effects such as sufficient finger through, detangling/combing, and softness of keratin fibers.
  • compositions for hair according to Examples 1-3 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 3) and Comparative Examples 1-3 (Comp. Ex. 1 to Comp. Ex. 3) was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1.
  • the ingredients for a fatty phase including waxes and oils, as well as surfactants were heated at 85°C and mixed with a mixer at around 700 rpm to obtain a mixture.
  • the ingredients for aqueous phases were added to the above mixture at 85°C, and emulsified with a mixer at around 1000 rpm for 20 minutes to obtain an emulsion.
  • the other ingredients including phenoxyethanol were added to the above emulsion at around 75°C and mixed with a mixer at around 2800 rpm for 5 minutes.
  • the obtained composition was discharged to a beaker at 75°C and cooled to room temperature.
  • the numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials.
  • the composition according to Example 1 was in the form of a W/O emulsion, and was able to reduce the original greasiness of the composition to acceptable level when being applied onto hair.
  • the composition according to Example 1 was also able to provide hair with acceptable finger through, acceptable detangling/combing, and acceptable softness of hair.
  • composition according to Example 2 which further included non-silicone oil (isononyl isononanoate) in addition to the ingredients in the composition according to Example 1, was in the form of a W/O emulsion, and was able to further reduce the original greasiness of the composition when being applied onto hair.
  • the composition according to Example 2 was also able to provide hair with good finger through, good detangling/combing, and good softness of hair.
  • composition according to Example 3 which further included hair conditioning agents/antistatic agents (hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine) in addition to the ingredients in the composition according to Example 1, was in the form of a W/O emulsion, and was able to even further reduce the original greasiness of the composition when being applied onto hair.
  • the composition according to Example 3 was also able to provide hair with very good finger through, very good detangling/combing, and very good softness of hair.
  • composition according to Comparative Example 1 which lacked the first wax was in the form of a W/O emulsion but could not reduce the original greasiness of the composition to acceptable level when being applied onto hair.
  • the composition according to Comparative Example 1 could not provide hair with acceptable finger through, acceptable detangling/combing, and acceptable softness of hair.
  • composition according to Comparative Example 2 which lacked the second wax was not in the form of a W/O emulsion, and therefore, the evaluation of cosmetic effects was not possible.
  • the composition according to Comparative Example 3 corresponds to the prior art disclosed in WO 2021/120084, because the specific formulations disclosed in WO 2021/120084 includes only silicone oil with a viscosity of 2 cst.
  • composition according to Comparative Example 3 which lacked the silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 10 cst at 25°C was in the form of a W/O emulsion but could not reduce the original greasiness of the composition to acceptable level when being applied onto hair.
  • the composition according to Comparative Example 3 could not provide hair with acceptable finger through, acceptable detangling/combing, and acceptable softness of hair.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid composition, preferably a solid cosmetic composition, for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising: (a) a fatty phase comprising (a-i) at least one first wax, (a-ii) at least one second wax, and (a-iii) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 10 cst at 25°C; and (b) a plurality of aqueous phases comprising (b-i) at least one polyol, and (b-ii) water, wherein the first wax is selected from waxes of natural origin, the second wax is selected from waxes of synthetic origin, and the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase. The original greasiness of the solid composition according to the present invention can be reduced to, at least, cosmetically acceptable level when being applied onto keratin fibers, with providing the keratin fibers with advantageous cosmetic effects such as sufficient finger through, detangling/combing, and softness of the keratin fibers.

Description

DESCRIPTION
TITLE OF INVENTION
SOLID COMPOSITION FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers such as hair as well as a process relating to the composition.
BACKGROUND ART
In the field of hair cosmetic treatments, the texture transformation of a cosmetic composition during application thereof onto hair is preferable because it could provide more pleasant feeling to use.
An example of such a cosmetic composition which could realize the texture transformation during application thereof may be based on a solid fatty substance such as solid oil which may melt during application. However, reducing greasiness, which the solid fatty substance originally has, during application to acceptable level is often difficult.
Another example to realize texture transformation may be based on, so-called, a solid emulsion comprising aqueous dispersed phases in a solid fatty substance as a continuous fatty phase. However, it is difficult to prepare such a solid emulsion without careful consideration.
WO 2021/120084 discloses a solid composition in the form of a W/O emulsion for making up and/or caring for skin. The solid composition disclosed in WO 2021/120084 is applied onto skin.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
It has been found that, when the solid composition disclosed in WO 2021/120084 is applied onto keratin fibers such as hair, not skin, the reduction of original greasiness of the solid composition is insufficient, and that cosmetic effects provided to the keratin fibers are also insufficient.
An objective of the present invention is to provide a solid composition which can reduce the original greasiness of the solid composition to, at least, cosmetically acceptable level when being applied onto keratin fibers, with providing the keratin fibers with advantageous cosmetic effects such as sufficient finger through, detangling/combing, and softness of keratin fibers.
The above objective can be achieved by a solid composition, preferably a solid cosmetic composition, for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:
(a) a fatty phase comprising
(a-i) at least one first wax,
(a-ii) at least one second wax, and
(a-iii) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 10 cst at 25°C; and (b) a plurality of aqueous phases comprising
(b-i) at least one polyol, and
(b-ii) water, wherein the first wax is selected from waxes of natural origin, the second wax is selected from waxes of synthetic origin, and the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase.
It is preferable that the (a-i) first wax be jojoba esters.
The amount of the (a-i) first wax in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is preferable that the (a-ii) second wax be polyethylene wax.
The amount of the (a-ii) second wax in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The (a-iii) silicone oil may be selected from linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes.
The (a-iii) silicone oil may be a linear polydimethylsiloxane with a viscosity of 1,000 cst or more, preferably 5,000 cst or more, and more preferably 10,000 cst or more, at 25°C.
The amount of the (a-iii) silicone oil in the composition according to the present invention may be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (a) fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 25% to 55% by weight, more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The (b-i) polyol may be selected from glycerins, glycols and mixtures thereof.
The amount of the (b-i) polyol in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (b-ii) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (b) aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention may be from 25% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 65% by weight, more preferably from 35% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise (a-iv) at least one non-silicone oil, preferably selected from ester oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from mixtures of ester oils and hydrocarbon oils.
The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:
(1 ) applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers;
(2) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers; and
(3) optionally drying the keratin fibers.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a solid composition which can reduce the original greasiness of the solid composition to, at least, cosmetically acceptable level when being applied onto keratin fibers, with providing the keratin fibers with advantageous cosmetic effects such as sufficient finger through, detangling/combing, and softness of keratin fibers.
Thus, the present invention relates to a solid composition, preferably a solid cosmetic composition, for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:
(a) a fatty phase comprising
(a-i) at least one first wax,
(a-ii) at least one second wax, and
(a-iii) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 10 cst at 25°C; and
(b) a plurality of aqueous phases comprising
(b-i) at least one polyol, and
(b-ii) water, wherein the first wax is selected from waxes of natural origin, the second wax is selected from waxes of synthetic origin, and the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase.
The “keratin fibers” here mean fibers which include at least one keratin substance. It is preferable that at least a part of the surface of the keratin fibers be formed by keratin substances. Examples of keratin fibers include hair, eyebrows, eyelashes, and the like. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be used for treating hair.
The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a W/O emulsion.
When the composition according to the present invention is applied onto keratin fibers such as hair, the original greasiness of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced to, at least, cosmetically acceptable level. Thus, texture transformation is possible for the composition according to the present invention when being applied onto keratin fibers. It is preferable that the original greasiness of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced when being applied onto keratin fibers such that no or little greasiness is perceived. Although the composition according to the present invention has an outer fatty phase, it can be easily applied onto keratin fibers because the original greasiness derived from the outer fatty phase can be reduced.
The composition according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with advantageous cosmetic effects such as conditioning effects. The cosmetic effects provided by the composition according to the present invention can be reflected by, for example, smooth finger through, and/or ease of detangling or combing and/or softness of keratin fibers. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers with sufficient finger through, detangling/combing, and/or softness.
The composition according to the present invention is stable. The composition according to the present invention does not cause phase separation for a long period of time even under elevated temperature. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention appears homogeneous and can maintain its homogeneous aspect.
Hereafter, the present invention will be described in a detailed manner.
[Composition]
One aspect of the present invention relates to a solid composition, preferably a solid cosmetic composition, for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:
(a) a fatty phase comprising
(a-i) at least one first wax,
(a-ii) at least one second wax, and
(a-iii) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 10 cst at 25°C; and
(b) a plurality of aqueous phases comprising
(b-i) at least one polyol, and
(b-ii) water, wherein the first wax is selected from waxes of natural origin, the second wax is selected from waxes of synthetic origin, and the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase.
The term “solid” here means the state at room temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). A solid composition has high consistency and can maintain its form during storage. Contrary to a “fluid” composition, a solid composition does not flow under its own weight. For example, a solid composition does not flow under its own weight at room temperature under atmospheric pressure after 1 hour.
The “solid” may be defined that the measurement of the maximum force measured by texturometry during the penetration of a probe into a formulation sample should be at least equal to 0.25 newtons, in particular at least equal to 0.30 newtons and especially at least equal to 0.35 newtons, evaluated under specific measuring conditions as follows.
The formulations are cast while hot into jars 4 cm in diameter and 3 cm deep. Cooling is performed at room temperature. The hardness of the formulations prepared is measured after waiting for 24 hours. The jars containing the samples are characterized in texturometry using a texturometer such as the machine TA-XT2 sold by the company Rheo, according to the following protocol: a probe of stainless-steel ball type 5 mm in diameter is brought into contact with the sample at a speed of 1 mm/sec. The measuring system detects the interface with the sample with a detection threshold equal to 0.005 newtons. The probe penetrates 0.3 mm into the sample, at a speed of 0.1 mm/sec. The measuring machine records the change in force measured in compression over time, during the penetration phase. The hardness of the sample corresponds to the mean of the maximum values of the force detected during penetration, over at least three measurements. {Fatty Phase}
The fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention comprises
(a-i) at least one first wax,
(a-ii) at least one second wax, and
(a-iii) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 10 cst at 25°C.
The (a-i) first wax and the (a-ii) second wax are different from each other.
The term “wax” here means a lipophilic compound (in particular, a wax ester: an ester of a higher fatty acid (Cio or more, preferably C12 or more) and a higher alcohol (Cs or more)), which is solid at room temperature (25°C), except for jojoba oil, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably 40°C, and more preferably 50°C, which may be up to 100°C.
For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point is measured, for example in accordance with ASTM DI 27.
The (a-i) first wax and the (a-ii) second wax used in the composition according to the present invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 60°C, preferably greater than or equal to 65°C, and more preferably greater than or equal to 75°C. The (a-i) first wax and the (a-ii) second wax used in the composition according to the present invention may have a melting point of up to 90°C, preferably up to 85°C.
The (a-i) first wax and/or the (a-ii) second wax may have a hardness at 20°C of greater than 5 MPa, and especially ranging from 5 to 15 MPa.
The hardness of wax can be determined by measuring the compressive force, measured at 20°C using a texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2 by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter, travelling at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/second, and penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
The measuring protocol of the hardness is as follows:
The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10°C. The molten wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25°C) for 24 hours such that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, and the wax is then stored for at least 1 hour at 20°C before measuring the hardness or the tack.
The texturometer spindle is displaced at a speed of 0.1 mm/s, and then penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. When the spindle has penetrated the wax to a depth of 0.3 mm, the spindle is held still for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then withdrawn at a speed of 0.5 mm/s.
The hardness value is the maximum compression force measured divided by the area of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.
The amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 25% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. On the other hand, the amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 60% by weight or less, preferably 55% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Accordingly, the amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may range from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 25% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(First Wax)
The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-i) at least one first wax. A single type of first wax may be used, or two or more different types of first waxes may be used in combination.
The (a-i) first wax is selected from waxes of natural origin. In other words, the (a-i) first wax is a natural wax.
Examples of the natural wax include a petroleum wax, a plant wax, and an animal wax.
Examples of the petroleum wax include a paraffin wax, a microcrystalline wax, and a petrolatum.
Examples of the plant wax include jojoba esters, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter, cork fibre wax and sugarcane wax.
Examples of the animal wax include lanolin wax, lanolin derivatives and beeswax.
It is preferable that the (a-i) first wax be jojoba esters.
Jojoba esters may be represented by formula (I):
R’-COO-CH2R1 (I) wherein R1 comprises CH3(CH2)y-, and y is 16, 18, 20 or 22.
The jojoba esters (wax) can be obtained by hydrogenation of jojoba oil of the following formula (II):
CH3-(CH2)7-CH=CH-CH2-(CH2)x-C(=O)-O-CH2-(CH2)y-CH=CH-(CH2)7-CH3 (II) wherein x and y are independently 6, 8, 10 or 12.
Jojoba oil is composed of straight chain mono-unsaturated fatty alcohols and monounsaturated fatty acids. The single double bond is located in the middle (n-9 position), counting from the terminal methyl group (-CH3) of respective fatty acid or alcohol chain. Thus, from a view point of chemical structure jojoba oil is rather liquid wax, and is composed of esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids of even number of carbon atoms, primarily 20 and 22 carbons. The resulting esters have chain lengths of 38, 40, 42 and 44 with a small amount of esters of 36- and 4-carbon atoms being present. The typical composition of jojoba oil is set out below.
Figure imgf000008_0001
Jojoba oil can be derived from the seed of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis).
In additionjojoba esters may be obtained by the ester exchange of jojoba oil and hydrogenated jojoba oil.
Jojoba esters are commercially available, for example, from Vantage Specialty Ingredients, Inc., as Jojoba Ester 70.
The amount of the (a-i) first wax in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 % by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (a-i) first wax in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, with the proviso that the amount of the (a-i) first wax is not zero.
The amount of the (a-i) first wax in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Second Wax)
The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-ii) at least one second wax. A single type of second wax may be used, or two or more different types of second waxes may be used in combination.
The (a-ii) second wax is selected from waxes of synthetic origin. In other words, the (a-ii) second wax is a synthetic wax.
Examples of the synthetic wax include a synthetic hydrocarbon wax and a modified wax.
Examples of the synthetic hydrocarbon wax include polyethylene wax, polypropylene wax, and Fischer-Tropsch wax.
Examples of the modified wax include a paraffin wax derivative, a montan wax derivative, and a microcrystalline wax derivative. It is preferable that the (a-ii) second wax be selected from a synthetic hydrocarbon wax such as a polyethylene wax, a polypropylene wax, and a Fischer-Tropsch wax.
Examples of the polyethylene wax include an ethylene homopolymer and an ethylene-alpha - olefin copolymer. Alternatively, the wax may be obtained by thermal decomposition of the copolymer. Examples of the alpha-olefin include an alpha-olefin having 3 to 12 carbon atoms such as propylene, 1 -butene, 1 -pentene, 1 -hexene, 4-methyl-l -pentene, and 1 -octene.
Examples of the polypropylene wax include a propylene homopolymer, an ethylenepropylene copolymer (which is a random or block copolymer), and propylene-alpha-olefin (except for ethylene or propylene) copolymer. Alternatively, the wax may be obtained by thermal decomposition of the copolymer. Examples of the alpha-olefin include 1 -butene, 1- pentene, 1-hexene, 1-heptene, 1 -octene, 4-methyl-l -pentene, 1-decene, 1-dodecene, 1- tetradecene, 1 -hexadecene, and 1 -octadecene.
The polyethylene wax and the polypropylene wax can be obtained by a known method using a polymerization catalyst such as a Ziegler catalyst, a Ziegler-Natta catalyst, and a metallocene catalyst. In particular, the polyethylene wax and the polypropylene wax obtained by using a metallocene catalyst as a polymerization catalyst are preferable, having a narrow molecular weight distribution and stable quality, in comparison with the polyethylene wax and the polypropylene wax obtained by using a Ziegler catalyst or a Ziegler-Natta catalyst as a polymerization catalyst.
The Fischer-Tropsch wax is a synthetic hydrocarbon wax mainly comprising linear hydrocarbons, which is obtained by reacting water gas containing carbon monoxide and hydrogen as main components under normal pressure at 170 to 250°C using a catalyst such as cobalt, nickel, or iron. The Fischer-Tropsch wax is characterized in comprising hydrocarbons containing odd and even numbers of carbon atoms, namely comprising both hydrocarbons containing odd numbers of carbon atoms and hydrocarbons containing even numbers of carbon atoms.
Most preferably, the (a-ii) second wax is polyethylene wax.
The amount of the (a-ii) second wax in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (a-ii) second wax in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, with the proviso that the amount of the (a-ii) second wax is not zero.
The amount of the (a-ii) second wax in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Silicone Oil)
The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-iii) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 10 cst at 25°C. A single type of such a silicone oil may be used, or two or more different types of such silicone oils may be used in combination.
The viscosity measurement is generally carried out at 25°C using a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer equipped with a No. 2 spindle, the measurement being carried out after rotating the spindle within the composition for 10 minutes (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the rotational speed of the spindle is observed), at 200 revolutions/min (rpm).
The (a-iii) silicone oil may have a viscosity of 100 cst or more, preferably 500 cst or more, more preferably 1,000 cst or more, more preferably 5,000 cst or more, more preferably 10,000 cst or more, more preferably 50,000 cst or more, and even more preferably 100,000 cst or more, at 25°C.
Here, “silicone oil” means a silicone compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the silicone oils, those generally used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination thereof.
Silicones or organopolysiloxanes are defined, for instance, by Walter NOLL in "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
The (a-iii) silicone oil(s) may be selected from volatile silicones, non-volatile silicones and mixtures thereof.
Thus, the (a-iii) silicone oil may comprise either at least one volatile silicone oil or at least one non-volatile silicone oil, or both of at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one nonvolatile silicone oil.
The volatile or non-volatile silicone may be selected from linear, branched, or cyclic silicones, optionally modified with at least one organo-functional moiety or group.
For example, the (a-iii) silicone oil may be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyltrimethicone, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organo-modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one organo-functional moiety or group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) moieties or groups, amine or amide moieties or groups, alkoxy or alkoxyalkyl moieties or groups, hydroxyl or hydroxylated moieties or groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl moieties or groups, carboxylic acid or carboxylate moieties or groups, hydroxyacylamino moieties or groups, acrylic moieties or groups, polyamine or polyamide moieties or groups, and oxazoline moieties.
If the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) is/are volatile, the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from those having a boiling point ranging from 60°C to 260°C, for example:
(i) cyclic silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, for instance, from 4 to 6 silicon atoms. Non-limiting examples of such siloxanes include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed, for instance, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, KF-995 by SHIN ETSU, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane(INCI: CYCLOHEXASILOXANE) marketed, for instance, under the trade name XIAMETER® PMX-246 and the trade name DC246 Fluid by Dow Corning, as well as mixtures thereof. Cyclomethicones may also be used, for example, those marketed under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345, and DC 246 by DOW CORNING. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type may also be used, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula r '
Figure imgf000011_0002
wherein:
Figure imgf000011_0001
Combinations of cyclic silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes with silicon derived organic compounds may also be used, such as an octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) mixture, and an octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bisneopentane mixture; and
(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 9 silicon atoms. A nonlimiting example of such a compound is decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed, for instance, under the trade name "SH-200" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32— TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics".
If the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) is/are volatile, the (a) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from cyclic silicones.
On the other hand, the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organo-modified polysiloxanes as explained above.
According to one embodiment, the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups known under the trade name dimethicones.
Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to such polydialkylsiloxanes include:
SILBIONE® fluids of the series 47 and 70 047 and MIRASIL® fluids marketed by RHODIA, for example 70 047 fluid V 500 000; fluids of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; fluids of the series 200 marketed by DOW CORNING such as DC200, with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2/s;
XIAMETER® PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 60000CS marketed by Dow Coming; VISCASIL® fluids of GENERAL ELECTRIC and some fluids of the SF series (e.g., SF 96 and SF 18) of GENERAL ELECTRIC; and the fluid marketed under the reference DC 1664 by DOW CORNING.
Products marketed under the trade names "ABIL Wax® 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT belonging to this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes, may also be used.
Polyalkylarylsiloxanes may be chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenyl siloxanes.
Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylarylsiloxanes include the products marketed under the following trade names:
SILBIONE® fluids of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; RHODORSIL® fluids of the 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA; phenyltrimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING;
PK series silicones from BAYER, for example, the PK20 product;
PN, PH series silicones from BAYER, for example, the PN1000 and PHI 000 products; and some SF series fluids from GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.
Organo-modified silicones which may be used according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those previously defined and comprising within their structure at least one organo-functional moiety or group linked directly or by means of a hydrocarbon group.
Organo-modified silicones may include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy moieties optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl moieties, such as products called dimethicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 and under the trade name DC Q2-5220 and SIL WET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, and L 711 fluids marketed by UNION CARBIDE, as well as PEG 12 dimethicone marked under the trade name XIAMETER® OFX-0193 FLUID by DOW CORNING, and (Ci2)alkyl-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200; optionally substituted amine moieties, for example, the products marketed under the trade name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE and the products marketed under the trade names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 and 939 by DOW CORNING. Substituted amine moieties may be chosen, for example, from amino C1-C4 alkyl moieties.
Aminosilicones or amodimethicones may have additional C1-C4 alkoxy functional groups, such as those corresponding to the WACKER BELSIL ADM LOG 1 product.
Aminosilicones or amodimethicones may have at least one, preferably two, additional alkyl group(s) such as C12-C20, preferably C14-C18, and more preferably Ci6 -Cis alkyl groups, preferably at the terminal(s) of the molecular chain thereof, such as bis- cetearylamodimethicone, marketed under the trade name “Silsoft Ax” by Momentive Performance Materials; alkoxy lated moieties, such as the product marketed under the trade name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434, and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT; hydroxylated moieties, such as hydroxyalkyl function-containing polyorganosiloxanes described, for instance, in French Patent Application No. FR-A-85 163 34; acyloxyalkyl moieties, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,957,732; anionic moieties of the carboxylic acid type, for example, the products described in European Patent No. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and carboxylic alkyl anionic moieties, such as those present in the X-22-3701E product marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2- hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names «ABIL® S201» and «ABIL® S255»; hydroxyacylamino moieties, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in European Patent Application No. 0 342 834. A non-limiting example of a corresponding commercial product is the Q2-8413 product marketed by DOW CORNING; acrylic moieties, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M; polyamine moieties, and oxazoline moieties
Figure imgf000013_0001
silicones that may be used according to the present invention may comprise 1 or 2 oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-b-dimethyl siloxane-b-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane). The products marketed by KAO under the references OX -40, OS-51, OS-96, and OS-88 may also be used.
Polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups may also be used, for example, those sold under the trade name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as fluids of the 48 series marketed by RHODIA.
If the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) is/are non-volatile, the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and organo-modified polydimethylsiloxanes. The organo-modified polydimethylsiloxane may be selected from amodimethicones. The viscosity of the polydimethylsiloxane or the organo-modified polydimethylsiloxane may be from 1,000,000 cst to 20,000,000 cst.
It may be preferable that the (a-iii) silicone oil be selected from volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, that are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy, or phenyl groups that are pendent and/or at the end(s) of the silicone chain, which groups have from 1 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and organo-modified silicones such as dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol (e.g., PEG 12 dimethicone) and amodimethicone (e.g., bis- cetearylamodimethicone). It is possible to use a combination of at least one volatile silicone and at least one non-volatile silicone, as the (a-iii) silicone oil. Non-limiting examples of such combinations include a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, marketed, for instance, under the trade name Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid by Dow Corning.
The (a-iii) silicone oil may be selected from linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes. It is preferable that the (a-iii) silicone oil be selected from linear polydimethylsiloxanes.
The (a-iii) silicone oil may be a linear polydimethylsiloxane with a viscosity of 1 ,000 cst or more, preferably 5,000 cst or more, and more preferably 10,000 cst or more, at 25°C. It is preferable that the linear polydimethylsiloxane have a viscosity of 1,000,000 cst or less, more preferably 800,000 cst or less, and even more preferably 600,000 cst or less, at 25°C.
The amount of the (a-iii) silicone oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of the (a-iii) silicone oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition with the proviso that the amount of the (a-iii) silicone oil is not zero.
Accordingly, the amount of the (a-iii) silicone in the composition according to the present invention may range from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Non-Silicone Oil)
The composition according to the present invention may comprise (a-iv) at least one nonsilicone oil. A single type of non-silicone oil may be used, or two or more different types of non-silicone oils may be used in combination.
Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil ojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof. As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2- ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).
Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, Ce-Ci6 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
The term “fatty” in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group. As examples of the fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
Thus, the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce- C30 alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C12-C20 alcohols.
The term “saturated fatty alcohol” here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.
As examples of saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.
According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.
It is preferable that the (a-iv) non-silicone oil be selected from ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from mixtures of ester oils and hydrocarbon oils.
The amount of the (a-iv) non-silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (a-iv) non-silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (a-iv) non-silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
{Aqueous Phase}
The aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention comprises (b-i) at least one polyol, and (b-ii) water. The amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 35% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 65% by weight or less, and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Accordingly, the amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may range from 25% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 35% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Polyol)
The composition according to the present invention comprises (b-i) at least one polyol. Two or more different types of (b-i) polyols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (b-i) polyol or a combination of different types of (b-i) polyols may be used.
The term “polyol” here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.
The polyols used in the present invention are liquid at ambient temperature such as 25°C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa).
The polyol may be a C2-C24 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.
The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
The polyol may be selected from glycerins, glycols and mixtures thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, C6-C24 polyethyleneglycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, and a mixture thereof.
It is preferable that the (b-i) polyol be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, ethyleneglycol, polyethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, and a mixture thereof.
The amount of the (b-i) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably from 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the (b-i) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 30% by weight or less, preferably from 25% by weight or less, and more preferably from 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (b-i) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Water)
The composition according to the present invention comprises (b-ii) water.
The amount of the (b-ii) water may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of the (b-ii) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition with the proviso that the amount of the (b-ii) water is not zero.
The amount of (b-ii) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Optional Ingredient)
The composition according to the present invention may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.
The optional or additional ingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of cationic, anionic, nonionic, or amphoteric polymers; anionic, nonionic, or amphoteric surfactants; organic or inorganic UV filters; peptides and derivatives thereof; protein hydrolyzates; swelling agents and penetrating agents; agents for combating hair loss; anti-dandruff agents; natural or synthetic thickeners for oils; suspending agents; sequestering agents; opacifying agents; dyes; sunscreen agents; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; preservatives, copreservatives, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to the present invention may include at least one additional silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 2 cst, preferably more than 3 cst, and more preferably more than 4 cst, at 25°C, and 10 cst or less, preferably 9 cst or less, more preferably 8 cst or less, and even more preferably 7 cst or less, at 25°C.
It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention include a cationic polymer and/or a cationic surfactant.
As examples of the cationic polymer, mention may be made of cationic guar gums such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. Mention may be made of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride. As examples of the cationic surfactant, mention may be made of fatty amide amines such as stearamidopropyldimethylamine and quaternary ammonium salts such as behentrimonium chloride and cetrimonium chloride.
The amount of the optional or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
{Preparation}
The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
{Form}
In the composition according to the present invention, a plurality of aqueous phases are dispersed in a fatty phase. The aqueous phases are discontinuous phases, while the fatty phase is a continuous phase.
It is preferable that the composition according the present invention be in the form of a waterin-wax (or wax/oil) type composition, more preferably a water-in-wax (or wax/oil) type emulsion.
{Application}
The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a hair cosmetic composition. It is more preferable that the composition according to the present invention be not used for dyeing or coloring keratin fibers such as hair.
The composition according to the present invention may be a leave-on or leave-off type.
The leave-on type composition is not rinsed off after being used on keratin fibers. The leave-off type composition is rinsed off after being used on keratin fibers. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a leave-on type.
It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise any pigment.
[Process]
The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:
(1) applying the composition according to the present invention as explained above to the keratin fibers; (2) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers; and
(3) optionally drying the keratin fibers.
As the drying step, any conventional drying technique may be used to dry the keratin fibers.
It is possible to perform, if necessary, a step of rinsing before and/or after drying the keratin fibers.
[Use]
The present invention may also relates to a use of a solid composition, comprising:
(a) a fatty phase comprising
(a-i) at least one first wax with a melting point of 50°C or more,
(a-ii) at least one second wax with a melting point of 50°C or more, and
(a-iii) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 10 cst at 25°C; and
(b) a plurality of aqueous phases comprising
(b-i) at least one polyol, and
(b-ii) water, wherein the first wax is selected from waxes of natural origin, the second wax is selected from waxes of synthetic origin, and the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase, in order to cosmetically treat keratin fibers such as hair, characterized in that the original greasiness of the solid composition is reduced to, at least, cosmetically acceptable level when being applied onto the keratin fibers, with providing the keratin fibers with advantageous cosmetic effects such as sufficient finger through, detangling/combing, and softness of keratin fibers.
The above explanations regarding the ingredients (a-i) to (a-iii) and (b-i) to (b-ii) can apply to those in the use according to the present invention.
EXAMPLES
The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3
[Preparation]
Each of the compositions for hair according to Examples 1-3 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 3) and Comparative Examples 1-3 (Comp. Ex. 1 to Comp. Ex. 3) was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1.
Specifically, first, the ingredients for a fatty phase including waxes and oils, as well as surfactants, were heated at 85°C and mixed with a mixer at around 700 rpm to obtain a mixture. Separately, the ingredients for aqueous phases were added to the above mixture at 85°C, and emulsified with a mixer at around 1000 rpm for 20 minutes to obtain an emulsion. The other ingredients including phenoxyethanol were added to the above emulsion at around 75°C and mixed with a mixer at around 2800 rpm for 5 minutes. Finally, the obtained composition was discharged to a beaker at 75°C and cooled to room temperature. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials.
Table 1
Figure imgf000022_0001
* at 25°C NA: Not Available
[Emulsion Formation]
It was observed with a microscope whether the compositions according to Examples 1 -3 and Comparative Examples 1 -3 were in the form of a W/O emulsion. The results are shown in Table 1.
[Evaluations]
2.7 g of a bleached hair swatch in length of 27 cm was made wet with water. Excessive water was removed with a towel. 0.1 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was applied onto the hair swatch, then the hair swatch was completely dried. The finger through, detangling/combing, softness of hair, and non- greasiness on hair were evaluated by 5 panelists with scoring 1 to 5 in accordance with the following criteria and averaged. The results are shown in Table 1.
5: Very Good
4: Good
3: Fair
2: Poor
1 : Very Poor
The criteria of “Fair”, “Good” and “Very Good” are acceptable.
The criteria of “Poor” and “Very Poor” are not acceptable.
{Summary}
The composition according to Example 1 was in the form of a W/O emulsion, and was able to reduce the original greasiness of the composition to acceptable level when being applied onto hair. The composition according to Example 1 was also able to provide hair with acceptable finger through, acceptable detangling/combing, and acceptable softness of hair.
The composition according to Example 2, which further included non-silicone oil (isononyl isononanoate) in addition to the ingredients in the composition according to Example 1, was in the form of a W/O emulsion, and was able to further reduce the original greasiness of the composition when being applied onto hair. The composition according to Example 2 was also able to provide hair with good finger through, good detangling/combing, and good softness of hair.
The composition according to Example 3, which further included hair conditioning agents/antistatic agents (hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine) in addition to the ingredients in the composition according to Example 1, was in the form of a W/O emulsion, and was able to even further reduce the original greasiness of the composition when being applied onto hair. The composition according to Example 3 was also able to provide hair with very good finger through, very good detangling/combing, and very good softness of hair.
The composition according to Comparative Example 1 which lacked the first wax was in the form of a W/O emulsion but could not reduce the original greasiness of the composition to acceptable level when being applied onto hair. The composition according to Comparative Example 1 could not provide hair with acceptable finger through, acceptable detangling/combing, and acceptable softness of hair.
The composition according to Comparative Example 2 which lacked the second wax was not in the form of a W/O emulsion, and therefore, the evaluation of cosmetic effects was not possible. The composition according to Comparative Example 3 corresponds to the prior art disclosed in WO 2021/120084, because the specific formulations disclosed in WO 2021/120084 includes only silicone oil with a viscosity of 2 cst.
The composition according to Comparative Example 3 which lacked the silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 10 cst at 25°C was in the form of a W/O emulsion but could not reduce the original greasiness of the composition to acceptable level when being applied onto hair. The composition according to Comparative Example 3 could not provide hair with acceptable finger through, acceptable detangling/combing, and acceptable softness of hair.

Claims

1. A solid composition, preferably a solid cosmetic composition, for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:
(a) a fatty phase comprising
(a-i) at least one first wax,
(a-ii) at least one second wax, and
(a-iii) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity of more than 10 cst at 25°C; and
(b) a plurality of aqueous phases comprising
(b-i) at least one polyol, and
(b-ii) water, wherein the first wax is selected from waxes of natural origin, the second wax is selected from waxes of synthetic origin, and the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase.
2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a-i) first wax is jojoba esters.
3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the (a-i) first wax is from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the (a-ii) second wax is polyethylene wax.
5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of the (a-ii) second wax is from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the (a-iii) silicone oil is selected from linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes.
7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the (a-iii) silicone oil is a linear polydimethylsiloxane with a viscosity of 1 ,000 cst or more, preferably 5,000 cst or more, and more preferably 10,000 cst or more, at 25°C.
8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of the (a-iii) silicone oil is from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of the (a) fatty phase is from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 25% to 55% by weight, more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the (b-i) polyol is selected from glycerins, glycols and mixtures thereof.
24 The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the amount of the (b-i) polyol is from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the amount of the (b-ii) water is from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the amount of the (b) aqueous phases is from 25% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 65% by weight, more preferably from 35% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the fatty phase further comprises (a-iv) at least one non-silicone oil, preferably selected from ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from mixtures of ester oils and hydrocarbon oils. A process for treating keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:
(1) applying the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 to the keratin fibers;
(2) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers; and
(3) optionally drying the keratin fibers.
PCT/JP2022/042778 2021-11-26 2022-11-11 Solid composition for treating keratin fibers WO2023095719A1 (en)

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FR2201026 2022-02-07
FR2201026A FR3132432A1 (en) 2022-02-07 2022-02-07 solid composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers

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Citations (8)

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EP0342834A2 (en) 1988-05-17 1989-11-23 Dow Corning Limited Treatment of fibrous materials
US4957732A (en) 1988-12-29 1990-09-18 L'oreal Shaving composition for the skin based on polyorgano-siloxanes containing an acyloxyalkyl group and process for use
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EP0186507A2 (en) 1984-12-22 1986-07-02 Chisso Corporation Carboxyl group-containing siloxane compounds
EP0342834A2 (en) 1988-05-17 1989-11-23 Dow Corning Limited Treatment of fibrous materials
US4957732A (en) 1988-12-29 1990-09-18 L'oreal Shaving composition for the skin based on polyorgano-siloxanes containing an acyloxyalkyl group and process for use
FR2773073B1 (en) * 1997-12-30 2003-01-03 Rhodia Chimie Sa USE OF SILICONES WITH ESTER FUNCTIONS AS ANTI-TRANSFER AGENTS IN COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS
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