WO2023057172A1 - Protection against pollution by polysaccharide gums - Google Patents
Protection against pollution by polysaccharide gums Download PDFInfo
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- WO2023057172A1 WO2023057172A1 PCT/EP2022/075282 EP2022075282W WO2023057172A1 WO 2023057172 A1 WO2023057172 A1 WO 2023057172A1 EP 2022075282 W EP2022075282 W EP 2022075282W WO 2023057172 A1 WO2023057172 A1 WO 2023057172A1
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- WIPO (PCT)
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- composition
- skin
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- particulate matter
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- 150000004676 glycans Chemical class 0.000 title claims description 38
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 title claims description 38
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 title claims description 38
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 35
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 114
- 239000013618 particulate matter Substances 0.000 claims description 45
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 39
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- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- ZQCIPRGNRQXXSK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-octadecoxypropan-2-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOCC(C)O ZQCIPRGNRQXXSK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 229940078491 ppg-15 stearyl ether Drugs 0.000 claims description 6
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- 239000003431 cross linking reagent Substances 0.000 description 1
- ZAKOWWREFLAJOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N d-alpha-Tocopheryl acetate Natural products CC(=O)OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C ZAKOWWREFLAJOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- HUVYTMDMDZRHBN-UHFFFAOYSA-N drometrizole trisiloxane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)CC(C)CC1=CC(C)=CC(N2N=C3C=CC=CC3=N2)=C1O HUVYTMDMDZRHBN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- MJVGBKJNTFCUJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N mexenone Chemical compound OC1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=C(C)C=C1 MJVGBKJNTFCUJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxybenzone Chemical compound OC1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LXTZRIBXKVRLOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N padimate a Chemical compound CCCCCOC(=O)C1=CC=C(N(C)C)C=C1 LXTZRIBXKVRLOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000012188 paraffin wax Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 231100000760 phototoxic Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 235000011765 phytoene Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-N sulfonic acid Chemical class OS(=O)=O BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
Definitions
- the present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a specific use of cosmetic ingredients allowing for an effective protection of the human skin from particulate matter by forming by protective layer or conditioning the skin in a way such that particulate matter does less adhere to the skin and can be washed away easily with tap water.
- a beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people.
- One typical sign of such an appearance is a healthy and smooth looking skin. Therefore, in order to take care on the skin, it is for many people a daily routine to apply cosmetic products such as body lotions and sunscreen compositions.
- compositions containing UV-filters are commonly used to protect the skin from the ultraviolet radiation of the sunlight.
- acute damage severe burn
- long-term damage such as an increased risk of skin cancer occurs in case of excessive irradiation with light from the UVB range (wavelength: 280-320 nm).
- the excessive exposure of UVB and UVA radiation (wavelength: 320-400 nm) also leads to a weakening of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue. This leads to numerous photo-toxic and photo- allergic reactions and results in premature skin ageing.
- UVA and UVB filters are grouped in the most developed countries in the form of positive lists such as Annex VI of the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.
- particulate matter is understood as solid matter suspended in the earth’s atmosphere. Sources of particulate matter can be natural or anthropogenic.
- a special kind of particulate matter are particles from smog, tabacco smoke and flying ash, which appearance may be caused by forest fires, smoking or the exhaust of engines.
- Such particulate matter usually has a diameter in the range from 0.01 m to 100 pm, wherein smog and tobacco smoke typically cover the range from 0.01 pm to 2.5pm.
- particulate matter especially from smog and tobacco smoke, may adversely affect the human health. Inhalation of such particles may lead to an increased risk of lung cancer.
- high concentration of such particulate matter in the air also leads to an increased particle deposition on the skin. The correlation between high concentration of particulate matter in the air and the effect on the skin has recently been evaluated in a number of scientific studies.
- Cosmetic products are often used to protect the human skin from environmental effects.
- the US2007/0003536 discloses a method for protecting human skin against oxidizing species and oxidative damages of the skin.
- the document is addressed to environmental effects, it does not address the easy and effective removal of particulate matter after deposition from the air.
- the US2002/0192178 discloses a method for protecting the skin against the effects of pollution, comprising the application of a composition which contains an aqueous extract of maize.
- the extract of the invention is used as a heavy metal-scavening agent.
- the document does not address the easy and effective removal of particulate matter after deposition from the air.
- compositions which can be applied to the skin before the exposure to the particulate matter and which allow an easy and effective removal of the deposited material with water after exposure The application of conventional skin care products such as body lotions and creams usually results in the fact that particulate matter deposited on the treated section cannot easily be removed with tap water. In most cases it is necessary to use cleansing formulations including surfactants for an effective removal of the particulate matter. As a result surfactants are unnecessarily released into the sewage system causing higher efforts in the purification process before releasing the water back to the environment.
- a first object of the invention is the use of a polysaccharide gum to protect human skin from pollution, in particular from particulate matter.
- a further object of the present invention is the use of a polysaccharide gum in a cosmetic composition to condition human skin such that particulate matter, which is deposited onto the skin after application of the composition, can be rinsed off the skin with water.
- a further object of the invention is a method to protect the human skin from particulate matter and/or pollution involving the following steps i. application of a cosmetic composition comprising a polysaccharide gum to the human skin, ii. exposure of the skin to particulate matter from the environment, and iii. washing off the particulate matter deposited from the skin using pure tap water.
- a cosmetic composition comprising a polysaccharide gum to form a protective layer or protective barrier on the human skin, whereby the protective layer or barrier allows particulate matter, which is deposited onto the skin after application of the composition, to be rinsed off the skin with water.
- a further object of the invention is use of a polysaccharide gum in a cosmetic composition to form a protective layer or protective barrier on the human skin, whereby the protective layer or barrier allows particulate matter, which is deposited onto the skin after application of the composition, to be rinsed off the skin with water.
- a further object of the invention is use of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one polysaccharide gum to protect human skin from particulate matter upon application of the composition, whereby the polysaccharide gum allows particulate matter, which is deposited onto the skin after application of the composition, to be rinsed off the skin with water.
- a further object of the invention is use of a polysaccharide gum in a cosmetic composition to protect human skin from particulate matter upon application of the composition, whereby the polysaccharide gum allows particulate matter, which is deposited onto the skin after application of the composition, to be rinsed off the skin with water.
- normal conditions refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.
- the term “free from” means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.05% by weight. This ensures that entrainments or impurities with these substances are not included as “free from” according to the invention.
- skin refers solely to the human skin.
- Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "emulsifying agent”.
- Surfactants are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "surfactant”.
- polysaccharide gum is understood as a modified or nonmodified polysaccharides which are hydrocolloids and are water-soluble. They dissolve in and form intensive hydrogen bonds with water. Because of the size and configuration of their molecules, these polysaccharides have the ability to thicken and/or gel aqueous solutions as a result of both hydrogen bonding between polymer chains and intermolecular friction when subjected to shear. Gums dissolve in water through the formation of solvent-polymer hydrogen bonds; in solution, polymer molecules may arrange themselves into an ordered structure, called a micelle that is stabilized or fortified by intermolecular hydrogen bonds.
- the micelle traps and immobilizes water and, depending on the extent of the intermolecular association, the water is either thickened, as measured by a parameter called viscosity, or converted into a gel that possesses both liquid- and solid-like characteristics or viscoelasticity.
- polysaccharide gums are free from cross-linking agents.
- polysaccharide gums allow to form a protective layer or barrier on the human skin which allows particulate matter, which is deposited on that layer or barrier to be easily rinsed off with tab water.
- At least one polysaccharide gum is contained in a cosmetic composition in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.03 to 1% by weight and most preferably 0.05 to 0.6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- Preferred polysaccharide gums are xanthan gum, succinoglycan, sclerotium gum and/or gellan gum. More preferred are succinoglycan, sclerotium gum and/or gellan gum.
- the total quantity of succinoglycan, sclerotium gum and/or gellan gum is in the range from 0.01 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.03 to 1% by weight and most preferably 0.05 to 0.6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- polysaccharide gums according to the invention are different from xanthan gum. Further, it is preferred if the polysaccharide gums according to the invention are different from hydroxyethylcellulose.
- the polysaccharide gum is applied to the human skin by spreading it, in particular the composition comprising a polysaccharide gum, on the human skin.
- the polysaccharide gum is applied to the human skin by spraying it, in particular the composition comprising the polysaccharide gum, on the human skin.
- a cosmetic spray device is preferably used.
- the spray device is a hand held spray device, comprising: a body comprising a reservoir to house a total fill of material; an actuator comprising an actuator exit orifice; a valve in fluid communication with the actuator exit orifice and the reservoir; a propellant stored in the reservoir, the propellant having a concentration from 30% to 80% by weight of the total fill of materials stored within the reservoir and a cosmetic composition stored in the reservoir, whereby the cosmetic composition comprises the polysaccharide gum.
- the propellant is preferably selected from butane, propane, pentane and nitrogen.
- the cosmetic composition containing a polysaccharide gum is preferably applied using a pump spray device.
- the cosmetic composition containing at least one polysaccharide gum is an emulsion.
- Emulsions here in particular W/O, O/W or W/O/W emulsions, are often used as cosmetic or medical preparations.
- Emulsions are generally understood as meaning heterogeneous systems which comprise two liquids which are immiscible or only miscible with one another to a limited extent, which liquids are normally referred to as phases.
- one of the two liquids is dispersed in the other liquid in the form of very fine droplets.
- O/W emulsion oil in water emulsion
- the basic character of an O/W emulsion is determined by the water.
- W/O emulsion water-in-oil emulsion, e.g., butter
- the principle is reversed, the basic character here being determined by the oil.
- composition is an oil in water emulsion.
- the total quantity of the oil phase of the composition is in the range from 0.9 to 40% by weight, more preferably 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably 1.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1.2 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 12% by weight, more preferably from 1.8 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2.0 to 4.5% by weight and most preferably 2.2 bis 4.2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- the interfacial tension is the force which acts on an imaginary line one meter in length at the interface between two phases.
- the physical unit for this interfacial tension is conventionally calculated from the force/length relationship and is usually expressed in mN/m (millinewtons divided by meters). It has a positive sign if it tends to reduce the interface. In the converse case, it has a negative sign.
- oils are regarded as polar if their interfacial tension towards water is less than about 20 mN/m, and as nonpolar if their interfacial tension towards water is more than about 30 mN/m. Oils with an interfacial tension towards water between about 20 and about 30 mN/m are generally referred to as moderately polar.
- the composition comprises at least one oil having an interfacial tension towards water of less than 25 mN/m. Obviously, this oil is always situated in the oil phase according to the invention.
- the at least one oil which has an interfacial tension towards water of less than 25 mN/m, more preferably less than 20 mN/m, more preferably less than 15 mN/m and most preferably less than 10 mN/m.
- compositions which are also preferred, are characterized in that the composition does not contain an oil having interfacial tension towards water of more than 25 mN/m.
- oil contained in the composition is coco glycerides, PPG-15 stearyl ether and/or C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, whereby PPG-15 stearyl ether is most preferred.
- the total quantity of the oil, which has an interfacial tension towards water of less than 25 mN/m is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 4.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.3 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the total quantity of the oil, which has an interfacial tension towards water of less than 20 mN/m is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 4.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.3 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the total quantity of the coco glycerides, PPG-15 stearyl ether and/or C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 4.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.3 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the total quantity of the PPG-15 stearyl ether is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 4.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.3 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the total quantity of the coco glycerides is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 4.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.3 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the composition comprises a natural oil, in particular cocos nucifera oil.
- cocos nucifera oil is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of Cocos Nucifera Oil is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 4.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.3 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- emulsifier and surfactants are not calculated to the total quantity of the oil phase.
- preferred emulsifier are nonionic emulsifier. Although, basically all nonionic emulsifier can be contained in the composition of the invention, some emulsifiers were found to be particularly beneficial for the effect described.
- Preferred nonionic emulsifier are selected from oleth-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
- glyceryl stearate and/or glyceryl stearate SE are particularly preferred.
- the ratio of the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifier to the total quantity of the oil phase is in the range from 1 :1 to 1 :20, more preferably 1 : 1.1 to 1 : 18, more preferably 1 : 1.2 to 1 : 15 and most preferably 1 : 1.4 to 1 : 13.
- the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifier selected from oleth- 20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil to the total quantity of the oil phase is in the range from 1 : 1 to 1 :20, more preferably 1 : 1.1 to 1 : 18, more preferably 1 : 1.2 to 1 : 15 and most preferably 1 : 1.4 to 1 : 13.
- the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifier is in the range from 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight and most preferably 1.3 to 2.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- nonionic emulsifier selected from oleth-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil
- the total quantity of those nonionic emulsifier is in the range from 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight and most preferably 1.3 to 2.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- anionic emulsifier which is advantageously selected from the group of anionic emulsifier having a hlb value ranging from 8 to 18, in particular from 10 to 15.
- Preferred anionic emulsifier are selected from glyceryl stearate citrate, sodium cetearyl sulfate and glyceryl citrate.
- the total quantity of anionic emulsifier is in the range from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- the emulsifier used is not a fatty acid.
- Preferred compositions are characterized in that no fatty acid is contained.
- Fatty acids are primary acids comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
- oil phase of the composition comprises further oil and wax compounds, which are preferably characterized in that they have an interfacial tension towards water of at least 25 mN/m.
- oils of that group are paraffinum liquidum and silicone oils, in particular dimethicone.
- dimethicone is contained it is preferred if the total amount of dimethicone is limited to 3% by weight, more preferably to 2% by weight.
- a silicone oil is contained it is preferred if the total amount of silicone oils is limited to 3% by weight, more preferably to 2% by weight.
- An embodiment of the present invention that is advantageous according to the invention is characterized in that the composition is a sunscreen.
- Such an advantageous sunscreen typically offers a high sun protection factor (SPF), e.g. SPF 25.
- the UV filters are the substances that are known from Annex VI to Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council, including all changes and corrections made until November 1, 2017. Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council. The amendments and corrections can be found on the website http://eur-lex.europa.eu/homepage.html.
- the composition comprises preferably at least one organic UV filter.
- compositions according to the invention are advantageously characterized in that the composition comprises one or more organic UV-A filters selected from the group of the compounds 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane and 2- (4'-diethylamino-2 ' - hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester.
- organic UV-A filter compound 4- (tert-butyl) -4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane is used.
- the advantageous total use according to the invention for the organic UV-A filter in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane and/or 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'- hydroxybenzoyl) - benzoic acid hexyl ester, is/are from 1 to 5 weight -%, preferably 1.5 to 4.5% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the composition contains one or more organic UV filters selected from the group of the compounds 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid and/or salts thereof; phenylene-1,4-bis(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulphonic acid salts; 1,4-di(2-oxo- 10-sulpho-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzene and salts thereof; 4-(2-oxo-3- bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulphonic acid salts; 2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3- bornylidenemethyl)sulphonic acid salts; 2,2'-methylenebis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4- (1 , 1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol); 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[1 ,3,3,3
- the composition contains 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and I or salts thereof.
- the total quantity of those substances is preferably in the range from 1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 4.5% by weight and most preferably 2 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the composition comprises 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3- diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), whereby it is further preferred if the total quantity of this substance is in the range from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to 3.5% by weight based on the total composition.
- octocrylene 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3- diphenylacrylate
- some cosmetic compositions of the present invention are preferably free from inorganic UV-filter, especially free from zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. It is especially preferred, if the total quantity of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is less than 0.1% by weight and more preferably 0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition contains phenoxyethanol.
- the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is preferably in the range from 0.1 % by weight to 2% by weight and more preferably from 0.4% by weight to 1% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- preferred cosmetic compositions of the present invention are therein characterized that they contain ethylhexylglycerin, whereby it is further preferred if the total quantity of ethylhexylglycerin is in the range from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight. Furthermore, it is preferred if the cosmetic compositions do not contain an alkylparabene such as methyl parabene and/or butyl parabene.
- preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they contain ethanol.
- ethanol is contained in the compositions according to the invention, it if further preferred if the total quantity of ethanol is in the range from 2% by weight to 6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition comprises glycerol, whereby it is further preferred if the total quantity of glycerol is at least 2% by weight, more preferably at least 2.5% by weight, more preferably at least 3% by weight, more preferably at least 5% by weight, more preferably at least 6% by weight, more preferably at least 7% by weight, more preferably at least 8% by weight, more preferably at least 9% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight, more preferably at least 11 % by weight, more preferably at least 12% by weight; and whereby the total quantity of glycerol should not exceed 14% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition comprises at least behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and/or cetearyl alcohol.
- the total quantity of those substance is preferably in the range from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 2.2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- the total quantity of water is in the range from 40% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 68% to 93% by weight and most preferably from 70% to 89% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition may preferably contain at least one compound selected from the group of limonene, linalool, citral, alpha-isomethylionone and geraniol.
- Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the cosmetic composition contains as further ingredients one or more compounds selected from the group of the compounds alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and I or synthetic isoflavonoids, flavonoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine, p-alanine, tocopheryl acetate, dihydroxyacetone, glycyrrhetinic acid, 8-hexadecene-1 , 16-dicarboxylic acid, glycerylglycose, (2-hydroxyethyl) urea and I or licochalcone A.
- the cosmetic composition contains as further ingredients one or more compounds selected from the group of the compounds alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosyl
- preferred cosmetic compositions of the present invention are therein characterized that they have a viscosity in the range from 800 mPa s to 10000 mPa s, preferably 1500 mPa s to 8000 mPa s and most preferably 2000 mPa s to 6000 mPa s whereby the viscosity is measured using a Brookfield RV viscometer, spindle RV 4, 20 rpm without Helipath, at 20°C ambient temperature and 20°C sample temperature.
- the cosmetic composition has a pH value in the range from 4.5 to 8.
- xanthan gum and/or hydroxyethylcellulose are excluded.
- the polysaccharide gum is different from xanthan gum and/or hydroxyethylcellulose.
- the following methodology was applied to analyze the effective removal of particulate matter after conditioning the skin with a composition followed by the exposure of the skin to particulate matter.
- a group of participants has been selected for the study.
- the forearms of the participants were prepared by cleaning them with water, soap and ethanol. Afterwards several sections having a diameter of 2.5 cm were marked on the forearm. In each section 10 l of one of the emulsions was applied. 30 minutes after application an excessive amount of charcoal powder (vegetable charcoal, 90% below 9.4 pm diameter, 10% below 2.5 pm diameter) was sprinkled over the marked sections ensuring that all sections were fully covered. The excessive amount of charcoal was then removed by flipping the arm 10 times until no further charcoal fell off.
- charcoal powder vegetable charcoal, 90% below 9.4 pm diameter, 10% below 2.5 pm diameter
- the marked sections were washed by pouring water onto the sections for 10 seconds. Afterwards, the amount of removed charcoal was optically evaluated by an expert panel using a scale ranging from 0 to 100. A value of 100 stands for a full removal of the charcoal. A value of 0 is chosen if the level of charcoal remaining on the skin is equal or worse compared to a skin section on which no emulsion was applied, but which was treated with charcoal as described above.
- compositions are:
Landscapes
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
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- Dermatology (AREA)
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- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field.
Description
Protection against pollution by polysaccharide gums
The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a specific use of cosmetic ingredients allowing for an effective protection of the human skin from particulate matter by forming by protective layer or conditioning the skin in a way such that particulate matter does less adhere to the skin and can be washed away easily with tap water.
A beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people. One typical sign of such an appearance is a healthy and smooth looking skin. Therefore, in order to take care on the skin, it is for many people a daily routine to apply cosmetic products such as body lotions and sunscreen compositions.
For example, compositions containing UV-filters are commonly used to protect the skin from the ultraviolet radiation of the sunlight. In addition to the acute damage (sunburn), long-term damage such as an increased risk of skin cancer occurs in case of excessive irradiation with light from the UVB range (wavelength: 280-320 nm). The excessive exposure of UVB and UVA radiation (wavelength: 320-400 nm) also leads to a weakening of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue. This leads to numerous photo-toxic and photo- allergic reactions and results in premature skin ageing.
To protect the skin, a number of light protection filter substances have been developed, which can be used in cosmetic preparations. These UVA and UVB filters are grouped in the most developed countries in the form of positive lists such as Annex VI of the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.
However, besides the sunlight the human skin is also exposed to many other environmental factors. For example, in some global regions it is problematic that due to the environmental pollution the concentration of fine particulate matter in the air is high. The term particulate matter is understood as solid matter suspended in the earth’s atmosphere. Sources of particulate matter can be natural or anthropogenic.
A special kind of particulate matter are particles from smog, tabacco smoke and flying ash, which appearance may be caused by forest fires, smoking or the exhaust of engines. Such
particulate matter usually has a diameter in the range from 0.01 m to 100 pm, wherein smog and tobacco smoke typically cover the range from 0.01 pm to 2.5pm.
It is generally known that particulate matter, especially from smog and tobacco smoke, may adversely affect the human health. Inhalation of such particles may lead to an increased risk of lung cancer. However, high concentration of such particulate matter in the air also leads to an increased particle deposition on the skin. The correlation between high concentration of particulate matter in the air and the effect on the skin has recently been evaluated in a number of scientific studies.
For example, the disclosure “Premature skin aging by infrared radiation, tobacco smoke and ozone" by P. Schroder, S.M. Schieke and A. Morita (Skin Aging; Springer-Verlag; pp 45-55) discusses the effect of faster aging skin caused by tobacco smoke. Furthermore, a study by A. Vierkbtter, T. Schikowski, II. Ranft, D. Sugiri, M. Matsui, II. Kramer and J. Krutmann (Airborn Particle Exposure and Extrinsic Skin Aging, Journal of Investigative Dermatology 2010; 130; pp 2719-2726) indicated that the particle emission of engines may also correlate to a faster skin aging.
Cosmetic products are often used to protect the human skin from environmental effects. For example, the US2007/0003536 discloses a method for protecting human skin against oxidizing species and oxidative damages of the skin. Although the document is addressed to environmental effects, it does not address the easy and effective removal of particulate matter after deposition from the air.
Furthermore, the US2002/0192178 discloses a method for protecting the skin against the effects of pollution, comprising the application of a composition which contains an aqueous extract of maize. The extract of the invention is used as a heavy metal-scavening agent. However, the document does not address the easy and effective removal of particulate matter after deposition from the air.
Another example is the US patent application 2009/0035235, which describes a cosmetic composition that is capable of combating and preventing the effects of atmospheric pollution on the skin containing two vegetable extracts: Camellia sinensis (white tea) and Lapsana communis. The composition containing these two extracts exhibits an antiradical activity, provides protection against lipoperoxidation caused by exhaust gases and stimulates the mitochondrial respiration. Again, there is no disclosure in regard to an effective removal of particulate matter.
Looking at the state of the art, it can be noticed that there are a number of documents addressing pollution effects. However, it is pointed out that none of the cited documents addresses compositions which can be applied to the skin before the exposure to the particulate matter and which allow an easy and effective removal of the deposited material with water after exposure. The application of conventional skin care products such as body lotions and creams usually results in the fact that particulate matter deposited on the treated section cannot easily be removed with tap water. In most cases it is necessary to use cleansing formulations including surfactants for an effective removal of the particulate matter. As a result surfactants are unnecessarily released into the sewage system causing higher efforts in the purification process before releasing the water back to the environment.
Accordingly, there is a general need for methods to protect the human skin from particulate matter from the environment, in particular there is a need for formulations which can be used to precondition the skin such that particulate matter, which is deposited after application of the formulation to the skin, can be removed easier. It is in particular desirable to precondition the skin such that subsequently deposited particulate matter can be easily rinsed off with water.
It was surprisingly found by the application that the objectives can be met by the present invention.
A first object of the invention is the use of a polysaccharide gum to protect human skin from pollution, in particular from particulate matter.
A further object of the present invention is the use of a polysaccharide gum in a cosmetic composition to condition human skin such that particulate matter, which is deposited onto the skin after application of the composition, can be rinsed off the skin with water.
A further object of the invention is a method to protect the human skin from particulate matter and/or pollution involving the following steps i. application of a cosmetic composition comprising a polysaccharide gum to the human skin, ii. exposure of the skin to particulate matter from the environment, and iii. washing off the particulate matter deposited from the skin using pure tap water.
A further object of the invention is use of a cosmetic composition comprising a polysaccharide gum to form a protective layer or protective barrier on the human skin, whereby the protective layer or barrier allows particulate matter, which is deposited onto the skin after application of the composition, to be rinsed off the skin with water.
A further object of the invention is use of a polysaccharide gum in a cosmetic composition to form a protective layer or protective barrier on the human skin, whereby the protective layer or barrier allows particulate matter, which is deposited onto the skin after application of the composition, to be rinsed off the skin with water.
A further object of the invention is use of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one polysaccharide gum to protect human skin from particulate matter upon application of the composition, whereby the polysaccharide gum allows particulate matter, which is deposited onto the skin after application of the composition, to be rinsed off the skin with water.
A further object of the invention is use of a polysaccharide gum in a cosmetic composition to protect human skin from particulate matter upon application of the composition, whereby the polysaccharide gum allows particulate matter, which is deposited onto the skin after application of the composition, to be rinsed off the skin with water.
It was surprisingly noticed that the use and the method according to the invention allows for an easy and effective removal of particulate matter from the skin. In this way the human skin is protected from particulate matter which is deposited on the skin. Accordingly, the objectives of the present invention are solved.
All the weight percentages (% by weight) given below relate, unless otherwise stated, to the total weight of the cosmetic emulsion. If ratios of certain components are disclosed in the following description, these ratios refer, unless otherwise stated, to weight ratios of the components.
Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under “normal conditions”. The term "normal conditions" refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.
All disclosed values for the interfacial tension towards water relate to a temperature of 20°C. Furthermore, the disclosed values for the interfacial tension towards water relate to 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.
In the following description the terms ..according to the invention”, “preferred according to the invention” and so on are always directed to the use according to the invention, to the method according to the invention and to the cosmetic emulsion according to the invention.
For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term "free from" means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.05% by weight. This ensures that entrainments or impurities with these substances are not included as "free from" according to the invention.
The term “skin” refers solely to the human skin.
Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "emulsifying agent". Surfactants are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "surfactant".
The term “polysaccharide gum” is understood as a modified or nonmodified polysaccharides which are hydrocolloids and are water-soluble. They dissolve in and form intensive hydrogen bonds with water. Because of the size and configuration of their molecules, these polysaccharides have the ability to thicken and/or gel aqueous solutions as a result of both hydrogen bonding between polymer chains and intermolecular friction when subjected to shear. Gums dissolve in water through the formation of solvent-polymer hydrogen bonds; in solution, polymer molecules may arrange themselves into an ordered structure, called a micelle that is stabilized or fortified by intermolecular hydrogen bonds. The micelle traps and immobilizes water and, depending on the extent of the intermolecular association, the water is either thickened, as measured by a parameter called viscosity, or converted into a gel that possesses both liquid- and solid-like characteristics or viscoelasticity. Thus, polysaccharide gums are free from cross-linking agents.
Without being bound to the theory it is believed that polysaccharide gums allow to form a protective layer or barrier on the human skin which allows particulate matter, which is deposited on that layer or barrier to be easily rinsed off with tab water.
According to the invention, it is preferred if at least one polysaccharide gum is contained in a cosmetic composition in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 4% by weight, more preferably
0.03 to 1% by weight and most preferably 0.05 to 0.6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Preferred polysaccharide gums are xanthan gum, succinoglycan, sclerotium gum and/or gellan gum. More preferred are succinoglycan, sclerotium gum and/or gellan gum.
Accordingly, it is preferred if the total quantity of succinoglycan, sclerotium gum and/or gellan gum is in the range from 0.01 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.03 to 1% by weight and most preferably 0.05 to 0.6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Further, it is preferred if the polysaccharide gums according to the invention are different from xanthan gum. Further, it is preferred if the polysaccharide gums according to the invention are different from hydroxyethylcellulose.
According to the invention it is preferred if the polysaccharide gum is applied to the human skin by spreading it, in particular the composition comprising a polysaccharide gum, on the human skin. Alternatively, the polysaccharide gum is applied to the human skin by spraying it, in particular the composition comprising the polysaccharide gum, on the human skin.
For the case the polysaccharide gum is applied as spray, a cosmetic spray device is preferably used. In one embodiment the spray device is a hand held spray device, comprising: a body comprising a reservoir to house a total fill of material; an actuator comprising an actuator exit orifice; a valve in fluid communication with the actuator exit orifice and the reservoir; a propellant stored in the reservoir, the propellant having a concentration from 30% to 80% by weight of the total fill of materials stored within the reservoir and a cosmetic composition stored in the reservoir, whereby the cosmetic composition comprises the polysaccharide gum. The propellant is preferably selected from butane, propane, pentane and nitrogen.
In another embodiment the cosmetic composition containing a polysaccharide gum is preferably applied using a pump spray device.
Further it is preferred if the cosmetic composition containing at least one polysaccharide gum is an emulsion. Emulsions, here in particular W/O, O/W or W/O/W emulsions, are often used as cosmetic or medical preparations. Emulsions are generally understood as meaning heterogeneous systems which comprise two liquids which are immiscible or only miscible
with one another to a limited extent, which liquids are normally referred to as phases. In an emulsion, one of the two liquids is dispersed in the other liquid in the form of very fine droplets.
If the two liquids are water and oil and if oil droplets are finely distributed in water, then this is an oil in water emulsion (O/W emulsion, e.g., milk). The basic character of an O/W emulsion is determined by the water. In the case of a water-in-oil emulsion (W/O emulsion, e.g., butter), the principle is reversed, the basic character here being determined by the oil.
It is preferred if the composition is an oil in water emulsion.
According to the invention it is preferred if the total quantity of the oil phase of the composition is in the range from 0.9 to 40% by weight, more preferably 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably 1.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1.2 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 12% by weight, more preferably from 1.8 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2.0 to 4.5% by weight and most preferably 2.2 bis 4.2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
The interfacial tension is the force which acts on an imaginary line one meter in length at the interface between two phases. The physical unit for this interfacial tension is conventionally calculated from the force/length relationship and is usually expressed in mN/m (millinewtons divided by meters). It has a positive sign if it tends to reduce the interface. In the converse case, it has a negative sign. Generally, oils are regarded as polar if their interfacial tension towards water is less than about 20 mN/m, and as nonpolar if their interfacial tension towards water is more than about 30 mN/m. Oils with an interfacial tension towards water between about 20 and about 30 mN/m are generally referred to as moderately polar.
The following table indicates the interfacial tension towards water of a number of oils:
It is preferred if the composition comprises at least one oil having an interfacial tension towards water of less than 25 mN/m. Obviously, this oil is always situated in the oil phase according to the invention.
According to the invention it is preferred, if the at least one oil is contained which has an interfacial tension towards water of less than 25 mN/m, more preferably less than 20 mN/m, more preferably less than 15 mN/m and most preferably less than 10 mN/m.
Some embodiments, which are also preferred, are characterized in that the composition does not contain an oil having interfacial tension towards water of more than 25 mN/m.
It is particular preferred, if the oil contained in the composition is coco glycerides, PPG-15 stearyl ether and/or C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, whereby PPG-15 stearyl ether is most preferred.
According to the invention it is further preferred if the total quantity of the oil, which has an interfacial tension towards water of less than 25 mN/m is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 4.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.3 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention it is further preferred if the total quantity of the oil, which has an interfacial tension towards water of less than 20 mN/m is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 4.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.3 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention it is further preferred if the total quantity of the coco glycerides, PPG-15 stearyl ether and/or C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 4.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.3 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention it is further preferred if the total quantity of the PPG-15 stearyl ether is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 4.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.3 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention it is further preferred if the total quantity of the coco glycerides is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 4.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.3 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Further, it is preferred if the composition comprises a natural oil, in particular cocos nucifera oil. For the case that cocos nucifera oil is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of Cocos Nucifera Oil is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 4.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.3 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
It is noted that by definition emulsifier and surfactants are not calculated to the total quantity of the oil phase.
In one embodiment of the invention preferred emulsifier are nonionic emulsifier. Although, basically all nonionic emulsifier can be contained in the composition of the invention, some emulsifiers were found to be particularly beneficial for the effect described. Preferred nonionic emulsifier are selected from oleth-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
It is particularly preferred are glyceryl stearate and/or glyceryl stearate SE.
According to the invention it is preferred if the ratio of the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifier to the total quantity of the oil phase is in the range from 1 :1 to 1 :20, more preferably 1 : 1.1 to 1 : 18, more preferably 1 : 1.2 to 1 : 15 and most preferably 1 : 1.4 to 1 : 13.
In particular it is preferred if the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifier selected from oleth- 20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil to the total quantity of the oil phase is in the range from 1 : 1 to 1 :20, more preferably 1 : 1.1 to 1 : 18, more preferably 1 : 1.2 to 1 : 15 and most preferably 1 : 1.4 to 1 : 13.
For the case that at least one nonionic emulsifier is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifier is in the range from 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight and most preferably 1.3 to 2.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
For the case that at least one nonionic emulsifier selected from oleth-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those nonionic emulsifier is in the range from 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight and most preferably 1.3 to 2.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention it is also preferred, if at least one anionic emulsifier is contained, which is advantageously selected from the group of anionic emulsifier having a hlb value ranging from 8 to 18, in particular from 10 to 15.
Preferred anionic emulsifier are selected from glyceryl stearate citrate, sodium cetearyl sulfate and glyceryl citrate.
According to the invention it is preferred if the total quantity of anionic emulsifier is in the range from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Generally, it is preferred if the emulsifier used is not a fatty acid. Preferred compositions are characterized in that no fatty acid is contained. Fatty acids are primary acids comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
In addition, it is beneficial if the oil phase of the composition comprises further oil and wax compounds, which are preferably characterized in that they have an interfacial tension towards water of at least 25 mN/m. Preferred oils of that group are paraffinum liquidum and silicone oils, in particular dimethicone.
If dimethicone is contained it is preferred if the total amount of dimethicone is limited to 3% by weight, more preferably to 2% by weight.
If a silicone oil is contained it is preferred if the total amount of silicone oils is limited to 3% by weight, more preferably to 2% by weight.
An embodiment of the present invention that is advantageous according to the invention is characterized in that the composition is a sunscreen. Such an advantageous sunscreen typically offers a high sun protection factor (SPF), e.g. SPF 25.
According to the invention, the UV filters are the substances that are known from Annex VI to Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council, including all changes and corrections made until November 1, 2017. Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council. The amendments and corrections can be found on the website http://eur-lex.europa.eu/homepage.html.
The composition comprises preferably at least one organic UV filter.
Such sunscreen compositions according to the invention are advantageously characterized in that the composition comprises one or more organic UV-A filters selected from the group of the compounds 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane and 2- (4'-diethylamino-2 ' - hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester.
It is inventively preferred if the organic UV-A filter compound 4- (tert-butyl) -4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane is used.
The advantageous total use according to the invention for the organic UV-A filter, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane and/or 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'- hydroxybenzoyl) - benzoic acid hexyl ester, is/are from 1 to 5 weight -%, preferably 1.5 to 4.5% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the composition contains one or more organic UV filters selected from the group of the compounds 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid and/or salts thereof; phenylene-1,4-bis(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulphonic acid salts; 1,4-di(2-oxo- 10-sulpho-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzene and salts thereof; 4-(2-oxo-3- bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulphonic acid salts; 2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3- bornylidenemethyl)sulphonic acid salts; 2,2'-methylenebis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4- (1 , 1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol); 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[1 ,3,3,3- tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]disiloxanyl]propyl]phenol; 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor; 3-benzylidenecamphor; terephthalidenedicamphorsulphonic acid; 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3- diphenylacrylate; 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate; amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate;
di(2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate; 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate; isoamyl 4- methoxycinnamate; 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'- methylbenzophenone; 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; homomenthyl salicylate; 2- ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate; dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate; 3-(4-(2,2- bisethoxycarbonylvinyl)phenoxy)propenyl)methoxysiloxane/dimethylsiloxan e copolymer; dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone); 2,4-bis[5-1 (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1 ,3,5-triazine with (CAS No. 288254-16-0); tris(2-ethylhexyl) 4,4',4"-(1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6- triyltriimino)trisbenzoate (also: 2,4,6-tris[anilino(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1 ,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone); 2,4,6-tribiphenyl-4-yl-1 ,3,5-triazine; merocyanine.
It is inventively preferred if the composition contains 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and I or salts thereof. For the case that the composition contains 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5- sulfonic acid and I or salts the total quantity of those substances is preferably in the range from 1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 4.5% by weight and most preferably 2 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
It is further advantageous if the composition comprises 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3- diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), whereby it is further preferred if the total quantity of this substance is in the range from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to 3.5% by weight based on the total composition.
Moreover, some cosmetic compositions of the present invention are preferably free from inorganic UV-filter, especially free from zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. It is especially preferred, if the total quantity of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is less than 0.1% by weight and more preferably 0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention, it is further preferred if the cosmetic composition contains phenoxyethanol. In the case the cosmetic composition contains phenoxyethanol the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is preferably in the range from 0.1 % by weight to 2% by weight and more preferably from 0.4% by weight to 1% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Moreover, preferred cosmetic compositions of the present invention are therein characterized that they contain ethylhexylglycerin, whereby it is further preferred if the total quantity of ethylhexylglycerin is in the range from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight.
Furthermore, it is preferred if the cosmetic compositions do not contain an alkylparabene such as methyl parabene and/or butyl parabene.
In addition, preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they contain ethanol. In the case that ethanol is contained in the compositions according to the invention, it if further preferred if the total quantity of ethanol is in the range from 2% by weight to 6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Further, it is preferred if the composition comprises glycerol, whereby it is further preferred if the total quantity of glycerol is at least 2% by weight, more preferably at least 2.5% by weight, more preferably at least 3% by weight, more preferably at least 5% by weight, more preferably at least 6% by weight, more preferably at least 7% by weight, more preferably at least 8% by weight, more preferably at least 9% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight, more preferably at least 11 % by weight, more preferably at least 12% by weight; and whereby the total quantity of glycerol should not exceed 14% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Preferred embodiments of the invention are further characterized in that the composition comprises at least behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and/or cetearyl alcohol. In the case behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and/or cetearyl alcohol are contained, the total quantity of those substance is preferably in the range from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 2.2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Additionally, it is preferred according to the invention if the total quantity of water is in the range from 40% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 68% to 93% by weight and most preferably from 70% to 89% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention the cosmetic composition may preferably contain at least one compound selected from the group of limonene, linalool, citral, alpha-isomethylionone and geraniol.
Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the cosmetic composition contains as further ingredients one or more compounds selected from the group of the compounds alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and I or synthetic isoflavonoids, flavonoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine, p-alanine, tocopheryl
acetate, dihydroxyacetone, glycyrrhetinic acid, 8-hexadecene-1 , 16-dicarboxylic acid, glycerylglycose, (2-hydroxyethyl) urea and I or licochalcone A.
Additionally, preferred cosmetic compositions of the present invention are therein characterized that they have a viscosity in the range from 800 mPa s to 10000 mPa s, preferably 1500 mPa s to 8000 mPa s and most preferably 2000 mPa s to 6000 mPa s whereby the viscosity is measured using a Brookfield RV viscometer, spindle RV 4, 20 rpm without Helipath, at 20°C ambient temperature and 20°C sample temperature.
According to the invention it is further preferred if the cosmetic composition has a pH value in the range from 4.5 to 8.
According to the invention it is further preferred if the following composition is excluded from the invention
It is further preferred if xanthan gum and/or hydroxyethylcellulose are excluded. Thus, in this case the polysaccharide gum is different from xanthan gum and/or hydroxyethylcellulose.
Examples:
The following examples should illustrate the compositions of this invention, without intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
The following methodology was applied to analyze the effective removal of particulate matter after conditioning the skin with a composition followed by the exposure of the skin to particulate matter.
A group of participants has been selected for the study. The forearms of the participants were prepared by cleaning them with water, soap and ethanol. Afterwards several sections having
a diameter of 2.5 cm were marked on the forearm. In each section 10 l of one of the emulsions was applied. 30 minutes after application an excessive amount of charcoal powder (vegetable charcoal, 90% below 9.4 pm diameter, 10% below 2.5 pm diameter) was sprinkled over the marked sections ensuring that all sections were fully covered. The excessive amount of charcoal was then removed by flipping the arm 10 times until no further charcoal fell off.
To analyze the effectiveness of the removal of charcoal the marked sections were washed by pouring water onto the sections for 10 seconds. Afterwards, the amount of removed charcoal was optically evaluated by an expert panel using a scale ranging from 0 to 100. A value of 100 stands for a full removal of the charcoal. A value of 0 is chosen if the level of charcoal remaining on the skin is equal or worse compared to a skin section on which no emulsion was applied, but which was treated with charcoal as described above.
In some cases, it was waited until the sections were dry again and the procedure was repeated starting from the application of charcoal. These experiments were performed to evaluate if the charcoal can be removed repeatedly after a single application of the emulsion.
The experimental results are indicated in the following table containing example formulations. All formulations designated with Com. X are reference example not according to the invention, whereby X is an integer. All formulations designated with Inv. Y are examples according to the invention, whereby Y is an integer.
It is obvious from the table above that the use of a polysaccharide gum, respectively the use of a composition comprising a polysaccharide gum, allows the repetitive removal of particulate matter by rinsing the skin with water. The use of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, which is not a gum results in an adhesion of the particulate matter.
Further example compositions:
Claims
1. Use of a polysaccharide gum to protect the human skin from pollution, in particular from particulate matter; in a cosmetic composition to condition human skin such that particulate matter, which is deposited onto the skin after application of the composition, can be rinsed off the skin with water; in a cosmetic composition to form a protective layer or protective barrier on the human skin, whereby the protective layer or barrier allows particulate matter, which is deposited onto the skin after application of the composition, to be rinsed off the skin with water; and/or in a cosmetic composition to protect the human skin from particulate matter upon application of the composition, whereby the polysaccharide gum allows particulate matter, which is deposited onto the skin after application of the composition, to be rinsed off the skin with water.
2. Use of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one polysaccharide gum to form a protective layer or protective barrier on the human skin, whereby the protective layer or barrier allows particulate matter, which is deposited onto the skin after application of the composition, to be rinsed off the skin with water and/or to protect the human skin from particulate matter upon application of the composition, whereby the polysaccharide gum allows particulate matter, which is deposited onto the skin after application of the composition, to be rinsed off the skin with water.
3. Use according to claim 1 or 2 characterized in that at least one polysaccharide gum is contained in a cosmetic composition in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.03 to 1% by weight and most preferably 0.05 to 0.6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
4. Use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that polysaccharide gums are selected from xanthan gum, succinoglycan, sclerotium gum and/or gellan gum.
5. Use according to claim 4 characterized in that the total quantity of succinoglycan, sclerotium gum and/or gellan gum is in the range from 0.01 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.03 to 1 % by weight and most preferably 0.05 to 0.6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
6. Use according to one of the claims 1 to 3 characterized in that polysaccharide gum is different from xanthan gum and/or hydroxyethylcellulose.
Use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that that the composition comprises behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and/or cetearyl alcohol. Use according to claim 7 characterized in that the total quantity of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and/or cetearyl alcohol is in the range from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 2.2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. Use according to any proceeding claim characterized in that the composition is an oil in water emulsion. Use according to any proceeding claim characterized in that the total quantity of the oil phase of in the composition is in the range from 0.9 to 40% by weight, more preferably 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably 1.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1.2 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 12% by weight, more preferably from 1.8 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2.0 to 4.5% by weight and most preferably 2.2 bis 4.2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. Use according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition comprises at least one oil which has an interfacial tension towards water of less than 25 mN/m, more preferably less than 20 mN/m, more preferably less than 15 mN/m and most preferably less than 10 mN/m. Use according to claim 11 characterized in that the total quantity of the oil which has an interfacial tension towards water of less than 25 mN/m is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 4.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.3 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Use according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition comprises coco glycerides, PPG-15 stearyl ether and/or C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate. Use according to claim 13 characterized in that the total quantity of the coco glycerides, PPG-15 stearyl ether and/or C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 4.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.3 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Use according to any of the proceeding claims, characterized in that Cocos Nucifera Oil is contained, whereby it is preferred if the total quantity of coco nucifera oil is in the range from range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 4.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.3 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Use according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that at least one nonionic emulsifier selected from oleth-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is contained in the composition.
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| DE102021211194 | 2021-10-05 | ||
| DE102021211194.7 | 2021-10-05 |
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| WO2023057172A1 true WO2023057172A1 (en) | 2023-04-13 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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| PCT/EP2022/075282 WO2023057172A1 (en) | 2021-10-05 | 2022-09-12 | Protection against pollution by polysaccharide gums |
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| WO2024124012A1 (en) * | 2022-12-07 | 2024-06-13 | Cargill, Incorporated | Anti-pollution personal care products |
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