WO2023025800A1 - Sialyllactose and vitamin c comprising cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Sialyllactose and vitamin c comprising cosmetic composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023025800A1
WO2023025800A1 PCT/EP2022/073481 EP2022073481W WO2023025800A1 WO 2023025800 A1 WO2023025800 A1 WO 2023025800A1 EP 2022073481 W EP2022073481 W EP 2022073481W WO 2023025800 A1 WO2023025800 A1 WO 2023025800A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
sialyllactose
vitamin
range
derivative
ascorbyl
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PCT/EP2022/073481
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French (fr)
Inventor
Stephan DOPPLER
Lise Anne KOHLER
Christine Mendrok-Edinger
Original Assignee
Dsm Ip Assets B.V.
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Publication date
Application filed by Dsm Ip Assets B.V. filed Critical Dsm Ip Assets B.V.
Priority to CN202280057140.5A priority Critical patent/CN117835959A/en
Priority to EP22772426.7A priority patent/EP4392008A1/en
Publication of WO2023025800A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023025800A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/676Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising a Vitamin C derivative and at least one sialyllactose as well as to the use of a Vitamin C derivative thereof for suppressing discoloration in compositions comprising at least one sialyllactose.
  • Sialyllactoses are acidic human milk oligosaccharides (HMOs) comprising sialic acid (N-acetyl neuraminic acid) in their molecular structures. Sialyllactoses have been reported to be effective anti-viral and anti-bacterial agents. Furthermore, recent publications evidenced that 3'-sialyllactose and 6'-sialyllactose exhibit whitening and moisturizing activities in the skin. Thus, sialylated HMOs currently attract a lot of attention in the cosmetic industry. Sialyllactoses tend, however, to discolor in the presence of water and thus often lead to an unpleasant optical appearance of the final cosmetic products, which is highly unwanted by the end consumers.
  • HMOs acidic human milk oligosaccharides
  • sialic acid N-acetyl neuraminic acid
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising at least one sialyllactose and a Vitamin C derivative
  • the present invention relates to the use of a Vitamin C derivative for suppressing discoloration in compositions comprising at least one sialyllactose and optionally appreciating the effect.
  • the present invention relates to a method for reducing discoloration of compositions containing at least one sialyllactose, said method comprising preparing a composition comprising said sialyllactose, a Vitamin C derivative and a cosmetically acceptable carrier, which carrier preferably comprises water, and optionally storing the respective composition for at least 1 , more preferably for at least 2 weeks.
  • the invention relates to the use of a combination of a Vitamin C derivative and at least one sialyllactose for the preparation of storage stable topical composition.
  • These compositions exhibit an excellent storage stability in view of preventing/suppressing discoloration.
  • Said compositions can be prepared by admixing a Vitamin C and at least one sialyllactose into a cosmetically acceptable carrier, which carrier preferably comprises water.
  • compositions according to the present invention may comprise only one sialyllactose as well as only one Vitamin C derivative, which embodiment is preferred, but also may comprise mixtures of sialyllactoses as well mixtures of Vitamin C derivatives as defined herein.
  • suppress/ suppressing discoloration refers to a reduced discoloration of the composition according to the present invention compared to control.
  • the suppression of discoloration according to the present invention is reflected by reduced a-values (according to the Cl ELAB colorspace) compared to the respective control not comprising Vitamin C or a derivative thereof upon storage such as upon storage for at least 2 weeks at 50°C, at daylight in clear glass vials/ containers as outlined in the example.
  • Vitamin C derivatives refers to ascorbic acid derivatives, wherein preferably the ascorbic acid is in the L-form as well as the respective salts thereof.
  • Suitable salts of ascorbic acid derivatives according to the present invention include, sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, barium, ammonium (such as e.g. triethanolamine) and protamine salts.
  • sodium, magnesium, potassium and ammonium salts being preferred.
  • Ascorbic acid derivatives useful herein are well known to a person skilled in the art and include, for example, esters of ascorbic acid as well as ester salts of ascorbic acid as defined herein.
  • Particularly preferred ascorbic acid derivatives according to the present invention include 2-O-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid, which is an ester of ascorbic acid and glucose and usually referred to as L-ascorbic acid 2-glucoside or ascorbyl glucoside, and its metal salts such as sodium ascorbyl glucoside.
  • esters to be used according to the present invention are alkylesters of ascorbic acid such as in particular L-ascorbyl 6-palmitate and tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid.
  • ascorbyl phosphates are particularly suitable ascorbyl phosphates, wherein the term ascorbyl phosphates denotes metal salts of mono- and poly- phosphoric acid esters of ascorbic acid wherein the phosphorylated hydroxy group of the ascorbic acid molecule features one or more phosphoric acid (phosphate) units, and metal cations, e.g. sodium and/or magnesium or calcium ions, are also present.
  • the term “poly” generally denotes 2 - 10, preferably 2 - 4, phosphate units.
  • the ascorbyl phosphates may also be referred to in general as “ascorbyl (poly)phosphates” to embrace both mono- and polyphosphates.
  • Typical ascorbyl phosphates for use in the present invention are L-ascorbic acid phosphate ester salts such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, potassium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, calcium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-monophosphate.
  • the ascorbyl phosphates are essentially present in the form of a hydrate or a dihydrate.
  • ascorbyl phosphates comprise trisodium L-ascorbyl-2-monophosphate which is available as STAY-C®50 from DSM Nutritional Products AG, (4303 Kaiseraugst, Switzerland) and magnesium L-ascorbyl phosphate (available from Showa Denko) and sodium magnesium L- ascorbyl-2-monophosphate.
  • Preferred ascorbyl phosphates for all the purposes of the present invention are sodium or sodium magnesium or sodium calcium ascorbyl phosphate as well as mixtures thereof. Most preferred in all embodiments of the present invention is the use of trisodium L-ascorbyl-2-monophosphate dihydrate.
  • the Vitamin C derivative is selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid respectively a salt thereof, ascorbyl glucosides and/ or ascorbyl phosphates, more preferably from ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbate, potassium ascorbate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate as well as any mixture thereof, most preferably from ascorbic acid and/ or trisodium L-ascorbyl-2-monophosphate dihydrate.
  • the (total) amount of the Vitamin C derivative in the compositions according to the present invention is selected in the range from 0.001 to 50 wt. %, preferably from 0.01 to 20 wt. %, most preferably from 0.1 to 15 wt. %, such as e.g. from 0.1 to 10 wt- %, from 0.5 to 10 wt.-%, from 0.5 to 7.5 wt.-%, from 0.5 to 5 wt.-% or from 1 to 5 wt.- %, based on the total weight of the composition. Further suitable ranges encompass from 0.1 to 5 wt.-%, from 0.5 to 3 wt.-% as well as from 1 to 3 wt.-%.
  • sialyllactoses according to the present invention are 3’sialyllactose (3’SL) and 6’ sialyllactose (6’SL) as well as salts thereof such as in particular the respective sodium salts (CAS Nos: 35890-39-2 (3’sialyllactose); 128596- 80-5 (3’sialyllactose sodium salt); 35890-39-2 (6’sialyllactose); 157574-76-0 (6’sialyllactose sodium salt)).
  • Sialyllactoses can be isolated from breast milk or they can be produced chemically or biochemically.
  • the source of the sialyllactose is not essential. It is clear that sialyllactoses from different sources can be used.
  • the sialyllactose is selected from the group consisting of 3’sialyllactose sodium salt and 6'sialyllactose sodium salt as well as mixtures thereof.
  • the total amount of sialyllactose(s) in the compositions according to the present invention is preferably selected in the range from 0.01 to 10 wt.-%, more preferably in the range from 0. 1 to 7.5 wt.-%, most preferably in the range from 0.2 to 5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition. Further suitable ranges are from 0.25 to 2.5 wt.-%, from 0.5 to 2 wt.-%, from 0.1 to 1 wt.-%, from 0.25 to 0.75 wt.-% and from 0.3 to 0.6 wt.-%. Particularly preferred ranges according to the present invention are from 0.1 to 5 wt.-%, more preferably from 0.25 to 5 wt.-%, such as from 0.3 to 5 wt.-%.
  • the use level (in weight-%) of sialyllactose is higher than the one of the Vitamin C derivative i.e. the sialyllactose is used in an excess.
  • the use level (in weight- %) of sialyllactose is lower than the one of the Vitamin C derivative i.e. the Vitamin C derivatie is used in an excess.
  • the weightratio (w/w) between the sialyllactose(s) and the Vitamin C derivative is selected in the range from 50:1 to 1 :10 or 50:1 to 1 :1 , more preferably in the range from 25:1 to 1 :5 or from 25: 1 to 1 :1 , most preferably in the range from 15:1 to 1 :5 or from 15:1 to 5:1. Further preferred ranges are from 10:1 to 7.5:1 , from 10:1 to 5:1 , from 10:1 to 2:1 , from 10:1 to 1 :10, from 10:1 to 1 :5, from 5:1 to 1 :10, and from 5:1 to 1 :5.
  • cosmetic composition refers to cosmetic compositions which are used to treat, care for or improve the appearance of the skin and/or the scalp.
  • compositions preferably are aqueous compositions, i.e. compositions which comprise water.
  • the water content in the compositions according to the present invention is selected in the range from 30 to 90 wt.-%, preferably from 40 to 90 wt.-%, more preferably from 45 to 90 wt.-%, most preferably from 50 to 90 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition. Further suitable ranges are from 30 to 75 wt.-%, from 30 to 70 wt.-%, from 30 to 60 wt.-% and from 40 to 60 wt.-%.
  • compositions according to the present invention are cosmetic compositions intended to be topically applied to mammalian keratinous tissue such as in particular to human skin or the human scalp.
  • Such compositions are also called dermatological compositions.
  • the cosmetic compositions are topical cosmetic (i.e. dermatological) compositions with all the definitions and preferences as given herein.
  • the topical cosmetic compositions according to the present invention may be leave- on or rinse-off compositions, and include any product applied to a human body, primarily for improving appearance, cleansing, odor control or general aesthetics.
  • the topical cosmetic compositions of the present invention are leave-on compositions.
  • compositions according to the invention intended for topical application comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium compatible with keratinous substances, such as the skin, mucous membranes, and keratinous fibers.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • the carrier comprises water.
  • cosmetically respectively dermatologically acceptable carrier refers to all vehicles/ carriers conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, i.e. which are suitable for topical application to the keratinous tissue, have good aesthetic properties, are compatible with the actives present in the composition, and will not cause any unreasonable safety or toxicity concerns.
  • Such carriers are well-known to one of ordinary skill in the art, and can include one or more compatible liquid(s) or solid filler diluent(s), excipient(s), additive(s) or vehicle(s) which are suitable for application to skin.
  • compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 50% to about 99.999%, more preferably from about 60% to about 99.99%, still more preferably from 75% to about 99%, and most preferably, from about 80% to about 98% such as about 90% to about 98%, by weight of the composition, of a carrier, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the carrier consists furthermore of at least 30 wt. %, more preferably of at least 40 wt.-%, most preferably of at least 45 wt.-% of water, such as in particular of 50 to 90 wt.-% of water.
  • the cosmetic compositions in accordance with the invention can be in the form of a liquid, lotion, a thickened lotion, a gel, a cream, a milk, an ointment, a paste, a powder, a make-up, or a solid tube stick and can be optionally be packaged as an aerosol and can be provided in the form of a mousse such as an aerosol mousse, a foam or a spray foam, a spray, a stick.
  • Vitamin C derivative and the respective HMO(s) are formulated into lotions, creams, gels, and tonics.
  • These product forms may be used for a number of applications, including, but not limited to, hand and body lotions, facial moisturizers, anti-ageing preparations, make-ups including foundations, and the like. Any additional components required to formulate such products vary with product type and can be routinely chosen by one skilled in the art.
  • compositions of the present invention are formulated as an aerosol and applied to the skin as a spray-on product, a propellant is added to the composition.
  • compositions according to the present invention can be prepared by conventional methods in the art such as e.g. by admixing the Vitamin C derivative and the respective sialyllactose(s) with all the definitions and preferences given herein with the cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • the cosmetic composition may comprise further ingredients, which may form part of the carrier.
  • ingredients are particularly surfactants, emulsifiers, thickeners, and oils.
  • surfactants, emulsifiers, thickeners, and oils are well known to a person skilled in the art.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention may comprise further conventional (cosmetic) adjuvants and additives, such as preservatives/antioxidants, fatty substances/oils, water, organic solvents, silicones, thickeners, softeners, emulsifiers, antifoaming agents, aesthetic components such as fragrances, surfactants, fillers, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents, dyes, colorings/colorants, abrasives, absorbents, chelating agents and/ or sequestering agents, essential oils, skin sensates, astringents, pigments or any other ingredients usually formulated into such compositions.
  • cosmetic adjuvants and additives such as preservatives/antioxidants, fatty substances/oils, water, organic solvents, silicones, thickeners, softeners, emulsifiers, antifoaming agents, aesthetic components such as fragrances, surfactants, fillers, anionic
  • compositions according to the present invention are suitable for the compositions according to the present invention.
  • the necessary amounts of the cosmetic and dermatological adjuvants and additives can, based on the desired product, easily be determined by the skilled person.
  • the additional ingredients can either be added to the oily phase, the aqueous phase or separately as deemed appropriate.
  • the mode of addition can easily be adapted by a person skilled in the art.
  • cosmetic excipients examples include cosmetic excipients, diluents, adjuvants, additives as well as active ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry which are suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are for example described in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook by Personal Care Product Council (http://www.personalcarecouncil.org/), accessible by the online INFO BASE (http://online.personalcarecouncil.org/jsp/Home.jsp), without being limited thereto.
  • the cosmetically active ingredients useful herein can in some instances provide more than one benefit or operate via more than one mode of action.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are in particular skin care preparations, functional preparations and/or hair care preparations such as most in particularly skin or hair care preparations.
  • Examples of skin care preparations are, in particular, light protective preparations (sun care preparations), anti-ageing preparations, preparations for the treatment of photoageing, body oils, body lotions, body gels, treatment creams, skin protection ointments, moisturizing preparations such as moisturizing gels or moisturizing sprays, face and/or body moisturizers, make-up as well as skin lightening preparations.
  • light protective preparations unsun care preparations
  • anti-ageing preparations preparations for the treatment of photoageing
  • body oils body lotions, body gels, treatment creams, skin protection ointments
  • moisturizing preparations such as moisturizing gels or moisturizing sprays
  • face and/or body moisturizers make-up as well as skin lightening preparations.
  • Examples of functional preparations are cosmetic compositions containing active ingredients such as hormone preparations, vitamin preparations, vegetable extract preparations, anti-ageing preparations, and/or antimicrobial (antibacterial or antifungal) preparations without being limited thereto.
  • hair care preparations which are suitable according to the invention and which may be mentioned are shampoos, hair conditioners (also referred to as hair rinses), hairdressing compositions, hair tonics, hair regenerating compositions, hair lotions, water wave lotions, hair sprays, hair creams, hair gels, hair oils, hair pomades or hair brilliantines. Accordingly, these are always preparations which are applied to the hair and the scalp for a shorter or longer time depending on the actual purpose for which they are used.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are emulsions and/or gels. Even more preferably, the cosmetic compositions are emulsions which contain an oily phase and an aqueous phase such as in particular O/W, W/O, Si/W, W/Si, O/W/O, W/O/W multiple or a pickering emulsions.
  • the amount of the oily phase (i.e. the phase containing all oils and fats including the polar oils) present in such emulsions such as in particular O/W, W/O, Si/W, W/Si, O/W/O, W/O/W multiple or a pickering emulsions is preferably at least 10 wt.-%, such as in the range from 10 to 60 wt.-%, preferably in the range from 15 to 50 wt.-%, most preferably in the range from 15 to 40 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the oil phase according to the invention preferably comprises oils selected from butylenglykoldicaprylatAdicaprat, propylenglykoldicaprylatZ-dicaprat, dicaprylylether, C s-Alkylbenzoat, Cis-ss-fatty acid triglyceride, dibutyladipate, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, 2-phenylethylbenzoat, isopropyl lauroyl sarkosinate, caprylic/ capric triglyceride as well as mixtures thereof.
  • oils selected from butylenglykoldicaprylatAdicaprat, propylenglykoldicaprylatZ-dicaprat, dicaprylylether, C s-Alkylbenzoat, Cis-ss-fatty acid triglyceride, dibutyladipate, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, 2-phenylethylbenzoat, isopropyl lauroyl
  • the amount of the aqueous phase present in such emulsions is preferably at least 20 wt.-%, such as in the range from 20 to 90 wt.-%, preferably in the range from 30 to 80 wt.-%, most preferably in the range from 30 to 70 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the ratio of oily phase to aqueous phase is selected in the range of 40:60 to 30 to 70.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O/W emulsifier.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • the preparation of such O/W emulsions is well known to a person skilled in the art.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is an O/W emulsion
  • it contains advantageously at least one O/W- or Si/W-emulsifier selected from the list of, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate SE (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, salts of stearic acid, polyglyceryl-3-methylglycosedistearate.
  • O/W- or Si/W-emulsifiers selected from the list of, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate SE (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, salts of stearic acid, polyglyceryl-3-methylglycosedistearate.
  • phosphate esters and the salts thereof such as cetyl phosphate (e.g. as Amphisol® A from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.), diethanolamine cetyl phosphate (e.g.
  • emulsifiers are sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, cetearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sucrose polystearate and hydrated polyisobutene.
  • one or more synthetic polymers may be used as an emulsifier. For example, PVP eicosene copolymer, acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one O/W, respectively Si/W emulsifier is preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 10 wt. %, in particular in the range of 0.5 to 6 wt.-%, such as more in particular in the range of 0.5 to 5 wt.-%, such as most in particular in the range of 1 to 4 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Particular suitable O/W emulsifiers to be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention encompass phosphate ester emulsifiers such as advantageously 8-10 alkyl ethyl phosphate, 09-15 alkyl phosphate, ceteareth-2 phosphate, ceteareth-5 phosphate, ceteth-8 phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, cetyl phosphate, C6-10 pareth- 4 phosphate, C12-15 pareth-2 phosphate, C12-15 pareth-3 phosphate, DEA- ceteareth-2 phosphate, DEA-cetyl phosphate, DEA-oleth-3 phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, deceth-4 phosphate, deceth-6 phosphate and trilaureth-4 phosphate.
  • phosphate ester emulsifiers such as advantageously 8-10 alkyl ethyl phosphate, 09-15 alkyl phosphate, ceteareth-2 phosphate, ceteareth-5
  • a particular suitable O/W emulsifier to be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is potassium cetyl phosphate e.g. commercially available as Amphisol® K at DSM Nutritional Products Ltd Kaiseraugst.
  • O/W emulsifiers are non-ionic self-emulsifying systems derived from olive oil e.g. known as (INCI Name) cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate (chemical composition: sorbitan ester and cetearyl ester of olive oil fatty acids) sold under the tradename OLIVEM 1000.
  • the invention relates to cosmetic compositions with all the definitions and preferences given herein in the form of O/W emulsions comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O/W emulsifier wherein the O/W emulsifier is potassium cetyl phosphate.
  • the amount of oily phase in such O/W emulsions is preferably at least 10 wt.-%, more preferably in the range of 10 to 60 wt.-%, most preferably in the range of 15 to 50 wt.-%, such as in the range of 15 to 40 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention further comprise at least one fatty alcohol (co-emulsifier), such as in particular cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and/ or behenyl alcohol.
  • fatty alcohol co-emulsifier
  • the total amount of one or several fatty alcohols on the topical compositions according to the invention is preferably selected in the range of about 0.1 to 10.0 wt.-%, in particular in the range of about 0.5 to 6.0 wt.-% with respect to the total weight of the topical composition.
  • the topical compositions according to the invention comprise a thickener in particular if the topical composition is in the form of an emulsion to assist in making the consistency of a product suitable.
  • Preferred thickeners are aluminiumsilicates, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, polyacrylates such as carbopole® (e.g. Carbopole 980, 981 , 1382, 2984, 5984) or mixtures thereof.
  • Further preferred thickeners encompass acrylate/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate copolymers (such as e.g. Pemulen TR 1 , Pemulen TR 2, Carbopol 1328 by.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention advantageously comprise a preservative.
  • the preservative is preferably used in an amount of 0.1 to 2 wt.-%, more preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 1 .5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in general have a pH in the range of 3 to 10, preferably a pH in the range of 3 to 8 and most preferably a pH in the range of 3 to 7.5 such as in the range of 3 to 6.5.
  • the pH can easily be adjusted as desired with suitable acids, such as e.g. citric acid, or bases, such as sodium hydroxide (e.g. as aqueous solution), triethanolamine (TEA Care), Tromethamine (Trizma Base) and Aminomethyl Propanol (AMP-Ultra PC 2000), according to standard methods in the art. It is well understood, that ascorbic acid may be present in the composition as a salt, dependent on the final pH of the composition.
  • compositions according to the present invention are free of any parabenes, benzethoniumchlorid, piroctone olamine, lauroylarginat, methylisothiazolinon, chlormethylisothiazolinon, bronopol, benzalkoniumchloride, formaldehyd releasing compounds, salicylic acid, triclosan, DMDM hydantoin, chlorphenesin and IPBC (lodopropinylbutyl carbamate), such as in particular free of methylchloroisothiazolinone.
  • the amount of the cosmetic composition to be applied to the skin is not critical and can easily be adjusted by a person skilled in the art.
  • the amount is selected in the range of 0.1 to 3 mg/cm 2 skin, such as preferably in the range of 0.1 to 2 mg/cm 2 skin and most preferably in the range of 0.5 to 2 mg/cm 2 skin.
  • the pH of the formulation was adjusted to approx. 3 with citric acid

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Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising a Vitamin C derivative and at least one sialyllactose as well as to the use of a Vitamin C derivative thereof for suppressing discoloration in compositions comprising at least one sialyllactose.

Description

SIALYLLACTOSE AND VITAMIN C COMPRISING COSMETIC COMPOSITION
The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising a Vitamin C derivative and at least one sialyllactose as well as to the use of a Vitamin C derivative thereof for suppressing discoloration in compositions comprising at least one sialyllactose.
Sialyllactoses are acidic human milk oligosaccharides (HMOs) comprising sialic acid (N-acetyl neuraminic acid) in their molecular structures. Sialyllactoses have been reported to be effective anti-viral and anti-bacterial agents. Furthermore, recent publications evidenced that 3'-sialyllactose and 6'-sialyllactose exhibit whitening and moisturizing activities in the skin. Thus, sialylated HMOs currently attract a lot of attention in the cosmetic industry. Sialyllactoses tend, however, to discolor in the presence of water and thus often lead to an unpleasant optical appearance of the final cosmetic products, which is highly unwanted by the end consumers.
Thus, there is an ongoing need for agents, which suppress the discoloration of sialyllactoses in aqueous media to foster the incorporation of sialyllactoses into cosmetic applications.
In accordance with the present invention it has now surprisingly been found that discoloration of sialyllactoses can be effectively reduced by the addition of certain Vitamin C derivatives.
Thus, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising at least one sialyllactose and a Vitamin C derivative
In a second aspect the present invention relates to the use of a Vitamin C derivative for suppressing discoloration in compositions comprising at least one sialyllactose and optionally appreciating the effect.
In a third aspect, the present invention relates to a method for reducing discoloration of compositions containing at least one sialyllactose, said method comprising preparing a composition comprising said sialyllactose, a Vitamin C derivative and a cosmetically acceptable carrier, which carrier preferably comprises water, and optionally storing the respective composition for at least 1 , more preferably for at least 2 weeks.
In a further aspect the invention relates to the use of a combination of a Vitamin C derivative and at least one sialyllactose for the preparation of storage stable topical composition. These compositions exhibit an excellent storage stability in view of preventing/suppressing discoloration. Said compositions can be prepared by admixing a Vitamin C and at least one sialyllactose into a cosmetically acceptable carrier, which carrier preferably comprises water.
It is well understood, that the compositions according to the present invention may comprise only one sialyllactose as well as only one Vitamin C derivative, which embodiment is preferred, but also may comprise mixtures of sialyllactoses as well mixtures of Vitamin C derivatives as defined herein.
The term ‘supress/ suppressing discoloration’ as used herein refers to a reduced discoloration of the composition according to the present invention compared to control. The suppression of discoloration according to the present invention is reflected by reduced a-values (according to the Cl ELAB colorspace) compared to the respective control not comprising Vitamin C or a derivative thereof upon storage such as upon storage for at least 2 weeks at 50°C, at daylight in clear glass vials/ containers as outlined in the example.
The term ‘Vitamin C derivatives’ as used herein refers to ascorbic acid derivatives, wherein preferably the ascorbic acid is in the L-form as well as the respective salts thereof.
The term ‘derivative’ as used here is to be understood based on the definition in the Rbmpp's Chemistry Lexicon referring to a chemical compound that can be represented by original compound, e.g. by structurally changing a functional group in usually only a single reaction step (derivatization). A compound and its derivative are accordingly structurally closely related. Said term is clear to a person skilled in the art.
Suitable salts of ascorbic acid derivatives according to the present invention include, sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, barium, ammonium (such as e.g. triethanolamine) and protamine salts. Sodium, magnesium, potassium and ammonium salts being preferred.
Ascorbic acid derivatives useful herein are well known to a person skilled in the art and include, for example, esters of ascorbic acid as well as ester salts of ascorbic acid as defined herein.
Particularly preferred ascorbic acid derivatives according to the present invention include 2-O-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid, which is an ester of ascorbic acid and glucose and usually referred to as L-ascorbic acid 2-glucoside or ascorbyl glucoside, and its metal salts such as sodium ascorbyl glucoside.
Further suitable esters to be used according to the present invention are alkylesters of ascorbic acid such as in particular L-ascorbyl 6-palmitate and tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid.
Further particularly suitable ascorbic acid derivatives according to the present invention are the ascorbyl phosphates, wherein the term ascorbyl phosphates denotes metal salts of mono- and poly- phosphoric acid esters of ascorbic acid wherein the phosphorylated hydroxy group of the ascorbic acid molecule features one or more phosphoric acid (phosphate) units, and metal cations, e.g. sodium and/or magnesium or calcium ions, are also present. The term “poly” generally denotes 2 - 10, preferably 2 - 4, phosphate units. The ascorbyl phosphates may also be referred to in general as “ascorbyl (poly)phosphates” to embrace both mono- and polyphosphates. Typical ascorbyl phosphates for use in the present invention are L-ascorbic acid phosphate ester salts such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, potassium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, calcium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-monophosphate. The ascorbyl phosphates are essentially present in the form of a hydrate or a dihydrate. Commercially available ascorbyl phosphates comprise trisodium L-ascorbyl-2-monophosphate which is available as STAY-C®50 from DSM Nutritional Products AG, (4303 Kaiseraugst, Switzerland) and magnesium L-ascorbyl phosphate (available from Showa Denko) and sodium magnesium L- ascorbyl-2-monophosphate. Preferred ascorbyl phosphates for all the purposes of the present invention are sodium or sodium magnesium or sodium calcium ascorbyl phosphate as well as mixtures thereof. Most preferred in all embodiments of the present invention is the use of trisodium L-ascorbyl-2-monophosphate dihydrate. Preferably in all embodiments of the present invention, the Vitamin C derivative is selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid respectively a salt thereof, ascorbyl glucosides and/ or ascorbyl phosphates, more preferably from ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbate, potassium ascorbate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate as well as any mixture thereof, most preferably from ascorbic acid and/ or trisodium L-ascorbyl-2-monophosphate dihydrate.
Preferably, the (total) amount of the Vitamin C derivative in the compositions according to the present invention is selected in the range from 0.001 to 50 wt. %, preferably from 0.01 to 20 wt. %, most preferably from 0.1 to 15 wt. %, such as e.g. from 0.1 to 10 wt- %, from 0.5 to 10 wt.-%, from 0.5 to 7.5 wt.-%, from 0.5 to 5 wt.-% or from 1 to 5 wt.- %, based on the total weight of the composition. Further suitable ranges encompass from 0.1 to 5 wt.-%, from 0.5 to 3 wt.-% as well as from 1 to 3 wt.-%.
Particularly preferred sialyllactoses according to the present invention are 3’sialyllactose (3’SL) and 6’ sialyllactose (6’SL) as well as salts thereof such as in particular the respective sodium salts (CAS Nos: 35890-39-2 (3’sialyllactose); 128596- 80-5 (3’sialyllactose sodium salt); 35890-39-2 (6’sialyllactose); 157574-76-0 (6’sialyllactose sodium salt)).
Sialyllactoses can be isolated from breast milk or they can be produced chemically or biochemically.
For the purpose of the present invention the source of the sialyllactose is not essential. It is clear that sialyllactoses from different sources can be used.
Preferably in all embodiments of the present invention the sialyllactose is selected from the group consisting of 3’sialyllactose sodium salt and 6'sialyllactose sodium salt as well as mixtures thereof.
The total amount of sialyllactose(s) in the compositions according to the present invention is preferably selected in the range from 0.01 to 10 wt.-%, more preferably in the range from 0. 1 to 7.5 wt.-%, most preferably in the range from 0.2 to 5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition. Further suitable ranges are from 0.25 to 2.5 wt.-%, from 0.5 to 2 wt.-%, from 0.1 to 1 wt.-%, from 0.25 to 0.75 wt.-% and from 0.3 to 0.6 wt.-%. Particularly preferred ranges according to the present invention are from 0.1 to 5 wt.-%, more preferably from 0.25 to 5 wt.-%, such as from 0.3 to 5 wt.-%.
In one embodiments of the present invention, preferably the use level (in weight-%) of sialyllactose is higher than the one of the Vitamin C derivative i.e. the sialyllactose is used in an excess.
In another embodiments of the present invention, preferably the use level (in weight- %) of sialyllactose is lower than the one of the Vitamin C derivative i.e. the Vitamin C derivatie is used in an excess.
Accordingly, in all embodiments of the present invention, it is preferred that the weightratio (w/w) between the sialyllactose(s) and the Vitamin C derivative is selected in the range from 50:1 to 1 :10 or 50:1 to 1 :1 , more preferably in the range from 25:1 to 1 :5 or from 25: 1 to 1 :1 , most preferably in the range from 15:1 to 1 :5 or from 15:1 to 5:1. Further preferred ranges are from 10:1 to 7.5:1 , from 10:1 to 5:1 , from 10:1 to 2:1 , from 10:1 to 1 :10, from 10:1 to 1 :5, from 5:1 to 1 :10, and from 5:1 to 1 :5.
The term ‘cosmetic composition’ as used herein refers to cosmetic compositions which are used to treat, care for or improve the appearance of the skin and/or the scalp.
In all embodiments according to the present invention including all compositions, methods and uses as disclosed herein, the compositions preferably are aqueous compositions, i.e. compositions which comprise water.
Advantageously, in all embodiments of the present invention the water content in the compositions according to the present invention is selected in the range from 30 to 90 wt.-%, preferably from 40 to 90 wt.-%, more preferably from 45 to 90 wt.-%, most preferably from 50 to 90 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition. Further suitable ranges are from 30 to 75 wt.-%, from 30 to 70 wt.-%, from 30 to 60 wt.-% and from 40 to 60 wt.-%.
In a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the present invention are cosmetic compositions intended to be topically applied to mammalian keratinous tissue such as in particular to human skin or the human scalp. Such compositions are also called dermatological compositions. Thus, preferably in all embodiments of the present invention the cosmetic compositions are topical cosmetic (i.e. dermatological) compositions with all the definitions and preferences as given herein.
The topical cosmetic compositions according to the present invention may be leave- on or rinse-off compositions, and include any product applied to a human body, primarily for improving appearance, cleansing, odor control or general aesthetics. Preferably the topical cosmetic compositions of the present invention are leave-on compositions.
It is well understood that the cosmetic compositions according to the invention intended for topical application comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium compatible with keratinous substances, such as the skin, mucous membranes, and keratinous fibers. In particular, the physiologically acceptable medium is a cosmetically acceptable carrier. In all embodiments of the present invention it is preferred that the carrier comprises water.
The term ‘cosmetically respectively dermatologically acceptable carrier’ (also referred to herein as carrier) refers to all vehicles/ carriers conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, i.e. which are suitable for topical application to the keratinous tissue, have good aesthetic properties, are compatible with the actives present in the composition, and will not cause any unreasonable safety or toxicity concerns. Such carriers are well-known to one of ordinary skill in the art, and can include one or more compatible liquid(s) or solid filler diluent(s), excipient(s), additive(s) or vehicle(s) which are suitable for application to skin.
The exact amount of carrier will depend upon the actual level of the active ingredients and of any other optional ingredients that one of ordinary skill in the art would classify as distinct from the carrier (e.g., other active ingredients).
The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 50% to about 99.999%, more preferably from about 60% to about 99.99%, still more preferably from 75% to about 99%, and most preferably, from about 80% to about 98% such as about 90% to about 98%, by weight of the composition, of a carrier, based on the total weight of the composition. In a particular advantageous embodiment, the carrier consists furthermore of at least 30 wt. %, more preferably of at least 40 wt.-%, most preferably of at least 45 wt.-% of water, such as in particular of 50 to 90 wt.-% of water.
The cosmetic compositions in accordance with the invention can be in the form of a liquid, lotion, a thickened lotion, a gel, a cream, a milk, an ointment, a paste, a powder, a make-up, or a solid tube stick and can be optionally be packaged as an aerosol and can be provided in the form of a mousse such as an aerosol mousse, a foam or a spray foam, a spray, a stick.
Preferably the Vitamin C derivative and the respective HMO(s) are formulated into lotions, creams, gels, and tonics. These product forms may be used for a number of applications, including, but not limited to, hand and body lotions, facial moisturizers, anti-ageing preparations, make-ups including foundations, and the like. Any additional components required to formulate such products vary with product type and can be routinely chosen by one skilled in the art.
If the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are formulated as an aerosol and applied to the skin as a spray-on product, a propellant is added to the composition.
The cosmetic compositions according to the present invention can be prepared by conventional methods in the art such as e.g. by admixing the Vitamin C derivative and the respective sialyllactose(s) with all the definitions and preferences given herein with the cosmetically acceptable carrier.
The cosmetic composition may comprise further ingredients, which may form part of the carrier. Such ingredients are particularly surfactants, emulsifiers, thickeners, and oils. Such suitable surfactants, emulsifiers, thickeners, and oils are well known to a person skilled in the art.
The cosmetic compositions of the invention (including the carrier) may comprise further conventional (cosmetic) adjuvants and additives, such as preservatives/antioxidants, fatty substances/oils, water, organic solvents, silicones, thickeners, softeners, emulsifiers, antifoaming agents, aesthetic components such as fragrances, surfactants, fillers, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents, dyes, colorings/colorants, abrasives, absorbents, chelating agents and/ or sequestering agents, essential oils, skin sensates, astringents, pigments or any other ingredients usually formulated into such compositions.
If nothing else is stated, the excipients, additives, diluents, etc. mentioned in the following are suitable for the compositions according to the present invention. The necessary amounts of the cosmetic and dermatological adjuvants and additives can, based on the desired product, easily be determined by the skilled person.
The additional ingredients can either be added to the oily phase, the aqueous phase or separately as deemed appropriate. The mode of addition can easily be adapted by a person skilled in the art.
Examples of cosmetic excipients, diluents, adjuvants, additives as well as active ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry which are suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are for example described in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook by Personal Care Product Council (http://www.personalcarecouncil.org/), accessible by the online INFO BASE (http://online.personalcarecouncil.org/jsp/Home.jsp), without being limited thereto.
The cosmetically active ingredients useful herein can in some instances provide more than one benefit or operate via more than one mode of action.
Of course, one skilled in this art will take care to select the above mentioned optional additional ingredients, adjuvants, diluents and additives and/or their amounts such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the combination in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition or additions.
The cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are in particular skin care preparations, functional preparations and/or hair care preparations such as most in particularly skin or hair care preparations.
Examples of skin care preparations are, in particular, light protective preparations (sun care preparations), anti-ageing preparations, preparations for the treatment of photoageing, body oils, body lotions, body gels, treatment creams, skin protection ointments, moisturizing preparations such as moisturizing gels or moisturizing sprays, face and/or body moisturizers, make-up as well as skin lightening preparations.
Examples of functional preparations are cosmetic compositions containing active ingredients such as hormone preparations, vitamin preparations, vegetable extract preparations, anti-ageing preparations, and/or antimicrobial (antibacterial or antifungal) preparations without being limited thereto.
Examples of hair care preparations which are suitable according to the invention and which may be mentioned are shampoos, hair conditioners (also referred to as hair rinses), hairdressing compositions, hair tonics, hair regenerating compositions, hair lotions, water wave lotions, hair sprays, hair creams, hair gels, hair oils, hair pomades or hair brilliantines. Accordingly, these are always preparations which are applied to the hair and the scalp for a shorter or longer time depending on the actual purpose for which they are used.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are emulsions and/or gels. Even more preferably, the cosmetic compositions are emulsions which contain an oily phase and an aqueous phase such as in particular O/W, W/O, Si/W, W/Si, O/W/O, W/O/W multiple or a pickering emulsions.
The amount of the oily phase (i.e. the phase containing all oils and fats including the polar oils) present in such emulsions such as in particular O/W, W/O, Si/W, W/Si, O/W/O, W/O/W multiple or a pickering emulsions is preferably at least 10 wt.-%, such as in the range from 10 to 60 wt.-%, preferably in the range from 15 to 50 wt.-%, most preferably in the range from 15 to 40 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
The oil phase according to the invention preferably comprises oils selected from butylenglykoldicaprylatAdicaprat, propylenglykoldicaprylatZ-dicaprat, dicaprylylether, C s-Alkylbenzoat, Cis-ss-fatty acid triglyceride, dibutyladipate, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, 2-phenylethylbenzoat, isopropyl lauroyl sarkosinate, caprylic/ capric triglyceride as well as mixtures thereof.
The amount of the aqueous phase present in such emulsions is preferably at least 20 wt.-%, such as in the range from 20 to 90 wt.-%, preferably in the range from 30 to 80 wt.-%, most preferably in the range from 30 to 70 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously in all emulsions of the present invention the ratio of oily phase to aqueous phase is selected in the range of 40:60 to 30 to 70.
In one particular advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O/W emulsifier. The preparation of such O/W emulsions is well known to a person skilled in the art.
If the cosmetic composition according to the invention is an O/W emulsion, then it contains advantageously at least one O/W- or Si/W-emulsifier selected from the list of, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate SE (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, salts of stearic acid, polyglyceryl-3-methylglycosedistearate. Further suitable emulsifiers are phosphate esters and the salts thereof such as cetyl phosphate (e.g. as Amphisol® A from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.), diethanolamine cetyl phosphate (e.g. as Amphisol® DEA from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.), potassium cetyl phosphate (e.g. as Amphisol® K from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.), sodium cetearylsulfate, sodium glyceryl oleate phosphate, hydrogenated vegetable glycerides phosphate and mixtures thereof. Further suitable emulsifiers are sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, cetearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sucrose polystearate and hydrated polyisobutene. Furthermore, one or more synthetic polymers may be used as an emulsifier. For example, PVP eicosene copolymer, acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.
The at least one O/W, respectively Si/W emulsifier is preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 10 wt. %, in particular in the range of 0.5 to 6 wt.-%, such as more in particular in the range of 0.5 to 5 wt.-%, such as most in particular in the range of 1 to 4 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Particular suitable O/W emulsifiers to be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention encompass phosphate ester emulsifiers such as advantageously 8-10 alkyl ethyl phosphate, 09-15 alkyl phosphate, ceteareth-2 phosphate, ceteareth-5 phosphate, ceteth-8 phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, cetyl phosphate, C6-10 pareth- 4 phosphate, C12-15 pareth-2 phosphate, C12-15 pareth-3 phosphate, DEA- ceteareth-2 phosphate, DEA-cetyl phosphate, DEA-oleth-3 phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, deceth-4 phosphate, deceth-6 phosphate and trilaureth-4 phosphate.
A particular suitable O/W emulsifier to be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is potassium cetyl phosphate e.g. commercially available as Amphisol® K at DSM Nutritional Products Ltd Kaiseraugst.
Another particular suitable class of O/W emulsifiers are non-ionic self-emulsifying systems derived from olive oil e.g. known as (INCI Name) cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate (chemical composition: sorbitan ester and cetearyl ester of olive oil fatty acids) sold under the tradename OLIVEM 1000.
In one particular embodiment, the invention relates to cosmetic compositions with all the definitions and preferences given herein in the form of O/W emulsions comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O/W emulsifier wherein the O/W emulsifier is potassium cetyl phosphate. The amount of oily phase in such O/W emulsions is preferably at least 10 wt.-%, more preferably in the range of 10 to 60 wt.-%, most preferably in the range of 15 to 50 wt.-%, such as in the range of 15 to 40 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention further comprise at least one fatty alcohol (co-emulsifier), such as in particular cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and/ or behenyl alcohol. The total amount of one or several fatty alcohols on the topical compositions according to the invention is preferably selected in the range of about 0.1 to 10.0 wt.-%, in particular in the range of about 0.5 to 6.0 wt.-% with respect to the total weight of the topical composition.
Preferably, the topical compositions according to the invention comprise a thickener in particular if the topical composition is in the form of an emulsion to assist in making the consistency of a product suitable. Preferred thickeners are aluminiumsilicates, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, polyacrylates such as carbopole® (e.g. Carbopole 980, 981 , 1382, 2984, 5984) or mixtures thereof. Further preferred thickeners encompass acrylate/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate copolymers (such as e.g. Pemulen TR 1 , Pemulen TR 2, Carbopol 1328 by. NOVEON) as well as Aristoflex AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer). The cosmetic compositions according to the present invention advantageously comprise a preservative. When present, the preservative is preferably used in an amount of 0.1 to 2 wt.-%, more preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 1 .5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention in general have a pH in the range of 3 to 10, preferably a pH in the range of 3 to 8 and most preferably a pH in the range of 3 to 7.5 such as in the range of 3 to 6.5. The pH can easily be adjusted as desired with suitable acids, such as e.g. citric acid, or bases, such as sodium hydroxide (e.g. as aqueous solution), triethanolamine (TEA Care), Tromethamine (Trizma Base) and Aminomethyl Propanol (AMP-Ultra PC 2000), according to standard methods in the art. It is well understood, that ascorbic acid may be present in the composition as a salt, dependent on the final pH of the composition.
In a particular advantageous aspect, the compositions according to the present invention are free of any parabenes, benzethoniumchlorid, piroctone olamine, lauroylarginat, methylisothiazolinon, chlormethylisothiazolinon, bronopol, benzalkoniumchloride, formaldehyd releasing compounds, salicylic acid, triclosan, DMDM hydantoin, chlorphenesin and IPBC (lodopropinylbutyl carbamate), such as in particular free of methylchloroisothiazolinone.
The amount of the cosmetic composition to be applied to the skin is not critical and can easily be adjusted by a person skilled in the art. Preferably the amount is selected in the range of 0.1 to 3 mg/cm2 skin, such as preferably in the range of 0.1 to 2 mg/cm2 skin and most preferably in the range of 0.5 to 2 mg/cm2 skin.
The following examples are provided to further illustrate the compositions and effects of the present invention. These examples are illustrative only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way.
Examples
The formulations as outlined in table 1 and 2 were prepared and then stored in clear glass vials at 50°C. The colour stability was assessed by measuring the a values (L* a* b* values/ CIELAB system) after two weeks storage (which is an indicator of the discoloration of the sample: the higher the a-value, the higher the discoloration), compared to a control not containing sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
Abbreviation HMO’s 3’SL: 3'-Sialyllactose sodium salt
6’SL: 6'-Sialyllactose sodium salt
Table 1 : Formulation
Figure imgf000014_0001
Mix A and stir until a clear solution is obtained Add B at RT to A and stir until a clear solution is obtained
Add C, then add D if required and stir until a clear solution is obtained
As can be retrieved from table 1 , the addition of sodium ascorbyl phosphate leads to an increased colour stability of the sialyllactoses.
The same experiment has been repeated using lower use levels of the HMO’s. The results are outlined in table 2.
Table 2: Formulation, discoloration, various concentration levels
Figure imgf000014_0002
Figure imgf000015_0001
The pH of the formulation was adjusted to approx. 3 with citric acid

Claims

Claims
1 . A cosmetic composition comprising at least one sialyllactose and a Vitamin C derivative selected from the group consisting of ascorbyl glucosides and ascorbyl phosphates.
2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , wherein the Vitamin C derivative is an ascorbyl phosphate.
3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , wherein the Vitamin C derivative is trisodium L-ascorbyl-2-monophosphate.
4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the sialyllactose is selected from the group consisting of 3’sialyllactose or 6’sialyllactose as well as the sodium salts thereof.
5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of the Vitamin C derivative is selected in the range from 0.1 to 5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of the sialyllactose(s) is selected in the range from 0.01 to 10 wt.- %, preferably in the range from 0.1 to 7.5 wt.-%, most preferably in the range from 0.2 to 5 wt-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight-ratio between the sialyllactose and the Vitamin C derivative is selected in the range from 50: 1 to 1 :5, more preferably in the range from 25:1 to 1 :5, most preferably in the range from 15:1 to 1 :5.
8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises a carrier consisting of at least 30 wt. %, more preferably of at least 40 wt.-%, most preferably of at least 45 wt.-% of water, such as in particular of 50 to 90 wt.-% of water.
9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is an O/W emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.
10. Use of a Vitamin C derivative for suppressing discoloration of sialyllactoses, preferably in aqueous compositions
1 1 . A method for reducing discoloration of compositions containing at least one sialyllactose, comprising preparing a composition comprising said sialyllactose(s), a Vitamin C derivative and a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
12. The method according to claim 1 1 wherein the Vitamin C derivative is selected from the group consisting of ascorbyl glucosides and ascorbyl phosphates as well as salts thereof and as well as any mixtures thereof.
13. The method according to claim 11 or 12, wherein the total amount of the Vitamin C derivative is selected in the range from 0.01 to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 to 15 wt. %, most preferably from 0.1 to 10 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
14. The method according to any one of claims 11 to 13, wherein the total amount of sialyllactose(s) is selected in the range from 0.01 to 10 wt.-%, preferably in the range from 0.1 to 7.5 wt.-%, most preferably in the range from 0.2 to 5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
15. The method according to anyone of claims 11 to 14, wherein the carrier consists of at least 30 wt. %, more preferably of at least 40 wt.-%, most preferably of at least 45 wt.-% of water, such as in particular of 50 to 90 wt.-% of water.
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Citations (4)

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US10596094B2 (en) * 2013-03-08 2020-03-24 Yale University Compositions and methods for reducing skin pigmentation
US20200163981A1 (en) * 2017-05-09 2020-05-28 Societe Des Produits Nestle S.A. Synergistic production of butyrate associated with the complexity of hmos blend for use in infants or young children for health purposes
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