WO2023006924A1

WO2023006924A1 - Method for producing a vegetable planar textile structure

Info

Publication number: WO2023006924A1
Application number: PCT/EP2022/071283
Authority: WO
Inventors: Lucas FUHRMANN
Original assignee: Revoltech GmbH
Priority date: 2021-07-28
Filing date: 2022-07-28
Publication date: 2023-02-02
Also published as: EP4377512A1; KR20240034192A; CA3225712A1; CN117751217A; DE102021119667A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for producing a non-synthetic planar textile structure and to the non-synthetic planar textile structure per se.

Description

Process for producing a vegetable fabric The present invention relates to a process for producing a non-synthetic fabric and the non-synthetic fabric.

STATE OF THE ART

Leather has always been one of the important materials used in the manufacture of clothing and objects. However, real leather is generally rejected by the growing number of vegan people. In addition, the use of leather has come under criticism for various ecological and ethical reasons. The production of leather causes, among other things, not inconsiderable CO ₂ emissions when rearing the animals. During further processing in the tannery, ecologically questionable chemicals are often used. Although it is a by-product of the meat industry, animal suffering is now a decisive argument against leather.

For the reasons mentioned, many products that are traditionally made of or with leather are therefore offered in imitation leather (e.g. handbags, furniture or car interior trim).

However, in most cases artificial leather is based on synthetic, petroleum-based components (e.g. PU coatings, carrier material made of synthetic fibers), which limits biodegradability and leads to other ecological problems, such as the abrasion of microplastics.

The production of imitation leather or leather-like substitutes is known in principle. For example, DE 1635546 C3 describes a process for producing leather-like sheet material from an aqueous slurry.

DE 102006001 095 A1, which describes a method for producing a leather-containing fabric with a cover layer and a carrier layer, goes in a similar direction. After these two processes, however, real leather is still used, at least in fiber form.

TASK

The present invention is therefore based on the object of providing an improved leather substitute and a suitable production process therefor.

SUMMARY

The object is achieved according to the invention by a method for producing a non-synthetic, textile fabric, comprising the steps: a) providing a pulp comprising at least one liquid, in particular water, at least one non-synthetic fiber material, at least one binder, at least one process additive; b) production of a non-synthetic, textile fabric by at least partially separating the liquid, in particular the water, from the pulp; wherein the at least one binder comprises at least one natural latex. The method according to the invention can additionally have one or more of the following partial steps in step a): a1) providing the non-synthetic fiber material, the non-synthetic fiber material having or consisting of shortened and/or full-length fibers; and/or a2) adding the at least one liquid, in particular water, to the non-synthetic fiber material; and/or a3) mechanical processing of the non-synthetic fiber material; and/or a4) cleaning of the non-synthetic fiber material; and/or a5) adding at least one binder; and/or a6) adding at least one process additive; and/or a7) adding at least one auxiliary; and/or a8) making the pulp.

The method according to the invention can additionally have one or more of the following sub-steps in step b): b1) applying the pulp provided in step a) to a liquid-permeable carrier element, in particular a water-permeable carrier element for at least partially separating off the at least one liquid, in particular the water; and/or b2) production of a pulp layer comprising the pulp from step a), wherein the at least one liquid, in particular the water, is at least partially removed from the pulp layer is; and/or b3) drying the pulp layer; and/or b4) carrying out a shaping process on the pulp layer, in particular on the dried pulp layer, to obtain the non-synthetic, textile fabric; and/or b5) adding at least one auxiliary.

The method according to the invention can also include the separation of the non-synthetic fiber material into fibers and their fibrillation during the mechanical processing in step a3). The method according to the invention can have at least one process additive, which is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides, in particular starch, modified starch, cationically modified starch; cellulose or derivatives thereof, in particular carboxymethylated cellulose, cellulose acetate, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose; aluminum sulfate; or mixtures thereof.

The method according to the invention can also have the at least one binder, which also has synthetic latex.

The method according to the invention can additionally have at least one auxiliary, the at least one auxiliary being selected from plasticizers, fillers, dyes, pigments, UV stabilizers, waterproofing agents, antimicrobial agents, flame retardants, wet strength agents, sizing agents or mixtures thereof.

In the method according to the invention, the non-synthetic fiber material can be selected from vegetable fiber material, preferably natural fibers; Cellulose; preferably from recycled pulp; textiles made from natural fibers, preferably made from recycled textiles made from natural fibers; or mixtures thereof.

The method according to the invention can also have the following step: c) carrying out an after-treatment on the non-synthetic textile fabric produced in step b).

Also according to the invention is the use of cationic starch as a process additive, preferably in the process according to the invention.

According to the invention, a non-synthetic, textile fabric can also be obtained by the process according to the invention. According to the invention is also a non-synthetic, textile fabric comprising non-synthetic fiber material, at least one process additive, at least one binder, wherein the at least one binder comprises natural latex.

The non-synthetic textile fabric according to the invention can also have at least one auxiliary selected from plasticizers, dyes, UV stabilizers, waterproofing agents, antimicrobial agents, flame retardants, wet strength agents, sizing agents, pigments or mixtures thereof.

Also according to the invention is the use of the non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention as a leather substitute, in particular for the production of fashion (shoe components and uppers, bags, accessories, clothing), furniture (seat covers, furniture surfaces), car interiors, stationery (e.g. bindings), facade cladding or floor coverings.

According to the invention is also a leather substitute comprising the non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention.

Furthermore, the leather substitute according to the invention has decorations, engravings, embossing, embroidery, coatings, gluing or mixtures thereof.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

This object is achieved by a method according to the invention for producing a non-synthetic, textile fabric, comprising the steps: a) providing a pulp comprising at least one liquid, in particular water, at least one non-synthetic fiber material, at least one binder, at least one process additive; b) production of a non-synthetic, textile fabric by at least partially separating the liquid, in particular the water, from the pulp; wherein the at least one binder comprises at least one natural latex.

The method according to the invention has the advantage that a non-synthetic, textile fabric can be produced which can be used as a leather substitute. The term "pulp" in the sense of the present application means a fibrous, pulpy mixture, in particular a fibrous, pulpy substance, comprising at least one liquid, in particular water, at least one non-synthetic fiber material, at least one binder, in particular a plant-based binder and at least one process additive, in particular a plant-based process additive. The properties of the pulp used in the process according to the invention are similar to those of the pulp known, for example, from paper manufacture. The consistency (concentration of fibers in the pulp) in the pulp can preferably be adjusted to a value between 0.1% by weight and 5% by weight.

The at least one liquid includes water. In one embodiment, the pulp is an aqueous pulp, which means that the liquid is water. The water can be selected from distilled water or tap water or mixtures thereof. The liquid can also contain organic solvents or oils. In one embodiment, the liquid is a mixture of water and oils. The proportion of oil in the liquid can range from 5 to 40% by weight based on the dry weight of the non-synthetic fiber material used.

The at least one non-synthetic fiber material is preferably selected from vegetable fiber material, preferably natural fibers; Cellulose; preferably from recycled pulp; textiles made from natural fibers, preferably made from recycled textiles made from natural fibers; or mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the non-synthetic fibrous material is not in the form of a nonwoven or woven fabric, but rather is in the form of an accumulation of loose, individual fibers, eg, in the form of a bale or skein. The non-synthetic fiber material does not contain any synthetic fibers, i.e. fibers which are obtained from petroleum-based polymers. Furthermore, the non-synthetic fiber material has no leather fibers of animal origin. This has the advantage that a non-synthetic fabric can be obtained that contains no leather fibers of animal origin and also no fibers that have been produced from petroleum-based polymers. The natural fibers can occur as by-products of agricultural products or can be obtained from annual plants. Examples of plants from which the natural fibers can be obtained are hemp, bananas, pineapple, silphie, flax, Kenaf, jute, cotton, sisal, agave, abaca, ramie, curauä, coconut and kapok. According to the invention, hemp fibers are particularly preferred. Mixtures of the aforementioned natural fibers can also be used. For economic and ecological reasons, it has proven to be advantageous if natural fibers, which occur as by-products of agricultural products, are used as the non-synthetic fiber material. In this way, the CC>2 balance is better than in plants that are only planted for fiber production, ceteris paribus. In addition, it is advantageous if the added value of the plant is not based solely on the fibers and allows economic scaling.

In the context of the present application, “pulp” is understood to mean a fibrous material which consists of cellulose and is produced from the chemical and mechanical processing of fibrous plants or wood. The plants can be selected from the plants disclosed above, from which the natural fibers can also be obtained. The cellulose can also consist of recycled cellulose or at least contain proportions of recycled cellulose.

Furthermore, the non-synthetic fiber material can be selected from textiles made from natural fibers, preferably from recycled textiles made from natural fibers, for example old clothing made from natural fibers suitable for clothing production, such as jute, cotton, sisal or hemp.

The term “binder” in the sense of the present application means a substance which elastically connects fibers of the non-synthetic fiber material to one another to form a three-dimensional network.

According to the invention, the at least one binder has a plant-based binder made from natural latex. Natural latex can be obtained from the rubber tree (Hevea Brasilensis), guayle (Parthenium argentatum), Russian dandelion (Taraxacum koksaghyz), or mixtures thereof. The latter in particular can also be grown in Europe, so that this raw material can be sourced regionally and is therefore more climate-friendly. The at least one binder preferably consists of natural latex. In one embodiment, however, the binder can also include synthetic latex, which is obtained from petroleum-based polymers, for example. With the use of latex or rubber or a latex-based or rubber-based binder, for example, a leather-like or higher degree of softness is achieved in the end product, ie in the leather substitute or in the non-synthetic fabric according to the invention. In the context of the present application, the term “process additive” is understood to mean a precipitating agent which enables the formation of the three-dimensional network of non-synthetic fiber material and binder. The at least one process additive is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides, in particular starch, modified starch, cationically modified starch; cellulose or derivatives thereof, in particular carboxymethylated cellulose, cellulose acetate, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose; aluminum sulfate (also called: alum); or mixtures thereof. The at least one process additive is preferably a vegetable process additive selected from polysaccharides, in particular starch or cellulose or mixtures thereof. The use of polysaccharide, in particular cationic starch, has the advantage that it is at least partially water-soluble (in both cold and warm water) and develops its effect in the neutral range. The pulp is therefore no longer acidic or contaminated with acid. In addition, the use of metal salts that are harmful to health and the environment is avoided. The use of cationic starch as a process additive, preferably in the process according to the invention, is also in accordance with the invention.

Step a) of the method according to the invention can have one or more of the following partial steps: a1) providing the non-synthetic fiber material, the non-synthetic fiber material having or consisting of shortened and/or full-length fibers; and/or a2) adding the at least one liquid, in particular water, to the non-synthetic fiber material; and/or a3) mechanical processing of the non-synthetic fiber material; and/or a4) cleaning of the non-synthetic fiber material; and/or a5) adding at least one binder; and/or a6) adding at least one process additive; and/or a7) adding at least one auxiliary; and/or a8) making the pulp.

In step a1), the non-synthetic fiber material is provided, wherein the non-synthetic fiber material has or consists of shortened and/or unshortened fibers. The non-synthetic fiber material used according to the invention must be processed as a rule in order to achieve a distribution that is as homogeneous as possible and a achieve increased strength. Depending on the type and extraction of the non-synthetic fiber material, it also has to be unraveled, e.g. with the help of a carding machine. In the case of textiles, for example, they first have to be chopped up into small pieces, for example using a shredder.

In step a2), the provided non-synthetic fiber material, which may have gone through step a1), is mixed with at least one liquid that has already been described above. This can be done by placing the non-synthetic fibrous material in a suitable container and then adding the liquid, or using the reverse order. The fiber concentration can be adjusted as needed. The fiber concentration can be at least 0.1% by weight, or at least 0.2% by weight, or at least 0.3% by weight, or at least 0.5% by weight, or at least 0.7% by weight, or at least 1% by weight, or at least 1.3% by weight, or at least 1.5% by weight, or at least 2% by weight, or at least 2.5% by weight, or at least 3% by weight, and/or up to 10% by weight, or up to 9% by weight, or up to 8% by weight, or up to 7% by weight, or up to 6% by weight, or up to 5% by weight, or up to 4% by weight. In particular, the fiber concentration can be at least 0.1% up to 10% by weight, or 0.1% up to 8% by weight, or 0.1% up to 5% by weight.

In step a3), the non-synthetic fiber material is mechanically processed. The non-synthetic fiber material can have gone through at least steps a2) and a4). The term “mechanical processing” in the context of the present application is to be understood as meaning that the non-synthetic fiber material is subjected to a mechanical process which includes separating the non-synthetic fiber material into fibers and fibrillating the fibers. This has the advantage that the fiber bundles are broken down into their individual fibers, which increases the contact surface between the fibers and between fibers and binder. In this way, a more tear-resistant and more homogeneous material can be formed in the further process. Essentially all methods known in the prior art are suitable for this. According to the invention, the non-synthetic fiber material is mechanically processed in the form of a grinding process. For this purpose, the non-synthetic fiber material is introduced into a beating unit and subjected to a beating process. Suitable grinding units are cone refiners, disc refiners, Dutchmen, Papillon refiners, PFI mills, Jokro mills. One or more milling processes can be carried out. The grinding operations can vary depending on what is desired to be achieved Freeness of the non-synthetic fiber material can be adjusted. Typically, a high degree of freeness also provides better product quality. Typically, a grinding process lasts between 1 minute and 2 hours. In principle, however, the duration of the beating process depends on what degree of beating is to be achieved and how high the energy input (kWh/t fiber) is during the beating process. During the grinding process, the fibers are shortened, separated and fibrillated. The result is a homogeneous fiber suspension. The suspension can then be cleaned, rinsed or thickened again using a pressure screen. In step a4), the non-synthetic fiber material is cleaned. It has proven advantageous for the quality and processability of the non-synthetic fiber material if, before or after step a1) or before or after step a2) or before or after step a3), the non-synthetic fiber material is free of foreign bodies (such as dust, shives/woody parts, other impurities) is cleaned. In step a4), the non-synthetic fiber material can thus be cleaned of foreign bodies, for example mechanically. Furthermore, the cleaning can also include one or more washing processes and/or alkaline cooking and/or an enzymatic treatment. For example, the non-synthetic fibrous material can be alkaline cooked to digest the fibres, ie to cook lignin out of the fibres, for example. If the lignin remains in the non-synthetic fiber material, it will have a natural color depending on its origin. If this natural coloring is not desired, alkaline cooking can be used. Alkaline boiling out of lignin also reduces strength. Cleaning generally has the advantage that undesirable components such as foreign bodies or disruptive chemical compounds such as pectin or lignin can be at least partially, preferably completely, removed. This supports or simplifies the fibrillation in step a3) or can facilitate or accelerate the separation of the liquid in step b). In step a5) the at least one binder can be added. The binder can be placed in a suitable container, for example, and the non-synthetic fiber material, which has optionally gone through steps a1) and/or a2) and/or a3) and/or a4) and/or a6), can be added to the binder be admitted. The sequence can also be the other way around, ie the non-synthetic fiber material, which has optionally gone through steps a1) and/or a2) and/or a3) and/or a4) and/or a6), is placed in a suitable container , and the binder is added. Binders and non-synthetic fiber material can mixed in this step. The weight ratio of binder to non-synthetic fibrous material can be varied depending on the desired property of the non-synthetic fabric. For example, if more latex is used than fiber material, a more rubbery non-synthetic sheet will result. Typical weight ratios of non-synthetic fiber material: latex or binder are in the range of 1:0.2 to 1:3, or 1:0.3 to 1:3, or 1:0.5 to 1:2.5, or 1:0.7 to 1:2 ..

In step a6) the at least one process additive can be added. The process additive can, for example, be presented in a suitable container, and the non-synthetic fiber material, which has optionally gone through steps a1) and/or a2) and/or a3) and/or a4) and/or a5), can dem Process additive are added. The sequence can also be the other way around, i.e. the non-synthetic fiber material, which has optionally gone through steps a1) and/or a2) and/or a3) and/or a4) and/or a5), is placed in a suitable container, and the process additive is added. Process additive and non-synthetic fiber material can be mixed in this step. Typical weight ratios of non-synthetic fiber material:process additive are in the range of 1:0.02 to 1:0.2, or 1:0.03 to 1:0.2, or 1:0.05 to 1:0.15.

At least one auxiliary can be added in step a7). The aid can, for example, be presented in a suitable container, and the non-synthetic fiber material, which can optionally carry out steps a1) and/or a2) and/or a3) and/or a4) and/or a5) and/or a6) has gone through can be added to the aid. The order can also be the other way around, i.e. the non-synthetic fiber material, which has optionally gone through steps a1) and/or a2) and/or a3) and/or a4) and/or a5) and/or a6), in a suitable container is presented, and the at least one auxiliary is added. Adjuvants and non-synthetic fiber material can be mixed in this step.

Suitable auxiliaries can be selected from plasticizers, fillers, colors, pigments, UV stabilizers, water repellents, antimicrobial agents, flame retardants, wet strength agents, sizing agents or mixtures thereof. Plasticizers are used when greater suppleness is to be achieved for the non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention. Various types of plasticizers can be used according to the invention. Inorganic chemical plasticizers are preferably avoided. In particular, selected plant-based plasticizers can be used, where the plant-based plasticizers can be selected from modified natural oils, plant-based anhydrides of alkenylsuccinic acid, plant-based alkylated ketene dimers, plant-based polyhydric alcohols or mixtures thereof. The vegetable-based modified oils can be sulfated. This has the advantage that these oils are easily emulsified. In general, such natural oils can be vegetable-based oils selected from sunflower oil, Turkish red oil (sulphated castor oil), or rapeseed oil. Furthermore, the natural oils can also be of animal origin, such as fish oil. The softeners, especially the modified plant-based oils, remain in the material as small droplets and in this way create free spaces so that the individual fibers can move more freely among themselves. This makes the material softer and more supple. Typical weight ratios of non-synthetic fibrous material:plasticizer are in the range of 1:0.01 to 1:0.4, or 1:0.05 to 1:0.35, or 1:0.1 to 1:0.4.

Fillers can be used when the non-synthetic fabric according to the invention is intended to have a smooth surface and/or to have greater suppleness. Fillers can be selected from silicates such as kaolin; carbonates such as chalk or gypsum; metal oxides such as titanium oxide or aluminum oxide; barium sulfate; nanocellulose such as CNC (cellulose nanocrystals), CNF (cellulose nanofibrils), FNC (fibrillated nanocellulose); or mixtures thereof. Typical weight ratios of non-synthetic fibrous material:filler are in the range of 1:0.1 to 1:1, or 1:0.15 to 1:0.9, or 1:0.2 to 1:0.8.

Colors can be used when the non-synthetic fabric is to have a specific color. Thus, the non-synthetic fabric can be dyed, and the dyeing process can be done at different points in the process. The dyeing can be carried out before, during or after step a). Either the non-synthetic fiber material can be colored or the pulp. The colors can be selected from inorganic pigments such as carbon, metal oxides or metal sulfates; natural dyes such as saffron, indigo, onion skins, quebracho wood extract, madder root extract, dyer's madder extract, brazil extract, logwood extract.; synthetic dyes such as direct dyes, cationic dyes, vat dyes, reactive dyes, developing dyes, food coloring; or mixtures thereof. The material to be colored can be placed in an appropriate liquid/suspension for coloring. In addition, the finished non-synthetic fabric can be colored by applying paint to the surface. Alternatively, colors/pigments can be added to the pulp. Through the processing of colored fibres, the material is colored throughout. This prevents color abrasion - such as when painting.

In step a8), the pulp is produced, with at least the non-synthetic fiber material, the at least one binder, the at least one process additive and the at least one liquid being brought into contact with one another and mixed so that the pulp is formed.

The partial steps a1) to a8) of step a) of the method according to the invention described above can be carried out in any order, or also in parallel. For example, part of the non-synthetic fibrous material may be subjected to step a2), while another part of the non-synthetic fibrous material is subjected to step a5). Step a6) is preferably carried out or executed as the last partial step in step a).

Furthermore, the method according to the invention has step b), wherein step b) can have one or more of the following sub-steps: b1) Applying the pulp provided in step a) to a liquid-permeable carrier element, in particular a water-permeable carrier element for at least partial separation of the at least one liquid , especially the water; and/or b2) production of a pulp layer comprising the pulp from step a), wherein the at least one liquid, in particular the water, is at least partially removed from the pulp layer; and/or b3) drying the pulp layer; and/or b4) performing a shaping process on the pulp layer, in particular on the dried pulp layer, to obtain the non-synthetic, textile fabric; and/or b5) adding at least one auxiliary. In step b1), the pulp provided in step a) is placed on a liquid-permeable carrier element, in particular a water-permeable! rägerelement for at least partially separating the at least one liquid, in particular the water applied. It can be applied by suitable methods known from the prior art, such as spreading or pouring on. The “liquid-permeable support element” is a device such as a sieve or a perforated plate, onto which the pulp is applied to separate the liquid. In step b2), a pulp layer is produced, comprising the pulp from step a), the at least one liquid, in particular the water, being at least partially removed from the pulp layer. The at least one liquid is removed either by the action of gravity or by the action of an external force such as a pressure plate or the application of a vacuum. After the liquid has been separated off, the partially dried or partially dewatered pulp layer is removed again from the liquid-permeable carrier element. The liquid-permeable carrier element thus differs from carrier materials known from the prior art, which remain in the finished product. In step b3) the pulp layer produced for example in step b2) is further dried until at least 90%, or at least 95%, or at least 98% or at least 99% of the at least one liquid has been removed from the pulp layer. This drying can take place either at room temperature by evaporation or in suitable devices such as drying ovens at elevated temperatures and/or pressure. In step b3) the so-called sheet formation takes place. This sheet formation can be continuous or discontinuous. Large screening machines with vacuum suction (similar to a paper machine) are required for continuous sheet formation. The discontinuous sheet formation can be done with laboratory equipment (e.g. Rapid-Köthen sheet former) or by hand, similar to paper making.

In step b4) a shaping process is carried out on the pulp layer, in particular on the dried pulp layer, to obtain the non-synthetic, textile fabric. Steps b3) and b4) can take place simultaneously, ie drying also takes place during the shaping process. However, steps b3) and b4) can also take place one after the other, ie step b4) after b3) or vice versa. The shaping process can also be carried out with devices known from the prior art, such as rollers. The shaping carried out in step b4) can include the pressing and/or embossing of the material. By pressing the material when it is dry, the surface becomes smooth, and in some cases it is also slightly shiny due to satin finishing.

At least one auxiliary can be added in step b5), as already described above in step a7). Step b5) can be carried out at any time before or after or at the same time as steps b1) to b4).

The partial steps b1) to b5) of step b) of the method according to the invention described above can be carried out in any order, or else in parallel.

The method according to the invention can also have a step c): c) carrying out an after-treatment on the non-synthetic textile fabric produced in step b).

The post-treatment may consist of one or more treatments selected from: fulling, staking and/or milling; Equipped with UV protection and/or flame retardant and/or antimicrobial protection (e.g. by applying nano-silver), hydrophobing (e.g. by applying a polymer emulsion); Application of wet strength agent and/or sizing agent; Embroider; (laser) engraving; embossing (e.g. by means of plates or rollers); Coating (e.g. with proteins or waxes); surface staining; Pigment application (e.g. effect pigments). The aim of the after-treatment is to refine the non-synthetic, textile fabric or to equip it with certain properties. According to the invention, such post-treatments include coating or impregnating the non-synthetic, textile fabric, for example rendering the surface hydrophobic with waxes. The surface can also be engraved by means of a laser, for example, or embroidered using a suitable device. The material can be embossed in order to obtain a special look and feel, for example grain embossing to create an animal leather look is possible. Logos, lettering etc. can also be embossed. As already described, further mechanical processing can also be carried out, for example by fulling, staking and/or milling. As a result, the fibers are loosened among themselves, which means that the material loses its stability and thus becomes softer and more supple. One embodiment of the method according to the invention for producing a non-synthetic fabric has the following steps: a1) providing a non-synthetic fiber material, the non-synthetic fiber material having or consisting of shortened and/or unshortened fibers and a2) offsetting the non-synthetic , Fibrous material with at least one liquid, in particular water, a3) mechanical processing of the non-synthetic, fibrous material, a5) adding a plant-based binder, a6) adding a plant-based process additive and obtaining a pulp, b1) applying the pulp to a water-permeable carrier element for separation the water from the pulp, b3) drying the pulp layer and b4) shaping, b) obtaining the non-synthetic fabric.

The method according to the invention has the advantage that it can start entirely from plant and/or plant-based raw materials, so that it can be carried out vegan on the one hand and petroleum-free on the other hand and can lead to a vegan, petroleum-free product, the non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention.

The terms "plant-based", "vegetable" or "natural" are used synonymously in the present application and mean that no synthetic, petroleum-based raw materials / substances are included or, for example, the plant-based binder on the further processing of plant components without the addition of artificial raw materials. The method according to the invention can preferably be set up completely ecologically, since no microplastic abrasion emanates from the non-synthetic, textile fabric produced, as is the case with synthetic fibers or artificial leather. By using natural fibers and plant-based raw materials, the product of the method according to the invention can be biodegradable.

Furthermore, the present object is achieved by a non-synthetic, textile fabric. In particular, the non-synthetic, textile fabric is obtainable by the above-described inventive

Procedure. The non-synthetic, textile fabric preferably has a single-layer structure and consists entirely of vegetable substances. The non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention does not contain any leather of animal origin. The non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention is preferably free from petroleum-based components. The non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention is preferably free of chemicals that are hazardous to health.

In the context of the present application, the term “non-synthetic, textile fabric” refers to a substance that is similar to real leather or imitation leather, how this can be processed and can therefore be used as a leather substitute. The fabric is non-woven and can be referred to as a fleece. The non-synthetic, textile fabric within the meaning of the present application has at least one non-synthetic fiber material, at least one process additive and at least one binder, with the at least one binder having natural latex.

Furthermore, the non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention can have at least one auxiliary selected from plasticizers, colors, UV stabilizers, waterproofing agents, antimicrobial agents, flame retardants, wet strength agents, sizing agents, pigments or mixtures thereof. Examples and specific configurations of these aids have already been described above in connection with the method according to the invention. In principle, the plant-based textile fabric has the same advantages as those mentioned above for the method according to the invention. The non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention can be produced entirely from plant and/or plant-based raw materials, so that on the one hand it is vegan and on the other hand petroleum-free. Due to the way the process is carried out according to the invention and the raw materials or auxiliaries used, it cannot contain any metal residues. The non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention does not produce any microplastic abrasion, and it is also biodegradable.

Unlike animal skins, the thickness of the non-synthetic textile fabric according to the invention is not dictated by nature, but can be freely selected and controlled. The non-synthetic fabric of the present invention can have a thickness customary for leather, for example a thickness between 0.2 and 5 mm.

Unlike multi-layer artificial leather, the non-synthetic textile fabric according to the invention can be processed with open edges.

With the non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention, a single-layer product is made available that can be further processed using standard procedures. For example, it can be sewn, glued, nailed and embroidered.

Also according to the invention is the use of the non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention, in particular for the production of textiles, seat covers, bags, appliqués. Possible areas of application are in fashion (shoe components and uppers, bags, accessories, clothing), furniture (seat covers, furniture surfaces), car interiors, stationery (e.g. bindings). The non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention can also be used in the construction industry or in interior design, for example for facade cladding or floor coverings.

Also according to the invention is a leather substitute comprising the non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention. The leather substitute according to the invention can have decorations, engravings, embossing, embroidery, coatings, gluing or mixtures thereof. The leather substitute according to the invention can be combined with other materials that can usually be combined with leather. The leather substitute according to the invention can be processed and used like conventional leather of animal origin or artificial leather. In particular, the leather substitute according to the invention, as well as the non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention, can have the same, similar or even improved properties compared to conventional leather of animal origin or synthetic leather. Such properties are, for example, tensile strength, for example in the range from 15 to 50 N/mm ² ; elongation at break, for example in the range 10 to 50%; tear resistance, for example in the range from 4 to 40 N/mm; Residual moisture, for example in the range from 0.5 to 10%; or abrasion resistance Martindale, for example in the range of >20,000 cycles. The leather substitute according to the invention differs from the non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention in that the leather substitute according to the invention has already been optimized for the subsequent application, for example by cutting or further (surface) treatments in order to achieve certain properties. Examples of such (surface) treatments have already been described above.

Further goals, features, advantages and application possibilities result from the figures and from the following description of exemplary embodiments that do not restrict the invention. All of the features described and/or illustrated form the subject matter of the invention, either alone or in any combination, even independently of their summary in the claims or their back-reference. Show it:

1 is a photographic representation of a non-synthetic, fibrous material made from uncut fibers,

Fig. 2 is a photographic representation of a partially dewatered pulp layer for sheet formation and

3 is a photographic representation of a finished non-synthetic fabric.

In one embodiment, the non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention is made from hemp fibers. The fibers are sourced from an agricultural cooperative in Germany. The fibers are in the form of wool, as illustrated photographically in Figure 1, in the form of bales. In addition to the fibers to be used, the wool contains a residual proportion of woody shives and other impurities. To improve the product quality, these shives and foreign matter can be separated from the other fibers in a first process step. The advantage of using hemp fibers is that the plants are not cultivated for the purpose of fiber production. The fibers are therefore left over as waste.

In order to be able to produce a tear-resistant and homogeneous fabric according to the present invention from the fibers, they first have to be mechanically processed. The processing can be done in different machines. The process can be carried out either with a cone refiner known from the paper industry or with a Dutchman. At the beginning of the treatment, the fibers can be mixed with water. During the so-called beating, the fibers are shortened, separated and fibrillated by the grinding aggregates. The result is a homogeneous fiber suspension. The suspension can then be cleaned, rinsed or thickened again using a pressure screen.

In the next step, the pulp is produced. The preferably diluted (vegetable) binder and the (vegetable) process additive are added to the fiber suspension one after the other. Successful fixation is clearly visible to the eye. The fibers noticeably flocculate and, after a period of rest, settle to the bottom of the vessel.

The so-called sheet is then formed. Sheet formation can take place both in a continuous and in a discontinuous process. Large screening machines with vacuum suction (similar to a paper machine) are required for continuous sheet formation. The discontinuous sheet formation can be done with laboratory equipment (e.g. Rapid-Köthen sheet former) or by hand, similar to paper making.

During sheet formation, the water is separated from the remaining pulp solids. For this purpose, the pulp is placed on a sieve (a water-permeable support element). Such a pulp layer is illustrated photographically in FIG. In the manual process, a sieve box is used for this. The water is allowed to drain through the screen while the solids are retained. The process can be accelerated on a screening machine by applying a vacuum.

The partially dewatered pulp layer in the form of a fiber mat is then transferred from the screen to a fleece (only temporarily) by falling the screen box. For further dewatering, the fiber mat is pressed between two fleeces in a press. The remaining liquid must be pressed out as slowly as possible in order not to damage the three-dimensional structure. After pressing, the sheet formed is already so tear-resistant that it is easy to handle. The leaf must now be dried further with the room air until it reaches the equilibrium moisture content. Drying takes place in the oven at moderate temperatures or in the air.

In the continuous process, pressing and drying takes place via pairs of rollers and drying cylinders or calenders. The surface of the dried material can be further finished by embossing or pressing between metal plates or rollers.

In this way, the non-synthetic, textile fabric according to the invention is obtained. A specific embodiment of this non-synthetic, textile fabric is shown photographically in FIG.

The present invention is explained again below using the examples, but without being restricted to these.

example 1

200 g fibers (hemp, long fibers from wool) are added to 18 liters of water in a Dutchman. The subsequent grinding process is carried out with the standard weight applied for 30 minutes. 10 g carbon black (as color pigment) and 60 g latex (binder) are added while stirring. 30 g of cationic starch (process additive) are dissolved in 3 liters of water and also added. The pulp is agitated and with the agitation the pulp precipitates. This pulp is then placed in a screen box to dewater. After dewatering, the formed, partially dewatered pulp layer is placed between two layers of felt and pressed and then air-dried.

A grey/black surface structure is obtained which is reminiscent of leather in its feel. The fabric is stiff after drying.

example 2

30 g of hemp fibers are shortened to a length of 0.5 cm and filled with water to a total weight of 300 g. The mixture is placed in a PFI grinder and ground at standard weight for 3 minutes. The fiber suspension is then mixed with 1.5 liters of water and whipped in a whipping machine. The pulp is then produced by adding 1 gram of sulfated sunflower oil (plasticizer), 10 grams of latex (binder), 2 grams of kaolin (filler) and 1 liter of water. 0.01 to 0.02M aluminum sulphate is used as a process additive for precipitating or fixing the pulp added with stirring until a pH of 5 is reached. The pulp thus obtained is placed in a screen box to be dewatered. After dewatering, the formed, partially dewatered pulp layer is placed between two layers of felt and pressed and then air-dried.

The non-synthetic, textile fabric shown in FIG. 3 is obtained, which is reminiscent of leather in terms of its feel and appearance.

Claims

PATENT CLAIMS

1. A method for producing a non-synthetic, textile fabric, comprising the steps of a) providing a pulp comprising at least one liquid, in particular water, at least one non-synthetic fiber material, at least one binder, at least one process additive; b) production of a non-synthetic, textile fabric by at least partially separating off the liquid, in particular the

water from the pulp; wherein the at least one binder comprises at least one natural latex.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein step a) has one or more of the following sub-steps: a1) providing the non-synthetic fiber material, wherein the non-synthetic fiber material has shortened and/or full-length fibers or consists thereof; and/or a2) adding the at least one liquid, in particular water, to the non-synthetic fiber material; and/or a3) mechanical processing of the non-synthetic fiber material; and/or a4) cleaning of the non-synthetic fiber material; and/or a5) adding at least one binder; and/or a6) adding at least one process additive; and/or a7) adding at least one auxiliary; and/or a8) making the pulp.

3. The method according to at least one of claims 1 or 2, wherein step b) has one or more of the following sub-steps: b1) applying the pulp provided in step a) to a liquid-permeable carrier element, in particular a water-permeable carrier element for at least partially separating the at least one liquid, especially water; and or b2) creating a pulp layer comprising the pulp from

Step a), wherein the at least one liquid, in particular the water, is at least partially removed from the pulp layer; and/or b3) drying the pulp layer; and/or b4) performing a shaping process on the pulp layer, in particular on the dried pulp layer, to obtain the non-synthetic, textile fabric; and/or b5) adding at least one auxiliary.

4. The method according to at least one of claims 2 or 3, wherein the mechanical processing in step a3) comprises separating the non-synthetic fiber material into fibers and fibrillating them.

5. The method of at least one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the at least one process additive is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides, in particular starch, modified starch, cationically modified starch; cellulose or derivatives thereof, in particular carboxymethylated cellulose, cellulose acetate, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose; aluminum sulfate; or mixtures thereof.

6. The method according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the at least one binder further comprises synthetic latex.

7. The method according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the at least one auxiliary is selected from plasticizers, fillers, colors,

Pigments, UV stabilizers, waterproofing agents, antimicrobial agents, flame retardants, wet strength agents, sizing agents or mixtures thereof.

8. The method according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the non-synthetic fiber material is selected from vegetable fiber material, preferably natural fibers; Cellulose; preferably from recycled pulp; textiles made from natural fibers, preferably made from recycled textiles made from natural fibers; or mixtures thereof.

9. The method according to at least one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the method further comprises the following step: c) Carrying out an after-treatment on the non-synthetic textile fabric produced in step b).

10. Use of cationic starch as a process additive, preferably in the method according to at least one of claims 1 to 9.

11. Non-synthetic, textile fabric obtainable by the method according to at least one of claims 1 to 9.

12. Non-synthetic fabric comprising non-synthetic

Fibrous material, at least one process additive, at least one binder, wherein the at least one binder has natural latex.

13. Non-synthetic, textile fabric according to claim 12 further comprising at least one auxiliary selected from plasticizers, colors,

UV protection agents, water repellents, antimicrobial agents, flame retardants, wet strength agents, sizing agents, pigments or mixtures thereof.

14. Use of the non-synthetic, textile fabric according to at least one of claims 11 to 13 as a leather substitute, in particular for the production of fashion (shoe components and uppers, bags, accessories, clothing), furniture (seat covers, furniture surfaces), car interiors, stationery ( e.g. bindings), facade cladding or floor coverings.

15. A leather substitute comprising the non-synthetic, textile fabric according to at least one of claims 11 to 13.

16. Leather substitute according to claim 15 further comprising decorations, engravings,

Embossing, embroidery, coating, bonding or mixtures thereof.