WO2022269272A1 - Jewellery mechanism - Google Patents

Jewellery mechanism Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022269272A1
WO2022269272A1 PCT/GB2022/051614 GB2022051614W WO2022269272A1 WO 2022269272 A1 WO2022269272 A1 WO 2022269272A1 GB 2022051614 W GB2022051614 W GB 2022051614W WO 2022269272 A1 WO2022269272 A1 WO 2022269272A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
track
plate
jewellery
decorative cap
sprue
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/GB2022/051614
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Alyssa Smith
Original Assignee
Alyssa Smith Jewellery Limited
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Alyssa Smith Jewellery Limited filed Critical Alyssa Smith Jewellery Limited
Publication of WO2022269272A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022269272A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C15/00Other forms of jewellery
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • A44C17/0241Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations slidably arranged
    • A44C17/025Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations slidably arranged with the gem sliding along guiding rails
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C25/00Miscellaneous fancy ware for personal wear, e.g. pendants, crosses, crucifixes, charms
    • A44C25/001Pendants
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C25/00Miscellaneous fancy ware for personal wear, e.g. pendants, crosses, crucifixes, charms
    • A44C25/007Charms or amulets
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C9/00Finger-rings

Definitions

  • the present disclosure relates to a jewellery mechanism. Particularly, but not exclusively, the disclosure relates to a jewellery mechanism and a method of manufacturing a jewellery mechanism.
  • Jewellery is a personal ornament intended to be worn by a person on a finger, around the neck, wrist, or other appendage or on the clothing (an example being a broach).
  • Traditional jewellery typically may comprise a piece, such as a precious gemstone or a piece of fine craft (fine casting or carving), fixed to a ring, band, or necklace. Fixing the piece to such articles of jewellery has been done to retain the piece in place to prevent loss or damage.
  • the drawback of traditional jewellery is that they do not react to the user and entertain but instead remain fixed in place, as manufactured.
  • charms such as charm bracelets--allow for some movement of part of the jewellery.
  • the user may fix charms to the outside of a band or bracelet.
  • the charms may be items that are important to the wearer, examples being a cast talisman, a charm with an important date or location on, or a precious stone.
  • Such charms are able to freely move around the band and react to the movement of the wearer.
  • These charms do not remain in the place that the wearer has picked, unless the charms have been fixed in place onto the band by using a clasp or the like. Doing so removes some of the dynamism of the piece of jewellery.
  • Jewellery mechanisms for wearable items of jewellery must be small enough to be worn by the wearer. Heavy mechanisms taken from other fields of design and engineering and applied to the field of jewellery manufacture may cause unwanted strain on a person’s neck, finger, etc due to their weight and bulk. Heavy mechanisms may also damage the wearer due to sharp edges or other such features that would rub or cut skin. Moreover, such heavy mechanisms may not be suitable for manufacture to the small tolerances and sizes necessitated by use in wearable jewellery. Especially as jewellery mechanisms are often made of precious metals, large and heavy mechanisms would be costly to produce and therefore cost more to the purchaser of the jeweller.
  • a jewellery mechanism comprising: a track defining a track opening; a decorative cap; a plate; wherein a portion of the decorative cap is slidably engaged in the track opening; and wherein the decorative cap is attached to the plate such that the track opening is between the decorative cap and the plate thereby enabling the decorative cap to slidably move along the track.
  • the jewellery mechanism is especially suitable for fine tolerance and precision engineering techniques enabling it to be miniaturised suitably for wearing.
  • the jewellery mechanism whilst miniaturised still retains its robustness when being worn by a wearer of the item jewellery having the jewellery mechanism. Further, the jewellery mechanism has a small number of parts reducing the likelihood of the jewellery mechanism becoming damaged or broken.
  • the jewellery mechanism may incorporate a decorative cap particular to the tastes of the wearer of the jewellery.
  • the cap could be in the form of (but not limited to) a car, motorcycle, football, cricket ball, racehorse, gemstone, etc.
  • the choice of design of the cap is therefore decorative and any suitable design may be used.
  • the decorative cap is able to slidably move around the track this gives the wearer the ability to place the decorative cap at a position along the track. For example, in a place that is important for them.
  • the track is a Formula 1 TM track, such as Silverstone TM
  • the wearer could slide the decorative cap to the location of the start/finish line and retain the decorative cap in that location.
  • the user could then move the decorative cap to the location on the track where they met their favourite driver and retain the decorative cap there or alternatively a location of a significant event in their lives (location of a proposal for example).
  • the decorative cap may be a precious gem and the track may be a street grid or the like. The previous gem may be moved by the wearer to a location on the street grid where they had a significant event, such as a first date or wedding.
  • each decorative cap may move independently and be a different design dependent upon the wearer’s tastes.
  • the track at least partially encapsulates the plate.
  • the plate within the track prevents damage to the back of the mechanism and doing so lessens any wiggle or up/down movement of the cap. This also helps secure the decorative cap in position so that it may move freely along the track when manipulated by the wearer, whilst also being able to stay in a position when not moved by the user.
  • the plate is complementary to a portion of the inner volume of the track.
  • the complementary nature of the plate assists in allowing the cap to run smoothly around the device by reducing the likelihood of snags on the inner volume of the track.
  • the decorative cap is able move along the track in a smooth manner.
  • the decorative cap further comprises a sprue, wherein the decorative cap is connected to the plate by the sprue.
  • the sprue fits in the opening of the track.
  • the sprue may be formed during the casting process of the decorative cap.
  • the sprue may be a sprue used to provide material to the mould, for example as part of a lost wax cast.
  • Using the sprue as part of the mechanism reduces wastage and simplifies the manufacturing route as a connector between the plate and decorative cap does not need to be used.
  • Utilising the sprue in this manner reduces wastage which may be extremely costly otherwise when manufacturing in precious metals such as gold, silver and platinum or alloys of those materials.
  • the decorative cap may be connected to the sprue via a screw fit or bayonet type fitting such that the decorative cap may be exchanged for an alternative decorative cap.
  • the plate further comprises a hole.
  • the sprue further comprises a sprue tip complementary in size to the hole.
  • the sprue may fit into the hole to connect the decorative cap and the plate together.
  • the fit may be an interference fit.
  • the sprue tip and plate are connected at the hole by one of: welding or brazing or soldering or friction welding or interference fit or gluing. Such methods retain the plate to the sprue securely.
  • the portion of the decorative cap slidably engaged in the track opening is the sprue.
  • Advantageously placing the decorative cap above the track surface on a sprue reduces the likelihood of the decorative cap scratching the top surface of the track.
  • the track further comprises a track top and a back plate, and wherein the track opening is defined by the track top and the back plate.
  • the track top comprises an inner track and an outer track.
  • Providing the inner and outer track as separate components means that the jewellery mechanism can be more easily manufactured as the sprue, plate and decorative cap be placed between the inner and outer tracks before affixing the back plate.
  • the back plate is connected to the inner track and outer track using one of: welding or brazing or soldering or friction welding or interference fit or gluing. Fixing the back plate using such methods securely fixes the back plate reducing the likelihood of the backplate from falling off in use.
  • a portion of the top surface of the plate a first inner surface of the track abuts when the decorative cap and plate are at an angle Q.
  • the frictional force between the plate and the inner surface of the track prevents the cap from sliding around the track.
  • the abutment of the portion of the top surface of the plate and the first inner surface of the track provides a frictional force suitable for preventing the decorative cap and plate from sliding along the track.
  • the frictional force may be overcome by the wearer easily, but the frictional force is great enough to prevent the decorative cap moving under its own momentum due to gravity.
  • a portion of the bottom surface of the plate and a second inner surface of the track abut when the decorative cap and plate are at an angle.
  • the frictional force between the plate and the inner surface of the track prevents the cap from sliding around the track.
  • the abutment of the portion of the bottom surface of the plate and the second inner surface of the track provides a frictional force suitable for preventing the decorative cap and plate from sliding along the track.
  • the angle Q is between 0.5 to 89 degrees; preferably wherein the angle Q is between 0.5 to 45 degrees; more preferably still wherein the angle Q is between 0.5 to 20 degrees; even more preferably wherein the angle Q is between 0.5 to 10 degrees.
  • the track is a closed loop.
  • the decorative cap may move around the whole extent of the closed loop.
  • the track is an open loop.
  • the decorative cap may move around the whole extent of the open loop.
  • the track is a circle, an oval or an ellipse and wherein the plate is shaped as an annulus sector complementary to the inner volume of the track.
  • the annular sector being complementary to the shape of the circle, oval or ellipse which reduces the chance that the plate may get stuck in the track.
  • the track is an n-sided shape, wherein n is equal to three or more; and wherein the plate is shaped as an n-sided shape of the same value of n.
  • the plate may be a 4-sided shape (square/rectangle/kite) that will run along inside the 4-sided shape of the track.
  • a method of manufacturing a jewellery mechanism comprising the step of providing: a track defining a track opening; a decorative cap; a plate; inserting a portion of the decorative cap such that it is slidably engaged in the track opening; and wherein the decorative cap is attached to the plate such that the track opening is between the decorative cap and the plate; and the further step of at least partially encapsulating the plate in the track.
  • the method of manufacturing a jewellery mechanism, wherein closing the track comprises the step of: welding or brazing or soldering or friction welding or interference fit or gluing a back plate onto the back of the track.
  • the decorative cap further comprises a sprue, wherein the decorative cap is connected to the plate by the sprue.
  • Figure 1 shows an item of jewellery with a jewellery mechanism
  • Figure 2 shows an unassembled jewellery mechanism of Figure 1
  • Figure 3 shows a partially assembled jewellery mechanism of Figure 1
  • Figure 4 shows a cross-sectional view of the jewellery mechanism of Figure 1;
  • Figure 5 shows a further cross-section view of the jewellery mechanism of Figure 1 ;
  • Figure 6 shows a cross-sectional view of a jewellery mechanism with an alternative track and plate shape.
  • Figure 1 shows an item of jewellery 1 with a jewellery mechanism 20.
  • the item of jewellery 1 shown in Figure 1 is a pendant that may be attached to a chain (not shown) via a connector 2.
  • the item of jewellery 1 is to be worn around a person’s neck.
  • the item of jewellery 1 and jewellery mechanism 20 may be implemented as other types of jewellery (ring, band, bangle, cufflink, tiara, etc) without departing from the teaching of the present disclosure.
  • the item of jewellery 1 includes a jewellery mechanism 20 suitable for being worn.
  • the jewellery mechanism 20 is sized to be small enough to prevent hindering the wearer (for example, smaller jewellery mechanisms 20 reduce the likelihood of strain due to weight).
  • the jewellery mechanism 20 is shown in Figure 1-5.
  • the jewellery mechanism 20 comprises a track 10 defining a track opening 18, a decorative cap 22 and a plate 26.
  • the track 10 defines an inner volume (not shown).
  • the decorative cap 22 is attached to the plate 26.
  • the decorative cap 22 and plate 26 are slidably retained on the track 10 within the track opening such that the track opening 18 lies between the decorative cap 22 and plate 26.
  • the plate 26 is located within the inner volume.
  • the track 10 has a track top 11 as shown in Figure 1.
  • the track top 11 is disrupted by the track opening 18.
  • the decorative cap 22 slidably moves along the track top 11 when a force is applied to the decorative cap 22 by the wearer (for example by pushing with a finger).
  • the track top 11 may be a track inner side, track outer side or track bottom that defines the track opening 18 such that the decorative cap may move along the track inner side, track outer side or track bottom.
  • the track comprises an inner track 12, an outer track 14 and a backplate 16.
  • the inner track 12 and outer track 14 are fixed to the backplate 16.
  • the fixing is preferably undertaken using soldering. In alternate embodiments the fixing may be undertaken using welding, brazing, friction welding, interference fit or gluing.
  • the track 10 has a first inner surface 13 and a second inner surface 15 shown in Figures 2,
  • the first inner surface 13 is located on the “top” of the inner volume on an inner face of the inner track 12 and outer track 14.
  • the first inner surface 13 is disrupted by the track opening 18 into inner track inner surfaces 13a and outer track inner surface 13b shown in Figure 2-5.
  • the second inner surface 15 is located on a face of the backplate 16.
  • the track may have an optional loop 4 and connector 2.
  • the loop 4 may be fixed to the track 10 by soldering.
  • the loop 4 and connector 2 are to facilitate hanging the item of jewellery 1 from a chain or necklace (not shown). In alternate embodiments the fixing may be undertaken using welding, brazing, friction welding, interference fit or gluing.
  • the inner track 12 and outer track 14 define the track opening 18 as shown in Figure 1.
  • the track opening 18 is substantially along the “centreline” of the track 10 shape.
  • the track opening 18 may be located along the centreline / medial axis transform / skeleton line of the shape itself.
  • the track 10 is a closed loop.
  • the track is a circle.
  • alternative track shapes may be employed.
  • the track is substantially square.
  • the track may be similar to a circuit of a racetrack or in the shape of a letter or grid.
  • the decorative cap 22 may be in the shape of a car, motorcycle, ball, racehorse, or other such shape.
  • the shape may be manufactured by lost wax casting.
  • the decorative cap 22 may be a precious stone set in a gem setting such as a claw setting.
  • the decorative cap 22 has a sprue 24 with a sprue tip 25 as shown in Figure 2.
  • the sprue 24 is continuous with the rest of the body of the decorative cap 22.
  • the sprue 24 is connected to the body of the decorative cap 22 at one end and the sprue tip 25 is located at the opposite end.
  • the decorative cap may be connected to the sprue via a screw fit or bayonet type fitting such that the decorative cap may be exchanged for an alternative decorative cap for example, the motorbike of Figure 1 with the car of Figure 4.
  • the plate 26 comprises a top surface 27, a bottom surface 29 and a hole 28.
  • the top surface 27 of the plate 26 faces the first inner surface 13 of the track 10.
  • the bottom surface 29 of the plate 26 faces the second inner surface 15 of the track.
  • the hole 28 sized to fit the sprue tip 25.
  • the sprue tip 25 and hole 28 connect the decorative cap 22 to the plate 26.
  • the connection may be made by soldering.
  • the fixing may be undertaken using welding, brazing, friction welding, interference fit or gluing.
  • the sprue 24 is sized to slidably fit in the track opening 18 such that the decorative cap 22 and plate 26 may move along the track 10.
  • Figure 4 shows the arrangement of the sprue 24 within the track opening 18 in cross-section.
  • the plate 26 is preferably shaped to be complementary to the inner volume of the track 10.
  • the plate 26 is an annular segment complementary to the annular region defined by the inner track 12 and outer track 14.
  • the complementary shape of the plate 26 reduces the likelihood of snagging of the plate 26 on the inner surface of the track 10.
  • Figure 3 shows the complementary arrangement of the plate 26 fitting between the inner track 12 and outer track 14.
  • the tolerance between the top surface 27 of the plate 26 and the first inner surface 13 is small such that the decorative cap 22 may only move when the plate 26 is substantially parallel to the AA axis as shown in Figure 4.
  • the tolerance shown in Figure 4 is exaggerated for ease of view and teaching the invention and is therefore not to scale.
  • the tolerance may be between 1 to 100 pm. More preferably the tolerance may be between 1 to 50 pm.
  • the tolerance between the bottom surface 29 of the plate 26 and the second inner surface 15 is small such that the decorative cap 22 may only move when the plate 26 is substantially parallel to the AA axis as shown in Figure 4.
  • the tolerance shown in Figure 4 is exaggerated for ease of view and teaching the invention and is therefore is not to scale.
  • the tolerance may be between 1 to 100 pm. More preferably the tolerance may be between 1 to 50 pm.
  • the plate 26 when stationary turns through an angle Q such that the plate axis moves from being parallel to line AA to line BB as shown in Figure 5. This causes the top surface 27 of the plate 26 to abut with the first inner surface 13 of the track 10 and causes the bottom surface 29 of the plate 26 to abut with the second inner surface 15 of the track 10.
  • the turning of the plate 26 and decorative cap 26 may be undertaken due to the force of gravity, indicated by “g” in Figure 5.
  • the frictional force caused by engagement of the plate 26 and the inner surfaces 13, 15 of the track 10 prevents movement of the plate 26 and decorative cap 26 when the wearer does not want it to move.
  • the plate 26 turns through an angle Q in order for the frictional forces stopping movement of the decorative cap 22 to be obtained.
  • the decorative cap 22 may turn under the force of gravity through the angle causing engagement of the plate 26 with the first inner surface 13 and second inner surface 15 (as shown in Figure 5).
  • the jewellery mechanism 20 acts as an automatic retention mechanism that does not require the user to actively retain the decorative cap 22 in a specific location, whilst still allowing the user to manipulate the decorative cap 22 into other positions along the track.
  • the angle Q is between 0.5 to 89 degrees; preferably wherein the angle Q is between 0.5 to 45 degrees; more preferably still wherein the angle Q is between 0.5 to 20 degrees; even more preferably wherein the angle Q is between 0.5 to 10 degrees, most preferably 0.5 to 5 degrees.
  • a sufficient frictional force may be provided by engagement of the plate 26 with one of the first inner surface 13 or the second inner surface 15 alone when the plate moves through angle Q.
  • a sufficient frictional force may be provided between a side of plate 26 and an inner wall of the track 10 when the plate moves through the angle Q.
  • a front side of the plate 26 and the inner wall of track 10 may abut to provide the frictional force when the plate moves through the angle Q.
  • a rear side of the plate 26 and the inner wall of track 10 may abut to provide the frictional force when the plate moves through the angle Q.
  • a left side of the plate 26 and the inner wall of track 10 may abut to provide the frictional force when the plate moves through the angle Q.
  • a right side of the plate 26 and the inner wall of track 10 may abut to provide the frictional force when the plate moves through the angle Q.
  • a combination of two or more sides of the plate 26 and inner wall of the track 10 could provide the sufficient frictional force, for example, the front of the plate 26 may interact with a portion of the inner wall of track 10 and the rear of the plate 26 may interact with a second portion of the inner wall of track 10 when the plate moves through angle Q.
  • more than one decorative cap 22 may be provided on a single track 10. In such cases the two or more decorative caps 22 may move independently of each other.
  • a single decorative cap 22 may be provided which has two or more sprues 24 and plates 26 such that the single decorative cap 22 is slidably retained in two or more places on the track 10 dependent upon number of sprues 24 and plates 26.
  • the item of jewellery 1 is a pendant.
  • the invention may be implemented as a ring, bracelet, anklet, bangle, broach, charm, pin, badge, or other item of wearable jewellery. It will be clear to the skilled person how to implement the teaching of the present disclosure with these alternate items of jewellery.
  • the plate 126 is shaped to be complementary to the inner volume of the track 110.
  • the track 110 is an n-sided shape, (and n is equal to three or more) the plate 126 is shaped as an n-sided shape of the same value of n.
  • the track 10 shape may be a regular or irregular shape. In such cases the plate 126 is sized to permit movement of the plate 126 through the inner volume of the track 110.
  • the track 10 may alternatively be in the shape of a motor racing track, for example a Formula 1 TM circuit like Silverstone TM.
  • the jewellery mechanism 20 of the present invention is suitable for providing a moveable decorative cap 22 that can move around the tight corners of a miniaturised track shape (e.g. hairpin bends and the like).
  • the track 210 may be in the shape of a letter or number or combination of letters and numbers or a word or phrase.
  • the track opening 218 in such an embodiment may be approximately along the centreline / medial axis transform / skeleton line of the shape itself.
  • the method of manufacturing a jewellery mechanism 20 comprises the step of providing a track 10 that has a track opening 18, a decorative cap 22 and a plate 26.
  • the track 10 may be manufactured using known manufacturing techniques, for example machining metal sheets to the appropriate shape required and cutting therefrom a track opening 18 into the sheet.
  • the track 10 is made up of three components: an inner track 12, an outer track 14 and a back plate 16.
  • the decorative cap 22 may be manufactured using casting. For example, a lost wax casting method or investment casting or a die-casting method or sand casting. Alternative casting methods may be employed by the skilled person without departing from the teaching of the invention.
  • Multiple decorative caps 22 may be cast at once using a casting tree with the decorative caps 22 branching from a feed sprue located off the main sprue and feed cap.
  • the feed sprue may be employed as a sprue 24 of the embodiment of Figure 1 to reduce wastage and produce as close to as a near net-shape component as possible. As such the sprue 24 is continuous with the decorative cap 22.
  • a sprue 24 may be attached to the base of the decorative cap 22.
  • the decorative cap 22 may be machined from cast material such a billet, bullion, or other pre-cast alloys or ingots.
  • the decorative cap 22 may be a precious gemstone set in a gem setting such as a claw setting (other settings may be used and a claw setting is provided simply as an example).
  • the sprue 24 may extend from the bottom of the gem setting.
  • the plate 26 may be cut from sheet metal or cast.
  • the plate has a hole 28.
  • the hole 28 is sized to retain a portion of the sprue 24.
  • the decorative cap 22, sprue 24 and plate 26 may be cast or machined as a single component.
  • the decorative cap 22 is then attached to the plate 26 via the sprue 24 at the sprue tip 25 and hole 28.
  • the plate 26 may be retained via an interference fit between the hole 28 and the sprue tip 25.
  • the plate 26 may be brazed, welded, soldered, glued (or fixed by some alternative means) to the sprue 24.
  • the decorative cap 22 is then inserted between the inner track 12 and outer track 14 as shown in Figure 3 such that the plate 26 is slidably retained between the inner track 12 and outer track 14.
  • the decorative cap 22 is located adjacent the track top 11.
  • the track 10 is thus located between the decorative cap 22 and the plate 26 with the sprue 24 extending through the track opening 18.
  • the track 10 at least partially encapsulates the plate 26 within the track 10.
  • the backplate 16 is then be fixed to the back of the jewellery mechanism 20.
  • the backplate 16 is then fixed to the inner and outer tracks 12, 14 by welding or brazing or soldering or friction welding or interference fit or gluing.
  • the jewellery mechanism 20 may then be cleaned to remove any excess weld lines and polished.
  • the jewellery mechanism 20 is preferably manufactured from a precious metal (or alloy of a precious metal), such as (but not limited to): gold, rose gold, white gold, silver, sterling silver, platinum, titanium, palladium or other known alloys or mixtures thereof containing those components.
  • the jewellery mechanism 20 is manufactured from a material that reduces scratching between the components. Contact between the bottom of the decorative cap 22 and the track top 11 may cause scratching in use.
  • materials of similar hardness similar Mohs’ hardness, Vickers hardness (HV), Diamond Pyramid Hardness (DPH) or other hardness measurement method
  • a 18k white gold decorative cap 22 may be used with a track 10 also made from 18k white gold.
  • 18k white gold has a hardness value of 210 HV.
  • the decorative cap 22 is a gemstone in a setting, such as a claw setting
  • the claw setting may be made of the same material as the track 10.
  • the track 10 For example, an 18k white gold claw setting and an 18k white gold track 10.
  • the jewellery mechanism 20 may be made from other metals.
  • the jewellery mechanism 20 may be manufactured from other materials such as plastics, glasses, quartz, carbon fibre, composites, ceramics, stones, minerals, wood, or other such material.
  • the manufacturing method can thereby be adapted to the specific material.
  • the track 10 and other components may be manufactured by hot isostatic pressing or other ceramic manufacturing methods.
  • the track 10 and other components may be manufactured via casting or glass machining or other suitable manufacturing methods.
  • the jewellery mechanism 20 may be manufactured via additive manufacturing techniques. In such cases the jewellery mechanism 20 may be manufactured as separate components to be assembled as above or manufactured as a single component (either net-shape or near net-shape). NUMBER ITEM

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Abstract

A jewellery mechanism (20) comprising: a track (10) defining a track opening (18); a decorative cap (22); a plate (26); wherein a portion of the decorative cap (22) is slidably engaged in the track opening (18); and wherein the decorative cap (22) is attached to the plate (26) such that the track opening (18) is between the decorative cap (22) and the plate (26) thereby enabling the decorative cap (22) to slidably move along the track.

Description

JEWELLERY MECHANISM
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present disclosure relates to a jewellery mechanism. Particularly, but not exclusively, the disclosure relates to a jewellery mechanism and a method of manufacturing a jewellery mechanism.
BACKGROUND
Jewellery is a personal ornament intended to be worn by a person on a finger, around the neck, wrist, or other appendage or on the clothing (an example being a broach).
Traditional jewellery typically may comprise a piece, such as a precious gemstone or a piece of fine craft (fine casting or carving), fixed to a ring, band, or necklace. Fixing the piece to such articles of jewellery has been done to retain the piece in place to prevent loss or damage. The drawback of traditional jewellery is that they do not react to the user and entertain but instead remain fixed in place, as manufactured.
Other, more modern, types of jewel lery--such as charm bracelets--allow for some movement of part of the jewellery. For example, the user may fix charms to the outside of a band or bracelet. The charms may be items that are important to the wearer, examples being a cast talisman, a charm with an important date or location on, or a precious stone. Such charms are able to freely move around the band and react to the movement of the wearer. These charms do not remain in the place that the wearer has picked, unless the charms have been fixed in place onto the band by using a clasp or the like. Doing so removes some of the dynamism of the piece of jewellery.
Jewellery mechanisms for wearable items of jewellery must be small enough to be worn by the wearer. Heavy mechanisms taken from other fields of design and engineering and applied to the field of jewellery manufacture may cause unwanted strain on a person’s neck, finger, etc due to their weight and bulk. Heavy mechanisms may also damage the wearer due to sharp edges or other such features that would rub or cut skin. Moreover, such heavy mechanisms may not be suitable for manufacture to the small tolerances and sizes necessitated by use in wearable jewellery. Especially as jewellery mechanisms are often made of precious metals, large and heavy mechanisms would be costly to produce and therefore cost more to the purchaser of the jeweller.
As such, there is a need for a new jewellery mechanism that overcomes the drawbacks of current jewellery mechanisms.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
A jewellery mechanism comprising: a track defining a track opening; a decorative cap; a plate; wherein a portion of the decorative cap is slidably engaged in the track opening; and wherein the decorative cap is attached to the plate such that the track opening is between the decorative cap and the plate thereby enabling the decorative cap to slidably move along the track.
The jewellery mechanism is especially suitable for fine tolerance and precision engineering techniques enabling it to be miniaturised suitably for wearing. The jewellery mechanism, whilst miniaturised still retains its robustness when being worn by a wearer of the item jewellery having the jewellery mechanism. Further, the jewellery mechanism has a small number of parts reducing the likelihood of the jewellery mechanism becoming damaged or broken.
Advantageously the jewellery mechanism may incorporate a decorative cap particular to the tastes of the wearer of the jewellery. For example, the cap could be in the form of (but not limited to) a car, motorcycle, football, cricket ball, racehorse, gemstone, etc. The choice of design of the cap is therefore decorative and any suitable design may be used.
The decorative cap is able to slidably move around the track this gives the wearer the ability to place the decorative cap at a position along the track. For example, in a place that is important for them. For example, in the instance where the track is a Formula 1 TM track, such as Silverstone TM, the wearer could slide the decorative cap to the location of the start/finish line and retain the decorative cap in that location. The user could then move the decorative cap to the location on the track where they met their favourite driver and retain the decorative cap there or alternatively a location of a significant event in their lives (location of a proposal for example). In another example, the decorative cap may be a precious gem and the track may be a street grid or the like. The previous gem may be moved by the wearer to a location on the street grid where they had a significant event, such as a first date or wedding.
Multiple decorative caps may be provided each with their own plate, each decorative cap may move independently and be a different design dependent upon the wearer’s tastes.
The track at least partially encapsulates the plate.
Advantageously locating the plate within the track prevents damage to the back of the mechanism and doing so lessens any wiggle or up/down movement of the cap. This also helps secure the decorative cap in position so that it may move freely along the track when manipulated by the wearer, whilst also being able to stay in a position when not moved by the user.
Advantageously, the plate is complementary to a portion of the inner volume of the track. The complementary nature of the plate assists in allowing the cap to run smoothly around the device by reducing the likelihood of snags on the inner volume of the track. Thus, the decorative cap is able move along the track in a smooth manner.
Optionally, the decorative cap further comprises a sprue, wherein the decorative cap is connected to the plate by the sprue. The sprue fits in the opening of the track. The sprue may be formed during the casting process of the decorative cap. For example, the sprue may be a sprue used to provide material to the mould, for example as part of a lost wax cast. Using the sprue as part of the mechanism reduces wastage and simplifies the manufacturing route as a connector between the plate and decorative cap does not need to be used. Utilising the sprue in this manner reduces wastage which may be extremely costly otherwise when manufacturing in precious metals such as gold, silver and platinum or alloys of those materials.
The decorative cap may be connected to the sprue via a screw fit or bayonet type fitting such that the decorative cap may be exchanged for an alternative decorative cap.
The plate further comprises a hole. The sprue further comprises a sprue tip complementary in size to the hole. Advantageously the sprue may fit into the hole to connect the decorative cap and the plate together. The fit may be an interference fit.
The sprue tip and plate are connected at the hole by one of: welding or brazing or soldering or friction welding or interference fit or gluing. Such methods retain the plate to the sprue securely.
The portion of the decorative cap slidably engaged in the track opening is the sprue. Advantageously placing the decorative cap above the track surface on a sprue reduces the likelihood of the decorative cap scratching the top surface of the track.
The track further comprises a track top and a back plate, and wherein the track opening is defined by the track top and the back plate.
The track top comprises an inner track and an outer track. Providing the inner and outer track as separate components means that the jewellery mechanism can be more easily manufactured as the sprue, plate and decorative cap be placed between the inner and outer tracks before affixing the back plate.
The back plate is connected to the inner track and outer track using one of: welding or brazing or soldering or friction welding or interference fit or gluing. Fixing the back plate using such methods securely fixes the back plate reducing the likelihood of the backplate from falling off in use.
A portion of the top surface of the plate a first inner surface of the track abuts when the decorative cap and plate are at an angle Q. Advantageously, the frictional force between the plate and the inner surface of the track prevents the cap from sliding around the track.
The abutment of the portion of the top surface of the plate and the first inner surface of the track provides a frictional force suitable for preventing the decorative cap and plate from sliding along the track. Advantageously the frictional force may be overcome by the wearer easily, but the frictional force is great enough to prevent the decorative cap moving under its own momentum due to gravity.
A portion of the bottom surface of the plate and a second inner surface of the track abut when the decorative cap and plate are at an angle. Advantageously, the frictional force between the plate and the inner surface of the track prevents the cap from sliding around the track.
The abutment of the portion of the bottom surface of the plate and the second inner surface of the track provides a frictional force suitable for preventing the decorative cap and plate from sliding along the track.
The angle Q is between 0.5 to 89 degrees; preferably wherein the angle Q is between 0.5 to 45 degrees; more preferably still wherein the angle Q is between 0.5 to 20 degrees; even more preferably wherein the angle Q is between 0.5 to 10 degrees. When the piece of decorative cap is sitting upright in the track then it can move along the track by the person pushing the cap along. But, when the device is not being pushed the cap, sprue and plate will naturally tilt under gravity and the frictional force will prevent the cap from moving along the track.
The track is a closed loop. Advantageously, the decorative cap may move around the whole extent of the closed loop.
In an alternative embodiment the track is an open loop. Advantageously, the decorative cap may move around the whole extent of the open loop.
In one embodiment the track is a circle, an oval or an ellipse and wherein the plate is shaped as an annulus sector complementary to the inner volume of the track. The annular sector being complementary to the shape of the circle, oval or ellipse which reduces the chance that the plate may get stuck in the track.
In an alternative embodiment, the track is an n-sided shape, wherein n is equal to three or more; and wherein the plate is shaped as an n-sided shape of the same value of n. For example, the plate may be a 4-sided shape (square/rectangle/kite) that will run along inside the 4-sided shape of the track.
In a second aspect of the invention there is described a method of manufacturing a jewellery mechanism, the method comprising the step of providing: a track defining a track opening; a decorative cap; a plate; inserting a portion of the decorative cap such that it is slidably engaged in the track opening; and wherein the decorative cap is attached to the plate such that the track opening is between the decorative cap and the plate; and the further step of at least partially encapsulating the plate in the track.
The method of manufacturing a jewellery mechanism, wherein closing the track comprises the step of: welding or brazing or soldering or friction welding or interference fit or gluing a back plate onto the back of the track.
The decorative cap further comprises a sprue, wherein the decorative cap is connected to the plate by the sprue.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
One or more embodiments of the invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:
Figure 1 shows an item of jewellery with a jewellery mechanism;
Figure 2 shows an unassembled jewellery mechanism of Figure 1;
Figure 3 shows a partially assembled jewellery mechanism of Figure 1;
Figure 4 shows a cross-sectional view of the jewellery mechanism of Figure 1;
Figure 5 shows a further cross-section view of the jewellery mechanism of Figure 1 ; and
Figure 6 shows a cross-sectional view of a jewellery mechanism with an alternative track and plate shape.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
The invention will be herein described with the aid of Figures 1 to 6.
Figure 1 shows an item of jewellery 1 with a jewellery mechanism 20. The item of jewellery 1 shown in Figure 1 is a pendant that may be attached to a chain (not shown) via a connector 2. The item of jewellery 1 is to be worn around a person’s neck. In alternative embodiments the item of jewellery 1 and jewellery mechanism 20 may be implemented as other types of jewellery (ring, band, bangle, cufflink, tiara, etc) without departing from the teaching of the present disclosure. In each case the item of jewellery 1 includes a jewellery mechanism 20 suitable for being worn. The jewellery mechanism 20 is sized to be small enough to prevent hindering the wearer (for example, smaller jewellery mechanisms 20 reduce the likelihood of strain due to weight).
The jewellery mechanism 20 is shown in Figure 1-5. The jewellery mechanism 20 comprises a track 10 defining a track opening 18, a decorative cap 22 and a plate 26.
An example of the track 10 is shown in Figure 1. The track 10 defines an inner volume (not shown).
The decorative cap 22 is attached to the plate 26. The decorative cap 22 and plate 26 are slidably retained on the track 10 within the track opening such that the track opening 18 lies between the decorative cap 22 and plate 26. The plate 26 is located within the inner volume.
The track 10 has a track top 11 as shown in Figure 1. The track top 11 is disrupted by the track opening 18.
In the embodiment shown in Figure 1 the decorative cap 22 slidably moves along the track top 11 when a force is applied to the decorative cap 22 by the wearer (for example by pushing with a finger). In alternative embodiments the track top 11 may be a track inner side, track outer side or track bottom that defines the track opening 18 such that the decorative cap may move along the track inner side, track outer side or track bottom.
The track comprises an inner track 12, an outer track 14 and a backplate 16. The inner track 12 and outer track 14 are fixed to the backplate 16. The fixing is preferably undertaken using soldering. In alternate embodiments the fixing may be undertaken using welding, brazing, friction welding, interference fit or gluing.
The track 10 has a first inner surface 13 and a second inner surface 15 shown in Figures 2,
4 and 5. The first inner surface 13 is located on the “top” of the inner volume on an inner face of the inner track 12 and outer track 14. The first inner surface 13 is disrupted by the track opening 18 into inner track inner surfaces 13a and outer track inner surface 13b shown in Figure 2-5. The second inner surface 15 is located on a face of the backplate 16. The track may have an optional loop 4 and connector 2. The loop 4 may be fixed to the track 10 by soldering. The loop 4 and connector 2 are to facilitate hanging the item of jewellery 1 from a chain or necklace (not shown). In alternate embodiments the fixing may be undertaken using welding, brazing, friction welding, interference fit or gluing.
The inner track 12 and outer track 14 define the track opening 18 as shown in Figure 1.
The track opening 18 is substantially along the “centreline” of the track 10 shape. The track opening 18 may be located along the centreline / medial axis transform / skeleton line of the shape itself.
The track 10 is a closed loop. In the embodiment shown in Figure 1 the track is a circle. In alternative embodiments alternative track shapes may be employed. In the embodiment shown in Figure 6 the track is substantially square. In other embodiments the track may be similar to a circuit of a racetrack or in the shape of a letter or grid.
Returning to Figures 1 to 5, the decorative cap 22 may be in the shape of a car, motorcycle, ball, racehorse, or other such shape. The shape may be manufactured by lost wax casting. In alternative embodiments the decorative cap 22 may be a precious stone set in a gem setting such as a claw setting.
The decorative cap 22 has a sprue 24 with a sprue tip 25 as shown in Figure 2. The sprue 24 is continuous with the rest of the body of the decorative cap 22. The sprue 24 is connected to the body of the decorative cap 22 at one end and the sprue tip 25 is located at the opposite end.
In alternative embodiments the decorative cap may be connected to the sprue via a screw fit or bayonet type fitting such that the decorative cap may be exchanged for an alternative decorative cap for example, the motorbike of Figure 1 with the car of Figure 4.
The plate 26 comprises a top surface 27, a bottom surface 29 and a hole 28.
The top surface 27 of the plate 26 faces the first inner surface 13 of the track 10.
The bottom surface 29 of the plate 26 faces the second inner surface 15 of the track. The hole 28 sized to fit the sprue tip 25. The sprue tip 25 and hole 28 connect the decorative cap 22 to the plate 26. The connection may be made by soldering. In alternate embodiments the fixing may be undertaken using welding, brazing, friction welding, interference fit or gluing.
The sprue 24 is sized to slidably fit in the track opening 18 such that the decorative cap 22 and plate 26 may move along the track 10. Figure 4 shows the arrangement of the sprue 24 within the track opening 18 in cross-section.
The plate 26 is preferably shaped to be complementary to the inner volume of the track 10. In the embodiment shown in Figures 1-5 the plate 26 is an annular segment complementary to the annular region defined by the inner track 12 and outer track 14. The complementary shape of the plate 26 reduces the likelihood of snagging of the plate 26 on the inner surface of the track 10. Figure 3 shows the complementary arrangement of the plate 26 fitting between the inner track 12 and outer track 14.
The tolerance between the top surface 27 of the plate 26 and the first inner surface 13 is small such that the decorative cap 22 may only move when the plate 26 is substantially parallel to the AA axis as shown in Figure 4. The tolerance shown in Figure 4 is exaggerated for ease of view and teaching the invention and is therefore not to scale. The tolerance may be between 1 to 100 pm. More preferably the tolerance may be between 1 to 50 pm.
The tolerance between the bottom surface 29 of the plate 26 and the second inner surface 15 is small such that the decorative cap 22 may only move when the plate 26 is substantially parallel to the AA axis as shown in Figure 4. The tolerance shown in Figure 4 is exaggerated for ease of view and teaching the invention and is therefore is not to scale. The tolerance may be between 1 to 100 pm. More preferably the tolerance may be between 1 to 50 pm.
When the user wishes to move the decorative cap 22 they may do so by pushing the decorative cap 22 around the track 10 using a finger or other implement. When the user has moved the decorative cap 22 to the location they wish for it to remain in the decorative cap 22 is kept in place as shown in Figure 5.
The plate 26 when stationary turns through an angle Q such that the plate axis moves from being parallel to line AA to line BB as shown in Figure 5. This causes the top surface 27 of the plate 26 to abut with the first inner surface 13 of the track 10 and causes the bottom surface 29 of the plate 26 to abut with the second inner surface 15 of the track 10. The turning of the plate 26 and decorative cap 26 may be undertaken due to the force of gravity, indicated by “g” in Figure 5.
The frictional force caused by engagement of the plate 26 and the inner surfaces 13, 15 of the track 10 prevents movement of the plate 26 and decorative cap 26 when the wearer does not want it to move.
Due to the small tolerances between the top surface 27 of the plate 26 and the first inner surface 13, and the bottom surface 29 of the plate 26 and the second inner surface 15 the plate 26 turns through an angle Q in order for the frictional forces stopping movement of the decorative cap 22 to be obtained. For example, after the wearer has finished pushing the decorative cap 22 the decorative cap 22 may turn under the force of gravity through the angle causing engagement of the plate 26 with the first inner surface 13 and second inner surface 15 (as shown in Figure 5). The jewellery mechanism 20 as such acts as an automatic retention mechanism that does not require the user to actively retain the decorative cap 22 in a specific location, whilst still allowing the user to manipulate the decorative cap 22 into other positions along the track.
The angle Q is between 0.5 to 89 degrees; preferably wherein the angle Q is between 0.5 to 45 degrees; more preferably still wherein the angle Q is between 0.5 to 20 degrees; even more preferably wherein the angle Q is between 0.5 to 10 degrees, most preferably 0.5 to 5 degrees.
In the case shown in Figure 5 the engagement is caused between the outer track inner surface 13b and the top surface 27. In the alternative case where the gravity vector is antiparallel (i.e. g pointing to the top of Figure 5) then the top surface 27 would engage with the inner track inner surface 13a. In the case where the gravity vector is pointing into or out of the page both the first inner surfaces 13a, 13b may engage with the top surface 27 of the plate 26. Alternatively, or where the gravity vector g is at an angle not above described, then a suitable combination of the inner surfaces 13, 15 and plate surfaces 27, 29 may retain the plate 26 and decorative cap 22 in place.
Alternatively, a sufficient frictional force may be provided by engagement of the plate 26 with one of the first inner surface 13 or the second inner surface 15 alone when the plate moves through angle Q. Alternatively, or in combination with the above, a sufficient frictional force may be provided between a side of plate 26 and an inner wall of the track 10 when the plate moves through the angle Q. For example, a front side of the plate 26 and the inner wall of track 10 may abut to provide the frictional force when the plate moves through the angle Q. Or, a rear side of the plate 26 and the inner wall of track 10 may abut to provide the frictional force when the plate moves through the angle Q. Or, a left side of the plate 26 and the inner wall of track 10 may abut to provide the frictional force when the plate moves through the angle Q. Or, a right side of the plate 26 and the inner wall of track 10 may abut to provide the frictional force when the plate moves through the angle Q. A combination of two or more sides of the plate 26 and inner wall of the track 10 could provide the sufficient frictional force, for example, the front of the plate 26 may interact with a portion of the inner wall of track 10 and the rear of the plate 26 may interact with a second portion of the inner wall of track 10 when the plate moves through angle Q.
In alternative embodiments more than one decorative cap 22 may be provided on a single track 10. In such cases the two or more decorative caps 22 may move independently of each other. Alternatively, a single decorative cap 22 may be provided which has two or more sprues 24 and plates 26 such that the single decorative cap 22 is slidably retained in two or more places on the track 10 dependent upon number of sprues 24 and plates 26.
In the present invention described in Figures 1-5 the item of jewellery 1 is a pendant. In alternative embodiments the invention may be implemented as a ring, bracelet, anklet, bangle, broach, charm, pin, badge, or other item of wearable jewellery. It will be clear to the skilled person how to implement the teaching of the present disclosure with these alternate items of jewellery.
Alternative Track Shapes
In alternative embodiments where the track is a different shape, for example the square track of Figure 6, the plate 126 is shaped to be complementary to the inner volume of the track 110. When the track 110 is an n-sided shape, (and n is equal to three or more) the plate 126 is shaped as an n-sided shape of the same value of n. For example, the square plate 126 in Figure 6 (n = 4), or the plate 26 may be triangular for a triangular track 10 (n = 3). The track 10 shape may be a regular or irregular shape. In such cases the plate 126 is sized to permit movement of the plate 126 through the inner volume of the track 110. The track 10 may alternatively be in the shape of a motor racing track, for example a Formula 1 TM circuit like Silverstone TM. Advantageously, the jewellery mechanism 20 of the present invention is suitable for providing a moveable decorative cap 22 that can move around the tight corners of a miniaturised track shape (e.g. hairpin bends and the like).
Alternatively, the track 210 may be in the shape of a letter or number or combination of letters and numbers or a word or phrase. The track opening 218 in such an embodiment may be approximately along the centreline / medial axis transform / skeleton line of the shape itself.
Manufacturing of the Jewellery Mechanism
A method of manufacturing an item of jewellery 1 incorporating the jewellery mechanism 20 as described above will now be discussed with the aid of Figures 1 to 5.
The method of manufacturing a jewellery mechanism 20 comprises the step of providing a track 10 that has a track opening 18, a decorative cap 22 and a plate 26.
The track 10 may be manufactured using known manufacturing techniques, for example machining metal sheets to the appropriate shape required and cutting therefrom a track opening 18 into the sheet. In the embodiment shown in Figure 2 the track 10 is made up of three components: an inner track 12, an outer track 14 and a back plate 16.
The decorative cap 22 may be manufactured using casting. For example, a lost wax casting method or investment casting or a die-casting method or sand casting. Alternative casting methods may be employed by the skilled person without departing from the teaching of the invention. Multiple decorative caps 22 may be cast at once using a casting tree with the decorative caps 22 branching from a feed sprue located off the main sprue and feed cap. The feed sprue may be employed as a sprue 24 of the embodiment of Figure 1 to reduce wastage and produce as close to as a near net-shape component as possible. As such the sprue 24 is continuous with the decorative cap 22. Alternatively, a sprue 24 may be attached to the base of the decorative cap 22.
Alternatively, the decorative cap 22 may be machined from cast material such a billet, bullion, or other pre-cast alloys or ingots. Alternatively, the decorative cap 22 may be a precious gemstone set in a gem setting such as a claw setting (other settings may be used and a claw setting is provided simply as an example). In such an embodiment the sprue 24 may extend from the bottom of the gem setting.
The plate 26 may be cut from sheet metal or cast. The plate has a hole 28. The hole 28 is sized to retain a portion of the sprue 24.
In other embodiments the decorative cap 22, sprue 24 and plate 26 may be cast or machined as a single component.
The decorative cap 22 is then attached to the plate 26 via the sprue 24 at the sprue tip 25 and hole 28. The plate 26 may be retained via an interference fit between the hole 28 and the sprue tip 25. Alternatively, the plate 26 may be brazed, welded, soldered, glued (or fixed by some alternative means) to the sprue 24.
The decorative cap 22 is then inserted between the inner track 12 and outer track 14 as shown in Figure 3 such that the plate 26 is slidably retained between the inner track 12 and outer track 14. The decorative cap 22 is located adjacent the track top 11.
The track 10 is thus located between the decorative cap 22 and the plate 26 with the sprue 24 extending through the track opening 18.
The track 10 at least partially encapsulates the plate 26 within the track 10.
The backplate 16 is then be fixed to the back of the jewellery mechanism 20. The backplate 16 is then fixed to the inner and outer tracks 12, 14 by welding or brazing or soldering or friction welding or interference fit or gluing.
The jewellery mechanism 20 may then be cleaned to remove any excess weld lines and polished.
In the present embodiment shown in Figures 1 - 5 the jewellery mechanism 20 is preferably manufactured from a precious metal (or alloy of a precious metal), such as (but not limited to): gold, rose gold, white gold, silver, sterling silver, platinum, titanium, palladium or other known alloys or mixtures thereof containing those components. Preferably the jewellery mechanism 20 is manufactured from a material that reduces scratching between the components. Contact between the bottom of the decorative cap 22 and the track top 11 may cause scratching in use. As such materials of similar hardness (similar Mohs’ hardness, Vickers hardness (HV), Diamond Pyramid Hardness (DPH) or other hardness measurement method) may be selected by the manufacture to reduce the likelihood of scratching when the jewellery mechanism 20 is in use. For example, a 18k white gold decorative cap 22 may be used with a track 10 also made from 18k white gold. 18k white gold has a hardness value of 210 HV.
Where the decorative cap 22 is a gemstone in a setting, such as a claw setting, the claw setting may be made of the same material as the track 10. For example, an 18k white gold claw setting and an 18k white gold track 10.
Alternatively, the jewellery mechanism 20 may be made from other metals. For example, stainless steels, steels, aluminium alloys, copper alloys, brass or other such alloys or mixtures thereof containing those components.
In alternative embodiments the jewellery mechanism 20 (or components thereof) may be manufactured from other materials such as plastics, glasses, quartz, carbon fibre, composites, ceramics, stones, minerals, wood, or other such material. The manufacturing method can thereby be adapted to the specific material. For example, for a ceramic, the track 10 and other components may be manufactured by hot isostatic pressing or other ceramic manufacturing methods. For a quartz track the track 10 and other components may be manufactured via casting or glass machining or other suitable manufacturing methods.
In alternative embodiments the jewellery mechanism 20 may be manufactured via additive manufacturing techniques. In such cases the jewellery mechanism 20 may be manufactured as separate components to be assembled as above or manufactured as a single component (either net-shape or near net-shape). NUMBER ITEM
AA AXIS
1 ITEM OF JEWELLERY
2 CONNECTOR 4 LOOP
10 TRACK
11 TRACK TOP
12 INNER TRACK
13 FIRST INNER SURFACE 13A INNER TRACK INNER SURFACE
13B OUTER TRACK INNER SURFACE
14 OUTER TRACK
15 SECOND INNER SURFACE
16 BACKPLATE 18 TRACK OPENING
20 JEWELLERY MECHANISM 22 DECORATIVE CAP
24 SPRUE
25 SPRUE TIP 26 PLATE
27 TOP SURFACE
28 HOLE
29 BOTTOM SURFACE
30 GEM SETTING

Claims

1. A jewellery mechanism (20) comprising: a track (10) defining a track opening (18); a decorative cap (22); a plate (26); wherein a portion of the decorative cap (22) is slidably engaged in the track opening (18); and wherein the decorative cap (22) is attached to the plate (26) such that the track opening (18) is between the decorative cap (22) and the plate (26) thereby enabling the decorative cap (22) to slidably move along the track.
2. The jewellery mechanism (20) of claim 1, wherein the track (10) at least partially encapsulates the plate (26).
3. The jewellery mechanism (20) of claim 2, wherein the plate (26) is complementary to a portion of an inner volume of the track (10).
4. The jewellery mechanism (20) of any previous claim, wherein the decorative cap (22) further comprises a sprue (24), wherein the decorative cap (22) is connected to the plate (26) by the sprue (24).
5. The jewellery mechanism (20) of claim 4, wherein the plate further comprises a hole (28).
6. The jewellery mechanism (20) of claim 5, wherein the sprue (24) further comprises a sprue tip (25) complementary in size to the hole (28).
7. The jewellery mechanism (20) of claim 6, wherein the sprue tip (25) and plate (26) are connected at the hole (28) by one of: welding or brazing or soldering or friction welding or interference fit or gluing.
8. The jewellery mechanism (20) of claim 4, wherein the portion of the decorative cap (22) slidably engaged in the track opening (18) is the sprue (24).
9. The jewellery mechanism (20) of any previous claim, wherein the track (10) further comprises a track top (11) and a back plate (16), and wherein the track opening (18) is defined by the track top (11) and the back plate (16).
10. The jewellery mechanism (20) of claim 9, wherein the track top (11) comprises an inner track (12) and an outer track (14).
11. The jewellery mechanism (20) of claim 10, wherein the back plate (16) is connected to the inner track (12) and outer track (14) using one of: welding or brazing or soldering or friction welding or interference fit or gluing.
12. The jewellery mechanism (20) of any previous claim, wherein a portion of a top surface of the plate (26) and a first inner surface of the track (13) abut when the decorative cap (22) and plate (26) are at an angle (Q).
13. The jewellery mechanism (20) of claim 12, wherein the abutment of the portion of the top surface of the plate (26) and the first inner surface of the track (13) provides a frictional force suitable for preventing the decorative cap (22) and plate (26) from sliding along the track (10).
14. The jewellery mechanism (20) of any previous claim, wherein a portion of a bottom surface of the plate (26) and a second inner surface of the track (15) abut when the decorative cap (22) and plate (26) are at an angle (Q).
15. The jewellery mechanism (20) of claim 14, wherein the abutment of the portion of the bottom surface of the plate (26) and the second inner surface of the track (15) provides a frictional force suitable for preventing the decorative cap (22) and plate (26) from sliding along the track (10).
16. The jewellery mechanism (20) of any of claims 12 to 15 wherein the angle (Q) is between 0.5 to 89 degrees; preferably wherein the angle (Q) is between 0.5 to 45 degrees; more preferably still wherein the angle (Q) is between 0.5 to 20 degrees; even more preferably wherein the angle (Q) is between 0.5 to 10 degrees.
17. The jewellery mechanism (20) of any previous claim wherein the track (10) is a closed loop.
18. The jewellery mechanism (20) of any of claims 1 to 16 wherein the track (10) is an open loop.
19. The jewellery mechanism (20) of claim 17 or 18 wherein the track (10) is a circle, an oval or an ellipse and wherein the plate (26) is shaped as an annulus sector complementary to the inner volume of the track (10).
20. The jewellery mechanism (20) of claim 17 or 18 wherein the track (10) is an n-sided shape, wherein n is equal to three or more; and wherein the plate (26) is shaped as an n- sided shape of the same value of n.
21. A method of manufacturing a jewellery mechanism (20), the method comprising the step of providing: a track (10) defining a track opening (18); a decorative cap (22); a plate (26); inserting a portion of the decorative cap (22) such that it is slidably engaged in the track opening (18); and wherein the decorative cap (22) is attached to the plate (26) such that the track opening (18) is between the decorative cap (22) and the plate (26); and the further step of at least partially encapsulating the plate (26) in the track (10).
22. The method of manufacturing a jewellery mechanism (20) of claim 21, wherein closing the track (10) comprises the step of: welding or brazing or soldering or friction welding or interference fit or gluing a back plate (16) onto the back of the track (10).
23. The method of manufacturing a jewellery mechanism (20) of claim 21 or 22, wherein the decorative cap (22) further comprises a sprue (24), wherein the decorative cap (22) is connected to the plate (26) by the sprue (24).
PCT/GB2022/051614 2021-06-23 2022-06-23 Jewellery mechanism WO2022269272A1 (en)

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US6688139B2 (en) * 2001-06-13 2004-02-10 Patricia Tschetter Method and apparatus for interconnecting jewelry elements
US20140345323A1 (en) * 2011-05-10 2014-11-27 Nathalie Sevikian Item of jewellery or clothing accessory having a mechanism for moving the stone

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GB2601581B (en) 2023-01-11
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