WO2022042978A1

WO2022042978A1 - Emulsion shampoos

Info

Publication number: WO2022042978A1
Application number: PCT/EP2021/070995
Authority: WO
Inventors: Marlene Battermann; Sylvia KERL
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2020-08-31
Filing date: 2021-07-27
Publication date: 2022-03-03
Also published as: DE102020210941A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to an O/W emulsion for cleaning and the care of keratin fibers, containing plant and/or mineral oils, C10-C24-acyl lactylate(s), zwitterionic and/or amphoteric surfactant(s) and trimethylglycine. The invention further relates to the use of the O/W emulsion for cleaning or the care of human hair, in particular to the use as a shampoo.

Description

emulsion shampoos'

The invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to O/W emulsions for cleaning and caring for keratin fibers, comprising vegetable and/or mineral oils, C10-C24 acyl lactylates, zwitterionic and/or amphoteric surfactants and trimethylglycine.

The invention also relates to the use of the O/W emulsions for cleaning and caring for human hair.

Cosmetic hair cleaning products such as shampoos have been known for a long time and are regularly adapted to the changing needs of consumers.

Shampoos primarily serve the purpose of cleaning the hair. To do this, they must have a viscosity suitable for the application, good foaming properties and high detergency. At the same time, consumers want caring shampoos that prevent degreasing of the scalp and leave the hair supple, shiny, soft and easy to comb after cleaning.

Good foam properties are understood to mean good foaming ability even when the hair is heavily soiled (such as greasy dirt, hairspray residues, etc.) and high foam volume, foam stability and the ability to be rinsed out.

A large number of hair care components have a negative effect on the foam behavior, the setting and/or maintenance of viscosity and the long-term stabilization of shampoos.

In the past, this problem was usually solved by increasing the surfactant content and/or by incorporating crystalline, polymeric and/or alkoxylated stabilizers.

Above all, some of the particulate (polymeric) stabilizers that have been customary up to now have recently been subsumed under the term "microplastic" by environmental organizations and are considered environmentally harmful and undesirable.

But consumers are also increasingly demanding more natural hair care shampoos that have excellent foaming properties, a rich texture and a visually appealing appearance.

WO 2020/052914 proposed emulsion shampoos which, in addition to an emulsifier mixture of glyceryl partial esters and alkali metal salts of fatty acids, contain fatty alcohols, sulfate-free surfactants and care polymers.

The emulsion shampoos have good foam qualities and a low potential for irritation.

There is nevertheless a need for emulsion shampoos with good cleaning power, the use of which does not cause the hair to become undesirably weighed down (avoiding a so-called built-up effect), and which in particular improve the feel of wet hair. In addition, there is a need for improvement with regard to satisfactory application of emulsion shampoos to the hair.

The object of the present invention was to provide cleaning emulsion shampoos with very good foaming and care properties.

The aim was in particular to provide cleaning emulsion shampoos that are simple and energy-efficient to produce, have a creamy look and feel, can be applied well to the hair and are easy to distribute, do not cause a built-up effect, and include a high proportion of ingredients from natural sources , do not contain any additives (such as solid or liquid microplastic components) for stabilization or viscosity adjustment that are viewed as critical by consumers or NGOs, have high care performance (in particular an improved feel of wet hair compared to comparable products).

Surprisingly, it has been shown that the aforementioned objects can be achieved by combining vegetable and/or mineral oils with Cio-C24 acyl lactylates, zwitterionic and/or amphoteric surfactants and trimethylglycine.

O/W cleaning emulsions (so-called emulsion shampoos) obtainable in this way have the advantages of a mild shampoo with excellent care performance. They can be easily distributed in the hair and rinsed out.

Compared to existing market products, O/W cleansing emulsions according to the invention do not exhibit any built-up effect and show improved volume in dry hair.

Another advantage is that higher amounts of different care oils can be incorporated into the emulsions without the presence of sulphate surfactants being necessary (for example to optimize the foam volume).

A first object of the invention is an O/W emulsion for cleaning and caring for keratin fibers, containing a) at least one vegetable and/or mineral oil, b) at least one Cio-24-acyllactylate, c) at least one zwitterionic and/or amphoteric surfactant, d) trimethylglycine. In a first preferred embodiment, the O/W emulsion for cleaning and caring for keratin fibers contains the components a) to d) - based on their total weight - in the following proportions by weight: a) 0.01 to 8% by weight of at least one vegetable and/or mineral oil, b) 0.01-1% by weight of at least one Cio-C24 acyl lactylate, c) 0.10-8% by weight of at least one zwitterionic and/or amphoteric surfactant, d) 0.01 - 5% by weight of trimethylglycine and e) > 70% by weight of water.

Suitable vegetable oils for the purposes of the present invention include oils that are liquid at room temperature (20°C), such as coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil (tea tree oil), soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sesame oil, Sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, cranberry oil, sea buckthorn oil, meadowfoam seed oil, safflower oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, marula oil, pomegranate seed oil, paradise nut oil, passion fruit seed oil, rosehip seed oil, Hazelnut oil, hemp oil, coffee oil, castor oil, safflower oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil and/or rambutan oil, as well as vegetable butters, for example shea butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, apricot kernel butter, mafura butter, bacuri butter, tucuma butter, ucuuba butter and /or cupuacu butter.

The aforementioned liquid vegetable oils are preferred. The aforementioned liquid, cold-pressed vegetable oils are particularly preferred.

Suitable mineral oils are understood to mean liquid or solid hydrocarbons such as vaseline, ceresin, ozokerite, paraffins and/or isoparaffins.

Paraffins and/or isoparaffins which are liquid at room temperature (20° C.) are preferred.

The at least one vegetable and/or mineral oil can preferably be used in the O/W emulsion according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 8% by weight of the total weight of the O/W emulsion. Weight fractions of 0.05 to 6% by weight are more preferred, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight and in particular 0.15 to 3% by weight.

Suitable C10-024 acyl lactylates are preferably C12-020 acyl lactylates and particularly preferably lauroyl lactylate, palmitoyl lactylate, stearoyl lactylate, isostearoyl lactylate and their corresponding salted forms. The acyl lactylate known by the INCI name sodium stearoyl lactylate is particularly preferred.

It has been found that even small amounts of these specific acyl lactylates increase the stability of the emulsion shampoos according to the invention, even in the event that different oils of different polarity are used in the emulsion shampoos. In addition, as mild surfactants, acyl lactylates support the foaming properties of the emulsion shampoos according to the invention and increase their moisturizing and thus care properties.

These effects are particularly pronounced when using sodium stearoyl lactylate.

The at least one Cio-C24 acyl lactylate can be used in the O/W emulsion according to the invention preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 1% by weight based on the total weight of the O/W emulsion. Weight fractions of from 0.05 to 0.9% by weight are more preferred, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 0.75% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 0.6% by weight.

In a second preferred embodiment, C12-C20 acyl lactylates and the corresponding salted forms, preferably (salts of) stearoyl lactylate, isostearoyl lactylate, palmitoyl lactylate and/or lauroyl lactylate, are used as Cio-C24 acyl lactylates.

Within this embodiment, emulsion shampoos according to the invention which contain sodium stearoyl lactylate are particularly preferred.

The emulsion shampoos according to the invention comprise at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant as mild surfactants with excellent foaming properties.

These are preferably surface-active compounds selected from the group comprising alkyl betaines, alkylamidoalkyl betaines, alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphodiacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkyl amphodipropionates, alkyl sultaines, alkyl hydroxysultaines, alkyl amine oxides, alkyl amphoglycinates, alkyl iminodiacetates, alkyl iminodipropionates, alkyl amphopropyl sulfonates, alkyl amphocarboxyglycinates and alkyl amphos

Suitable alkyl betaines and/or alkyl amidopropyl betaines preferably comprise C4-C24, more preferably Ce-C, particularly preferably Cs-Cu, alkyl chains, which may be linear or branched, linear being preferred. Particularly preferred alkyl betaines or alkylamidopropyl betaines are selected from the group consisting of lauryl betaines, coco betaines, behenyl betaines, caprylic/capramidopropyl betaines, cetyl betaines, cocamidoethyl betaines, cocamidopropyl betaines, coco/oleamidopropyl betaines, decyl betaines, dimer dilinoleamidopropyl betaines, hydrogenated tallow betaines, Hydroxy la uryl/Hydroxy myristyl Betaine, Isostearamidopropyl Betaine,

Lauramidopropyl Betaine, Lauryl Betaine, Myristyl Betaine, Oleamidopropyl Betaine, Oleyl Betaine, Palmitamidopropyl Betaine, Ricinoleamidopropyl Betaine, Stearamidopropyl Betaine, Stearyl Betaine, Tallowamidopropyl Betaine, Tallow Betaine, Tallow Dihydroxyethyl Betaine, Undecylenamidopropyl Betaine, Sunfloweramidopropyl Betaine, Cetyl Betaine, Lauryl Betaine. Cocamidopropyl Betaine is very particularly preferred.

Particularly suitable alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphodiacetates, alkyl amphopropionates or alkyl amphodipropionates are selected from the group cocobetainamido amphopropionate, DEA-Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Caproamphodiacetate, Disodium Caproamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Isostearoamphodiacetate, Disodium Isostearoamphodipropionate, Disodium Laureth-5 Carboxyamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Oleoamphodipropionate, Disodium PPG-2-lsodeceth- 7 Carboxyamphodiacetate, Disodium Stearoamphodiacetate, Disodium Tallowamphodiacetate, Sodium Caproamphopropionate, Sodium Capryloamphoacetate, Sodium Capryloamphopropionate, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Sodium Cocoamphopropionate, Sodium Isostearoamphoacetate, Sodium Isostearoamphopropionate, Sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium Lauroamphopropionate, Sodium Myristoamphoacetate, Sodium Oleoamphoacetate, Sodium Oleoamphopropionate, Sodium Stearoamphoacetate, Sodium Stearoamphopropionate , Sodium Tallamphopropionate, Sodium Tallowamphoacetate, Sodium And ecylenoamphoacetate and sodium undecylenoamphopropionate.

Very particular preference is given to sodium cocoamphoacetate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate. Particularly suitable alkyl sultaines or alkyl hydroxy sultaines are selected from the group consisting of capryl sultaines, cocamidopropyl hydroxy sultaines, coco hydroxy sultaines, coco sultaines, erucamidopropyl hydroxy sultaines, lauramidopropyl hydroxy sultaines, lauryl hydroxy sultaines, lauryl sultaines, myristamidopropyl hydroxy sultaines, oleamidopropyl hydroxy sultaines, tallowamidopropyl hydroxy sultaines.

Particularly suitable alkylamine oxides are selected from the group consisting of behenamine oxide, cocamidopropylamine oxide, cocamine oxide, decylamine oxide, decyltetradecylamine oxide, dihydroxyethyl C8-10 alkoxypropylamine oxide, dihydroxyethyl C9-11 alkoxypropylamine oxide, dihydroxyethyl C12-15 alkoxypropylamine oxide, dihydroxyethyl cocamine oxide and dihydroxyethyl lauramine Oxide, Dihydroxyethyl Stearamine Oxide, Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine Oxide, Hydrogenated Tallowamine Oxide, Isostearamidopropylamine Oxide, Lauramidopropylamine Oxide, Lauramine Oxide, Myristamidopropylamine Oxide, Myristamine Oxide, Palmitamidopropylamine Oxide, Palmitamine Oxide, PEG-3 Lauramine Oxide, Stearamidopropylamine Oxide, Stearamine Oxide, Tallowamidopropylamine Oxide, Tallowamine Oxide, Undecylenamidopropylamine Oxide. Particularly suitable alkyl amphoglycinates are selected from the group of caproamphoglycinates, capryloamphoglycinates, cocoamphoglycinates, isostearoamphoglycinates, lauroamphoglycinates, myristoamphoglycinates, oleoamphoglycinates, stearoamphoglycinates, tallowamphoglycinates, undecylenoamphoglycinates.

Particularly suitable alkyliminodiacetates or alkyliminodipropionates are selected from the group disodium cocaminopropyl iminodiacetate, disodium hydroxyethyliminodiacetate, disodium lauriminodiacetate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, disodium steariminodipropionate, disodium tallowiminodipropionate, sodium C12-15 alkoxypropyl iminodipropionate, sodium cocoiminodiacetate, sodium lauriminodipropionate. Particularly suitable alkylamphopropylsulfonates are selected from sodium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium oleoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium stearoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium lauriminobishydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium caproamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium capryloamphohydroxypropylsulfonate.

It has been found that a content of alkyl ampho(di)acetates and/or alkyl ampho(di)propionates, in particular alkyl ampho(di)acetates, is particularly advantageous for the emulsion shampoos according to the invention, since these types of surfactants are mild and - even when oils are present - are lather-enhancing. In addition, adjusting the viscosity of the cleaning emulsions is simplified if they contain alkyl ampho(di)acetates and/or alkyl ampho(di)propionates.

For some embodiments, a combination of several amphoteric surfactants has also turned out to be particularly suitable for further optimizing the foam properties and/or for improving some care parameters. In particular, the combination of alkyl ampho(di)acetates and alkylamidopropyl betaines is advantageous in this regard.

The at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant can preferably be used in the O/W emulsion according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.1 to 8% by weight based on the total weight of the O/W emulsion. Weight fractions of from 0.2 to 7.5% by weight are more preferred, particularly preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.4 to 6.5% by weight.

In a third preferred embodiment, at least one C8-C14-alkyl ampho(di)acetate and the corresponding salified forms are used as the amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant.

Amphoteric surfactants known under the INCI name sodium cocoamphoacetate and/or disodium cocoamphodiacetate are particularly preferred within this embodiment.

In a further preferred embodiment, the emulsion shampoos according to the invention contain a combination of amphoteric surfactants, preferably at least one Cs-Ci4-alkyl ampho(di)acetate and additionally at least one Cs-Cu-alkylamidopropylbetaine in a proportion by weight of 0.1 to 5% by weight Total weight of the O/W emulsion.

In combination with the emulsifiers/surfactants b) and c), trimethylglycine has a foam-stabilizing and irritation-alleviating effect and enables the reduction of surfactant quantities with the same good foam quantities and foam properties. In addition, trimethylglycine is known as a moisturizing active ingredient in cosmetic agents and is also used in the compositions according to the invention as a hair-conditioning component—in particular as an active ingredient that strengthens the hair fibers.

Trimethylglycine is used in the emulsion shampoos according to the invention preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight and in particular 0.1 to

1.5% by weight of the total weight of the emulsion shampoos.

The emulsion shampoos according to the invention are preferably in an aqueous base. Among these, a water content of at least 70% by weight is preferred, more preferably at least

72.5% by weight and particularly preferably at least 75% by weight (based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions).

To further support the stability, the viscosity and to optimize the flow behavior, it can be advantageous if the emulsion shampoos according to the invention additionally contain a natural thickener.

This is preferably understood to mean natural hydrocolloids, since these can contribute to the stabilization of component(s) a) and to a pleasant texture of the emulsion shampoos according to the invention.

Examples of suitable natural hydrocolloids are polysaccharides such as glucanan, modified and unmodified starches, amylose, amylopectin, dextrans, mannans, xylans, lignins, chitin, chitosans, pectins, alginic acids and alginates, arabinogalactans, carageenans and carrageenates, agar, gums ( arabic, karaya), locust bean gum, galactomannans such as guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), xanthan gum, scleroglucan and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred are gums; Xanthan gum and/or scleroglucan (sclerotica gum) are particularly preferred.

Natural thickening agents, preferably gum and in particular xanthan gum and/or scleroglucan (sclerotica gum) can preferably be present in the emulsion shampoos according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 2.5% by weight. and in particular 0.1 to 2% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion shampoos.

In a further preferred embodiment, the O/W emulsions according to the invention contain at least one natural thickener in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 1% by weight based on the total weight of the O/W emulsions.

Within this embodiment, natural thickeners from the group of gums are particularly preferred. Xanthan gum and/or Scleroticum gum are particularly preferred. For an optimal balance between good foam properties--in particular foam formation and foam volume--and mildness, it is advantageous if the emulsion shampoos according to the invention contain other mild, washing-active surfactants in addition to the at least one amphoteric surfactant c).

Anionic and/or nonionic surfactants are preferably used as further mild surfactants.

Alkyl(oligo)glycosides are nonionic surfactants which are particularly suitable for the emulsion shampoos according to the invention, since they are well tolerated by the skin and have excellent foam quantities and properties even when used in small amounts.

Alkyl (oligo)glycosides for the purposes of the present invention are compounds of the general formula RO-[G] _X , where R is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x stands for numbers between 1 and 10. They can be obtained by relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.

The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses and ketoses containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. The preferred alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and alkenyl oligoglucosides.

The index number x in the general formula RO-[G] _x indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and represents a number between 1 and 10. While x in the individual molecule must always be an integer and can assume the values x=1 to 6 in particular, the value x for a specific alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity which usually represents a fractional number. Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization x of 1.1 to 3 are preferred.

From a performance point of view, preference is given to those alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and is in particular between 1.2 and 1.4.

The alkyl and alkenyl radical R can be derived from primary alcohols having 6 to 24 carbon atoms such as caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and derive their technical mixtures.

Alkyl oligoglucosides in which R is Cs-Cis-alkyl radicals and which have a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred.

The alkyl oligoglucosides known under the INCI names caprylyl/caprylic glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and/or coco glucoside are particularly preferred. Alkyl oligoglycosides can preferably be present in the emulsion shampoos according to the invention in an amount of from 0.10 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight and particularly preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, based on the Total weight of the emulsion shampoos are used.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the O/W emulsions according to the invention contain alkyl (oligo)glycosides of the formula RO-[G]x in a proportion by weight of 0.1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the O/W emulsions, where R is an alkyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x (degree of oligomerization) is a number from 1 to 10, preferably alkyl (oligo)glucosides having a Cs-Cis-alkyl radical and a degree of oligomerization of 1 to 3, in particular caprylyl/caprylic glucoside and/or coco glucoside.

Sulfate surfactants, i.e. anionic surfactants which contain at least one sulfate group (-OSO3H) and are often ethoxylated, are usually used as high-foaming anionic surfactants in cosmetic cleaning agents.

When providing more natural products, efforts are being made to avoid the use of both sulfate surfactants and ethoxylated compounds as far as possible.

A further preferred embodiment is characterized in that the emulsion shampoos according to the invention are essentially free from anionic sulfate surfactants.

Yet another preferred embodiment is characterized in that the emulsion shampoos according to the invention are essentially free of alkoxylated compounds.

"Substantially free" is understood to mean that the emulsion shampoos according to the invention preferably contain less than 0.2% by weight, more preferably less than 0.15% by weight and in particular less than 0.1% by weight of sulfate surfactants and/or alkoxylated compounds (based on the total weight of the emulsion shampoos).

So-called carboxylate surfactants are particularly suitable anionic surfactants for the emulsion shampoos according to the invention, because they foam well, are kind to the skin and they support the stable emulsification of a number of different water-insoluble care substances. In addition, a content of carboxylate surfactants can have a positive effect on the cleaning power and the more thorough and quicker rinsing ability of the emulsion shampoos according to the invention.

Among carboxylate surfactants in the context of the present invention are preferred

acylglycinates,

acyl sarcosinates,

acyl lactylates, acylglutamates,

acyl aspartates,

acyl taurates,

acyl isethionates,

Sulphosuccinates and the corresponding salified forms of the aforementioned surfactants are understood, the acyl groups having 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

Particular preference is given to anionic carboxylate surfactants from the groups mentioned above, and their corresponding salified forms, in which the acyl groups contain 10 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Examples of particularly suitable anionic carboxylate surfactants are the alkali, alkaline earth and/or alkanolamine salts of cocoyl glycinate, cocoyl sarcosinate, lauroyl sarcosinate, myristoyl sarcosinate, oleyl sarcosinate, lauroyl lactylate, stearoyl lactylate, cocoyl glutamate, lauroyl glutamate, stearoyl glutamate, lauroyl aspartate , palmitoyl aspartate, (Ci-C4-alkyl) cocoyl taurate, (Ci-C4-alkyl) lauroyl taurate, (Ci-C4-alkyl) oleyl taurate, (Ci-C4-alkyl) cocoyl isethionate, (Ci-C4-alkyl ) Lauroyl Isethionate, Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Lauryl Sulfoacetate and/or any mixtures thereof.

Acylglutamates are particularly preferred.

Carboxylate surfactants may be incorporated into the emulsion shampoos of the present invention preferably in an amount of from 0.10% to 7.5%, more preferably from 0.5% to 7% and most preferably from 1% to 6.5% by weight on the total weight of the emulsion shampoos.

In a further preferred embodiment, the emulsion shampoos according to the invention contain at least one anionic carboxylate surfactant in a proportion by weight of 0.1 to 7.5% by weight of the total weight of the emulsion shampoos, the anionic carboxylate surfactant being selected from acylglycinates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, acylaspartates, acyltaurates, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinates, and the corresponding salified forms, and wherein the acyl groups contain from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

In addition to the essential and optional components mentioned above, the emulsion shampoos according to the invention can contain at least one further conditioning active ingredient to further increase their care properties, as long as this does not adversely affect the foaming capacity and the stability of the emulsions.

Among particularly suitable conditioning agents are representatives from the group of To understand glycerol esters and / or cationic polymers.

In the context of the present invention, “glycerol esters” are to be understood as meaning mono- and/or diesters of glycerol and unsaturated carboxylic acids having 18 to 24 carbon atoms. Preference is given to mono- and/or diesters which can be very readily dissolved and/or emulsified in the emulsion shampoos according to the invention and without the addition of polymeric and/or alkoxylated nonionic auxiliaries.

Mono- and/or diesters of glycerol and petroselinic acid, oleic acid, gadoleic acid, gondoic acid, cetoleic acid, erucic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid are particularly suitable, since they are available from natural (vegetable) sources and are readily biodegradable. A mono- and/or diester of glycerol and oleic acid (INCI designation: glyceryl oleate) is particularly preferred, since these esters have excellent moisturizing properties and can additionally support better combability and the hair's feel.

Glycerol esters can be added to the emulsion shampoos according to the invention as pure substance(s) or alternatively as prefabricated mixtures, for example in combination with alkyl (oligo)glycosides in an aqueous base. Such mixtures are commercially known and available, for example under the name “Lamesoft® PO 65” from BASF.

Glycerol esters, in particular mono- and/or diesters of glycerol and unsaturated carboxylic acids having 18 to 24 carbon atoms, can be used in the emulsion shampoos according to the invention (based on the total weight of the emulsion shampoos) preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.15 to 3% by weight and in particular from 0.2 to 2% by weight.

In a further preferred embodiment, emulsion shampoos according to the invention contain at least one mono- and/or diester of glycerol and a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched Cs-C24 carboxylic acid in a proportion by weight of 0.1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the emulsion shampoos.

Within this embodiment, it is particularly preferred if the emulsion shampoos according to the invention contain glycerol esters known under the INCI names glyceryl oleate and/or glyceryl laurate.

Suitable cationic polymers are preferably understood as meaning cationic polymers of natural origin. Preferred cationic polymers for the purposes of the present invention are: quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are commercially available under the names Celquat® and Polymer JR®, cationic starch derivatives, such as are commercially available under the name Mirustyle®, hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example the cationic polymers sold under the trade name SoftCat®, cationic alkyl polyglycosides, canonized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat® 50, cationic guar derivatives , such as in particular the cationic cassia and/or inulin derivatives products sold under the trade names Cosmedia®Guar N-Hance® and Jaguar®, such as the cationic polymers known under the INCI names Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin.

Quaternized cellulose polymers, hydrophobically modified cationic cellulose derivatives and/or cationic guar derivatives are preferred.

The cationic polymers known under the INCI names Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-67 and/or Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Corn Starch are particularly preferred; Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Polyquaternium-10 are particularly preferred.

The emulsion shampoos according to the invention can preferably contain at least one cationic polymer in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.02 to 0.75% by weight and in particular 0.03 to 0.5% by weight Total weight of emulsion shampoos included.

In a further preferred embodiment, emulsion shampoos according to the invention contain at least one cationic polymer in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 1% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion shampoos.

Within this embodiment, it is particularly preferred if the emulsion shampoos according to the invention contain cationic polymers known under the INCI names Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and/or Polyquaternium-10.

Compounds from the following groups can also be added to the emulsion shampoos according to the invention as further active ingredients for the hair and scalp: fatty alcohols, polyols, plant extracts, vitamins, anti-dandruff agents and/or protein hydrolysates. For the purposes of the present invention, suitable fatty alcohols are preferably C12-24 fatty alcohols, ie saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 12 to 24, preferably 14 to 24 and very particularly preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

For example, oleyl alcohol, erucic alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol and their Guerbet alcohols can be used, this list being intended to be exemplary and not limiting. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, and it can usually be assumed that they are obtained from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction. Fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols can also be used according to the invention, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Wool wax alcohols can also be used as fatty alcohols. Cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and/or isostearyl alcohol are particularly preferred. Cetearyl alcohol is particularly preferred.

Fatty alcohols, in particular C12-24 fatty alcohols, can preferably be used in the emulsion shampoos according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.5 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion shampoos. Weight fractions of from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight are more preferred, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 3.5% by weight.

Suitable polyols (i.e. physiologically tolerable polyalcohols or polyhydroxyl compounds) are preferably understood as meaning polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.

Typical examples are straight-chain, branched or cyclic alkanols with 2 to 10, preferably with 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and/or diglycerol, glycols such as polyethylene glycols and/or polypropylene glycols and sugar alcohols (alditols), sugar or sugar derivatives such as mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol, xylitol, fructose, glucose, lactose, galactose and/or sucrose.

Particular preference is given to C2-Ce polyols, preferably alditols such as mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol and/or xylitol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and/or diglycerol, particularly preferably 1,2- Propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and/or diglycerol, glycerol being particularly preferred. The emulsion shampoos according to the invention contain polyols—preferably glycerol—preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of emulsion shampoos.

Suitable "vitamins" are preferably to be understood as meaning the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives:

• Vitamin A: the group of substances known as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Examples of possible vitamin A components are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate.

• Vitamin B: the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex includes, among others: Vitamin Bi (Thiamine) Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin) Vitamin B3. The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often referred to under this name. Vitamin Bs (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group, preference is given to using panthenol. Derivatives of panthenol that can be used are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and cationic panthenol derivatives. Vitamin Be (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

• Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

• Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol).

• Vitamin F: the term "vitamin F" usually refers to essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

• Vitamin H: The compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]imidazole-4-valeric acid is known as vitamin H, but in the meantime the common name biotin has prevailed.

Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H are particularly preferred. Nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and/or panthenol are very particularly preferred; Nicotinamide and/or panthenol are particularly preferred.

The proportion by weight of the vitamin(s), vitamin derivative(s) and/or the vitamin precursor(s) in the total weight of the emulsion shampoos according to the invention is preferably 0.005 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.006 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.008 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.50% by weight. Suitable plant extracts are above all the extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, date palm, cinnamon tree, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, Mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, cuckoo flower, quendel, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, rest harrow, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, Moringa, ginger root and Ayurvedic plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma ), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala), sweet grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelt, corn, the different varieties of millet (broom millet, finger millet, foxtail millet as examples), Zu Field grass, ryegrass, meadow foxtail, smooth oat, bent grass, meadow fescue, moor grass, bamboo, cotton grass, fountain grass, Andropogonodeae (Imperata Cylindrica also called flame grass or Cogon grass), buffalo grass, silt grass, dogtooth grass, love grass, Cymbopogon (lemon grass), Oryceae (rice), Zizania (wild rice), beach grass, perennial grass, honey grass, trembling grass, meadow grass, couch grass and echinacea, in particular Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (McGregor), Echinacea laevigata , Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), all types of seaweed, coral moss and seaweed (such as Macrocystis pyrifera extract), all types of vine, and pericarp of Litchie chinensis.

Suitable extracts can be obtained from the fruits, seeds, flowers, roots, leaves and/or bark of the above plants or from the whole plants (algae, seaweed).

According to the invention, the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2-80% by weight of active substance and, as the solvent, the extractant or mixture of extractants used in their production. Suitable extraction agents are usually water and/or alcohols.

The plant extract(s) can preferably be used in the emulsion shampoos according to the invention in total amounts of 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0.75% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, with the quantity is based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

Suitable protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures which can be obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).

Protein hydrolyzates of plant, animal and/or marine origin can be used. Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which can also be present in the form of salts. Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).

Protein hydrolyzates of plant origin, e.g. B. soy, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex) and Crotein® (Croda).

Cationized protein hydrolyzates can also be used, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soybeans or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or from biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and/or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein fraction has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5,000 daltons. Furthermore, quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof are to be understood as cationic protein hydrolyzates. The quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or of the amino acids is frequently carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)-ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized. Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives are the products known and commercially available under the INCI designations: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin , Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen -76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

The proportion by weight of the protein hydrolyzate(s) in the total weight of the emulsion shampoos according to the invention is preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.025 to 3% by weight and in particular 0.05 to 2% by weight.

In the context of the present invention, suitable antidandruff agents are understood to be piroctone olamine, climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts, arnica extracts and/or propanediol caprylate .

Preferred for use in the emulsion shampoos according to the invention are natural anti-dandruff active ingredients such as the aforementioned plant extracts and/or anti-dandruff active ingredients obtainable from natural sources such as propanediol caprylate.

The proportion by weight of antidandruff agents in the total weight of the emulsion shampoos according to the invention is preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.025 to 4% by weight and particularly preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight.

Examples of other active substances, auxiliaries and additives that can preferably be contained in the emulsion shampoos according to the invention are:

perfumes,

- UV filter,

(Natural) dyes for coloring the agent, active ingredients such as bisabolol and/or allantoin, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ß-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, ceramides. Ceramides are understood to mean N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogues of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides), preservatives such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid, pH adjusters such as citric acid and/or lactic acid, viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCl).

A second subject matter of the invention is the use of an O/W emulsion according to the invention for the cleaning and care of human hair, in particular as a shampoo.

With regard to other preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what was said about the compositions according to the invention applies.

The following examples are intended to explain the subject matter of the present invention without restricting it thereto.

Examples:

The following O/W emulsion shampoos according to the invention were produced (the quantities relate to [% by weight]):

Claims

Patent Claims:

1 . O/W emulsion for cleaning and caring for keratin fibers, containing a) at least one vegetable and/or mineral oil, b) at least one Cio-C24 acyl lactylate, c) at least one zwitterionic and/or amphoteric surfactant, d) trimethylglycine.

2. O/W emulsion according to claim 1, containing - based on its total weight - a) 0.01 to 8% by weight of at least one vegetable and/or mineral oil, b) 0.01 to 1% by weight at least a Cio-Ö24 acyl lactylate, c) 0.10-8% by weight of at least one zwitterionic and/or amphoteric surfactant, d) 0.01-5% by weight of trimethylglycine and e) >70% by weight of water.

3. O/W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, containing at least one C12-20 acyl lactylate and the corresponding salified forms, preferably (salts of) stearoyl lactylate, isostearoyl lactylate, palmitoyl lactylate, lauroyl lactylate and in particular at least one under the INCI name sodium stearoyl Lactylates known acyl lactylate.

4. O/W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, containing at least one Cs-Ci4-alkylampho(di)acetate and the corresponding salified forms, preferably at least one surfactant known by the INCI name sodium cocoamphoacetate or disodium cocoamphodiacetate.

5. O / W emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, containing at least one natural thickener in a weight proportion of 0.01 to 3 wt .-% of the total weight of the O / W emulsion, preferably containing at least one natural thickener from the group of gum.

6. O/W emulsion according to claim 5, containing xanthan gum and/or scleroticum gum.

7. O / W emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, containing alkyl (oligo) glycosides of the formula RO - [G] _X in a weight proportion of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of the total weight of the O / W emulsion, wherein R is an alkyl radical with 6 to 24 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x (degree of oligomerization) is a number from 1 to 10, preferably containing alkyl (oligo)glucosides with a Cs-Cis-alkyl radical and a degree of oligomerization of 1 to 3, in particular caprylyl/caprylic glucoside and/or coco glucoside. O / W emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, containing at least one mono- and / or diester of glycerol and a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched Cs-C24 carboxylic acid in a weight proportion of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% on Total weight of the O/W emulsion, preferably at least one glyceryl ester known under the INCI name Glyceryl Oleate and/or Glyceryl Laurate. O/W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, containing at least one cationic polymer in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the O/W emulsion. O/W emulsion according to Claim 9, containing at least one cationic polymer known by the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and/or Polyquaternium-10. O/W emulsion according to Claim 4, additionally containing at least one Cs-Cu-alkylamidopropyl betaine in a proportion by weight of 0.1 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the O/W emulsion. O/W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, containing at least one anionic carboxylate surfactant in a proportion by weight of 0.1 to 7.5% by weight of the total weight of the O/W emulsion, the anionic carboxylate surfactant being selected from acylglycinates, acylsarcosinates , acyl glutamates, acyl aspartates, acyl taurates, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinates and the corresponding salified forms, and wherein the acyl groups contain 10 to 30 carbon atoms. O/W emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, which is essentially free of anionic sulphate surfactants. O/W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, which is essentially free of alkoxylated compounds. Use of an O/W emulsion as claimed in any of claims 1 to 14 for cleaning and caring for human hair, in particular as a shampoo.