WO2021121519A1 - Couture automatique de parties d'article chaussant - Google Patents

Couture automatique de parties d'article chaussant Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021121519A1
WO2021121519A1 PCT/DK2020/050386 DK2020050386W WO2021121519A1 WO 2021121519 A1 WO2021121519 A1 WO 2021121519A1 DK 2020050386 W DK2020050386 W DK 2020050386W WO 2021121519 A1 WO2021121519 A1 WO 2021121519A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
base layer
footwear
parts
footwear parts
stitching
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/DK2020/050386
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Thomas GØGSIG
Jörgen KNESE
Jens Peter BREDVIG
Original Assignee
Ecco Sko A/S
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Ecco Sko A/S filed Critical Ecco Sko A/S
Priority to EP20828651.8A priority Critical patent/EP4076086A1/fr
Priority to US17/787,460 priority patent/US20230030271A1/en
Priority to CN202080088463.1A priority patent/CN114828689A/zh
Publication of WO2021121519A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021121519A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0205—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
    • A43B23/021—Leather
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/025—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form assembled by stitching
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D111/00—Shoe machines with conveyors for jacked shoes or for shoes or shoe parts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D8/00—Machines for cutting, ornamenting, marking or otherwise working up shoe part blanks
    • A43D8/26—Marking for future work
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D999/00—Subject matter not provided for in other groups of this subclass
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B15/00—Machines for sewing leather goods
    • D05B15/02—Shoe sewing machines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D2200/00—Machines or methods characterised by special features
    • A43D2200/10—Fully automated machines, i.e. machines working without human intervention

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method of manufacturing footwear, said footwear comprising at least two footwear parts, e.g. shoe parts, which footwear parts are at least partly connected together by stitching for forming at least part of an upper part of said footwear.
  • the invention furthermore relates to a system for manufacturing footwear, said footwear comprising at least two footwear parts, e.g. shoe parts, which footwear parts are at least partly connected together by stitching for forming at least part of an upper part of said footwear.
  • Prior art methods and systems for manufacturing footwear rely to a large degree on manual handling of e.g. footwear parts, including manual handling of footwear parts when these are positioned prior to being connected by stitching and including manual operation in connection with stitching, etc.
  • custom made jigs have been used, e.g. for fixating footwear parts after they have been manually positioned.
  • prior art systems require a multitude of various custom-made jigs to be made and to be made available at the manufacturing facility, which may increase manufacturing costs.
  • such methods are still relatively labour intensive. Thus, it is desired to reduce the rate of manual labour in connection with manufacture of footwear.
  • the invention relates to a method of manufacturing footwear, said footwear comprising at least two footwear parts, e.g. shoe parts, which footwear parts are at least partly connected together by stitching for forming at least part of an upper part of said footwear, said method comprising
  • the manufacturing of footwear may be improved as regards cost-efficiency and production speed, for example since the manufacturing may take place in a highly or at least partly automated manner and since the base layer may serve as a means of accommodating the footwear parts in individual form as well as in the processed connected form after being stitched.
  • the base layer may also serve as a means for handling the footwear parts, the connected footwear parts and/or other assemblies of footwear parts and may serve as a means for transport, e.g. along a process line, from one processing step to the next, etc.
  • manual handling may be reduced or possibly totally avoided for a large number of process steps, e.g. since the base layer with or without the positioned and/or processed parts may be serve as a work base as well as transport means.
  • the base layer may be a uniform sheet or layer of material, e.g. wherein the base layer may be continuous along at least a part of the length and a least a part of the width of the base layer and having essentially uniform characteristics.
  • the base layer may be a uniform sheet or layer of material, e.g. wherein the base layer may be continuous along the length and the width of the base layer and having essentially uniform characteristics.
  • the at least two footwear parts that are being fixated and later e.g. stitched together and/or to the base layer may for example be a toe cap and a vamp, a vamp and a tongue, a vamp and a quarter, a quarter and an outer counter, a facing and a quarter.
  • the method according to these embodiments may involve that any such combination of footwear parts is provided and positioned on the base layer in accordance with the invention.
  • the order, in which the at least two footwear parts are provided and positioned may be arbitrary but may customarily depend on the actual footwear construction and/or design.
  • the vamp may be positioned as the first out of the at least two and the tongue as the second footwear part, but the order of positioning these two footwear parts may be reversed.
  • the at least two footwear parts may be positioned and subsequently fixated on the base layer with the side of each of the at least two footwear parts that normally will be facing the inner of the completed footwear facing the base layer.
  • Other variations are possible, e.g. with one of the at least two footwear parts being reversed.
  • the automation may be effected due to the automated stitching, which may be provided by an automated stitching device, e.g. a motor driven stitching device, which furthermore may perform the stitching in an at least partly automatically controlled manner, which may be applied in a multitude of ways.
  • the stitching device may perform the stitching in accordance with a predefined route, defined in relation to the positions and/or orientation of the at least two footwear parts that have been fixated on the base layer.
  • a stitching route or routes may be defined in e.g. an X-Y system on the base layer and implemented by the stitching device.
  • the automated stitching device is configured to stitch along a route, which has been indicated on at least one of the at least two footwear parts, e.g. with a visible marking, which may be followed by the stitching device, which may receive input data from an e.g. vision device, which may be combined with the stitching device or may be an independent device.
  • a marking may instead be invisible, e.g. an electronical or magnetic trail, a radiation trail, etc. which may require corresponding sensing devices to control the stitching device.
  • the stitching device may be controlled to follow an edge of one of the at least two footwear parts and stitch in a predetermined distance to the relevant footwear part, in which case input data may be provided by vision equipment or other means of detecting and/or following e.g. an edge part.
  • input data may be provided by vision equipment or other means of detecting and/or following e.g. an edge part.
  • Other options for controlling or guiding the automated stitching are possible.
  • a stitching route is defined as a route in relation to an X-Y system on the base layer, where furthermore it may be supplemented with a guiding system, for example using a vision system to effect a predefined distance to an edge of one of the footwear parts and/or which ensures that the stitching is started and/or stopped, when e.g. the at least two footwear parts are not overlapping.
  • the method may be automated in other manners.
  • the base layer may be provided in an automated manner, for example being delivered by a denesting device or a similar arrangement, whereby the base layers from e.g. a stack are being delivered one by one and for example put onto a conveyor system or the like.
  • Robotic delivering means may also be utilized for providing the base layers.
  • step of providing the at least two footwear parts and positioning these various manners of automating these may be utilized, including the use of robotic means, e.g. robots that may grip the footwear parts by e.g. vacuum grippers and place these on the base layer, controlled by a controller that further receives input as regards the position of the footwear part e.g. above the base layer.
  • robotic vacuum grippers e.g. robots that may grip the footwear parts by e.g. vacuum grippers and place these on the base layer, controlled by a controller that further receives input as regards the position of the footwear part e.g. above the base layer.
  • robotic vacuum grippers these may be equipped with a plurality of relatively small suctions cups or the like, e.g. arranged in an array corresponding to e.g. the size of footwear parts to be gripped.
  • the individual suction cups or the like may be individually supplied with vacuum.
  • a further axis of the vacuum gripper robot may be implemented by having the active suctions cups or the like, e.g. the suction cups actually gripping a footwear part, be controlled to be extended or in another configuration by having the inactive suction cups be controlled to be retracted, when gripping, positioning and/or moving etc. a footwear part.
  • the inactive suctions cups or the like that are actually not involved in gripping a footwear part will not be near or will at least be positioned a distance from the footwear part, thus making it easier to maneuver the vacuum gripper and/or the gripped footwear part, e.g.
  • the robotic vacuum gripper may, when implemented in such a manner with a further axis, be used with greater delicacy, with greater precision and in general with greater degrees of freedom as regards e.g. the ability to turn or in general angularly maneuver a footwear part, position a footwear part near a frame or fixture for the base layer, utilize the available base layer area to a greater extent, etc.
  • Other automation means are possible in this regard.
  • automation may be implemented in connection with application of adhesives, e.g. automated application in certain areas, etc., activation of applied adhesives, etc., where automated devices may be utilized.
  • At least one of said at least two footwear parts may be a leather footwear part.
  • the method may further comprise the step of providing a fixture for said base layer and may comprise the step of arranging the base layer to be held by said fixture.
  • the base layer when held by such a fixture, may provide improved characteristics as regards e.g. strength, rigidity, load bearing capability, precision as regards positioning of e.g. footwear parts on it, etc. since the fixture may serve as a rigid frame or the like, by means of which the base layer may be e.g. tightened, for example to provide a planar surface, on which the e.g. footwear parts may be positioned with great precision. Furthermore, the fixture may facilitate the e.g. handling and/or transport of the base layer, with or without parts positioned on it.
  • a reference may be provided for positioning said at least two footwear parts on said base layer.
  • the reference may be a visual reference, which may be utilized when manually positioning the at least two footwear parts and/or which may also be utilized when positioning the at least two footwear parts in an automated manner, e.g. using a robotic unit that may have vision means to enable the placing.
  • the reference may instead be based on other means such as electronic means, magnetic means, radiation means of various kinds, etc, as it will be apparent to a person skilled within the art of automation and related fields.
  • said reference may be provided by the base layer and/or said fixture for the base layer.
  • the reference may be provided in advantageous manners, e.g. combined and/or incorporated with the base layer, e.g. embedded in or placed on the base layer material for example as a visual coordinate system or as an electronic device indicating origin and direction to be used by e.g. a robot.
  • a rectangular frame may serve to provide the reference, for example with one inner corner providing the origin and the corresponding two frame parts providing x- and y-axes that may be detected using visual means or other means, e.g.
  • the fixture preferably is reusable, a reference provided by the fixture may be technically more advanced, which relates to the reference means itself as well as the detector or sensing means that for example provides control input to e.g. a robotic apparatus for placing the parts.
  • said step of fixating said at least two footwear parts on said base layer in respective positions may comprise adhering the at least two shoe parts on said base layer with an adhesive.
  • the at least two footwear parts may not be accidentally moved from the intended position(s) and may remain there until having been connected by the automated stitching.
  • Such unintended moving of the at least two footwear parts might otherwise happen when the base layer or the fixture is being transported from one process step to the next and in particular when the base layer and the at least two footwear parts has to the stitched by an automatic stitching apparatus.
  • said adhesive may be provided as a non- activated adhesive on said base layer, which is activated when fixating the at least two footwear parts on the base layer.
  • the at least two footwear parts may be adhered to the base layer in a relatively uncomplicated manner, when the footwear parts have been positioned, at which point in time the adhering may be established by activating the adhesive, which may be done in various manners. It is noted that in case one of the two at least two footwear parts is overlapping the other and it is intended to fixate these two at e.g. the overlap as well, the overlap part of at least one of the at least two footwear parts may have been applied with adhesive in advance or in connection with the positioning of the footwear parts. When the non-activated adhesive of the base layer is activated, the adhesive of the overlap part(s) may be activated at the same time.
  • said non-activated adhesive on said base layer may be activated using friction, pressure, ultrasonic radiation, infrared radiation, heat transfer or any combination hereof.
  • Heat transfer may be applied by heat conducting or heat conduction.
  • the non-activated adhesive is defined as an adhesive that has not yet been activated.
  • Adhesives may be non-reactive glue e.g. hot-melt adhesives including thermo polymer, polyamide, polyesters, polyurethane, polyolefins etc.
  • Hot melt glues may consist of one base material with various additives.
  • the composition is usually formulated to have a glass transition temperature (onset of brittleness) and a suitable high melt temperature as well.
  • the hot-melt adhesive may have a Tg (Tg: Glas transition temperature) between 50 degrees Celsius and 200 degrees Celsius, such as between 100 degrees Celsius and 200 degrees Celsius, such as between 110 degrees Celsius and 200 degrees Celsius, such as between 120 degrees Celsius and 200 degrees Celsius, such as between 100 degrees Celsius and 180 degrees Celsius, such as between 100 degrees Celsius and 170 degrees Celsius.
  • Tg Glas transition temperature
  • An advantage of applying heat to the process is that it is possible to control the adherence of adhesive to leather.
  • the temperature is raised as the adhesive is applied to the leather and/or base layer as e.g. a web and needs to be heated in order to melt and facilitate a strong mutual bonding between the leather pieces/layers.
  • the pressure P applied may be at least 2 bar, such as at least 3 bar, such as at least 4 bar, such as at least 5 bars. Pressure should be below a pressure where the leather is damaged or where the bonding is not performed according to intentions. An upper pressure could e.g. be 15 bar.
  • An advantage of applying pressure to the leather during heating of the leather is that the temperature of the leather may be lower than if not applying pressure.
  • the lower temperature is an advantage as the leather may not be burned and it will further keep the leather in the right shape with a minimum of shrinkage. If the temperature is too high, the leather may lose its moisture and therefore turn hard and wavy and thereby loose the flexibility and softness of the leather.
  • leather layers comprising said non- activated adhesive may have a water vapor permeability of above 5 mg/cm2/hour, such as above 8 mg/cm2/hour, such as above 10 mg/cm2/hour.
  • the material allows liquid water (perspiration) to transport away from the skin to the outside, thus allowing comprehensive comfort to the wearer.
  • Breathability and water vapor permeability may be used interchangeably and may be evaluated by suitable methods for determining water vapor permeability of leather.
  • Standard methods such as SATRA TM 172 may be used to test the water vapor permeability. Briefly, the measurement may be of a test piece of material fixed over the opening of ajar. Mass of the moisture passing through the test piece in the jar is weighted and water vapor permeability can be calculated.
  • the positioning of said at least two footwear parts on said base layer may be performed by a robotic pick and place apparatus, e.g. by sequentially picking each shoe part and placing it on the base layer at a predefined position and possibly with a predefined orientation.
  • the robotic pick and place apparatus may, controlled by control software of an e.g. central or local control unit, pick a first one of the at least two footwear parts from e.g. a local store and place it on the base layer, possibly at a predetermined position and possibly with a predetermined orientation.
  • the robotic pick and place apparatus may, controlled by the control software, pick a second one of the at least two footwear parts from e.g. a local store and place it on the base layer, possibly at a predetermined position and/or with predetermined orientation or possibly at a predetermined position and/or with a predetermined orientation in relation to the first footwear part. In case more than two footwear parts have to be placed, these steps may be repeated.
  • the footwear parts may be supplied to the robotic pick and place apparatus in the order, in which they have to be placed and that they in this manner are being identified to the robotic pick and place apparatus. It is also a possibility that the individual types of footwear parts are stored in individual e.g. store compartments, known to the control system and that the robotic pick and place apparatus in this manner may be controlled to pick the right footwear parts in the right order. A still other possibility is that the individual types of footwear parts are provided with identifications, e.g. numbers, bar codes, RFID devices, etc. that are readable by the robotic pick and place apparatus and that the robotic pick and place apparatus in this manner identifies the correct footwear part to be picked, e. g. the correct type, the right size, the right colour, left or right type, etc.
  • identifications e.g. numbers, bar codes, RFID devices, etc.
  • the at least two footwear parts may be stacked on the base layer and/or a plurality of said base layers may be stacked.
  • empty fixture frames may advantageously be stacked, whereby the job of mounting a base layer in each of these may be facilitated, and that the such prepared fixture frames may also be stacked, ready to be added to e.g. an input of the manufacturing line.
  • the fixture frames that have travelled through the processing may be stacked, e.g. after being relieved of surplus base layer material, etc. and be made ready to be re-introduced in the manufacturing liner.
  • the positioning of said at least two footwear parts on said base layer may be performed using input from a visual detection system, e.g. using a camera, a vision system or the like.
  • the positioning of the first as well as the subsequent footwear parts may be placed optimally as well as efficiently, e.g. using not only a possible reference and/or a fixture frame as reference, when placing the first footwear part, but also using an already placed footwear part, when placing a subsequent footwear part, so that e.g. a possible overlap between the parts will have an optimal size in view of e.g. a stitching seam or the like and whereby the finished product may have the required characteristics as regards e.g. strength as well as appearance.
  • said automated stitching may be made by an automated stitching device.
  • connection of the footwear parts may be made relatively quickly, efficiently and with the required precision, which in the prior art has not been possible, since an automated stitching of footwear parts, e.g. leather footwear parts has proven to be difficult to exercise and has turned out to have certain deficiencies, such as lack of precision, ill-fitting parts, etc.
  • an automated stitching using an automated stitching device may be performed due to the footwear parts being fixated in the intended positions and whereby the desired quality and appearance of the completed footwear may be achieved.
  • the respective footwear parts may be positioned and fixated on the base layer such that considerations are made as regards possible shifting of the overlapping leather parts that may happen, when stitching, due to the thickness and inherent characteristics such as flexibility of the leather material.
  • adjustments may be made to anticipate any movements of the leather parts that may happen during the automated stitching, such that the finished result may come out as originally intended.
  • stitching is usually made manually by experienced persons, who during the machine stitching may make e.g.
  • initial adjustments may be made to anticipate such movements, whereby an automated stitching may be made of the at least two footwear parts that are fixated to the base layer.
  • an automated stitching device in this connection will be understood as being an e.g. motor driven stitching device, which furthermore may perform the stitching in an at least partly automatically controlled manner.
  • the at least partly automatic control may be applied in a multitude of ways.
  • the stitching device may perform the stitching in accordance with a predefined route, defined in relation to the positions and/or orientation of the at least two footwear parts that have been fixated on the base layer.
  • a stitching route or routes may be defined in e.g. an X-Y system on the base layer and implemented by the stitching device.
  • the automated stitching device is configured to stitch along a route, which has been indicated on at least one of the at least two footwear parts, e.g.
  • the stitching device which may receive input data from an e.g. vision device, which may be combined with the stitching device or may be an independent device.
  • a marking may instead be invisible, e.g. an electronical or magnetic trail, a radiation trail, etc. which may require corresponding sensing devices to control the stitching device.
  • the stitching device may be controlled to follow an edge of one of the at least two footwear parts and stitch in a predetermined distance to the relevant footwear part, in which case input data may be provided by vision equipment or other means of detecting and/or following e.g. an edge part.
  • Other options for controlling or guiding the automated stitching are possible.
  • a stitching route is defined as a route in relation to an X-Y system on the base layer, where furthermore it may be supplemented with a guiding system, for example using a vision system to effect a predefined distance to an edge of one of the footwear parts and/or which ensures that the stitching is started and/or stopped, when e.g. the at least two footwear parts are not overlapping.
  • said at least two footwear parts may subsequent to being positioned on said base layer be transportable by moving said base layer.
  • the at least two shoe parts when they are fixated, connected by stitching or even when they are not connected or fixated may be moved with precision and efficiently when the base layer is moved, no matter whether this is via a conveyor, via a robotic pick and place device or in any other suitable manner, including manual handling, for example in connection with manual workstations, where for example the base layer and the connected at least two footwear parts may be processed manually, e.g. in connection with 3D stitching, transfer to a last, corrective handling, inspection or the like .
  • manual handling for example in connection with manual workstations
  • the base layer and the connected at least two footwear parts may be processed manually, e.g. in connection with 3D stitching, transfer to a last, corrective handling, inspection or the like .
  • the base layer with the at least two footwear parts connected to the base layer for further process step.
  • the processes may be performed in a single plane, i.e. a 2D plane, for example stitching in a single plane as defined by the base layer held by a fixture and/or the base layer held in itself by an e.g. conveyor.
  • the base layer with the at least two footwear parts connected to the base layer may be handled and processed within a 3D space, where for example 3D stitching of the footwear parts may be performed to provide a spatial form of the footwear parts on the process path to provide a completed footwear.
  • the base layer may be moved to a last for some of the later process steps, in particular for the steps relating to the application of a sole, for direct injection moulding of a sole, etc.
  • said base layer may be transportable by moving said fixture, which may comprise conveyance arrangement.
  • the at least two shoe parts carried by the base layer no matter whether they are fixated, connected by stitching or even when they are not connected or fixated may be moved in an automated manner by moving the fixture, which via the conveyance arrangement may be connected to a conveyor arrangement.
  • the conveyor arrangement may be a traditional conveyor belt, conveyor chain or the like, or may be a conveyor track or the like, upon which the fixture may be transported and/or guided. Other conveyor arrangements are possible.
  • the conveyance arrangement may be configured in such a manner that the fixture and thus also the base layer may be movable in relation to e.g. a conveyor, track or the like.
  • a movement may be controllable by e.g. a control system and perform in an automated manner, e.g. in order to place the fixture in a suitable position, orientation, inclination, etc. for the actual processing step to be performed, e.g. for example when allowing a heat press to fixate the footwear parts by activating the adhesive and thus e.g. pressing from above as well as below.
  • Another example may be tilting the fixture when allowing an automated stitching apparatus to grip on upper and lower side of the base layer to perform the stitching, etc.
  • the conveyance arrangement may be configured to have several degrees or freedom, e.g. being able to rotate around vertical as well as horizontal axes, tilt sideways and/or lengthways, etc.
  • an identifier may be provided for identifying at least one of the base layer, the fixture and at least one of the at least two footwear parts.
  • the identity of the actual piece of footwear being manufactured may be known, e.g. whether it is the fixture, the base layer or at least one of the footwear parts that are proceeding along the manufacturing line that is identified.
  • the control system may read the identity and perform the correct next step to be performed.
  • the control system when identifying the actual fixture, the actual base layer and/or an actual footwear part, may know that it is left hand shoe being made in size 39 with a specific colour and that the next step is addition of a facing.
  • the control system may thus retrieve such a shoe part and place it in the correct position, where after the fixture may be conveyed further on for fixation of the facing and subsequent automated stitching of the facing to the assembly.
  • the actual footwear being made may be understood as effectively controlling the manufacturing and processing steps, e.g. being the actual controller itself, in that the specific steps being performed will depend on the actual identity of the footwear being manufactured.
  • such identifiers may be RFID devices or similar electronic devices.
  • the automated stitching may include stitching at least part of one of said at least two footwear parts to the base layer.
  • the automated stitching may be effected in a straightforward manner, e.g. by stitching through e.g. the at least two footwear parts as well as the underlying base layer. Further, it is achieved that parts of the base layer that in this manner is being stitched to the footwear parts that at least partly forms a footwear upper, may serve as a part of the completed piece of footwear.
  • the method may comprise removal of the base layer from the at least two footwear parts prior to completion of the footwear or trimming of the base layer prior to completion of the footwear.
  • the at least two footwear parts when having been connected by automated stitching and possibly after having been connected with further footwear parts, may be removed from the base layer and/or fixture at a suitable point in time, for example when stitching in a single plane, i.e. 2D stitching has been made and subsequent stitching in 3D is the next processing step and/or where the connected footwear parts are planned to be mounted on e.g. a last for the further processing steps.
  • the base layer may possibly be removed totally or only parts of the base layer that may not be needed for the further processing and possible use in the completed footwear may be removed, e.g. in connection with a trimming of the surplus parts of the base layer and in connection with the removal of a possible fixture.
  • the base layer may be the lining of the footwear.
  • the base layer may fulfil the function both as a based layer and as lining of the footwear. This will effectuate the process of shoe making as the step of adding a lining may not be necessary.
  • Lining is defined as the material inside of the shoe that may come into contact with the entire foot; sides, top and heels.
  • the lining may be any suitable material such as e.g. leather or fabric such as cotton and viscose and/or synthetic material like e.g. polyester, acrylic and elastane. Other material for cold weather shoes may also be used such as e.g. wool or lambskin.
  • a further layer of lining e.g. as a middle layer between the base layer and the layer of leather.
  • An advantage of a middle layer could be improved insulation, rigidity, durability or other advantages suitable for footwear.
  • the elongation at break of the base layer may be less than 10%.
  • the elongation at break of the base layer material is less than 5%, typically less than 4%, or even less than 3%.
  • the base layer may be a reinforcing fabric with a tensile strength (breaking strength) above 5 N/mm, more typically above 10 N/mm, or even above 15 N/mm.
  • the ultimate tensile strength expressed in N/mm is the pulling force required to break a i m wide sample of the material.
  • a suitable test for measuring the ultimate tensile strength of the reinforcing fabric is ISO 3376 : 2011.
  • the needle for stitching is at least 0.9 mm in diameter.
  • the needle is thick enough to pierce the leather without breaking the needle. Further, the needle may be spear shaped to help cut the leather as the stitch is being formed.
  • needles suitable for sewing leather may be needles such as e.g. 110 LR, 110 FFG/R, 90 LR, 90 FFG/R.
  • the needle may comprise a coating.
  • Sewing needles may be coated with different materials such as e.g. Cr (Chrome), PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene) and TiN (Titanium nitride).
  • Cr Chrome
  • PTFE Polytetrafluoroethylene
  • TiN TiN
  • the type of thread used for sewing may for example be synthetic sewing threads, e.g. made from a material such as e.g. polyester or nylon threads.
  • Examples of threads used for sewing, according to embodiments of the invention may be Amann Size 60/3, 40/3 and 20/3.
  • the stitching length may be more than 3 stiches per cm, such as 3.5 stiches per cm, such as 4 stiches per cm.
  • the method may further comprise inspection of said at least two footwear parts when said at least two footwear parts have been positioned on the base layer, when said at least two footwear parts have been fixated and/or when said at least two footwear parts have been connected by an automated stitching.
  • the respective manufacturing steps may be controlled that the respective manufacturing steps have been performed as intended, before proceeding to the next steps, and in case it turns out that non-acceptable tolerances are detected, corrective actions may be taken and/or the relevant inspected item may be removed from the processing for correction and/or re use.
  • the inspection may be made by means of vision means, camera means, radiation means, etc.
  • the invention relates to a system for manufacturing footwear, said footwear comprising at least two footwear parts, e.g. shoe parts, which footwear parts are at least partly connected together by stitching for forming at least part of an upper part of said footwear, said system comprising
  • a base layer holding device configured for holding a base layer
  • an adhering activating device configured for fixating said at least two footwear parts on said base layer in respective relative positions
  • an automated stitching device configured for connecting said at least two footwear parts with each other
  • At least one of said at least two footwear parts may be a leather footwear part.
  • said base layer holding device configured for holding said base layer may be a fixture.
  • the base layer when held by such a fixture, may provide improved characteristics as regards e.g. strength, rigidity, load bearing capability, precision as regards positioning of e.g. footwear parts on it, etc. since the fixture may serve as a rigid frame or the like, by means of which the base layer may be e.g. tightened, for example to provide a planar surface, on which the e.g. footwear parts may be positioned with great precision. Furthermore, the fixture may facilitate the e.g. handling and/or transport of the base layer, with or without parts positioned on it.
  • said fixture may comprise conveyance arrangements configured for transport of said fixture.
  • said positioning device may comprise a robotic apparatus, e.g. a robotic pick and place apparatus.
  • said positioning device may further comprise a visual detection system, e.g. comprising a camera, a vision system, etc.
  • a visual detection system e.g. comprising a camera, a vision system, etc.
  • said adhering activating device may be configured for fixating said at least two footwear parts on said base layer in respective relative positions comprising an arrangement for activating non-activated adhesive, e.g. using friction, pressure, ultrasonic radiation, infrared radiation, heat transfer or any combination hereof.
  • the at least two footwear parts may not be accidentally moved from the intended position(s) and may remain there until having been connected by the automated stitching.
  • Such unintended moving of the at least two footwear parts might otherwise happen when the base layer or the fixture is being transported from one process step to the next and in particular when the base layer and the at least two footwear parts has to the stitched by an automatic stitching apparatus.
  • Hot melt glues may consist of one base material with various additives.
  • the composition is usually formulated to have a glass transition temperature (onset of brittleness) and a suitable high melt temperature as well.
  • the hot-melt adhesive may have a Tg (Tg: Glas transition temperature) between 50 degrees Celsius and 200 degrees Celsius, such as between 100 degrees Celsius and 200 degrees Celsius, such as between 110 degrees Celsius and 200 degrees Celsius, such as between 120 degrees Celsius and 200 degrees Celsius, such as between 100 degrees Celsius and 180 degrees Celsius, such as between 100 degrees Celsius and 170 degrees Celsius.
  • Tg Glas transition temperature
  • An advantage of applying heat to the process is that it is possible to control the adherence of adhesive to leather.
  • the temperature is raised as the adhesive is applied to the leather and/or base layer as e.g. a web and needs to be heated in order to melt and facilitate a strong mutual bonding between the leather pieces/layers.
  • the pressure P applied may be at least 2 bar, such as at least 3 bar, such as at least 4 bar. Pressure should be below a pressure where the leather is damaged or where the bonding is not performed according to intentions. An upper pressure could e.g. be 15 bar.
  • an advantage of applying pressure to the leather during heating of the leather is that the temperature of the leather may be lower than if not applying pressure.
  • the lower temperature is an advantage as the leather may not be burned and it will further keep the leather in the right shape with a minimum of shrinkage. If the temperature is too high, the leather may lose its moisture and therefore turn hard and wavy and thereby loose the flexibility and softness of the leather.
  • said system may comprise a reference for positioning said at least two footwear parts on said base layer.
  • the reference may be a visual reference, which may be utilized when manually positioning the at least two footwear parts and/or which may also be utilized when positioning the at least two footwear parts in an automated manner, e.g. using a robotic unit that may have vision means to enable the placing.
  • the reference may instead be based on other means such as electronic means, magnetic means, radiation means of various kinds, etc, as it will be apparent to a person skilled within the art of automation and related fields.
  • said base layer and/or said fixture for the base layer may comprise said reference.
  • said base layer may comprise an adhesive on at least a part of its surface.
  • the at least two footwear parts may not be accidentally moved from the intended position(s) and may remain there until having been connected by the automated stitching.
  • Such unintended moving of the at least two footwear parts might otherwise happen when the base layer or the fixture is being transported from one process step to the next and in particular when the base layer and the at least two footwear parts has to the stitched by an automatic stitching apparatus.
  • the system may further comprise an applicator for applying adhesive to at least part of said base layer and/or at least part of at least one of said at least two footwear parts.
  • said adhesive may be provided as a non-activated adhesive on said base layer and/or said at least one of said at least two footwear parts, which non-activated adhesive is activatable for fixating the at least two footwear parts on the base layer.
  • said non-activated adhesive on said base layer and/or said at least one of said at least two footwear parts may be activatable using friction, pressure, ultrasonic radiation, infrared radiation, heat transfer or any combination hereof.
  • leather layers of said at least one of said at least two footwear parts comprising said non-activated adhesive may have a water vapor permeability of above 5 mg/cm2/hour, such as above 8 mg/cm2/hour, such as above 10 mg/cm2/hour.
  • the material allows liquid water (perspiration) to transport away from the skin to the outside, thus allowing comprehensive comfort to the wearer.
  • said positioning device for positioning said at least two footwear parts on said base layer may comprise a robotic pick and place apparatus, e.g. configured for sequentially picking each footwear part and placing it on the base layer at a predefined position and possibly with a predefined orientation.
  • the robotic pick and place apparatus may, controlled by control software of an e.g. central or local control unit, pick a first one of the at least two footwear parts from e.g. a local store and place it on the base layer, possibly at a predetermined position and possibly with a predetermined orientation. Subsequently, the robotic pick and place apparatus may, controlled by the control software, pick a second one of the at least two footwear parts from e.g. a local store and place it on the base layer, possibly at a predetermined position and/or with predetermined orientation or possibly at a predetermined position and/or with a predetermined orientation in relation to the first footwear part. In case more than two footwear parts have to be placed, these steps may be repeated.
  • control software of an e.g. central or local control unit
  • the footwear parts may be supplied to the robotic pick and place apparatus in the order, in which they have to be placed and that they in this manner are being identified to the robotic pick and place apparatus. It is also a possibility that the individual types of footwear parts are stored in individual e.g. store compartments, known to the control system and that the robotic pick and place apparatus in this manner may be controlled to pick the right footwear parts in the right order. A still other possibility is that the individual types of footwear parts are provided with identifications, e.g. numbers, bar codes, RFID devices, etc. that are readable by the robotic pick and place apparatus and that the robotic pick and place apparatus in this manner identifies the correct footwear part to be picked, e. g. the correct type, the right size, the right colour, left or right type, etc.
  • identifications e.g. numbers, bar codes, RFID devices, etc.
  • said robotic pick and place apparatus may comprise a vacuum gripper.
  • a robotic vacuum gripper when used, this may be equipped with a plurality of relatively small suctions cups or the like, e.g. arranged in an array corresponding to e.g. the size of footwear parts to be gripped.
  • the individual suction cups or the like may be individually supplied with vacuum.
  • a further axis of the vacuum gripper robot may be implemented by having the active suctions cups or the like, e.g. the suction cups actually gripping a footwear part, be controlled to be extended or in another configuration by having the inactive suction cups be controlled to be retracted, when gripping, positioning and/or moving etc. a footwear part.
  • the robotic vacuum gripper may, when implemented in such a manner with a further axis, be used with greater delicacy, with greater precision and in general with greater degrees of freedom as regards e.g. the ability to turn or in general angularly maneuver a footwear part, position a footwear part near a frame or fixture for the base layer, utilize the available base layer area to a greater extent, etc.
  • said system may be configured for stacking parts such as the at least two footwear parts on the base layer, a plurality of said footwear parts and/or a plurality of said base layers.
  • the system may comprise a visual detection system, e.g. having a camera, a vision system or the like for providing input for the positioning device.
  • a visual detection system e.g. having a camera, a vision system or the like for providing input for the positioning device.
  • the positioning of the first as well as the subsequent footwear parts may be placed optimally as well as efficiently, e.g. using not only a possible reference and/or a fixture frame as reference, when placing the first footwear part, but also using an already placed footwear part, when placing a subsequent footwear part, so that e.g. a possible overlap between the parts will have an optimal size in view of e.g. a stitching seam or the like and whereby the finished product may have the required characteristics as regards e.g. strength as well as appearance.
  • said automated stitching device may be configured for stitching at least part of one of said at least two footwear parts to the base layer and/or to the other one of said at least two footwear parts in an at least partly automatically controlled manner.
  • connection of the footwear parts may be made relatively quickly, efficiently and with the required precision, which in the prior art has not been possible, since an automated stitching of footwear parts, e.g. leather footwear parts has proven to be difficult to exercise and has turned out to have certain deficiencies, such as lack of precision, ill-fitting parts, etc.
  • an automated stitching using an automated stitching device may be performed due to the footwear parts being fixated in the intended positions and whereby the desired quality and appearance of the completed footwear may be achieved.
  • the respective footwear parts may be positioned and fixated on the base layer such that considerations are made as regards possible shifting of the overlapping leather parts that may happen, when stitching, due to the thickness and inherent characteristics such as flexibility of the leather material.
  • adjustments may be made to anticipate any movements of the leather parts that may happen during the automated stitching, such that the finished result may come out as originally intended.
  • stitching is usually made manually by experienced persons, who during the machine stitching may make e.g.
  • initial adjustments may be made to anticipate such movements, whereby an automated stitching may be made of the at least two footwear parts that are fixated to the base layer.
  • an automated stitching device in this connection will be understood as being an e.g. motor driven stitching device, which furthermore may perform the stitching in an at least partly automatically controlled manner.
  • the at least partly automatic control may be applied in a multitude of ways.
  • the stitching device may perform the stitching in accordance with a predefined route, defined in relation to the positions and/or orientation of the at least two footwear parts that have been fixated on the base layer.
  • a stitching route or routes may be defined in e.g. an X-Y system on the base layer and implemented by the stitching device.
  • the automated stitching device is configured to stitch along a route, which has been indicated on at least one of the at least two footwear parts, e.g.
  • the stitching device which may receive input data from an e.g. vision device, which may be combined with the stitching device or may be an independent device.
  • a marking may instead be invisible, e.g. an electronical or magnetic trail, a radiation trail, etc. which may require corresponding sensing devices to control the stitching device.
  • the stitching device may be controlled to follow an edge of one of the at least two footwear parts and stitch in a predetermined distance to the relevant footwear part, in which case input data may be provided by vision equipment or other means of detecting and/or following e.g. an edge part.
  • Other options for controlling or guiding the automated stitching are possible.
  • a stitching route is defined as a route in relation to an X-Y system on the base layer, where furthermore it may be supplemented with a guiding system, for example using a vision system to effect a predefined distance to an edge of one of the footwear parts and/or which ensures that the stitching is started and/or stopped, when e.g. the at least two footwear parts are not overlapping.
  • the system may further comprise a conveying device wherein said at least two footwear parts subsequent to being positioned on said base layer are transportable by moving said base layer.
  • the at least two shoe parts when they are fixated, connected by stitching or even when they are not connected or fixated may be moved with precision and efficiently when the base layer is moved, no matter whether this is via a conveyor, via a robotic pick and place device or in any other suitable manner, including manual handling, for example in connection with manual workstations, where for example the base layer and the connected at least two footwear parts may be processed manually, e.g. in connection with 3D stitching, transfer to a last, corrective handling, inspection or the like .
  • manual handling for example in connection with manual workstations
  • the base layer and the connected at least two footwear parts may be processed manually, e.g. in connection with 3D stitching, transfer to a last, corrective handling, inspection or the like .
  • the base layer with the at least two footwear parts connected to the base layer for further process step.
  • the processes may be performed in a single plane, i.e. a 2D plane, for example stitching in a single plane as defined by the base layer held by a fixture and/or the base layer held in itself by an e.g. conveyor.
  • the base layer with the at least two footwear parts connected to the base layer may be handled and processed within a 3D space, where for example 3D stitching of the footwear parts may be performed to provide a spatial form of the footwear parts on the process path to provide a completed footwear.
  • the base layer may be moved to a last for some of the later process steps, in particular for the steps relating to the application of a sole, for direct injection moulding of a sole, etc.
  • said fixture may comprise a conveyance arrangement.
  • the at least two shoe parts carried by the base layer may be moved in an automated manner by moving the fixture, which via the conveyance arrangement may be connected to a conveyor arrangement.
  • the conveyor arrangement may be a traditional conveyor belt, conveyor chain or the like, or may be a conveyor track or the like, upon which the fixture may be transported and/or guided. Other conveyor arrangements are possible.
  • the conveyance arrangement may be configured in such a manner that the fixture and thus also the base layer may be movable in relation to e.g. a conveyor, track or the like.
  • a movement may be controllable by e.g. a control system and perform in an automated manner, e.g. in order to place the fixture in a suitable position, orientation, inclination, etc. for the actual processing step to be performed, e.g. for example when allowing a heat press to fixate the footwear parts by activating the adhesive and thus e.g. pressing from above as well as below.
  • Another example may be tilting the fixture when allowing an automated stitching apparatus to grip on upper and lower side of the base layer to perform the stitching, etc.
  • the conveyance arrangement may be configured to have several degrees or freedom, e.g. being able to rotate around vertical as well as horizontal axes, tilt sideways and/or lengthways, etc.
  • an identifier may be provided for identifying at least one of the base layer, the fixture and at least one of the at least two footwear parts.
  • the identity of the actual piece of footwear being manufactured may be known, e.g. whether it is the fixture, the base layer or at least one of the footwear parts that are proceeding along the manufacturing line that is identified.
  • the control system may read the identity and perform the correct next step to be performed.
  • the control system when identifying the actual fixture, the actual base layer and/or an actual footwear part, may know that it is left hand shoe being made in size 39 with a specific colour and that the next step is addition of a facing.
  • the control system may thus retrieve such a shoe part and place it in the correct position, where after the fixture may be conveyed further on for fixation of the facing and subsequent automated stitching of the facing to the assembly.
  • the actual footwear being made may be understood as effectively controlling the manufacturing and processing steps, e.g. being the actual controller itself, in that the specific steps being performed will depend on the actual identity of the footwear being manufactured.
  • the identifier may be an RFID device.
  • the automated stitching device may be configured for stitching at least part of one of said at least two footwear parts to the base layer.
  • the automated stitching may be effected in a straightforward manner, e.g. by stitching through e.g. the at least two footwear parts as well as the underlying base layer. Further, it is achieved that parts of the base layer that in this manner is being stitched to the footwear parts that at least partly forms a footwear upper, may serve as a part of the completed piece of footwear.
  • the system may be configured for removal of the base layer from the at least two footwear parts prior to completion of the footwear or trimming of the base layer prior to completion of the footwear.
  • the at least two footwear parts when having been connected by automated stitching and possibly after having been connected with further footwear parts, may be removed from the base layer and/or fixture at a suitable point in time, for example when stitching in a single plane, i.e. 2D stitching has been made and subsequent stitching in 3D is the next processing step and/or where the connected footwear parts are planned to be mounted on e.g. a last for the further processing steps.
  • the base layer may possibly be removed totally or only parts of the base layer that may not be needed for the further processing and possible use in the completed footwear may be removed, e.g. in connection with a trimming of the surplus parts of the base layer and in connection with the removal of a possible fixture.
  • the base layer may be the lining of the footwear.
  • the base layer may fulfil the function both as a base layer and as lining of the footwear. This will effectuate the process of shoe making as the step of adding a lining may not be necessary.
  • Lining is defined as the material inside of the shoe that may come into contact with the entire foot; sides, top and heels.
  • the lining may be any suitable material such as e.g. leather or fabric such as cotton and viscose and/or synthetic material like e.g. polyester, acrylic and elastane. Other material for cold weather shoes may also be used such as e.g. wool or lambskin.
  • a further layer of lining e.g. as a middle layer between the base layer and the layer of leather.
  • An advantage of a middle layer could be improved insulation, rigidity, durability or other advantages suitable for footwear.
  • the system may further comprise a quality inspection system for inspection of said at least two footwear parts, e.g. when said at least two footwear parts have been positioned on the base layer, when said at least two footwear parts have been fixated and/or when said at least two footwear parts have been connected by an automated stitching.
  • a quality inspection system for inspection of said at least two footwear parts, e.g. when said at least two footwear parts have been positioned on the base layer, when said at least two footwear parts have been fixated and/or when said at least two footwear parts have been connected by an automated stitching.
  • the inspection may be made by means of vision means, camera means, radiation means, etc.
  • Fig. 1 illustrates an exemplary footwear manufactured according to an embodiment of the invention
  • Fig. 2a illustrates a top view of an exemplary vamp with a toe cap and facing according to an embodiment of the invention
  • Fig. 2b illustrates a top view of an exemplary vamp with a toe cap, facing and quarter according to another embodiment of the invention
  • Figs. 3a-c illustrate in perspective views an exemplary base layer, whereon footwear parts such as vamp and toe cap are positioned according to various embodiments of the invention
  • Fig. 3d illustrates the connected footwear upper parts as shown in Fig. 3b being folded into a 3D upper
  • Figs. 4a-4d illustrate in perspective views an example of initial or preparatory steps of an automatic stitching method according to an embodiment of the invention
  • Fig. 5a illustrates an outlay seen from above of a module-based manufacturing line according to an embodiment of the invention
  • Fig. 5b illustrates a further outlay seen from above of a module-based manufacturing line according to an embodiment of the invention
  • Fig. 6 is a schematic enlarged view of an example of a workstation for gripping a footwear part and placing it at a specific location at/on a base layer, seen from above,
  • Fig. 7 is a schematic enlarged view of an example of a workstation for automated stitching of an assembly of footwear parts at/on a base layer, seen from above,
  • Fig 8 illustrates an outlay seen from above of a module-based manufacturing line in continuation according to an embodiment of the invention
  • Fig. 9 illustrates a further example of an outlay seen from above of a module- based manufacturing line according to an embodiment of the invention.
  • Fig. 10 illustrates a still further example of an outlay seen from above of a module-based manufacturing line according to an embodiment of the invention, where further operation processes for manufacturing a piece of footwear are illustrated. Detailed description
  • Fig. 1 illustrates an exemplary footwear which may be made within the scope of the invention.
  • the exemplified footwear is a shoe 10 comprising an upper 11 wherein the upper 11 comprises footwear defining parts.
  • the footwear defining parts are exemplified with a vamp 60 located as the section of the upper that covers the front of the foot as far back as the join of the quarter; a tongue 13 defined as a strip of material located under the laces of a shoe.
  • the tongue may sit on the top center part of the shoe on top of the bridge of the foot and may be attached to the vamp 60; quarter 14 located on the rear and sides of the upper that covers the heel that are behind the vamp.
  • the heel section of the quarter 14 may be strengthened with a stiffener, which helps support the rear of the foot.
  • a toe cap 62 wherein toe caps can take various forms, but types may be complete replacements for the front upper of the shoe; stitched over toecaps that add an extra layer to the upper; solid toe caps for protection, such as steel toe caps. Stitch over toe caps may be decorative in nature.
  • an outer counter 17 located at the heel of the shoe as a stiff piece of material positioned between the lining and upper that helps maintain the shape of the shoe, eyelets 18 as the holes for shoelaces and facing 19 being the part of the shoe where the shoelace eyelets are located.
  • the illustrated shoe 10 may preferably comprise a lining 30 on the inner side of the quarter.
  • the illustrated shoe parts may preferably be attached to a sole 16 e.g. by adhesion, gluing, stitching, injection molding or any relevant methods of attaching a sole.
  • the sole may comprise several parts and layers e.g. inner sole 20, mid-sole (not shown) and outer sole 16.
  • the shoe may of course comprise other not-shown features and parts and the shapes and configuration of the parts may be different. Most shoes may comprise more than 15 or 20 shoe defining parts.
  • Fig. 2a illustrates a top view of parts of an upper e.g. of the shoe of fig. 1, comprising a vamp 60, a toe cap 62 and facing 19 made within the scope of the invention.
  • the vamp 60 and toe cap 62 are assembled by fitting the toe cap 62 on top of the vamp 60 as illustrated and then attached together.
  • the vamp and facing are in the same way assembled by fitting the facing 19 on top of the vamp 60 as illustrated and then attached to each other.
  • the attachment of the leather pieces may be mediated by adhesion e.g. glue or any suitable adhesions but may also be a more lose attachment or they may only be loosely assembled to each other.
  • adhesion e.g. glue or any suitable adhesions but may also be a more lose attachment or they may only be loosely assembled to each other.
  • Fig. 2b illustrates in a similar manner a top view of parts of an upper e.g. of the shoe of fig. 1, where the parts comprise a vamp 60, a toe cap 62, a facing 19 and a quarter 14 made within the scope of the invention.
  • the vamp 60 and toe cap 62 are assembled by fitting the toe cap 62 on top of the vamp 60 as illustrated and then attached together.
  • the vamp and facing are in the same way assembled by fitting the facing 19 on top of the vamp 60 as illustrated and then attached to each other.
  • the quarter 14 and the vamp 60 are in the same way assembled by fitting the quarter 14 on top of the vamp 60 at one side of the vamp as illustrated and then attached to each other.
  • the attachment of the leather pieces may be mediated by adhesion e.g. glue or any suitable adhesions but may also be a more lose attachment or they may only be loosely assembled to each other.
  • adhesion e.g. glue or any suitable adhesions but may also be a more lose attachment or they may only be loosely assembled to each other.
  • the leather pieces may then be sewed together as it is illustrated with a stitching line 22 by an embodiment of the method according to the invention.
  • Stitching methods applied may be any methods relevant for stitching shoes.
  • the part of the quarter 14 pointing downwards in fig. 2b may be assembled with the other side of the vamp 60, requiring that the parts are formed 3 -dimensionally to essentially take the form of a shoe upper and stitched together as indicated with the stitching line 22 on the lower part of the quarter 14.
  • Figs. 3a-3c illustrate in perspective views an exemplary base layer 30, whereon footwear parts such as a vamp 60 and a toe cap 62 are positioned in accordance with various embodiments of the invention.
  • Fig. 3a illustrates a lining 30 being used as a base layer and with shoe parts exemplified by a vamp 60 and a toe cap 62 positioned on the base layer 30.
  • figs. 3a-3c For reasons of clarity, only a few footwear parts are illustrated in figs. 3a-3c, but it will be noted that further footwear parts may be positioned on the base layer, e.g. corresponding to the footwear parts as illustrated in figs. 2a and 2b and/or fig.
  • the vamp 60 and the toe cap 62 are being fixated on the base layer, for example by activating an adhesive on the base layer.
  • the non-activated adhesive may be activated by using pressure, friction, ultrasonic radiation, infrared radiation, heat, possibly in any combination.
  • Fig. 3b corresponds to fig. 3a, but here it is illustrated that a quarter 14 has been positioned at one side of the vamp 60, fixated on the base layer 30, etc. in such a manner that by a subsequent stitching process the footwear parts are being connected together and to the base layer.
  • Fig. 3c corresponds essentially to the scenario as shown in fig. 3b, but in fig. 3c it is illustrated that the base layer material is exploited to a greater degree by placing footwear parts, e.g. a further vamp 60, toe cap 62 and quarter 14, forming a further footwear upper, where these further parts form a mirrored version of the first mentioned footwear parts such that the first may relate to a left footwear upper and the second may relate to a right footwear upper.
  • footwear parts e.g. a further vamp 60, toe cap 62 and quarter 14
  • a further footwear upper where these further parts form a mirrored version of the first mentioned footwear parts such that the first may relate to a left footwear upper and the second may relate to a right footwear upper.
  • Another advantage may be that a pair of footwear uppers, e.g. relating to one and the same size, type, etc. in this manner may be processed simultaneously and/or following each other in the manufacturing process.
  • Fig. 3d illustrates the footwear upper parts as shown in fig. 3b after they have been connected by stitching and where the superfluous parts of the base layer have been trimmed off, thus leaving essentially only the base layer 30 that is on the underside of the parts 14, 60 and 62.
  • a folding of the connected footwear parts into a 3D upper may be performed as illustrated by the arrow A.
  • the footwear upper may be connected and stitched as it has been explained above in connection with fig. 2b. It is noted that the base layer material will thus serve as a lining in the manufactured footwear upper.
  • Figs. 4a-4d illustrate an example of initial or preparatory steps of an automatic stitching method according to an embodiment of the invention, wherein a fixture 40 is utilized in the processing steps as it will be explained in detail further below.
  • the fixture may be configured in a multitude of variations.
  • the fixture 40 is here illustrated, seen in a perspective view partly from above and partly from the side, as being an essentially rectangular fixture frame 42 as shown in fig. 4a, which fixture frame serves to withhold a base layer.
  • the fixture 40 comprises or can be combined with conveyance arrangements 44 (indicated in fig. 4a), e.g. placed underneath the fixture frame 42 and configured for facilitating a controllable transport, e.g. along a conveyor, along a track or in any other suitable manner.
  • the fixture 40 e.g. the fixture frame 42 is configured for holding a base layer 50.
  • the fixture frame 42 may have a clamping function, e.g. by being openable and closable, and a base layer 50 may thus be gripped by the fixture frame 42 along the outer perimeter of the base layer.
  • the base layer 50 which is an essentially non-stretchable material, is held by the fixture 40 in such a manner that the base layer 50 extends in a plane defined by the fixture and essentially without deviating from the plane at locations within the inner of the fixture frame.
  • a reference 52 may be defined in the 2-dimensional plane defined by the base layer 50, e.g.
  • the reference 52 may be defined in other manners, e.g. by having a marking on the base layer 50, for example visible and/or detectable by e.g. vision equipment, detecting apparatus, etc.
  • a footwear part such as e.g. a vamp 60 is positioned on the base layer 50 in a position and possibly with an orientation in accordance with the work instructions, e.g. the control software.
  • the footwear part may for example be gripped and positioned on the base layer by a pick and place robot or another type of robotic apparatus.
  • a further footwear part e.g. a toe cap 62
  • the toe cap 62 may be positioned based on the reference 52 and in accordance with work instructions, e.g. control software, for e.g. a pick and place robot or the like.
  • control software may receive input not only regarding the reference 52 but may also receive input as regards the actual position and/or orientation of the previously placed footwear part.
  • the latter positioned part e.g. the toe cap 62
  • the latter positioned part e.g. the toe cap 62
  • the latter positioned part may be positioned based alone on the position of the former positioned part, e.g. the vamp 60. A combination may be preferable, though.
  • an identifier 70 may be arranged on the fixture 40, e.g. on, at or in the fixture frame 42. Instead or in addition such an identifier 70’ may be arranged in connection with the base layer 50. Further, it is noted that the identifier, which in such case will be referred to as 70”, instead or additionally may be arranged in connection with the footwear parts, e.g. on or in one or more of the footwear parts.
  • the fixture, the base layer with the parts being positioned on it and/or the footwear part(s) may be e.g. tracked along a processing line and in case a control system has been provided with information concerning the involved identifiers, the relevant processing may be performed in accordance with e.g.
  • identifiers may allow that e.g. a particular fixture, base layer and/or footwear parts may be removed from e.g. the processing line and later added again, at which stage the identifier may be read by a reader and an e.g. status of steps already performed may be provided to the control system as well as the actual characteristics of the work in progress.
  • the identifier devices may be RFID devices or any other suitable electronically readable devices.
  • exemplary footwear parts shown in figs. 4c and 4d are for illustrative purposes only and that other footwear parts may be used as exemplary footwear parts such as shown and explained in connection with figs. 2a, 2b and 3a-3c.
  • a fixture 40 with a base layer 50 may be utilized when positioning footwear parts for a single footwear upper, e.g. as it has been illustrated in figs. 4c and 4d, but that advantageously a pair of footwear uppers may be processed on a single fixture with a base layer such as it has been explained with reference to fig. 3 c.
  • Further configurations are possible, e.g. with a single fixture frame 42 and its associated base layer 50 carrying parts for more than two footwear uppers, etc. if the sizes permits.
  • the base layer 50 may be utilized in a completed footwear upper as a lining 30.
  • a possible outlay of a module-based manufacturing line 100 is illustrated, seen from above.
  • a number of modules 101-109 are shown, which may be utilized in connection with a manufacturing line for footwear and where e.g. footwear parts, materials, etc. necessary for the manufacture as well as subparts of the e.g. footwear may be transported along the manufacturing line 100, e.g. generally from left to right in fig. 5a, while manufacturing steps, handling, etc, are being performed along the line 100.
  • the transport e.g. conveying may take place along the hatched route and as illustrated with the arrows as it will be further elucidated in the following.
  • the respective modules are configured with interfaces, e.g. clear mechanical, pneumatic, electronic and/or communication interfaces, thereby enabling a quick reconfiguration of the modules and the line 100 to accommodate manufacture of e.g. new or changed products, to enable additional modules to be included, e.g. a further workstation for automatic stitching, etc.
  • interfaces e.g. clear mechanical, pneumatic, electronic and/or communication interfaces
  • the module 101 is a module for a stacking device, where stacks of e.g. footwear parts, base layers, etc. SI, S2, S3 and Sn may be fed to the line.
  • the module 101 may handle stacks of fixtures 40, each comprising a fixture frame 42 and a base layer 50 that may be a lining material 30, which e.g. one by one are fed to the manufacturing line 100.
  • the objects may be forwarded to different locations via a module 102 for 3 -way transfer as illustrated by the arrows, e.g. moved across the module 103 to the next module 104 or directed to the module 103, e.g. a work station, at the side.
  • the module 102 for 3-way transfer may serve to forward objects from the module 103, e.g. a work station, to the next module 104.
  • the module 103 at the side of the line may be a work station such as a module for a pick and place device, which furthermore may comprise a visual detection system to enable the pick and place device to e.g. grip a footwear part and place it at a specific location at/on a base layer.
  • the pick and place device at the module 103 may e.g. grip one or more further footwear part(s) and place it (them) at a further specific location at the base layer and/or at overlapping positions on the first placed footwear part.
  • the pick and place device may place the footwear part(s) with a desired orientation, e.g. in relation to the base layer and/or in relation to a previously placed footwear part.
  • the object being transported from the module 103 to the module 104 may be a base layer, upon which two or more footwear parts are positioned.
  • a heat press device or another type of device for activating a layer of non-activated adhesive on the base layer is arranged for activating the adhesive as previously discussed, thereby fixating the footwear parts on the lase layer in the positions, in which they have been placed.
  • the base layer with the fixated footwear parts may next be forwarded to a module 105 having a process quality inspection system, e.g. having a vision or camera component for checking e.g. the positions of the footwear parts, the overlap, etc.
  • a process quality inspection system e.g. having a vision or camera component for checking e.g. the positions of the footwear parts, the overlap, etc.
  • the specific base layer with footwear parts may proceed e.g. directly to the end of the line, may be redirected without being used or may be removed in another manner, in all cases possibly for being corrected, used for other purposes or in other manners reused.
  • the base layer with footwear parts When the base layer with footwear parts passes the module 105 having the process quality inspection system, it reaches a second module 106 having a 3-way transfer as illustrated by the arrows.
  • the base layer with footwear parts may be directed to module 107, e.g. a workstation having an automated stitching device in the form of e.g. a robotic stitching system, by means of which the fixated footwear parts and possibly the base layer are being connected to each other by stitching.
  • the base layer with the fixated and now connected footwear parts is being transported to a module 108 for a stacking device, where a stacking of the processed base layers with the fixated and now connected footwear parts is being performed before being subjected to further processing in order to provide a completed piece of footwear.
  • the further processing may include removal of the base layer 50 with the connected footwear parts from the fixture frames 42, whereafter the fixture frames may be prepared for being returned to the input of the manufacturing line 100.
  • a module 109 is illustrated, which is a module for a fixture or jig preparation device, where for example base layers 50 may be mounted in or on the individual fixtures 40 and in general made ready to enter a manufacturing line 100 as illustrated in fig. 5.
  • the module 109 may for example comprise a movable magazine, which can be moved to the module 101 when the magazine has been filled with fixtures 40, which have been provided with new base layer material.
  • a further example of a manufacturing line 100 is illustrated. This corresponds in essence to the manufacturing line that has been shown in fig. 5a and has been explained in connection with fig. 5a.
  • the fixture preparation module 109 is placed in front of the manufacturing line 100.
  • the fixture preparation module 109 as well as the module 108 for a stacker device at the end of the manufacturing line 100 may comprise an elevator each.
  • an underlying conveyor 111 e.g. a conveyor belt, is arranged, leading from the module 108 to the fixture preparation module 109.
  • This underlying conveyor 111 may be arranged in lower parts of the respective modules, e.g. arranged under a conveyor 110 that transports fixtures in the manufacturing direction.
  • fixture frames that arrive at the module 108 may be lowered down by the elevator and transported to the fixture preparation module 109 by the underlying conveyor 111.
  • they are lifted upwards and may be prepared by removing any base material left and by mounting a new piece of base layer material in the fixture frame.
  • This may be done by an operator 118, who also pushes the now prepared fixture frame to the module 101 for a stacking device, ready to be used in the manufacture.
  • the module 101 for a stacking device may hold a plurality, e.g. 5 or more, of fixture frames and may thus serve as a buffer.
  • the fixture handling and transport arrangement shown in fig. 5b may be used in connection with other manufacturing line configurations as well, e.g. the examples shown in figs. 8, 9 and 10.
  • FIG. 6 an example of a schematically shown workstation 103 for gripping a footwear part and placing it at a specific location at/on a base layer is shown in an enlarged view from above.
  • a fixture 40 comprising a base layer 50 have been transported to the workstation 103 by e.g. a conveyor 110.
  • the workstation comprises a pick and place robot 114, which has a robot arm 115, for example an articulated and extendable arm that may be rotated around a base part and which has a gripper such as a vacuum gripper 116.
  • robot arm 115 for example an articulated and extendable arm that may be rotated around a base part and which has a gripper such as a vacuum gripper 116.
  • various types of robots may be utilized for picking and placing the footwear parts and it should be mentioned that for example a SCARA robot may be utilized.
  • a robotic vacuum gripper in case a robotic vacuum gripper is used, this may be equipped with a plurality of relatively small suctions cups or the like, e.g. arranged in an array corresponding to e.g. the size of footwear parts to be gripped.
  • the individual suction cups or the like may be individually supplied with vacuum.
  • a further axis of the vacuum gripper robot may be implemented by having the active suctions cups or the like, e.g. the suction cups actually gripping a footwear part, be controlled to be extended or in another configuration by having the inactive suction cups be controlled to be retracted, when gripping, positioning and/or moving etc. a footwear part.
  • the robotic vacuum gripper may, when implemented in such a manner with a further axis, be used with greater delicacy, with greater precision and in general with greater degrees of freedom as regards e.g. the ability to turn or in general angularly maneuver a footwear part, position a footwear part near a frame or fixture for the base layer, utilize the available base layer area to a greater extent, etc.
  • the workstation 103 may furthermore comprise a visual detection system to enable the pick and place device to operate, where the visual detection system may comprise a detector device 112 that may be connected to various detectors, cameras, vision devices in order to provide the desired to the e.g. robot 114.
  • the visual detection system may comprise a detector device 112 that may be connected to various detectors, cameras, vision devices in order to provide the desired to the e.g. robot 114.
  • the robot 114 is controlled by software to pick individual footwear parts, e.g. leather parts and place these on the base layer 50 at specified positions, in a certain order, etc. as it has been explained above. These footwear parts may be picked from e.g. leather part supplies 120.
  • the fixture 40 with the base layer 50 has received for example two assemblies 64 of footwear parts, it may be transported further on in the processing line, e.g. to the module 104 for activating adhesive or to another module. Also, it may be parked for a longer or shorter time until processing capacity is ready, for example at the workstation 103 that may also serve as a buffer.
  • FIG. 7 an example of a schematically shown workstation 107 for automated stitching is shown in an enlarged view from above.
  • a fixture 40 comprising a base layer 50 and whereon for example two assemblies 64 of footwear parts are fixated has been transported to the workstation 107 by e.g. a conveyor 110.
  • the workstation 107 comprises a schematically illustrated automated stitching apparatus 130, which is arranged in connection with a gantry device 132, possibly a gantry robot, in such a manner that relative movement in the transverse as well as the conveyor direction (the longitudinal direction) is facilitated.
  • a gantry device 132 possibly a gantry robot
  • the footwear parts of the e.g. two assemblies 64 may in this manner be stitched to the base layer 50 and to each other.
  • the workstation 107 may furthermore comprise a visual detection system to enable the automated stitching apparatus 130 to operate, where the visual detection system may comprise a detector device 112 that may be connected to various detectors, cameras, vision devices in order to provide the desired control signals to the e.g. gantry device 132 and the automated stitching apparatus 132. These are controlled by software to e.g. perform a stitching along predefined routes, along certain edges of the footwear parts or in any other manner to provide a predefined stitching of the footwear parts.
  • the fixture 40 with the base layer 50 and the two assemblies 64 of footwear parts may be transported further on in the processing line, e.g. to the module 108 for further processing.
  • a possible outlay of a continuation of a module based manufacturing line 100 according to an embodiment of the invention is illustrated, seen from above.
  • the modules are illustrated as a continuation of modules e.g. from a series of modules 100 that may be a series of modules as illustrated in fig. 5a. It may also be a continuation of the illustrated modules to other manufacturing processes relevant for footwear making.
  • fig. 9 a further example of a manufacturing line 100 is illustrated. This corresponds in essence to the manufacturing line that has been shown in fig. 5a and has been explained in connection with fig. 5, but in fig. 9 it is exemplified that quality inspection may be performed at different steps in the manufacturing line 100.
  • fig. 5a it was shown that a module 105 for process quality inspection was placed following the module 104 for activation of adhesive.
  • the module 105 for process quality inspection may instead be placed following immediately after the automated stitching has been performed, e.g. after the module 107 for automated stitching and the module 106 for 3 -way transfer. It will be apparent that a process quality inspection may be performed at both of these exemplified positions, at only one of these and/or at any other suitable position.
  • modules 101- 109 are possible in addition to the configurations exemplified in the figures.
  • the modules 103 and 107 relating to the robotic positioning of shoe parts on fixture frames holding base layer and the automated stitching, respectively are exemplified as stations, where the objects are being removed from a main process line and are being processed in e.g. a loop configuration, it is a possibility that these operations may be performed as inline processes, e.g. being performed in the main process line without being looped out.
  • a further example of a configuration of a manufacturing line 100 is illustrated. This corresponds in essence to the manufacturing line that has been shown in fig. 5 and has been explained in connection with fig. 5, but here it is further shown that the output from the module 108, e.g. base layers with stitched footwear parts that have been stitched in a 2 dimensional plane and where e.g. the surplus base layer has been trimmed so that the remaining base material may serve as lining, is being forwarded to a further 3D processing 140.
  • This 3D processing 140 may e.g. include closing the footwear uppers by stitching them together as it has been explained above, e.g. in connection with fig.
  • 3d may further comprise attaching Strobel material to the 3D upper in advance of e.g. injection of sole material. Further processes may be performed here at 140, as it will be apparent to a person skilled within the field of footwear manufacture.
  • a sole attachment process such as for example a direct injection production (DIP) 150 and related operations, resulting in a completed piece of footwear 10.
  • DIP direct injection production
  • the leather can derive from any source, including animal-sources such as bovine hide, cow hide, horse hide, goat skin, sheep skin, kangaroo hide, reptiles, fish and the like.
  • the leather may also derive from a non-animal sources such as e.g. natural materials derived from e.g. plants, unicellular or multicellular organisms.
  • the leather is a mammal or marsupial leather (i.e. derives from a hide from a mammal such as horse or bovine e.g. cow, or a marsupial such as a kangaroo.
  • Mammal leathers are most often used.
  • one or more of the footwear parts being used for the manufacture of e.g. footwear uppers in connection with the present invention may comprise other materials, e.g. synthetic materials such as polyester, polyamide and/or polyurethanes.
  • Vacuum gripper 118 Operator 120 Leather part supply 130 Automated stitching apparatus 132 Gantry device 140 3 -dimensional (3D) processing 150 Direct injection production (DIP)
  • DIP Direct injection production

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Zoology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé et un système de fabrication d'article chaussant, ledit article chaussant comprenant au moins deux parties d'article chaussant, par exemple des parties de chaussure, lesdites parties d'article chaussant étant reliées entre elles au moins partiellement par couture pour former au moins une partie d'une partie tige dudit article chaussant. Le procédé comprend les étapes suivantes : - fournir une couche de base, - fournir lesdites au moins deux parties d'article chaussant et positionner lesdites au moins deux parties d'article chaussant sur ladite couche de base, - fixer lesdites au moins deux parties d'article chaussant sur ladite couche de base dans des positions relatives respectives correspondant à des positions reliées prédéfinies, - relier lesdites au moins deux parties d'article chaussant l'une à l'autre par couture automatisée, et - traiter davantage les au moins deux parties d'article chaussant sous forme reliée pour fournir ledit article chaussant.
PCT/DK2020/050386 2019-12-20 2020-12-18 Couture automatique de parties d'article chaussant WO2021121519A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

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EP20828651.8A EP4076086A1 (fr) 2019-12-20 2020-12-18 Couture automatique de parties d'article chaussant
US17/787,460 US20230030271A1 (en) 2019-12-20 2020-12-18 Automatic stitching of footwear parts
CN202080088463.1A CN114828689A (zh) 2019-12-20 2020-12-18 鞋类部件的自动缝合

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DKPA201970828 2019-12-20
DKPA201970828 2019-12-20

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