WO2021117842A1 - Powder cosmetic composition - Google Patents
Powder cosmetic composition Download PDFInfo
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- WO2021117842A1 WO2021117842A1 PCT/JP2020/046190 JP2020046190W WO2021117842A1 WO 2021117842 A1 WO2021117842 A1 WO 2021117842A1 JP 2020046190 W JP2020046190 W JP 2020046190W WO 2021117842 A1 WO2021117842 A1 WO 2021117842A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
- A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
- A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a powdery cosmetic composition, in particular a powdery cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as skin.
- a UV protecting effect is a key factor for cosmetic compositions, in particular powdery cosmetic compositions for keratinous substances, such as skin.
- powdery cosmetic compositions for keratinous substances such as skin.
- small-sized particles such as titanium dioxide having an average size of 20 nm to 60 nm, are widely employed as UV filters.
- An objective of the present invention is to provide a powdery cosmetic composition which can provide good cosmetic properties, such as a good texture, covering property, and UV protecting effect, as well as a good usability as powdery cosmetics without using small-sized particles.
- a powdery cosmetic composition comprising:
- the (a) titanium dioxide may have a D10 of 0.3 pm or more, preferably 0.4 pm or more.
- the (a) titanium dioxide may have a D90 of 1.2 pm or less, preferably 1.0 pm or less.
- the (a) titanium dioxide may have a D50 of 0.3 pm or more, preferably 0.4 pm or more, and more preferably 0.5 pm or more, and in particular 0.6 pm or more, and of 1.0 pm or less, preferably 0.9 pm or less, more preferably 0.8 pm or less, and in particular 0.7 pm or less.
- the amount of the (a) titanium dioxide may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, and even more preferably 15% by weight or more, and may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, more preferably 30% by weight or less, and even more preferably 25% by weight or less, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- the (b) silica may be spherical porous silica.
- the (b) silica may have an average primary particle size of 0.5 pm or more, preferably 1 pm or more, more preferably 2 pm or more, and even more preferably 3 pm or more, and of 30 pm or less, preferably 20 pm or less, more preferably 10 pm or less, and even more preferably 7 pm or less.
- the amount of the (b) silica may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, and may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- the (c) organic UV filter may be lipophilic and liquid.
- the (c) organic UV filter may be selected from salicylic compounds, such as homosalate, and b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds, such as octocrylene, and a mixture thereof.
- the amount of the (c) organic UV filter may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 7% by weight or more, and may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may be anhydrous or contain less than 3% by weight of water and preferably less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition may be provided in the form of a compact or pressed powder, blusher or a loose powder
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin substance such as skin, comprising a step of applying onto the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention.
- titanium dioxide having a specific particle size and silica can provide powdery cosmetic compositions with sufficient UV protecting property, good cosmetic properties and usability as powdery cosmetics, even though they do not include small-sized particles as UV filters, and thus completed the present invention.
- the powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:
- composition The composition according to the present invention is a powdery composition. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be solid.
- solid means herein that the composition is not capable of flowing or does not flow, even under its own weight, at an ambient temperature such as 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure.
- the composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for keratinous substances.
- the keratinous substances can include skin, for example, of the face, neck and body, in particular facial skin.
- the composition according to the present invention can be a skin cosmetic composition, such as powdery foundations and powdery make-up base compositions.
- the composition can be a powdery composition, which can be can be provided in the form of a compact or pressed powder, blusher or a loose powder.
- the powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one titanium dioxide having a D10 of 0.2 pm or more and a D90 of 1.5 pm or less, (b) at least one silica, and (c) at least one organic UV filter.
- the ingredients in the composition will be described in a detailed manner below.
- composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one titanium dioxide having a D10 of 0.2 pm or more and a D90 of 1.5 pm or less as powder ingredients.
- the (a) titanium dioxide has a specific primary particle size of D10 being 0.2 pm or more and a D90 being 1.5 pm or less.
- D10 herein means the primary particle size at which 10% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles are smaller than or equal to D10 and 90% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles are larger than D10.
- D90 herein means the primary particle size at which 90% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles are smaller than or equal to D90 and 10% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles are larger than D90.
- the D10 and D90 values can be determined by laser diffraction, for example, using a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 by Malvern Corp.
- the (a) titanium dioxide has the D10 of 0.3 pm or more, and more preferably 0.4 pm or more.
- the (a) titanium dioxide has the D90 of 1.2 pm or less, and more preferably 1.0 pm or less.
- the average primary particle size as D50 of the (a) titanium dioxide of the present invention is not particularly limited, but in general is 0.3 pm or more, preferably 0.4 pm or more, and more preferably 0.5pm or more, and in particular 0.6 pm or more, and is 1.0 pm or less, preferably 0.9 pm or less, more preferably 0.8 pm or less, and in particular 0.7 pm or less.
- the term “D50” herein means the particle size at which 50% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles are smaller than or equal to D50 and 50% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles are larger than D50.
- the D50 value can be determined by laser diffraction, for example, using a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 by Malvern Corp.
- the (a) titanium dioxide comprises that sold by TAYCA Corporation under the name MT-700Z.
- the amount of the (a) titanium dioxide may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, and even more preferably 15% by weight or more, and may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, more preferably 30% by weight or less, and even more preferably 25% by weight or less, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one silica as a powdery ingredient.
- two or more (b) silica may be used in combination.
- a single type of silica or a combination of different types of silica may be used.
- the silica can be selected from silicate, amorphous silica, precipitated silica, porous silica, pyrogenic silica, fumed silica, hollow silica, silica gel, silica aerogel, and combinations thereof.
- the silica suitable for the present invention may be spherical or non-spherical in shape.
- the silica is spherical.
- the silica used in the composition according to the present invention may be porous or non-porous. Preferably, the silica is porous.
- the silica used in the present invention can be spherical porous silica.
- the silica may have an average primary particle size of 0.5 pm or more, preferably 1 pm or more, more preferably 2 pm or more, and even more preferably 3 pm or more, and of 30 pm or less, preferably 20 pm or less, more preferably 10 pm or less, and even more preferably 7 pm or less.
- the term “average primary particle size” used herein can represent a volume-average size mean diameter which is given by the statistical particle size distribution to half of the population, referred to as D50.
- the average primary particle size can be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 by Malvern Corp.
- the oil absorption capacity of the silica is not particularly limited, but in general is at least 0.1 ml/g, preferably at least 0.3 ml/ g, and more preferably at least 0.5 ml/g, and is 3 ml/g or less, preferably 2 ml/g or less, more preferably 1 ml/g or less, and even more preferably 0.8 ml/g or less.
- the oil absorption capacity of the silica can be measured by conventional methods for a skilled person in the art, such as a method for determining an oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30- 022 and a method according to JIS-K6217-4.
- the silica may have a pore volume of 0.01 ml/g or more, preferably 0.1 ml/g or more, and more preferably 0.2 ml/g or more, and may have a pore volume of 5 ml/g or less, preferably 2 ml/g or less, and more preferably 0.7 ml/g or less.
- the pore volume of the silica can be measured by conventional methods for a skilled person in the art, such as BJH method.
- the silica may have a pore diameter of 1 nm or more, preferably 3 nm or more, and more preferably 6 nm or more, and of 30 nm or less, preferably 20 nm or less, and more preferably 15 nm or less.
- the pore diameter of the silica can be measured by conventional methods for a skilled person in the art, such as BJH method.
- the silica used in the composition according to the present invention may be surface-treated or may not be surface-treated with a surface treating agent.
- the silica is not surface-treated with a surface treating agent.
- the treatment agents may be hydrophobic or hydrophilic treatment agents, and preferably hydrophobic treatment agent selected from silicone such as methicones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyri state, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof
- Silica that may be mentioned include porous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the name Spheron P-1500 by the company PRESPERSE.
- the (b) silica can be present in the composition according to the present invention in a content of 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- the (b) silica can be present in the composition according to the present invention in a content of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one organic UV filter.
- Two or more organic UV filters may be used in combination.
- a single type of organic UV filter or a combination of different types of organic UV filters may be used.
- UV here means ultraviolet radiation having a wavelength ranging from 290-400 nm.
- UV rays comprise the UV-B region (290-320 nm in wavelength) and the UV-A region (320-380 nm in wavelength).
- the organic UV filters herein can be liquid or solid.
- solid means that a substance is solid at 25°C under 1 atm.
- liquid means that a substance is liquid at 25°C under 1 atm.
- the organic UV filters are liquid at 25°C under 1 atm.
- the organic UV filter may be hydrophilic or lipophilic.
- the organic UV filter(s) of the present invention comprise(s) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter.
- hydrophilic here means that a substance is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 Pa).
- lipophilic here means that a substance is soluble in oils at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oils at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 Pa).
- the organic lipophilic UV filters used in the present invention may include, but are not limited to, triazine compounds, para-aminobenzoic acid compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds, phenylbenzimidazole compounds, imidazoline compounds, merocyanine compounds, salicylic compounds, cinnamate compounds, b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds, benzalmalonate compounds, merocyanine compounds, aminobenzophenone compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, anthranilic acid compounds, and 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, and benzoxazole compounds.
- triazine compounds mention may be made of ethylhexyl triazone, marketed under the name “UVINUL T-150” by BASF, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the name “UVASORB HEB” by SIGMA 2V, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4 , -aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4 , -aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4’ -aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, and bis-ethylhexyl
- para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives mention may be made of para-aminobenzoates (PABA), for example, ethyl PABA (para-aminobenzoate), ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed under the name “ESCALOL 5972 from ISP, Glyceryl PABA and PEG-25 PABA, and salts thereof such as sold under the name “Uvinul P25” by BASF.
- PABA para-aminobenzoates
- benzylidenecamphor compounds mention may be made of 3-benzylidene camphor, marketed under the name “MEXORYL SD” from CHIMEX, methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the name “EUSOLEX 6300” by MERCK, and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, marketed under the name “MEXORYL SW” by CHIMEX.
- imidazoline compounds mention may be made of ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
- salicylic compounds mention may be made of homosalate, marketed under the name “Eusolex HMS” by Rona/EM Industries, and ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the name “NEO HELIOPAN OS” by Symrise.
- ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate marketed under the name “PARSOL CX” by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS
- isopropyl ethoxy cinnamate isoamyl methoxy cinnamate, marketed under the name “NEO HELIOPAN E 1000” by Symrise, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, cinoxate, and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate, and DEA methoxycinnamate and salts thereof.
- octocrylene marketed under the name “UVINUL N539” by BASF
- etocrylene marketed under the name “UVINUL N35” by BASF.
- benzalmalonate compounds mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes containing a benzalmalonate moiety, for example, Polysilicone-15, marketed under the name “Parsol SLX” by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, and di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.
- n-hexyl 2-(4-diethlamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate the alternative name of which is diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB), sold under the trade name “Uvinul A+” from BASF.
- DHHB diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate
- dibenzoylmethane compounds mention may be made of 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, sold under the name of “Eusolex 8020” from Merck, l-(4-methoxy-l-benzofuran-5-yl)-3-phenylpropane-l,3-dione, sold under the name of “Pongamol” from Quest, l-(4-(tert-butyl)phenyl)-3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)propane-l,3-dione, and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, sold under the trade name “Parsol 1789” from Hoffmann-La Roche.
- 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds mention may be made of 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene and diphenyl butadiene malonates and malononitriles.
- the organic hydrophilic UV filters used in the present invention may include, but are not limited to, phenylbenzimidazole compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds, and bisbenzoxazolyl compounds.
- phenylbenzimidazole compounds mention may be made of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, marketed under the name “Eusolex 232” by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the name “Neo Heliopan AP” by Haarmann and Reimer.
- benzylidenecamphor compounds mention may be made of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and salts thereof, such as that manufactured under the name “Mexoryl SX” by Chimex,
- the salts of the UY filter compounds are chosen in particular from salts of alkali metals, for example sodium or potassium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper; salts of ammonium of formula NH 4+ ; quaternary ammonium salts; salts of organic amines, for instance salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine or arginine salts.
- alkali metals for example sodium or potassium
- salts of alkaline-earth metals for example calcium, magnesium or strontium
- metal salts for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper
- salts of ammonium of formula NH 4+ quaternary ammonium salts
- the (c) organic UV filter is selected from salicylic compounds, such as homosalate, and b , b -diphen y lacry 1 ate compounds, such as octocrylene, and a mixture thereof.
- the amount of the (c) organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 7% by weight or more, and may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least filler other than the (a) titanium dioxide and (b) silica. Two or more fillers can be combined.
- the filler can be inorganic or organic.
- the filler also can be silicone powder.
- inorganic filler mention may be made of talc, mica, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, synthetic fluorphlogopite, sericite, calcinated talc, calcinated mica, calcinated sericite, synthetic mica, perlite, lauroyl lysine, metal soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof, optionally hydrophilic- or hydrophobic-treated.
- the inorganic filler may have been surface-treated with least one silicone oil and/or at least one non-silicone oil.
- the silicone oil may be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane, methicine, polyalkylaryldiloxanes such as polymethylphenylsiloxane, polydiarylsiloxanes such as polydiphenylsiloxanes, polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes such as methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and modified-polysiloxanes.
- non-silicone oil a vegetable oil, preferably a vegetable oil solid at ambient temperature, may be used.
- the non-silicone oil is a hydrogenated vegetable oil.
- the hydrogenated vegetable oil is a hydrogenated palm oil.
- the inorganic filler can be colorants or pigments.
- pigments should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in a physiological medium, and which are intended to color the composition.
- the pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and/or organic.
- mineral pigments that may be mentioned are zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron (black, yellow or red) oxide or chromium oxide, mica, talc, fluorphlogopite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, sericite, kaolin, aluminum hydroxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, for instance aluminum powder and copper powder.
- the pigments can be composite pigments.
- the composite pigments may comprise at least one metal oxide and at least one aluminium oxide (or almina).
- the composite pigment may also additionally comprise silica particles.
- the composite pigment may also additionally comprise dioxide titanium.
- Covalumine Sonoma Red AS® (INCI name: Alumina (and) Cl 77491 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane); Covalumine Sonoma Yellow AS® (INCI name: Alumina (and) Cl 77492 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane); Covalumine Sonoma Black AS® (INCI name: Alumina (and) Cl 77499 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane) (and) silica); and Covalumine Atlas White AS® (INCI name: Alumina (and) Titanium Oxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane), and that of INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) Alumina (and) Silica.
- the pigments may be surface treated, for example.
- Surface treatment compounds may include a hydrophobic agent, such as silanes, preferably a Ci-C20-alkylsilane, more preferentially atri(Ci-C4)alkoxy(Ci-Ci2)alkylsilane such as triethoxycaprylylsilane and fluoro- or perfluoro-derivatives thereof, such as perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane, silicones, such as organosilicone, di-organosilicone, dimethicones, hydrogen dimethicone, methicones, polyurethanes, silicone -polyurethanes, and fluoro- or perfluoro-derivatives thereof, fatty acid soaps, C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate/dimethicone copolymers, mixed C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate/silicone copolymers, le
- hydrophobic agents may include isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT), ITT and dimethicone (ITT/dimethicone) cross-polymers, ITT and amino acid, ITT/triethoxycaprylylsilane crosspolymer, fatty acids (e.g., stearates), HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer, PEG-8 methyl ether triethoxysilane, aloe, jojoba ester, and Magnesium Myristate (MM).
- ITT isopropyl titanium triisostearate
- ITT/dimethicone dimethicone
- amino acid e.g., amino acid
- ITT/triethoxycaprylylsilane crosspolymer e.g., stearates
- fatty acids e.g., stearates
- HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer e.
- the inorganic filler herein may be different from so-called inorganic UV filters.
- the organic filler mention may be made of acrylic polymer powders, silicone powders, wax powders, polyamide powders, urethane polymer powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, polyacrylonitrile powders, poly-f3-alanine powders, polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, (meth)acrylic or (meth)acrylate powders, lauroyllysine, starch, cellulose powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders and mixtures thereof.
- silicone powder mention can be made of organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, which is a crosslinked polymer.
- the silicone powder is silicone-resin-coated.
- organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin in particular with silsesquioxane resin, for example, in patent US 5 538 793, the content of which is incorporated herein by way of reference.
- Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP- 102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the company Shin-Etsu, and have the INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer.
- the silicone-resin-coated organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is a compound having the INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer.
- Silicone elastomer powders that may be mentioned include the powders sold under the names Trefil® Powder E-505C and Trefil® Powder E-506C by the company Dow Coming.
- silicone powders may be powders of hybrid silicone functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, sold, for example, under the name "KSP-200" by the company Shin-Etsu and powders of hybrid silicones functionalized with phenyl groups, sold, for example, under the name "KSP-300" by the company Shin-Etsu (INCI name: Diphenyl Dimethicone/Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone/ S ilsesquioxane Crosspolymer) .
- the amount of the filler(s) in the composition may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 45% by weight or more, and more preferably 55% by weight or more, and 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less, and more preferably 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Additive(s) may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 45% by weight or more, and more preferably 55% by weight or more, and 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less, and more preferably 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the present invention may comprise additives as long as they do not impair the effects of the present invention and they are acceptable in cosmetic use.
- the additives may be selected from oils, such as those with plant or animal origins, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols; anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers; natural or synthetic thickeners; lubricants or dispersants; gelling agents; natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables; waxes; cosmetically acceptable hydrophobic organic solvents; peptides and derivatives thereof; protein hydrolyzates; preservatives; co-preservatives such as decylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, and caprylyl glycol; bactericides; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; stabilizers, and mixtures thereof.
- the amount of the additives is not limited, but may be from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
- the composition according to the present invention is preferably anhydrous or contains less than 3% by weight of water and preferably less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- anhydrous especially means that water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition, and more preferably is not present in the composition, but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition.
- the composition according to the present invention can be manufactured by mixing the (a) first spherical silicone powder and the (b) second spherical silicone powder, and, if necessary, one or more other ingredients, with a mixer, such as a henschel mixer, to obtain a powdery mixture.
- a mixer such as a henschel mixer
- The, obtained mixture can be then pulverized by a pulverizer, such as a pin mill and hammer mill, and then be sieved with a sieve.
- a pulverizer such as a pin mill and hammer mill
- the mixture can be further pressed in a pan by a pressing machine.
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin substrate, such as skin, comprising applying to the keratin substrate the composition according to the present invention
- composition according to the present invention may be intended for application onto a keratin substance such as skin, for example, of the face, neck and body, to make an attractive appearance, to conceal imperfections, such as blemishes, wrinkles, pores, and to protect the keratin substance from UV rays.
- the composition is generally applied on a keratin substance, such as skin, with an applicator, for example, a sponge applicator, puff, or brush.
- the cosmetic process is preferably intended for making up and/or caring for skin, preferably facial skin.
- the composition can be picked up with an applicator, such as a sponge, puff, or brush, by rubbing off the powder.
- the composition is then moved from the applicator to the skin by contacting the applicator on the skin.
- composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended to be used as a leave-in type cosmetic composition.
- leave-in means a composition that is not intended to be washed out or removed immediately after application.
- Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were prepared by mixing ingredients as listed in the following Table 2. The compositions are also shown in Table 2. In Table 2, all components are based on “% by weight” as active raw materials.
- titanium dioxide was obtained from the company TAYCA Corporation (product name: MT-700Z), which has a D10 of 0.42 pm, a D50 of 0.61 pm, and D90 of 0.99 pm
- silica was obtained from the company PRESPERSE (product name: Spheron P-1500), which is a spherical porous silica having a D50 of 5 pm, an oil absorption capacity of 0.6 mL/g, a pore volume of 0.3 mL/g, and a pore diameter of 10 nm.
- PRESPERSE product name: Spheron P-1500
- a square area (5 x 8 cm) of the skin was pre-treated with 40 mg dimethicone. Then, 90 mg of each sample was then applied onto the area and spread evenly by finger cot with a fixed gesture. The appearance of the deposition of the sample according to each of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 on the skin was evaluated by observation and assessed on the following evaluation criteria.
- Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 subjected to sensory evaluation with regard to a gliding texture, a powder feel, and a pore hiding property.
- Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were applied onto the facial skin of six professionals by a trained esthetician with an applicator. The make-up finish of each of the samples was then ranked by 6 professionals based on the following criteria in Table 1.
- Table 1 Table 1
- compositions according to Example 1 which includes titanium dioxide having a specific range of particle size and silica provided superior hardness, appearance of the deposition, as well as good sensory properties of gliding texture, low powder feel, as well as improved pore covering property, compared to the composition according to Comparative Example 1 , which does not include the combination of titanium dioxide having a specific range of particle size and silica.
- the composition according to Example 1 exhibited a sufficient SPF value even though it does not include small-sized particles as UV filters.
- the usability of the composition according to Example 1 was acceptable since it shows good compactability and bulk evenness as powdery cosmetics.
- the composition according to the present invention has a great benefit since it can provide an excellent cosmetic properties, such as providing a good texture, a good covering property, an improved appearance, as well as a sufficient UY protecting effect, and thus the compositions according to the present invention are very useful as cosmetic powdery compositions.
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a powdery cosmetic composition comprising (a) at least one titanium dioxide having a D10 of 0.2 μm or more and a D90 of 1.5 μm or less, (b) at least one silica, and (c) at least one organic UV filter. The composition according to present invention can provide good cosmetic properties, such as a good texture, covering property, and UV protecting effect, as well as a good usability as powdery cosmetics.
Description
DESCRIPTION
TITLE OF INVENTION POWDER COSMETIC COMPOSITION TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a powdery cosmetic composition, in particular a powdery cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as skin.
BACKGROUND ART
A UV protecting effect is a key factor for cosmetic compositions, in particular powdery cosmetic compositions for keratinous substances, such as skin. In order to achieve a good UV protecting property, small-sized particles, such as titanium dioxide having an average size of 20 nm to 60 nm, are widely employed as UV filters.
However, the use of such small-sized particles in powdery cosmetic compositions may cause a powdery texture when they are applied on keratinous substances. In addition, there is a concern that such small-sized particles may affect consumer’s health since they may penetrate inside the body through keratinous substances, such as skin.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
An objective of the present invention is to provide a powdery cosmetic composition which can provide good cosmetic properties, such as a good texture, covering property, and UV protecting effect, as well as a good usability as powdery cosmetics without using small-sized particles.
The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a powdery cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) at least one titanium dioxide having a D10 of 0.2 pm or more and a D90 of 1.5 pm or less,
(b) at least one silica, and
(c) at least one organic UV filter.
The (a) titanium dioxide may have a D10 of 0.3 pm or more, preferably 0.4 pm or more.
The (a) titanium dioxide may have a D90 of 1.2 pm or less, preferably 1.0 pm or less.
The (a) titanium dioxide may have a D50 of 0.3 pm or more, preferably 0.4 pm or more, and more preferably 0.5 pm or more, and in particular 0.6 pm or more, and of 1.0 pm or less, preferably 0.9 pm or less, more preferably 0.8 pm or less, and in particular 0.7 pm or less.
The amount of the (a) titanium dioxide may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, and even more preferably 15% by weight or more, and may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, more preferably 30% by weight or less, and even more preferably 25% by weight or less, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The (b) silica may be spherical porous silica.
The (b) silica may have an average primary particle size of 0.5 pm or more, preferably 1 pm or more, more preferably 2 pm or more, and even more preferably 3 pm or more, and of 30 pm or less, preferably 20 pm or less, more preferably 10 pm or less, and even more preferably 7 pm or less.
The amount of the (b) silica may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, and may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The (c) organic UV filter may be lipophilic and liquid.
The (c) organic UV filter may be selected from salicylic compounds, such as homosalate, and b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds, such as octocrylene, and a mixture thereof.
The amount of the (c) organic UV filter may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 7% by weight or more, and may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the present invention may be anhydrous or contain less than 3% by weight of water and preferably less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition may be provided in the form of a compact or pressed powder, blusher or a loose powder
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin substance such as skin, comprising a step of applying onto the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
After diligent research, the inventors have surprisingly found that the use of titanium dioxide having a specific particle size and silica can provide powdery cosmetic compositions with sufficient UV protecting property, good cosmetic properties and usability as powdery cosmetics, even though they do not include small-sized particles as UV filters, and thus completed the present invention.
Thus, the powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:
(a) at least one titanium dioxide having a DIO of 0.4 pm or more and a D90 of 1.2 pm or less;
(b) at least one silica, and
(c) at least one organic UV filter.
Hereafter, the composition according to the present invention will be described in a detailed manner.
[Composition]
The composition according to the present invention is a powdery composition. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be solid. The term the term “solid” means herein that the composition is not capable of flowing or does not flow, even under its own weight, at an ambient temperature such as 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure.
The composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for keratinous substances. The keratinous substances can include skin, for example, of the face, neck and body, in particular facial skin. In particular, the composition according to the present invention can be a skin cosmetic composition, such as powdery foundations and powdery make-up base compositions.
The composition can be a powdery composition, which can be can be provided in the form of a compact or pressed powder, blusher or a loose powder.
The powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one titanium dioxide having a D10 of 0.2 pm or more and a D90 of 1.5 pm or less, (b) at least one silica, and (c) at least one organic UV filter. The ingredients in the composition will be described in a detailed manner below.
(Titanium Dioxide)
The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one titanium dioxide having a D10 of 0.2 pm or more and a D90 of 1.5 pm or less as powder ingredients.
The (a) titanium dioxide has a specific primary particle size of D10 being 0.2 pm or more and a D90 being 1.5 pm or less.
The term “D10” herein means the primary particle size at which 10% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles are smaller than or equal to D10 and 90% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles are larger than D10. Similarly, the term “D90” herein means the primary particle size at which 90% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles are smaller than or equal to D90 and 10% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles are larger than D90.
The D10 and D90 values can be determined by laser diffraction, for example, using a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 by Malvern Corp.
In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (a) titanium dioxide has the D10 of 0.3 pm or more, and more preferably 0.4 pm or more.
In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (a) titanium dioxide has the D90 of 1.2 pm or less, and more preferably 1.0 pm or less.
The average primary particle size as D50 of the (a) titanium dioxide of the present invention is not particularly limited, but in general is 0.3 pm or more, preferably 0.4 pm or more, and more preferably 0.5pm or more, and in particular 0.6 pm or more, and is 1.0 pm or less, preferably 0.9 pm or less, more preferably 0.8 pm or less, and in particular 0.7 pm or less.
The term “D50” herein means the particle size at which 50% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles are smaller than or equal to D50 and 50% by volume of the particles based on the total volume of the particles are larger than D50. The D50 value can be determined by laser diffraction, for example, using a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 by Malvern Corp.
In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (a) titanium dioxide comprises that sold by TAYCA Corporation under the name MT-700Z.
The amount of the (a) titanium dioxide may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, and even more preferably 15% by weight or more, and may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, more preferably 30% by weight or less, and even more preferably 25% by weight or less, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
(Silica)
The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one silica as a powdery ingredient. Two or more (b) silica may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of silica or a combination of different types of silica may be used.
The silica can be selected from silicate, amorphous silica, precipitated silica, porous silica, pyrogenic silica, fumed silica, hollow silica, silica gel, silica aerogel, and combinations thereof.
The silica suitable for the present invention may be spherical or non-spherical in shape. Preferably the silica is spherical.
The silica used in the composition according to the present invention may be porous or non-porous. Preferably, the silica is porous.
Therefore, the silica used in the present invention can be spherical porous silica.
The silica may have an average primary particle size of 0.5 pm or more, preferably 1 pm or more, more preferably 2 pm or more, and even more preferably 3 pm or more, and of 30 pm or less, preferably 20 pm or less, more preferably 10 pm or less, and even more preferably 7 pm or less. The term “average primary particle size” used herein can represent a volume-average size mean diameter which is given by the statistical particle size distribution to half of the population, referred to as D50. For example, the average primary particle size can be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 by Malvern Corp.
The oil absorption capacity of the silica is not particularly limited, but in general is at least 0.1 ml/g, preferably at least 0.3 ml/ g, and more preferably at least 0.5 ml/g, and is 3 ml/g or less, preferably 2 ml/g or less, more preferably 1 ml/g or less, and even more preferably 0.8 ml/g or less. The oil absorption capacity of the silica can be measured by conventional methods for
a skilled person in the art, such as a method for determining an oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30- 022 and a method according to JIS-K6217-4.
In one specific embodiment of the present invention, the silica may have a pore volume of 0.01 ml/g or more, preferably 0.1 ml/g or more, and more preferably 0.2 ml/g or more, and may have a pore volume of 5 ml/g or less, preferably 2 ml/g or less, and more preferably 0.7 ml/g or less. The pore volume of the silica can be measured by conventional methods for a skilled person in the art, such as BJH method.
In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the silica may have a pore diameter of 1 nm or more, preferably 3 nm or more, and more preferably 6 nm or more, and of 30 nm or less, preferably 20 nm or less, and more preferably 15 nm or less. The pore diameter of the silica can be measured by conventional methods for a skilled person in the art, such as BJH method.
The silica used in the composition according to the present invention may be surface-treated or may not be surface-treated with a surface treating agent. Preferably, the silica is not surface-treated with a surface treating agent. The treatment agents may be hydrophobic or hydrophilic treatment agents, and preferably hydrophobic treatment agent selected from silicone such as methicones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyri state, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
Silica that may be mentioned include porous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the name Spheron P-1500 by the company PRESPERSE.
The (b) silica can be present in the composition according to the present invention in a content of 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, with respect to the total weight of the composition. The (b) silica can be present in the composition according to the present invention in a content of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
(Organic UV Filter)
The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one organic UV filter. Two or more organic UV filters may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of organic UV filter or a combination of different types of organic UV filters may be used.
The term “UV” here means ultraviolet radiation having a wavelength ranging from 290-400 nm. In general “UV” rays comprise the UV-B region (290-320 nm in wavelength) and the UV-A region (320-380 nm in wavelength).
The organic UV filters herein can be liquid or solid. The term “solid” means that a substance is solid at 25°C under 1 atm. The term “liquid” means that a substance is liquid at 25°C under 1 atm. Preferably, the organic UV filters are liquid at 25°C under 1 atm.
The organic UV filter may be hydrophilic or lipophilic. In on preferred embodiment, the organic UV filter(s) of the present invention comprise(s) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter.
The term “hydrophilic” here means that a substance is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).
The term “lipophilic” here means that a substance is soluble in oils at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oils at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).
The organic lipophilic UV filters used in the present invention may include, but are not limited to, triazine compounds, para-aminobenzoic acid compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds, phenylbenzimidazole compounds, imidazoline compounds, merocyanine compounds, salicylic compounds, cinnamate compounds, b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds, benzalmalonate compounds, merocyanine compounds, aminobenzophenone compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, anthranilic acid compounds, and 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, and benzoxazole compounds.
As the triazine compounds, mention may be made of ethylhexyl triazone, marketed under the name “UVINUL T-150” by BASF, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the name “UVASORB HEB” by SIGMA 2V, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4,-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4,-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4’ -aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine marketed under the trademark «TINOSORB S » by Ciba Geigy.
As the para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, mention may be made of para-aminobenzoates (PABA), for example, ethyl PABA (para-aminobenzoate), ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed under the name “ESCALOL 5972 from ISP, Glyceryl PABA and PEG-25 PABA, and salts thereof such as sold under the name “Uvinul P25” by BASF.
As the benzylidenecamphor compounds, mention may be made of 3-benzylidene camphor, marketed under the name “MEXORYL SD” from CHIMEX, methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the name “EUSOLEX 6300” by MERCK, and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, marketed under the name “MEXORYL SW” by CHIMEX.
As the imidazoline compounds, mention may be made of ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene
dioxoimidazoline propionate.
As the salicylic compounds, mention may be made of homosalate, marketed under the name “Eusolex HMS” by Rona/EM Industries, and ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the name “NEO HELIOPAN OS” by Symrise.
As the cinnamate compounds, mention may be made of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the name “PARSOL CX” by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, isopropyl ethoxy cinnamate, isoamyl methoxy cinnamate, marketed under the name “NEO HELIOPAN E 1000” by Symrise, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, cinoxate, and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate, and DEA methoxycinnamate and salts thereof.
As the b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds, mention may be made of octocrylene, marketed under the name “UVINUL N539” by BASF, and etocrylene, marketed under the name “UVINUL N35” by BASF.
As the benzalmalonate compounds, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes containing a benzalmalonate moiety, for example, Polysilicone-15, marketed under the name “Parsol SLX” by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, and di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.
As the aminobenzophenone compounds, mention may be made of n-hexyl 2-(4-diethlamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, the alternative name of which is diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB), sold under the trade name “Uvinul A+” from BASF.
As the dibenzoylmethane compounds, mention may be made of 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, sold under the name of “Eusolex 8020” from Merck, l-(4-methoxy-l-benzofuran-5-yl)-3-phenylpropane-l,3-dione, sold under the name of “Pongamol” from Quest, l-(4-(tert-butyl)phenyl)-3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)propane-l,3-dione, and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, sold under the trade name “Parsol 1789” from Hoffmann-La Roche.
As the anthranilic acid compounds, mention may be made of menthyl anthranilate marketed under the name "NEO HELIPAN MA" by Symrise.
As the 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, mention may be made of 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene and diphenyl butadiene malonates and malononitriles.
The organic hydrophilic UV filters used in the present invention may include, but are not limited to, phenylbenzimidazole compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds, and bisbenzoxazolyl compounds.
As the phenylbenzimidazole compounds, mention may be made of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, marketed under the name “Eusolex 232” by Merck, and disodium phenyl
dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the name “Neo Heliopan AP” by Haarmann and Reimer.
As the benzylidenecamphor compounds, mention may be made of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and salts thereof, such as that manufactured under the name “Mexoryl SX” by Chimex,
As the bisbenzoxazolyl compounds, mention may be made of those described in patents, EP 669323 and US 2,463,264, more particularly of disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate and salts thereof, sold under the trade name “Neo Heliopan AP” by Haarmann and Reimer.
The salts of the UY filter compounds that may be used are chosen in particular from salts of alkali metals, for example sodium or potassium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper; salts of ammonium of formula NH4+; quaternary ammonium salts; salts of organic amines, for instance salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine or arginine salts.
In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (c) organic UV filter is selected from salicylic compounds, such as homosalate, and b , b -diphen y lacry 1 ate compounds, such as octocrylene, and a mixture thereof.
The amount of the (c) organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 7% by weight or more, and may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Other Ingredients)
• Filler
The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least filler other than the (a) titanium dioxide and (b) silica. Two or more fillers can be combined. The filler can be inorganic or organic. The filler also can be silicone powder.
As the inorganic filler, mention may be made of talc, mica, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, synthetic fluorphlogopite, sericite, calcinated talc, calcinated mica, calcinated sericite, synthetic mica, perlite, lauroyl lysine, metal soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof, optionally hydrophilic- or hydrophobic-treated.
According to the present invention, the inorganic filler may have been surface-treated with least one silicone oil and/or at least one non-silicone oil.
The silicone oil may be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane, methicine, polyalkylaryldiloxanes such as polymethylphenylsiloxane, polydiarylsiloxanes such as polydiphenylsiloxanes, polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes such as methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and modified-polysiloxanes.
As the non-silicone oil, a vegetable oil, preferably a vegetable oil solid at ambient temperature, may be used. In a preferred embodiment, the non-silicone oil is a hydrogenated vegetable oil. In a preferred embodiment, the hydrogenated vegetable oil is a hydrogenated palm oil.
In one embodiment of the present invention, the inorganic filler can be colorants or pigments. The term “pigments” should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in a physiological medium, and which are intended to color the composition. The pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and/or organic.
Among the mineral pigments that may be mentioned are zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron (black, yellow or red) oxide or chromium oxide, mica, talc, fluorphlogopite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, sericite, kaolin, aluminum hydroxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, for instance aluminum powder and copper powder.
The pigments can be composite pigments. The composite pigments may comprise at least one metal oxide and at least one aluminium oxide (or almina). According to one particular form of the invention, the composite pigment may also additionally comprise silica particles. According to one particular form of the invention, the composite pigment may also additionally comprise dioxide titanium. Among the composite pigments that may be mentioned are Covalumine Sonoma Red AS® (INCI name: Alumina (and) Cl 77491 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane); Covalumine Sonoma Yellow AS® (INCI name: Alumina (and) Cl 77492 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane); Covalumine Sonoma Black AS® (INCI name: Alumina (and) Cl 77499 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane) (and) silica); and Covalumine Atlas White AS® (INCI name: Alumina (and) Titanium Oxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane), and that of INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) Alumina (and) Silica.
The pigments may be surface treated, for example. Surface treatment compounds may include a hydrophobic agent, such as silanes, preferably a Ci-C20-alkylsilane, more preferentially atri(Ci-C4)alkoxy(Ci-Ci2)alkylsilane such as triethoxycaprylylsilane and fluoro- or perfluoro-derivatives thereof, such as perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane, silicones, such as organosilicone, di-organosilicone, dimethicones, hydrogen dimethicone, methicones, polyurethanes, silicone -polyurethanes, and fluoro- or perfluoro-derivatives thereof, fatty acid soaps, C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate/dimethicone copolymers, mixed C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate/silicone copolymers, lecithins or hydrogenated lecithin, waxes, such as camauba wax, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminium acyl glutamate. Other hydrophobic agents may include isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT), ITT and dimethicone (ITT/dimethicone) cross-polymers, ITT and amino acid, ITT/triethoxycaprylylsilane crosspolymer, fatty acids (e.g., stearates), HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer, PEG-8 methyl ether triethoxysilane, aloe, jojoba ester, and Magnesium Myristate (MM).
The inorganic filler herein may be different from so-called inorganic UV filters.
As the organic filler, mention may be made of acrylic polymer powders, silicone powders, wax powders, polyamide powders, urethane polymer powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, polyacrylonitrile powders, poly-f3-alanine powders, polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, (meth)acrylic or (meth)acrylate powders, lauroyllysine, starch, cellulose powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders and mixtures thereof.
As the silicone powder, mention can be made of organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, which is a crosslinked polymer. Preferably, the silicone powder is silicone-resin-coated. As the silicone powder, a particular mention can be made of organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, for example, in patent US 5 538 793, the content of which is incorporated herein by way of reference. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP- 102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the company Shin-Etsu, and have the INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer. Preferably, the silicone-resin-coated organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is a compound having the INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer. Silicone elastomer powders that may be mentioned include the powders sold under the names Trefil® Powder E-505C and Trefil® Powder E-506C by the company Dow Coming.
Other silicone powders may be powders of hybrid silicone functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, sold, for example, under the name "KSP-200" by the company Shin-Etsu and powders of hybrid silicones functionalized with phenyl groups, sold, for example, under the name "KSP-300" by the company Shin-Etsu (INCI name: Diphenyl Dimethicone/Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone/ S ilsesquioxane Crosspolymer) .
The amount of the filler(s) in the composition may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 45% by weight or more, and more preferably 55% by weight or more, and 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less, and more preferably 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additive(s)
The composition according to the present invention may comprise additives as long as they do not impair the effects of the present invention and they are acceptable in cosmetic use. The additives may be selected from oils, such as those with plant or animal origins, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols; anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers; natural or synthetic thickeners; lubricants or dispersants; gelling agents; natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables; waxes; cosmetically acceptable hydrophobic organic solvents; peptides and derivatives thereof; protein hydrolyzates; preservatives; co-preservatives such as decylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, and caprylyl glycol; bactericides; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; stabilizers, and mixtures thereof.
The amount of the additives is not limited, but may be from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
The composition according to the present invention is preferably anhydrous or contains less than 3% by weight of water and preferably less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. The term “anhydrous” especially means that water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition, and more preferably is not present in the
composition, but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition.
The composition according to the present invention can be manufactured by mixing the (a) first spherical silicone powder and the (b) second spherical silicone powder, and, if necessary, one or more other ingredients, with a mixer, such as a henschel mixer, to obtain a powdery mixture. The, obtained mixture can be then pulverized by a pulverizer, such as a pin mill and hammer mill, and then be sieved with a sieve. In the case that the composition according to the present invention is in a form of a compact powder, the mixture can be further pressed in a pan by a pressing machine.
[Cosmetic Process]
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin substrate, such as skin, comprising applying to the keratin substrate the composition according to the present invention
The composition according to the present invention may be intended for application onto a keratin substance such as skin, for example, of the face, neck and body, to make an attractive appearance, to conceal imperfections, such as blemishes, wrinkles, pores, and to protect the keratin substance from UV rays. The composition is generally applied on a keratin substance, such as skin, with an applicator, for example, a sponge applicator, puff, or brush.
The cosmetic process is preferably intended for making up and/or caring for skin, preferably facial skin. The composition can be picked up with an applicator, such as a sponge, puff, or brush, by rubbing off the powder. The composition is then moved from the applicator to the skin by contacting the applicator on the skin.
The composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended to be used as a leave-in type cosmetic composition. The term "leave-in" means a composition that is not intended to be washed out or removed immediately after application.
EXAMPLES
The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[Composition]
The powdery compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were prepared by mixing ingredients as listed in the following Table 2. The compositions are also shown in Table 2. In Table 2, all components are based on “% by weight” as active raw materials. Among the ingredients, titanium dioxide was obtained from the company TAYCA Corporation (product name: MT-700Z), which has a D10 of 0.42 pm, a D50 of 0.61 pm, and D90 of 0.99 pm, and silica was obtained from the company PRESPERSE (product name: Spheron P-1500), which is a spherical porous silica having a D50 of 5 pm, an oil absorption capacity of 0.6 mL/g, a pore volume of 0.3 mL/g, and a pore diameter of 10 nm.
[Evaluation]
(Hardness)
11.5g of the powdery cosmetic composition of each of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was compacted to form of a compacted powder in the cylinder form with a diameter of 80 mm, with the pressure of 13 kgf/cm2 (first press) and 30 kgf/cm2 (second press).
The hardness of each sample obtained as above was measured at 5 points of the each pressed sample with Asker Hardness Meter Al-type.
(Compactability)
The samples according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were subjected to a drop test (N = 3) in which each sample was dropped at a height of 20 cm onto a ceramic tile. The chipping of each sample was determined, and the loss of powder was calculated. “OK” in the results means that there is no loss of powder after the drop test.
(Bulk Evenness)
Evenness of bulks of the samples according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were evaluated by observing the appearance of the bulk. If there is no aggregation of the ingredients and the bulk is uniform, it is marked as “OK”. This property also relates an ease of manufacture, since when the obtained bulk is even, it is easy to form a compacted or pressed powder product.
(Appearance of Deposition)
A square area (5 x 8 cm) of the skin was pre-treated with 40 mg dimethicone. Then, 90 mg of each sample was then applied onto the area and spread evenly by finger cot with a fixed gesture. The appearance of the deposition of the sample according to each of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 on the skin was evaluated by observation and assessed on the following evaluation criteria.
Good: The appearance of the deposition was homogeneous and matte.
Bad: The deposition was not homogeneous and/or shiny or oily.
(Sensory Evaluation)
The samples according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 subjected to sensory evaluation with regard to a gliding texture, a powder feel, and a pore hiding property. Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were applied onto the facial skin of six professionals by a trained esthetician with an applicator. The make-up finish of each of the samples was then ranked by 6 professionals based on the following criteria in Table 1.
Table 1
(SPF in vivo) i
The in-vivo SPF was evaluated in accordance with the method described in Colipa P3 (P3 high SPF reference sunscreen standard P3 (ISO 2444:2010)) (N=10).
The results are summarized in Table 2 below.
Table 2
The compositions according to Example 1 , which includes titanium dioxide having a specific range of particle size and silica provided superior hardness, appearance of the deposition, as well as good sensory properties of gliding texture, low powder feel, as well as improved pore covering property, compared to the composition according to Comparative Example 1 , which does not include the combination of titanium dioxide having a specific range of particle size and silica. In addition, the composition according to Example 1 exhibited a sufficient SPF value even though it does not include small-sized particles as UV filters. Furthermore, the usability of the composition according to Example 1 was acceptable since it shows good compactability and bulk evenness as powdery cosmetics.
Therefore, it can be concluded that the composition according to the present invention has a great benefit since it can provide an excellent cosmetic properties, such as providing a good texture, a good covering property, an improved appearance, as well as a sufficient UY protecting effect, and thus the compositions according to the present invention are very useful as cosmetic powdery compositions.
Claims
1. A powdery cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) at least one titanium dioxide having a D10 of 0.2 pm or more and a D90 of 1.5 pm or less,
(b) at least one silica, and
(c) at least one organic UV filter.
2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) titanium dioxide has a D10 of 0.3 pm or more, preferably 0.4 pm or more.
3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) titanium dioxide has a D90 of 1.2 pm or less, preferably 1.0 pm or less.
4. The composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the (a) titanium dioxide has a D50 of 0.3 pm or more, preferably 0.4 pm or more, and more preferably 0.5 pm or more, and in particular 0.6 pm or more, and of 1.0 pm or less, preferably 0.9 pm or less, more preferably 0.8 pm or less, and in particular 0.7 pm or less.
5. The composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the amount of the (a) titanium dioxide is 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, and even more preferably 15% by weight or more, and is 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, more preferably 30% by weight or less, and even more preferably 25% by weight or less, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the (b) silica is spherical porous silica.
7. The composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the (b) silica has an average primary particle size of 0.5 pm or more, preferably 1 pm or more, more preferably 2 pm or more, and even more preferably 3 pm or more, and of 30 pm or less, preferably 20 pm or less, more preferably 10 pm or less, and even more preferably 7 pm or less.
8. The composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the (b) silica has an oil absorption capacity of 0.1 ml/g, preferably at least 0.3 ml/ g, and more preferably at least 0.5 ml/g, and of 3 ml/g or less, preferably 2 ml/g or less, more preferably 1 ml/g or less, and even more preferably 0.8 ml/g or less.
9. The composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the amount of the (b) silica is 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, and is 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
10. The composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the (c) organic UV filter is lipophilic and liquid.
11. The composition according to any one of preceding claims, where the (c) organic UV filter is selected from salicylic compounds, such as homosalate, and b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds, such as octocrylene, and a mixture thereof.
12. The composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the amount of the (c) organic UV filter is 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 7% by weight or more, and may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13 The composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the composition is anhydrous or contains less than 3% by weight of water and preferably less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. The composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the composition is provided in the form of a compact or pressed powder, blusher or a loose powder.
15. A cosmetic process for a keratin substance such as skin, comprising a step of applying onto the keratin substance the composition according to any one of Claims
1 to 14.
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CN202080086279.3A CN114760974A (en) | 2019-12-13 | 2020-12-04 | Powdery cosmetic composition |
KR1020227020954A KR20220103775A (en) | 2019-12-13 | 2020-12-04 | powder cosmetic composition |
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JP2019225524A JP2021104933A (en) | 2019-12-13 | 2019-12-13 | Powdery cosmetic composition |
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