WO2021089162A1

WO2021089162A1 - Microdermabrasion device for coloring the skin

Info

Publication number: WO2021089162A1
Application number: PCT/EP2019/080594
Authority: WO
Inventors: Dominique Bordeaux
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2019-11-07
Filing date: 2019-11-07
Publication date: 2021-05-14

Abstract

The invention relates to a system for delivering to the skin, scalp, or lips a skin-coloring cosmetic composition, in particular for correcting a skin color disorder or performing a permanent or long-lasting make-up, comprising a handheld microdermabrasion device (1) powered by a power source (13) comprising: a handheld device (1) including: - an abrasive end fitting (2) for removing skin dead cells (100) from a layer of skin (50) of a user, - a suction unit comprising a source of a vacuum (7) in communication with a skin dead cells collecting chamber (4) through a vacuum unit (51), characterized i n that the system further comprises a skin-coloring cosmetic composition, especially for correcting a skin color disorder or performing a permanent or long-lasting make-up.

Description

MICRODERMABRASION DEVICE FOR COLORING THE SKIN

Technical field

The present invention relates to a system comprising a microdermabrasion device and at least one human keratinous material-coloring cosmetic composition, especially for correcting a skin color disorder or performing a permanent or long-lasting make-up.

By "human keratinous material" is meant mainly the skin, in particular of the body or of the face, or else the scalp or nails.

Background art

The stratum corneum (SC) constitutes the main barrier to exogenous substances including small molecular weight materials. In general, exogenous substances permeating the skin must diffuse through the highly organized intercellular lipid bilayers of the stratum corneum. This intercellular microroute, which is lipophilic, is the primary pathway for exogenous substances to pass through the SC barrier by passive diffusion along a concentration gradient between a delivery vehicle and the SC. It is difficult for some exogenous substances to penetrate into the skin.

MDA is a facial resurfacing technique that mechanically ablates aged or damaged skin to promote skin turnover and its re-epithelization. MDA is being used for decades and it is still a common procedure for many dermatologists.

According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, MDA:

• Improves age spots and black heads,

• Improves hyperpigmentation (patches of darkened skin),

• Exfoliates your skin, resulting in a refreshed appearance,

• Lessens the appearance of stretch marks,

• Reduces fine lines and wrinkles,

• Reduces or eliminate enlarged pores,

• Treats acne and the scars left by acne,

Beyond immediate benefits on skin relief, MDA is generating:

• Biological responses related to re-epithelization,

• High delivery of active molecules and other substances (soluble or not in the media or used at pure stage) thanks to corneocytes removal to decrease the

Stratum Corneum layer. MDA devices have been described in the art.

For example, US 2018/ 235662 discloses an end fitting coming in contact with the skin and comprising a microdermabrasion zone for abrading a part of a skin of a subject, the microdermabrasion zone includes a releasable solid material.

MDA have an advantage of being a minimally invasive technique, as it removes only uppermost layers of the skin from Stratum Comeum and epidermis. MDA works on all skin types and colors producing fast results with minimal side effects; not inducing scars or color modifications.

Recently this technique has been proposed to consumers through home devices providing new opportunities for skin treatment or aesthetic procedure

The kit RIIVIVA FACE® marketed by RIIVIVA uses microdermabrasion to exfoliate the dead skin cells. These dead skin cells are then sucked away by a tiny vacuum leaving smoother, fresher new skin cells underneath. Cleanser is used before the microdermabrasion, and prepares the skin for optimum treatment. The kit comprises a:

• A device with a precise diamond tip easily and effectively which smooths and brightens appearance of skin,

• A facial cleanser which is antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, healing, and disease-fighting.

For the RIIVIVA device, microdermabrasion is a process of abrasion and suction. As the diamond tip surface passes over the skin, the device vacuums up the exfoliated particles and skin debris. The suction aspect of the treatment is as vital as the exfoliation aspect. The suction (with the abrasion) stimulates the dermis, causing a remodeling process in the skin to occur. As the skin repairs itself, it becomes thicker, smoother and looks healthier as a result. Riiviva microderm was designed with three levels of suction (low, medium, high) and 3 degrees of coarseness to accommodate varying levels of skin sensitivity.

The tube of cleanser is separated from the device and can be used before, after or simultaneously with the device.

The kit RIIVIVA BODY® marketed by RIIVIVA works on the same principle as RIIVIVA FACE® with a moisturizing cream with vitamin C and active peptides.

WO2008157348 discloses a personal skin polishing or microdermabrasion device having a convenient form factor with an applicator attached to a contoured housing with a handle portion. The housing contains a battery, a cordless motor and a gear box to provide an appropriate rotational velocity to the output shaft that is coupled to the applicator. The skin treatment device may be used with or without a personal care composition such as a cream, lotion, ointment, balm, serum, wax or like compounds. The personal care composition may further comprise a colorant. Suitable colorants may include inorganic or organic pigments and powders. Organic pigments can include natural colorants and synthetic monomeric and polymeric colorants. Organic pigments include various aromatic types such as azo, indigoid, triphenylmethane, anthraquinone, and xanthine dyes which are designated as D&C and FD&C blues, browns, greens, oranges, reds, yellows, etc. Organic pigments may consist of insoluble metallic salts of certified color additives, referred to as the Lakes. Inorganic pigments include iron oxides, ferric ammonium ferrocyanide, manganese violet, ultramarines, chromium, chromium hydroxide colors, and mixtures thereof. The pigments may be coated with one or more ingredients that cause the pigments to be hydrophobic. Suitable coating materials that will render the pigments more lipophilic in nature include silicones, lecithin, amino acids, phospholipids, inorganic and organic oils, polyethylene, and other polymeric materials. Suitable silicone treated pigments as disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,143,722. Inorganic white or uncolored pigments include Ti02, ZnO, or Zr02, which are commercially available from a number of sources. Other suitable colorants are identified in U.S. Patent No. 7,166,279. Colorants are generally included at a weight percent such that the personal care composition yields a perceptible color. In one embodiment, the personal care composition exhibits a color that 10827/JC 13 perceptibly different from the color of the applicator. By perceptibly different, refers to a difference in color that is perceptible to a person having normal sensory abilities under standard lighting conditions (e.g., natural illumination as experienced outdoors during daylight hours, the illumination of a standard 100 W incandescent white light bulb at a distance of 2 meters, or as defined by CIE D65 standard illuminate lighting at 800 lux to a 1964 CIE standard observer).

US8236008 discloses a microdermabrasion device comprising a tip comprising an abrading surface. A vacuum opening is connected with a vacuum source. A collection reservoir and, optionally, aninline filter are connected in the vacuum line between wand and vacuum source. Fluid reservoir may contain solution or a suspension for purposes other than abrasion or pure abrasiveness. The compositions used in the present invention can include a wide and diverse range of components. The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 12th edition, 2008, which is incorporated by reference, describes an extensive variety of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention.

General examples, types or categories, or both, of compounds that may be employed include: beaching formulations (e.g., 2 percent to 4 percent hydroquinone, 2 percent Kojic Acid, 1 percent Vitamin K, and 1 percent Hydrocortisone in an aqueous base); acne treatment formulations (e.g., salycilic acid, alcohol base buffered by witch hazel, etc.); fine lines/wrinkle treatment formulations (e.g., hyaluronic acid is an aqueous base); hydrating formulations (e.g., calendula, vitamins A, D, E, or other vitamins, or combinations of these in a mineral oil base); antioxidant formulations; free radical scavengers (e.g., vitamins A, E, K, or other vitamins, or combinations of these in a mineral oil base); pH adjusters; sunscreen agents; tanning agents and accelerators; nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory actives (NSAIDS); antimicrobial and antifungal agents; moisturizers; lightening agents; humectants; numbing agents; and water, or combinations of these.

The solution or suspension may contain extracts such as those from plants, vegetables, trees, herbs, flowers, nuts, fruits, animals, or other organisms, or combinations of these. Such extracts may be used to help condition the skin, provide a relaxing aroma, or both.

The solution or suspension may also contain viscosity increasing or decreasing agents, colorants, or combinations of these. In a specific implementation of the invention, the viscosity of the fluids used is about 1 centipoise (e.g., about 0.5 to 1.5 centipoise). However, in other implementations, the viscosity may range from 1 centipoise to 100 centipoise. The viscosity may be, for example, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, or more than 100 centipoise. In other applications the viscosity may be less than 1 centipoise.

In a specific implementation, the fluids, abrasive particles, or both for fluid reservoir 71 may be packaged as a concentrated solution, powder, solids, or combinations of these to be mixed, diluted, or both by the microdermabrasion system 30. Other examples of product categories that may be employed alone or in combination with other compounds include, antiseptics, astringents, cleansers, pore decongestants, balms, botanicals, collagen stimulators, herbs, microemulsifiers, oxygen delivery vehicles, proteins, serums, skin firming agents, toners, topical anesthetics, emulsions, ointments, gels, tyrosinase inhibitors, and other related product categories.

Individually named products that may be used (with associated benefit indicated parenthetically) include: Aloe Vera (calming); alpha hydroxy acids (peel); alphalipoic acid (antioxidant); benzoil and other peroxides (acne); ceramide (hydrator); copper (toning); copper peptide (toning); CoQ-10 (coenzyme Q-10) and other enzymes (toning); cortisone (calming); glycolic acids (peel); hyaluronic acid (collagen stimulation); hydrolipids (hydrator); hydroquinones (bleaching); lactic acids (peel); magnesium ascorbic phosphate (free radical scavenger, collagen stimulator, bleaching); niacin (vascular dilation); phospholipids (moisturization); potassium (toning, psoriasis), and salycilic acids (acne); and related products. Of course, any combination of such elements may be provided-even in connection with abrasive particles.

Any of the products listed may be used with the microdermabrasion treatment tips of the invention. For example, the groves of a tip which may be used to conduct botanicals, Aloe Vera, or alpha hydroxy, to name a few examples, to a patient's skin. The channels through which fluid is delivered may be partially formed in a tip and partially formed in a tip holder. When the tip and tip holder are put together, the groves in each of these mate to form a complete channel opening.

As another example, coenzyme Q-10, glycolic acids, or vitamin E, to name a few example, may be conducted through an opening, surrounded by bristles, to the skin of a patient. The opening may extend to a position closer to patient's skin through a cylindrical column, nipple, or other structure to achieve a similar purpose.

There is a need for improving the delivery of cosmetic compositions comprising coloring agent into the skin, scalp, nails or lips, especially the precision of the amount of composition delivered into the skin at the targeted location during the use of the MDA device.

There is a need to combine abrasive mechanical benefits of MDA in association with coloring agents, such as pigments, beads to provide increased:

- skin tone homogeneity, - coloring effect, to treat skin disorders,

- effect lastingness for a "semi-permanent" pigmentation, to treat skin color disorders, such as achromia or scars.

There is a need to increase delivery and lastingness of coloring substances inserted into the stratum corneum intra layer, to generate a semi-permanent or permament coloring effect to treat skin color disorders.

There is a need to reduce:

- skin shininess

- skin granular texture appearance

There is a need to provide to the consumers, MDA devices easy to use, especially for domestic uses.

There is a need to provide to the consumers, MDA devices that can perform quick MDA.

There is a need to provide to the consumers, compact devices that can also be nomad ones, so that the consumer can move or travel with the device.

There is a need to provide to consumers a wide range of safe and tolerable compositions without preservative which would be delivered at deeper and at higher amount to increase their efficacy and time for results.

There is a need to provide to the consumer a MDA device with an increased efficiency, for increased result for the consumer.

Disclosure of the invention

An object of the present invention is a system for delivering to the skin, scalp, or lips a skin-coloring cosmetic composition, in particular for correcting a skin color disorder or performing a permanent or long-lasting make-up, comprising a handheld microdermabrasion device powered by a power source comprising: a handheld device including:

- an abrasive member for removing skin dead cells from a layer of skin of a user,

- a suction unit comprising a source of a vacuum in communication with a skin dead cells collecting chamber through a vacuum unit, the system further comprises a skin-coloring cosmetic composition, especially for correcting a skin color disorder or performing a permanent or long-lasting make-up. Thanks to the suction unit of the handheld device, the coloring better penetrates the stratum comeum intra layer to generate a coloring effect, to treat skin color disorders.

The system according to the invention allows targeting and delivering of the skin-coloring compositions into skin layers, by removing partially or totally CORNEOCYTES from stratum corneum and KERATIN OCYTES from upper epidermis, using the suction unit.

Thanks to the invention, the skin-coloring composition is delivered deeper inside skin, by-passing the SC layer, which is not possible with topical applications.

The system according to the invention allows a one-step MDA plus a coloring treatment.

The system according to the invention is convenient and simple to use.

The invention also relates to a method for preparing a delivery to the skin, scalp, or lips of a skin-coloring cosmetic composition, in particular for correcting a skin color disorder or performing a permanent or long-lasting make-up, the delivery being performed with the device as defined above, the method comprising:

- identifying a zone where the color of the skin, scalp, or lips is to be modified,

- determining a desired color correction, and

- determining a delivery to perform into said zone to obtain the desired change of color based on optical properties of the composition, and in particular determining the quantity to be injected through the system and their relative localization in the area.

Preferably, a color measurement of an area of skin, scalp, or lips comprising said zone is performed, the color measurement of the zone to be treated being especially compared to a beforehand performed color measurement of a healthy zone nearby to compute a difference value (DE), and the desired color correction.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the skin-coloring cosmetic composition is included in a reservoir of the handheld device. Thus the system is compact and easy to transport.

According to a second embodiment of the invention, the skin-coloring cosmetic composition is included in a container independent from the handheld device. The container can be a tube, a case, a jar, a recipient or a bottle.

According to a third embodiment of the invention, the skin-coloring cosmetic composition is included in a needleless injection device. “Needleless injection system” should be understood as being a system in which mechanical forces are used to propel a composition through the epidermis without the penetration of an injection needle through the epidermis.

“Skin” denotes the dermis and the epidermis and the surface region of the mucous membranes, such as the lips.

According to a fourth embodiment of the invention, the skin-coloring cosmetic composition is included in a needle injection device.

Thanks to the needles, the composition is delivered deeper inside skin, by passing the SC layer, which is not possible with topical applications.

The microneedles used according to the invention are known in the art.

Abrasive member

The abrasive member preferably includes and abrasive head.

The abrasive member might include an annular abrasive head, advantageously coated with an abrasive material. Abrasiveness can be made by sanding the abrasive member surface mechanically or chemically. Abrasiveness can be also made by mechanical engraving/etching treatment.

Abrasive member can be covered by removal abrasive material stuck to the end fitting’s body. As such, it can form self-adhesive member, such as a sticker. An example can be a holding pad with a 3M self-adhesive sticker with a 5 to 100 mm diameter, comprising abrasive grains electrostatically coated on the adhesive. This self-adhesive member can be replaced after each MDA treatment or reused.

The abrasive material may include metal(s), polymer(s), diamond, corindon, sand, silica, silicon, glass, sintered clay, particles dispersed/fixed at the surface of the head.

Abrasive properties can be brought by abrasive heads made of metal or abrasive heads made of a polymeric structure. Abrasive properties can be brought by particles such as diamond, silicium, clay, glass dispersed/fixed at the surface of the head.

The abrasive head can be porous/soluble to the composition or to a gas.

The cartridge might contain a gas under pressure that might pushed the composition out of the cartridge or that might clean the cartridge after use.

The abrasive material might be delivered from the reservoir and may contain soluble parts, particles, substances, grains.

Abrasive member can conduct current, ultrasounds, cold, heat, or other energies. Abrasive members can comprise different abrasive materials that can be set up at will

Additional materials like fibers, nonwoven, yarns, blades, microneedles array, might be included on an abrasive head.

The device might comprise one or more abrasive members, in particular in the form of balls. The multiplicity of abrasive members facilitates a good distribution of the composition, in a continuous manner. The multiplicity of abrasive members also makes it possible to improve the massaging effect in the course of the treatment.

An abrasive member may be organized as a polygon, in particular as a triangle , and better all the abrasive members are organized as a polygon, in particular as a triangle . Such a disposition facilitates the application and the treatment of zones which are difficult to access, for example the wings of the nose.

This configuration of the abrasive member(s) also facilitates good distribution of the composition over the whole of the application surface. Better homogeneity of the treatment is thus obtained. Safety and comfort related to good distribution of the electric current over the application surface is also improved, if appropriate. The disposition of the abrasive members and the relatively high number thereof allow simultaneous application over a fairly large area.

Abrasive member can enable the suction of excess of product back into the device.

The abrasive members may be made of plastic or metal.

An outer surface of an abrasive member may be totally inert from a chemical point of view in relation to the composition applied and the keratinous material· The outer surface may be covered with a varnish. The outer surface may be polished. The outer surface may comprise a biocide material· if appropriate.

Moreover, the outer surface of an abrasive member may be disposed in proximity to the composition reservoir, thereby making it possible to avoid the presence of specific ducts for transporting the composition from the reservoir to this outer surface.

The abrasive members may be spherical or cylindrical, roller-shaped for example, or have some other shape, in particular ovoid.

Advantageously, an abrasive member turns about at least one rotation axis. In an exemplary implementation of the invention, the outer surface of the abrasive member exhibits a symmetry substantially of revolution about an axis of symmetry, the outer surface being able to be rotary about this axis of symmetry. As a variant, the abrasive member may be rotary about a rotation axis distinct from this axis of symmetry. Still as another variant, the abrasive member may vibrate. Still as another variant, the abrasive member may move back and forth.

Abrasive member may be itself a container or may comprise an empty volume to enable a pre-mixing or introduction of different compositions / substances.

The outer surface of an abrasive member may exhibit any profile, in particular cylindrical or non-cylindrical, for example an ovoid or discoid shape.

In another exemplary implementation of the invention, the outer surface exhibits a substantially spherical shape. In particular, the abrasive member is a ball. The latter may be all-axes rotary.

An abrasive member may comprise a core on which an outer wall is attached This core may comprise a surface provided with reliefs and the outer wall may be able to deform during the application so as to come into contact with the reliefs. The latter make it possible to produce a massaging effect when the abrasive member is in contact with the surface to be treated, and this may inter alia help the penetration of the composition into the skin and facilitate its action.

The outer wall may, as a variant, be rigid.

In an exemplary implementation of the invention, the outer wall comprises reliefs, which may comprise bumps or ribs.

Alternatively, an abrasive member may comprise removable elements which afford the abrasive member a relief. It is thus possible to change these elements with a view to modifying the dimensions of the abrasive members, their surface properties, or else their roughness.

Advantageously, an abrasive member is mounted in a removable manner on the device. All the abrasive members may be mounted in a removable manner on the device.

Preferably, an abrasive member is mounted in a housing.

Preferably, the abrasive member comprises an abrasive head.

More preferably, the abrasive member comprises abrasive particles chosen among at least one of corundum, magnesium oxide, sand, silica and a precious stone, in particular diamond, garnet, sapphire, ruby, emerald, and topaz. Reservoir

The device according to the invention may comprise one or several reservoirs. Each reservoir might be connected to a supply orifice located on the abrasive member through a canal.

Each reservoir might contain a specific cosmetic composition, a gas, or a compressed composition such as a composition containing active molecules, coloring substances like dyes solutions, pigments suspensions, fibers, dispersed polymers, beads suspensions, particles suspensions, peeling compositions.

The device may provide heat and or vibration to decrease composition viscosity and to prevent device being clogged. The compositions might be delivered at the same time or after or before the microdermabrasion operation. Compositions can be delivered continuously or in a jerky way, consecutively, one after the other. The device can provide microdermabrasion (MDA) and/or composition delivery at same time, partially, or when needed from device diagnostic and our user need.

The mechanism for dispensing the formulation at the outlet of the reservoir may comprise a pump. Advantageously, the dispensing system comprises an air pump, so as to compress the air between the walls of the reservoir and its housing in the device. The walls of the reservoir are preferably flexible and the walls of the housing are preferably rigid.

More advantageously, the housing is airtight. The reservoir is compressed in a controlled manner by the air pump. This creates a certain pressure in the housing to regulate the flowrate of formula. A unidirectional valve at the end of the reservoir may make it possible to safeguard the formula from contact with the air.

The reservoir may include a piston or an helicoidal screw.

The reservoir may have a variable internal volume and comprise at least one wall that is elastically deformable so as to reduce the internal volume, in particular two elastically deformable walls opposite one another.

The reservoir may be designed to be mounted in a removable manner on the device such that, when the reservoir has been emptied, it can be replaced with another or removed in order to be filled, when the reservoir has a filling orifice.

Advantageously, the reservoir has an elastically deformable outer wall.

Preferably, the reservoir comprises an exit orifice emerging through a duct in the diffuser. Advantageously, the reservoir is formed as a single component. It is preferably molded from a single piece, in particular from the same thermoplastic material, for example PEBD, PEHD, a mixture of PEBD and PEHD, PP, or a mixture of PE and PP in any proportion. The reservoir can be made entirely or partially of glass or metal. The thickness of the wall of the reservoir is for example between 0.1 and 1 mm, and in the second zone between 0.3 and 0.8 mm.

Advantageously, the total internal volume of the reservoir is between 1 and 100 cm³, preferably between 20 and 50 cm³, in the rest configuration of the deformable zone. This volume is optimal for a few uses or a repeated treatment extending over a few weeks.

Preferably, the interior volume of the reservoir may shrink by a volume equal to between 10% and 50% of the interior volume of said reservoir in the rest configuration of the deformable zone. This variation in volume has the advantage of being visible and measurable.

The reservoir may be manufactured by injection blow molding or extrusion blow molding.

The reservoir may be removable. It may be an interchangeable container or a cartridge. The reservoir may in particular be a single-use reservoir. It may or may not be a single-dose reservoir.

The reservoir can be located at an end of the end piece or included inside the body of the device.

In one example, reservoir is apart of a replaceable formulation cartridge.

The reservoir may enable the premixing of several compositions (dry and or liquid) stored in different compartments of the reservoir with breakable walls.

The reservoir can be heat or cold before or after insertion in the device before or after premixing of the different compositions stored in the reservoir.

In another example, the cosmetic method includes removing a first formulation cartridge from the device according to the invention, coupling a second replaceable formulation cartridge to the abrasive member, and dispensing, from the second replaceable formulation cartridge, a second formulation onto the one or more regions of the biological surface.

In an embodiment, the device according to the invention includes a formulation assembly including one or a plurality of dispenser portions and one or more formulation reservoirs, the formulation assembly being operable to dispense a formulation from the one or more formulation reservoirs onto one or more regions of a biological surface.

The reservoir might comprise several chambers with several compositions.

The chamber can be separated by frangible walls able to break to let the compositions mix one with the other.

Several reservoirs might be place consecutively, enabling the compositions to mix together.

Propulsion system

Preferably, in the first embodiment of the invention, the handheld device comprises a propulsion system for propelling the skin-coloring cosmetic composition with sufficient pressure through an orifice to create a jet, optionally enabling subcutaneous or intracutaneous delivery of the fluid after leaving the reservoir.

Advantageously, the propulsion system comprises a container, a pressure generating mechanism and a primary source of potential energy for propelling a skin coloring cosmetic composition with sufficient pressure through an orifice to create a jet enabling transdermal delivery of the skin-coloring cosmetic composition, the primary source of potential energy primarily being in the form of a compressible substance that is put under pressure within the container by the pressure generating mechanism, whereby said potential energy is compression energy of said substance, wherein said compressible substance is a Hquid, solid or other nongaseous substance, as defined at ambient temperature and pressure. The compressible substance may, for example, be a soft matter or other visco-elastic substance, such as a substance belonging to the family of polysiloxanes, which is not expensive and has a large elastic compression range. Some polysiloxanes may be compressed up to 2000 bars with a 15% volume reduction. Polysiloxanes comprise a volumetric compressibility (dV/V) which is in the range of two to four times greater than the volumetric compressibility of water. The device may provide heat and or vibration to decrease composition viscosity and to prevent device being clogged.

In view of the very high pressure and small orifice diameter, it is possible to produce a very fine Hquid jet of supersonic speed. Moreover, the injection time may be spread over a few seconds in view of the smaH jet diameter (e.g. 30-60 pm) thereby reducing or eliminating pain by giving more time for the composition and/or active compounds to diffuse in the surrounding tissue. The provision of a compressed liquid or solid as a source of potential energy for propelling a Hquid to be injected is very advantageous. The use of springs, for example, requires large dimensions to obtain the required propulsion energy to ensure that a patient's skin is pierced, and even then the Hquid jet diameter is typicaHy in the range of 200 [mu] m in order to ensure sufficient power of the jet. Prior systems using compressed gas, as defined at ambient temperature and pressure, are Hmited by the maximum pressure of the gas until a change of state to the Hquid form, which defines the maximum pressure of the propulsion system. For example, carbon dioxide Hquefies at approximately 70 bars and nitrogen protoxide at 75 bars, these gases being the most frequently considered for use in conventional propulsion systems. The large volume change of a compressed gas is also a safety concern, since in the event of rupture of the gas container, loose particles of the device are driven by the large expansion of gas Hberated from the container.

Distributor

A duct forming a canal or empty shaft might distribute the composition of the reservoir to the abrasive member.

The canal or empty shaft may be removable or part of the reservoir.

Advantageously, a distributor distributes the composition of the reservoir to the abrasive member. The distributor might be formed of one or several pieces.

The distributor may comprise a first face on which are made housings for the abrasive members, in particular a housing for each of the abrasive members. The first face may be plane, concave or convex. It is for example sHghtly domed.

The supply orifices are configured to conduct the composition from the cavity or cavities to the housings of the abrasive members. The supply orifices may emerge in the housings elsewhere than in the bottom of the housings. This may make it possible to reduce the thickness of the distributor, so that the latter is less bulky.

The distributor comprises a second face opposite to the first, on which is made said at least one storage cavity for the composition. The cavity or cavities may be hoUowed out with respect to the second face, which may be plane, concave or convex. The cavities may take the form of channels made in the distributor.

The distributor may comprise peripheral cavities, in particular three peripheral cavities, each of the peripheral cavities being able to enable the composition to be conveyed to several abrasive members. At least one peripheral cavity may be configured to convey the composition to two abrasive members, for example two adjacent abrasive members. In particular, each of the peripheral cavities may be configured to convey the composition to two abrasive members, for example two adjacent abrasive members. Thus, the abrasive members may be linked pairwise by a corresponding cavity, which may be channel- shaped.

The distributor may comprise at least one central cavity, in particular a single central cavity. This central cavity may be intended to be supplied directly with composition from the reservoir, in particular via the diffuser which will be described further on.

As a variant, the device is devoid of any central cavity, the peripheral cavities being mutually independent, and not being able to communicate with one another in the distributor. In this case, the peripheral cavities may be supplied with composition directly from the reservoir, in particular via the diffuser which will be described hereinafter.

Diffuser

The device may comprise a diffuser directly in contact with the distributor, making it possible to feed the composition into the cavity or cavities of the distributor.

The distributor and the diffuser may each have a face in contact with the other of the distributor or of the diffuser. These faces may be plane. The surfaces of these faces may be tailored in such a way that there is in principle no composition that flows between the surfaces in contact.

The device may comprise a cover configured to retain the abrasive members in the housings of the distributor. The cover may comprise openings through which the abrasive members protrude to the outside to allow the application of the composition. In one embodiment, the cover is not electrically conducting.

Preferably, the device comprises a diffuser directly in contact with a distributor, making it possible to feed the supply orifice with the composition. It can comprise a tool able to be cleaned and / or sterilized totally or partially. It can be proposed with a cleaning station to wash it with its demountable accessories.

Control member

The device may comprise a control member for the dispensing of composition, in particular a push-button (for example an ON/OFF button) or a rotary thumbwheel, and/or a device for regulating the composition flowrate. The control member is configured to be actuated manually by the user. The control member may be configured to allow the dispensing of a dose of composition, or as a variant a continuous stream of the composition. In an exemplary embodiment, the dispensing of composition continues as long as the control member is engaged, for example as long as the push-button is depressed.

The user may trigger the dispensing of composition when the quantity of composition present is insufficient to ensure the efficacy of the treatment. Regulation of the quantity of composition may be performed manually by the user, the latter being able to modify the quantity of composition dispensed at will, or else when the warning facility signals to him that this is necessary, or automatically, by virtue of a system for slaving the quantity of composition dispensed to a measurement performed on the keratinous material.

A composition can be applied on the keratinous material, notably the skin, before the MDA treatment.

Complementary functions

The device may furthermore comprise one at least of: a light source, a heat source, an infrared source or a resistance, a micro current, this list not being limiting.

Energy sources can be provided by device itself or external devices and energies driven for example by cables, tubes, optical fibers.

The device may comprise one or more treatment modules which may be activated selectively; for example, it may be envisaged to subject the end fitting to light, to a heat source, or indeed to vibrations, as will be specified further on. i) Light source

According to the invention, the device advantageously comprises a light source.

The light source may be, for example, at least one LED, such as described in documents LR-A-2917 299, US- A-2010/274329 or WO-A-2008/057640. ii) Heat source

According to the invention, the device advantageously comprises a heat source.

In this case, it is possible to modify the temperature of the external surface of the end fitting and/or of the treated region and/or to transmit energy to the external surface of the end fitting and/or to the treated region.

The device may for example comprise a heating resistance or a thermoelectric element or an infrared source positioned under the end fitting.

Preferably, the source of heat comprises an infrared source or a resistor. The device may comprise a heating module, and be configured to heat the external surface of the end fitting to a predefined temperature for example to a temperature of between 35°C and 45°C. In the case of a device comprising a heating module, the heating surface may reach a temperature of 10°C to 35°C higher than the ambient temperature, preferentially from 15°C to 25°C in heating mode. The power delivered by the heating module may be between 0.25 and 10 W, preferably between 0.5 and 5 W.

More preferably, the source of heat is housed entirely inside the device.

The resistor may be connected to a board by two insulated connectors, using for example the location of the breaker switches.

The infrared source may be integrated into the body of the device, as the handle. The external part of the device, for example a shell, may serve to guide the infrared radiation to the end fitting. iii) Cold source

As an illustration, the cold source can utilize a solid carbon dioxide at temperature between -196° C. to -205° C. to form portion of the probe in contact with tissue instead of pumping liquid nitrogen to the tip of the probe or the cold source can comprise a molten metal. iv) steam source

As an illustration the end fitting can comprise an inner wall s formed through a plurality of steam supply holes for supplying steam to the face of the user or to another part of the body.

Color measurement

The system, notably the device may be arranged for performing a color measurement of an area of skin, scalp, or lips, identifying therein a zone where the color of the skin, scalp, or lips is to be modified, determining a desired color correction, and determining an injection to perform into said zone to obtain the desired change of color based on optical properties of the composition, and the quantity injected through each microneedle and their relative localization in the area.

The electronic system may be arranged for comparing the color measurement of the zone to be modified to a beforehand performed color measurement of a healthy zone nearby to compute a difference value DE. The desired color correction and the quantity to inject through each microneedle and their relative localization in the area may be determined as a function of said difference value DE.

This allows adapting the treatment to the type of skin to be treated and to the type of skin color disorder, and obtaining great precision in correcting skin color disorders, avoiding proceeding to several deliveries.

Color measurements may be performed in the “Lab” color space, which describes mathematically all perceivable colors in three dimensions: L for lightness and a and b for the color opponents green-red and blue-yellow.

Color measurements may be performed by using a colorimeter, for example a Chroma Meter from Konica Minolta.

An application, in particular running on a smartphone, may be used for delivery control and user interface.

The device may be part of a watch connected to a smartphone, or to a distant device connected with a wire or wireless, for example by radio frequency, WIFI, or Bluetooth^®.

Skin-coloring composition

The composition is advantageously a liquid cosmetic composition comprising solid particles, preferably at least one pigment, to be injected.

The composition is preferably a biocompatible cosmetic composition. By "'bio compatible”, it has to be understood a composition capable of fulfilling a specific function with an appropriate response from the skin.

The composition is preferably sterile, and of single use.

The composition may comprise an aqueous phase and at least one pigment, one especially chosen from organic or mineral pigments, in particular non-lamellar mineral pigments.

This pigment is a pigment approved for use in cosmetics by CTFA and the FDA used in cosmetic formulations.

In a particular embodiment, said pigment may be water-dispersible.

In another embodiment, the pigment may be oil-dispersible or with limited solubility in water.

In variants, the pigment may be oil-soluble and/or water-soluble. In some embodiments, this pigment is a non-lamellar mineral pigment, more preferably a metal oxide, such as iron oxides, titanium dioxide, aluminum oxide, zirconium oxides, zinc oxide, or composite oxides, particularly an iron oxide selected from red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide or black iron oxide, or a mixture thereof, or even Prussian blue, manganese violet, or ultramarine blue.

The compositions considered according to the invention may comprise in particular at least one compound selected from (and their mixtures):

The composition may also comprise at least one organic pigment, as for example a diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP), as the ones described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP- A-787731 and WO-A- 96/08537. The composition is for example one of the solutions of bio-pigments

BioChromaDerm or BioChromaEyes from Biotic Phocea.

The pigment may be melanin.

The largest dimension of the pigments may range between 0.1 micrometers and 300 micrometers, preferably between 0.2 micrometers and 100 micrometers. The dimension of the pigments may be adjusted to fit the internal channel of the microneedles.

The aqueous phase may account for at least 50 % by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase may comprise or consist in glycols, water, propane 1, 3, diol, or ethanol, and their mixtures. The composition may be diluted before injection to the skin. In such a case, the minimum of oil and/or water before dilution may be 0% . In variants, the composition is a lipo-soluble or hydro-soluble coloring agent. The concentration of such coloring agent in water or oil may be very low to generate skin color modification, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight.

In another variant, the composition is a Hquid composition comprising high refraction index particles, interference particles, reflection particles, light absorbent particles, in particular non-transparent particles or particles modifying the path of light, in order to prevent or enhance reflection, or to reduce or hide light. The composition may be a Hquid composition comprising coloring, blurring, or matifiant particles. The particles may be particles of nacre, siHca, starch, bentonite, or clay. Such a composition aHows coloring or dermal-pigmenting the skin thanks to the optical properties of the particles they contain. The composition may be able to protect skin from ultra-violet damages or to bring skin glow.

In yet another variant, the composition may comprise hydroxyapatite particles or insoluble calcium alginate particles or aluminum oxide or noble metals, such as gold.

The depth of injection may be chosen according to the desired effect and may also depend on the desired duration of the effect, the length being greater for example when a long-lasting effect is required.

The viscosity of the composition may range from 1. 1 O' Pa s ¹ to 10000 Pa s ¹, preferably from 1.10³ Pa s ¹ to 3000 Pa s ¹.

The viscosity is measured at 25 °C and under 1 atm, with a Rheomat 180 viscometer equipped with MK-R-1, 2 or 3 mobile according to the viscosity range and the corresponding measurement cup MB-R-1, 2 or 3 at a rotation speed of 200 min ¹, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation (time at which the stabilization of the viscosity and the speed of rotation of the mobile is observed).

Description of the figures

The invention wiH be better understood on reading the detailed description which wiH foHow, of no Hmiting examples of implementation of the invention, and on examining the appended drawing in which:

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a first handheld microdermabrasion device that can be used in the system according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of a second handheld microdermabrasion device that can be used in the system according to the present invention. FIG.3 is a photography of a biologic skin treated wih RIIVIVA FACE® marketed by RIIVIVA and colored with Airless Color ® LP41 - Laque de Venise marketed by Biotic Phocea, the duration of the application of the coloring composition being 5 minutes, the biologic skin was then submitted to a MDA treatment,

FIG.4 is a photography of a biologic skin colored with Airless Color ® LP41 - Laque de Venise marketed by Biotic Phocea in the same way as the biologic skin of FIG.3, without any MDA treatment,

FIG.5 is a photography of a biologic skin of FIG. 3, after removal of the excess of coloring composition,

FIG.6 is a photography of the biologic skin of FIG. 4, after removal of the excess of coloring composition,

FIG.7 is a photography of a biologic skin of FIG. 5, after rinsing,

FIG. 8 is a photography of the biologic skin of FIG. 6, after rinsing.

Represented in FIG.1 is a device 1 in accordance with the invention. It comprises a hand piece 10 with a housing 12 on which is mounted an end fitting 2 comprising an abrasive member 6 having an annular shape mounted on a cylindrical base 60. A reservoir 3 is housed inside the body 12, and in communication with a pump 5 which is part of the delivery system. The end fitting 2 can be fixed by snap-fastening onto the housing 12. It could be mounted in some other manner. In the example considered, the housing 12 is made of thermoplastic material. As a variant, the latter may be made from any other material. The abrasive member 6 is part of the end fitting 2.

The abrasive members 6 is ring shaped and made of a surface material such as diamond particles 18 having a coefficient of friction ranging from about 0.15 to about 0.3.

The abrasive member 6 is operably coupled to the reservoir 3 through a duct 8 to let the composition flow from the reservoir 3 to the surface 50 of the skin to be treated and reach the applicator member 6 through the supply orifice 39.

The reservoir is included in the hand piece 10 on which the end fitting 2 is mounted.

The device 1 also includes features, such as an activator such as a button 32 or grips, to aid in use by a user. For example, in one embodiment, the button 32 is power button on an end opposite the reservoir 3 and configured to toggle power to device. In another embodiment, the housing also includes grips that add to the convenience for a user to grip the applicator 20.

The abrasive member 6 may have one or more openings, such as an annular shape, with a tube coupled to the opening(s) to deliver the composition. The drive system 14 comprises an electric motor 70. However, it is to be understood that a variety of electromechanical devices (e.g., devices that translate electricity into mechanical action or movement) may be used for drive system 14. The power source 32 may be used to provide power to the drive system 14. In one embodiment, the power source is an internal power source (e.g., batteries), and in another embodiment the handheld device may be coupled to an external power source (e.g., a wall power outlet).

The overall suction system comprises a source of vacuum 7 connected to a vacuum unit 51, an ON/OFF switch 33, a gauge to measure the level of vacuum and a valve 52 to adjust the vacuum in the collecting chamber 4 having a second opening 44 at a second end 42 and a first opening 43 at a first end 41. Preferably, the skin cell collecting chamber 4 forms a cavity in the abrasive end fitting 2.

Preferably, the power source 13 is in electrical communication with the drive system 14 for activating the delivery of the composition in the reservoir 3 to the skin 50 through the supply orifice 39, the drive system 14 being mounted into the housing 12 of the hand piece 10.

More preferably, the drive system 14 both actuate the fluid delivery system 5 to deliver the composition from the reservoir 3 and actuate the abrasive end fitting 2.

While not necessary for operation of the invention, shown mounted on the external surface of the housing 10 is a filter assembly 18. Attached to the filter assembly 38 is a hollow tube 19 or wand assembly upon which the end fitting 2 is mounted. The other end of the filter assembly 18 is connected to the vacuum pump 51 located inside the housing 10. The tissue and cells 100 might be collected in a canister (not represented).

Represented in FIG. 2 is a device 1 identical to the one of FIG.1 except that it comprises a propulsion system 40 and a disposable capsule 31 mountable thereto, for the administration of a skin-coloring composition contained in the capsule under the skin of a human. The propulsion system comprises a container 30 (reservoir), a pressure transmitting member 50 in the form of a piston, a pressure retaining means 60, a pressure generating means 80, and a compressible substance 70. The compressible substance 70 under pressure is a primary source of potential energy for propelling the liquid to be injected.

Represented in FIG.3 is a biologic skin coloured during a deposition time of 5 minutes, the biologic skin of FIG. 3 was additionally submitted to a MDA treatment with the RIIVIVAFACE® device with a number of passes of 15. The biologic skin of FIG. 4 was treated the same manner as the one of FIG. 3 except that it was submitted to no MDA treatment. The colour is more pronounced and more intense on FIG. 3 than on the biologic skin just coloured on FIG. 4. Consequently, the MDA treatment promotes the intensity of the colour. It can be seen that after the excess removal of the composition (FIG. 5 and FIG.

6), the biologic skin treated with the MDA device (FIG. 5) is better coloured than the biologic skin untreated with the MDA device (FIG. 6). On FIG. 5, the colour is more pronounced and more intense than on FIG. 6.

After rinsing the skins (FIG. 7 and FIG. 8), the biologic skin treated with the MDA device (FIG. 7) is better coloured than the biologic skin untreated with the MDA device (FIG. 8). On FIG. 7, the colour is more pronounced and more intense than on FIG. 8.

This shows the interest of the system according to the invention comprising the specific device with the suction unit and the colouring composition.

Claims

1. A system for delivering to the skin, scalp, or lips a skin-coloring cosmetic composition, in particular for correcting a skin color disorder or performing a permanent or long- lasting make-up, comprising a handheld microdermabrasion device (1) powered by a power source (13) comprising: a handheld device (1) including:

- an abrasive member (2) for removing skin dead cells (100) from a layer of skin (50) of a user,

- a suction unit comprising a source of a vacuum (7) in communication with a skin dead cells collecting chamber (4) through a vacuum unit (51), characterized in that the system further comprises a skin-coloring cosmetic composition, especially for correcting a skin color disorder or performing a permanent or long-lasting make-up.

2. A system according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the skin-coloring cosmetic composition is included in a reservoir (3) of the handheld device (1).

3. A system according to claim 1, characterized in that the skin-coloring cosmetic composition is included in a container independent from the handheld device (1).

4. A system according to claim 1, characterized in that the the skin-coloring cosmetic composition is included in a needleless injection device.

5. A system according to claim 1, characterized in that the the skin-coloring cosmetic composition is included in a needle injection device.

6. A system according to claim 2, characterized in that the handheld device (1) comprises a propulsion system (40) for propelling the skin-coloring cosmetic composition with sufficient pressure through an orifice to create a jet, optionally enabling subcutaneous or intracutaneous delivery of the fluid after leaving the reservoir (3).

7. A system according to anyone of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises solid particles, preferably at least one pigment.

8. A system according to anyone of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises an aqueous phase and at least one pigment, especially chosen from organic or mineral pigments.

9. A system according to anyone of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises a lipo-soluble or hydro-soluble coloring agent.

10. A system according to anyone of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is a liquid composition comprising high refraction index particles, interference particles, reflection particles, light absorbent particles, in particular non transparent particles or particles modifying the path of light, in order to prevent reflection.

11. Method for preparing a delivery to the skin, scalp, or lips of a skin-coloring cosmetic composition, in particular for correcting a skin color disorder or performing a permanent or long-lasting make-up, the delivery being performed with the device (1) as defined in any one of the preceding claims, the method comprising:

- determining a desired color correction, and

12. The method of the preceding claim, wherein a color measurement of an area of skin, scalp, or lips comprising said zone is performed, the color measurement of the zone to be treated being especially compared to a beforehand performed color measurement of a healthy zone nearby to compute a difference value (DE), and the desired color correction.