WO2021037679A1

WO2021037679A1 - Use of hair treatment composition in foam format

Info

Publication number: WO2021037679A1
Application number: PCT/EP2020/073369
Authority: WO
Inventors: Niloufar GIDMAN; Raquel GUTIERREZ-ABAD
Original assignee: Unilever Global Ip Limited; Unilever Ip Holdings B.V.; Conopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever
Priority date: 2019-08-23
Filing date: 2020-08-20
Publication date: 2021-03-04

Abstract

The present invention is in the field of hair treatment compositions; in particular it relates to the use of hair treatment compositions in foam format. There exists the need to improve low friction and ease of combing for hair after drying, with a reduction in the heavy, greasy feel. It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a hair treatment composition which can improve low friction on damaged hair or damaged surfaces of the hair.It has been found that the above objects can be achieved by the use of a hair treatment composition containing a conditioning agent in foam format.

Description

USE OF HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITION IN FOAM FORMAT

Field of the Invention The present invention is in the field of hair treatment compositions; in particular it relates to the use of hair treatment compositions in foam format.

Background of the Invention The tactile texture of the human hair is one of the most important factors in designing shampoos, hair conditioners, and hair styling agents. Human hair with soft and breezy texture is desirable for many customers. Therefore, the hair’s tactile texture and frictional properties are constantly evaluated after treatment with hair-care products.

Various physical phenomena affect the tactile texture of human hair. For example, hair friction increases with activities such as bleaching damages the hair causing hindrance while combing and leading to unhealthy looking hair. Use of conditioning agents in hair compositions makes hair easier to comb when wet and more manageable when dry as they are adsorbed onto the hair surface and induce a smooth feeling. Commonly used conditioning agents include cationic surfactants and polymers, high melting point fatty compounds, low melting point oils, silicone compounds, and mixtures thereof. Silicones are well known and are one of the preferred conditioning agents. However increasing silicone concentrations in the hair compositions to achieve better conditioning can contribute to undesirable, heavy and coated feel for users of the product.

Therefore, there still exists the need to improve low friction and ease of combing for hair after drying, with a reduction in the heavy, greasy feel.

JP H11 240821 discloses a hair treatment agent which imparts excellent gloss and smooth feel to hair and also has a split end repairing effect. The hair treatment agent contains (a) one or two kinds of keratin substance decomposition derivatives and (b) silylated peptide.

US 2018/0168948 discloses a method of conditioning the hair by providing a hair care composition comprising from about 3% to about 18% by weight of one more silicones along with other ingredients, dispensing the pressurized hair care composition from an aerosol dispenser as a foam, applying the foam to the hair and rinsing the foam from the hair. US 2017/0304184 discloses a method of treating hair by providing a rinse-off concentrated hair care composition in a foam dispenser comprising from about 3% to about 25% by weight of one more silicones along with other ingredients, dispensing the concentrated hair composition as a foam, applying the foam onto the hair and rinsing the foam from the hair.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a hair treatment composition which can improve low friction on damaged hair or damaged surfaces of the hair.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a hair treatment composition which can improve low friction without increasing the conditionings agents for eg: silicones.

It is yet another object of the present invention to provide a hair treatment composition for turning damaged hair into healthy looking hair.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the above objects can be achieved by the use of a hair treatment composition containing a conditioning agent in foam format.

Summary of the Invention

Accordingly, in a first aspect, the invention relates to use of a hair treatment composition comprising a conditioning agent in foam format for improved friction reduction on damaged hair or damaged surfaces of the hair. In a second aspect, the invention relates to use of a hair treatment composition comprising a conditioning agent in foam format for turning damaged hair into healthy looking hair. In a third aspect, the invention relates to a method of turning damaged hair into healthy looking hair comprising the steps of providing a hair treatment composition comprising a conditioning agent in foam format and washing the hair with the hair treatment composition according to the invention. In the context of the present invention, by ‘healthy looking hair’ it is meant that, it is easy to comb and having a smooth feel.

These and other aspects, features and advantages will become apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art from a reading of the following detailed description and the appended claims. For the avoidance of doubt, any feature of one aspect of the present invention may be utilised in any other aspect of the invention. The word “comprising” is intended to mean “including” but not necessarily “consisting of” or “composed of.” In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive. It is noted that the examples given in the description below are intended to clarify the invention and are not intended to limit the invention to those examples per se. Similarly, all percentages are weight/weight percentages unless otherwise indicated. Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word “about”. Numerical ranges expressed in the format "from x to y" are understood to include x and y. When for a specific feature multiple preferred ranges are described in the format "from x to y", it is understood that all ranges combining the different endpoints are also contemplated. Detailed Description of the Invention

In a first aspect, the present invention provides use of a hair treatment composition comprising a conditioning agent in foam format for improved friction reduction on damaged hair or damaged surfaces of the hair.

It has been found that there is improved friction reduction on damaged hair when the conditioning agents are delivered through a composition in foam format.

The conditioning agents used in the present invention includes any of the conditioning agents used or usable in hair treatment compositions such as cationic surfactants and polymers, high melting point fatty compounds, low melting point oils, silicone compounds, and mixtures thereof.

Silicone compounds are the most preferred conditioning agents.

The silicones used in the present invention includes any of the silicones used or usable in hair treatment compositions as conditioning agents.

Suitable silicones include polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone. Also suitable for use compositions of the invention (particularly shampoos and conditioners) are polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol. Also suitable for use in compositions of the invention are silicone gums having a slight degree of cross-linking, as are described for example in WO 96/31188.

The viscosity of the silicone itself (not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning composition) is typically from 350 to 200,000,000 mm² sec¹ at 25°C. Preferably the viscosity is at least 5,000 mm² sec¹ at 25°C, more preferably at least 10,000 mm² sec ¹. Preferably the viscosity does not exceed 20,000,000 mm² sec¹, more preferably 10,000,000 mm² sec¹, most preferably 5,000, 000 mm² sec¹. Viscosities are generally provided by suppliers of silicones, either as measured or as deduced from their molecular weight.

Silicones used in the present invention may also include functionalised silicone. Suitable functionalised silicones include, amino-, carboxy-, betaine-, quaternary ammonium-, carbohydrate-, hydroxy-and alkoxy-substituted silicones. Preferably, the functionalised silicone contains multiple substitutions.

For the avoidance of doubt, as regards hydroxyl-substituted silicones, a polydimethylsiloxane merely having hydroxyl end groups (which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol) is not considered a functionalised silicone within the definition of the present invention. However, a polydimethylsiloxane having hydroxyl substitutions along the polymer chain is considered a functionalised silicone. A preferred class of functionalised silicone for inclusion in compositions of the invention is amino functional silicone. By "amino functional silicones” is meant a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, or a quaternary ammonium group. Examples of suitable amino functional silicones include: polysiloxanes having the CTFA designation "amodimethicone".

Specific examples of amino functional silicones suitable for use in the invention are the aminosilicone oils DC2-8220, DC2-8166, DC2-8466, and DC2-8950-114 (all ex Dow Corning), and GE 1149-75, (ex General Electric Silicones). Suitable quaternary silicone polymers are described in EP-A- 0530974. A preferred quaternary silicone polymer is K3474, ex Goldschmidt.

Another preferred functional silicone is an alkoxy-substituted silicone. Such molecules are known as silicone copolyols and have one or more polyethyleneoxide or polypropyleneoxide groups bonded to the silicone polymer backbone, optionally through an alkyl linking group. An example of a type of silicone copolyol useful in compositions of the invention has a molecular structure according to the formula depicted below:

Si (CH₃)3 [O-Si (CHs) (A)] _P- [O-Si (CH₃) (B)] _q-0-Si (CH₃)₃

In this formula, A is an alkylene chain with from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 18, more preferably 10 to 16. B is a group with the structure : - (R)- (EO)_r (PO)_s-OH wherein R is a linking group, preferably an alkylene group with 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Preferably R is- (CH2)2-. The mean values of r and s are 5 or more, preferably 10 or more, more preferably 15 or more. It is preferred if the mean values of r and s are 100 or less. In the formula, the value of p is suitably 10 or more, preferably 20 or more, more preferably 50 or more and most preferably 100 or more. The value of q is suitably from 1 to 20 wherein the ratio p/q is preferably 10 or more, more preferably 20 or more. The value of p + q is a number from 11 to 500, preferably from 50 to 300.

Suitable silicone copolyols have an HLB of 10 or less, preferably 7 or less, more preferably 4 or less. A suitable silicone copolyol material is DC5200, known as Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone (I NCI name), available from Dow Corning. It is preferred to use a combination of amino and non- functional silicones. In particular, when the silicone is a silicone oil blend, it is preferred if the silicone oil blend comprises

(i) from 50 to 95% by weight of the total weight of silicone oil of a polydimethylsiloxane gum having a molecular weight of at least 200,000 Daltons and

(ii) from 5 to 50% by weight of the total weight of silicone oil a second silicone which is an amino- functionalised polydimethylsiloxane having a molecular weight of less than 200,000 Daltons. Suitable amino-functionalised silicones for such a blend are described in EP 455,185 (Helene Curtis). An example of a commercially available amino-functionalised silicone useful in the composition of the invention is DC-8220 available from Dow Corning, which has a viscosity of 150 mm² s ¹ at 25°C and a mole percent amine functionality of 2. 0%.

The silicones may be added to the composition as a fluid and subsequently emulsified, but preferably are added as pre- formed emulsions for ease of processing.

Pre-formed emulsions of amino functional silicone are also available from suppliers of silicone oils such as Dow Corning and General Electric. Specific examples include DC939 Cationic Emulsion and the non-ionic emulsions DC2-7224, DC2-8467, DC2- 8177 and DC2-8154 (all ex Dow Corning).

The silicone used in the present invention include non-linear, preferably branched organopolysiloxane comprising monomer units of silsesquioxane having a formula (RS1O3/2) n where n = 1 ;

R is an alkyl group, preferably methyl, ethyl or propyl, more preferably methyl; and copolymer segments of polydialkylsiloxane, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably methyl, and the end groups are preferably -OH; the most preferred polydialkylsiloxane is dimethiconol.

Silicones used in the present invention may also include cyclomethicones. The silicones may be present in the composition in a concentration of 0.1 to less than 3%, preferably at least 0.25%, more preferably at least 0.5%, still more preferably at least 0.75%, even more preferably at least 1% but typically not more than 2.9%, preferably not more than 2.5%, more preferably not more than 2%, still more preferably not more than 1.5% by weight of the composition.

Hair treatment compositions according to the invention may suitably take the form of shampoos, conditioners, sprays, mousses or lotions. Particularly preferred forms are shampoos, conditioners and mousses, including "3-in-1" styling shampoos. Most preferably, the compositions according to the inventions are rinse off compositions like shampoos or conditioners, conditioners being the more preferred among the two.

A preferred hair treatment composition in accordance with the invention is a shampoo composition which, in addition to the silicone comprises surfactant to provide a deterging benefit. The deterging surfactant is selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof.

Any of the anionic surfactants conventionally used or usable in shampoo compositions may be used, either alone or in combination.

Suitable anionic surfactants include the alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, Nalkoyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, and alpha-olefin sulphonates, especially their sodium, magnesium ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates may contain from one to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule, and preferably contain 2 to 3 ethylene oxide units per molecule.

Examples of suitable anionic surfactants include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate and sodium Nlauryl sarcosinate.

The most preferred anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium cocoyl isethionate and lauryl ether carboxylic acid (n) EO (where n is from 10 to 20).

Nonionic surfactants suitable for use in compositions of the invention may include condensation products of aliphatic (C8-C18) primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups. Other suitable nonionics include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides. Example include coco mono- or diethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide.

Any of the amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactants conventionally used or usable in hair shampoo compositions may be used, either alone or in combination. Amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants suitable for use in compositions of the invention may include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms. Examples include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine and preferably lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocamphopropionate. The most preferred amphoteric surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine. The surfactants may be present in the composition in a concentration of 0.1 to 50%, preferably at least 5%, more preferably at least 10%, still more preferably at least 15%, even more preferably at least 20% or even at least 25% but typically not more than 45%, preferably not more than 40%, more preferably not more than 35%, still more preferably not more than 30%, even more preferably not more than 32% by weight of the composition.

Hair treatment compositions in accordance with the invention may also take the form of hair conditioning compositions, which preferably comprise one or more cationic surfactants. The use of cationic surfactants is especially preferred, because these ingredients are capable of providing conditioning benefits to hair. Examples of cationic surfactants include quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants corresponding to the following general formula:

[N(R1)(R2)(R3)(R4_)]+ _(X)- in which R^ , R2, R3_ and R^ are each independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group of from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halide, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, and alkylsulphate radicals.

The aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The longer chain aliphatic groups, e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.

Specific examples of such quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants of the above general formula are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimethylammonium chloride,

PEG-2 oleylammonium chloride and salts of these, where the chloride is replaced by other halide (e.g., bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, or alkylsulphate.

In a preferred class of cationic surfactant of the above general formula, R^ is a C16 to C22 saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, alkyl chain and R2, R3 and R^ are each independently selected from CH3 and CH2CH2OH, preferably CH3. Specific examples of such preferred quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC), behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC) and mixtures thereof.

Alternatively, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines may be used in combination with an acid to provide a cationic surfactant suitable for use in the invention. The acid protonates the amine and forms an amine salt in situ in the hair care composition. The amine is therefore effectively a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudo quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.

The acid used may be any organic or mineral acid which is capable of protonating the amine in the hair care composition. Suitable acids include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid and mixtures thereof.

Suitable fatty amines of this type include amidoamines of the following general formula: R¹-C(0)-N(H)-R2-N(R³)(R⁴) in which R^ is a fatty acid chain containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, R² is an alkylene group containing from one to four carbon atoms, and R³ and R⁴ are each independently, an alkyl group having from one to four carbon atoms.

Specific examples of suitable materials of the above general formula are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine.stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and diethylaminoethylstearamide. Also useful are dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-tallowpropane diamine, ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidyl behenylamine. Particularly preferred is stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

In hair conditioning compositions according to the invention, the level of cationic surfactant is from 0.1 to 10%, preferably at least 0.5%, more preferably at least 1%, still more preferably at least 2%, even more preferably at least 3% or even at least 4% but typically not more than 9%, preferably not more than 8%, more preferably not more than 7%, still more preferably not more than 6%, even more preferably not more than 5% by weight of the composition.

Hair treatment compositions of the invention may also contain one or more additional conditioning agents, preferably selected from cationic polymers, protein hydrolyzates and quaternised protein hydrolysates.

Suitable cationic polymers include:

Guar hydroxypropyltrimmonium chloride Poly (dimethyldiallyammonium chloride) Poly(dimethylbutenyl ammonium chloride) -a,wbis(triethanolammonium chloride) Poly(dipropyldiallyammonium chloride)

Poly(methyl-B-propaniodiallyammonium chloride)

Poly(diallypiperidinium chloride)

Poly(vinyl pyridinium chloride) Quaternised poly (vinyl alcohol)

Quaternised poly (dimethylaminoethylmethacylate)

Poly-Quaternium 7 Poly-Quaternium 10 Poly-Quaternium 11 Poly-Quaternium 22

Poly-Quaternium 16 and mixtures thereof. Suitable protein hydrolysates include lauryl dimonium hydroxy propylamino hydrolysed animal protein, available commercially under the trade name LAMEQUAT L, and hydrolysed keratin containing sulphur-bearing amino acids, available commercially under the trade name CROQUAT WKP.

A further optional component of hair treatment compositions of the invention is a deposition aid, preferably a cationic deposition polymer.

The cationic deposition aid will generally be present at levels of from 0.001 to 5%, preferably from about 0.01 to 1%, more preferably from about 0.02% to about 0.5W by weight. The polymer may be a homopolymer or be formed from two or more types of monomers. The molecular weight of the polymer will generally be between 5000 and 10000000, typically at least 10 000 and preferably in the range 100000 to about 2 000000. The polymers will have cat ionic nitrogen containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or a mixture thereof.

The cationic charge density has been found to need to be at least 0.1 meq/g, preferably above 0.8 or higher. The cationic charge density should not exceed 4 meq/g, it is preferably less than 3 and more preferably less than 2 meq/g. The charge density can be measured using the Kjeldahl method and should be within the above limits at the desired pH of use, which will in general be from about 3 to 9 and preferably between 4 and 8.

The cationic nitrogen-containing group will generally be present as a substituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic deposition polymer. Thus, when the polymer is not a homopolymer it can contain spacer non-cationic monomer units. Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition.

Suitable cationic deposition aids include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth)acrylamides, alkyl (meth)acrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine. The alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-3 alkyl groups. Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.

The cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary, are preferred.

Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized in the amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.

Suitable cationic amino and quaternary ammonium monomers include, for example, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkyl aminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylamino alkylmethacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts, and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen-containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium, and quaternized pyrrolidine, e.g., alkyl vinyl imidazolium, and quaternized pyrrolidine, e.g., alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinyl pyridinium, alkyl vinyl pyrrolidine salts. The alkyl portions of these .monomers are preferably lower alkyls such as the C1-C3 alkyls, more preferably C1 and C2 alkyls.

Suitable amine-substituted vinyl monomers for use herein include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide, and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably C1- C7hydrocarbyls, more preferably C1-C3, alkyls.

The cationic deposition aids can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.

Suitable cationic deposition aids include, for example: copolymers of l-vinyl-2- pyrrolidine and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., Chloride salt) (referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, "CTFA". as Polyquaternium-16) such as those commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the LWIQUAT tradename (e.g., LWIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to in the industry by CTFA as Polyquaternium-ll) such as those commercially from Gar Corporation (Wayne, NJ, USA) under the GAFQUAT tradename (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N); cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymer including, for example, dimethyldiallyammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-and copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, as described in U.S. Patent 4,009,256; and cationic polyacrylamides as described in W095/22311.

Other cationic deposition aids that can be used include polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives.

Other cationic deposition aids that can be used include cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Commercially available from Celanese Corp. in their Jaguar trademark series).

Other materials include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g.. as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418, incorporated by reference herein), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581, incorporated by reference herein).

As discussed above, the cationic deposition aid is water soluble. This does not mean, however, that it must be soluble in the hair treatment composition. Preferably, however, the polymer is either soluble in the composition, or in a complex coacervate phase in the composition, formed by the polymer and anionic material. Complex coacervates of the polymer can be formed with anionic surfactants or with anionic polymers that can optionally be added to the compositions of the invention (e.g., sodium polystyrene sulfonate). Coacervate formation is dependent upon a variety of criteria such as molecular weight, concentration, and ratio of interacting ionic materials, ionic strength (including modification of ionic strength, for example, by addition of salts), charge density of the cat ionic and anionic species, pH, and temperature.

It is believed to be particularly advantageous for the cationic deposition aid to be present in the composition in a coacervate phase, or to form a coacervate phase upon application or rinsing of the composition to or from the hair. Complex coacervates are believed to more readily deposit on the hair. Thus, in general, it is preferred that the deposition aid exist in the composition as a coacervate phase or form a coacervate phase upon dilution. If not already a coacervate in the composition, the deposition aid will preferably exist in a complex coacervate form in the composition upon dilution with water to a water: composition weight ratio of about 20: 1 , more preferably at about 10: 1 , even more preferably at about 8:1.

Techniques for analysis of formation of complex coacervates are known in the art. For example, microscopic analyses of the compositions, at any chosen stage of dilution, can be utilized to identify whether a coacervate phase has formed. Such coacervate phase will be identifiable as an additional emulsified phase in the composition. The use of dyes can aid in distinguishing the coacervate phase from other insoluble phases dispersed in the composition.

Preferably the deposition aid is selected from the group comprising cationic polyacrylamides, hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers and cationic guar derivatives.

Particularly preferred deposition aids are Jaguar C13S with a cationic charge density of 0.8meq/g. Jaguar C13S is guar hydroxypropyltriamonium chloride. Other particularly suitable materials include Jaguar C15, JaguarC17 and Jaguar C16 and Jaguar C162,

A preferred cellulose ether is Polymer JR400.

The composition may further comprise from 0.1 to 5 % of a silicone suspending agent selected from selected from polyacrylic acids cross linked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acid- containing monomers and acrylic esters, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives. The long chain acyl derivative is desirably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides of fatty acids having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and Polyethylene glycol 3 distearate are preferred long chain acyl derivatives. Polyacrylic acid is available commercially as Carbopol 420, Carbopol 488 or Carbopol 493. Polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with a polyfunctional agent may also be used, they are available commercially as Carbopol 910, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 941 and Carbopol 980. An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing a monomer and acrylic acid esters is Carbopol 1342. All Carbopol materials are available from Goodrich and Carbopol is a trademark.

Suitable cross linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters are Pemulen TR1 or Pemulen TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, for example that available as Kelzan mu.

Another ingredient that may advantageously be incorporated into hair treatment compositions of the invention is a fatty alcohol material. The use of such materials is especially preferred in conditioning compositions of the invention, in particular conditioning compositions which comprise one or more cationic surfactant materials. The combined use of fatty alcohol materials and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, wherein the cationic surfactant is dispersed.

Preferred fatty alcohols comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 20. Examples of preferred fatty alcohols are cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions of the invention. The level of fatty alcohol materials is conveniently from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is preferably from 10:1 to 1:10, more preferably from 4:1 to 1:8, most preferably from 1:1 to 1:4.

Typically, the hair treatment composition has a pH of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably at least 3.5, more preferably at least 4, still more preferably at least 4.5 but typically not more than 6.5, preferably not more than 6, more preferably not more than 5.5 or even not more than 5.

Viscosity of the hair treatment composition is low enough to be pumped from the dispenser into the hand and form a viable foam. Preferably, the viscosity of the hair treatment composition is from 50,000 to 300,000 mPa-s at 20 °C, preferably at least 75,000 mPa-s, more preferably at least 100,000 mPa-s, still more preferably at least 125,000 mPa-s, even more preferably at least 150,000 mPa-s but typically not more than 275,000 mPa-s, preferably not more than 250,000 mPa-s, more preferably not more than 225,000 mPa-s, still more preferably not more than 200,000 mPa-s or even more preferably not more than 175,000 mPa-s. A foam dispenser is used to dispense the hair treatment composition as foam. Said foam dispenser for producing the foam can be of any of the manually activated means as is known in the art, e.g. trigger-type, pump-type or the non-aerosol self-pressurized type foam means. Hair treatment compositions in accordance with the invention may also take the form of aerosol foams in which case a propellant must be included in the composition. This agent is responsible for expelling the other materials from the container and forming the hair mousse character. The propellant gas can be any liquefiable gas conventionally used for aerosol containers. Examples of suitable propellants include dimethyl ether, propane, nbutane and isobutane, used singly or in admixture. The amount of the propellant gases is governed by normal factors well known in the aerosol art. For aerosol foams, the level of propellant is generally from about 3% to about 30%, preferably from about 5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 8% to about 10% of the total composition.

Depending on the type of composition employed, one or more additional ingredients conventionally incorporated into hair treatment compositions may be included in compositions of the invention. Such additional ingredients include styling agents, such as resins and hair-setting polymers, perfumes, dyes, buffering or pH adjusting agents, viscosity modifiers, opacifiers, pearlescers, preservatives, antibacterial agents, antidandruff agents, foam boosters, proteins, moisturising agents, herb or other plant extracts and other natural ingredients.

In a second aspect, the invention provides use of a hair treatment composition comprising a conditioning agent in foam format for turning damaged hair into healthy looking hair.

In a third aspect, the present invention provides a method of turning damaged hair into healthy looking hair comprising the steps of providing a hair treatment composition comprising a conditioning agent in foam format and washing the hair with the hair treatment composition according to the invention.

The invention will now be further described by reference to the following Examples. In the Examples, all percentages are by weight based on total weight, unless otherwise specified.

Examples Example 1 : Effect of the hair treatment composition comprising a conditioning agent in foam format on friction reduction

All the hair switches were base washed with the composition in table 1, subsequently shampooed with the composition in table 2, followed by washing with appropriate foam or standard conditioner in table 3 or 4, using the hair switch washing protocol mentioned below.

Table 1: Base wash composition

Table 2: Shampoo formulation

Table 3: Standard conditioner formulations

Table 4: Foam conditioner formulations

Hair switch washing protocol Shampooing protocol 5 x TA switches (2.5g / 6”) were held under a tap for 30 seconds to ensure switches were fully wet. The switches were washed using the flow / temperature-controlled taps, with a flow rate of 4 litres/minute and at a temperature of 35°C. The excess water was removed by running the first and middle fingers down the length of the switches once. The switches were laid out side by side, and 0.05g/g of the base wash composition in table 1 was applied evenly down the length of each switch. The switches were then held together and while holding each end of the switch, the base composition was massaged into the hair for 30 seconds. The switches were then rinsed for 30 seconds, running the first and middle fingers down the length of the switch once every 5 seconds. The excess water was removed by running the first and middle fingers down the length of the switches once. The above steps were then repeated using the shampoo formulation in table 2.

Conditioning protocol The base washed and shampooed switches were rewetted by holding them under the tap for 30 seconds. The excess water was removed by running the first and middle fingers down the length of the switches once. The switches were laid out side by side and 0.05g/g hair or 0.1 g/g hair of the conditioner formulation was applied evenly down the length of each switch. The switches were held together, and the conditioner was massaged into the hair for 1 minute using a root to tip motion with the thumb and first finger. The switches were rinsed for 1 minute, running the first and middle fingers down the length of the switch once every 20 seconds. The excess water was removed by running the first and middle fingers down the length of the switches once. The switches were then separated and dried in a 50°C oven for 30 minutes.

Friction was measured using the texture analyser to obtain the dry friction value. Friction measurement methodology

All friction measurements were carried out under controlled conditions of 20 degrees and 50 % RH.

Friction was measured using a TA.XT2i Texture Analyser supplied by Stable Micro Systems, Surrey, UK. The friction probe was a stainless steel cylinder, which was coated with rubber material. The load on the friction contact was approximately 560 g. When in use, an area of contact between the friction probe and the hair of approximately 1.0 cm² was achieved.

The methodology used to assess the friction properties of hair treated with test conditioners was as follows: A switch of hair was securely mounted onto the texture analyser, the hair fibres being aligned by combing before being secured in a flat configuration. The friction probe was placed onto the hair and moved along the hair at a speed of 10 mms ¹ to measure the friction between the probe and the hair. The friction values reported below are of friction hysteresis in units of g.mm, obtained by integrating the total measured friction force over the total distance travelled by the probe, with and against cuticle. Two measurements were performed per switch (one up and one down the hair switch) and 5 switches per formulation were tested. The values reported are the mean values derived from these ten readings per treatment.

Table 5a

The above table shows that bleached hair washed with foam conditioner formulations exhibit improved friction reduction when compared to bleached hair washed with standard conditioner formulations.

Claims

1 Use of a hair treatment composition comprising 0.1 to less than 3% by weight of one or more silicones in foam format for improved friction reduction on damaged hair or damaged surfaces of the hair.

2 Use of a hair treatment composition comprising 0.1 to less than 3% by weight of one or more silicones in foam format for turning damaged hair into healthy looking hair, wherein by turning damaged hair into healthy looking hair it is meant to bring about ease of combing and a smooth feel to hair.

3 Use according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the silicone is selected from polyorganosiloxane, preferably polydimethylsiloxane; functionalised silicones, preferably amino functional silicones; branched organopolysiloxane comprising monomer units of silsesquioxane having a formula (RS1O3_/2) _n where n = 1 ;

R is an alkyl group, preferably methyl, ethyl or propyl, more preferably methyl; and copolymer segments of polydialkylsiloxane or a mixture thereof. 4 Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hair treatment composition is a rinse off composition.

5 Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hair treatment composition is a conditioner.

6 A method of turning damaged hair into healthy looking hair comprising the steps of a providing a hair treatment composition comprising 0.1 to less than 3% by weight of one or more silicones in foam format; and b washing the hair with the hair treatment composition in (a).