WO2020237673A1

WO2020237673A1 - Composition for cleansing keratin materials

Info

Publication number: WO2020237673A1
Application number: PCT/CN2019/089667
Authority: WO
Inventors: Dongfang Chen
Original assignee: L'oreal; HU, Fan
Priority date: 2019-05-31
Filing date: 2019-05-31
Publication date: 2020-12-03
Also published as: CN113873988B; CN113873988A

Abstract

Provided is a composition for cleansing keratin materials with a pH from 3.5 to 5.0, comprising, in an aqueous phase: a)at least one amino acid surfactant; b)at least one hydroxyl fatty acid with 10-28 carbon atoms; c)at least one organic acid different from hydroxyl fatty acid with 10-28 carbon atoms as anti-acne and/or peeling agent; and d)at least one anionic surfactant other than amino acid surfactant. A method for cleansing keratin materials is also provided, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of said composition, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period oftime.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CLEANSING KERATIN MATERIALS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for cleansing keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a method for cleansing keratin materials using said composition.

BACKGROUD ART

Cleansing the skin is very important for caring for the skin. It must be as efficient as possible because greasy residues, such as excess sebum, the remnants of cosmetic products used daily, and make-up products, in particular waterproof products, accumulate in the skin folds, and can block the pores of the skin and result in the appearance of spots.

Several types of skin cleansing products, for example, rinsable cleansing anhydrous oils and gels, and foaming creams, lotions, are known.

Rinsable anhydrous oils and gels have a cleansing action by virtue of oils present in these formulations. These oils make it possible to dissolve fatty residues and to disperse make-up pigments. These products are effective and well tolerated.

However, they exhibit the disadvantages of being heavy, of not foaming and of not conferring a feeling of freshness on application, which is disadvantageous from a cosmetic viewpoint. Moreover, products of this type require dry hands when applying on the skin. The process is thus inconvenient.

On the other hand, foaming creams, lotions and gels have a cleansing action by virtue of the surfactants, which suspend the fatty residues on the face. They are effective and pleasant to use because they foam and they are easy to remove.

Recently, cleansing products, in particular facial cleansing compositions, are expected to have not only good foaming ability, but also additional cosmetic effect, for example anti-acne or eliminating excess layers of dead skin cells from the skin surface (i.e. peeling) in order to provide a shiny skin with a youthful appearance.

Most of the foaming cleansing products which are well-known in the prior art and are on the market are based on formulas containing fatty acid salts (soaps) preferably with anionic surfactants of the sulphate type (i.e. alkylsulfates and alkylether sulfates) .

However, the drawback of these formulas is that, in order to provide a high level of foaming performance, they need to have a high pH value (approximatively 9) .

It is known that some organic acid can be used for anti-acne or to eliminate excess layers of dead skin cells from the skin surface. However, the addition of such organic acid will decrease the pH of the cleansing product and therefore adversely impact the foaming and rinsing ability.

Also, since low viscosity/liquid type product would be too thin for face massage and common used polymer, for example, carbomer, losses its viscosity in low pH environment because it is to be thickened by alkaline, so the pH of the product will increase, most low pH cleansers are thickened by special polymer in order to gain good cleansing foam performance.

Therefore, it is needed to formulate compositions for cleansing keratin materials with good cleansing properties and anti-acne and/or peeling effect.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The inventors have found that such a need can be achieved by the present invention.

Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention relates to a composition for cleansing keratin materials with a pH from 3.5 to 5.0, comprising, in an aqueous phase:

a) at least one amino acid surfactant;

b) at least one hydroxyl fatty acid with 10-28 carbon atoms;

c) at least one organic acid different from hydroxyl fatty acid with 10-28 carbon atoms as anti-acne and/or peeling agent; and

d) at least one anionic surfactant other than amino acid surfactant.

The composition according to the present invention presents micellar texture.

The composition according to the present invention also provides a good cleansing performance during application.

Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention is able to deliver anti-acne and/or peeling efficacy, resulting in improvement on keratin material (in particular, the skin) texture.

It may be used as a daily facial cleanser. The composition of the present invention is a rinse off product. Thus, such a composition can be applied on the skin (i.e. face and/or body) , and then rinsed with flush water.

According to another aspect, the present invention provides a method for cleansing keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of the composition according to the present invention, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from... to... " .

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. Human skin, in particular facial skin, is most particularly considered according to the present invention.

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones.

As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

According to one aspect, the present invention relates to a composition for cleansing keratin materials with a pH from 3.5 to 5.0, comprising, in an aqueous phase:

a) at least one amino acid surfactant;

b) at least one hydroxyl fatty acid with 10-28 carbon atoms;

d) at least one anionic surfactant other than amino acid surfactant.

Amino acid surfactants

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amino acid surfactant.

With an amino acid surfactant, a good skin finish can be achieved.

In one embodiment, said amino acid surfactant is derived from a carboxylate salt of amino acid wherein the amine group situated on the α-carbon or β-carbon of an amino acid salt is acylated with a C ₈ to C ₂₂ fatty acid derivative.

The carboxylate salts of these amino acids can be formed by conventional means such as by neutralization of the respective amino acid with a base. The amine group situated on the α-carbon or β-carbon of the neutralized amino acid is acylated with a fatty acid halide (acyl halide) in the presence of a base via the well-known Schotten-Baumann reaction giving the amide, thus forming the desired surfactant reaction product, i.e. the amino acid surfactant. Suitable acyl halides for acylation of the amino acid carboxylate salt include acyl chlorides, bromides, fluorides, and iodides. The acyl halides can be prepared by reacting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ to C ₂₂ fatty acid with a thionyl halide (bromide, chloride, fluoride or iodide) . Representative acyl halides include but are not limited to the acyl chlorides selected from decanoyl chloride, dodecanoyl chloride (lauroyl chloride) , cocoyl chloride (coconut oil derived fatty acid chlorides) tetradecanoyl chloride (myristoyl chloride) , hexadecanoyl chloride (palmitoyl chloride) , octadecanoyl chloride (stearoyl chloride) , 9-octadecenoyl chloride (oleoyl chloride) , eicosanoyl chloride (arachidoyl chloride) , docosanoyl chloride (behenoyl chloride) , and any mixture thereof. Other acyl halides include the bromides, fluorides and iodides of the foregoing fatty acids. A method for preparing acyl halides as well as an alternative method for acylating amino acids is set forth in US Patent Application Publication No. 2008/0200704, published on August 21, 2008, which application is incorporated herein by reference.

In one embodiment, said amino acid surfactant is represented by the formula (I) :

wherein:

Z represents a linear or branched, alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

X is hydrogen or methyl group,

n is 0 or 1,

Y is selected from hydrogen, -CH ₃, -CH (CH ₃) ₂, -CH ₂CH (CH ₃) ₂, -CH (CH ₃) CH ₂CH ₃, -CH ₂C ₆H ₅, -CH ₂C ₂H ₄OH, -CH ₂OH, -CH (OH) CH ₃, - (CH ₂) ₄NH ₂, - (CH ₂) ₃NHC (NH) NH ₂, -CH ₂C (O) O ^-M ⁺, - (CH ₂) ₂C (O) OH, and- (CH ₂) ₂C (O) O ^-M ⁺, and

M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as for example sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the amino fatty acid of formula (I) :

Z represents a linear or branched C ₈ to C ₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl group,

X is a hydrogen or methyl group,

n is 0,

Y is selected from hydrogen and-CH ₃, and

Examples of the amino acid surfactants are salt of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, and any mixture thereof.

More specifically, mentions can be made of the amino acid surfactants such as dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl β-alaninate, lauroyl β-alaninate, lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, myristoyl β-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methyl β-alaninate and sodium myristoyl methyl β-alaninate, palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.

References can be made to the commercially available amino acid surfactant of, for example, acylsarcosinates, for instance the sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Sarkosyl NL

by the company Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L

by the company SEPPIC, the sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate

by the company Nikkol or the sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate

by the company Nikkol; alaninates, for instance the sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN

by the company Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone

by the company Kawaken, and the N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine triethanolamine sold under the name Alanone

by the company Kawaken, the sodium cocoyl alaninate sold under the name AM ILITE ACS-12 by the company AJINOMOTO; N-acylglutamates, for instance the triethanolamine monococoylglutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate

by the company Ajinomoto and the triethanolamine lauroylglutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-

by the company Ajinomoto; glycinates, for instance sodium N-cocoylglycinate sold under the name Amilite

by the company Ajinomoto; aspartates, for instance the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and of triethanolamine N-myristoylaspartate, sold under the name

by the company Mitsubishi; citrates, and any mixture thereof.

According to the present invention, the preferred amino acid surfactant is selected from alaninate surfactants, such as, cocoyl methyl β-alaninate, lauroyl β-alaninate, lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, myristoyl β-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methyl β-alaninate and sodium myristoyl methyl β-alaninate.

Advantageously, the amino acid surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 4 wt. %to 16 wt. %, more preferably 6 wt. %to 12 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydroxyl fatty acid with 10-28 carbon atoms

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydroxyl fatty acid with 10-28 carbon atoms.

The C ₁₀-C ₂₈ hydroxyl fatty acid can be used in the composition according to the present invention may contain one or more hydroxyl and one or more carboxyl.

In an embodiment, the C ₁₀-C ₂₈ hydroxyl fatty acid comprises one hydroxyl and one carboxyl.

In a preferred embodiment, the hydroxyl fatty acid comprises one hydroxyl, one carboxyl and 12-24, preferably 14-24 carbon atoms in the main chain.

Examples of C ₁₀-C ₂₈ hydroxyl fatty acid includes, but not limited to, 2-Hydroxylauric acid, 2-Hydroxymyristic acid, 2-Hydroxypalmitic acid, 2-Hydroxystearic acid, 2-Hydroxyarachidic acid, 2-Hydroxybehenic acid, 2-Hydroxytricosanoic acid, 2-Hydroxylignoceric acid, 3-Hydroxylaulic acid, 3-Hydroxytridecylic acid, 3-Hydroxymyristic acid, 3-Hydroxypalmitic acid, 3-Hydroxystearic acid, 6-Hydroxystearic acid, 7-Hydroxystearic acid, 12-Hydroxystearic acid, 15-Hydroxypentadecylic acid, 16-Hydroxypalmitic acid, 17-Hydroxymargalic acid, 20-Hydroxyarachidic acid, 22-Hydroxybehenic acid.

Advantageously, the hydroxyl fatty acid is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably 1 wt. %to 6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The inventors found that the composition according to the present invention has micellar texture in low pH environment (with pH of 3.5-5.0) and is stable over time, due to coexistence of a) amino acid surfactant and b) hydroxyl fatty acid with 10-28 carbon atom.

With a micellar texture, the composition is easy to spread, gets very quick foaming speed and good foaming volume.

“Stable over time” is understood to mean compositions of the present invention which, after storage at any temperature between 4℃ and 45℃ for 2 months, do not exhibit any macroscopic change in colour, smell or viscosity, any variation in pH or any variation in microscopic appearance.

According to the present invention, the weight ratio (a/b) of a) the amino acid surfactant and b) the hydroxyl fatty acid with 10-28 carbon atoms of the composition according to the present invention ranges from 1 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8.

Organic acid

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one organic acid different from hydroxyl fatty acid with 10-28 carbon atoms as anti-acne and/or peeling agent.

In the present application, reference to organic acid means organic acid different from hydroxyl fatty acid with 10-28 carbon atoms, unless otherwise defined.

Peeling is well-known approach to improve the appearance and/or the texture of the skin and/or of the scalp, in particular improving the radiance and the homogeneity of the complexion and/or reducing the visible and/or tactile irregularities of the skin, and in particular for improving the surface appearance of the skin, for reducing actinic lentigo, acne marks and chickenpox marks, and also for preventing, reducing or combating the signs of skin aging, and in particular for smoothing out the irregularities of the skin's texture, such as wrinkles and fine lines.

Peeling has the effect of removing a superficial part of the skin (epidermis and possibly superficial layer of the dermis) .

Organic acid can be used as anti-acne and/or peeling agent is preferably selected from saturated and unsaturated monocarboxylic acids, saturated and unsaturated dicarboxylic acids, saturated and unsaturated tricarboxylic acids; α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids of monocarboxylic acids; α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids of dicarboxylic acids; α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids of tricarboxylic acids; keto acids, α-keto acids, β-keto acids of polycarboxylic acids, of polyhydroxymonocarboxylic acids, of polyhydroxydicarboxylic acids or of polyhydroxytricarboxylic acids; and (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl) acetic acid.

Preferred α-hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and mandelic acid.

Preferred β-hydroxy acids are selected from: salicylic acid and derivatives thereof, in particular capryloyl salicylic acid.

Those skilled in the art will be able to define the required amount of organic acid present in the composition according to the invention in order to obtain the desired effect on the skin.

Preferably, the organic acid is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 20 wt. %, more preferably from 3 wt. %to 15 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

More preferably, if presents, the α-hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

More preferably, if presents, the β-hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional anionic surfactants

The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants other than the amino acid surfactants above.

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

In the present description, a species is termed "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

Said additional anionic surfactants are preferably chosen from sulfonate surfactants and carboxylate surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.

It is understood in the present description that:

- the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or-COO-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;

- the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃H or-SO ₃–) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions.

The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or-COO-) .

They may be chosen from the following compounds: acyllactylates, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C ₆-C ₃₀ aryl) ether carboxylic acids, and also the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃H or-SO ₃ ^–) .

They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt. Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol salts a nd tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salts. Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Preferentially, said anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- acyllactylates, especially of C ₁₂-C ₂₈ or even C ₁₄-C ₂₄, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

- C ₆-C ₂₄ and especially C ₁₂-C ₂₀ N-acyltaurates;

- (C ₆-C ₂₄) alkyl ether carboxylates and especially (C ₁₂-C ₂₀) alkyl ether carboxylates;

- C ₆-C ₂₄ and especially C ₁₂-C ₂₀ alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates, in particular of sodium;

- C ₆-C ₂₄ and especially C ₁₂-C ₂₀ alkylethersulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates, which are oxyethylenated, especially with 3 EO, especially of sodium;

- (C ₆-C ₂₄) acylisethionates, preferably (C ₁₂-C ₁₈) acylisethionates, and most particularly cocoylisethionates, especially of sodium;

- C ₆-C ₂₄ and especially C ₁₂-C ₂₀ alkylsulfoacetates;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

In an embodiment, the anionic surfactant other than the amino acid surfactant is selected from C ₆-C ₂₄ and especially C ₁₂-C ₂₀ alkylethersulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates, which are oxyethylenated, especially with 3 EO, especially of sodium, preferably disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, which is commercial available under the name TEXAPON SB 3 UNKONS from the company BASF.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant other than the amino acid surfactant is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 5 wt. %to 45 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 40 wt. %, and more preferably from 20 wt. %to 40 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactants

The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more nonionic surfactants.

The nonionic surfactants that may be used may be chosen from alcohols, α-diols and (C ₁- ₂₀) alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; and/or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; C ₈-C ₃₀ fatty acid alkanolamides, such as C ₈-C ₃₀ fatty acid monoalkanolamides, in particular C ₈-C ₃₀ fatty acid monoethanolamides or monoisopropanolamides; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils, N- (C ₆- ₂₄ alkyl) glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C ₁₀- ₁₄ alkyl) amine oxides or N- (C ₁₀- ₁₄ acyl) aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type, represented especially by the following general formula (II) :

R ₁O- (R ₂O) _t- (G) _v (II)

in which:

- R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

- R ₂ represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,

- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.

Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula (II) in which:

- R ₁ denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- R ₂ represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.

The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactant is an alkylpolyglucoside surfactant. C ₈/C ₁₆ alkyl polyglycosides 1, 4, and especially decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.

Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company Cognis under the names

(600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or

(818, 1200 and 2000) ; the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Oramix CG 110 and

NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70, or else the products sold by the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK.

Preferably, use is made of C ₈/C ₁₆-alkyl polyglycosides 1, 4, especially as an aqueous 53%solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference

818 UP.

Preferentially, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from (C ₆- ₂₄ alkyl) polyglycosides, and more particularly (C ₈- ₁₈ alkyl) polyglycosides, ethoxylated C ₈-C ₃₀ fatty acid esters of sorbitan, polyethoxylated C ₈-C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylenated C ₈-C ₃₀ fatty acid esters, these compounds preferably containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, and C ₈-C ₃₀ fatty acid alkanolamides such as C ₈-C ₃₀ fatty acid monoalkanolamides, in particular C ₈-C ₃₀ fatty acid monoethanolamides or monoisopropanolamides, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, if exists, the nonionic surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %relative to the total weight of the composition.

Amphoteric surfactant (s)

According to an embodiment, the composition of the present invention may comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant (s) .

The amphoteric surfactant (s) that may be used in the composition according to the present invention may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Among the (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylbetaines, mentions may be made of behenylbetaine, cetyl betaine, cocoylbetaine, decylbetaine. From alkylbetaines, cocoylbetaine is preferred, for example the products sold by the company Rhodia under the tradename

BB/FLA.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, mention may also be made of the products of respective structures (III) and (IV) below:

R _a-CON (Z) CH _2- (CH ₂) _m-N ⁺ (R _b) (R _c) (CH ₂COO ^-) (III)

in which:

R _a represents a C ₁₀-C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,

R _b represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,

R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;

m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;

R _a’ -CON (Z) CH _2- (CH ₂) _m’ -N (B) (B' ) (IV)

in which:

B represents-CH ₂CH ₂OX' , with X' representing-CH ₂-COOH, CH ₂-COOZ’ , -CH ₂CH ₂-COOH, -CH ₂CH ₂-COOZ’ , or a hydrogen atom,

B' represents- (CH ₂) _z-Y' , with z=1 or 2, and Y' representing-COOH, -COOZ’ , -CH ₂-CHOH-SO ₃H or-CH ₂-CHOH-SO ₃Z’ ,

m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group,

Z’ represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine a nd in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane,

R _a' represents a C ₁₀-C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of a n acid R _a'COOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C ₁₇ alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

The compounds corresponding to formula (II I) are preferred.

Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (V) :

R _a” -NH-CH (Y” ) - (CH ₂) n-C (O) -NH- (CH ₂) n’ -N (R _d) (R _e) (V)

in which:

- R _a” represents a C ₁₀-C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of a n acid R _a” -C (O) OH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil;

- Y'’ represents the group–C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ” , -CH ₂-CH (OH) -SO ₃H or the group-CH ₂-CH (OH) -SO ₃-Z” , with Z” representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;

- R _d and R _e represent, independently of each other, a C ₁-C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; and

- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Mention may be made in particular of betaine-based amphoteric surfactant, for example, (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈-C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂-C ₈ alkyl) betaines and (C ₈–C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂-C ₈ alkyl) sulfobetaines.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylbetaines, (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylamido (C ₂-C ₈) alkylbetaines, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoylbetaine, and mixture thereof.

Advantageously, the amphoteric surfactant is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 8 wt. %, and more preferably 2 wt.%to 6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not contain any polymer which brings sticky feeling.

pH adjusting agent

The composition of the present invention has a pH of 3.5-5.0, preferably 3.8.

In order to adjust the pH of the composition according to the present invention, pH adjusting agent can be added.

As examples of pH adjusting agent, mention can be made to citric acid and sodium hydroxide.

The skilled in the art can adjust the amount of the pH adjusting agent as desired.

Aqueous phase

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is an aqueous solution.

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C ₂ to C ₈ lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

The term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glcol and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

The aqueous phase may represent from 30 wt. %to 95 wt. %, better from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %and even better from 30 wt. %to 50 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional ingredient (s)

Optionally, a composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additional ingredients, for example, perfume, preservative, etc.

A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired cosmetic properties and foaming properties for these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for cleansing keratin materials with a pH from 3.5 to 5.0, comprising, in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 6 wt. %to 12 wt. %of at least one amino acid surfactant alaninate surfactants, such as, cocoyl methyl β-alaninate, lauroyl β-alaninate, lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, myristoyl β-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methyl β-alaninate and sodium myristoyl methyl β-alaninate;

b) from 1 wt. %to 6 wt. %of at least one hydroxyl fatty acid comprising one hydroxyl, one carboxyl and 12-24, preferably 14-24 carbon atoms in the main chain;

c) from 3 wt. %to 15 wt. %of at least one organic acid selected from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, salicyclic acid and capryloylsalicylic acid; and

d) from 20 wt. %to 40 wt. %of at least one C ₆-C ₂₄ and especially C ₁₂-C ₂₀ alkylethersulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates, which are oxyethylenated, especially with 3 EO, especially of sodium.

Method and use

The composition according to the present invention can be used for a process for cleansing keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, by being applied to the keratin materials.

The composition according to the invention may be applied by any means enabling a uniform distribution, in particular using a finger, or a cotton ball, a rod, a brush, gauze, or a spatula, and can be removed by rinsing with water.

The composition according to the present invention provides a good cleansing performance during application.

By “good cleansing performance” , it means good foaming (including foaming density and foaming volume size) , and rinse-off ability.

Accordingly, the composition of the invention may be implemented so as to improve the general state of the epidermis, in particular the skin.

Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention relates to a method for cleansing keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of the composition according to the present invention, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.

The present invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.

The percentages are weight percentages by active ingredient, or active matters.

In the examples that follow, the weight percentages are indicated relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Preparation examples

The compositions according to invention formulas (inv. ) and comparative formula (comp. ) comprising the ingredients shown in table 1 were prepared, with all amounts expressed by percentages by weight of active matter with regard to the total weight of each composition.

Table 1

The compositions according to formulas listed above were prepared as follows:

1. Preparing the ingredient (s) of Phase A, heating water to 75℃;

2. Adding the ingredient (s) for Phase B, mixing until homogeneous;

3. Adding the ingredient (s) for Phase C, mixing until homogeneous at75℃;

4. Air-blowing to-0.5kPa;

5. Adding the ingredient (s) for Phase D, slowly mixing until homogeneous (to avoid too much bubble) ;

6. Cooling down to 35℃, air-blowing to-0.9kPa.

7. Adding the ingredient (s) for Phase E (Phase E is pre-prepared) , slowly mixing until homogeneous (to avoid too much bubble) , and air-blowing to-0.91kPa at 30℃.

Example 2: Evaluation of the properties of the composition according to formulas listed above

It was observed that the cosmetic compositions according to invention formulas 1 and 2 have micellar texture, as demonstrated by their white milk-like appearance.

The stability was measured after storage during one month at 4℃, 25℃ (room temperature or RT) , 40℃ or 45℃.

Stability tests were also performed under sun test and during several cycles.

Stability under sun test was performed by leaving the cosmetic composition of the invention in a Suntest CPS+produced by Atlas for 24 hours.

Cycle stability test was performed at a cycle of-20℃ to 20℃ every 24 hours, for 10 days.

The foaming and rinsing ability of the compositions according to invention and comparative formulas listed above were evaluated.

The protocol was as follows:

a. cleansing the palms with cleansing cream;

Wetting palm, placing 1.0 g of the above mentioned compositions on one palm;

b. adding 1g water and then rubbing between palms for 20 cycles;

Adding another 1 g of water; and

c. cubbing between palms for another 20 circles;

d. evaluating volume and density of the foam by simply observing and pressing the foam between palms;

Removing the foam to the back of one hand, rinsing off the foam with water taken by the other hand;

e. evaluating rinsing ability by times of rinsing required to have instant squeaky feeling.

The foaming (including volume and density) and rinsing were scored by the 20 consumers based on the following standards.

The effects on anti-acne, oil-control and skin texture improvement of the compositions according to invention and comparative formulas listed above were evaluated by application of the above formulas for 7 days period by 20 consumers (10 males and 10 females) aged from 18-35 with oily or combination to oily skin, all the consumers have acne, roughness, dullness skin or pore concern which want to be address immediately.

The results of the evaluations are as follows:

N/A: not evaluated.

It can be seen that the compositions according to invention formulas 1 and 2 possess good foaming ability and rinsing ability. In addition, the compositions according to invention formulas 1 and 2 are stable overtime for at least 2 months.

On the other hand, the composition according to comparative formula 1 does not have good foaming ability.

Claims

A composition for cleansing keratin materials with a pH from 3.5 to 5.0, comprising, in an aqueous phase:

a) at least one amino acid surfactant;

b) at least one hydroxyl fatty acid with 10-28 carbon atoms;

c) at least one organic acid different from hydroxyl fatty acid with 10-28 carbon atoms as anti-acne and/or peeling agent; and

d) at least one anionic surfactant other than amino acid surfactant.
The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amino acid surfactant is represented by the formula (I) :

wherein:

Z represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

X is hydrogen or methyl group,

n is 0 or 1,

Y is selected from hydrogen, -CH ₃, -CH (CH ₃) ₂, -CH ₂CH (CH ₃) ₂, -CH (CH ₃) CH ₂CH ₃, -CH ₂C ₆H ₅, -CH ₂C ₂H ₄OH, -CH ₂OH, -CH (OH) CH ₃, - (CH ₂) ₄NH ₂, - (CH ₂) ₃NHC (NH) NH ₂, -CH ₂C (O) O ^-M ⁺, - (CH ₂) ₂C (O) OH, and- (CH ₂) ₂C (O) O ^-M ⁺, and

M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as for example sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amino acid surfactants are salt of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, and any mixture thereof.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amino acid surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 4 wt. %to 16 wt. %, more preferably 6 wt. %to 12 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the hydroxyl fatty acid comprises one hydroxyl, one carboxyl and 12-24, preferably 14-24 carbon atoms in the main chain.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the hydroxyl fatty acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 15 wt.%, more preferably wt. %to 6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the weight ratio of a) the amino acid surfactant and b) the hydroxyl fatty acid with 10-28 carbon atoms of the composition ranges from 1 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the organic acid is from saturated and unsaturated monocarboxylic acids, saturated and unsaturated dicarboxylic acids, saturated and unsaturated tricarboxylic acids; α-hydroxy acids andβ-hydroxy acids of monocarboxylic acids; α-hydroxy acids andβ-hydroxy acids of dicarboxylic acids; α-hydroxy acids andβ-hydroxy acids of tricarboxylic acids; keto acids, α-keto acids, β-keto acids of polycarboxylic acids, of polyhydroxymonocarboxylic acids, of polyhydroxydicarboxylic acids or of polyhydroxytricarboxylic acids; and (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl) acetic acid.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the organic acid is present in an amount ranging from ranging from 1 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 20 wt. %, more preferably from 3 wt. %to 15 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the anionic surfactants other than the amino acid surfactant is selected from alkylsulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the anionic surfactant other than the amino acid surfactant is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 5 wt. %to 45 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 40 wt. %, and more preferably from 20 wt. %to 40 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, further comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈-C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂-C ₈ alkyl) betaines and (C ₈–C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂-C ₈ alkyl) sulfobetaines.
The composition according to claim 12, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount ranging from ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt.%to 8 wt. %, and more preferably 2 wt. %to 6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
A composition for cleansing keratin materials with a pH from 3.5 to 5.0, comprising, in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 6 wt. %to 12 wt. %of at least one amino acid surfactant alaninate surfactants, such as, cocoyl methylβ-alaninate, lauroylβ-alaninate, lauroyl methylβ-alaninate, myristoyl β-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methylβ-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methylβ-alaninate and sodium myristoyl methylβ-alaninate;

b) from 1 wt. %to 6 wt. %of at least one hydroxyl fatty acid comprising one hydroxyl, one carboxyl and 12-24, preferably 14-24 carbon atoms in the main chain;

c) from 3 wt. %to 15 wt. %of at least one organic acid selected from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, salicyclic acid and capryloylsalicylic acid; and

d) from 20 wt. %to 40 wt. %of at least one C ₆-C ₂₄ and especially C ₁₂-C ₂₀ alkylethersulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates, which are oxyethylenated, especially with 3 EO, especially of sodium.
A method for cleansing keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.