WO2020192865A1 - Peptides de plante et leurs utilisations - Google Patents

Peptides de plante et leurs utilisations Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020192865A1
WO2020192865A1 PCT/EP2019/057237 EP2019057237W WO2020192865A1 WO 2020192865 A1 WO2020192865 A1 WO 2020192865A1 EP 2019057237 W EP2019057237 W EP 2019057237W WO 2020192865 A1 WO2020192865 A1 WO 2020192865A1
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peg
sodium
agents
acid
dimethicone
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PCT/EP2019/057237
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English (en)
Inventor
Carolina LOURENÇO
Christiane MORAES
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Symrise Ag
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Priority to PCT/EP2019/057237 priority Critical patent/WO2020192865A1/fr
Publication of WO2020192865A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020192865A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the area of cosmetics and refers to a defined plant peptide fraction obtained from Lupinus Angustifolius, a process for obtaining said fraction, cosmetics comprising the fractions and the use of the fractions for cosmetic purposes.
  • US 4,892,727 discloses a cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical composition
  • LORAL discloses a cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical composition
  • a cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical composition comprises in an appropriate support or vehicle, a powder of sweet lupine seeds essentially free of alkaloids.
  • EP 1373176 B1 (LAB EXPANSCIENCE) refers to an extract from the pods of lupine seeds containing lupeol, more particularly an extract wherein the content thereof by weight is greater than 30 percent, preferably greater than 50 percent, even more advantageously 70-100 percent
  • the invention also relates to a method for obtaining said extract.
  • WO 2006 003110 A1 suggests a process wherein lupine seeds from lupine, for example from Lupinus albus and Lupinus angustifolius, are crushed and trans formed into flakes.
  • lipids oil
  • a suitable solvent prevalently hexane
  • the solvent is then eliminated in controlled tempera ture conditions.
  • lipids can be removed also by extraction with supercritical carbon dioxide.
  • WO 2106 051000 A1 (CONSEJO SUPERIOR INVESTIGACION) relates to a spe cific peptide, isolated in a lupine protein hydrolysate, to the method for the production thereof by means of hydrolysis with alcalase, and to the use there of in the treatment of inflammatory diseases.
  • a first object of the present invention refers to a plant peptide fraction, obtainable or obtained according to the following steps:
  • step (c) subjecting the seeds of step (b) to an extraction to obtain a first peptide fraction
  • step (d) subjecting the first peptide fraction of step (c) to enzymatic hydrolysis;
  • step (e) subjecting the hydrolyzed peptide fraction of step (d) to ultra- or nanofiltration to ob tain a retentate and a permeate, said permeate enriched in peptides showing a mo lecular weight below 2,000 Dalton;
  • step (f) optionally drying the permeate of step (e).
  • the peptide fractions are substantially free of gluten, which means that the gluten content is either zero or less than 100 ppm. While it is possible to provide the fractions as powders, for example via spray-drying or lyophilization of the aqueous permeates, it is more convenient to formulate them as aqueous solutions showing a protein content of from about 1 to about 5 wt.-% and preferably of from 1.5 to 2 wt.-%.
  • Another object of the present invention relates to a process for obtaining a plant peptide fraction, encompassing or consisting of the following steps:
  • step (c) subjecting the seeds of step (b) to an extraction to obtain a first peptide fraction
  • step (d) subjecting the first peptide fraction of step (c) to enzymatic hydrolysis;
  • step (e) subjecting the hydrolyzed peptide fraction of step (d) to ultra- or nanofiltration to ob tain a retentate and a permeate, said permeate enriched in peptide s showing a mo lecular weight below 2,000 Dalton;
  • step (f) optionally drying the permeate of step (e).
  • Lupinus commonly known as lupin or lupine, is a genus of flowering plants in the legume family, Fabaceae. The genus includes over 200 species, with centers of diversity in North and South America. Smaller centers occur in North Africa and the Mediterranean. They are widely cultivated, both as ornamental plants and due to their high protein content as a food source. Some lupines contain certain secondary compounds, including isoflavones and toxic alkaloids, such as lupinine and sparteine. With early detection, these can be re moved through processing, although lupines containing these elements are not usually se lected for food-grade products. In its current circumscription, subgenus Lupinus includes 12 species from the Mediterranean region and Africa with at least four ovules or seed buds in the ovary:
  • the family itself contains more than 1000 subspecies including those where a relia ble taxonomic status is missing.
  • the preferred species according to the present invention is, however, Lupinus angustifolius. EXTRACTION
  • the extracts according to the present invention may be prepared by methods known per se, i.e. for example by aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic extraction of the plants or parts thereof.
  • Suitable extraction processes are any conventional extraction processes, such as maceration, re-maceration, digestion, agitation maceration, vortex extraction, ultra sonic extraction, counter current extraction, percolation, re-percolation, evacolation (ex traction under reduced pressure), diacolation and solid/liquid extraction under continuous reflux.
  • Percolation is advantageous for industrial use.
  • Lupine seeds are preferably used as the starting material and may be mechanically size-reduced before the extraction process. Any size reduction methods known to the expert, for example freeze grinding, may be used.
  • Preferred solvents for the extraction process are organic solvents, water (preferably hot water with a temperature above 80 °C and more particularly above 95 °C or mixtures of organic solvents and water, more particularly low molecular weight alcohols with more or less high water contents. Extraction with water, methanol, ethanol, ethyl acetate and water- containing mixtures thereof is particularly preferred.
  • the extraction process is generally carried out at about 20 to about 100 °C and pref erably at about 50 to about 70 °C.
  • the extraction process is carried out in an inert gas atmosphere to avoid oxidation of the ingredients of the extract. This is particularly important where extraction is carried out at temperatures above 40 °C.
  • the extraction times are selected by the expert in dependence upon the starting material, the extraction process, the extraction temperature and the ratio of solvent to raw material, etc.
  • the crude extracts obtained may optionally be subject ed to other typical steps, such as for example purification, concentration and/or decolora tion.
  • the extracts thus prepared may be subjected, for example, to the selective removal of individual unwanted ingredients.
  • the extraction process may be carried out to any degree, but is usually continued to exhaustion.
  • the peptide fraction obtained from the extraction step is subjected to an enzymatic hydrolysis in order to break down the molecular weight of the peptides, which typically reaches up to 200.000 Dalton.
  • Suitable enzymes encompass peptidases, such as for exam ple:
  • Threonine proteases - using a threonine secondary alcohol
  • Metalloproteases - using a metal usually zinc
  • Hydrolysis can be conducted in acidic, alkaline or neutral medium at a temperature of from about 25 to about 35 °C depending on the specific optimum of the peptidase. Pre ferred are aspartic and serine proteases such as pepsin, chymosin, cathepsin, papain and mixture thereof. Hydrolyzation can take place continuously or batch-wise. A continuous working hydrolyzation reactor is for example disclosed in EP 2907393 A1 (DMK). Hydrolyza tion typically requires 2 to 5 hours to breakdown the polypeptides into oligopeptides having a molecular weight of about 100 to about 20.000 Dalton.
  • the hydrolyzation product is subsequently subjected to an ultra- or nanofiltration step.
  • Ultra- and nanofiltration are filtration processes from the field of membrane technolo gy, with which macromolecular substances and small particles can be separated from a me dium and concentrated.
  • the exclusion limits of ultrafiltration membranes are also given in the form of the NMWC (Nominal Molecular Weight Cut-Off, also MWCO, Molecular Weight Cut Off, Unit: Dalton). It is defined as the minimum molecular mass of globular molecules, 90% of which are retained by the membrane. In practice, the NMWC should be at least 20 % lower than the molecular weight of the molecule to be separated. Further qualitative statements about the filtration can be made on the basis of the flux (water value) (transmembrane flow or passage rate). Ideally, this is proportional to the transmembrane pressure and reciprocally to the membrane resistance. These parameters are determined by the properties of the membrane used as well as by concentration polarization and possible fouling. The penetra tion rate is referred to 1 m2 membrane area. Its unit is l/(m2h bar).
  • Membranes that have a pore diameter in the range of about 1,000 to about 50,000 and preferably about 5,000 to about 25,000 Dalton have proven to be particularly suitable for ultrafiltration. Nanofiltration prefers pore diameters in the range of 100 to 5,000 and preferably about 500 to 2,000 Daltons.
  • the material of the filter surface - both in ultrafiltration and nanofiltration - can be stainless steel, polymer materials, ceramics, aluminum oxide or textile fabrics.
  • filter elements candle filters, flat membranes, and spiral wound mem branes, pocket filters and hollow fiber modules, all of which are basically suitable in the sense of this invention.
  • spiral wound membranes made of polymer materials or candle filters made of ceramics or aluminum oxide are preferably used, whereby the first design has proved to be particularly suitable for ultrafiltration and the second for nanofiltra tion.
  • Both ultrafiltration and nanofiltration can be carried out “hot” or “cold”, i.e. in the temperature range from about 10 to about 60 °C, in the sense of the present invention. It is, however, preferable to work at temperatures in the low range of about 20 to about 30 °C. This means that the temperature range of the invention is “hot” or "cold”.
  • Ultrafiltration and nanofiltration can also be combined; the standard operation, however, is a single nanofiltration.
  • the preferred pore size ranges from about 100 to about 5.000 Dalton.
  • the larger peptides are concentrated in the retentate, the smaller molecules which are desired according to the present invention are found in the permeate.
  • the per meate can be used as such are subjected to a drying process, for example spray-drying or lyophilization to obtain a dry yellowish powder, which can be easily re-dissolved in water.
  • a cosmetic composition preferably a skin care or a hair care composition, comprising the lupine peptide fraction as de scribed infra in a working amount, for example about 0.1 to about 10 % b.w., preferably about 0.5 to about 8 % b.w. and particularly from about 1 to about 5 % b.w. - calculated on the composition(s).
  • the skin care or hair care composition may represent for example a cosmetic cream, lotion, spray, emulsion, ointment, gel or mouse and the like.
  • Typical exam ples are hair shampoos, hair conditioners and corresponding "2-in-l" products.
  • the preparations according to the invention may contain antidandruff agents, irrita tion-preventing agents, irritation-inhibiting agents, antioxidants, adstringents, perspiration- inhibiting agents, antiseptic agents, ant-statics, binders, buffers, carrier materials, chelating agents, cell stimulants, cleansing agents, care agents, deodorizing agents, antiperspirants, softeners, emulsifiers, enzymes, essential oils, fibres, film-forming agents, fixatives, foam forming agents, foam stabilizers, substances for preventing foaming, foam boosters, gelling agents, gel-forming agents, hair care agents, hair-setting agents, hair-straightening agents, moisture-donating agents, moisturizing substances, moisture-retaining substances, bleach ing agents, strengthening agents, stain-removing agents, optically brightening agents, im pregnating agents, dirt-repellent agents, friction-reducing agents, lubricants, moisturizing creams, ointments, opacifying agents, plastic
  • compositions according to the present invention comprise:
  • compositions are substantially free of paraben preservatives, which mean that the content of para bens is either zero or less than 100 ppm.
  • auxiliaries and additives are anionic and/or amphoteric or zwitterionic sur factants.
  • Non-ionic and cationic surfactants can be also present in the composition. Suitable examples are mentioned along with the paragraph dealing with emulsifiers.
  • Typical examples for anionic and zwitterionic surfactants encompass: Almondami- dopropylamine Oxide, Almondamidopropyl Betaine, Aminopropyl Laurylglutamine, Ammo nium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate, Ammonium C12-16 Alkyl Sulfate, Ammonium Capryleth Sulfate, Ammonium Cocomonoglyceride Sulfate, Ammonium Coco-Sulfate, Ammonium Cocoyl Isethionate, Ammonium Cocoyl Sarcosinate, Ammonium C12-15 Pareth Sulfate, Ammonium C9-10 Perfluoroalkylsulfonate, Ammonium Dinonyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Dodecylben- zenesulfonate, Ammonium Isostearate, Ammonium Laureth-6 Carboxylate, Ammonium Lau- reth-8 Carboxylate, Ammonium
  • the percentage content of surfactants in the preparations may be from 0.1 to 10% by weight and is preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the preparation.
  • composition may also contain oil bodies, also called lipids such as for example:
  • Q.1 is a linear or branched alkyl radical having 6 to 24 C atoms and Ch is a linear or branched alkyl radical having 4 to 16 C atoms.
  • An oil phase or oil component in the narrower (and preferred) sense of the present invention i.e. of the inventively limited substances or substances present only in a minor fraction, encompasses the following groups of substances:
  • silicone oils from the group of the cyclotrisiloxanes, cyclopentasiloxanes, dime- thylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysilox- anes and hybrid forms thereof;
  • An oil phase in the narrowest (and most preferred) sense of the present invention encompasses the following groups of substances:
  • Particularly preferred components of type (i) in the oil phase are as follows: isopro pyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n- hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, isotridecyl isononanoate, 2-ethy
  • Fatty acid triglycerides may also be in the form of, or in the form of a constituent of, synthetic, semisynthetic and/or natural oils, ex amples being olive oil, sunflower oil, soya oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and mixtures thereof.
  • Particularly preferred oil components of type (vii) in the oil phase are as follows: 2-butyl-l-octanol, 2-hexyl-l-decanol, 2-octyl-l-dodecanol, 2-decyltetradecanol, 2-dodecyl- 1-hexadecanol and 2-tetradecyl-l-octadecanol.
  • Particularly preferred oil components in the oil phase are mixtures comprising Ci 2 -Ci 5 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures comprising Ci 2 -Cis-alkyl ben zoate and isotridecyl isononanoate, mixtures comprising Ci 2 -Cis-alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate, mixtures comprising cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, and mixtures comprising cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isos tearate.
  • Preferred oil bodies which form constituents of the O/W emulsions, are, for exam ple, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon at oms, esters of linear C 6 -C 22 -fatty acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 -fatty alcohols or esters of branched C 6 -C 13 -carboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 -fatty alcohols, such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, cetyl my
  • esters of linear C 6 -C 22 -fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol
  • esters of Cis- C38- alkylhydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22-fatty alcohols in particular Dioctyl Malate
  • esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols such as, for example, propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol
  • Guerbet alcohols triglyc erides based on C 6 -Cio-fatty acids, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18- fatty acids
  • esters of C 6 - C22-fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids in particular benzoic acid
  • Fin- solv ® TN linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 car bon atoms per alkyl group, such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol ® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicone methicone grades, etc.) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • dicaprylyl ether Cetiol ® OE
  • silicone oils cyclomethicones, silicone methicone grades, etc.
  • aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • non-ionic or cationic surfactants may also be added to the preparations as emulsifiers, including for example:
  • polyol esters and, in particular, polyglycerol esters such as, for example, polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate isos tearate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes are also suitable;
  • the addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or onto castor oil are known commercially available products. They are homo- logue mixtures of which the average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio be tween the quantities of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C 12 / 18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide onto glycerol are known as lipid layer enhancers for cosmetic formulations.
  • the preferred emulsifiers are described in more detail as follows:
  • Partial glycerides Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isos tearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid mono glyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglycer ide, citric acid diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and technical mixtures thereof which
  • Sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan ses- quiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan ses- quierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan ses- quiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorb
  • Polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl- 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls ® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (Lameform ® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan ® Gl 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan ® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care ® 450), Poly- glyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Beilina ® ), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane ® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor ® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyric
  • polystyrene resin examples include the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylol propane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, cocofatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide.
  • Cationically active surfactants comprise the hydropho bic high molecular group required for the surface activity in the cation by dissociation in aqueous solution.
  • a group of important representatives of the cationic surfactants are the tetraalkyl ammonium salts of the general formula: (R 1 R 2 R 3 R 4 N + ) X .
  • R1 stands for Ci-Cs alk(en)yl, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 , independently of each other, for alk(en)yl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • X is a counter ion, preferably selected from the group of the halides, alkyl sulfates and alkyl carbonates.
  • Cationic surfactants, in which the nitrogen group is substitut ed with two long acyl groups and two short alk(en)yl groups are particularly preferred.
  • Esterquats A further class of cationic surfactants particularly useful as co-surfactants for the present invention is represented by the so-called esterquats.
  • Esterquats are general ly understood to be quaternised fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. These are known compounds which can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemis try. Reference is made in this connection to International patent application WO 91/01295 Al, according to which triethanolamine is partly esterified with fatty acids in the presence of hypophosphorous acid, air is passed through the reaction mixture and the whole is then quaternised with dimethyl sulphate or ethylene oxide.
  • German patent DE 4308794 Cl describes a process for the production of solid esterquats in which the quater- nisation of triethanolamine esters is carried out in the presence of suitable dispersants, preferably fatty alcohols.
  • esterquats suitable for use in accordance with the invention are products of which the acyl component derives from monocarboxylic acids corresponding to formula RCOOH in which RCO is an acyl group containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and the amine component is triethanolamine (TEA).
  • monocarboxylic acids are ca- proic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid and technical mixtures thereof such as, for example, so- called head-fractionated fatty acid.
  • Esterquats of which the acyl component derives from monocarboxylic acids containing 8 to 10 carbon atoms are preferably used.
  • ester quats are those of which the acyl component derives from dicarboxylic acids like malonic acid, succinic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, glutaric acid, sorbic acid, pimelic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid and/or dodecanedioic acid, but preferably adipic acid.
  • esterquats of which the acyl component derives from mixtures of monocarboxylic acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and adipic acid are preferably used.
  • the molar ratio of mono and dicar boxylic acids in the final esterquat may be in the range from 1:99 to 99:1 and is preferably in the range from 50:50 to 90:10 and more particularly in the range from 70:30 to 80:20.
  • other suitable esterquats are quaternized ester salts of mono-/dicarboxylic acid mixtures with diethanolalkyamines or 1,2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines.
  • the esterquats may be obtained both from fatty acids and from the corresponding triglycerides in admixture with the corresponding dicarboxylic acids.
  • composition further comprises emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of:
  • Superfatting agents may be selected from such substances as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fat ty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acid alkanolamides also serving as foam stabilizers.
  • the consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols con taining 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids.
  • a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and/or polyglycerol poly-12- hydroxystea rates is preferably used.
  • Suitable thickeners are polymeric thickeners, such as Aerosil ® types (hydrophilic sili cas), polysaccharides, more especially xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and ty loses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, also relatively high molecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for exam ple Carbopols ® [Goodrich] or Synthalens ® [Sigma]), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, for example pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane, nar row-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates and electrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammoni um chloride.
  • Aerosil ® types hydrophilic
  • Suitable polymers to improve the spreadibility of the composition upon the skin or hair, or improve the water and or sweat and or rub-off resistancy of the formula and to im prove the protection factor of the composition are : VP/Eicosene copolymers sold under the trade name of Antaron V-220 by International Spe ciality Products, VP/Hexadecene copolymer sold under the trade names Antaron V-216 and Antaron V-516 by International Speciality Products, Tricontanyl PVP sold under the trade name of Antaron WP-660 by International Speciality Products, Isohexadecane and Eth ylene/Propylene/Styrene copolymer and Butylene/Styrene copolymer sold under the trade names of Versagel MC and MD by Penreco, Hydrogenated polyisobutene and Eth ylene/Propylene/Styrene copolymer and Butylene/Styrene copolymer
  • the amount of polymers used to obtain the desired effect in the formulation range from 0.10% to 5.0% by weight of the composition and especially in the range from 0.25% to 3.0% by weight of the composition.
  • Suitable pearlising waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides, especially cocofatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxy- substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fatty compounds, such as for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates which contain in all at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearylether; fatty acids, such as stearic acid, hy- droxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyols con ta
  • Suitable silicones can be chosen from the group consisting of: Acefylline Methylsi- lanol Mannuronate, Acetylmethionyl Methylsilanol Elastinate Acrylates/Behenyl, Acry- late/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Behenyl Methacrylate/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Acry- lates/Dimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates/Dimethicone Methacrylate/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Dimethiconol Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acry- late/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Octylacrylamide/Diphenyl Amodime
  • silicones to be contained in the mixture according to the inven tions are Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane and Cyclo pentasiloxane.
  • Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane and Cyclo pentasiloxane are Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane and Cyclo pentasiloxane.
  • waxes may also be present in the preparations, more espe cially natural waxes such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espar- tograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat, ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes and microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as, for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol wax es.
  • candelilla wax carnauba wax, Japan wax, espar- tograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax
  • Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminium and/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.
  • compositions may contain 1,2-alkanediols having to 12 carbonatoms, such as 1,2-pentane diol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,2- decanediol, a mixture of 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol, a mixture of 1,2-hexanediol and
  • 1.2-octanediol and 1,2-decanediol preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to about 10 and pref erably from about 1 to about 8 percent by weight.
  • compositions may also encompass fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 C atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols here can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched. Furthermore, these fatty alcohols can in some cases be part of the oil phase (III) if they correspond to the definition given there.
  • Alcohols which can be employed are, for example, decanol, decenol, octanol, octenol, dodecanol, dodecenol, octadienol, decadienol, dodecadienol, oleyl alco hol, ricinoleyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and also Guerbet alcohols thereof, such as, for exam ple, 2-octyl-l-dodecanol, it being possible for the list to be extended virtually as desired by further alcohols of related structural chemistry.
  • the fatty alcohols preferably originate from natural fatty acids, being conventionally prepared from the corresponding esters of the fat ty acids by reduction.
  • Fatty alcohol fractions which are formed by reduction from naturally occurring fats and fatty oils, such as beef tallow, peanut oil, colza oil, cottonseed oil, soya oil, sunflower oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, maize oil, castor oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, cacao butter and coconut fat, can further be employed.
  • Primary sun protection factors in the context of the invention are, for example, or ganic substances (light filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and of releasing the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat.
  • the formulations according to the invention advantageously contain at least one UV- A filter and/or at least one UV-B filter and/or a broadband filter and/or at least one inorgan ic pigment.
  • Formulations according to the invention preferably contain at least one UV-B filter or a broadband filter, more particularly preferably at least one UV-A filter and at least one UV-B filter.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions preferably topical formulations according to the present invention comprise one, two, three or more sun protection factors selected from the group consistiung of 4-aminobenzoic acid and derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, ben- zophenone derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, diphenyl acrylates, 3-imidazol-4-yl acrylic acid and esters thereof, benzofuran derivatives, benzylidene malonate derivatives, polymeric UV absorbers containing one or more organosilicon radicals, cinnamic acid deriva tives, camphor derivatives, trianilino-s-triazine derivatives, 2-hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid derivatives and salts thereof, anthranilic acid menthyl esters, benzotriazole derivativesand indole derivatives.
  • sun protection factors selected from the group consistiung of 4-aminobenzoic acid
  • UV filters cited below which can be used within the context of the present in vention are preferred but naturally are not limiting.
  • UV filters which are preferably used are selected from the group consisting of
  • beta-imidazole-4(5)-acrylic acid (urocanic acid)
  • Broadband filters which are preferably combined with one or more compounds of formula (I) in a preparation according to the present invention are selected from the group consisting of
  • compositions can comprise further typical detergent and cleansing composition ingredients such as UV-A filters filters which are preferably combined with one or more compounds of formula (I) in a preparation according to the present invention are selected from the group consisting of
  • compositions can comprise further typical detergent and cleansing composition ingredients such as UV filters which are more preferably combined with one or more com pounds of formula (I) in a preparation according to the present invention are selected from the group consisting of
  • menthyl anthranilate (Neo Heliopan ® MA)
  • these preparations contain at least one UVA filter and/or at least one UVB filter and/or at least one inorganic pigment.
  • the preparations may be present here in various forms such as are conventionally used for sun protection prepa rations. Thus, they may be in form of a solution, an emulsion of the water-in-oil type (W/O) or of the oil-in-water type (O/W) or a multiple emulsion, for example of the water-in-oil-in- water type (W/O/W), a gel, a hydrodispersion, a solid stick or else an aerosol.
  • a formulation according to the invention contains a total amount of sunscreen agents, i.e. in particular UV filters and/or inorganic pigments (UV filtering pigments) so that the formulation according to the invention has a light protec tion factor of greater than or equal to 2 (preferably greater than or equal to 5).
  • sunscreen agents i.e. in particular UV filters and/or inorganic pigments (UV filtering pigments) so that the formulation according to the invention has a light protec tion factor of greater than or equal to 2 (preferably greater than or equal to 5).
  • UV filters and/or inorganic pigments UV filtering pigments
  • Secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is initiated when UV rays penetrate into the skin.
  • Typical examples are amino acids (for example gly cine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- carnosine and derivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (for exam ple alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, liponic acid and derivatives thereof (for example dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxine, glutathione, cysteine,
  • amino acids for example gly cine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane
  • Advantageous inorganic secondary light protection factors are pigments, preferably inorganic pigments based on finely disperse metal oxides and/or other metal compounds which are insoluble or sparingly soluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (T1O2), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe203), zirconium (Zr0 2 ), silicon (S1O2), manganese (e.g. MnO), alumi num (AI2O3), cerium (e.g. Ce Os), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals, and mixtures of such oxides.
  • These pigments are X-ray-amorphous or non-X-ray-amorphous.
  • X-ray- amorphous oxide pigments are metal oxides or semi-metal oxides which reveal no or no recognizable crystalline structure in X-ray diffraction experiments. Such pigments are often obtainable by flame reaction, for example by reacting a metal or semi-metal halide with hydrogen and air (or pure oxygen) in a flame.
  • X-ray-amorphous oxide pigments are used as thickeners and thixotropic agents, flow auxiliaries for emulsion and dispersion stabilization and as carrier substance (for example for increasing the volume of finely divided powders).
  • X-ray-amorphous oxide pigments which are known and often used in cosmetic or dermatological galenics are, for example, high-purity silicon oxide. Preference is given to high-purity, X-ray-amorphous silicon dioxide pigments with a particle size in the range from 5 to 40 nm and an active surface area (BET) in the range from 50 to 400 m 2 /g, preferably 150 to 300 m 2 /g, where the particles are to be regarded as spherical particles of very uniform dimension. Macroscopically, the silicon diox ide pigments are recognizable as loose, white powders. Silicon dioxide pigments are sold commercially under the name Aerosil ® (CAS-No. 7631-85-9) or Carb-O-Sil
  • Aerosil ® grades are, for example, Aerosil ® 0X50, Aerosil ® 130, Aerosil ® 150, Aerosil ® 200, Aerosil ® 300, Aerosil ® 380, AerosifMQX 80, Aerosil ® MOX 170, AerosifCOK 84, Aerosil ® R 202, AerosifR 805, AerosifR 812, AerosifR 972, AerosifR 974, Aerosil ® R976.
  • compositions according to the present invention can comprise 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 1 to 5% by weight, basend on the total weight of the compositions, of X-ray-amorphous oxide pigments.
  • the non-X-ray-amorphous inorganic pigments are, according to the present inven tion, advantageously in hydrophobic form, i.e. have been surface-treated to repel water.
  • This surface treatment may involve providing the pigments with a thin hydrophobic layer by processes known per se. Such a process involves, for example, producing the hydrophobic surface layer by a reaction according to
  • n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used as desired, and R and R' are the desired organic radicals.
  • Hydrophobic pigments prepared analogously to DE-A 33 14 742, for example, are advantageous.
  • the total amount of inorganic pigments, in particular hydrophobic inorganic micro pigments, in the finished cosmetic, dermatological and pharmacological composition ac cording to the invention can be advantageously chosen from the range from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions.
  • antioxidants in the compositions of the present invention are all antioxidants customary or suitable for cosmetic, dermatological and phar macological preparations.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously chosen from the group of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g.
  • thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and the glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, g-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and salts thereof, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodi- propionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts), and sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthionine sul- foximines in very low tolerated doses (e.g. pmol to mh ⁇ qI/kg), and also (metal) chelating agents (e.g. cc-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), cc-hydroxy acids (e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, cc-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, car- nosine, butylhydroxy-toluene, butylhydroxyanisol, nordihydroguaiacic acid, nordihydroguai- aretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and deriv atives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (e.g. ZnO, ZnS04), selenium and derivatives thereof (e.g.
  • stilbenes and derivatives thereof e.g. stilbene oxide, trans- stilbene oxide
  • derivatives salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids
  • derivatives of acetophenone such as Hydroxyacetophenone and its blends with Phenoxyethanol and/or, pentane 1,2 diol and/or hexane 1,2 diol and/or caprylyl 1,2 diol, are suitable according to the present invention.
  • the amount of the above-mentioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the composition is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, and most preferably 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention may advantageously also comprise vitamins and vitamin precursors, it being possible for all the vitamins and vit amin precursors which are suitable or usual for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications to be used.
  • vitamins and vitamin precursors such as tocopherols, vitamin A, niacin acid and niacinamide
  • further vitamins of the B com plex in particular biotin, and vitamin C and panthenol and derivatives thereof, in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol, and cationically derivatized panthenols, such as pan thenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and the monoacetate thereof and cationic panthenol derivatives.
  • vitamin E and/or derivatives thereof represent the antioxidant(s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A de rivatives, or carotenes or derivatives thereof represent the antioxidant(s)
  • compositions may also include plant extracts, which are conventionally prepared by extraction of the whole plant, but also in individual cases exclusively from blossom and/or leaves, wood, bark or roots of the plant.
  • plant extracts which are listed in the table starting on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the Leitfaden Kunststoff Kunststoffdeklaration kosmetischer Mittel [Manual of Declaration of the Constituents of Cosmetic Compositions], published by Indus- trie negligence Korpernostistoff und Waschstoff e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.
  • Extracts which are advantageous in particular are those from aloe, witch hazel, algae, oak bark, rose-bay wil low-herb, stinging nettle, dead nettle, hops, chamomile, yarrow, arnica, calendula, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden blossom, almond, pine needle, horse chestnut, sandal wood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, orange, lemon, lime, grapefruit, apple, green tea, grapefruit pip, wheat, oats, barley, sage, thyme, wild thyme, rosemary, birch, mallow, lady's smock, willow bark, restharrow, coltsfoot, hibiscus, ginseng and ginger root.
  • the extracts from aloe vera, chamomile, algae, rosemary, calendula, ginseng, cucumber, sage, stinging nettle, linden blossom, arnica and witch hazel are particu larly preferred. Mixtures of two or more plant extracts can also be employed. Extraction agents which can be used for the preparation of plant extracts mentioned are, inter alia, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof. In this context, among the alcohols lower alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, but also polyhydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol, pro pylene glycol and butylene glycol, are preferred, and in particular both as the sole extraction agent and in mixtures with water. The plant extracts can be employed both in pure and in diluted form.
  • skin lightening ingredients which can be used are for example but not limited to the following : kojic acid (5-hydroxy-2-hydroxymethyl-4- pyranone), kojic acid derivatives such as for example kojic dipalmitate, arbutin, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, hydroquinone, hydroquinone derivatives, styryl resorcinol derivatives (e.g. 4-(l-phenylethyl)l,3-benzenediol), molecules containing sulphur, such as glutathione or cysteine for example, alpha-hydroxy acids (e.g.
  • kojic acid 5-hydroxy-2-hydroxymethyl-4- pyranone
  • kojic acid derivatives such as for example kojic dipalmitate
  • arbutin ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives
  • hydroquinone hydroquinone derivatives
  • styryl resorcinol derivatives e.g. 4-(l-phenyleth
  • alpha-hydroxy fatty acids palmitic acid, phytic acid, lac- toferrin, humic acid, gallic acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin), retinoids, soja milk, soya extract, serine protease inhibitors or lipoic acid or other synthetic or natural active com pounds for skin and hair lightening, these compounds also being used in the form of an ex tract from plants, such as bearberry extract, rice extract, papaya extract, liquorice root ex tract or constituents concentrated from these, such as glabridin or licochalcone A, Artocar- pus extract, extract from Rumex and Ramulus species, extracts from pine species (Pinus) and extracts from Vitis species or stilbene derivatives concentrated from these, extract from saxifraga, mulberry, Scutelleria and/or grapes.
  • an ex tract from plants such as bearberry extract, rice extract, papaya extract, liquorice root ex tract or constituents concentrated from these, such as glabri
  • Preferred active ingredients for hair lightening are selected from the group consist ing of: kojic acid (5-hydroxy-2-hydroxymethyl-4-pyranone), kojic acid derivatives, preferably kojic acid dipalmitate, arbutin, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, preferably magnesi um ascorbyl phosphate, hydroquinone, hydroquinone derivatives, resorcinol, resorcinol de rivatives, preferably 4-alkylresorcinols and 4-(l-phenylethyl)l,3-dihydroxybenzene (phe- nylethyl resorcinol), cyclohexylcarbamates (preferably one or more cyclohexyl carbamates disclosed in WO 2010/122178 and WO 2010/097480), sulfur-containing molecules, prefera bly glutathione or cysteine, alpha-hydroxy acids (preferably citric acid, lactic acid, malic ac
  • Advantageous skin and hair tanning active ingredients in this respect are substrates or substrate analogues of tyrosinase such as L-tyrosine, N-acetyl tyrosine, L-DOPA or L- dihydroxyphenylalanine, xanthine alkaloids such as caffeine, theobromine and theophyl-line and derivatives thereof, proopiomelanocortin peptides such as ACTH, alpha-MSH, peptide analogues thereof and other substances which bind to the melanocortin receptor, peptides such as Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Lys-lle- Gly-Arg-Lys or Leu-lle-Gly-Lys, purines, pyrimidines, folic acid, copper salts such as copper gluconate, chloride or pyrrolidonate, 1,3,4-oxadiazole- 2-thiols such as 5-pyrazin-2-yl-
  • Flavonoids which bring about skin and hair tinting or brown-ing (e.g. quercetin, rham- netin, kaempferol, fisetin, genistein, daidzein, chrysin and api-genin, epicatechin, diosmin and diosmetin, morin, quercitrin, naringenin, hesperidin, phloridzin and phloretin) can also be used.
  • brown-ing e.g. quercetin, rham- netin, kaempferol, fisetin, genistein, daidzein, chrysin and api-genin, epicatechin, diosmin and diosmetin, morin, quercitrin, naringenin, hesperidin, phloridzin and phloretin
  • the amount of the aforementioned examples of additional active ingredients for the modulation of skin and hair pigmentation (one or more compounds) in the products accord ing to the invention is then preferably 0.00001 to 30 wt.%, preferably 0.0001 to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Formulations and products according to the present invention may also comprise one or more hair growth activators, i.e. agents to stimulate hair growth.
  • Hair growth activa tors are preferably selected from the group consisting of pyrimidine derivatives such as 2,4- diaminopyrimidine-3-oxide (Aminexil), 2,4-diamino-6-piperidinopyrimidine-3-oxide (Minox idil) and derivatives thereof, 6-amino-l,2-dihydro-l-hydroxy-2-imino-4-piperidinopyrimidine and its derivatives, xanthine alkaloids such as caffeine, theobromine and theophylline and derivatives thereof, quercetin and derivatives, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin) and derivatives, potassium channel openers, antiandrogenic agents, synthetic or natural 5-reductase inhibi tors, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopheryl nicotinate, benzyl nicotinate
  • formulations and products according to the present invention may comprise one or more hair growth inhibitors (as described above), i.e. agents to reduce or prevent hair growth.
  • Hair growth inhibitors are preferably selected from the group consist ing of activin, activin derivatives or activin agonists, ornithine decarboxylase inhibitors such as alpha-difluoromethylornithine or pentacyclic triterpenes like for example ursolic acid, betulin, betulinic acid, oleanolic acid and derivatives thereof, 5alpha-reductase inhibitors, androgen receptor antagonists, S-adenosylmethionine decarboxylase inhibitors, gamma- glutamyl transpeptidase inhibitors, transglutaminase inhibitors, soybean-derived serine pro tease inhibitors, extracts from microorganisms, algae, different microalgae or plants and plant parts of for example the families Leguminosae,
  • compositions may also contain one or more substances with a physiological cooling effect (cooling agents), which are preferably selected here from the following list: menthol and menthol derivatives (for example L-menthol, D-menthol, racemic menthol, isomenthol, neoisomenthol, neomenthol) menthylethers (for example (l-menthoxy)-l,2- propandiol, (l-menthoxy)-2-methyl-l,2-propandiol, l-menthyl-methylether), menthylesters (for example menthylformiate, menthylacetate, menthylisobutyrate, menthyllactates, L- menthyl-L-lactate, L-menthyl-D-lactate, menthyl-(2-methoxy)acetate, menthyl-(2- methoxyethoxy)acetate, menthylpyroglutamate), menthylcarbonates (for example L-menthol
  • compositions may also comprise active anti-inflammatory and/or redness- and/or itching-alleviating compounds (anti-irritants). All the active anti-inflammatory or redness- and/or itching-alleviating compounds which are suitable or usual for cosmetic, dermatological and pharmacological compositions can be used here.
  • Active anti inflammatory and redness- and/or itching-alleviating compounds which are advantageously employed are steroidal anti-inflammatory substances of the corticosteroid type, such as hydrocortisone, dexamethasone, dexamethasone phosphate, methylprednisolone or corti sone, it being possible for the list to be extended by addition of further steroidal anti inflammatories.
  • Non-steroidal anti-inflammatories can also be employed.
  • oxicams such as piroxicam or tenoxicam
  • salicylates such as aspirin, Disalcid, Solprin or fendosal
  • acetic acid derivatives such as diclofenac, fen- clofenac, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin, or clindanac
  • fenamates such as mefenamic, meclofenamic, flufenamic or niflumic
  • propionic acid derivatives such as ibuprofen, naprox en, benoxaprofen or pyrazoles, such as phenylbutazone, oxyphenylbutazone, febrazone or azapropazone.
  • Plant extracts specific highly active plant extract fractions and highly pure active substances isolated from plant extracts can be employed. Extracts, frac tions and active substances from chamomile, aloe vera, Commiphora species, Rubia species, willow, rose-bay willow-herb, oats, and also pure substances, such as, inter alia, bisabolol, apigenin 7-glucoside, boswellic acid, phytosterols, glycyrrhizic acid, glabridin or licochalcone A, are particularly preferred.
  • compositions of the present invention can also comprise mixtures of two or more active anti-inflammatory compounds.
  • Bisabolol, boswellic acid, and also extracts and isolated highly pure active compounds from oats and Echinacea are par ticularly preferred for use in the context of the invention as anti-inflammatory and redness- and/or itching-alleviating substances, and alpha-bisabolol and extracts and isolated highly pure active compounds from oats are especially preferred.
  • Preferred anti-inflammatory agents may be selected from the group formed by:
  • steroidal anti-inflammatory substances of the corticosteroid type in particular hy drocortisone, hydrocortisone derivatives such as hydrocortisone 17-butyrate, dexa- methasone, dexamethasone phosphate, methylprednisolone or cortisone,
  • non-steroidal anti-inflammatory substances in particular oxicams such as piroxicam or tenoxicam, salicylates such as aspirin, disalcid, solprin or fendosal, acetic acid de rivatives such as diclofenac, fenclofenac, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin or clin- danac, fenamates such as mefenamic, meclofenamic, flufenamic or niflumic, propi onic acid derivatives such as ibuprofen, naproxen or benoxaprofen, pyrazoles such as phenylbutazone, oxyphenylbutazone, febrazone or azapropazone,
  • oxicams such as piroxicam or tenoxicam
  • salicylates such as aspirin, disalcid, solprin or fendosal
  • acetic acid de rivatives such as diclofenac, fen
  • histamine receptor antagonists include serine protease inhibitors (e.g. of Soy extracts), TRPV1 antagonists (e.g. 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol), NK1 antagonists (e.g. Aprepitant, Hy- droxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid), cannabinoid receptor agonists (e.g. Palmitoyl Ethanolamine) and TRPV3 antagonists.
  • serine protease inhibitors e.g. of Soy extracts
  • TRPV1 antagonists e.g. 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol
  • NK1 antagonists e.g. Aprepitant, Hy- droxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
  • cannabinoid receptor agonists e.g. Palmitoyl Ethanolamine
  • TRPV3 antagonists e.g. Palmitoyl Ethanolamine
  • the amount of anti-irritants (one or more compounds) in the composition is prefer ably 0.0001% to 20% by weight, with particular preference 0.0001% to 10% by weight, in particular 0.001% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Suitable anti-microbial agents are, in principle, all substances effective against Gram positive bacteria, such as, for example, 4- hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N-(4- chlorophenyl)-N'-(3,4- dichlorophenyl)urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3, 5-dimethyl-phenol, 2,2'-methylenebis(6-bromo-4- chlorophenol), 3- methyl-4-(l-methylethyl)phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chloro-phenol, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-l,2- propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, oil of cloves, menthol, mint oil,
  • Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates, such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and, in particular, triethyl citrate (Hydagen CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity, thereby reducing the formation of odour.
  • esterase inhibitors such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and, in particular, triethyl citrate (Hydagen CAT).
  • esterase in hibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof, such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycar- boxylic acids and esters thereof, such as, for example, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate, and zinc glycinate.
  • sterol sulfates or phosphates such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate
  • dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof such as, for example, glutaric acid, mono
  • Suitable odour absorbers are substances which are able to absorb and largely retain odour-forming compounds. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components, thus also reducing their rate of diffusion. It is important that perfumes must remain unim paired in this process. Odour absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They comprise, for example, as main constituent, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or specific, largely odour-neutral fragrances which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixatives", such as, for example, extracts of labdanum or styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives.
  • the odour masking agents are fragrances or perfume oils, which, in addition to their function as odour masking agents, give the deodorants their respective fragrance note.
  • Perfume oils which may be mentioned are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches, and resins and balsams. Also suitable are animal products, such as, for example, civet and castoreum.
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol, and hydrocarbon type.
  • Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert- butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl for mate, allyl cyclohexylpropionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
  • Essential oils of rela tively low volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as per fume oils, e.g. sage oil, camomile oil, oil of cloves, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden flower oil, juniperberry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • Suitable astringent antiperspirant active ingredients are primarily salts of aluminium, zirconium or of zinc.
  • suitable antihydrotic active ingredients are, for example, alumini um chloride, aluminium chlorohydrate, aluminium dichlorohydrate, aluminium sesquichlo- rohydrate and complex compounds thereof, e.g. with 1,2- propylene glycol, aluminium hy- droxyallantoinate, aluminium chloride tartrate, aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate, alu minium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate and com plex compounds thereof, e.g. with amino acids, such as glycine.
  • Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quater- nized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof and similar compounds.
  • Suitable antidandruff agents are Octopirox ® /Pirocton Olamin (l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(lH)-pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Crinipan ® AD (Climba- zole), Ketoconazol (4-acetyl-l- ⁇ 4-[2-(2,4-dichlorophenyl) r-2-(lH-imidazol-l-ylmethyl)-l,3- dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl ⁇ -piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, colloi dal sulfur, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate, sul fur tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid, monoethanolamide sulfosucc
  • Preferred cosmetics carrier materials are solid or liquid at 25°C and 1013 mbar (in cluding highly viscous substances) as for example glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2- butylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, ethanol, water and mixtures of two or more of said liquid carrier materials with water.
  • these preparations ac cording to the invention may be produced using preservatives or solubilizers.
  • Other pre ferred liquid carrier substances which may be a component of a preparation according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of oils such as vegetable oil, neutral oil and mineral oil.
  • Preferred solid carrier materials which may be a component of a preparation ac cording to the invention are hydrocolloids, such as starches, degraded starches, chemically or physically modified starches, dextrins, (powdery) maltodextrins (preferably with a dex trose equivalent value of 5 to 25, preferably of 10 - 20), lactose, silicon dioxide, glucose, modified celluloses, gum arabic, ghatti gum, traganth, karaya, carrageenan, pullulan, cur- dlan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar flour, carob bean flour, alginates, agar, pectin and inu- lin and mixtures of two or more of these solids, in particular maltodextrins (preferably with a dextrose equivalent value of 15 - 20), lactose, silicon dioxide and/or glucose.
  • hydrocolloids such as starches, degraded starches, chemically or physically modified star
  • hydrotropes for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols
  • Suitable polyols preferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols may contain other functional groups, more especially amino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
  • alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average mo lecular weight of 100 to 1000 Dalton;
  • methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol ethane, trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
  • lower alkyl glucosides particularly those containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl glucoside;
  • sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms for example sorbitol or mannitol
  • sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms for example glucose or sucrose
  • dialcoholamines such as diethanolamine or 2-aminopropane-l,3-diol.
  • Preferred moist retention regulators encompass sodium lactate, urea, alcohols, sor bitol, glycerol, propylene glycol, aliphatic 1,2-diols with a C number of 5-10, collagen, elastin or hyaluronic acid, diacyl adipates, petrolatum, ectoin, urocanic acid, lecithin, panthenol, phytantriol, lycopene, algae extract, ceramides, cholesterol, glycolipids, chitosan, chon- Georgiain sulphate, polyamino acids and polyamino sugars, lanolin, lanolin esters, amino acids, alpha-hydroxy acids (e.g.
  • citric acid lactic acid, malic acid
  • sugars e.g. inositol
  • alpha-hydroxy fatty acids e.g. 1,3-bis(trimethyl)
  • phytosterols e.g. 1,3-bis(trimethyl)
  • triterpene acids such as betulinic acid or ursolic acid
  • algae extracts
  • Suitable preservatives which are preferably chosen here are those such as benzoic acid, its esters and salts, propionic acid and its salts, salicylic acid and its salts,
  • 1.6-bis(4-amidinophenoxy)-n-hexane and its salts glutaraldehyde, 5-ethyl-l-aza-3,7- dioxabicyclo[3.3.0]octane, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-l, 2-propanediol, hyamines, alkyl-(Cs-Cis)- dimethylbenzylammonium chloride, alkyHCs-CisJ-dimethylbenzylammonium bromide, alkyl- (Cs-CisJ-dimethylbenzyl-ammonium saccharinate, benzyl hemiformal, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, sodium hydroxymethylaminoacetate or sodium hydroxymethylaminoace- tate.
  • compositions of the invention may also be advantageous to employ substances which are chiefly employed for inhibition of the growth of undesirable microorganisms on or in animal organ isms in compositions of the invention.
  • further active compounds which are worth mentioning, in addition to the large group of conventional antibiotics, are, in particular, the products relevant for cosmetics, such as triclosan, climbazol, octoxyglycerol, octopirox (l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4- trimethylpentyl)-2(lH)-pyridone, 2-aminoethanol), chitosan, farnesol, glycerol monolaurate or combinations of the substances mentioned, which are employed, inter alia, against un derarm odour, foot odour or dandruff formation.
  • ingredients which have multifunc tional properties including the ability to reduce the growth of bacteria, yeast and molds may be employed to compositions covered by the invention.
  • These may include, but are not re stricted to pentane 1,2-diol, hexane 1,2-diol, caprylyl 1,2-diol, decyl 1,2-diol, tropolone, hy- droxyacetophenone, ethylhexyl glycerin, phenoxyethanol either as individual ingredients or a mixtures of 2 or more of these.
  • compositions of the invention may also comprise substances hav ing a cooling action.
  • Individual active cooling compounds which are preferred for use in the context of the present invention are listed below. The skilled person is able to supplement the following list with a large number of further active cooling compounds; the active cool ing compounds listed can also be employed in combination with one another: l-menthol, d- menthol, racemic menthol, menthone glycerol acetal (trade name: Frescolat ® MGA), menthyl lactate (trade name: Frescolat ® ML, menthyl lactate is preferably l-menthyl lactate, in particular l-menthyl l-lactate), menthyl ethylamido oxalate (Frescolat ® X-Cool), substitut ed menthyl-3-carboxylic acid amides (e.g.
  • menthyl-3-carboxylic acid N-ethylamide 2-isopropyl-N-2,3-trimethylbutanamide, substituted cyclohexanecarboxylic acid amides, 3- menthoxypropane-l,2-diol, 2-hydroxyethyl menthyl carbonate, 2-hydroxypropyl menthyl carbonate, N-acetylglycine menthyl ester, isopulegol, menthyl hydroxycarboxylic acid esters (e.g.
  • menthyl 3-hydroxybutyrate monomenthyl succinate
  • 2-mercaptocyclodecanone menthyl 2-pyrrolidin-5-onecarboxylate
  • 2,3-dihydroxy-p-menthane 3,3,5-trimethylcyclo- hexanone glycerol ketal
  • 3-menthyl 3,6-di- and -trioxaalkanoates 3-menthyl methoxyace- tate, icilin.
  • compositions may comprise preserva tives chosen from 4-hydroxyacetophenone, o-cymen-5-ol or mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes. Natural per fumes include the extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juni per), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • Typical synthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
  • perfume compounds of the ester type are benzyl ace tate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert.
  • butyl cyclohexylacetate linalyl acetate, dimethyl ben zyl carbinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
  • Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetalde- hyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal.
  • suitable ketones are the ionones, -isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone.
  • Suitable alcohols are anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpine- ol.
  • the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures of different perfume compounds which, together, produce an agreeable per fume.
  • Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils of relatively low volatility which are mostly used as aroma components. Examples are sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil.
  • bergamot oil dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavendin oil, clary oil, damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose
  • Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic pur poses as listed, for example, in the publication "Kosmetician mistakestoff” of the Farbstoff- kommission der Deutschen Deutschen Anlagenstician, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 81 to 106. Examples include cochineal red A (C.l. 16255), patent blue V (C.l. 42051), in- digotin (C.l. 73015), chlorophyllin (C.l. 75810), quinoline yellow (C.l. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.l. 77891), indanthrene blue RS (C.l. 69800) and madder lake (C.l. 58000).
  • cochineal red A C.l. 16255
  • patent blue V C.l. 42051
  • in- digotin C.l. 73015
  • chlorophyllin C.l. 75810
  • quinoline yellow C.l. 47005
  • titanium dioxide C.l. 77891
  • Luminol may also be present as a luminescent dye.
  • Advantageous coloured pigments are for example titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g. Fe203 Fe304, FeO(OH)) and/or tin oxide.
  • Advanta geous dyes are for example carmine, Berlin blue, chromium oxide green, ultramarine blue and/or manganese violet.
  • compositions according to the present inventions are selected from the group of products for treatment, protecting, care and cleansing of the skin and/or hair or as a make-up product, preferably as a leave-on product (meaning that the one or more com- pounds of formula (I) stay on the skin and/or hair for a longer period of time, compared to rinse-off products, so that the moisturizing and/or anti-ageing and/or wound healing pro moting action thereof is more pronounced).
  • the formulations according to the invention are preferably in the form of an emul sion, e.g. W/O (water-in-oil), O/W (oil-in-water), W/O/W (water-in-oil-in-water), O/W/O (oil- in-water-in-oil) emulsion, PIT emulsion, Pickering emulsion, emulsion with a low oil content, micro- or nanoemulsion, a solution, e.g.
  • a gel including hydrogel, hydrodisper sion gel, oleogel
  • spray e.g. pump spray or spray with propellant
  • a foam or an impreg nating solution for cosmetic wipes e.g. soap, synthetic detergent, liquid wash ing, shower and bath preparation, bath product (capsule, oil, tablet, salt, bath salt, soap, etc.), effervescent preparation, a skin care product such as e.g.
  • an emulsion as described above, ointment, paste, gel (as described above), oil, balsam, serum, powder (e.g. face powder, body powder), a mask, a pencil, stick, roll-on, pump, aerosol (foaming, non-foaming or post-foaming), a deodorant and/or antiperspirant, mouthwash and mouth rinse, a foot care product (including keratolytic, deodorant), an insect repellent, a sunscreen, aftersun preparation, a shaving product, aftershave balm, pre- and aftershave lotion, a depilatory agent, a hair care product such as e.g.
  • shampoo including 2-in-l shampoo, anti-dandruff shampoo, baby shampoo, shampoo for dry scalps, concentrated shampoo
  • conditioner hair tonic, hair water, hair rinse, styling creme, pomade, perm and setting lotion, hair spray, styl ing aid (e.g. gel or wax), hair smoothing agent (detangling agent, relaxer), hair dye such as e.g. temporary direct-dyeing hair dye, semi-permanent hair dye, permanent hair dye, hair conditioner, hair mousse, eye care product, make-up, make-up remover or baby product.
  • the formulations according to the invention are particularly preferably in the form of an emulsion, in particular in the form of a W/O, O/W, W/O/W, O/W/O emulsion, PIT emulsion, Pickering emulsion, emulsion with a low oil content, micro- or nanoemulsion, a gel (including hydrogel, hydrodispersion gel, oleogel), a solution e.g. in oil (fatty oils or fatty acid esters, in particular C6-C32 fatty acid C2-C30 esters)) or silicone oil, or a spray (e.g. pump spray or spray with propellant).
  • a gel including hydrogel, hydrodispersion gel, oleogel
  • a solution e.g. in oil (fatty oils or fatty acid esters, in particular C6-C32 fatty acid C2-C30 esters)) or silicone oil
  • a spray e.g. pump spray or spray with propellant.
  • Auxiliary substances and additives can be included in quantities of 5 to 99 % b.w., preferably 10 to 80 % b.w., based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • the amounts of cosmetic or dermatological auxiliary agents and additives and perfume to be used in each case can easily be determined by the person skilled in the art by simple trial and error, de pending on the nature of the particular product.
  • the preparations can also contain water in a quantity of up to 99 % b.w., preferably 5 to 80 % b.w., based on the total weight of the preparation. INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION
  • Another object of the present invention refers to a method of conditioning human skin and/or hair encompassing the following step, namely applying the plant peptide frac tion or the cosmetic composition including said plant peptide fraction to human skin or hair.
  • Also encompassed by the present invention is the use of the plant peptide fraction for hair care applications.
  • Seed of Lupinus angustifolia was dehulled and milled in a conventional ball mill.
  • the milled seeds were extracted twice with water at a temperature of 70 °C. After precipitation of the solids the supernated phase was separated-off by centrifugation.
  • the residue was suspend ed in water and subjected to hydrolysis at 31°C for 2 hours in the presence of pepsin as the potease.
  • the hydrolysate was passed over to a nanofiltration unit using a spiral would membrane having an average pore size of 2.000 Dalton. Filtration was conducted at 22 °C. While the retentate was refused, the desired lupine peptide fraction was obtained as per meate in the form of as a yellowish liquid.
  • the product was adjusted to a peptide content of 2.0 wt. -percent and preserved by adding 0.8 wt. -percent Symdiol ® 68 and 0.3 wt. -percent sodium benzoate. Finally, the solution was filtrated before packaging.
  • the so-called "Tensile Test” refers to a method which measures different linear mechanical properties of the hair fiber. The following parameters are measured:
  • Elastic Module measure of the stiffness of a material. The higher is elastic module, the higher is its stiffness.
  • Break extension maximum extension achieved at breaking point.
  • Break Stress measure of the necessary mechanical tension to lead the hair fiber to breakage.
  • Test products were applied 1, 10 and 20 times in each tress (0.5 mL of product + mas saging for 1 minute, followed by 1 minute of rinsing at running water at 33 °C, ⁇ 3°C).
  • Tresses were left at controlled environment (22°C, ⁇ 2°C; 50% RH, ⁇ 5%) overnight for drying.
  • Rhodamine B is a cationic fluorescent dye and presents affinity with damaged regions of the hair. It reacts with the negative sites of damaged hair.
  • a fluorescent complex is formed in the hair fiber and can be detected when exposed to a fluorescence microscope. After capturing images in the microscope, the inten sity of luminance in the images is quantified by image analysis. The parameter measured is luminance intensity as expression of damage.
  • a treatment that generates images less fluo- rescents expresses the effect of penetration of the formulation.
  • Test products were applied 1, 10 and 20 times in each tress (0.25 mL of product + massaging for 1 minute, followed by 1 minute of rinsing at running water at 30 °C. Leave on was not rinsed).
  • the hair fibers were embedded in an acrylic resin. Sectional 10 miti cuts were made using a microtome.
  • Fluorescence microscopy analysis was performed, followed by image analysis of the captured pictures to measure the fluorescence intensity as expression of the level of damage.
  • Cocamidopropyl betaine e.g. Dehyton K 2
  • Anti-dandruff Shampoo (Amounts in % b.w.)
  • Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Water. Water (Aqua). Butylene Glycol.
  • Sprayable hair conditioner with zinc pyrithrione. leave-on (Amounts in % b.w.)
  • Neo Heliopan AP Disodiumphenyldibenz-imidazole tetrasulphonate 1.00

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une fraction peptidique de plante, pouvant être obtenue ou obtenue conformément aux étapes suivantes consistant à : (A) utiliser des graines de lupin ; (b) dépelliculer et broyer lesdites graines de lupin ; (c) soumettre les graines de l'étape (b) à une extraction pour obtenir une première fraction peptidique ; (d) soumettre la première fraction peptidique de l'étape (c) à une hydrolyse enzymatique; (e) soumettre la fraction peptidique hydrolysée de l'étape (d) à une ultrafiltration ou une nanofiltration pour obtenir un rétentat et un perméat, ledit perméat enrichi en peptides présentant un poids moléculaire inférieur à 2 000 daltons ; et (f) éventuellement sécher le perméat de l'étape (e).
PCT/EP2019/057237 2019-03-22 2019-03-22 Peptides de plante et leurs utilisations WO2020192865A1 (fr)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN115590776A (zh) * 2022-12-01 2023-01-13 广州禾力生物科技有限公司（Cn） 一种生发密发精华液组合物及其制备方法和应用
CN118236467A (zh) * 2024-03-22 2024-06-25 首曜(江苏)生物科技有限公司 一种抗hpv感染的无患子肽溶液及其制备方法

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