WO2020150982A1

WO2020150982A1 - Composition in the form of an oil-in-water microemulsion

Info

Publication number: WO2020150982A1
Application number: PCT/CN2019/073062
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yangdong CHEN; Shanshan ZANG; Yirui ZHU
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2019-01-25
Filing date: 2019-01-25
Publication date: 2020-07-30

Abstract

An oil-in-water microemulsion composition comprises: (a) at least one oil; (b) non-ionic surfactant combination of a polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₃₀) ethers and a polyglyceryl fatty acid acid ester; (c) relative to the total weight of the composition, less than 0.2% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant; (d) at least one polyol; and (e) water.

Description

COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF AN OIL-IN-WATER MICROEMULSION

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition which is in the form of an oil-in-water microemulsion. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for/making-up keratin materials.

BACKGROUND ART

Oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions are well known in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, in particular for the preparation of cosmetic products, such as milks, creams, tonics, serums or toilet waters.

It is known practice, in the cosmetics or dermatological field, to use oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. These emulsions, that consist of an oil phase (or lipophilic phase) dispersed in an aqueous phase, have an external aqueous phase and are therefore products that are more pleasant to use because of the feeling of freshness that they provide.

In particular, a fine emulsion such as an O/W nano-or micro-emulsion is particularly interesting in cosmetic products due to its transparent or translucent aspect.

These emulsions can be prepared in particular by the phase inversion temperature technique (PIT emulsions) , in which the average size of the globules constituting the oily phase is within given limits, namely between 0.1 and 4μm (100 to 4000 nm) . The principle of phase inversion temperature (or PIT) emulsification is, in theoretical terms, well known to those skilled in the art; it was described in 1968 byK. Shinoda (J. Chem. Soc. Jpn., 1968, 89, 435) . It was shown that this emulsification technique makes it possible to obtain stable fine emulsions (K. Shinoda and H. Saito, J.

Interface Sci., 1969, 30, 258) . This technology was applied in cosmetics as early as 1972 by Mitsui et al. ( “Application of the phase-inversion-temperature method to the emulsification of cosmetics” ; T. Mitsui, Y. Machida and F. Harusawa, American. Cosmet. Perfum, 1972, 87, 33) .

The principle of this technique is as follows: an O/W emulsion (introduction of the aqueous phase into the oily phase) is prepared at a temperature that should be greater than the phase inversion temperature of the system, i.e. the temperature at which the equilibrium between the hydrophilic and lipophilic properties of the emulsifier (s) used is attained; at higher temperature, i.e. greater than the phase inversion temperature (>PIT) , the emulsion is of water-in-oil type and, as it cools, this emulsion inverts at the phase inversion temperature so as to become an emulsion of oil-in-water type, having beforehand passed through a state of microemulsion. This process makesit possible to readily obtain emulsions with a diameter generally less than 4μm.

However, it is difficult to produce an oil-in-water emulsion with the average size of the globules constituting the oily phase is much lower than 100 nm at room temperature for long time, for example, 2 months, and therefore being stable and transparent.

Therefore, there is a need for an oil-in-water microemulsion which is stable and transparent.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition in the form of oil-in-water microemulsion which is stable and transparent.

Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water microemulsion, comprising:

(a) at least one oil;

(b) non-ionic surfactant combination of a polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₃₀) ether and a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester;

(c) relative to the total weight of the composition, less than 0.2%by weight of at least one anionic surfactant;

(d) at least one polyol; and

(e) water.

The "microemulsion" may be defined in two ways, namely, in a broader sense and in a narrower sense. That is to say, there are one case ( "microemulsion in the narrow sense" ) in which the microemulsion refers to a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase containing a ternary system having three ingredients of an oily component, an aqueous component and a surfactant, and the other case ( "microemulsion in the broad sense" ) in which among thermodynamically unstable typical emulsion systems the microemulsion additionally includes those such emulsions presenting transparent or translucent appearances due to their smaller particle sizes (Satoshi Tomomasa, et al., Oil Chemistry, Vol. 37, No. 11 (1988) , pp. 48-53) . The "microemulsion" as used herein refers to a "microemulsion in the broad sense" .

On one hand, the composition according to the present invention is the form of an oil-in-water emulsion wherein the oil is in the form of a droplet with a mead diameter by volume of 50 nm or less, preferably from 20 nm to 50 nm for at least two months.

On other hand, the composition according to the present invention is transparent.

According to another aspect, the present invention provides to a cosmetic process for caring for/making-up keratin materials, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin materials.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to... " .

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Throughout the present application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is intended to cover the human skin, the hair, the mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and/or the scalp. Human skin, in particular facial skin, is most particularly considered according to the present invention.

According to one aspect, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water microemulsion, comprising:

(a) at least one oil;

(d) at least one polyol; and

(e) water.

Oil

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil. Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25℃) under atmospheric pressure (760mmHg) . As the oil (s) , those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. The oil (s) may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.

The term "non-volatile oil" means oil that remains on the keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . More specifically, non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm ²/min.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m ³ that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25℃, and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said oil mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish. The mass of said oil or oil mixture remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm ²) and per unit of time (minute) .

The term "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01and 200mg/cm ²/min, limits included.

The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

It is preferable that the oil be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.

As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C ₄-C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₁-C ₂₂alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C ₄-C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C ₆-C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂-C ₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose) , glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆-C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂-C ₂₂ fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name

DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri (2-ethylhexanoate) , pentaerythrithyl tetra (2-ethylhexanoate) , 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of ether oils, mention may be made of, for example, dicaprylylether and diisocetylether.

As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri (caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri (caprate/caprylate/linolenate) .

As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) , Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

Volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, that are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups that are pendent or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes, may be used.

Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:

- linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C ₆-C ₁₆ lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and

- linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as

and squalane.

As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin) , paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

The (a) oil may be a fatty alcohol. The term “fatty alcohol” here means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈-C ₃₀alcohol, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4) . If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Among the C ₈-C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, C ₁₂-C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, for example, may be used. Mention may be made, among these, of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the (a) oil be chosen from ester oils or hydrocarbon oils which are in the form of a liquid at a room temperature.

It is also preferable that the (a) oil be chosen from oils with molecular weight below 600g/mol.

Preferably, the (a) oil has a low molecular weight such as below 600g/mol, chosen among ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C ₁-C ₁₂) (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate) , hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane) , branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohol (C ₁₂-C ₃₀) type oils such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylylether.

The amount of the oil in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, and may range from 0.1to 20%by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10%by weight, and more preferably from 0.1to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₃₀) ethers

The composition according to the present invention comprises a polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₃₀) ether.

The polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₃₀) ethers which may be used as surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the present invention, may be selected from the group consisting of:

PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30; Polyoxyethlene (30) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those sold as Nikkol PEN-4630 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-12; Polyoxyethylene (12) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those sold as Nikkol PEN-4612 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24; Polyoxyethylene (24) Polyoxypropylene (13) Decyltetradecyl Ether such as those sold as UNILUBE 50MT-2200B from NOF Corporation,

PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (6) Decyltetradecyl Ether such as those sold as Nikkol PEN-4620 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

PPG-4 Ceteth-1; Polyoxyethylene (1) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold as Nikkol PBC-31 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

PPG-8 Ceteth-1; Polyoxyethylene (1) Polyoxypropylene (8) Cetyl Ether such as those sold as Nikkol PBC-41 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

PPG-4 Ceteth-10; Polyoxyethylene (10) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold as Nikkol PBC-33 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

PPG-4 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold as Nikkol PBC-34 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

PPG-5 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (5) Cetyl Ether such as those sold as Procetyl AWS from Croda Inc.,

PPG-8 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (8) Cetyl Ether such as those sold as Nikkol PBC-44 from Nikko Chemicals Co., and

PPG-23 Steareth-34; Polyoxyethylene Polyoxypropylene Stearyl Ether (34 EO) (23 PO) such as those sold as Unisafe 34S-23 from Pola Chemical Industries.

It is more preferable that the polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₃₀) ethers are (15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₂₄) ethers, which could be selected from the group consisting of PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-20, PPG-5 Ceteth-20, PPG-8 Ceteth-20, and PPG-23 Steareth-34.

It is most preferable that the polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₃₀) ethers are polyoxyethylenated (15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₂₄) ethers, which could be selected from the group consisting of PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-5 Ceteth-20, and PPG-8 Ceteth-20.

The amount of the polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₃₀) ether in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1 to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5%by weight, and more preferably from 0.3 to 3%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polyglyceryl fatty acid ester

The composition according to the present invention comprises a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

For the purpose of the present invention, it is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester have a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10glycerols, more preferably from 3 to 6glycerols, and further more preferably 5 or 6glycerols.

The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from the mono, di and tri esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, including 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.

The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 caprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 caprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 laurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleate, PG4 caprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 laurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 tristearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 triisostearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleate, PG5 caprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 laurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 tristearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleate, PG6 caprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 laurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG10 caprate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 tricaprate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 dicaprylate, PG10 tricaprylate, PG10 laurate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 trilaurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 trimyristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 distearate, PG10 tristearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 diisostearate, PG10 triisostearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 dioleate, and PG10 trioleate.

It is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester be chosen from:

- polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units,

- polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units,

- polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 3 to 6glycerol units,

- polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 3 to 6glycerol units, and

- polyglyceryl monocaprate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units.

In one embodiment, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester raw material may be chosen from a mixture of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, preferably with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 6glycerins, more preferably 5 or 6 glycerins, wherein the mixture preferably comprises 30%by weight or more of a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester with a polyglyceryl moiety consisting of 5 or 6 glycerins.

It is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester raw material comprise esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine containing 70%or more of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is 4 or more, preferably esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine containing equal to or more than 60%of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is between 4 and 11, and more preferably esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine containing equal to or more than 30%of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is 5.

The amount of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1 to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5%by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purpose of the present invention, it is preferable that the weight ratio of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester to the polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₃₀) ether ranges from 0.1 to 1, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5, and even more preferably from 0.2 to 0.5.

Anionic surfactant

The composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, less than 0.2%by weight of at least one anionic surfactant.

The anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, alkyl sulphoacetates, and their mixtures.

Mention may be made, as phosphates and alkyl phosphates, for example, of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl monophosphate, sold under the name MAP

by Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecyl phosphate, the mixture of mono-and diesters (predominantly diester) sold under the name Crafol

by Cognis, the mixture of octyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Crafol

by Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) 2-butyloctyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate

by Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt of mono (C ₁₂-C ₁₃) alkyl phosphate, sold under the references Arlatone MAP

and Arlatone MAP

by Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate, sold under the name Dermalcare MAP

by Rhodia Chimie, and potassium cetyl phosphate, sold under the name Arlatone MAP 160K by Uniqema.

Mention may be made, as carboxylates, of:

- amido ether carboxylates (AEC) , such as sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 EO) , sold under the name Akypo Foam

by Kao Chemicals;

- polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts, such as oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (65/25/10 C ₁₂-C ₁₄-C ₁₆) , sold under the name Akypo Soft 45

by Kao Chemicals, polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated fatty acids originating from olive oil, sold under the name Olivem

by Biologia E Tecnologia, or oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium tridecyl ether carboxylate, sold under the name Nikkol

by Nikkol; and

- salts of fatty acids (soaps) having a C ₆ to C ₂₂ alkyl chain which are neutralized with an organic or inorganic base, such as potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine.

Mention may be made, as sulphosuccinates, for example, of oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl (70/30 C ₁₂/C ₁₄) alcohol monosulphosuccinate, sold under the names Setacin 103

and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K

by Witco, the disodium salt of a hemisulphosuccinate of C ₁₂-C ₁₄ alcohols, sold under the name Setacin F Special

by Zschimmer Schwarz, oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium oleamidosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Standapol SH

by Cognis, oxyethylenated (5 EO) lauramide monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Lebon

by Sanyo, the disodium salt of oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl citrate monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Rewopol SB CS

by Witco, or ricinoleic monoethanolamide monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Rewoderm S

by Witco. Use may also be made of polydimethylsiloxane sulphosuccinates, such as disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulphosuccinate, sold under the name Mackanate-DC 30 by MacIntyre.

Mention may be made, as alkyl sulphates, for example, of triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: TEA lauryl sulphate) , such as the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol TL40 FL or the product sold by Cognis under the name Texapon T42, which products are at 40%in aqueous solution. Mention may also be made of ammonium lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium lauryl sulphate) , such as the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol AL 30FL, which is at 30%in aqueous solution.

Mention may be made, as alkyl ether sulphates, for example, of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA name: sodium laureth sulphate) , such as that sold under the names Texapon N40 and Texapon AOS 225 UP by Cognis, or ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium laureth sulphate) , such as that sold under the name Standapol EA-2 by Cognis.

Mention may be made, as sulphonates, for example, of α-olefinsulphonates, such as sodium α-olefinsulphonate (C ₁₄-C ₁₆) , sold under the name Bio-Terge

by Stepan, sold under the names Witconate AOS

and Sulframine AOS PH

by Witco or sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40

by Stepan, secondary sodium olefinsulphonate, sold under the name Hostapur SAS

by Clariant; or linear alkylarylsulphonates, such as sodium xylenesulphonate, sold under the names Manrosol

Manrosol

and Manrosol

by Manro.

Mention may be made, as isethionates, of acylisethionates, such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name Jordapon CI

by Jordan.

Mention may be made, as taurates, of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon CT

by Clariant; N-acyl-N-methyltaurates, such as sodium N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon

by Clariant or sold under the name Nikkol

by Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate, sold under the name Nikkol

by Nikkol, or sodium steraroyl methyltaurate, sold under the name Sunsoft O-30S by Taiyo Kagaku.

It is preferable that the anionic surfactant be selected from methyltaurate, more preferably N-acyl-N-methyltaurate, and even more preferably sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyl-taurate.

The amount of the anionic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01 to 0.18%by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 0.15%by weight, and more preferably from 0.05 to 0.15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purpose of the present invention, it is preferable that the weight ratio of the non-ionic surfactant combination of a polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₃₀) ether and a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester to the anionic surfactant ranges from 2 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 20, and even more preferably from 10 to 15.

The inventors of the present invention has discovered that with the non-ionic surfactant combination of a polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₃₀) ether and a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester as well as at least one anionic surfactant preferably selected from methyltaurates, a composition in the form of an oil-in-water microemulsion which is stable and remain transparent at -4℃-45℃ for a long time (at least two months) , even when the temperature of the composition is increased and decreased in a relatively short period of time, can be obtained.

Polyol

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyol. A single type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyol may be used in combination.

The term “polyol” here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acylgroup or a carbonyl group.

The polyol may be a C ₂-C ₁₂ polyol, preferably a C _2-9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

The polyol may be selected from glycerins and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, polyethyleneglycol (5 to 50 ethyleneoxide groups) , and products of addition of ethylene oxide and C3-C4 alkylene oxide to a polyol such as glycerol such as for example polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxy-propylene glycerol (INCI name PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerine) such as the compound marketed under the name WILBRIDE S-753 by NOF.

The polyol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20%by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 15%by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Water

The composition according to the present invention comprises water.

The amount of water is not limited, and may be from 50 to 99%by weight, preferably from 50 to 95%by weight, and more preferably 60 to 90%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Other ingredients

The composition according to the invention is advantageously a cosmetic composition.

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise other ingredients, known previously elsewhere in cosmetic compositions, such as cosmetic active ingredient, for example, antiaging agents such as hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, elastin degradation inhibitor such as acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, whitening agents such as yeast extract, antiwrinkle agnet such as adenosine, antigreasy skin agents, UV screening agents such as salicylic acid, vitamins or provitamins such as panthenol, rhamnose, plant extracts, antioxidation active ingredient such as tocopherol, microcirculation promotors such as madecassoside, and various common adjuvants, for example, sequestering agents such as EDTA and etidronic acid, preserving agents such as phenoxyethanol, opacifiers, fragrances, hydrophilic gelling agent such as xanthan gum, cationic polymers and so on.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water microemulsion, comprising, relative to relative to the total weight of the composition:

(a) from 0.1 to 5%by weight of at least one oil having a molecular weight below 600g/mol and chosen among ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C ₁-C ₁₂) (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate) , hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane) , branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohol (C ₁₂-C ₃₀) type oils such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylylether;

(b) from 0.1 to 2%by weight of polyoxyethylenated (15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₂₄) ether, and from 0.1 to 2%by weight of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester selected from polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 3 to 6glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate comprising 3 to 6glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 3 to 6glycerol units, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 3 to 6glycerol units, and polyglyceryl monocaprate comprising 2 to 6glycerol units;

(c) from 0.05 to 0.15%by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from N-acyl-N-methyltaurates;

(d) from 1 to 10%by weight, of at least one polyol selected from glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, polyethyleneglycol (5 to 50 ethyleneoxide groups) , and products of addition of ethylene oxide and C3-C4 alkylene oxide to glycerol; and

(e) water.

[Preparation and Properties]

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with a conventional process. The conventional process includes mixing with a high pressure homogenizer (a high energy process) . Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared by a low energy process such as simple mechanical agitation, phase inversion temperature process (PIT) , phase inversion concentration (PIC) , autoemulsification, and the like.

The composition according to the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water microemulsion and is transparent.

The oil droplets constituting the oil phase of the composition according to the present invention have a mean diamater by volume of less than 50 nm.

The composition may be a toner, a foundation, a mascara, a lipstick, a lip gloss, a blusher, an eye shadow, a nail varnish, and the like

[Process and Use]

The composition of the present invention can be used for a non-theraputic process, such as a cosmetic process or method, for caring for/making up the keratin materials, such as the human skin, the hair, the mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and/or the scalp.

Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention provides to a cosmetic process for caring for/making-up keratin materials, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin materials.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be illustrated in more detail by way of examples, which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Example 1: Preparation of compositions according to invention and comparative formulas

The compositions according to invention formula (inv. ) and comparative formulas (comp. ) listed in the Table 1 were prepared. The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on “%by weight” of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

Table 1

Preparation process:

The compositions are prepared as follows:

(1) mixing oil phase and surfactants, including ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE, PEG/PPG/POLYBUTYLENE GLYCOL-8/5/3 GLYCERIN, PPG-6 DECYLTETRADECETH-30, SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TAURATE, POLYGLYCERYL-5 LAURATE, and TOCOPHEROL;

(2) heating the prepared phase up to around 75℃;

(3) heating water up to around 75℃ and remaining ingredients to form an aqueous phase;

(4) mixing the two phases to obtain an O/W emulsion;

(5) cooling the O/W emulsion down to room temperature.

Example 2: evaluation of the invention and comparative formulas

The particle size of oil droplets and stability of compositions according to invention and comparative formulas prepared in Example 1 were evaluated.

The stability tests at room temperature (25℃) and 45℃ were conducted using Binder oven (USA) , by leaving the compositions according to invention and comparative formulas in the oven for 2 months.

Lastly, the freezing-thaw stability tests were conducted for 10 cycles using Binder over (USA) . In each cycle, the temperature will be changed gradually from 20℃ to -20℃ in 24 hours. In particular, the compositions are kept at 20℃ for 6 hours, then cooled to -20℃ gradually in 6 hours, next, kept at -20℃ for 6 hours. Then the compositions are warmed to 20℃ gradually in 6 hours, next, kept at 20℃for 6 hours.

The particle sizes of oil droplets in compositions according to invention and comparative formulas at the end of the stability tests were measured through Brookhaven DLS with scattering angle (°) of 90 and count rate of 355.1 kcps. The following criterion was used to evaluate the stability.

If Particle size (Mean Diamater By Volume) is 50 nm or more, then the stability test failed.

If Particle size (Mean Diamater By Volume) is less than 50 nm, then the stability test passed.

The aspect of compositions according to invention formula and comparative formulas prepared in Example 1 at the end of the stability tests were visual evaluated.

The results of particle size of oil droplets, stability and aspect of the compositions according to invention and comparative formulas were listed in Table 2 below.

Table 2

N/A: not evualted.

As is clear from the above results, it was found that the composition in the form of an oil-in-water microemulsion according to the present invention had smaller oil droplets, i.e., with a mean diameter by volume of less than 50 nm, and therefore, provided a transparent aspect for at least two months.

While illustrative examples of the invention have been described above, it is, of course, understood that various modifications will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the relevant art, or may become apparent as the art develops, in the light of the foregoing description. Such modifications are contemplated as being within the spirit and scope of the invention or inventions disclosed in this specification.

Claims

A composition in the form of an oil-in-water microemulsion, comprising:

(a) at least one oil;

(b) non-ionic surfactant combination of a polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₃₀) ether and a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester;

(c) relative to the total weight of the composition, less than 0.2%by weight of at least one anionic surfactant;

(d) at least one polyol; and

(e) water.
The composition accordingto Claim 1, wherein the oil is selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil has a molecular weight below 600 g/mol and chosen among ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C ₁-C ₁₂) (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate) , hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane) , branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohol (C ₁₂-C ₃₀) type oils such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylylether.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the oil ranges from 0.1 to 20%by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10%by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₃₀) ether is selected from polyoxyethylenated (15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₂₄) ether.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of the the polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₃₀) ether ranges from 0.1 to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5%by weight, and more preferably from 0.3 to 3%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of Claim 1 to 6, wherein the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is chosen from:

- polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units,

- polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units,

- polyglyceryl monooleate comprising3 to 6 glycerol units,

- polyglyceryl dioleate comprising3 to 6 glycerol units, and

- polyglyceryl monocaprate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units..
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester ranges from 0.1 to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5%by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the weight ratio of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester to the polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₃₀) ether rangesfrom 0.1 to 1, more preferablyfrom 0.1 to 0.5, and even more preferably from 0.2 to 0.5.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the anionicsurfactantis selected from phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, alkyl sulphoacetates, and their mixtures.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the weight ratio of the non-ionic surfactant combination of a polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₃₀) ether and a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester to the anionic surfactant ranges from 2 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 20, and even more preferably from 10 to 15.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the polyol is selected from glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, polyethyleneglycol (5 to 50 ethyleneoxide groups) , and products of addition of ethylene oxide and C3-C4 alkylene oxide to glycerol.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the amount o fthe polyol ranges from 0.1 to 20%by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 15%by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
A composition in the form of an oil-in-water microemulsion, comprising, relative to relative to the total weight of the composition:

(a) from 0.1 to 5%by weight of at least one oil having a molecular weight below 600g/mol and chosen among ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C ₁-C ₁₂) (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate) , hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane) , branched and/or unsaturatedfattyalcohol (C ₁₂-C ₃₀) type oils such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oilssuch as dicaprylylether;

(b) from 0.1 to 2%by weight of polyoxyethylenated (15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆-C ₂₄) ether, and from 0.1 to 2%by weight of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester selected from polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl monocaprate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units;

(c) from 0.05 to 0.15%by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from N-acyl-N-methyltaurates;

(d) from 1 to 10%by weight, of at least one polyol selected from glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, polyethyleneglycol (5 to 50 ethyleneoxide groups) , and products of addition of ethylene oxide and C3-C4 alkylene oxide to glycerol; and

(e) water.
A cosmetic process for caring for/making-up keratin materials, comprisingthe step of applying the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 to the keratin materials.