WO2020125924A1 - Procédé de détermination rapide de dommages capillaires oxydatifs desdits échantillons de cheveux sans destruction - Google Patents
Procédé de détermination rapide de dommages capillaires oxydatifs desdits échantillons de cheveux sans destruction Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2020125924A1 WO2020125924A1 PCT/EP2018/085202 EP2018085202W WO2020125924A1 WO 2020125924 A1 WO2020125924 A1 WO 2020125924A1 EP 2018085202 W EP2018085202 W EP 2018085202W WO 2020125924 A1 WO2020125924 A1 WO 2020125924A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- hair
- spectrum
- mid
- infrared light
- oxidative
- Prior art date
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
- A61B5/00—Measuring for diagnostic purposes; Identification of persons
- A61B5/0059—Measuring for diagnostic purposes; Identification of persons using light, e.g. diagnosis by transillumination, diascopy, fluorescence
- A61B5/0075—Measuring for diagnostic purposes; Identification of persons using light, e.g. diagnosis by transillumination, diascopy, fluorescence by spectroscopy, i.e. measuring spectra, e.g. Raman spectroscopy, infrared absorption spectroscopy
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D44/00—Other cosmetic or toiletry articles, e.g. for hairdressers' rooms
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
- A61B5/00—Measuring for diagnostic purposes; Identification of persons
- A61B5/103—Detecting, measuring or recording devices for testing the shape, pattern, colour, size or movement of the body or parts thereof, for diagnostic purposes
- A61B5/1032—Determining colour for diagnostic purposes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
- A61B5/00—Measuring for diagnostic purposes; Identification of persons
- A61B5/44—Detecting, measuring or recording for evaluating the integumentary system, e.g. skin, hair or nails
- A61B5/448—Hair evaluation, e.g. for hair disorder diagnosis
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
- A61B5/00—Measuring for diagnostic purposes; Identification of persons
- A61B5/72—Signal processing specially adapted for physiological signals or for diagnostic purposes
- A61B5/7235—Details of waveform analysis
- A61B5/7246—Details of waveform analysis using correlation, e.g. template matching or determination of similarity
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D44/00—Other cosmetic or toiletry articles, e.g. for hairdressers' rooms
- A45D2044/007—Devices for determining the condition of hair or skin or for selecting the appropriate cosmetic or hair treatment
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D2200/00—Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
- A45D2200/20—Additional enhancing means
- A45D2200/205—Radiation, e.g. UV, infrared
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
- A61B2503/00—Evaluating a particular growth phase or type of persons or animals
- A61B2503/12—Healthy persons not otherwise provided for, e.g. subjects of a marketing survey
Definitions
- the present invention relates to the field of hair damage evaluation, in particular for the purpose of determining user specific hair cosmetic products or hair treatment.
- cosmetic product is understood, in particular within the meaning of the present invention, to mean a product as defined in Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and Council of 30 November 2009 relating to cosmetic products.
- Hair products include, for example, hair coloration, natural coloration, hair color make-up, hair bleach, hair perm, hair relaxer, hair care products: shampoos, conditioners, hair mask, etc.
- the aim of the invention is to improve, in terms of results accuracy and methods for determining hair damage, notably hair oxidative damage in view of determining hair product(s) may be applied on said hair.
- a provided method for determining oxidative hair damage in view of determining if hair product(s) may be applied on said hair comprising:
- the hair product may be a cosmetic product, for example, hair coloration, natural coloration, hair color make-up, hair bleach, hair perm, hair relaxer, hair care products: shampoos, conditioners, hair mask, etc, that is intended to be applied, for example, to the hair of the user.
- a cosmetic product for example, hair coloration, natural coloration, hair color make-up, hair bleach, hair perm, hair relaxer, hair care products: shampoos, conditioners, hair mask, etc, that is intended to be applied, for example, to the hair of the user.
- Oxidative hair damage is generally due to UV exposure, or the chemical treatments, such as: hair coloration, hair bleach, hair perm, etc.
- the damage process can be caused by a degradation of amino acids, for example cystine, tryptophan, methionine, tyrosine, histidine or lysine.
- the deterioration of cystine can destroy the mechanical stability of the hair and even lead to a complete and irreversible hair breakage.
- cysteic acid is the oxidative marker for the hair damage.
- keratin fiber and “hair” comprises furs, wool, feathers, and especially human hair.
- Mid-infrared spectroscopy allows direct, non-destructive determination of oxidation product content of an amino acid and can be performed directly on keratin fibers located on the user’s head.
- Mid- Infrared spectroscopy uses infrared radiation to excite the amino acid molecules and generates an infrared spectrum of the energy absorbed by these molecules as a function of the wavenumber in a range of 4000 to 700cm- l .
- the adequate pressure ranges above lkg/mm 2 .
- the method further comprises:
- the method for converting the normalized spectrum value into a numerical value of cysteic acid may be based on the combination of first and second derivatives at mid-infrared range and comprises a correlation equation using known high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method data.
- HPLC high-performance liquid chromatography
- the method comprises a step of comparing said numerical value with a threshold to determine the oxidative damage o f the hair sample.
- the light used has a wavelength in a range of 4000 - 700cm 1 .
- the spectrum o f the hair sample is advantageously collected at the most end point of the hairs from the hair scalp of the user, for example 10cm to 15cm.
- the method may for example repeat one to ten times, for example six times, said measurements, to determine a reliable oxidative damage diagnostic of the hair sample.
- the method further comprises a step o f displaying the result of the oxidative damage diagnostic of the hair sample on a display means.
- the result displayed may be in the form of“yes” or“no”,“yes” meaning that product(s) may be applied on said hair, at least 1 more time and “no” meaning that the hair is too much damaged and it is preferably not to apply certain product(s) on said hair, but some products still could be recommended.
- the result displayed may be shown with colors,“red” when the hair is too much damaged and “green” if the hair is not too much damaged.
- Other forms of showing the result are possible, such as the numerical value simply presented in terms of cysteic acid.
- the result displayed may also be the products to be applied on the hair.
- the method may be configured for determining oxidative hair damage on treated or untreated hair.
- the invention concerns a system for determining oxidative hair damage in view of determining if hair product(s) may be applied on said hair comprising an acquisition module for emitting mid-infrared light and collecting a background spectrum under said mid-infrared light; and a spectrum of the hair sample under said mid-infrared light; a communication unit, an analysis module and a display device.
- the analysis module is configured to adjust the spectrum baseline at zero absorbance on the selected wavelengths, fixing the intensity of the signal at said specific wavelength at a reference value, to obtain a normalized value of the infra-red spectrum; and processing said normalized value in order to obtain an automatically converted numerical value of cysteic acid, which corresponds to the oxidative marker for hairs.
- FIG 1 is a schematic view of a system for determining hair damage according to an embodiment of the invention
- FIG 2 is a flowchart illustrating the steps of a method for determining hair oxidative damage of the hair sample according to an embodiment of the invention.
- a system 10 for determining hair damage, and notably oxidative hair damage in view of determining if hair product(s) may be applied on said hair is illustrated on Figure 1 .
- the hair product may be a cosmetic product, for example, hair coloration, natural coloration, hair color make-up, hair bleach, hair perm, hair relaxer, hair care products: shampoos, conditioners, hair mask, etc, that is intended to be applied, for example, to the hair of the user.
- a cosmetic product for example, hair coloration, natural coloration, hair color make-up, hair bleach, hair perm, hair relaxer, hair care products: shampoos, conditioners, hair mask, etc, that is intended to be applied, for example, to the hair of the user.
- Oxidative hair damage is generally due to UV exposure, or the chemical treatments, such as: hair coloration, hair bleach, hair perm, etc.
- the damage process can be caused by a degradation of amino acids, for example cystine, tryptophan, methionine, tyrosine, histidine or lysine.
- the deterioration of cystine can destroy the mechanical stability of the hair and even lead to a complete and irreversible hair breakage.
- cysteic acid is the oxidative marker for the hair damage.
- keratin fiber and “hair” comprises furs, wool, feathers, and especially human hair.
- Said system 10 comprises an acquisition module 12 for collecting a spectrum under a mid-infrared light, a communication unit 14, an analysis module 16 and a display device 18.
- the communication unit 14 is capable of transmitting the collected spectrum taken by the acquisition module 12 to the analysis module 16 and to the display device 18.
- the display device 18 may be, for example, a tablet, a computer or any other display means such as, a mobile phone, a screen.
- Mid-infrared spectroscopy allows direct, non-destructive determination of oxidation product content of an amino acid and can be performed directly on keratin fibers located on the user’s head.
- Mid- Infrared spectroscopy uses infrared radiation to excite the amino acid molecules and generates an infrared spectrum of the energy absorbed by these molecules as a function of the wavenumber in a range of 4000 to 700cm- l .
- the analysis module 16 is configured to adjust the spectrum baseline at zero absorbance on the selected wavelengths without interest of the data manipulation.
- the intensity of the signal at said specific wavelength is fixed at a reference value, thus the IR spectrum is reprocessed to be normalized, which allows to eliminate the variability during acquisition of the spectrum.
- the normalized spectrum value is then processed in order to give an automatically converted numerical value of cysteic acid, which corresponds to the oxidative marker for hairs.
- the method for converting the normalized spectrum value into a numerical value of cysteic acid is based on the combination of first and second derivatives at mid-infrared range and comprises a correlation equation using known high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method data.
- HPLC high-performance liquid chromatography
- the system 10 is configured to repeat one to ten times, for example six times said measurements and to determine a reliable oxidative damage diagnostic of the hair sample.
- the analysis module 16 is configured to transmit to the display device 18 the result of the oxidative damage diagnostic of the hair sample, which displays on the display means, if the hair is capable of receiving a hair product, and what kinds of the cosmetic hair products can be applied.
- Figure 2 is a flowchart illustrating the main steps of a method 100 for determining hair damage, and notably oxidative hair damage in view of determining if hair product(s) may be applied on said hair using the system 10 illustrated on Figure 1 .
- the method 100 comprises a first step 101 of collecting a background spectrum under a mid-infrared light. Background spectrum means that no hair sample is hold by a holding device 20.
- the method 100 further comprises a step 102 of fixing a hair sample with adequate pressure on the IR probe surface using a holding device 20. For example, at 10cm to 15cm from the hair scalp of the user.
- mid-infrared light is emitted and the spectrum of the hair sample under said mid-infrared light is collected.
- Mid-infrared spectroscopy allows direct, non-destructive determination of oxidation product content of an amino acid and can be performed directly on keratin fibers located on the user’s head.
- Mid-Infrared spectroscopy uses infrared radiation to excite the amino acid molecules and generates an infrared spectrum of the energy absorbed by these molecules as a function of the wavenumber in a range of 4000 to 700cm- l .
- the hair sample spectrum is adjusted at zero absorbance on the selected wavelengths without interest of the data manipulation.
- the intensity of the signal at said specific wavelength is fixed at a reference value, thus the IR spectrum is reprocessed to be normalized, which allows to eliminate the variability during acquisition of the spectrum.
- the normalized spectrum value is then processed in order to give an automatically converted numerical value of cysteic acid, which corresponds to the oxidative marker for hairs.
- the method for converting the normalized spectrum value into a numerical value of cysteic acid is based on the combination of first and second derivatives at mid-infrared range and comprises a correlation equation using known high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method data.
- HPLC high-performance liquid chromatography
- said numerical value is compared with a defined threshold value to determine the oxidative damage of the hair sample and to suggest the following cosmetic hair products applied on the head.
- step 107 the result of the oxidative damage diagnostic of the hair sample is displayed on the display means.
- the result displayed may be in the form of“yes” or“no”,“yes” meaning that product(s) may be applied on said hair, at least 1 more time and “no” meaning that the hair is too much damaged and it is preferably not to apply certain product(s) on said hair, but some products still could be recommended.
- the result displayed may be shown with colors,“red” when the hair is too much damaged and “green” if the hair is not too much damaged.
- Other forms of showing the result are possible, but if the value presented in the numeral value of cysteic acid, the comparison step 106 is optional.
- the method 100 may repeat one to ten times, for example six times said measurements and to determine a reliable oxidative damage diagnostic of the hair sample.
- the method according to the invention allows to easily and accurately determine the level of oxidation product of an amino acid in the hair sample and obtain a matched hair treatment instruction.
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- Computer Vision & Pattern Recognition (AREA)
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- Investigating Or Analysing Materials By Optical Means (AREA)
- Measurement Of The Respiration, Hearing Ability, Form, And Blood Characteristics Of Living Organisms (AREA)
Abstract
La présente invention concerne un procédé (100) permettant de déterminer un endommagement oxydatif des cheveux en vue de déterminer si un ou des produits capillaires peuvent être appliqués sur lesdits cheveux, comprenant : - une étape (101) d'émission de lumière infrarouge moyen collectant un spectre d'arrière-plan sous ladite lumière infrarouge moyen ; et - une étape (102) de fixation des échantillons de cheveux ; et - une étape (103) d'émission de lumière infrarouge moyen et de collecte d'un spectre de l'échantillon de cheveux sous ladite lumière infrarouge moyen. Le procédé comprend en outre : - une étape (104) de réglage de la base du spectre à l'absorbance zéro sur les longueurs d'onde sélectionnées et de fixation de l'intensité du signal à ladite longueur d'onde spécifique à une valeur de référence, pour obtenir une valeur normalisée du spectre infrarouge ; et - une étape (105) de traitement de ladite valeur normalisée pour obtenir une valeur numérique convertie automatiquement de l'acide cystéique, qui correspond au marqueur oxydant pour les cheveux.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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PCT/EP2018/085202 WO2020125924A1 (fr) | 2018-12-17 | 2018-12-17 | Procédé de détermination rapide de dommages capillaires oxydatifs desdits échantillons de cheveux sans destruction |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
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PCT/EP2018/085202 WO2020125924A1 (fr) | 2018-12-17 | 2018-12-17 | Procédé de détermination rapide de dommages capillaires oxydatifs desdits échantillons de cheveux sans destruction |
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WO2020125924A1 true WO2020125924A1 (fr) | 2020-06-25 |
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Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP1370224A1 (fr) * | 2001-03-20 | 2003-12-17 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Compositions convenant pour le traitement des cheveux comprenant des ch latants, et proc d pour r duire la d t rioration des cheveux par oxydation |
US20060281994A1 (en) * | 2004-03-31 | 2006-12-14 | Yuta Miyamae | Method of judging degree of hair damage |
US20090274642A1 (en) * | 2008-04-30 | 2009-11-05 | Dawson Jr Thomas Larry | Hair Care Compositions for Preventing Oxidative Damage to Hair, Methods of Use, and Methods of Marketing Such Compositions |
US20140216492A1 (en) | 2011-09-19 | 2014-08-07 | Natura Cosmeticos S.A. | Method for assessing hair conditions and diagnostic system for prescription of customized cosmetic treatment and/or product |
WO2018007354A1 (fr) | 2016-07-05 | 2018-01-11 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Procédé pour établir un traitement capillaire spécifique pour un utilisateur |
DE102016212202A1 (de) * | 2016-07-05 | 2018-01-11 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Verfahren und Vorrichtung zum Ermitteln eines Schädigungsgrads von Haar und Verfahren zum Ermitteln eines nutzerspezifischen Mittels zur Haarbehandlung |
-
2018
- 2018-12-17 WO PCT/EP2018/085202 patent/WO2020125924A1/fr active Application Filing
Patent Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP1370224A1 (fr) * | 2001-03-20 | 2003-12-17 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Compositions convenant pour le traitement des cheveux comprenant des ch latants, et proc d pour r duire la d t rioration des cheveux par oxydation |
US20060281994A1 (en) * | 2004-03-31 | 2006-12-14 | Yuta Miyamae | Method of judging degree of hair damage |
US20090274642A1 (en) * | 2008-04-30 | 2009-11-05 | Dawson Jr Thomas Larry | Hair Care Compositions for Preventing Oxidative Damage to Hair, Methods of Use, and Methods of Marketing Such Compositions |
US20140216492A1 (en) | 2011-09-19 | 2014-08-07 | Natura Cosmeticos S.A. | Method for assessing hair conditions and diagnostic system for prescription of customized cosmetic treatment and/or product |
WO2018007354A1 (fr) | 2016-07-05 | 2018-01-11 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Procédé pour établir un traitement capillaire spécifique pour un utilisateur |
DE102016212202A1 (de) * | 2016-07-05 | 2018-01-11 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Verfahren und Vorrichtung zum Ermitteln eines Schädigungsgrads von Haar und Verfahren zum Ermitteln eines nutzerspezifischen Mittels zur Haarbehandlung |
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