WO2020061658A1 - Hair treatment compositions comprising an esterquat - Google Patents
Hair treatment compositions comprising an esterquat Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2020061658A1 WO2020061658A1 PCT/BR2018/050358 BR2018050358W WO2020061658A1 WO 2020061658 A1 WO2020061658 A1 WO 2020061658A1 BR 2018050358 W BR2018050358 W BR 2018050358W WO 2020061658 A1 WO2020061658 A1 WO 2020061658A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- hair treatment
- treatment composition
- hair
- alcohol
- cationic
- Prior art date
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 263
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 title claims abstract description 249
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 62
- 229920013822 aminosilicone Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 39
- 239000003093 cationic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 28
- 229920006317 cationic polymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- -1 isostearyl Chemical group 0.000 claims description 124
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 93
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 70
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 claims description 70
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 40
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 claims description 35
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 claims description 25
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 claims description 25
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 25
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 22
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 claims description 21
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 19
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 19
- QLAJNZSPVITUCQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,3,2-dioxathietane 2,2-dioxide Chemical compound O=S1(=O)OCO1 QLAJNZSPVITUCQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
- NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 14
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 14
- 229920000881 Modified starch Polymers 0.000 claims description 13
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- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 235000010980 cellulose Nutrition 0.000 claims description 13
- WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 150000003856 quaternary ammonium compounds Chemical group 0.000 claims description 12
- REZQBEBOWJAQKS-UHFFFAOYSA-N triacontan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO REZQBEBOWJAQKS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
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- MWKFXSUHUHTGQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N decan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCO MWKFXSUHUHTGQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycerol group Chemical group OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
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- CDOSHBSSFJOMGT-UHFFFAOYSA-N linalool Chemical compound CC(C)=CCCC(C)(O)C=C CDOSHBSSFJOMGT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
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- KJIOQYGWTQBHNH-UHFFFAOYSA-N undecanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCO KJIOQYGWTQBHNH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
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- FVEWVVDBRQZLSJ-QTWKXRMISA-N 2-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-[3-[[(2r,3s,4r,5r)-2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexanoyl]amino]propyl]azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].OCC[N+](C)(C)CCCNC(=O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FVEWVVDBRQZLSJ-QTWKXRMISA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bromide Chemical compound [Br-] CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 7
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- 125000003438 dodecyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 7
- 125000001421 myristyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 7
- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
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- 125000000022 2-aminoethyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])N([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 6
- WOWHHFRSBJGXCM-UHFFFAOYSA-M cetyltrimethylammonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C WOWHHFRSBJGXCM-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000001117 oleyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])/C([H])=C([H])\C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 6
- 229940012831 stearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000001490 (3R)-3,7-dimethylocta-1,6-dien-3-ol Substances 0.000 claims description 5
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- DIJXCGXVGCADCI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-(docosanoylamino)propyl-trimethylazanium;methyl sulfate Chemical compound COS([O-])(=O)=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCC[N+](C)(C)C DIJXCGXVGCADCI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000003545 alkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 5
- 229940069025 behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- 229930007744 linalool Natural products 0.000 claims description 5
- XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N oleyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCCCO XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 229940055577 oleyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- 229940057402 undecyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- 229920002907 Guar gum Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920000161 Locust bean gum Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940095077 behentrimonium methosulfate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- QIVLQXGSQSFTIF-UHFFFAOYSA-M docosyl(trimethyl)azanium;methyl sulfate Chemical compound COS([O-])(=O)=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C QIVLQXGSQSFTIF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 4
- OEWKLERKHURFTB-UHFFFAOYSA-M hexadecyl(trimethyl)azanium;methyl sulfate Chemical compound COS([O-])(=O)=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C OEWKLERKHURFTB-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 4
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- 125000000956 methoxy group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])O* 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000005846 sugar alcohols Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- ITADNSURISDPLT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-[[[dimethyl(trimethylsilyloxy)silyl]oxy-[3-[2-(2-methoxypropoxy)ethoxy]propyl]-methylsilyl]oxy-methyl-trimethylsilyloxysilyl]propan-1-amine Chemical compound COC(C)COCCOCCC[Si](C)(O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C)O[Si](C)(CCCN)O[Si](C)(C)C ITADNSURISDPLT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- LZZYPRNAOMGNLH-UHFFFAOYSA-M Cetrimonium bromide Chemical compound [Br-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C LZZYPRNAOMGNLH-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 3
- YSJGOMATDFSEED-UHFFFAOYSA-M behentrimonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C YSJGOMATDFSEED-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 3
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- WQMJXFAFCDSZKC-UHFFFAOYSA-M bis(2-hexadecanoyloxyethyl)-(2-hydroxyethyl)-methylazanium;methyl sulfate Chemical compound COS([O-])(=O)=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC[N+](C)(CCO)CCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC WQMJXFAFCDSZKC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 3
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- ZCPCLAPUXMZUCD-UHFFFAOYSA-M dihexadecyl(dimethyl)azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC ZCPCLAPUXMZUCD-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 3
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- 125000000026 trimethylsilyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])[Si]([*])(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 3
- LNAZSHAWQACDHT-XIYTZBAFSA-N (2r,3r,4s,5r,6s)-4,5-dimethoxy-2-(methoxymethyl)-3-[(2s,3r,4s,5r,6r)-3,4,5-trimethoxy-6-(methoxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxy-6-[(2r,3r,4s,5r,6r)-4,5,6-trimethoxy-2-(methoxymethyl)oxan-3-yl]oxyoxane Chemical compound CO[C@@H]1[C@@H](OC)[C@H](OC)[C@@H](COC)O[C@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](OC)[C@@H](OC)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](OC)[C@H](OC)O[C@@H]2COC)OC)O[C@@H]1COC LNAZSHAWQACDHT-XIYTZBAFSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- RPZANUYHRMRTTE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,3,4-trimethoxy-6-(methoxymethyl)-5-[3,4,5-trimethoxy-6-(methoxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxyoxane;1-[[3,4,5-tris(2-hydroxybutoxy)-6-[4,5,6-tris(2-hydroxybutoxy)-2-(2-hydroxybutoxymethyl)oxan-3-yl]oxyoxan-2-yl]methoxy]butan-2-ol Chemical compound COC1C(OC)C(OC)C(COC)OC1OC1C(OC)C(OC)C(OC)OC1COC.CCC(O)COC1C(OCC(O)CC)C(OCC(O)CC)C(COCC(O)CC)OC1OC1C(OCC(O)CC)C(OCC(O)CC)C(OCC(O)CC)OC1COCC(O)CC RPZANUYHRMRTTE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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Classifications
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
- A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
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- A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
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- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
- A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
- A61K2800/5422—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge nonionic
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
- A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
- A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds
Definitions
- the instant disclosure relates to hair treatment compositions that provide improved frizz control, style hold, and conditioning to hair.
- a typical control frizz is the use of leave-on products with surface-depositing materials such as film-formers, oils, conditioning materials etc. These materials make hair more hydrophobic and decrease inter-fiber interactions. At high levels, these materials can provide increased cohesive forces holding fibers together, which slows the development of frizz. However, the high levels required to control frizz make the hair appear greasy and weigh down the hair fibers. If used at low enough levels to avoid weighing down the hair and causing greasiness, the product is not sufficiently cohesive and therefore does not effectively control frizz.
- the instant disclosure relates to hair treatment compositions that provide styling benefits to hair, such as anti-frizz properties, volume control, and conditioning.
- the instant hair treatment compositions are preferably rinsed from the hair prior to styling the hair.
- the hair treatment compositions provide surprisingly long lasting frizz control, styling hold, and conditioning benefits to the hair.
- the hair treatment compositions do not weigh down the hair nor do they impart a greasy or tacky residue on the hair. Instead, the hair is soft, smooth, and natural looking.
- the hair treatment compositions typically include:
- the hair treatment compositions may optionally include, for example, at least one nonionic polymer, at least one cationic polymer, at least one amino silicone, etc.
- the viscosity of the hair treatment compositions may be, for example from about 1700 mPa.s to about 4200 mPa.s; and the pH of the hair treatment compositions is typically less than 7, for example from about 3 to about 5.
- the at least one first cationic surfactant that is an esterquat may be selected from the various esterquats known in the art. In some cases, however, a particularly useful esterquat is selected from compounds of formula (I):
- R1 and R2 are independently a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon moiety comprising 1 1 to 23 carbon atoms; and X- is a cosmetically acceptable counterion.
- a non-limiting and particularly preferred esterquat is bis- (isostearoyl/oleoyl isopropyl) dimonium methosulfate.
- the at least one second cationic surfactant which is not an esterquat may be, for example, a quaternary ammonium compound that is a mono or double chain quaternary ammonium compound independently having about 14 to about 24 carbon atoms in each chain, and a cosmetically acceptable counterion, for example, a counterion selected from chloride, bromide, and methosulfate, preferably methosulfate.
- the hair treatment compositions include at least one silicone oil.
- silicone oils include polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkarylsiloxanes, and polyestersiloxanes. Polyalkylsiloxanes such as dimethicone can be particularly useful.
- esterquat(s), cationic surfactant(s) that is/are not an esterquats, and the silicone oil(s) in the hair treatment compositions contribute to the surprisingly long lasting frizz control, styling hold, and conditioning benefits provided by the hair treatment compositions.
- additional, optional ingredients, such as nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, and/or amino silicones can further enhance the unique and beneficial cosmetic attributes provided by the hair treatment compositions.
- the instant disclosure also encompasses methods for treating hair using the hair treatment compositions.
- the methods include, for example, methods for reducing or preventing frizz, methods for controlling volume and/or maintaining shape, methods for conditioning the hair, etc.
- the methods typically include applying an effective amount of a hair treatment compositions according to the instant disclosure to the hair.
- the hair treatment compositions may be allowed to remain on the hair for a period of time, for example, from about 10 seconds to about 10 minutes, and may be subsequently rinsed from the hair.
- the hair may further dried and styled, as desired.
- FIG. 1 shows the mean frictional force (N) of dry hair that was treated with a hair treatment composition comprising an esterquat and dry hair that was treated with a hair treatment composition without an esterquat;
- FIG. 2 provides pictures and a summary of findings relating to frizz and volume for hair swatches treated with inventive compositions according to the instant disclosure and comparative compositions.
- the instant disclosure relates to hair-treatment compositions and to methods for treating hair using the hair-treatment compositions.
- compositions and methods of the present disclosure can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations set forth in the instant disclosure, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or that are otherwise useful.
- any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
- all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
- a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
- the expression“at least one” is interchangeable with the expression “one or more” and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
- treat refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of hair.
- the term ‘treat” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting hair with the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure.
- compositions described throughout this disclosure may be a“rinse-off” product.
- a “rinse-off” product refers to a composition such as a hair treatment composition that is rinsed and/or washed with water either after or during the application of the composition onto the hair, and before drying and/or styling the hair. At least a portion of the composition is removed from the keratinous substrate during the rinsing and/or washing process.
- compositions described throughout this disclosure may be a“leave-on” product.
- a “leave-on” (also called leave-in) product refers to a hair treatment composition that is applied to hair and is not subjected to immediate rinsing and/or washing for at least 4 hours or for a period of time ranging from 4 hours up to 72 hours, from 4 hours up to 48 hours, or from 8 hours up to 36 hours, or from 8 hours up to 24 hours. In other words, the product is applied to the hair and remains on the hair, as styled.
- compositions may include less than about 1 wt.%, less than about 0.5 wt.%, less than about 0.1 wt.%, less than 0.01 wt.%, or none of the specified material.
- active material as used herein with respect to the percent amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.
- Cosmetically acceptable means that the item in question is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair.
- a“cosmetically acceptable carrier” means a carrier that is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair.
- a mixture thereof may be used following a list of elements as shown in the following example where letters A-F represent the elements:“one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.”
- the term,“a mixture thereof” does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase“one or more elements selected from A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F.”
- the term“a salt thereof” also relates to“salts thereof.”
- the disclosure refers to“an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof,” it indicates that that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.
- the cosmetically acceptable counter-ions mentioned throughout the disclosure may include, for example, an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, methylsulfate, or ammonium counter-ion. This list of counter-ions, however, is non-limiting.
- Constanting means imparting to one or more hair fibers at least one property selected from combability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, sliding and softness.
- the state of conditioning can be evaluated by any means known in the art, such as, for example, measuring, and comparing, the ease of combability or sliding of the treated hair and of the untreated hair in terms of frictional force (N), and consumer perception. It may also be determined as a measure of hydrophobicity, for example, by measuring the contact angle.
- Volatile as used herein, means having a flash point of less than about
- Non-volatile as used herein, means having a flash point of greater than about 100 S C.
- polymers include homopolymers and copolymers formed from at least two different types of monomers.
- compositions of the instant disclosure can optionally be free or essentially free of all components, elements, and steps positively recited throughout the instant disclosure.
- ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
- a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2- 3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
- an overlapping component does not represent more than one component.
- a fatty acid may be characterized as both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound. If a particular composition includes both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound, a single fatty acid will serve as only the nonionic surfactant or only the fatty compound (the single fatty acid does not serve as both the nonionic surfactant and the fatty compound).
- the hair treatment compositions that provide styling benefits to hair, such as anti-frizz properties, volume control, and conditioning.
- the hair treatment compositions do not weigh down the hair nor do they impart a greasy or tacky residue on the hair. Instead, the hair is soft, smooth, and natural looking.
- the hair treatment compositions typically include:
- the first cationic surfactant that is an esterquat may be selected from esterquats known in the art.
- Esterquats can be prepared, for example, by esterifying fatty acids, their methyl esters, or triglycerides with alkanolamines, followed by quaternization of the resultant esteramine with an alkylating agent.
- Non-limiting examples of esterquats include triethanol amine (TEA)-based esterquats and methyl diethanolamine (MDEA)- based esterquats.
- esterquats are preferably selected from compounds of formula (I):
- R1 and R2 are independently a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon moiety comprising 1 1 to 23 carbon atoms; and X- is a cosmetically acceptable counterion.
- cosmetically acceptable counterions include chloride, bromide, and methosulfate. In some instances, especially with respect to esterquats of formulta (i), methosulfate is a preferred counterion.
- R1 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms, especially 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and especially 17 to 18 carbon atoms.
- R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms, especially 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and especially 17 to 18 carbon atoms.
- R1 and R2 comprise the same number of carbon atoms.
- R1 and R2 are the same.
- R2 represents an oleyl group.
- R1 represents an oleyl or stearyl or isostearyl group.
- R1 and R2 are both oleyl.
- R1 represents a stearyl group or an isostearyl group and R2 represents an oleyl group.
- the hair treatment compositions may include a mixture of esterquats of formula (I).
- the hair treatment compositions may include a mixture of esterquats of formula (I) in which R1 and R2 independently comprise 15 to 19, in particular 17 or 18, carbon atoms, and only one double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds.
- the acyl groups may be derived from unsaturated carboxylic fatty acids which may comprise 12 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 14 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular 16 at 20 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of oleic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid.
- the fatty acids may be of natural, plant or animal origin; in particular, they may be derived from vegetable oils, for example olein, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil or tall oil (pine oil).
- the acyl group -C(0)R may also be derived from unsaturated carboxylic fatty acids which may comprise 12 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 14 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 20 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of isostearic acid, palmitic acid and arachidic acid.
- the acyl group -C(0)R may also be derived from unsaturated carboxylic fatty acids which may comprise 12 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 14 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 20 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of isostearic acid, palmitic acid and arachidic acid.
- X- is an anion of the halide (chloride, iodide or bromide), phosphate, acetate, lactate, sulfate or (C1 -C4) alkyl sulfate type, in particular methylsulphate or ethylsulphate; (C1 -C4) alkyl sulphonate or (C1 -C4) alkyl aryl sulphonate.
- halide chloride, iodide or bromide
- phosphate acetate, lactate, sulfate or (C1 -C4) alkyl sulfate type, in particular methylsulphate or ethylsulphate;
- C1 -C4) alkyl sulphonate or (C1 -C4) alkyl aryl sulphonate chloride, iodide or bromide
- the compounds of formula (I) may be prepared by esterification of alkanolamines, and in particular of methyldiisopropanolamine (MDIA), and unsaturated carboxylic fatty acids, for example in a molar ratio ranging from 1 :1 .6 to 1 :2, the esterification being followed by a quaternization.
- MDIA methyldiisopropanolamine
- the proportion of unsaturated fraction in these natural fatty acids can be adjusted so as to have an iodine number of between 40 and 160, especially between 80 and 150, which is the case for the vegetable oils mentioned above.
- the esterification can be carried out by any known means, in particular in the presence of a catalyst such as methanesulfonic acid, preferably in an inert atmosphere (nitrogen for example), preferably at a temperature of 160-240°C.
- a catalyst such as methanesulfonic acid
- the quaternization can be carried out by any known means, for example in a solvent such as ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, preferably at a temperature of 60-90°C, by adding a quantity equimolar quaternizing agent, especially with stirring.
- Quaternizing agents that may be mentioned include organic or inorganic quaternizing agents such as short-chain dialkyl sulphates or phosphates, in particular dimethyl sulphate and dimethyl phosphate, or short-chain halogenated hydrocarbons such as methyl chloride.
- organic or inorganic quaternizing agents such as short-chain dialkyl sulphates or phosphates, in particular dimethyl sulphate and dimethyl phosphate, or short-chain halogenated hydrocarbons such as methyl chloride.
- Such quaternary ammonium compounds are in particular described in US Patent No. 6,653,275, US20140286889, and European Patent No. EP240727, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
- esterquat is bis-(isostearoyl/oleoyl isopropyl) dimonium methosulfate commercially available as VARISOFT EQ 100.
- esterquats that may be useful include those of the formula below:
- R 4 is an aliphatic hydrocarbon group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms
- R2 and R3, are, each independently, (CH2) S -R5, wherein Rs is an alkoxy carbonyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, benzyl, phenyl, C1-C4 alkyl substituted phenyl, OH or H
- R1 is (CH2)t-R6, wherein R6 is benzyl, phenyl, C1-C4 alkyl substituted phenyl, OH or H
- q, s, and t are, each independently, an integer from 1 to 3
- X- is a cosmetically acceptable anion.
- the total amount of the first cationic surfactant(s) can vary but is typically about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In some cases, the total amount of the first cationic surfactant(s) (i.e., the esterquat(s)) may be about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 to about 6 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%, or about 1 to about 4 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the second cationic surfactant(s) may be selected from those known in the art.
- Non-limiting examples include quaternary ammonium-type cationic surfactants.
- the second cationic surfactant(s) may be selected from mono and double chain quaternary ammonium compounds independently having from about 14 to about 24 carbon atoms in each chain, and a counterion selected from chloride, bromide, and methosulfate (preferably methosulfate).
- Non-limiting examples include cetrimonium chloride, cetrimonium methosulfate, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dicetyldimonium chloride, and a mixture thereof.
- the total amount of the second cationic surfactant(s) in the hair treatment compositions can vary but is typically about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In some instances, the total amount of the second cationic surfactant(s) in the hair treatment composition may be about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 to about 6 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%, or about 1 to about 4 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- amino silicones are not considered a“silicone oil.” Instead, amino silicones form an independent category of component that may optionally be included in the hair treatment compositions. A more detailed definition and non-limiting examples of amino silicones are provided later, under the heading“Amino Silicone.”
- Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkarylsiloxanes, polyestersiloxanes, polyphenylsiloxanes and a mixture thereof.
- the silicone oil is preferably water insoluble at room temperature.
- non-volatile, non-phenyl silicone oils which may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinylmethyl methicones; and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups. It should be noted that "dimethicone” (INCI name) corresponds to a poly(dimethylsiloxane) (chemical name), which is particularly preferred in some instances.
- the silicone oils are preferably chosen from non-volatile dimethicone oils. In particular, these oils can be chosen from the following non-volatile oils:
- PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
- PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms.
- alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms.
- PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,
- non-volatile and non-phenyl silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones and also PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, in particular C2-C24 alkyl groups.
- the silicone oil may be chosen from silicones of the following formula:
- Ri , R2, R5 and R6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- Rs and R 4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, or a hydroxyl radical,
- X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl radical n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular of which the viscosity at 25°C is between 1 centistokes (cSt) and 1 ,000,000(cSt).
- non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those for which:
- the substituents Ri to Fte and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt, for example the product sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt by the company Dow Corning,
- the substituents Ri to R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60 000 CS by the company Dow Corning, and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker,
- the substituents Ri to R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 100 cSt or 350 cSt, for example the products sold respectively under the names Belsil DM100 and Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning,
- the substituents Ri to R6 represent a methyl group
- the group X represents a hydroxyl group
- n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid TO.7 by the company Momentive.
- the hair treatment compositions include two or more silicone oils, for example, two or more silicone oils selected from polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkarylsiloxanes, polyestersiloxanes, and a mixture thereof.
- the two or more silicone oils are preferably two or more silicone oils selected from polyalkylsiloxanes ( e.g ., dimethicones). It is especially useful to include two or more silicone oils wherein at least one silicone oil has a viscosity of about 1 to 1000 centistokes and at least one silicone oil has a viscosity greater than 1000 to about 1 ,000,000 centistokes at 25°C.
- Centistokes is a standard unit used in the silicone industry for characterizing silicone oils because it is a representation of cinematic viscosity, which provides a better description of the behavior of silicone oils, as opposed to a dynamic viscosity (often represented by mPa.s).
- the viscosity of the silicone oils can be determined by methods known in the art, for example, using the Stokes viscosity or even a rotational viscometer.
- the silicone oils having a viscosity of about 5 to 1000 cSt may also have a viscosity of about 50 to about 1000 cSt, about 100 to about 1000 cSt, about 50 to about 750 cSt, about 100 to about 750 cSt, about 50 to about 500 cSt, about 100 to about 500 cSt, about 150 to about 500 cSt, about 200 to about 500 cSt, or about 350 cSt, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the total amount of silicone oil(s) in the hair treatment compositions having a viscosity of about 5 to 1000 cSt can vary but is typically about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In some instances, the total amount of silicone oil(s) having a viscosity of about 5 to 1000 cSt is about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%, about 1 wt.%, about 2 wt.%, about 3 wt.%, about 4 wt.%, or about 5 wt.%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the silicone oils having a viscosity of greater than 1000 to about 1 ,000,000 cSt may have a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 1 ,000,000 cSt, about 10,000 to about 750,000 cSt, about 10,000 to about 500,000 cSt, about 10,000 to about 300,000 cSt., about 10,000 to about 150,000 cSt, about 25,000 to about 750,000 cSt, about 25,000 to about 500,000 cSt, about 25,000 to about 300,000 cSt, about 25,000 to about 150,000 cSt., about 25,000 to about 100,00 cSt, or about 60,000 cSt, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the total amount of silicone oil(s) in the hair treatment compositions having a viscosity of greater than 1000 to about 1 ,000,000 cSt can vary but is typically about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
- the total amount of silicone oil(s) having a viscosity of greater than 1000 to about 1 ,000,000 cSt is about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%, about 1 wt.%, about 2 wt.%, about 3 wt.%, about 4 wt.%, or about 5 wt.%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the hair treatment compositions include at least one silicone oil having a viscosity of about 5 to 1000 cSt and at least one silicone oil having a viscosity of greater than 1000 to about 1 ,000,000 cSt
- the weight ratio of the silicone oil having a viscosity of about 5 to 1000 cSt to the silicone oil having a viscosity of greater than 1000 to about 1 ,000,000 cSt can vary but is typically about 4:1 to about 1 :4. In some instances, the weight ratio is about 3:1 to about 1 :3, about 2:1 to about 1 :2, or about 1 :1 .
- the total amount of all silicone oil(s) (except for the optional amino silicone, which is not considered a silicone oil according to the instant disclosure) in the hair treatment compositions can vary but is typically about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
- the total amount of silicone oil(s) may be about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 to about 6 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%, or about 1 to about 4 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- fatty alcohol means an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylenated) nor glycerolated.
- the fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, wherein R denotes a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, linear or branched, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
- the fatty alcohol(s) may be liquid or solid.
- the hair treatment compositions include at least one solid fatty alcohol.
- the solid fatty alcohols that can be used include those that are solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, that is to say they have a water solubility of less than 1 % by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.
- the solid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, wherein R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
- the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
- the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol.
- R does not contain a hydroxyl group.
- oleic alcohol linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1 -dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl- 1 - decanol, 2-decyl-1 -tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1 -cetanol and mixtures thereof.
- the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1 -dodecanol.
- the hair treatment compositions include one or more fatty alcohols selected from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl, myristyl, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.
- the hair treatment compositions preferably include cetearyl alcohol.
- the total amount of fatty alcohol(s) in the hair treatment compositions can vary but is typically about 0.1 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment compositions.
- the total amount of fatty alcohol(s) may be about 0.1 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 20 wt.%, about 1 to about 15 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 2 to about 20 wt.%, about 2 to about 15 wt.%, about 2 to about 10 wt.%, about 2 wt.%, about 3 wt.%, about 4 wt.%, about 5 wt.%, about 6 wt.%, about 7 wt.%, about 8 wt.%, or about 9 wt.%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the total amount of water in the hair treatment compositions may vary but is typically about 50 to about 95 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In some instances, the total amount of water is about 50 to about 90 wt.%, about 50 to about 85 wt.%, about 60 to about 95 wt.%, about 60 to about 90 wt.%, about 60 to about 85 wt.%, about 70 to about 95 wt.%, about 70 to about 90 wt.%, about 70 to about 85 wt.%, about 75 to about 95 wt.%, about 75 to about 90 wt.%, about 75 to about 85 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- Non-limiting examples of nonionic polymers include, cyamopsis tetragonoloba (guar) gum, hydroxypropyl guar, sclerotium gum, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutylmethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch, polymers of ethylene oxide (e.g., PEG-20, PEG-150, PEG-18, PEG14, PEG-90M, etc.), and mixtures thereof.
- ethylene oxide e.g., PEG-20, PEG-150, PEG-18, PEG14, PEG-90M, etc.
- the nonionic polymers are selected from hydrophobically-modified starch compounds.
- Suitable starch compounds include plant- based and may be produced, for example, from corn, wheat, rice, tapioca, potatoes and/or sago.
- hydrophobic modification means chemical cross-linking, for example by employing ionic cross-linking with calcium, aluminum and/or phosphates, and/or chemical modification by introducing hydrophobic groups.
- Exemplary hydrophobic groups are nonionic radicals such as hydroxyalkyl groups, wherein exemplary "hydroxyalkyl groups" are hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and/or hydroxybutyl groups.
- Non limiting examples of starch compounds are cross-linked and carry hydrophobic, non-ionic substitutes, such as hydroxypropyl groups.
- Exemplary starch compounds are the hydrophobically-modified starch compounds known under the INCI trade names of hydroxyethyl starch phosphate and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. In some instances, a particularly preferred compound is hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.
- the nonionic polymers are selected from polyethylene glycols.
- polyethylene glycols include PEG-4, PEG- 6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 PEG-20, PEG- 32, PEG-33, PEG-40, PEG-45, PEG-55, PEG-60, PEG-75, PEG-80, PEG-90, PEG-100, PEG-135, PEG-150, PEG-180, PEG-200, PEG-220, PEG-240, PEG-350, PEG-400, PEG-500, PEG-800, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG- 23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M, PEG-90M, PEG-1 15M, PEG-160M, PEG-180M, and mixtures thereof.
- the total amount of nonionic polymer(s) in the hair treatment compositions can vary but is typically about 0.01 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In some instances, the total amount of the nonionic polymer(s) is about 0.01 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 1 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 1 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.%, about 0.2 wt.%, about 0.5 wt.%, or about 1 wt.%, including all ranges and
- the cationic polymers may be homopolymers or formed from two or more types of monomers.
- the molecular weight of the polymer may be between 5,000 and 10,000,000, typically at least 10,000, and preferably in the range 100,000 to about 2,000,000.
- These polymers will typically have cationic nitrogen containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or a mixture thereof.
- the cationic charge density is suitably at least 0.1 meq/g, preferably above 0.8 or higher. In some instances, the cationic charge density does not exceed 3 meq/g, or does not exceed 2 meq/g.
- the charge density can be measured using the Kjeldahl method and can be within the above limits at the desired pH of use, which will in general be from about 3 to 9 and preferably between 4 and 8.
- the cationic nitrogen-containing group will generally be present as a substituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic conditioning polymer. Thus when the polymer is not a homopolymer it can contain spacer non-cationic monomer units.
- Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers include copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth)acrylamides, alkyl (meth)acrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine.
- the alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C1 -C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 -C3 alkyl groups.
- Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.
- the cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition.
- Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized in the amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.
- Suitable cationic amino and quaternary ammonium monomers include, for example, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkyl amincalkyl acrylate, dialkylamino alkylmethacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts, and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen-containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium, and quaternized pyrrolidine, e.g., alkyl vinyl imidazolium, and quaternized pyrrolidine, e.g., alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinyl pyridinium, alkyl vinyl pyrrolidine salts.
- cyclic cationic nitrogen-containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium
- the alkyl portions of these monomers are preferably lower alkyls such as the C1 -C3 alkyls, more preferably C1 and C2 alkyls.
- Suitable amine-substituted vinyl monomers include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide, and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably Ci -C7 hydrocarbyls, more preferably C1 -C3, alkyls.
- the cationic conditioning polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.
- Suitable cationic conditioning polymers include, for example: copolymers of 1 -vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and 1 -vinyl-3-methyl-imidazolium salt (e.g., Chloride salt) (referred to as Polyquaternium-16) such as those commercially available from BASF under the LUVIQUAT tradename (e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of 1 -vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to as Polyquaternium-1 1 ) such as those commercially from Gar Corporation (Wayne, N.J., USA) under the GAFQUAT tradename (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N); and cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymer including, for example, dimethyldiallyammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride (referred to as Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-7).
- cationic conditioning polymers that can be used include polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives.
- Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) in their Polymer JR (trade mark) and LR (trade mark) series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide (referred to as Polyquaternium-10).
- Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide (referred to as Polyquaternium-24). These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) under the tradename Polymer LM- 200.
- cationic polymers that can be used include cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
- Polyquaterniums include Polyquaternium-1 (ethanol, 2, 2', 2 ' ' -nitrilotris-, polymer with 1 ,4-dichloro-2-butene and N,N,N',N'-tetramethyl-2-butene-1 ,4-diamine), Polyquaternium-2, (poly[bis(2-chloroethyl) ether-alt-1 ,3-bis[3-
- Polyquaternium-4 (hydroxyethyl cellulose dimethyl diallylammonium chloride copolymer; Diallyldimethylammonium chloride-hydroxyethyl cellulose copolymer), Polyquaternium-5 (copolymer of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylammoniumethyl methacrylate), polyquaternium-6 (poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride)), Polyquaternium-7 (copolymer of acrylamide and diallyldimethylammonium chloride), Polyquaternium-8 (copolymer of methyl and stearyl dimethylaminoethyl ester of methacrylic acid, quaternized with dimethylsulphate), Polyquaternium-9 (homopolymer of N,N-(dimethylamino)ethyl ester of methacrylic acid, quaternized with bromomethane), Polyquaternium-10 (quaternized hydroxye
- Polyquaternium-43 copolymer of acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, 2- amidopropylacrylamide sulfonate and dimethylaminopropylamine
- Polyquaternium-44 (3- Methyl-1 -vinylimidazolium methyl sulfate-N-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer)
- Polyquaternium- 45 copolymer of (N-methyl-N-ethoxyglycine)methacrylate and N,N- dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, quaternized with dimethyl sulphate
- Polyquaternium-46 terpolymer of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, and quaternized vinylimidazole
- Polyquaternium-47 terpolymer of acrylic acid, methacrylamidopropyl tri
- the hair treatment compositions include one or more cationic polymers selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (e.g., polyquaternium-10), cationic starch derivatives, cationic guar gum derivatives, copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride (e.g., polyquaternium-7), polyquaterniums, and a mixture thereof.
- cationic polymers selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (e.g., polyquaternium-10), cationic starch derivatives, cationic guar gum derivatives, copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride (e.g., polyquaternium-7), polyquaterniums, and a mixture thereof.
- the cationic polymer(s) are selected from polyquaterniums, for example, polyquaterniums selected from polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-72, and a mixture thereof.
- the polyquaterniums are selected from polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, and a mixture thereof.
- the cationic polymers are selected from cationic polysaccharides, for example, cationic polysaccharides selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, cationic guar derivatives, cationic locust bean gum derivatives, and a mixture thereof.
- the hair treatment compositions preferably include at last one cationic cellulose derivative selected from polyquaternium- 4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-67 and/or polyquaternium-72, and a mixture thereof. Polyquaternium-10 is particularly useful.
- the total amount of cationic polymer(s) in the hair treatment compositions can vary but is typically about 0.01 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In some instances, the total amount of the cationic polymer(s) is about 0.01 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 1 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 1 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.%, about 0.2 wt.%, about 0.5 wt.%, or about 1 wt.%, including all ranges and
- an“amino silicone” is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group (/.e., a quaternized group).
- an“amino silicone” is not a “silicone oil.” Instead, an amino silicone is different component than a silicone oil in the hair treatment compositions of the instant disclosure.
- silicone oils are provided above, under the heading“Silicone Oil.”
- Non-limiting examples include amodimethicone, silicone quaternium-22, trimethylsilyl amodimethicone , bis-isobutyl/PEG/PPG-20/35/amodimethicone copolymer, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis-amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer, bis-isobutyl/PEG/PPG-20/35/amodimethicone copolymer, quaternium-80, methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 aminopropyl dimethicone, silicone quaternium-22 , bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG- amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dime
- x’ and y’ are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is comprised between about 5000 and 500 000;
- G which may be identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or Ci-Cs alkyl group, for example methyl, or Ci-Cs alkoxy, for example methoxy,
- a which may be identical or different, denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0;
- b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ;
- n and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
- R' which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent radical having formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:
- R which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a Ci-C 2 o alkyl radical
- Q denotes a linear or branched CrH 2r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4
- A- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
- a group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone” having formula (C):
- n and m have the meanings given above, in formula B.
- n and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;
- Ri , R2, R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 denotes an alkoxy radical.
- the alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.
- the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly equals 0.3:1 .
- the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2000 to 1 000 000, more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.
- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, particularly from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; it being possible for p to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and for q to denote a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;
- Ri , Fte which may be the same or different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals R1 or R2 denotes an alkoxy radical.
- the alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.
- the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges generally from 1 :0.8 to 1 :1 .1 and preferably from 1 :0.9 to 1 :1 and more particularly equals 1 :0.95.
- the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2000 to 200 000, even more particularly 5000 to 100 000 and more particularly from 10 000 to 50 000.
- Commercial products corresponding to these silicones having structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different than formulae (D) or (E).
- a product containing amino silicones having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name FLUID WR 1300.
- the oil-in water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants.
- the surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic.
- the number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometres.
- microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometres (limits included) and more preferably from 10 nm to 50 nanometres (limits included).
- microemulsions of amino silicone having formula (E) sold as Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by Wacker can be used.
- Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (F):
- n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to
- n denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149
- m denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
- the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones ranges preferably from 2000 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.
- a preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the tradename XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.
- n and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
- the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones ranges preferably from 500 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200 000.
- a silicone having this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid by Dow
- R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
- R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
- Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);
- r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;
- R7 which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci- Ci8 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
- R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
- Re which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1 -C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;
- X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);
- r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;
- R1 , R2, R3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote a C1- C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group;
- R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group
- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;
- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;
- multiblockpolyoxyalkylenated amino silicones of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.
- Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units having the following general formulae:
- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1 , preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
- b is an integer comprised between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between from 5 and 30;
- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000, more particularly from 10 to
- R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl
- R which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a - CH2CH2CH20CH(0H)CH2- radical; preferentially R denotes a CH2CH2CH20CH(0H)CH 2 - radical;
- R' which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a - CH2CH2CH20CH(0H)CH2- radical; preferentially R' denotes -CH(CH 3 )-CH2-.
- the siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.
- the amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0,05 and 0,2.
- the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone oil is preferably comprised between 5,000 and 1 ,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.
- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;
- Ri and R2 which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms
- A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made especially of the following divalent radicals: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH 3 )CH2-.
- R1 and R2 which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; and preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.
- the silicone oil is of formula (K) with:
- x ranging from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to 1000;
- A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly A is chosen from the following divalent radicals: CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH 3 )CH2-; and
- R1 and R2 which may be identical or different, being linear, saturated alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.
- a preferred silicone oil of formula (K) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone (INCI name).
- amodimethicone sold under the tradename of KF 8020 by Shin Etsu.
- This amodimethicone (formula (L)) is a particularly preferred amino silicone with INCI name of amodimethicone.
- R OH or CH3
- X represents the propyl, isopropyl, or isobutyl group.
- silicone oils with at least one quaternary ammonium group Suitable non-limiting examples are quaternium 80, silicone quaternium-1 , silicone quaternium-2, silicone quaternium-2 panthenol succinate, silicone quaternium-3, silicone quaternium-4, silicone quaternium-5, silicone quaternium-6, silicone quaternium-7, silicone quaternium- 8, silicone quaternium-9, silicone quaternium-10, silicone quaternium-1 1 , silicone quaternium-12, silicone quaternium-15, silicone quaternium-16, silicone quaternium- 16/Glycidoxy Dimethicone Crosspolymer, silicone quaternium-17, silicone quaternium-18, silicone quaternium-20 and silicone quaternium-21 .
- quaternium 80 silicone quaternium-16, silicone quaternium-18, silicone quaternium-1 , silicone quaternium-2, silicone quaternium-3, silicone quaternium-4, silicone quaternium-5, silicone quaternium- 6, silicone quaternium-7, silicone quaternium-8, silicone quaternium-9, silicone quaternium-10, silicone quaternium-1 1 , silicone quaternium-12, silicone quaternium-15, silicone quaternium-17, silicone quaternium-20 and silicone quaternium-21 .
- quaternium 80 silicone quaternium-16, silicone quaternium-18, silicone quaternium-3, silicone quaternium-4, silicone quaternium-5, silicone quaternium-6, silicone quaternium-7, silicone quaternium-8, silicone quaternium-9, silicone quaternium- 10, silicone quaternium-1 1 , silicone quaternium-12, silicone quaternium-15, and silicone quaternium-17.
- the one or more silicone oils of the present disclosure is an amino silicone oil such as amodimethicone.
- the total amount of amino silicone(s) in the hair treatment compositions can vary but is typically about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In some cases, the total amount of amino silicone(s) is about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 wt.%, about 0.6 wt.%, about 0.7 wt.%, about 0.8 wt.%, about 0.9 wt.%, about 1 wt.%, about 1 .2 wt.%, about 1 .5 wt.%, about 1 .7 wt.%, or about 2 wt.%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the hair-treatment compositions may optionally include one or more water- soluble solvents.
- water-soluble solvent is interchangeable with the term“water- miscible solvent” and means a compound that is liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and it has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%.
- Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (for example, C1-15, C1-10, or C1 -6 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols (e.g., butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), and a mixture thereof.
- Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
- Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin.
- the organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.
- water-soluble solvents include alkanediols such as glycerin, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1 ,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1 ,2-hexanediol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1 ,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl;
- Polyhydric alcohols are useful.
- examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1 ,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 3- methyl-1 ,3-butanediol, 1 ,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1 ,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl- 2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture thereof.
- Polyol compounds may also be used.
- Non-limiting examples include the aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1 ,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl- 1 ,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5- dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1 ,2-diol, and 2-ethyl-1 ,3-hexanediol, and a mixture thereof.
- the total amount of water-soluble solvent(s) in the hair treatment composition can vary but is typically about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In some cases, the total amount of water- soluble solvent(s) is about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 1 wt.%, about 2 wt.%, about 3 wt.%, or about 4 wt.%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the viscosity of the hair treatment compositions can vary but is typically from about 1000 mPa.s to about 5000 mPa.s at 25°C. In some cases, the viscosity may be from about 1700 mPa.s to about 4200 mPa.s, from about 1500 mPa.s to about 4000 mPa.s, from about 1800 mPa.s to about 3600 mPa.s, or from about 2000 mPa.s to about 3200 mPa.s at 25°C.
- the viscosity measurements can be carried out, for example, using a Brookfield viscometer/rheometer using a RV-3 Disk spindle at a speed of 5, 10, 15, and/or 20 rpm or using a Rheomat (Rheomat® 200 by Lamy Rheology Instruments, spindle #3, 30s, 200 rpm, at 25°C.
- the pH of the hair treatment compositions can vary but is typically less than 7. In some cases, the pH is from about 3 to about 6, from about 3 to about 5.5, from about 3 to about 5, from about 3.5 to about 6, from about 3.5 to about 5.5, or from about 3.5 to about 5.
- the hair treatment compositions is not limited.
- the hair treatment compositions may be in the form of a cream, a gel, a paste, a lotion, a rinse, a foam, an emulsion, a spray, etc.
- the hair treatment compositions are preferably in the form of a cream, gel, or lotion.
- the hair treatment compositions of the instant disclosure are useful in methods for treating hair, especially human hair of the head (although the hair of the eyebrows and eyelashes may be excluded).
- the methods include, for example, methods for reducing or preventing frizz, methods for controlling volume and/or maintaining shape, methods for conditioning the hair, etc.
- the methods typically include applying an effective amount of a hair treatment composition to the hair.
- the hair treatment composition may be allowed to remain on the hair for a period of time, for example, from about 10 seconds to about 10 minutes, and may subsequently be rinsed from the hair.
- the hair treatment composition may be allowed to remain on the hair for about 10 seconds to about 5 minutes, about 10 seconds to about 4 minutes, about 10 seconds to about 3 minutes, about 30 seconds to about 10 minutes, about 30 seconds to about 5 minutes, about 30 seconds to about 4 minutes, about 30 seconds to about 3 minutes, about 1 minutes to about 10 minutes, about 1 minute to about 5 minutes, about 1 minute to about 4 minutes or about 1 minute to about 3 minutes.
- the hair may optionally be dried, for example with a blow drying or hot iron, and optionally styled.
- the hair treatment compositions of the instant disclosure include:
- R1 and R2 are independently a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon moiety comprising 1 1 to 23 carbon atoms; and X- is a cosmetically acceptable counterion;
- the optional nonionic polymer(s), cationic polymer(s), and amino silicone(s) may be selected from those described throughout the instant disclosure.
- the hair treatment compositions of the above embodiment can be modified, may include additional components, and can be used in methods, as described throughout the instant disclosure.
- the hair treatment compositions of the instant disclosure include:
- R1 and R2 are independently a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon moiety comprising 1 1 to 23 carbon atoms, and X- is a cosmetically acceptable counterion; preferably R1 and R2 are independently a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon moiety comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms and comprise at least one double bond, even more preferably, R1 and R2 are independently oleyl or stearyl;
- (c)(ii) about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, more preferably about 1 to about 5 wt.% of at least one polyalkylsiloxane, such as a dimethicone, having a viscosity of about 1000 to 1 ,000,000 centistokes, preferably about 10,000 to about 600,000 centistokes, more preferably about 25,000 to about 500,000 centistokes; wherein the weight ratio of (c)(i) to (c)(ii) is about 4:1 to about 1 :4, preferably about 3:1 to about 1 :3, more preferably about 2:1 to about 1 :2;
- At least one cationic polysaccharide for example at least one cationic polysaccharide selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, cationic guar derivatives, cationic locust bean gum derivatives, and a mixture thereof, preferably at least one cationic cellulose derivative selected from polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-72, and a mixture thereof; and
- hair treatment compositions of the above embodiment can be modified, may include additional components, and can be used in methods, as described throughout the instant disclosure.
- the hair treatment compositions include:
- At least one cationic polysaccharide for example at least one cationic polysaccharide selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, cationic guar derivatives, cationic locust bean gum derivatives, and a mixture thereof, preferably at least one cationic cellulose derivative selected from polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-67 and/or polyquaternium-72, and a mixture thereof; and
- hair treatment compositions of the above embodiment can be modified, may include additional components, and can be used in methods, as described throughout the instant disclosure.
- BIS-(ISOSTEAROYL/ OLEOYL ISOPROPYL) DIMONIUM METHOSULFATE has the tradename VARISOFT EQ 100, and is available from the supplier EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT EXAMPLE 2
- Comparative Composition X of Example 1 is identical to Inventive Composition A of Example 1 , except that Comparative Composition X does not include an esterquat.
- Medium bleached Caucasian hair swatches that weighed 1 gram and were 27 cm long were treated with either Comparative Composition X or Inventive Composition A, according to the following protocol.
- Comparative Composition X or Inventive Composition A was applied to hair swatches. After rinsing the hair swatches with water, the hair swatches were subjected to instrumental testing using a sliding machine to determine the mean frictional force.
- the mean frictional force is a measurement of the smoothness and slipperiness of hair. Less frictional force indicates that there are less up-lifted cuticle due the neutralization of free anionic charges by the cationic surfactant. The hair is therefore perceived by consumers as a smoother and slipperier hair (more conditioned).
- a sliding machine measures the force needed to make a hair swatch slide between 2 others. The average force is calculated and the evolution of the sliding force is recorded to quantify the surface state (homogeneous or heterogeneous) along the swatch. The more homogeneous the surface, the smoother the hair and therefore the less force is required for sliding. The results are presented in the table below and are graphically presented in FIG. 1 .
- compositions containing an esterquat in the compositions of the instant disclosure provide significantly better conditioning properties to hair (e.g., smoothness and slipperiness) compared to compositions without an esterquat.
- Inventive Composition B in the table below is identical to Inventive Composition B in Example 1 .
- Inventive Composition B-1 is identical to Inventive Composition B except that is includes lower amounts of silicone oils than Inventive Composition B.
- Comparative Composition X-1 does not include silicone oils.
- Comparative Compositions X-2 and X-3 each include an aminosilicone (amodimethicone or silicone quaternium-22).
- Comparative Composition X-4 includes only one silicone oil, which had a viscosity of greater than 1000 to about 1 ,000,000 cSt (dimethicone (60,000 CST))
- VARISOFT EQ 100 Medium bleached Caucasian hair swatches that weighed 1 gram and were 27 cm long were treated with the compositions presented in the table above, according to the following protocol. The compositions were applied to the hair swatches, rinsed with water, and allowed to dry at room temperature for 24 hours (about 23°C and about 58% relative humidity).
- the hair swatches treated with Inventive Composition B and Inventive Composition B-1 exhibited the least amount of frizz (low frizz and medium frizz).
- the hair swatches treated with Comparative Compositions X-1 , X-2, X-3, and X-4 exhibited high frizz.
- Inventive Composition B does not include a cationic polymer and Inventive Composition H does (polyquaternium- 10).
- Inventive Composition B or H were applied to the hair swatches, rinsed with water, and subjected to instrumental testing using a sliding machine to determine the mean frictional force.
- the mean frictional force is a measurement of the smoothness and slipperiness of hair. Less frictional force indicates that the hair is smoother and slipperier (more conditioned).
- a sliding machine measures the force needed to make a hair swatch slide between 2 others. The average force is calculated and the evolution of the sliding force is recorded to quantify the surface state (homogeneous or heterogeneous) along the swatch. The more homogeneous the surface, the smoother the hair and therefore the less force is required for sliding. The results are presented in the table below.
- composition H which includes a cationic polymer (polyquaternium-10) resulted in a significantly lower frictional force.
- Inventive Composition H which includes a cationic polymer (polyquaternium-10) resulted in a significantly lower frictional force.
- invention compositions containing cationic polymers provide significantly better conditioning properties to hair (e.g ., smoothness and slipperiness) than without the cationic polymer.
- Inventive Composition B does not include a nonionic polymer and Inventive Composition E does (hydroxypropyl starch phosphate).
- Inventive Composition B and E were applied to hair swatches, the hair swatches were rinsed with water, and subjected to instrumental testing using a sliding machine to determine the mean frictional force while wet. The hair swatches were then allowed to dry at room temperature for 24 hours (about 23°C and about 58% relative humidity) and were again subjected to instrumental testing to determine the mean frictional force while dry.
- the mean frictional force is a measurement of the smoothness and slipperiness of hair. Less frictional force indicates that the hair is smoother and slipperier (more conditioned).
- a sliding machine measures the force needed to make a hair swatch slide between 2 others. The average force is calculated and the evolution of the sliding force is recorded to quantify the surface state (homogeneous or heterogeneous) along the swatch. The more homogeneous the surface, the smoother the hair and therefore the less force is required for sliding. The results are presented in the table below.
- composition E which included a nonionic polymer (hydroxypropyl starch phosphate), exhibited a significantly lower frictional force.
- nonionic polymer hydroxypropyl starch phosphate
- invention compositions containing nonionic polymers provide significantly better conditioning properties to hair (e.g ., smoothness and slipperiness) than without nonionic polymers, especially with respect to wet hair.
- Inventive Compositions B-H were subjected to salon testing and to wet and dry frictional force testing described above in Examples 5 and 6.
- salon testing 6 volunteers were treated with Inventive Compositions B-H on half the head of hair. The other half of the head of hair was treated with a reference composition.
- experts evaluated the condition of the hair (wet and dry) for a variety of cosmetic attributes. If a composition performed better than the reference composition for a particular cosmetic characteristic, this is shown with a“+”.
- compositions B and E were also conducted to test the invention compositions B and E and attributes of softness, hydration, perception of immediate repair, and shine were observed.
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Abstract
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (2)
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PCT/BR2018/050358 WO2020061658A1 (en) | 2018-09-28 | 2018-09-28 | Hair treatment compositions comprising an esterquat |
BR112020026824A BR112020026824A2 (en) | 2018-09-28 | 2018-09-28 | Hair care combinations and hair care method |
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PCT/BR2018/050358 WO2020061658A1 (en) | 2018-09-28 | 2018-09-28 | Hair treatment compositions comprising an esterquat |
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FR3109883A1 (en) * | 2020-05-07 | 2021-11-12 | L'oreal | HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITIONS |
US20220054385A1 (en) * | 2019-02-08 | 2022-02-24 | Kao Corporation | Composition and process for reducing the drying time of solid substrates |
FR3117864A1 (en) * | 2020-12-21 | 2022-06-24 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising an amino silicone, a non-amino silicone, an associative polymer and a non-associative polysaccharide; and method of cosmetic treatment |
FR3117865A1 (en) * | 2020-12-21 | 2022-06-24 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising a silicone, a starch and at least 3% polyol, and method of cosmetic treatment |
FR3117863A1 (en) * | 2020-12-21 | 2022-06-24 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising an amino silicone, a non-amino silicone and a nonionic associative polymer, and method of cosmetic treatment |
WO2022135887A1 (en) | 2020-12-21 | 2022-06-30 | Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. | Hair conditioning composition for improved deposition |
WO2022135858A1 (en) | 2020-12-21 | 2022-06-30 | Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. | Hair conditioning composition for improved deposition |
WO2022135871A1 (en) | 2020-12-21 | 2022-06-30 | Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. | Hair conditioning composition for improved deposition |
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FR3117864A1 (en) * | 2020-12-21 | 2022-06-24 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising an amino silicone, a non-amino silicone, an associative polymer and a non-associative polysaccharide; and method of cosmetic treatment |
EP4342444A1 (en) * | 2022-09-21 | 2024-03-27 | Wella Germany GmbH | Conditioner with improved manageability |
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FR3145684A1 (en) * | 2023-02-10 | 2024-08-16 | L'oreal | OXIDIZING COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SPECIFIC CATIONIC SURFACTANT |
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