WO2020058923A1

WO2020058923A1 - Anti-wrinkle composition

Info

Publication number: WO2020058923A1
Application number: PCT/IB2019/057965
Authority: WO
Inventors: Camilla D'ANTONIO
Original assignee: Medspa S.R.L.
Priority date: 2018-09-20
Filing date: 2019-09-20
Publication date: 2020-03-26
Also published as: EP3852714A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising acetyl sh-heptapeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, and extract of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) kernels. The present invention further relates to a formulation in the form of a face mask, serum or cream comprising the composition of the present invention, and to the use of said formulation to counteract the effects of face aging.

Description

DESCRIPTION

"Anti -wrinkle composi tion"

Background art

As age increases, especially in women, an unwanted volume addition in the chin and mandible areas typically occurs. This, combined with the onset of wrinkles, first concentrated in specific areas of the face and then spread, leads to a general decrease in the beauty of the face, one of the most visible signs of aging. The approaches over time to counteract these phenomena have been multiple, none of these decisive.

The need for a preparation which is capable of synergistically counteracting the undesirable effects of face aging is strongly felt.

Summary of the invention

The authors of the present invention have developed a composition which has surprisingly proved to be able to effectively counteract face aging.

Object of the invention

In a first object, the present invention describes a composition comprising acetyl sh-heptapeptide-1 , acetyl hexapeptide-8 , and extract of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) kernels.

In a second object, there is described a formulation in the form of a face mask, serum or cream, comprising the composition of the invention, and the use of said formulation to achieve one or more of the following cosmetic effects: fleshed skin, hydration, luminosity, regeneration, face oval redesigning, reduction of signs of aging.

Brief description of the drawings

Figures 1 to 3 show the results related to immediate clinical parameters and long-term instrumental parameters .

Detailed description of the invention

In accordance with a first object of the present invention, there is described a composition comprising: acetyl sh-heptapeptide-1 , acetyl hexapeptide-8 , and extract of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) kernels .

In one embodiment, said composition can further comprise one or more of the ingredients selected from: hydrogenated lecithin and/or shea butter.

A further object of the present invention consists of formulations comprising the above composition, wherein said formulations are in the form of face masks, serum, cream.

In a preferred embodiment, each of the above mentioned three components: acetyl sh-heptapeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, and extract of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) kernels, hydrogenated lecithin and shea butter, can be included in a formulation of the invention in a percentage between about 0.05 and 12% weight/volume, and preferably between about 2 and 10% weight/volume .

In a first preferred aspect, said formulation comprises:

In a second preferred aspect, said formulation comprises :

The formulations of the invention further comprise one or more of the excipients selected from: consistency factors, emulsifiers, preservatives, oils and fat phase, perfumes or essences, water.

Preferably, said excipients are included in an amount as follows:

For the purposes of the present invention, the excipients are selected from the group comprising: glycerin, glyceryl polyacrylate, ethyl hexyl glycerin, butylene glycol, propyl heptyl caprylate, propylene glycol, phenoxyethanol , chlorphenesin, methyl parabens, sodium polyacrylate, maltodextrins , sodium diphosphate, sodium phosphate, caprylyl glycol, EDTA, disodium EDTA, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, peg 100 stearate, biosaccharide gum-1 ethylhexyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, xylitol, ceramide 3, ceramide 6 II, ceramide 1, phytosphingosine, cholesterol, sodium lauroyl lactylate, carbomer, xanthan gum, octadecene dioic acid, sodium hyaluronate, phenoxyethanol , phenethyl alcohol, ethylhexylglycerin, allantoin, tocopherol, beta- sitosterol, squalene, glycyrrhetic acid, polysorbate 20, folic acid, sodium phytate.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a formulation in the form of a face mask is described .

Preferably, said "face mask" formulation can comprise further components selected from the group comprising: clay, kaolin, cucumber, birch extract, green tea, witch hazel, burdock, sage and tea tree oil, amylaceous substances, pectins, dog rose extract, antioxidants, hyaluronic acid, collagen, alpha-hydroxy acids such as mandelic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, beta-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid, oil of Argania spinosa kernel, oil of Gossypium herbaceum seeds.

In an alternative embodiment, said formulation is a day or night face cream or is a serum.

Preferably, said "face cream" and/or "serum" formulations comprise further active ingredients selected from the group comprising: glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, kojic acid, salicylic acid, alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), antioxidants such as for example: vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E, alpha-lipoic acid, coenzyme Q10, ferulic acid, phloretin, citric acid, ceramides, silicone derivatives, green tea extract, hydroquinone, beta hydroxy acids (Bhas), peptides, copper peptides, retinoids.

In a further embodiment, the present patent application described the use of the composition and formulations for the treatment of skin aging.

In a preferred embodiment, such a treatment is a cosmetic treatment.

In particular, a composition according to the present invention is for use in a cosmetic method in order to achieve one or more of the following cosmetic effects: fleshed skin, hydration, luminosity, regeneration, face oval redesigning, reduction of signs of aging.

The composition according to the present invention has been shown to have both a short- and a long-term effect in reducing wrinkle visibility.

The following Examples aim at showing the surprising effects achieved by the composition according to the present invention; such Examples are to be considered merely by way of example without limiting the invention, the scope of which is defined by the following claims.

Example 1

Evaluation of the anti-wrinkle effect of a composition according to the present invention. The tested composition comprises acetyl sh-heptapeptide- 1, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and extract of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) kernels.

Experimental procedure: 20 women aged between 55 and 65 years were selected, who were asked to apply the composition to their face for a period of 42 days.

Evaluation parameters:

the micro-wrinkle visibility on forehead and eye contour was clinically evaluated immediately after the first use of the product.

the eye contour wrinkle volume was instrumentally evaluated after 21 and 42 days of use.

at the end of the test, a series of sensorial evaluations expressed by the volunteers themselves were collected, using the VNS scale with values ranging from 0 to 10 (where 0 corresponds to the minimum value and 10 to the maximum value) .

Inclusion criteria:

- good general health/absence of psychological and/or cognitive disorders;

- absence of dermatological and allergologic disorders (of cosmetological type or related to other specific excipients), or other pathologies (such as irritative reactions of unknown origin) ;

- absence of pharmacological treatments in place which may affect the outcome of the test; - not-participation into other clinical trials in the 30 preceding days;

- obtaining of the informed consent.

Treatment method: the composition was applied overnight in a monolayer on the face and eye contour and left on for 20 minutes. A massage was then performed to spread well the residue, without a final rinse. During the day, the volunteers applied a SPF50+ protection.

Clinical parameters: At time [To] (basal value) and immediately after the use of the product [To' ] , the wrinkle visibility of eye contour and the wrinkle visibility of forehead were evaluated.

Instrument parameters: at time [to] (basal value) and after prolonged use of the product: after 21 days [t_2i] , after 42 days [ t₄2 ] , measurements of wrinkle volume were performed. Data are studied with Antera 3D® and processed with Antera 3D® software. Antera 3D® is a camera capturing high-resolution images. The instrument is able to acquire three-dimension images so as to obtain parameters related to expression lines, wrinkles and furrows (skin characteristics which are hollow with respect to the normal skin surface) . Measurements of the volume of a wrinkle are expressed in mm³.

Finally, a series of subjective evaluations was collected after the use of the product, at time [T42] .

The statistical analysis of the clinical results was carried out through the Wilcoxon Test: the established acceptability threshold is 5%. In order to perform the statistical survey and to be able to evaluate skin variations over time, the "wrinkle visibility" parameter was analyzed according to the following criteria:

Very noticeable wrinkles: Very noticeable

Noticeable wrinkles: Noticeable

Mildly noticeable wrinkles: Mild

Slightly noticeable wrinkles: Slight

Not noticeable wrinkles: Absent

The statistical analysis of the instrumental results was carried out through the t-test for paired data: the established acceptability threshold is 1%.

Results are set for in the following Figures and Tables.

Immediate clinical parameters

As shown from data in the following Table in Figure 1, the visibility of forehead wrinkles is statistically significantly reduced in 45% of the volunteers immediately after the use of the product.

The Table in Figure 2 shows data referred to the eye contour wrinkles, the visibility of which is reduced, even if not statistically significantly reduced, in 25% of the volunteers immediately after the use of the product .

Long-term instrumental parameters

Wrinkle volume is reduced by 8% after 21 days of use of the product (not statistically significant) , and statistically significantly by 17% after 42 days of use of the product. Data are shown in the Table in Figure 3. Self-evaluations

Considering a score from 0 to 10, the obtained evaluations are those shown in the following Table:

Example 2

Comparative tests

In order to show the synergic effect achieved by the composition according to the present invention, the following parameters were evaluated in a comparative test, on a homogeneous sample of subjects.

The observed parameters were: fleshed skin, hydration, luminosity, regeneration, face oval redesigning, reduction of signs of aging.

The tested compositions are:

(A) acetyl sh-heptapeptide-1 , acetyl hexapeptide-8 , extract of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) kernels (according to the invention)

(B) acetyl sh-heptapeptide-1

(C) acetyl hexapeptide-8

(D) extract of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) kernels .

The treatment was carried out for 56 days, with applications repeated twice a day. The same team monitored the 4 treatment groups.

The results observed after 56 days of treatment are shown in the following Table (- = no effect; + = noticeable effect; ++ = very noticeable effect) :

[001] The results in the Table clearly show how only the composition of the present invention, composition A, is capable of generating a "fleshed skin" effect, not occurring with any one of the other compositions tested for comparative purposes. Moreover, the composition according to the present invention leads to a marked effect of face oval redesigning and reduction of signs of aging.

Claims

1.A composition comprising acetyl sh-heptapeptide-1 , acetyl hexapeptide-8 , and extract of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) kernels.

2.A composition according to claim 1 further comprising hydrogenated lecithin and/or shea butter.

3.A formulation in the form of a face mask, serum or cream comprising a composition according to claim 1 or 2.

4.A formulation according to claim 3 comprising (% weight/volume ) : acetyl sh-heptapeptide-1 0.05 - 8%, acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.05 - 8%, extract of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) kernels 0.05 - 8%, hydrogenated lecithin 0 - 8%, shea butter 0 - 8%.

5.A formulation according to claim 3 comprising (% weight/volume ) : acetyl sh-heptapeptide-1 0.5 - 7%, acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.5 - 7%, extract of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) kernels 0.5 - 7%, hydrogenated lecithin 0.05 - 8%, shea butter 0.05 - 8%.

6.A formulation according to any one of claims 1 to 5 further comprising one or more from: consistency factors, emulsifiers, preservatives, oils and fat phase, perfumes or essences, water.

7.A formulation according to claim 6, comprising (% weight/volume ) : consistency factors = 2 - 8 %, emulsifiers = 0.5 - 6 %, preservatives = 0.8 - 1.5 %, active ingredients = 2 - 10 %, oils and fat phase = 5 - 25 %, perfumes or essences = 0.2 - 2 %, in addition to further excipients and water q.s.

8. Cosmetic use of a formulation according to any one of claims 3 to 7 in counteracting the effects of face aging .

9 . Cosmetic use of a formulation according to any one of claims 3 to 7 to flesh out the skin.