WO2019121071A1 - Keratin fiber treatment process comprising the application of a washing composition, a care composition and then a beneficial composition - Google Patents

Keratin fiber treatment process comprising the application of a washing composition, a care composition and then a beneficial composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019121071A1
WO2019121071A1 PCT/EP2018/084004 EP2018084004W WO2019121071A1 WO 2019121071 A1 WO2019121071 A1 WO 2019121071A1 EP 2018084004 W EP2018084004 W EP 2018084004W WO 2019121071 A1 WO2019121071 A1 WO 2019121071A1
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group
alkyl
hydrogen atom
chosen
radical
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PCT/EP2018/084004
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French (fr)
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Sophie Bourel
Adrien BENAZZOUZ
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L'oreal
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Keratin fiber treatment process comprising the application of a washing composition, a care composition and then a beneficial composition
  • the present invention relates to a process for cosmetically treating keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers and especially human keratin fibers such as the hair, which consists in sequentially applying a cosmetic washing composition, a cosmetic care composition comprising one or more cationic surfactants and one or more fatty alcohols, and a cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic direct dyes or anionic screening agents.
  • Dyeing of the hair is generally based on chemical reactions and transformations that are liable to damage the hair fiber.
  • Milder solutions known as makeup solutions and based on weak physicochemical interactions, make it possible to deposit dyes at the surface without harming the fiber integrity.
  • dye compositions containing "direct" dyes which are colored or coloring molecules that have affinity for keratin fibers, and among which mention may be made in particular of dyes of nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine and triarylmethane type or natural dyes.
  • Compositions containing one or more direct dyes are applied to the keratin fibers for a time necessary to obtain the desired coloring, and are then rinsed out.
  • the colorings that result therefrom are particularly chromatic colorings which are, however, temporary or semi-permanent since the nature of the interactions that bind the direct dyes to the keratin fiber and their de- sorption from the surface and/or the core of the fiber are responsible for their weak dyeing power and their poor persistence with respect to light, washing or perspira- tion.
  • These compositions are thus generally intended for dyeing fibers for a short period, for example withstanding one or two shampoo washes.
  • the persistence of this type of hair makeup/coloring may be improved by successive- sively applying a fiber cationizing treatment, for example a shampoo containing and depositing cationic polymers, immediately followed by an anionic dye solution.
  • step (b) consisting in applying a composition comprising a cationic surfactant and a fatty alcohol modifies the charges present at the surface of the hair and thus promotes more intense and homogeneous deposition of the anionic direct dyes and/or of the anionic screening agents present in composition C. Better uniformity of the depos- ited color, improved cosmetic benefit and improved persistence and/or protection of the color and/or UV protection are thus obtained.
  • cosmetic benefit especially means the conditioning properties such as the smooth nature (visual and/or feel), the suppleness, the softness and/or the dis- entangling.
  • One subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising:
  • anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from poly- oxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof;
  • a cosmetic composition C comprising one or more anionic dyes and/or anionic screening agents.
  • the cosmetic washing composition A according to the process of the invention comprises (v) one or more cationic polymers and one or more amphoteric polymers.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a process for dyeing and/or antisun-pro- tecting keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising:
  • washing cosmetic compo- sition A comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from poly- oxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof;
  • a cosmetic composition C comprising one or more anionic dyes and/or one or more anionic sunscreens.
  • Implementation of the invention makes it possible especially to obtain the desired properties immediately on application, and in particular suppleness, smoothness, volume and a non-charged, natural feel of the coloring and/or UV protection, while at the same time keeping the hair strands light and individualized; this process most particularly gives the hair improved capacity for disentangling.
  • the dyeing performance qualities are improved relative to the usual results; this may be reflected by a shorter leave-on time and/or a lower concentration of anionic dye in the composition to achieve the desired level of dyeing. It has also been observed that these desired properties, obtained on implementing the invention, are especially persistent with respect to shampoo washing.
  • the process according to the invention can im- prove the persistence of the conditioning (or of the conditioning properties) and/or of the coloring and/or protection afforded; the conditioning properties may especially be persistent on shampoo washing at least three times, in particular on shampoo washing at least four times, and better still shampoo washing at least five times, or even shampoo washing at least six times.
  • the particularly persistent conditioning properties are especially the suppleness of the hair, and/or its smooth feel (smoothing) and/or its ease of disentangling.
  • washing composition A according to the invention has a sparingly aggressive nature, since the application of the corn- position to the hair fiber in the long run causes little damage associated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins contained in or at the surface of said fiber.
  • the washing composition A according to the invention allows good deposition, or even good penetration, of the anionic beneficial agents on/in the keratin fibers and thus makes it possible to obtain improved conditioning action.
  • the time which separates the application of the washing composition A from the application of composition C according to the invention depends on the consumers’ need to wash their hair and/or the frequency at which they perform their shampoo washes.
  • this time may range from a few minutes (the application of the washing composition A is immediately followed by the application of composition B and then of composition C) to a few days; this time may especially range from 30 seconds to 7 days, for example from 1 minute to 4 days, better still from 2 minutes to 3 days, or even from 5 minutes to 48 hours, and better still from 10 minutes to 24 hours.
  • composition B is applied to wet hair, after rinsing out composition A, preferably immediately after rinsing out composition A.
  • composition B is left to stand on the hair for a time ranging especially from 1 to 15 minutes, better still from 2 to 10 minutes and ideally 4-6 minutes.
  • composition C is advantageously applied to wet hair, after rinsing out composition B, preferably immediately after rinsing out composition B.
  • composition C is left to stand on the hair for a time ranging especially from 1 to 15 minutes, better still from 2 to 10 minutes, ideally 4-6 minutes; before rinsing out composition C (rins- ing of the hair).
  • composition C is applied immediately after composition B, which is itself applied immediately after the washing composition A; the term "immediately” means a time of the order of 1 to 15 minutes, especially of the order of 2 to 10 minutes.
  • the term“care composition” denotes a composition which can afford haircare, especially conditioning; it is a cosmetic composition, especially a hair composition, and not at all a pharmaceutical or therapeutic composition.
  • the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expres- sion “one or more” and can be replaced therewith.
  • the expression “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from... to” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included. Washing composition A
  • the cosmetic washing composition A used in the context of the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof (i) and one or more additional anionic surfactants (ii), other than the anionic surfactants (i).
  • the washing composition A comprises at least two different anionic surfactants.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
  • a species is termed “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged spe- cies, under the conditions of use of the washing composition A and/or B of the in- vention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
  • the washing composition A of the invention contains at least one anionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups.
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1 ):
  • - Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (Cs-Cgjal- kylphenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical;
  • R1 is a Cs to C20 and preferably Cs to C18 alkyl radical
  • - n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and pref- erably from 2 to 10,
  • - A denotes a hydrogen atom, an ammonium group, a sodium atom, a potassium atom, a lithium atom, a magnesium atom, a calcium atom or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
  • Use may also be made of mixtures of compounds of formula (1 ), in particular mix- tures of compounds bearing different groups R1.
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that are particularly pre- ferred are those of formula (1 ) in which:
  • R1 denotes a Ci2-Ci 4 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
  • - A denotes a hydrogen atom or a sodium atom
  • - n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.
  • R1 de- notes a C12 alkyl radical
  • A denotes a hydrogen atom or a sodium atom
  • n ranges from 2 to 10.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof; polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups, and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
  • said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magne- sium salt.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts
  • alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magne- sium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoeth- anolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino- methane salts.
  • the washing composition A preferably comprises said polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid(s) and/or salts thereof in a to- tal amount ranging from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, better still from 1 % to 20% by weight and preferentially from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
  • washing composition A according to the invention com- prises at least one additional anionic surfactant other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof (i) described above.
  • the additional anionic surfactants (ii) used in the washing composition A according to the invention are chosen from among anionic surfactants including in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate and/or car- boxylate groups, and/or mixtures thereof, preferably from among anionic surfactants comprising at least one sulfate group.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) may be oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated.
  • the total average number of ethylene oxide (EO) and/or propylene oxide (PO) groups may then range from 1 to 50 and especially from 1 to 10.
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function.
  • acylglycinates may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds includ ing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; these compounds possibly being polyoxy- alkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tar- trates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
  • carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • acylglutamates in particular of C6-C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 , such as stearoylgluta- mates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
  • acylsarcosinates in particular of C6-C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 , such as palmitoylsar- cosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinates;
  • acyllactylates in particular of C 12 -C 28 or even C 14 -C 24 , such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function.
  • alkylsulfonates alkylamidesul- fonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl- sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl- sulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethyle- nated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate func- tion.
  • alkyl sulfates alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sul- fates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24, even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated and then preferably include from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • alkyl sulfates especially C6-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl sulfates
  • alkyl ether sulfates especially C6-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, prefera- bly comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magne- sium or calcium salt.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts
  • alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magne- sium or calcium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned in- clude monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopro- panolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 - propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)ami- nomethane salts.
  • anionic surfactants (ii) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • C 12 -C 20 alkyl ether sulfates preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; more preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from CS-CM and more particularly C 12 -C 14 alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates, and most particularly lauryl (ether) sulfates.
  • anionic surfactants (ii) use is preferably made of one or more sulfate- based anionic surfactants.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) are in the form of salts, and in particular alkaline salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, including amino alcohol salts, and/or magnesium salts.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) may be present in the washing composition A according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 3.5% to 18% by weight and better still from 4% to 15% by weight, even better still from 4.5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
  • the total content of anionic surfactants in the washing composition A according to the invention i.e. the total content of surfac- tants (i) and (ii)
  • the washing composition A comprises one or more nonionic surfactants.
  • the nonionic surfactants may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5 and in particu- lar from 1 .5 to 4 glycerol groups;
  • polyoxyalkylenated preferably polyoxyethylenated, fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils;
  • amine oxides such as (C 10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C IO-M acyl)aminopropylmor- pholine oxides;
  • Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
  • R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4;
  • alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of formula (2) de- scribed above in which:
  • - Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
  • R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0;
  • - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose
  • the degree of polymerization i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
  • the glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1 -6 or 1 -4 type and preferably of 1 -4 type.
  • the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an al- kyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.
  • C8/C16 alkyl(poly)glucosides 1 ,4, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.
  • the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated fatty alcohols includ ing at least one Cs to C 4 o, especially C8-C20 and better still C10-C18 alkyl chain, and comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more par- ticularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide; especially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4) and lauryl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-12); and
  • nonionic surfactant(s) are preferentially chosen from the al- kyl(poly)glycosides of formula (2) above, and most particularly from (C6-C24 al- kyl)(poly)glycosides, and even more particularly (Cs-Cis alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
  • the washing composition A comprises at least two nonionic surfactants preferably chosen from oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one C8-C20 and better still C10-C18 alkyl chain, compris- ing from 2 to 50 and in particular from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (Cs-Cis alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
  • nonionic surfactants preferably chosen from oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one C8-C20 and better still C10-C18 alkyl chain, compris- ing from 2 to 50 and in particular from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (Cs-Cis alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
  • the nonionic surfactant(s) are present in the washing composition A ac- cording to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, pref- erentially ranging from 1 % to 15% by weight, in particular ranging from 1 .5% to 10% and better still from 1 .75% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
  • the washing composition A comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are non-silicone surfac- tants. They may especially be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain contain- ing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • R a represents a C 10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
  • R b represents a b-hydroxyethyl group
  • R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • - M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • - X represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (C 1 - C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M + and X are absent;
  • - B represents the group -CH 2 CH 2 OX’
  • - X' represents the group -CH 2 COOH, -CH 2 -COOZ’, -CH 2 CH 2 COOH or CH 2 CH 2 - COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;
  • - U' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH 2 CH(0H)S0 3 H or the group CH 2 CH(0H)S0 3 -Z';
  • - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • R a' represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C17 group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
  • - Y represents the group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH 2 -CH(0H)S0 3 H or the group CH 2 CH(0H)S0 3 -Z";
  • R d and R e represent, independently of each other, a C1 to C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical
  • - Z represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • Ra- represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a -COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;
  • n denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
  • amphoteric surfactant(s) (iv) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C 2 o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C 2 o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C 2 o)alkylamido(C 3 -C8)al- kylbetaines and (C8-C 2 o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines, and also the corn- pounds of formulae (3), (4) and (5) as defined previously.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C 2 o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C 2 o)alkylamido(C 3 - C8)a I kyl betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and the compounds of formula (5) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).
  • (C8-C 2 o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine
  • C8-C 2 o)alkylamido(C 3 - C8)a I kyl betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine
  • the compounds of formula (5) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropy
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (Cs- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine.
  • the amphoteric surfactant(s) are present in the washing composition A according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferentially in a content ranging from 3.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
  • the washing composition A may comprise one or more cationic polymers preferably having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 3 milliequivalents/gram (meq/g), better still greater than or equal to 4 meq/g, or even greater than or equal to 5 meq/g, in particular ranging from 3 to 20 meq/g, especially from 4 to 20 meq/g, or better still from 5 to 20 meq/g.
  • the cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ion- ized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar propor- tion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.
  • cationic polymer denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any ani- onic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
  • the cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5x10 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3x10 6 approximately.
  • - R3 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical
  • - A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R 4 , R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group con- taining from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • R1 and R2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of family (1 ) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitro gen with lower (Ci-C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • - polymers preferably crosslinked polymers, of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyl tri(Ci- C 4 )alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymer- ization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an ole- finically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
  • methacryloyloxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyl tri(Ci- C 4 )alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymer- ization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl
  • Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrime- thylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion corn- prising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • Use may also be made of a cross- linked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • Cationic polysaccharides in particular cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.
  • cationic polysaccharides mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cel- lulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • the cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are in par- ticular described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have re- acted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
  • Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacry- loylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dime- thyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • guar gums comprising cationic trial kylammonium groups.
  • Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride).
  • a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt for example, a chloride.
  • prod- ucts are in particular sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Rhodia.
  • Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldia- mine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-un- saturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyamino
  • Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene pol- yamines with polycarboxyl ic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldial- kylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 the company Sandoz.
  • Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Flercosett 57 by the company Flercules Inc. or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Flercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
  • cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium such as homo- polymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corre- sponding to formula (XXXI) or (XXXII):
  • R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R 10 and Rn independently of one another, denote a C 1 -C6 alkyl group, a C 1 -C 5 hydroxyalkyl group, a Ci-C 4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R 10 and Rn may de- note, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R 10 and Rn , independently of one another, preferably denote a CnC 4 alkyl group;
  • - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • dimethyldial- lylammonium salts for example chloride
  • Mer- quat 100 by the company Nalco
  • the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts for example chloride
  • acrylamide sold in particular under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.
  • R 13 , RM, R 15 and R 16 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, ali- cyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C 1 -C 12 hy- droxyalkyl aliphatic radicals,
  • R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitro- gen heteroatom;
  • R 13 , RM, R 15 and R 16 represent a linear or branched C 1 -C6 alkyl radical sub- stituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R 17 -D or -CO-NH-R 17 -D group, where R 17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
  • Ai and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkyla- mino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and
  • - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
  • Ai , R 13 and R 15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
  • Bi may also denote a group (CH2) n -CO-D-OC-(CH2) P - with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:
  • a glycol residue of formula -0-Z-0- in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the follow- ing formulae: -(ChhChhOJx-Ch Chh- and -[CH 2 CH(CH3)0]y-CH 2 CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
  • a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
  • X is an anion, such as chloride or bromide.
  • Mn number-average molar mass
  • R 1 , R 2 , R3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers rang- ing from 2 to 20, and X is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
  • R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, b-hydroxyethyl, b-hydroxypropyl or - ChhChhiOCh ChhJ p OH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R 19 , R 20 and R 21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
  • - r and s which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
  • - X denotes an anion, such as a halide
  • - A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2- CH2-.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1 , Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
  • these polymers may be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
  • these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (B), preferably from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (B).
  • These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylfor- mamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
  • the weight-average molecular weight of said polymer measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
  • the polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold in particular under the Lupamin name by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting way, the products provided under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolyzates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyeth- yleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, conden- sates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin de- rivatives.
  • the cationic polymers are chosen from those of families (1 ), (2), (7), (8) and (10) mentioned above.
  • cationic polysaccharides in particular cationic celluloses and cationic gal- actomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by the company Amerchol, cationic cyclo- polymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homo- polymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Mer- quat S by the company Nalco, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vi- nylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylo- yloxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyltri(Ci-C 4 )alkylammonium salts; polymers constituted of repeating units corresponding to formula (XXXIV) above, in particular the compound Hexadi- meth
  • the total content of cationic polymer(s) in the washing composition A according to the invention may range from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A, preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
  • the washing composition A may comprise one or more amphoteric polymers.
  • amphoteric polymer denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and also anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
  • the amphoteric polymers may preferably be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of:
  • the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer are units of structure (la) below:
  • Ri denotes H or CH3 and R 2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert- butylamino, dodecylamino and -NH-CH 2 OH radical.
  • said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of for- mula (la).
  • the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (la) in which R 1 denotes H and R 2 is an amino radical (NH 2 ) is particularly preferred. It corre- sponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.
  • the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammo- nium type are units of structure (lla) below:
  • R 4 denotes a group (CH 2 ) k , with k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and prefer- ably from 2 to 4;
  • R 5 - R 5, R6 and R 7 which may be identical or different, denote a Ci-C 4 alkyl
  • - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of for- mula (lla).
  • the ones that are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R 3 denotes a methyl radical, k is equal to 3, R 5 , R6 and R 7 denote a methyl radical, and Y denotes a chloride anion.
  • the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type are units of formula (Ilia):
  • the preferred units of formula (Ilia) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.
  • the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (Ilia) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which Rs denotes a hydrogen atom and Rg denotes a hydroxyl radical.
  • the acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non-neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
  • said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of for- mula (Ilia).
  • the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a (meth)acrylamide- type monomer.
  • the content of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammo- nium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.
  • the content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.
  • amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:
  • Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer, a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrial- kylammonium-type monomer and a (meth)acrylic acid-type monomer such as de- scribed above.
  • said amphoteric polymers are constituted solely of units derived from monomers of (meth)acrylamide type (i), of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) and of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
  • examples of particularly preferred amphoteric polymers that may be mentioned in- clude acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers.
  • Such polymers are listed in the CTFA (INCI) dictionary under the name "Polyquaternium 53".
  • Corresponding products are in particular sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by Nalco.
  • amphoteric polymer As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chlo- ride.
  • copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chlo- ride.
  • An example that may be mentioned is Merquat 280 sold by Nalco.
  • the cosmetic washing composition A comprises one or more amphoteric polymers chosen, alone or as a mixture, from acrylamide/methacrylami- dopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers, and copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the amphoteric polymer(s) may be present in the washing composition A according to the invention in a total amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 3% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
  • the washing composition A comprises one or more cationic poly- mers and one or more amphoteric polymers.
  • the washing composition A according to the invention comprises:
  • anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(am- ido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, preferably of formula (1 ) as defined above;
  • anionic surfactants chosen from sodium, triethanolamine, magne- sium or ammonium (Ci2-Ci 4 )alkyl sulfates and/or sodium, ammonium or magnesium (Ci2-Ci 4 )alkyl ether sulfates, which are oxyethylenated, for example with 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide; (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates; al- pha-olefin sulfonates;
  • nonionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • - oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising at least one Cs to C 4 o, especially Ce to C 20 and better still C 10 to C 18 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, alkyl chain, and comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide; es- pecially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide and lauryl alcohol contain- ing 12 mol of ethylene oxide; and
  • amphoteric surfactants chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)al- kylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkyl- amido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines; and
  • - cationic polymers preferably with a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 3 meq/g, preferentially chosen from dialkyldiallylammonium halide ho- mopolymers or copolymers; and
  • - amphoteric polymers preferably constituted solely of units derived from monomers (i) of acrylamide type, (ii) of acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of (meth)acrylic acid type.
  • the washing compositions A in accordance with the invention may advantageously be used as shampoos for washing and/or conditioning the hair; they are preferably applied in this case to wet hair in amounts that are effective for washing it; the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands may then be removed, after an optional leave-on time, by rinsing with water, the operation possibly being repeated one or more times.
  • the cosmetic care composition B used in the context of the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants and one or more fatty alcohols.
  • the cosmetic care composition B used according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants.
  • They are advantageously chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, sec- ondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • the groups Rs to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn containing from 8 to 30 and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; and
  • - X is an anion chosen especially from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates;
  • the aliphatic groups Rs to Rn may be chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C2- Ce) polyoxyalkylene, C 1 -C30 alkylamide, (Ci 2 -C 22 )alkylamido(C 2 -C6)alkyl, (C 12 - C 22 )alkyl acetate, and C 1 -C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • tetraalkylammonium halides especially chlo- rides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyl- trimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrime- thylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride.
  • R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
  • R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C 4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • R M represents a Ci-C 4 alkyl group
  • R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C 4 alkyl group
  • X is an anion chosen especially from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates;
  • R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, RM denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat ® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik.
  • - Ri6 denotes an alkyl group comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is op- tionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms
  • - R17 denotes hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N + (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), Riea, Ri7a and Risa, which may be identical or different, denoting hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
  • R19, R20 and R21 which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
  • - X is an anion, chosen especially from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C 4 )alkylsulfonates and (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75), sold by the company Finetex.
  • R 22 is chosen from C 1 -C6 alkyl groups and C 1 -C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups,
  • - r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
  • - r1 and t1 which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 ,
  • - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
  • - x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,
  • the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear.
  • R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particu- larly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R 23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 27 , it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or else may comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 29 , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 1-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched C1 1-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1- C 4 )alkyl sulfate, a (Ci-C 4 )alkylsulfonate or a (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonate, a me- thanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function.
  • the anion X- is more particularly a chloride, a methyl sulfate or an ethyl sulfate.
  • R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and prefer- ably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.
  • the salts espe- cially the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxy- ethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammo- nium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldime- thylammonium, and mixtures thereof.
  • the acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
  • This esterifi cation may be followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dime- thyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, gly- col chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dime- thyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, gly- col chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide,
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
  • Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131 .
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • the cationic surfactants are chosen from those of formula (la) or (IVa), and better still from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipal- mitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof; and more par- ticularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrime- thylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammo- nium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic care composition B according to the invention preferably comprises the cationic surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, prefer- ably from 0.5% to 8% by weight and preferentially from 1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the care composition B according to the invention also comprises one or more fatty alcohols comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 28 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, or even from 14 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols according to the invention can be liquid or solid at ambient tem- perature and at atmospheric pressure (25°C, 1 atm).
  • the fatty alcohols used are solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25°C, 1 atm).
  • the fatty alcohols according to the invention have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 28 carbon atoms, or better still 12 to 24 carbon atoms, or even from 14 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R denoting a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 28 carbon atoms, or better still 12 to 24 carbon atoms, or even from 14 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R denoting a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 28 carbon atoms, or better still 12 to 24 carbon atoms, or even from 14 to 20 carbon
  • R is a linear or branched (saturated) alkyl group, preferably linear, corn- prising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols that can be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol (1 -hexadecanol), stearyl alcohol (1 -oc- tadecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1 -eicosanol), behenyl alcohol (1 -docosanol), lig- noceryl alcohol (1 -tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (1 -hexacosanol), montanyl alcohol (1 - octacosanol) and myricyl alcohol (1 -triacontanol).
  • the composition comprises at least one fatty alcohol chosen from ce tyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
  • Composition B according to the invention may comprise said fatty alcohol(s) in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, especially from 1 % to 10% by weight and preferentially from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the corn- position.
  • composition B according to the invention may comprise one or more silicones, preferably one or more amino silicones.
  • silicones that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydiarylsilox- anes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also organopolysilox- anes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amino groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene or polyoxypro- pylene groups.
  • the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphen- ylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
  • organopolysiloxanes comprising:
  • polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C6-C24 al- kyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols and especially those sold by the com- pany Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet ® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 71 1 from the company Union Carbide; or (Ci2)alkylmethicone copolyols and especially those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;
  • C6-C24 al- kyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols and especially those sold by the com- pany Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet ® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 71 1 from the company Union Carbide; or (Ci2)alkylmethicone copolyols and especially those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;
  • Ci-C 4 aminoalkyl groups in particular Ci-C 4 aminoalkyl groups
  • hydroxylated groups for instance polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function
  • the polydialkylsiloxanes may be chosen mainly from polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s;
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • CTFA cyclic polydimethylsiloxane
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly from linear and/or branched pol- ydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes preferably with a viscosity ranging from 1 c 10 5 to 5x1 O 2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • oils of the SF series from General Electric such as SF 1023, SF 1 154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones.
  • amino silicone means any sili cone comprising one or more primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions or one or more quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amino silicones that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are advantageously chosen, alone or as a mixture, from amino silicones bearing one or more amine functions, especially primary amines, and amino silicones bearing one or more non-amidated quaternized amine functions.
  • non-amidated silicone means a sili- cone that does not comprise any amide functions (-NFIC(O)-).
  • composition according to the invention may thus comprise in particular one or more amino silicones chosen from:
  • - T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl or Ci-Cs alkyl group, preferably methyl, or a Ci-Cs alkoxy, group preferably methoxy,
  • - a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 0,
  • - b denotes 0 or 1 , in particular 1 ,
  • n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and in par- ticular from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and espe- dally from 1 to 10;
  • R 1 is a monovalent group of formula -CqH 2q L in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amine group chosen from the following groups: -N(R 2 )-CH 2 -CH 2 -N(R 2 ) 2 ,
  • R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, a benzyl group or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a Ci-C 2 o alkyl group
  • Q represents a halide ion, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
  • R, R' and R which may be identical or different, denote a Ci-C 4 alkyl group, pref- erably CH 3 , a Ci-C 4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy, or OH,
  • a and B represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched C 2 -Cs, pref- erably C 3 -C6 alkylene radical; A preferably representing a C 3 -C6 alkylene and B pref- erably representing a C 2 -C 4 alkylene;
  • R, R' and R which may be identical or different, each represent a Ci-C 4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl radical
  • A represents a C3 alkylene group
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is approximately between 5000 and 500 000.
  • the compounds of this type are named“amodimethicone” in the CTFA dictionary.
  • R, R' and R" which may be identical or different, each represent a Ci-C 4 alkoxy group or a hydroxyl radical, at least one of the groups R or R" is a Ci-C 4 alkoxy group;
  • A represents a C3 alkylene group and B represents a C 2 -C 4 and especially C 2 alkylene radical;
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 10 6 ; more particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum (m + n) being between 1 and 1000.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advanta- geously is equal to 0.3/1 .
  • R and R" which are different, each represent a Ci-C 4 alkoxy group or a hydroxyl radical, at least one of the groups R and R" being a C 1 - C 4 alkoxy group, R' representing a methyl group, A representing a C3 alkylene group and B representing a C 2 -C 4 alkylene radical; m and n are such that the weight-av- erage molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 200 000; more partic- ularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum (m + n) being between 1 and 1000.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 1 /0.8 and 1/1 .1 and advanta- geously is equal to 1/0.95.
  • R, R" and R' represent a methyl radical
  • A represents a C4 alkylene radical
  • B represents a C2-C 4 alkylene radical
  • m and n are inte gers that are dependent on the molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone, and the sum of which ranges from 1 to 2000.
  • a silicone that is particularly preferred according to this variant is the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone", corresponding to formula (A’) below:
  • m and n are integers that are dependent on the molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone, and whose sum ranges from 1 to 2000.
  • R1 , R 2J R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote a Ci-C 4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
  • R5 denotes a Ci-C 4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group
  • - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.
  • - R5 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C2-C18 alkenyl radical; preferably a methyl radical;
  • - R6 represents a linear or branched C1-C18 divalent alkylene radical or a linear or branched C1-C18, for example Ci-Cs, divalent alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
  • - Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, such as acetate;
  • - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;
  • - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
  • R7 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a hydrocarbon-based ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms; preferably a methyl radical;
  • R6 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1-C18 di- valent alkylene radical or a linear or branched C1-C18, for example Ci-Cs, divalent alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
  • R8 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C2-C18 alkenyl radical; or a group -R6-NHCOR7, R6 and R7 being as defined above;
  • X- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, for example acetate;
  • a silicone of formula (IV) that is particularly preferred is the one in which all the R7s are methyl radicals and all the R6s are Ci-Cs and especially C2-C 4 alkyleneoxys.
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones may advantageously be determined by gel permeation chromatography (room temperature 25°C, poly- styrene standard, m styragem columns, THF eluent, flow rate of 1 mm/minute, 200 mI of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry).
  • silicones may also be used in the form of emul- sions or microemulsions, which may comprise cationic and/or nonionic surfactants. Mention may thus also be made, as commercial product that may be used according to the invention, of the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 -7224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising a mixture of trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (IV) defined above, a nonionic surfactant of formula: CsHi7-C6H 4 - (OCH 2 CH 2 ) 4 O-OH, known under the CTFA name Octoxynol-40, a second nonionic surfactant of formula: CI 2 H 2 5-(OCH 2 -CH 2 )6-OH, known under the CTFA name Iso- laureth-6, and propylene glycol.
  • Dow Corning Q2 -7224 by the company Dow Corning
  • Cationic Emulsion DC939 by Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, a cationic sur- factant, namely trimethylcetylammonium chloride, and a nonionic surfactant of for- mula CI 3 H 27 -(OC 2 H 4 )I 2 -OH, known under the CTFA name Trideceth-12.
  • Wacker-Belsil ADM LOG1 by the company Wacker, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, Tride- ceth-5 and Trideceth-10.
  • the silicone(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular from polydime- thylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups, amino silicones, in particular of for- mula (I), and more particularly from the amino silicones of formula (A) or (A').
  • the composition comprises the silicone(s) in an amount preferably ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, or even from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises the amino silicone(s) in an amount preferably ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight or even from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition C used in the context of the invention comprises one or more anionic beneficial agents chosen from anionic sunscreens, anionic direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • anionic means that the corn- pound comprises one or more anionic groups, i.e. one or more groups bearing an acid function, in neutralized or non-neutralized form.
  • anionic groups are pref- erably chosen from the following groups: -CO 2 H, -CO 2 , -SO3H, -SO3 , -OSO3H, - OSO3-, -H2PO3, -HPO3-, -PO3 2 -, -H2PO2, -HPO2-, -PO2 2 -, -POH and -PO .
  • the composition comprises one or more anionic direct dyes.
  • anionic sunscreens that may be used, mention may be made of the UVA and/or UVB organic screening agents described below.
  • a first example is benzene-1 ,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and the various salts thereof, described in particular in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347.
  • These screening agents correspond to general formula (XV) below:
  • F denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or a radical NFI(R I )3 + in which the radicals R1, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a C1- C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical or a group Mn7n, Mn + denoting a polyvalent metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn + preferably denoting a metal cation chosen from Ca 2+ , Zn 2+ , Mg 2+ , Ba 2+ , Al 3+ and Zr 4 *.
  • the compounds comprising at least two benzazolyl groups correspond to the gen- eral formula (XVI) below:
  • - Z represents an organic residue of valency (I + n) comprising one or more double bonds placed such that it completes the system of double bonds of at least two benzazolyl groups as defined inside the square brackets so as to form a totally con- jugated assembly;
  • - X' denotes S, O or NR 6 ;
  • R 1 denotes hydrogen, C1-C18 alkyl, Ci-C 4 alkoxy, a C 5 -C1 5 aryl, a C2-C18 acyloxy, SO3Y or COOY;
  • radicals R 2 , R 3 , R 4 and R 5 which may be identical or different, denote a nitro group or a radical R 1 ;
  • R 6 denotes hydrogen, a Ci-C 4 alkyl or a Ci-C 4 hydroxyalkyl
  • - Y denotes hydrogen, Li, Na, K, NH 4 , 1/2Ca, 1/2Mg, 1/3AI or a cation resulting from the neutralization of a free acid group with an organic nitrogenous base;
  • - m is 0 or 1 ;
  • - n is a number from 2 to 6;
  • - 1 is a number from 1 to 4;
  • R 6 has the same meaning as that indicated above; said radicals Z as de- fined in paragraphs (a1 ), (b1 ) and (d ) possibly being substituted with C1-C6 alkyl, Ci-C 6 alkoxy, phenoxy, hydroxyl, methylenedioxy or amino radicals optionally sub- stituted with one or two C1-C5 alkyl radicals.
  • the compounds of formula (XVI) comprise, per molecule, 1 , 3 or 4 groups SOsY.
  • organic UVA-screening agents that may be used according to the pre- sent invention, mention may also be made of benzophenone compounds compris- ing at least one sulfonic acid function, for instance the following compounds:
  • organic UVA-screening agents use will more particularly be made of benzene-1 ,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) and the various salts thereof (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) produced by Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl SX®.
  • organic UVB-screening agents are especially chosen from:
  • hydrophilic cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hy- droxycinnamic acid
  • hydrophilic organic UVB-screening agents examples include those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name:
  • TEA salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS® by Symrise
  • benzylidenecamphor compounds
  • Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232® by Merck.
  • the anionic sunscreens that may be used in composition B according to the present invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from sulfonic screening agents, preferably from benzene-1 , 4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) and the various salts thereof; sulfonic benzophenone derivatives such as benzo- phenone-4; sulfonic benzylidenecamphor derivatives, such as benzylidenecam- phorsulfonic acid; phenyl benzimidazole derivatives such as phenylbenzimidaz- olesulfonic acid and salts thereof, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate.
  • sulfonic screening agents preferably from benzene-1 , 4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) and the various salts thereof
  • sulfonic benzophenone derivatives such as benzo- phenone-4
  • the anionic sunscreen(s) may generally be present in the composition C according to the invention in a total amount of between 0.05% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 10% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
  • Composition C according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic direct dyes.
  • anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as "acid" direct dyes owing to their affinity for alkaline substances.
  • the term "anionic direct dye” means any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion.
  • the anionic dyes may be chosen from direct nitro acid dyes, azo acid dyes, azine acid dyes, triarylmethane acid dyes, indoamine acid dyes, anthraquinone acid dyes, indigoid dyes and natural acid dyes.
  • the anionic direct dye(s) may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the anionic direct dyes of formulae (II), (IG), (III), (III'), (IV), (IV), (V), (V), (VI), (VII), (VIII) and (IX) below: a) the diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (II) or (IG):
  • R7, Re, R9, R10, RV, R'e, R'9 and R'10 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • X, X’ and X which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
  • R”-S(0) 2 - with R” representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, aryl, (di)(al- kyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferentially a phenylamino or phenyl group;
  • aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + and iv) alkoxy with M + as defined previ- ously;
  • heteroaryl optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferentially a benzothiazolyl group; cycloalkyl; especially cyclohexyl;
  • Ar-N N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; prefer- entially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl, (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + or phe- nylamino groups;
  • R 7 with Rs or Rs with Rg or Rg with R 10 together form a fused benzo group A’; and RV with R's or R's with R'g or R'g with R' 10 together form a fused benzo group B’; with A’ and B’ optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + ; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X’-; viii) R°-X’-C(X)-; ix) R°-X’-C(X)-X"- ; x) Ar-N N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino; with M + , R°, X, X’, X” and Ar as defined previously;
  • ⁇ W represents a sigma bond s, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i) -NR- with R as defined previously, or ii) methylene -C(R a )(R b )- with R a and R b , which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or alternatively R a and R b form, with the carbon atom that bears them, a spiro cyclo- alkyl; preferentially, W represents a sulfur atom or R a and R b together form a cyclo- hexyl;
  • formulae (II) and (I ) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + or one carboxylate radical (O)CO -, M + on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C; preferentially sodium sulfonate;
  • dyes of formula (II) mention may be made of: Acid Red 1 , Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41 , Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1 , Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3, Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 1 13, Acid Blue 1 17, Acid Black 1 , Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1 , Food Black 2, Food yellow 3 or Sunset Yel- low; and, as examples of dyes of formula (IG), mention may be made of: Acid Red 111 , Acid Red 134, Acid Yellow 38; b) the pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (III) and (IN')
  • R1 1, R12 and R13 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl group or -(0) 2 S(0 ), M + with M + as defined previously;
  • R M represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a group -C(0)0 , M + with M + as defined previously;
  • R 15 represents a hydrogen atom
  • R16 represents an oxo group, in which case R’i6 is absent, or alternatively R15 with R16 together form a double bond;
  • ⁇ R17 and Ris which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from:
  • Ar-0-S(0) 2 - with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group, prefer- entially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl groups;
  • R’i6, R' 19 and R’20 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxyl group
  • ⁇ R21 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group
  • R a and R b which may be identical or different, are as defined previously, preferentially R a represents a hydrogen atom and R b represents an aryl group;
  • ⁇ Y represents either a hydroxyl group or an oxo group
  • ⁇ - represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxyl group;
  • formulae (III) and (III ⁇ ) comprise at least one sulfonate rad- ical (0) 2 S(0-)-, M + or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 , M + on one of the rings D or E; preferentially sodium sulfonate;
  • dyes of formula (III) mention may be made of: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and as examples of dyes of formula (IN'), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 17; c) the anthraquinone dyes of formulae (IV) and (IV):
  • R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
  • aryloxy or arylthio optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + with M + as defined previ- ously;
  • aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + with M + as defined previously;
  • ⁇ Z’ represents a hydrogen atom or a group N R28R29 with R28 and R29, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl
  • aryl optionally substituted with one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + with M + as defined previously; iii) R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X"- with R°, X, X’ and X” as defined previ- ously, preferentially R° represents an alkyl group;
  • cycloalkyl especially cyclohexyl
  • ⁇ Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and N R’28R’29 with R’28 and R’29, which may be identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously;
  • formulae (IV) and (IV) comprise at least one sulfonate rad- ical (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + or one carboxylate radical C(0)0 -, M + ; preferentially sodium sul- fonate;
  • dyes of formula (IV) mention may be made of: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251 , Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41 , Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mor- dant Red 3; EXT violet No. 2;
  • R30, R3 1 and R3 2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
  • alkoxy optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, alkylthio optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;
  • heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino
  • R30, R3 1 and R3 2 represent a hydrogen atom
  • R c and R d which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • ⁇ W is as defined previously; W particularly represents a group -NH-;
  • ALK represents a linear or branched divalent C1-C6 alkylene group; in partic- ular, ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group;
  • ⁇ n 1 or 2;
  • ⁇ p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive
  • ⁇ q represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive
  • ⁇ u is 0 or 1 ;
  • J represents a nitro or nitroso group; particularly nitro
  • J represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical -
  • which may be present or absent, represents a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups R30 as defined previously; it being understood that formulae (V) and (V) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 , M + ; preferentially sodium sul- fonate;
  • dyes of formula (V) mention may be made of: Acid Brown 13 and Acid Orange 3; as examples of dyes of formula (V), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 1 , the sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1 -naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5- nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2-(4'-N,N-(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)ani- lineethanesulfonic acid, 4-p-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C Yellow 7; e) the triarylmethane dyes of formula (VI):
  • R33, R34, R35 and R36 which may be identical or different, represent a hydro- gen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted with a group (0) m S(0 )-, M + with M + and m as defined previously;
  • R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R44 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • X, X’ and X which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
  • R41 with R42 or R42 with R43 or R43 with R44 together form a fused benzo group: G; with G optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + ; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X’-; viii) R°-X’-C(X)- and ix) R°-X’-C(X)- X”-; with M + , R°, X, X’ and X” as defined previously;
  • R37 to R 4 o represent a hydrogen atom
  • R 4 I to R 44 which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl group or (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + ; and when R 43 with R 44 together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted with a group (0) 2 S(0-)-;
  • At least one of the rings G, H, I or G comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )- or a carboxylate radical -C(0)0 ; preferentially sul- fonate;
  • dyes of formula (VI) mention may be made of: Acid Blue 1 ; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5 and Acid Green 50; f) the xanthene-based dyes of formula (VII):
  • R 45 , R 46 , R 4 7 and R 4 s which may be identical or different, represent a hydro- gen or halogen atom;
  • R 4 9, R50, R51 and R52 which may be identical or different, represent a hydro- gen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
  • R 4g , R50, R51 and R52 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom
  • ⁇ G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NR e with R e as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
  • ⁇ L represents an alkoxide O , M + ; a thioalkoxide S , M + or a group NR f , with R f representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group and M + as defined previously; M + is particularly sodium or potassium;
  • ⁇ L' represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or an ammonium group: N + R f R g , with R f and R g , which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or optionally substituted aryl group; L’ represents particularly an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or (0) m S(0 )-, M + groups with m and M + as defined previously;
  • ⁇ Q and Q’ which may be identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q’ represent an oxygen atom;
  • ⁇ M + is as defined previously;
  • dyes of formula (VII) mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51 ; Acid Red 52; Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9; g) the indole-based dyes of formula (VIII):
  • R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and R60 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • X, X’ and X which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
  • ⁇ G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NR e with R e as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
  • R, and R h which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • formula (VIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 , M + ; preferentially sodium sul- fonate.
  • dyes of formula (VIII) mention may be made of: Acid Blue 74. h) the quinoline-based dyes of formula (IX):
  • R62, R63, and R64 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + with M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
  • R6i with R62, or R6i with R64 together form a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + with M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
  • formula (IX) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + preferentially sodium sulfonate.
  • dyes of formula (IX) mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
  • the cosmetic composition C comprises one or more anionic direct dyes chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the following anionic direct dyes:
  • the anionic dyes that are most particularly preferred are the dyes designated in the Colour Index under the code C.l. 58005 (monosodium salt of 1 ,2-dihydroxy-9,10- anthraquinone-3-sulfonic acid), C.l. 60730 (monosodium salt of 2-[(9,10-dihydro-4- hydroxy-9,10-dioxo-1 -anthracenyl)amino]-5-methylbenzenesulfonic acid), C.l. 15510 (monosodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-1 -naphthalenyl)azo]benzenesulfonic acid), C.l.
  • the anionic direct dyes represent from 0.001 % to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C, better still from 0.005% to 10% by weight, pref- erentially from 0.01 % to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.02% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
  • Said anionic beneficial agent(s) chosen from anionic UV-screening agents and ani- onic direct dyes may represent in total from 0.001 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 % to 15% by weight and in particular from 0.05% to 10% by weight, or even from 0.02% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
  • composition C according to the invention may also comprise one or more cat- ionic surfactants such as cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrime- thylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammo- nium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; one or more C12-C30 fatty alco- hols; one or more C12-C32 fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; one or more silicones.
  • cat- ionic surfactants such as cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium or dip
  • the washing composition A and/or the care composition B and/or the cosmetic corn- position C according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from Ci-C 4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.
  • Ci-C 4 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol
  • polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols
  • the washing composition A has a water content of between 40% and 95% by weight, preferably between 50% and 90%, preferentially between 60% and 85% by weight and better still between 65% and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the washing composition A generally ranges from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6.5, preferentially from 4 to 6 and better still from 4.2 to 5.5.
  • the care composition B has a water content of between 50% and 99% by weight, preferably between 60% and 98%, preferentially between 70% and 95% by weight and better still between 80% and 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the care composition B generally ranges from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6 and better still from 3.5 to 5.
  • the cosmetic composition has a water content of between 70% and 99.99% by weight, preferably between 75% and 99.95%, preferentially between 80% and 99.90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition C generally ranges from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6 and preferentially from 4 to 5.
  • the pH of these compositions may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents that are usually used.
  • basifying agents examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkanola- mines, and mineral or organic hydroxides.
  • acidifying agents examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid or sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention comprises a step that consists in applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic washing composition A as de- fined above.
  • This step may be followed by a step of leaving the composition on, for example a leave-on time of 1 to 15 minutes and especially 2 to 5 minutes; it may also be fol- lowed by a rinsing step, for example with water, and/or a drying step.
  • the step of applying composition A is followed by rinsing only, i.e. without a drying step.
  • the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention also comprises a step that consists in applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic composition B as defined above.
  • This step may be followed by a step of leaving the composition on, for example a leave-on time of 1 to 30 minutes and especially 2 to 20 minutes; it may also be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water, and/or a drying step.
  • the step of applying composition B is followed by rinsing, optionally fol- lowed by drying; preferentially, there is no drying.
  • the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention also comprises a step that consists in applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic composition C as defined above.
  • This step may be followed by a step of leaving the composition on, for example a leave-on time of 1 to 30 minutes and especially 2 to 20 minutes; it may also be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water, and/or a drying step.
  • the step of applying composition C is followed by rinsing, and by drying.
  • the step of applying composition C may also be followed by a step of heat treatment of the fibers using a heating tool, for example with the aid of a straightening or curling iron, for example from 40 to 250°C, preferably 40-100°C or even 40-80°C, for ex- ample with a hairdryer, a hood, or even a hood of Climazon type.
  • the step of applying the washing composition A, the step of applying composition B and the step of applying composition C are performed successively, or sequen- tially, which means that the step of applying the washing composition A comes be- fore the step of applying composition B, which itself comes before the step of apply- ing composition C; intermediate steps, for example of leaving to stand and/or of rinsing and/or of drying, may be present between these three application steps.
  • the process comprises at least the following steps:
  • composition B according to the invention, optionally followed by rinsing and drying, this step possibly being repeated a certain number of times, and then
  • composition C according to the invention optionally followed by rinsing and drying.
  • Example 1 Compositions
  • compositions were prepared (content expressed as percentage by weight of active material).
  • a shampoo is applied to a malleable wet mini-head at a rate of 2 g of shampoo per half-head.
  • the formulation applied is shampoo A1 of example 1 ; on the other side, it is a commercial shampoo formulation (Total Repair 5 from Elseve).
  • Total Repair 5 from Elseve
  • 4 g of care corn- position B1 above are applied to the entire malleable mini-head (i.e. 2 g per half- head).
  • the composition is left on for 5 minutes and then rinsed out (water 38°C, flow rate 3 l/minute).
  • the mini-head then underwent a cycle of 10 shampoo washes, each shampoo wash being followed by a step of rinsing and of drying with a hairdryer, before the next shampoo wash; the shampoo used is a commercial shampoo (DOP chamomile).
  • DOP chamomile a commercial shampoo
  • a shampoo A1 of example 1 is applied to a malleable wet mini-head at a rate of 4 g of shampoo for the entire head (i.e. 2 g per half-head).
  • red coloring is more uniformly distributed on the hair treated with composition B1 .
  • the color is present, but non- uniformly (some areas colored, other areas not colored), and less intense.
  • the mini-head then underwent a cycle of 10 shampoo washes, each shampoo wash being followed by a step of rinsing and of drying with a hairdryer, before the next shampoo wash; the shampoo used is a commercial shampoo (DOP chamomile).
  • DOP chamomile a commercial shampoo
  • Example 4 comparative data
  • compositions were prepared (content expressed as percentage by weight of active material).
  • Composition A ⁇ was applied to wet locks of hair (natural hair, 90% white, 20 cm long) in a proportion of 0.37 g of composition per gram of hair. Then, the locks were rinsed with water.
  • composition B1 was applied to wet locks, in a proportion of 0.74 g of corn- position per gram of hair; after a leave-on time of 5 minutes, the locks were rinsed with water.
  • composition C1 was applied to wet locks, in a proportion of 1 ,10 g of compo- sition per gram of hair; after a leave-on time of 5 minutes, the locks were rinsed with water and dried with a hairdryer.
  • Composition A’2 was applied to wet locks of hair (natural hair, 90% white) in a pro- portion of 0.37 g of composition per gram of hair. Then, the locks were rinsed with water.
  • composition B1 was applied to wet locks, in a proportion of 0.74 g of corn- position per gram of hair; after a leave-on time of 5 minutes, the locks were rinsed with water and dried with a hairdryer.
  • the coloration of the locks was measured in the CIE L * a * b * system using a Konica Minolta CM-3600D spectrocolorimeter (specular mode included under illuminant D65, angle 10°).
  • L * indicates the lightness of the color of the hair. The lower the value of L * , the more intense or darker the color of the hair.
  • Color uptake was evaluated by calculating the variation in color (DE) between the locks of untreated hair (hair before coloration) and the locks of dyed hair (after col- oration). The higher the value of DE, the better the color uptake.
  • inventive process provided increased color uptake than comparative pro- cess; treatment of hair with inventive process provided a more intense coloration along the hair.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process, especially for dyeing and/or antisun-protecting keratin fibers, comprising: - a step (a) of applying a washing cosmetic composition A comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactants (i); (iii) one or more nonionic surfactants; (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers; - a step (b) of applying a cosmetic care composition B comprising one or more cationic surfactants, and one or more fatty alcohols, preferably comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, - a step (c) of applying a cosmetic composition C comprising one or more anionic dyes and/or one or more anionic sunscreens.

Description

l
Keratin fiber treatment process comprising the application of a washing composition, a care composition and then a beneficial composition
The present invention relates to a process for cosmetically treating keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers and especially human keratin fibers such as the hair, which consists in sequentially applying a cosmetic washing composition, a cosmetic care composition comprising one or more cationic surfactants and one or more fatty alcohols, and a cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic direct dyes or anionic screening agents.
Dyeing of the hair is generally based on chemical reactions and transformations that are liable to damage the hair fiber. Milder solutions, known as makeup solutions and based on weak physicochemical interactions, make it possible to deposit dyes at the surface without harming the fiber integrity.
Thus, it is known practice to dye keratin fibers and in particular human hair with dye compositions containing "direct" dyes, which are colored or coloring molecules that have affinity for keratin fibers, and among which mention may be made in particular of dyes of nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine and triarylmethane type or natural dyes. Compositions containing one or more direct dyes are applied to the keratin fibers for a time necessary to obtain the desired coloring, and are then rinsed out. The colorings that result therefrom are particularly chromatic colorings which are, however, temporary or semi-permanent since the nature of the interactions that bind the direct dyes to the keratin fiber and their de- sorption from the surface and/or the core of the fiber are responsible for their weak dyeing power and their poor persistence with respect to light, washing or perspira- tion. These compositions are thus generally intended for dyeing fibers for a short period, for example withstanding one or two shampoo washes. The persistence of this type of hair makeup/coloring may be improved by succes- sively applying a fiber cationizing treatment, for example a shampoo containing and depositing cationic polymers, immediately followed by an anionic dye solution. Such coloring proves to be only partially satisfactory since it nonetheless fades out in the course of shampoo washes. In addition, certain cosmetic properties of the fiber such as the feel quality, the softness, the suppleness, and the final dye result, more par- ticularly the uniformity of the color, are not always satisfactory and can also be im- proved.
There is thus a real need to find a cosmetic treatment process for imparting quality coloring to the hair, especially in terms of uniformity of the color, without harming the fiber integrity; this thus also makes it possible to obtain improved fiber qualities, in particular in terms of feel, softness, suppleness and disentangling.
In addition, by means of the process according to the invention, an improvement in the persistence of the color with respect to shampooing (improved color persistence) is observed; this process thus also makes it possible to protect the color of dyed hair with respect to washing.
Without wishing to be bound by the present explanation, it may be thought that step (b) consisting in applying a composition comprising a cationic surfactant and a fatty alcohol modifies the charges present at the surface of the hair and thus promotes more intense and homogeneous deposition of the anionic direct dyes and/or of the anionic screening agents present in composition C. Better uniformity of the depos- ited color, improved cosmetic benefit and improved persistence and/or protection of the color and/or UV protection are thus obtained.
The term "cosmetic benefit" especially means the conditioning properties such as the smooth nature (visual and/or feel), the suppleness, the softness and/or the dis- entangling.
One subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising:
- at least one step (a) of applying to said keratin fibers a washing cosmetic compo- sition A comprising
(i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from poly- oxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof;
(ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated al- kyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactants (i);
(iii) one or more nonionic surfactants;
(iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and
(v) one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers;
- at least one step (b) of applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic care composition B comprising
(i) one or more cationic surfactants, and
(ii) one or more fatty alcohols preferably comprising at least 8 carbon atoms,
- at least one step (c) of applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic composition C comprising one or more anionic dyes and/or anionic screening agents.
Preferably, the cosmetic washing composition A according to the process of the invention comprises (v) one or more cationic polymers and one or more amphoteric polymers.
A subject of the present invention is also a process for dyeing and/or antisun-pro- tecting keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising:
- at least one step (a) of applying to said keratin fibers a washing cosmetic compo- sition A comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from poly- oxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof;
(ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated al- kyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactants (i);
(iii) one or more nonionic surfactants;
(iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and
(v) one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers;
- at least one step (b) of applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic care composition B comprising
(i) one or more cationic surfactants, and
(ii) one or more fatty alcohols preferably comprising at least 8 carbon atoms,
- at least one step (c) of applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic composition C comprising one or more anionic dyes and/or one or more anionic sunscreens.
Surprisingly, it has been found that the color could be persistent after at least 10 shampoo washes.
Implementation of the invention makes it possible especially to obtain the desired properties immediately on application, and in particular suppleness, smoothness, volume and a non-charged, natural feel of the coloring and/or UV protection, while at the same time keeping the hair strands light and individualized; this process most particularly gives the hair improved capacity for disentangling.
In the case of coloring with anionic direct dyes, the dyeing performance qualities are improved relative to the usual results; this may be reflected by a shorter leave-on time and/or a lower concentration of anionic dye in the composition to achieve the desired level of dyeing. It has also been observed that these desired properties, obtained on implementing the invention, are especially persistent with respect to shampoo washing.
Specifically, it has been found that the process according to the invention can im- prove the persistence of the conditioning (or of the conditioning properties) and/or of the coloring and/or protection afforded; the conditioning properties may especially be persistent on shampoo washing at least three times, in particular on shampoo washing at least four times, and better still shampoo washing at least five times, or even shampoo washing at least six times.
The particularly persistent conditioning properties are especially the suppleness of the hair, and/or its smooth feel (smoothing) and/or its ease of disentangling.
Moreover, it has also been found that the use of a washing composition A according to the invention has a sparingly aggressive nature, since the application of the corn- position to the hair fiber in the long run causes little damage associated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins contained in or at the surface of said fiber. In addition, the washing composition A according to the invention allows good deposition, or even good penetration, of the anionic beneficial agents on/in the keratin fibers and thus makes it possible to obtain improved conditioning action. The time which separates the application of the washing composition A from the application of composition C according to the invention depends on the consumers’ need to wash their hair and/or the frequency at which they perform their shampoo washes. There are no particular constraints regarding this time, which may range from a few minutes (the application of the washing composition A is immediately followed by the application of composition B and then of composition C) to a few days; this time may especially range from 30 seconds to 7 days, for example from 1 minute to 4 days, better still from 2 minutes to 3 days, or even from 5 minutes to 48 hours, and better still from 10 minutes to 24 hours.
Preferably, composition B is applied to wet hair, after rinsing out composition A, preferably immediately after rinsing out composition A. Preferably, composition B is left to stand on the hair for a time ranging especially from 1 to 15 minutes, better still from 2 to 10 minutes and ideally 4-6 minutes.
Composition C is advantageously applied to wet hair, after rinsing out composition B, preferably immediately after rinsing out composition B. Preferably, composition C is left to stand on the hair for a time ranging especially from 1 to 15 minutes, better still from 2 to 10 minutes, ideally 4-6 minutes; before rinsing out composition C (rins- ing of the hair).
Preferentially, composition C is applied immediately after composition B, which is itself applied immediately after the washing composition A; the term "immediately" means a time of the order of 1 to 15 minutes, especially of the order of 2 to 10 minutes.
In the present description, the term“care composition" denotes a composition which can afford haircare, especially conditioning; it is a cosmetic composition, especially a hair composition, and not at all a pharmaceutical or therapeutic composition. In the present description, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expres- sion "one or more" and can be replaced therewith. The expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from... to" and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included. Washing composition A
The cosmetic washing composition A used in the context of the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof (i) and one or more additional anionic surfactants (ii), other than the anionic surfactants (i).
Thus, for the purposes of the invention, the washing composition A comprises at least two different anionic surfactants.
The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. In the present description, a species is termed "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged spe- cies, under the conditions of use of the washing composition A and/or B of the in- vention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
(I) Polvoxyalkylenated alkvKamidolether carboxylic acids
The washing composition A of the invention contains at least one anionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups.
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1 ):
R1 -(OC2H4)— OCH2COOA (1 )
in which:
- Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (Cs-Cgjal- kylphenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical;
preferably, R1 is a Cs to C20 and preferably Cs to C18 alkyl radical,
- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and pref- erably from 2 to 10,
- A denotes a hydrogen atom, an ammonium group, a sodium atom, a potassium atom, a lithium atom, a magnesium atom, a calcium atom or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
Use may also be made of mixtures of compounds of formula (1 ), in particular mix- tures of compounds bearing different groups R1.
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that are particularly pre- ferred are those of formula (1 ) in which:
- R1 denotes a Ci2-Ci4 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
- A denotes a hydrogen atom or a sodium atom, and
- n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.
More preferentially, use is made of the compounds of formula (1 ) in which R1 de- notes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen atom or a sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.
Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof; polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups, and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof. When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magne- sium salt. Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoeth- anolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino- methane salts. Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Among the commercial products that may preferably be used are the products sold by the company KAO under the names:
Akypo® NP 70 (Ri = nonylphenyl, n = 7, A = H),
Akypo® NP 40 (Ri = nonylphenyl, n = 4, A = H),
Akypo® OP 40 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 4, A = H),
Akypo® OP 80 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 8, A = H),
Akypo® OP 190 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 19, A = H),
Akypo® RLM 38 (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 4, A = H),
Akypo® RLM 38 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 4, A = Na),
Akypo® RLM 45 CA (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 4.5, A = H)
Akypo® RLM 45 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 4.5, A = Na),
Akypo® RLM 100 (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 10, A = H),
Akypo® RLM 100 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 10, A = Na),
Akypo® RLM 130 (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 13, A = H),
Akypo® RLM 160 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 16, A = Na),
or by the company Sandoz under the names:
Sandopan DTC-Acid (Ri = (Ci3)alkyl, n = 6, A = H),
Sandopan DTC (Ri = (Ci3)alkyl, n = 6, A = Na),
Sandopan LS 24 (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 12, A = Na),
Sandopan JA 36 (Ri = (Ci3)alkyl, n = 18, A = H),
and more particularly the products sold under the following names:
Akypo® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid),
Akypo® RLM 100,
Akypo® RLM 38.
The washing composition A according to the invention preferably comprises said polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid(s) and/or salts thereof in a to- tal amount ranging from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, better still from 1 % to 20% by weight and preferentially from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
(ii) Additional anionic surfactants As indicated above, the washing composition A according to the invention com- prises at least one additional anionic surfactant other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof (i) described above.
Preferably, the additional anionic surfactants (ii) used in the washing composition A according to the invention are chosen from among anionic surfactants including in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate and/or car- boxylate groups, and/or mixtures thereof, preferably from among anionic surfactants comprising at least one sulfate group.
The anionic surfactant(s) (ii) may be oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated. The total average number of ethylene oxide (EO) and/or propylene oxide (PO) groups may then range from 1 to 50 and especially from 1 to 10.
The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function.
They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds includ ing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; these compounds possibly being polyoxy- alkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Use may also be made of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tar- trates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- acylglutamates, in particular of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as stearoylgluta- mates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
- acylsarcosinates, in particular of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsar- cosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinates;
- acyllactylates, in particular of C12-C28 or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
- C6 -C24 and especially C12 -C20 acylglycinates;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function.
They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesul- fonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl- sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl- sulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethyle- nated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates; especially lauryl sulfosuccin- ates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates;
- alpha-olefin sulfonates;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate func- tion.
They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sul- fates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24, even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated and then preferably include from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- alkyl sulfates, especially C6-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;
- alkyl ether sulfates, especially C6-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, prefera- bly comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magne- sium or calcium salt. Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned in- clude monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopro- panolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 - propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)ami- nomethane salts. Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the so- dium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Preferentially, the anionic surfactants (ii) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- C6-C24 alkyl sulfosuccinates and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates; espe- cially lauryl sulfosuccinates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; especially palmitoylsarcosinates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglutamates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12 -C20 acylglycinates;
- alpha-olefin sulfonates;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; more preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from CS-CM and more particularly C12-C14 alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates, and most particularly lauryl (ether) sulfates.
Among the anionic surfactants (ii), use is preferably made of one or more sulfate- based anionic surfactants.
Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) are in the form of salts, and in particular alkaline salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, including amino alcohol salts, and/or magnesium salts.
Among these salts, sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium (Ci2-Ci4)al- kyl sulfates and/or sodium, ammonium or magnesium (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl ether sulfates, which are oxyethylenated, for example with 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide, are more preferably used.
Mention may be made in particular of sodium, ammonium or magnesium (C12- Ci4)alkyl ether sulfates oxyethylenated with 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, such as those sold under the name Texapon N702 by the company Cognis.
The anionic surfactant(s) (ii) may be present in the washing composition A according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 3.5% to 18% by weight and better still from 4% to 15% by weight, even better still from 4.5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A. According to a particular embodiment, the total content of anionic surfactants in the washing composition A according to the invention (i.e. the total content of surfac- tants (i) and (ii)) is between 3% and 35% by weight, preferably between 6% and 25% by weight, and preferentially between 8% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
(iii) Nonionic surfactants
The washing composition A comprises one or more nonionic surfactants.
The nonionic surfactants may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- alcohols, a-diols and (Ci_2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or else these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one Cs to C4o alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;
- condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols;
- polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5 and in particu- lar from 1 .5 to 4 glycerol groups;
- ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units;
- fatty acid esters of sucrose;
- polyoxyalkylenated, preferably polyoxyethylenated, fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils;
- N-(OQ-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives;
- amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(CIO-M acyl)aminopropylmor- pholine oxides;
- nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented especially by the general formula (2) below: RiO-(R20)t-(G)v (2)
in which:
Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms;
t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4;
v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of formula (2) de- scribed above in which:
- Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
- 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0;
- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1 -6 or 1 -4 type and preferably of 1 -4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an al- kyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8/C16 alkyl(poly)glucosides 1 ,4, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred. Among commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC un- der the names Oramix CG 1 10 and Oramix® NS 10; the products sold by the com- pany BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70, or else the products sold by the com- pany Chem Y under the name AGI O LK.
Preferably, use is made of C8/Ci6-alkyl(poly)glycosides 1 ,4, in particular as an aque- ous 53% solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.
Preferentially, the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated fatty alcohols includ ing at least one Cs to C4o, especially C8-C20 and better still C10-C18 alkyl chain, and comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more par- ticularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide; especially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4) and lauryl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-12); and
- (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (Cs-Cis alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
Better still, the nonionic surfactant(s) are preferentially chosen from the al- kyl(poly)glycosides of formula (2) above, and most particularly from (C6-C24 al- kyl)(poly)glycosides, and even more particularly (Cs-Cis alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the washing composition A comprises at least two nonionic surfactants preferably chosen from oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one C8-C20 and better still C10-C18 alkyl chain, compris- ing from 2 to 50 and in particular from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (Cs-Cis alkyl)(poly)glycosides. Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) are present in the washing composition A ac- cording to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, pref- erentially ranging from 1 % to 15% by weight, in particular ranging from 1 .5% to 10% and better still from 1 .75% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
(iv) Amphoteric surfactants
The washing composition A comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants.
In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are non-silicone surfac- tants. They may especially be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain contain- ing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
Mention may in particular be made of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobeta- ines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkyl- sulfobetaines.
Among the optionally quaternized derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the corn- pounds having the respective formulae (3) and (4) below:
Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X (3)
in which:
- Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
- Rb represents a b-hydroxyethyl group; and
- Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
- M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and
- X represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (C1- C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+ and X are absent;
Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4)
in which:
- B represents the group -CH2CH2OX’;
- B' represents the group -(ChteJzY’, with z = 1 or 2;
- X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2- COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom; - U' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH2CH(0H)S03H or the group CH2CH(0H)S03-Z';
- Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- Ra' represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C17 group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, diso- dium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoam- phodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropi- onate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and co- coamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (5):
Ra"-NHCH(Y")-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n'-N(Rd)(Re) (5)
in which:
- Y" represents the group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH2-CH(0H)S03H or the group CH2CH(0H)S03-Z";
- Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
- Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- Ra- represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;
- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Among the compounds of formula (5), mention may be made of the compound clas- sified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoas- partamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
These compounds may be used alone or as mixtures.
Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) (iv) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)al- kylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines, and also the corn- pounds of formulae (3), (4) and (5) as defined previously.
Preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3- C8)a I kyl betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and the compounds of formula (5) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).
More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (Cs- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine.
Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are present in the washing composition A according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferentially in a content ranging from 3.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
(v) Cationic and amphoteric polymers
The washing composition A may comprise one or more cationic polymers preferably having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 3 milliequivalents/gram (meq/g), better still greater than or equal to 4 meq/g, or even greater than or equal to 5 meq/g, in particular ranging from 3 to 20 meq/g, especially from 4 to 20 meq/g, or better still from 5 to 20 meq/g. The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ion- ized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar propor- tion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any ani- onic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5x106 approximately and preferably between 103 and 3x106 approximately.
Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more preferentially of:
(1 ) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or am- ides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:
Figure imgf000015_0001
in which:
- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group con- taining from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
The copolymers of family (1 ) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitro gen with lower (Ci-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Among these copolymers of family (1 ), mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chlo- ride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
- the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573;
- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the co- polymers sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP;
- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,
- polymers, preferably crosslinked polymers, of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyl tri(Ci- C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymer- ization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an ole- finically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrime- thylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion corn- prising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a cross- linked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
(2) Cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cel- lulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are in par- ticular described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have re- acted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacry- loylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dime- thyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trial kylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride). Such prod- ucts are in particular sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Rhodia.
(3) Polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxy- alkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers.
(4) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldia- mine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-un- saturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.
(5) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene pol- yamines with polycarboxyl ic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldial- kylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxy- propyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid cho- sen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the di- carboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1 .4:1 ; the resulting polyamino- amide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1 .8:1 . Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Flercosett 57 by the company Flercules Inc. or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Flercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homo- polymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corre- sponding to formula (XXXI) or (XXXII):
Figure imgf000018_0001
(XXXI) (XXXII) in which
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + t being equal to 1 ;
- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- Rio and Rn , independently of one another, denote a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a Ci-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and Rn may de- note, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R10 and Rn , independently of one another, preferably denote a CnC4 alkyl group;
- Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldial- lylammonium salts (for example chloride) for example sold under the name Mer- quat 100 by the company Nalco and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, sold in particular under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.
(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula (XXXIII) below:
Figure imgf000019_0001
(XXXIII) in which:
- R13, RM, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, ali- cyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hy- droxyalkyl aliphatic radicals,
or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitro- gen heteroatom;
or else R13, RM, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical sub- stituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
- Ai and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkyla- mino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
it being understood that Ai , R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)P- with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:
a) a glycol residue of formula -0-Z-0-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the follow- ing formulae: -(ChhChhOJx-Ch Chh- and -[CH2CH(CH3)0]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2- S-S-CH2-CH2-;
d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
Preferably, X is an anion, such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
Mention may be made more particularly of polymers that are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula:
Figure imgf000020_0001
(XXXIV)
in which R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers rang- ing from 2 to 20, and X is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
A compound constituted by units of formula (XXXIV) that is particularly preferred is the one for which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature. (9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (XXXV):
Figure imgf000020_0002
in which:
- R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, b-hydroxyethyl, b-hydroxypropyl or - ChhChhiOCh ChhJpOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X denotes an anion, such as a halide,
- A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2- CH2-.
Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1 , Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the com- pany BASF. (1 1 ) polyamines such as Polyquart® FI sold by Cognis, referred to under the name
Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
(12) polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
— CH2— CH- NH2 (A)
(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
Figure imgf000021_0001
In other words, these polymers may be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (B), preferably from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (B).
These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylfor- mamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
The weight-average molecular weight of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold in particular under the Lupamin name by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting way, the products provided under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010. Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolyzates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyeth- yleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, conden- sates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin de- rivatives.
Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from those of families (1 ), (2), (7), (8) and (10) mentioned above.
Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, the ones that may preferably be used are cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and cationic gal- actomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by the company Amerchol, cationic cyclo- polymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homo- polymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Mer- quat S by the company Nalco, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vi- nylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylo- yloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts; polymers constituted of repeating units corresponding to formula (XXXIV) above, in particular the compound Hexadi- methrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature, and mixtures thereof.
The total content of cationic polymer(s) in the washing composition A according to the invention may range from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A, preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
The washing composition A may comprise one or more amphoteric polymers. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "amphoteric polymer" denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and also anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups. The amphoteric polymers may preferably be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of:
(i) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer,
(ii) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer, and
(iii) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylic acid-type acid monomer.
Preferably, the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer are units of structure (la) below:
Figure imgf000023_0001
in which Ri denotes H or CH3 and R2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert- butylamino, dodecylamino and -NH-CH2OH radical.
Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of for- mula (la).
The unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (la) in which R1 denotes H and R2 is an amino radical (NH2) is particularly preferred. It corre- sponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammo- nium type are units of structure (lla) below:
Figure imgf000023_0002
in which:
- R3 denotes H or CH3,
- R4 denotes a group (CH2)k, with k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and prefer- ably from 2 to 4;
- R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, denote a Ci-C4 alkyl,
- Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of for- mula (lla).
Among these units derived from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer of formula (lla), the ones that are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R3 denotes a methyl radical, k is equal to 3, R5, R6 and R7 denote a methyl radical, and Y denotes a chloride anion.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type are units of formula (Ilia):
Figure imgf000024_0001
in which Rs denotes H or CH3 and Rg denotes a hydroxyl radical or an -NH-C(CH3)2- CH2-SO3H radical.
The preferred units of formula (Ilia) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.
Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (Ilia) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which Rs denotes a hydrogen atom and Rg denotes a hydroxyl radical.
The acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non-neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of for- mula (Ilia).
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a (meth)acrylamide- type monomer.
The content of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammo- nium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.
The content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:
- from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i),
- from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii), and
- from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer, a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrial- kylammonium-type monomer and a (meth)acrylic acid-type monomer such as de- scribed above.
However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said amphoteric polymers are constituted solely of units derived from monomers of (meth)acrylamide type (i), of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) and of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii). Examples of particularly preferred amphoteric polymers that may be mentioned in- clude acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA (INCI) dictionary under the name "Polyquaternium 53". Corresponding products are in particular sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by Nalco.
As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chlo- ride. An example that may be mentioned is Merquat 280 sold by Nalco.
More preferentially, the cosmetic washing composition A comprises one or more amphoteric polymers chosen, alone or as a mixture, from acrylamide/methacrylami- dopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers, and copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt.
The amphoteric polymer(s) may be present in the washing composition A according to the invention in a total amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 3% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
Advantageously, the washing composition A comprises one or more cationic poly- mers and one or more amphoteric polymers.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the washing composition A according to the invention comprises:
- one or more anionic surfactants (i) chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(am- ido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, preferably of formula (1 ) as defined above;
- one or more anionic surfactants (ii) chosen from sodium, triethanolamine, magne- sium or ammonium (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl sulfates and/or sodium, ammonium or magnesium (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl ether sulfates, which are oxyethylenated, for example with 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide; (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates; al- pha-olefin sulfonates;
- one or more nonionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising at least one Cs to C4o, especially Ce to C20 and better still C10 to C18 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, alkyl chain, and comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide; es- pecially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide and lauryl alcohol contain- ing 12 mol of ethylene oxide; and
- (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (Cs-Cis alkyl)(poly)gly- cosides;
- one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)al- kylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkyl- amido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines; and
- one or more polymers chosen from:
- cationic polymers preferably with a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 3 meq/g, preferentially chosen from dialkyldiallylammonium halide ho- mopolymers or copolymers; and
- amphoteric polymers preferably constituted solely of units derived from monomers (i) of acrylamide type, (ii) of acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of (meth)acrylic acid type.
The washing compositions A in accordance with the invention may advantageously be used as shampoos for washing and/or conditioning the hair; they are preferably applied in this case to wet hair in amounts that are effective for washing it; the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands may then be removed, after an optional leave-on time, by rinsing with water, the operation possibly being repeated one or more times.
Cosmetic composition B
The cosmetic care composition B used in the context of the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants and one or more fatty alcohols.
(i) Cationic surfactants
The cosmetic care composition B used according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants.
They are advantageously chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, sec- ondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may be made especially of:
- the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la):
Figure imgf000026_0001
in which:
the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn containing from 8 to 30 and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; and
- X is an anion chosen especially from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates;
The aliphatic groups Rs to Rn may be chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C2- Ce) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12- C22)alkyl acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.
Mention may be made especially of tetraalkylammonium halides, especially chlo- rides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyl- trimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrime- thylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride.
Mention may also be made of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or stear- amidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium halides, and especially chlo- rides, especially the product sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.
- the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (lla):
Figure imgf000027_0001
in which
R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
RM represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group,
R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl group,
X is an anion chosen especially from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates;
Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, RM denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik.
- the quaternary di- or triammonium salts of formula (Ilia):
Figure imgf000028_0001
in which:
- Ri6 denotes an alkyl group comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is op- tionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, - R17 denotes hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), Riea, Ri7a and Risa, which may be identical or different, denoting hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
- Ri8, R19, R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
- X is an anion, chosen especially from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75), sold by the company Finetex.
- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, of formula (IVa) below:
Figure imgf000028_0002
in which:
- R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,
- R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=0)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsatu- rated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27; and a hydrogen atom,
- R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=0)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsatu- rated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based groups R29; and a hydrogen atom,
- R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups,
- r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
- r1 and t1 , which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 ,
- y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
- x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,
- X is an anion,
it being understood that r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z ranges from 1 to 15,
with the proviso that when x = 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z = 0 then R25 denotes R29. The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particu- larly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or else may comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 1-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched C1 1-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1- C4)alkyl sulfate, a (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonate or a (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, a me- thanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function. The anion X- is more particularly a chloride, a methyl sulfate or an ethyl sulfate.
Use is more particularly made, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (IVa) in which:
- R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,
- x and y are equal to 1 ,
- z is equal to 0 or 1 ,
- r, s and t are equal to 2,
- R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=0)-, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon- based groups; and a hydrogen atom,
- R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=0)-; and a hydrogen atom,
- R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and prefer- ably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear. Among the compounds of formula (IVa), mention may be made of the salts, espe- cially the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxy- ethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammo- nium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldime- thylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are op- tionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures especially of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterifi cation may be followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dime- thyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, gly- col chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Evonik.
The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts. Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180. Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131 .
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from those of formula (la) or (IVa), and better still from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipal- mitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof; and more par- ticularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrime- thylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammo- nium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
The cosmetic care composition B according to the invention preferably comprises the cationic surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, prefer- ably from 0.5% to 8% by weight and preferentially from 1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(ii) Fatty alcohols
The care composition B according to the invention also comprises one or more fatty alcohols comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 28 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, or even from 14 to 20 carbon atoms.
The fatty alcohols according to the invention can be liquid or solid at ambient tem- perature and at atmospheric pressure (25°C, 1 atm). Preferably, the fatty alcohols used are solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25°C, 1 atm).
Preferably, the fatty alcohols according to the invention have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 28 carbon atoms, or better still 12 to 24 carbon atoms, or even from 14 to 20 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
Preferably, R is a linear or branched (saturated) alkyl group, preferably linear, corn- prising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 20 carbon atoms.
The fatty alcohols that can be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol (1 -hexadecanol), stearyl alcohol (1 -oc- tadecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1 -eicosanol), behenyl alcohol (1 -docosanol), lig- noceryl alcohol (1 -tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (1 -hexacosanol), montanyl alcohol (1 - octacosanol) and myricyl alcohol (1 -triacontanol).
Preferentially, the composition comprises at least one fatty alcohol chosen from ce tyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
Composition B according to the invention may comprise said fatty alcohol(s) in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, especially from 1 % to 10% by weight and preferentially from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the corn- position.
Silicone
Preferably, composition B according to the invention may comprise one or more silicones, preferably one or more amino silicones.
As silicones that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydiarylsilox- anes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also organopolysilox- anes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amino groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene or polyoxypro- pylene groups. The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphen- ylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising:
- polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C6-C24 al- kyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols and especially those sold by the com- pany Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 71 1 from the company Union Carbide; or (Ci2)alkylmethicone copolyols and especially those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;
- substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, in particular Ci-C4 aminoalkyl groups; mention may be made of the products sold under the names GP4 Silicone Fluid and GP7100 by the company Genesee, or under the names Q2-8220 and DC929 or DC939 by the company Dow Corning;
- thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee;
- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Gold- schmidt;
- hydroxylated groups, for instance polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function;
- acyloxyalkyl groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732;
- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EP 186 507, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as the product X-22-3701 E from the com- pany Shin-Etsu; or else of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil® S201 and Abil® S255;
- hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342 834; mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2- 8413 from the company Dow Corning.
The polydialkylsiloxanes may be chosen mainly from polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:
- the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;
- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm2/s;
- the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 se- ries from the company Rhodia.
In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(Ci-C2o)dialkylsiloxanes.
Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane with a hydroxy-terminated chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cy- clomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2-1401 sold by the company Dow Corn- ing.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly from linear and/or branched pol- ydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes preferably with a viscosity ranging from 1 c10 5 to 5x1 O 2 m2/s at 25°C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold un- der the following names:
- the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;
- the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;
- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;
- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;
- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1 154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term“amino silicone” means any sili cone comprising one or more primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions or one or more quaternary ammonium groups.
The amino silicones that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are advantageously chosen, alone or as a mixture, from amino silicones bearing one or more amine functions, especially primary amines, and amino silicones bearing one or more non-amidated quaternized amine functions. According to the present invention, the term "non-amidated silicone" means a sili- cone that does not comprise any amide functions (-NFIC(O)-).
The composition according to the invention may thus comprise in particular one or more amino silicones chosen from:
(a) the silicones corresponding to formula (I) below: (R1 )a(T)3-a-Si[OSi(T)2]n-[OSi(T)b(R1 )2-b]m-OSi(T)3-a-(R1 )a
in which:
- T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl or Ci-Cs alkyl group, preferably methyl, or a Ci-Cs alkoxy, group preferably methoxy,
- a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 0,
- b denotes 0 or 1 , in particular 1 ,
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and in par- ticular from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and espe- dally from 1 to 10;
- R1 is a monovalent group of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amine group chosen from the following groups: -N(R2)-CH2-CH2-N(R2)2,
-N(R2)2,
-N+(R2)3 Q-,
-N+(R2) (H)2 Q ,
-N+(R2)2HQ-,
-N(R2)-CH2-CH2-N+(R2)(H)2 Q ,
in which R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, a benzyl group or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a Ci-C2o alkyl group, and Q represents a halide ion, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
In particular, mention may be made of the amino silicones corresponding to formula (A) below:
Figure imgf000034_0001
in which:
- R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, denote a Ci-C4 alkyl group, pref- erably CH3, a Ci-C4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy, or OH,
- A and B represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched C2-Cs, pref- erably C3-C6 alkylene radical; A preferably representing a C3-C6 alkylene and B pref- erably representing a C2-C4 alkylene;
- m and n are integers that are dependent on the molecular weight (Mw) of the sili cone, and whose sum ranges from 1 to 2000. According to a first variant of formula (A), R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, each represent a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl radical, A represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is approximately between 5000 and 500 000. The compounds of this type are named“amodimethicone” in the CTFA dictionary.
According to a second variant of formula (A), R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, each represent a Ci-C4 alkoxy group or a hydroxyl radical, at least one of the groups R or R" is a Ci-C4 alkoxy group; A represents a C3 alkylene group and B represents a C2-C4 and especially C2 alkylene radical; m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 106; more particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum (m + n) being between 1 and 1000.
The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advanta- geously is equal to 0.3/1 .
Mention may be made especially of the product Belsil®ADM 652 sold by the com- pany Wacker.
According to a third variant, R and R", which are different, each represent a Ci-C4 alkoxy group or a hydroxyl radical, at least one of the groups R and R" being a C1- C4 alkoxy group, R' representing a methyl group, A representing a C3 alkylene group and B representing a C2-C4 alkylene radical; m and n are such that the weight-av- erage molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 200 000; more partic- ularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum (m + n) being between 1 and 1000.
The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 1 /0.8 and 1/1 .1 and advanta- geously is equal to 1/0.95.
Mention may be made especially of the products FinishWR® 1300 and Belsil ADM LOG1 sold by the company Wacker.
According to a fourth variant, R, R" and R' represent a methyl radical, A represents a C4 alkylene radical and B represents a C2-C4 alkylene radical; m and n are inte gers that are dependent on the molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone, and the sum of which ranges from 1 to 2000.
A silicone that is particularly preferred according to this variant is the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone", corresponding to formula (A’) below:
Figure imgf000036_0001
in which m and n are integers that are dependent on the molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone, and whose sum ranges from 1 to 2000.
Mention may be made of the product sold under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.
(b) the amino silicones of formula (II):
Figure imgf000036_0002
in which:
- R1 , R2J R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
- R5 denotes a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.
(c) the silicones corresponding to formula (III) below:
Figure imgf000037_0001
in which:
- R5, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C2-C18 alkenyl radical; preferably a methyl radical; - R6 represents a linear or branched C1-C18 divalent alkylene radical or a linear or branched C1-C18, for example Ci-Cs, divalent alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
- Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, such as acetate;
- r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;
- s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
Mention may be made especially of the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56.
(d) the quaternary diammonium silicones of formula (IV):
Figure imgf000037_0002
in which:
- R7, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a hydrocarbon-based ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms; preferably a methyl radical;
- R6, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1-C18 di- valent alkylene radical or a linear or branched C1-C18, for example Ci-Cs, divalent alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
- R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C2-C18 alkenyl radical; or a group -R6-NHCOR7, R6 and R7 being as defined above;
- X- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, for example acetate;
- r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100. A silicone of formula (IV) that is particularly preferred is the one in which all the R7s are methyl radicals and all the R6s are Ci-Cs and especially C2-C4 alkyleneoxys. In particular, mention may be made of the silicone having the INCI name: Quaternium- 80.
As commercial product, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Abil Quat 3272 or Abil Quat 3274 by the company Degussa.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones may advantageously be determined by gel permeation chromatography (room temperature 25°C, poly- styrene standard, m styragem columns, THF eluent, flow rate of 1 mm/minute, 200 mI of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry).
According to the invention, all these silicones may also be used in the form of emul- sions or microemulsions, which may comprise cationic and/or nonionic surfactants. Mention may thus also be made, as commercial product that may be used according to the invention, of the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 -7224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising a mixture of trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (IV) defined above, a nonionic surfactant of formula: CsHi7-C6H4- (OCH2CH2)4O-OH, known under the CTFA name Octoxynol-40, a second nonionic surfactant of formula: CI2H25-(OCH2-CH2)6-OH, known under the CTFA name Iso- laureth-6, and propylene glycol.
Mention may also be made of the product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC939 by Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, a cationic sur- factant, namely trimethylcetylammonium chloride, and a nonionic surfactant of for- mula CI3H27-(OC2H4)I2-OH, known under the CTFA name Trideceth-12.
Mention may also be made of the product sold under the name Wacker-Belsil ADM LOG1 by the company Wacker, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, Tride- ceth-5 and Trideceth-10.
Mention may also be made of the product sold under the trade name Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion by the company Dow Corning.
Preferably, the silicone(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular from polydime- thylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups, amino silicones, in particular of for- mula (I), and more particularly from the amino silicones of formula (A) or (A').
The composition comprises the silicone(s) in an amount preferably ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, or even from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
More particularly, the composition comprises the amino silicone(s) in an amount preferably ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight or even from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cosmetic composition C
The cosmetic composition C used in the context of the invention comprises one or more anionic beneficial agents chosen from anionic sunscreens, anionic direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anionic" means that the corn- pound comprises one or more anionic groups, i.e. one or more groups bearing an acid function, in neutralized or non-neutralized form. These anionic groups are pref- erably chosen from the following groups: -CO2H, -CO2 , -SO3H, -SO3 , -OSO3H, - OSO3-, -H2PO3, -HPO3-, -PO32-, -H2PO2, -HPO2-, -PO22-, -POH and -PO .
Preferentially, the composition comprises one or more anionic direct dyes. As anionic sunscreens that may be used, mention may be made of the UVA and/or UVB organic screening agents described below.
Organic UVA-screeninq agents
A first example is benzene-1 ,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and the various salts thereof, described in particular in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347. These screening agents correspond to general formula (XV) below:
Figure imgf000039_0001
in which F denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or a radical NFI(RI)3+ in which the radicals R1, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a C1- C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical or a group Mn7n, Mn+ denoting a polyvalent metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn+ preferably denoting a metal cation chosen from Ca2+, Zn2+, Mg2+, Ba2+, Al3+ and Zr4*. It is clearly understood that the compounds of formula (XV) above can give rise to the "cis-trans" isomer around one or more double bonds and that all the isomers fall within the context of the present invention.
Among the organic UVA-screening agents that can be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of compounds comprising at least two ben- zazolyl groups bearing sulfonic groups, such as those described in patent applica- tion EP-A-0 669 323. They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in patent US 2 463 264 and also in patent application EP-A-0 669 323. The compounds comprising at least two benzazolyl groups correspond to the gen- eral formula (XVI) below:
Figure imgf000040_0002
in which:
- Z represents an organic residue of valency (I + n) comprising one or more double bonds placed such that it completes the system of double bonds of at least two benzazolyl groups as defined inside the square brackets so as to form a totally con- jugated assembly;
- X' denotes S, O or NR6;
- R1 denotes hydrogen, C1-C18 alkyl, Ci-C4 alkoxy, a C5-C15 aryl, a C2-C18 acyloxy, SO3Y or COOY;
- the radicals R2, R3, R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, denote a nitro group or a radical R1;
- R6 denotes hydrogen, a Ci-C4 alkyl or a Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl;
- Y denotes hydrogen, Li, Na, K, NH4, 1/2Ca, 1/2Mg, 1/3AI or a cation resulting from the neutralization of a free acid group with an organic nitrogenous base;
- m is 0 or 1 ;
- n is a number from 2 to 6;
- 1 is a number from 1 to 4;
- with the proviso that 1 + n does not exceed the value 6.
Among these compounds, preference is given to those for which the group Z is chosen from the group made up of:
(a1 ) an olefin linear aliphatic C2-C6 hydrocarbon-based radical which may be inter rupted with a C5-C12 aryl group or a C4-Cio heteroaryl, in particular chosen from the following groups:
or alternatively
Figure imgf000040_0001
(b1 ) a C5-C15 aryl group which may be interrupted with an olefin linear aliphatic C2- Ce hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular chosen from the following groups:
Figure imgf000041_0001
(d ) a C3-C io heteroaryl residue, in particular chosen from the following groups!
Figure imgf000041_0002
in which R6 has the same meaning as that indicated above; said radicals Z as de- fined in paragraphs (a1 ), (b1 ) and (d ) possibly being substituted with C1-C6 alkyl, Ci-C6 alkoxy, phenoxy, hydroxyl, methylenedioxy or amino radicals optionally sub- stituted with one or two C1-C5 alkyl radicals.
Preferably, the compounds of formula (XVI) comprise, per molecule, 1 , 3 or 4 groups SOsY.
As examples of compounds of formula (XVI) that may be used, mention may be made of the compounds of formulae (a’) to (j’) having the following structure, and also the salts thereof:
Figure imgf000041_0003
Figure imgf000042_0001
O’) d’)
Among all these compounds, preference will most particularly be given to 1 ,4- bis(benzimidazolyl)phenylene-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate) (compound (d')) or a salt thereof having the following structure, sold under the name Neo Fleliopan AP® by the company Sym- rise:
Figure imgf000042_0002
Among the organic UVA-screening agents that may be used according to the pre- sent invention, mention may also be made of benzophenone compounds compris- ing at least one sulfonic acid function, for instance the following compounds:
• Benzophenone-4, sold by the company BASF under the name Uvinul
Figure imgf000042_0004
• Benzophenone-9, sold by the company BASF under the name Uvinul
Figure imgf000042_0003
Among the organic UVA-screening agents, use will more particularly be made of benzene-1 ,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) and the various salts thereof (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) produced by Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl SX®.
Organic UVB-screeninq agents
The organic UVB-screening agents are especially chosen from:
• hydrophilic cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hy- droxycinnamic acid,
• hydrophilic benzylidenecamphor compounds,
• hydrophilic phenylbenzimidazole compounds,
• hydrophilic p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds,
• hydrophilic salicylic compounds, and
• mixtures thereof.
As examples of hydrophilic organic UVB-screening agents, mention may be made of those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name:
para-aminobenzoic compounds:
• PABA,
• PEG-25 PABA, sold under the name Uvinul P 25® by BASF; salicylic compounds:
• Dipropylene glycol salicylate, sold under the name Dipsal® by Scher,
• TEA salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS® by Symrise; benzylidenecamphor compounds:
• Benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL® by Chimex,
• Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured under the name Mex- oryl SO® by Chimex; phenylbenzimidazole compounds:
• Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232® by Merck.
Use will more particularly be made of the screening agent phenylbenzimidazolesul- fonic acid, sold especially under the trade name Eusolex 232® by Merck.
Preferably, the anionic sunscreens that may be used in composition B according to the present invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from sulfonic screening agents, preferably from benzene-1 , 4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) and the various salts thereof; sulfonic benzophenone derivatives such as benzo- phenone-4; sulfonic benzylidenecamphor derivatives, such as benzylidenecam- phorsulfonic acid; phenyl benzimidazole derivatives such as phenylbenzimidaz- olesulfonic acid and salts thereof, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate.
The anionic sunscreen(s) may generally be present in the composition C according to the invention in a total amount of between 0.05% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 10% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
Anionic direct dyes
Composition C according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic direct dyes.
The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as "acid" direct dyes owing to their affinity for alkaline substances. The term "anionic direct dye" means any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. The anionic dyes may be chosen from direct nitro acid dyes, azo acid dyes, azine acid dyes, triarylmethane acid dyes, indoamine acid dyes, anthraquinone acid dyes, indigoid dyes and natural acid dyes.
According to the invention, the anionic direct dye(s) may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the anionic direct dyes of formulae (II), (IG), (III), (III'), (IV), (IV), (V), (V), (VI), (VII), (VIII) and (IX) below: a) the diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (II) or (IG):
Figure imgf000044_0001
in which formulae (II) and (IG):
R7, Re, R9, R10, RV, R'e, R'9 and R'10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
nitro, nitroso;
R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X’ and X”, which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
(0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic coun- terion;
(O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
R”-S(0)2-, with R” representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, aryl, (di)(al- kyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferentially a phenylamino or phenyl group;
R”’-S(0)2-X’- with R’” representing an alkyl or optionally substituted aryl group, X’ as defined previously;
(di)(alkyl)amino;
aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0 )-, M+ and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined previ- ously;
optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferentially a benzothiazolyl group; cycloalkyl; especially cyclohexyl;
Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; prefer- entially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl, (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or phe- nylamino groups;
or alternatively two contiguous groups R7 with Rs or Rs with Rg or Rg with R10 together form a fused benzo group A’; and RV with R's or R's with R'g or R'g with R'10 together form a fused benzo group B’; with A’ and B’ optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0 )-, M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X’-; viii) R°-X’-C(X)-; ix) R°-X’-C(X)-X"- ; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino; with M+, R°, X, X’, X” and Ar as defined previously;
W represents a sigma bond s, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i) -NR- with R as defined previously, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or alternatively Ra and Rb form, with the carbon atom that bears them, a spiro cyclo- alkyl; preferentially, W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclo- hexyl;
it being understood that formulae (II) and (I ) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical (O)CO -, M+ on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C; preferentially sodium sulfonate;
As examples of dyes of formula (II), mention may be made of: Acid Red 1 , Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41 , Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1 , Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3, Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 1 13, Acid Blue 1 17, Acid Black 1 , Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1 , Food Black 2, Food yellow 3 or Sunset Yel- low; and, as examples of dyes of formula (IG), mention may be made of: Acid Red 111 , Acid Red 134, Acid Yellow 38; b) the pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (III) and (IN'):
Figure imgf000046_0001
in which formulae (III) and (IN'):
R1 1, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl group or -(0)2S(0 ), M+ with M+ as defined previously;
RM represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a group -C(0)0 , M+ with M+ as defined previously;
R15 represents a hydrogen atom;
R16 represents an oxo group, in which case R’i6 is absent, or alternatively R15 with R16 together form a double bond;
R17 and Ris, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from:
(0)2S(0-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
Ar-0-S(0)2- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group, prefer- entially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl groups;
R19 and R20 together form either a double bond, or a benzo group D’, which is optionally substituted;
R’i6, R' 19 and R’20, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxyl group;
■ R21 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group;
Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, are as defined previously, preferentially Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group;
Y represents either a hydroxyl group or an oxo group;
- represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxyl group;
it being understood that formulae (III) and (III·) comprise at least one sulfonate rad- ical (0)2S(0-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 , M+ on one of the rings D or E; preferentially sodium sulfonate;
As examples of dyes of formula (III), mention may be made of: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and as examples of dyes of formula (IN'), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 17; c) the anthraquinone dyes of formulae (IV) and (IV):
i
Figure imgf000047_0001
R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio, preferentially substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ as defined previ- ously;
aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
(di)(alkyl)amino;
(di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
(0)2S(0-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
Z’ represents a hydrogen atom or a group N R28R29 with R28 and R29, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl;
aryl optionally substituted with one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; iii) R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X"- with R°, X, X’ and X” as defined previ- ously, preferentially R° represents an alkyl group;
cycloalkyl, especially cyclohexyl;
Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and N R’28R’29 with R’28 and R’29, which may be identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously;
it being understood that formulae (IV) and (IV) comprise at least one sulfonate rad- ical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical C(0)0 -, M+; preferentially sodium sul- fonate;
As examples of dyes of formula (IV), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251 , Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41 , Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mor- dant Red 3; EXT violet No. 2;
and, as examples of dyes of formula (IV’), mention may be made of: Acid Black 48; d) the nitro dyes of formulae (V) and (V’):
Figure imgf000048_0001
in which formulae (V) and (V):
R30, R31 and R32, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
alkoxy optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, alkylthio optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso;
polyhaloalkyl;
R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R°, X, X’ and X” as defined previously;
(0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
(di)(alkyl)amino;
(di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino; in particular, R30, R31 and R32 represent a hydrogen atom;
■ Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
W is as defined previously; W particularly represents a group -NH-;
ALK represents a linear or branched divalent C1-C6 alkylene group; in partic- ular, ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group;
■ n is 1 or 2;
p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive;
q represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive;
u is 0 or 1 ;
when n is 1 , J represents a nitro or nitroso group; particularly nitro;
■ when n is 2, J represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical -
S(0)m- with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferentially J represents a radical - SO2-; M’ represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
Figure imgf000049_0001
, which may be present or absent, represents a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups R30 as defined previously; it being understood that formulae (V) and (V) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 , M+; preferentially sodium sul- fonate;
As examples of dyes of formula (V), mention may be made of: Acid Brown 13 and Acid Orange 3; as examples of dyes of formula (V), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 1 , the sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1 -naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5- nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2-(4'-N,N-(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)ani- lineethanesulfonic acid, 4-p-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C Yellow 7; e) the triarylmethane dyes of formula (VI):
Figure imgf000049_0002
in which formula (VI):
R33, R34, R35 and R36, which may be identical or different, represent a hydro- gen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted with a group (0)mS(0 )-, M+ with M+ and m as defined previously;
R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R44, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
(di)(alkyl)amino;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
nitro, nitroso;
R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X’ and X”, which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
(0)2S(0-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic coun- terion;
(O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
or alternatively two contiguous groups R41 with R42 or R42 with R43 or R43 with R44 together form a fused benzo group: G; with G optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0 )-, M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X’-; viii) R°-X’-C(X)- and ix) R°-X’-C(X)- X”-; with M+, R°, X, X’ and X” as defined previously;
particularly, R37 to R4o represent a hydrogen atom, and R4I to R44, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl group or (0)2S(0 )-, M+; and when R43 with R44 together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted with a group (0)2S(0-)-;
it being understood that at least one of the rings G, H, I or G comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )- or a carboxylate radical -C(0)0 ; preferentially sul- fonate;
As examples of dyes of formula (VI), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 1 ; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5 and Acid Green 50; f) the xanthene-based dyes of formula (VII):
Figure imgf000050_0001
in which formula (VII):
R45, R46, R47 and R4s, which may be identical or different, represent a hydro- gen or halogen atom;
R49, R50, R51 and R52, which may be identical or different, represent a hydro- gen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
- hydroxyl, mercapto;
nitro, nitroso;
(0)2S(0-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic coun- terion;
(O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
particularly, R4g, R50, R51 and R52 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom;
G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with Re as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
L represents an alkoxide O , M+; a thioalkoxide S , M+ or a group NRf, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium;
L' represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or an ammonium group: N+RfRg, with Rf and Rg, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or optionally substituted aryl group; L’ represents particularly an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or (0)mS(0 )-, M+ groups with m and M+ as defined previously;
Q and Q’, which may be identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q’ represent an oxygen atom;
■ M+ is as defined previously;
As examples of dyes of formula (VII), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51 ; Acid Red 52; Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9; g) the indole-based dyes of formula (VIII):
Figure imgf000051_0001
in which formula (VIII):
R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and R60, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
nitro, nitroso;
R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X’ and X”, which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
(0)2S(0-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic coun- terion;
(O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with Re as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
R, and Rh, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
it being understood that formula (VIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 , M+; preferentially sodium sul- fonate.
As an example of dyes of formula (VIII), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 74. h) the quinoline-based dyes of formula (IX):
Figure imgf000051_0002
in which formula (IX): R6i represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group;
R62, R63, and R64, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
■ or alternatively R6i with R62, or R6i with R64, together form a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
it being understood that formula (IX) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ preferentially sodium sulfonate.
As examples of dyes of formula (IX), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
More particularly, the cosmetic composition C comprises one or more anionic direct dyes chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the following anionic direct dyes:
Figure imgf000052_0001
Figure imgf000053_0001
Most of these dyes are described in particular in the Colour Index published by The Society of Dyers and Colourists, P.O. Box 244, Perkin House, 82 Grattan Road, Bradford, Yorkshire, BD12 JBN England.
The anionic dyes that are most particularly preferred are the dyes designated in the Colour Index under the code C.l. 58005 (monosodium salt of 1 ,2-dihydroxy-9,10- anthraquinone-3-sulfonic acid), C.l. 60730 (monosodium salt of 2-[(9,10-dihydro-4- hydroxy-9,10-dioxo-1 -anthracenyl)amino]-5-methylbenzenesulfonic acid), C.l. 15510 (monosodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-1 -naphthalenyl)azo]benzenesulfonic acid), C.l. 15985 (disodium salt of 6-hydroxy-5-[(4-sulfophenyl)azo]-2-naphtha- lenesulfonic acid), C.l. 17200 (disodium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)- 2,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid), C.l. 20470 (disodium salt of 1 -amino-2-(4'-nitro- phenylazo)-7-phenylazo-8-hydroxy-3,6-naphthalenedisulfonic acid), C.l. 42090 (disodium salt of N-ethyl-N-[4-[[4-[ethyl(3-sulfophenyl)methyl]amino]phenyl](2-sul- fophenyl)methylene]-2,5-cyclohexadien-1 -ylidene]-3-sulfobenzenemethanaminium hydroxide, inner salt), C.l. 61570 (disodium salt of 2,2'-[(9,10-dihydro-9,10-dioxo- 1 ,4-anthracenediyl)diimino]bis[5-methyl]benzenesulfonic acid).
Use may also be made of compounds corresponding to the mesomeric or tauto- meric forms of structures (II) to (IX).
Preferably, the anionic direct dyes represent from 0.001 % to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C, better still from 0.005% to 10% by weight, pref- erentially from 0.01 % to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.02% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
Said anionic beneficial agent(s) chosen from anionic UV-screening agents and ani- onic direct dyes may represent in total from 0.001 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 % to 15% by weight and in particular from 0.05% to 10% by weight, or even from 0.02% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
Said composition C according to the invention may also comprise one or more cat- ionic surfactants such as cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrime- thylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammo- nium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; one or more C12-C30 fatty alco- hols; one or more C12-C32 fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; one or more silicones.
The washing composition A and/or the care composition B and/or the cosmetic corn- position C according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from Ci-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the washing composition A has a water content of between 40% and 95% by weight, preferably between 50% and 90%, preferentially between 60% and 85% by weight and better still between 65% and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the washing composition A generally ranges from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6.5, preferentially from 4 to 6 and better still from 4.2 to 5.5.
Preferably, the care composition B has a water content of between 50% and 99% by weight, preferably between 60% and 98%, preferentially between 70% and 95% by weight and better still between 80% and 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the care composition B generally ranges from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6 and better still from 3.5 to 5. Preferably, the cosmetic composition has a water content of between 70% and 99.99% by weight, preferably between 75% and 99.95%, preferentially between 80% and 99.90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of composition C generally ranges from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6 and preferentially from 4 to 5.
The pH of these compositions may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents that are usually used. Among the basifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkanola- mines, and mineral or organic hydroxides. Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid or sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
The cosmetic treatment process according to the invention comprises a step that consists in applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic washing composition A as de- fined above.
This step may be followed by a step of leaving the composition on, for example a leave-on time of 1 to 15 minutes and especially 2 to 5 minutes; it may also be fol- lowed by a rinsing step, for example with water, and/or a drying step.
Preferably, the step of applying composition A is followed by rinsing only, i.e. without a drying step.
The cosmetic treatment process according to the invention also comprises a step that consists in applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic composition B as defined above.
This step may be followed by a step of leaving the composition on, for example a leave-on time of 1 to 30 minutes and especially 2 to 20 minutes; it may also be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water, and/or a drying step.
Preferably, the step of applying composition B is followed by rinsing, optionally fol- lowed by drying; preferentially, there is no drying.
The cosmetic treatment process according to the invention also comprises a step that consists in applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic composition C as defined above.
This step may be followed by a step of leaving the composition on, for example a leave-on time of 1 to 30 minutes and especially 2 to 20 minutes; it may also be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water, and/or a drying step.
Preferably, the step of applying composition C is followed by rinsing, and by drying. The step of applying composition C may also be followed by a step of heat treatment of the fibers using a heating tool, for example with the aid of a straightening or curling iron, for example from 40 to 250°C, preferably 40-100°C or even 40-80°C, for ex- ample with a hairdryer, a hood, or even a hood of Climazon type.
The step of applying the washing composition A, the step of applying composition B and the step of applying composition C are performed successively, or sequen- tially, which means that the step of applying the washing composition A comes be- fore the step of applying composition B, which itself comes before the step of apply- ing composition C; intermediate steps, for example of leaving to stand and/or of rinsing and/or of drying, may be present between these three application steps.
Preferentially, the process comprises at least the following steps:
- at least one step of applying the washing composition A according to the invention, optionally followed by rinsing, this step possibly being repeated a certain number of times, and then
- at least one step of applying composition B according to the invention, optionally followed by rinsing and drying, this step possibly being repeated a certain number of times, and then
- at least one step of applying composition C according to the invention, optionally followed by rinsing and drying.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, all the amounts are indicated as weight per- centages of active material (AM) of product, unless otherwise indicated.
Example 1 : Compositions
The following compositions were prepared (content expressed as percentage by weight of active material).
1/ Washing compositions A1 and A2 (weight % of AM)
Figure imgf000056_0001
Figure imgf000057_0001
2/ Care composition B1 (Weight % of AM)
Figure imgf000057_0002
3/ Dye composition C1 (Weight % of AM)
Figure imgf000057_0003
Example 2
A shampoo is applied to a malleable wet mini-head at a rate of 2 g of shampoo per half-head. On one side, the formulation applied is shampoo A1 of example 1 ; on the other side, it is a commercial shampoo formulation (Total Repair 5 from Elseve). After rinsing out the shampoos (water 38°C, flow rate 3 l/minute), 4 g of care corn- position B1 above are applied to the entire malleable mini-head (i.e. 2 g per half- head). The composition is left on for 5 minutes and then rinsed out (water 38°C, flow rate 3 l/minute).
12 g of dye composition C1 are then applied (i.e. 6 g per half-head), the composition is left on for 5 minutes, and is then rinsed out (water 38°C, flow rate 3 I/minute) and drying is performed with a hairdryer.
It is found that the red coloring is markedly more intense on the part pretreated with shampoo A1 .
The mini-head then underwent a cycle of 10 shampoo washes, each shampoo wash being followed by a step of rinsing and of drying with a hairdryer, before the next shampoo wash; the shampoo used is a commercial shampoo (DOP chamomile). After the 10 cycles of shampooing/rinsing/drying, it is found that the color, although attenuated, persists on the side treated according to the invention; for the other side, the color is almost no longer perceptible (very attenuated) but remains slightly pre- sent; however, it is very non-uniformly distributed.
Example 3
A shampoo A1 of example 1 is applied to a malleable wet mini-head at a rate of 4 g of shampoo for the entire head (i.e. 2 g per half-head).
After rinsing out the shampoos (water 38°C, flow rate 3 I/minute), 2 g of care corn- position B1 above are applied to one side of the malleable mini-head. Nothing is applied to the other half-head. The composition is left on for 5 minutes and then rinsed out (water 38°C, flow rate 3 I/minute).
12 g of dye composition C1 are then applied (i.e. 6 g per half-head), the composition is left on for 5 minutes, and is then rinsed out (water 38°C, flow rate 3 I/minute) and drying is performed with a hairdryer.
It is found that the red coloring is more uniformly distributed on the hair treated with composition B1 . On the other side of the half-head, the color is present, but non- uniformly (some areas colored, other areas not colored), and less intense.
It is also found that disentangling is easier for the side treated according to the in- vention.
The mini-head then underwent a cycle of 10 shampoo washes, each shampoo wash being followed by a step of rinsing and of drying with a hairdryer, before the next shampoo wash; the shampoo used is a commercial shampoo (DOP chamomile). After the 10 cycles of shampooing/rinsing/drying, it is found that the color, although attenuated, persists more intensely on the side treated according to the invention; for the other side, the color is almost no longer perceptible, but remains slightly pre- sent, although non-uniformly. The intensity is thus more pronounced when the pro- cess comprises step 2.
Color protection benefit is thus observed. Example 4 : comparative data
The following compositions were prepared (content expressed as percentage by weight of active material).
- Washing compositions AΊ and A’2 (weight % of AM)
Figure imgf000059_0001
* To have the same quantity of coloring agent deposited on hair (0,093x3 = 0,279 and 0,026x3=0,078)
- Care composition B1 , as prepared in example 1
- Dye composition C1 , as prepared in example 1 a) Process according to the invention (AΊ + B1 + C1 )
Composition AΊ was applied to wet locks of hair (natural hair, 90% white, 20 cm long) in a proportion of 0.37 g of composition per gram of hair. Then, the locks were rinsed with water.
Further, composition B1 was applied to wet locks, in a proportion of 0.74 g of corn- position per gram of hair; after a leave-on time of 5 minutes, the locks were rinsed with water.
Then, composition C1 was applied to wet locks, in a proportion of 1 ,10 g of compo- sition per gram of hair; after a leave-on time of 5 minutes, the locks were rinsed with water and dried with a hairdryer. b) Comparative process (A’2 + B1 )
Composition A’2 was applied to wet locks of hair (natural hair, 90% white) in a pro- portion of 0.37 g of composition per gram of hair. Then, the locks were rinsed with water.
Further, composition B1 was applied to wet locks, in a proportion of 0.74 g of corn- position per gram of hair; after a leave-on time of 5 minutes, the locks were rinsed with water and dried with a hairdryer.
The coloration of the locks was measured in the CIE L*a*b* system using a Konica Minolta CM-3600D spectrocolorimeter (specular mode included under illuminant D65, angle 10°).
According to this system, L* indicates the lightness of the color of the hair. The lower the value of L*, the more intense or darker the color of the hair.
Color uptake was evaluated by calculating the variation in color (DE) between the locks of untreated hair (hair before coloration) and the locks of dyed hair (after col- oration). The higher the value of DE, the better the color uptake.
The following results were obtained:
Figure imgf000060_0001
As shown by the L* and DE values, locks treated with the process according to the invention exhibited significantly higher color uptake in dyeing and more intense color, in comparison with the locks treated with the comparative process.
As such, inventive process provided increased color uptake than comparative pro- cess; treatment of hair with inventive process provided a more intense coloration along the hair.

Claims

1. A cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising:
- at least one step (a) of applying to said keratin fibers a washing cosmetic compo- sition A comprising
(i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from poly- oxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof;
(ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated al- kyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactants (i);
(iii) one or more nonionic surfactants;
(iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and
(v) one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers;
- at least one step (b) of applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic care composition B comprising
(i) one or more cationic surfactants, and
(ii) one or more fatty alcohols preferably comprising at least 8 carbon atoms,
- at least one step (c) of applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic composition C comprising one or more anionic dyes and/or anionic screening agents.
2. The process as claimed in claim 1 , in which the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(am- ido)ether carboxylic acids are chosen from those of formula (1 ):
R^O^IH — OCH2COOA (1 )
in which:
- Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (Cs-Cgjal- kylphenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical;
preferably, R1 is a Cs to C20 and preferably Cs to C18 alkyl radical,
- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and pref- erably from 2 to 10,
- A denotes a hydrogen atom, an ammonium group, a sodium atom, a potassium atom, a lithium atom, a magnesium atom, a calcium atom or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue; in particular those of formula (1 ) in which:
- R1 denotes a Ci2-Ci4 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
- A denotes a hydrogen atom or a sodium atom, and
- n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10;
preferentially, R1 denotes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.
3. The process as claimed in either of the preceding claims, in which the polyoxy- alkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and/or salts thereof are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, better still from 1 % to 20% by weight and preferentially from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
4. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the washing composition A comprises at least one additional anionic surfactant, other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof (i) above; preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- C6-C24 alkyl sulfosuccinates and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates; espe- cially lauryl sulfosuccinates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; especially palmitoylsarcosinates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglutamates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12 -C20 acylglycinates;
- alpha-olefin sulfonates;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; more preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from CS-CM and more particularly C12-C14 alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates, and most particularly lauryl (ether) sulfates.
5. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the nonionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- alcohols, a-diols and (Ci-2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or else these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one Cs to C40 alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;
- condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols;
- polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5 and in particu- lar from 1 .5 to 4 glycerol groups;
- ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units;
- fatty acid esters of sucrose;
- polyoxyalkylenated, preferably polyoxyethylenated, fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils;
- N-(OQ-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives;
- amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(CIO-M acyl)aminopropylmor- pholine oxides;
- nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented especially by the general formula (2) below: RiO-(R20)t-(G)v (2)
in which:
Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms;
t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4;
v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.
6. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the nonionic surfactant(s) are present in the washing composition A in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferentially ranging from 1 % to 15% by weight, in particular ranging from 1 .5% to 10% and better still from 1 .75% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
7. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the ampho- teric surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (Cs- C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkyl- amido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines, and also:
- the compounds having the respective formulae (3) and (4) below:
Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X (3)
in which:
- Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
- Rb represents a b-hydroxyethyl group; and
- Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
- M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and
- X represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (C1- C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+ and X are absent;
Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4)
in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX’;
- B' represents the group -(ChteJzY’, with z = 1 or 2;
- X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2- COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;
- Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH2CH(0H)S03H or the group
CH2CH(0H)S03-Z';
- Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- Ra' represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C17 group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group;
and the compounds of formula (5):
Ra"-NHCH(Y")-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n'-N(Rd)(Re) (5)
in which:
- Y" represents the group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH2-CH(OH)SOsH or the group
CH2CH(0H)S03-Z";
- Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
- Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- Ra- represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;
- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3. 8. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the ampho- teric surfactants are present in the washing composition A in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferentially in a content ranging from 3.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
9. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic washing composition A comprises one or more cationic polymers preferably with a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 3 milliequivalents/gram (meq/g), better still greater than or equal to 4 meq/g, or even greater than or equal to 5 meq/g, in particular ranging from 3 to 20 meq/g, especially from 4 to 20 meq/g, or better still from 5 to 20 meq/g;
preferably chosen from:
(1 ) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or am- ides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:
Figure imgf000065_0001
in which:
- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
- A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group con- taining from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide;
(2) cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums, more particularly cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammo- nium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums;
(3) polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxy- alkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers;
(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldia- mine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-un- saturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized;
(5) polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene pol- yamines with polycarboxyl ic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents; (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two pri- mary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms;
(7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homo- polymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corre- sponding to formula (XXXI) or (XXXII):
(CH2)k ^ (CH2)k
/ \
-(CH2)t- - CR12 C(R12)-CH2 -(CH2)t- - CR12 C(R12)-CH2-
H2C H2C
CH CH,
\ / \
N (XXXII)
(XXXI) N+ Y- I
R, 10/ , 1 1 Rio
in which
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + t being equal to 1 ;
- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- R10 and R1 1 , independently of one another, denote a C1 -C6 alkyl group, a C1 -C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1 -C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and Rn may de- note, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R10 and Rn , independently of one another, preferably denote a C1 -C4 alkyl group;
- Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate;
(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula (XXXIII) below:
R 13 R 15
N+ - A1— N+— B1
R X- R
14 r'16 X-
(XXXIII)
in which:
- R13, RM, R15 and Ri6, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, ali- cyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1 -C12 hy- droxyalkyl aliphatic radicals,
or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitro- gen heteroatom;
or else R13, RM, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1 -C6 alkyl radical sub- stituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-N H-R17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
- Ai and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkyla- mino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
it being understood that Ai, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)P- with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:
a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the follow- ing formulae: -(ChhChhOJx-Ch Chh- and -[CH2CH(CH3)0]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2- S-S-CH2-CH2-;
d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-;
(9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (XXXV):
Figure imgf000067_0001
in which:
- R18, R19, R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, b-hydroxyethyl, b-hydroxypropyl or - ChhChhiOCh ChhJpOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X- denotes an anion, such as a halide,
- A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2- CH2-;
(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole;
(1 1 ) polyamines;
(12) polymers comprising in their structure: (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
Figure imgf000068_0001
(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
Figure imgf000068_0002
preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A, preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the wash- ing composition A. 10. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the cos- metic washing composition A comprises one or more amphoteric polymers espe- cially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrime- thylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers, and copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt;
preferably present in a total content of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 3% by weight and more particularly between 0.2% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
1 1 . The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the cationic surfactants present in composition B are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la):
Figure imgf000068_0003
in which:
the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn containing from 8 to 30 and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; and
- X is an anion chosen especially from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates;
- the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (lla):
Figure imgf000069_0002
in which
R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
RM represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group,
R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl group,
X is an anion chosen especially from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates;
- the quaternary di- or triammonium salts of formula (Ilia):
Figure imgf000069_0003
in which:
- Ri6 denotes an alkyl group comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is op- tionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,
- R17 denotes hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), Riea, Ri7a and Risa, which may be identical or different, denoting hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, - Ri8, R19, R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
- X is an anion, chosen especially from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate;
- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, of formula (IVa) below:
Figure imgf000069_0001
in which:
- R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,
- R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=0)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsatu- rated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27; and a hydrogen atom,
- R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=0)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsatu- rated C1 -C6 hydrocarbon-based groups R29; and a hydrogen atom,
- R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups,
- r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
- r1 and t1 , which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 ,
- y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
- x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,
- X is an anion,
it being understood that r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z ranges from 1 to 15,
with the proviso that when x = 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z = 0 then R25 denotes R29. 12. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the cationic surfactants are present in composition B in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight and preferentially from 1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with one or more hy- droxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 28 car- bon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, or even from 14 to 20 carbon atoms.
14. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty alcohols are present in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, especially from 1 % to 10% by weight and preferentially from 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.
15. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which composition B comprises one or more silicones, preferably one or more amino silicones.
16. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the cos- metic composition C comprises one or more anionic sunscreens chosen, alone or as a mixture, from sulfonic screening agents, preferably from benzene-1 ,4-bis(3- methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) and the various salts thereof; sulfonic ben- zophenone derivatives such as benzophenone-4; sulfonic benzylidenecamphor de- rivatives, such as benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid; phenyl benzimidazole deriva- tives such as phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid and salts thereof, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate.
17. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the cos- metic composition C comprises one or more anionic direct dyes chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the anionic direct dyes of formulae (II), (IG), (III), (IN'), (IV), (IV), (V), (V), (VI), (VII), (VIII) and (IX) below:
a) the diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (II) or (IG):
Figure imgf000071_0001
in which formulae (II) and (IG):
■ R7, Re, R9, R10, RV, R'e, R'9 and R'10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso;
R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X’ and X”, which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
- (0)2S(0-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic coun- terion;
(O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
R”-S(0)2-, with R” representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, aryl, (di)(al- kyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferentially a phenylamino or phenyl group; - R”’-S(0)2-X’- with R’” representing an alkyl or optionally substituted aryl group, X’ as defined previously;
(di)(alkyl)amino;
aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0 )-, M+ and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined previ- ously;
optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferentially a benzothiazolyl group; cycloalkyl; especially cyclohexyl;
- Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; prefer- entially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl, (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or phe- nylamino groups;
or alternatively two contiguous groups R7 with Rs or Rs with Rg or Rg with R10 together form a fused benzo group A’; and RV with R's or R's with R'g or R'g with R'10 together form a fused benzo group B’; with A’ and B’ optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0 )-, M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X’-; viii) R°-X’-C(X)-; ix) R°-X’-C(X)-X"- ; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino; with M+, R°, X, X’, X” and Ar as defined previously;
■ W represents a sigma bond, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i)
-NR- with R as defined previously, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or alternatively Ra and Rb form, with the carbon atom that bears them, a spiro cy- cloalkyl; preferentially, W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl;
it being understood that formulae (II) and (I ) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical (O)CO -, M+ on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C; preferentially sodium sulfonate; b) the pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (III) and (IN'):
Figure imgf000072_0001
in which formulae (III) and (IN'):
R11, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl or -(0)2S(0 ), M+ group with M+ as defined previously;
RM represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a group -C(0)0 , M+ with M+ as defined previously; R15 represents a hydrogen atom;
R16 represents an oxo group, in which case R’i6 is absent, or alternatively R15 with R16 together form a double bond;
R17 and R18, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a group chosen from i) (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously, and ii) Ar-O-
S(0)2- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferentially a phe- nyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl groups;
R19 and R20 together form either a double bond, or a benzo group D’, which is optionally substituted;
■ R’16, R' 19 and R’20, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxyl group;
R21 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group;
Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, are as defined previously, preferentially Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group; Y represents either a hydroxyl group or an oxo group;
- represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxyl group;
it being understood that formulae (III) and (III·) comprise at least one sulfonate rad- ical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 , M+ on one of the rings D or E; preferentially sodium sulfonate; c) the anthraquinone dyes of formulae (IV) and (IV)
i
Figure imgf000073_0001
R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio, preferentially substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ as defined previ- ously;
aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; (di)(alkyl)amino;
(di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
(0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
Z’ represents a hydrogen atom or a group N R28R29 with R28 and R29, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl;
aryl optionally substituted with one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; iii) R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X"- with R°, X, X’ and X” as defined previ- ously, preferentially R° represents an alkyl group;
cycloalkyl; especially cyclohexyl;
Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR’28R’29 with R’28 and R’29, which may be identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously;
it being understood that formulae (IV) and (IV’) comprise at least one sulfonate rad- ical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 , M+; preferentially sodium sul- fonate; d) the nitro dyes of formulae (V) and (V’):
Figure imgf000074_0001
in which formulae (V) and (V):
R30, R31 and R32, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
alkoxy optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, alkylthio optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso;
polyhaloalkyl;
R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R°, X, X’ and X” as defined previously;
(0)2S(0-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
(di)(alkyl)amino;
(di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino; in particular, R30, R31 and R32 represent a hydrogen atom;
Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
W is as defined previously; W particularly represents a group -NH-;
ALK represents a linear or branched divalent C1-C6 alkylene group; in partic- ular, ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group;
n is 1 or 2;
p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive;
q represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive;
u is 0 or 1 ;
■ when n is 1 , J represents a nitro or nitroso group; particularly nitro;
when n is 2, J represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical -
S(0)m- with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferentially J represents a radical - SO2-;
M’ represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; ^ when it is present, represents a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups R30 as defined previously;
it being understood that formulae (V) and (V) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 , M+; preferentially sodium sul- fonate; e) the triarylmethane dyes of formula (VI):
Figure imgf000075_0001
in which formula (VI):
R33, R34, R35 and R36, which may be identical or different, represent a hydro- gen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted with a group (0)mS(0 )-, M+ with M+ and m as defined previously; R37, R38, R39, R40, R41 , R42, R43 and R44, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
- (di)(alkyl)amino;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
nitro, nitroso;
R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X’ and X”, which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
(0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic coun- terion;
(O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- or alternatively two contiguous groups R41 with R42 or R42 with R43 or R43 with R44 together form a fused benzo group: G; with G optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0 )-, M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X’-; viii) R°-X’-C(X)- and ix) R°-X’-C(X)- X”-; with M+, R°, X, X’ and X” as defined previously;
particularly, R37 to R40 represent a hydrogen atom, and R41 to R44, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl group or (0)2S(0 )-, M+; and when R43 with R44 together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted with a group (0)2S(0-)-;
it being understood that at least one of the rings G, H, I or G comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )- or a carboxylate radical -C(0)0 ; preferentially sul- fonate; f) the xanthene-based dyes of formula (VII):
Figure imgf000076_0001
in which formula (VII):
R45, R46, R47 and R48, which may be identical or different, represent a hydro- gen or halogen atom;
R49, R50, R51 and R52, which may be identical or different, represent a hydro- gen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from: alkyl;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
nitro, nitroso;
- (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic coun- terion;
(O)CO -, IVTwith M+ as defined previously;
particularly, R4g, R50, R51 and R52 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom;
G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with Re as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
L represents an alkoxide O , M+; a thioalkoxide S , M+ or a group NRf, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium;
L' represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or an ammonium group: N+RfRg, with Rf and Rg, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or optionally substituted aryl group; L’ represents particularly an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or (0)mS(0 )-, M+ groups with m and M+ as defined previously;
Q and Q’, which may be identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q’ represent an oxygen atom;
M+ is as defined previously; g) the indole-based dyes of formula (VIII)
Figure imgf000077_0001
in which formula (VIII):
R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and R60, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
nitro, nitroso;
R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X’ and X”, which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
(0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic coun- terion;
(O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously; G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with Re as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
Ri and Rh, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
it being understood that formula (VIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 , M+; preferentially sodium sul- fonate; h) the quinoline-based dyes of formula (IX):
Figure imgf000078_0001
in which formula (IX):
R6i represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group;
R62, R63, and R64, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
or alternatively R6i with R62, or R6i with R64, together form a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
it being understood that formula (IX) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ preferentially sodium sulfonate.
18. A process for dyeing and/or antisun-protecting keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising:
- at least one step (a) of applying to said keratin fibers a washing cosmetic compo- sition A comprising
(i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from poly- oxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof;
(ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated al- kyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactants (i);
(iii) one or more nonionic surfactants;
(iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and
(v) one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers;
- at least one step (b) of applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic care composition B comprising
(i) one or more cationic surfactants, and
(ii) one or more fatty alcohols preferably comprising at least 8 carbon atoms,
- at least one step (c) of applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic composition C comprising one or more anionic dyes and/or one or more anionic sunscreens.
PCT/EP2018/084004 2017-12-22 2018-12-07 Keratin fiber treatment process comprising the application of a washing composition, a care composition and then a beneficial composition WO2019121071A1 (en)

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FR1763145 2017-12-22
FR1763145A FR3075618B1 (en) 2017-12-22 2017-12-22 PROCESS FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATINIC FIBERS COMPRISING THE APPLICATION OF A WASHING COMPOSITION, A CARE COMPOSITON THEN A BENEFIC COMPOSITION

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FR3104978A1 (en) * 2019-12-18 2021-06-25 L'oreal Process for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers comprising the application of a ready-to-use composition obtained by mixing two compositions

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