WO2019119078A1 - Sun care composition - Google Patents

Sun care composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019119078A1
WO2019119078A1 PCT/BR2017/050392 BR2017050392W WO2019119078A1 WO 2019119078 A1 WO2019119078 A1 WO 2019119078A1 BR 2017050392 W BR2017050392 W BR 2017050392W WO 2019119078 A1 WO2019119078 A1 WO 2019119078A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
present
emulsion
derivatives
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/BR2017/050392
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Ludmila Pons CAMARGO
Marcos BEZERRA
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
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Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to BR112020011071-0A priority Critical patent/BR112020011071B1/en
Priority to PCT/BR2017/050392 priority patent/WO2019119078A1/en
Publication of WO2019119078A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019119078A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/50Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient the non-active ingredient being chemically bound to the active ingredient, e.g. polymer-drug conjugates
    • A61K47/69Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient the non-active ingredient being chemically bound to the active ingredient, e.g. polymer-drug conjugates the conjugate being characterised by physical or galenical forms, e.g. emulsion, particle, inclusion complex, stent or kit
    • A61K47/6921Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient the non-active ingredient being chemically bound to the active ingredient, e.g. polymer-drug conjugates the conjugate being characterised by physical or galenical forms, e.g. emulsion, particle, inclusion complex, stent or kit the form being a particulate, a powder, an adsorbate, a bead or a sphere
    • A61K47/6927Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient the non-active ingredient being chemically bound to the active ingredient, e.g. polymer-drug conjugates the conjugate being characterised by physical or galenical forms, e.g. emulsion, particle, inclusion complex, stent or kit the form being a particulate, a powder, an adsorbate, a bead or a sphere the form being a solid microparticle having no hollow or gas-filled cores
    • A61K47/6929Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient the non-active ingredient being chemically bound to the active ingredient, e.g. polymer-drug conjugates the conjugate being characterised by physical or galenical forms, e.g. emulsion, particle, inclusion complex, stent or kit the form being a particulate, a powder, an adsorbate, a bead or a sphere the form being a solid microparticle having no hollow or gas-filled cores the form being a nanoparticle, e.g. an immuno-nanoparticle
    • A61K47/6931Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient the non-active ingredient being chemically bound to the active ingredient, e.g. polymer-drug conjugates the conjugate being characterised by physical or galenical forms, e.g. emulsion, particle, inclusion complex, stent or kit the form being a particulate, a powder, an adsorbate, a bead or a sphere the form being a solid microparticle having no hollow or gas-filled cores the form being a nanoparticle, e.g. an immuno-nanoparticle the material constituting the nanoparticle being a polymer
    • A61K47/6933Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient the non-active ingredient being chemically bound to the active ingredient, e.g. polymer-drug conjugates the conjugate being characterised by physical or galenical forms, e.g. emulsion, particle, inclusion complex, stent or kit the form being a particulate, a powder, an adsorbate, a bead or a sphere the form being a solid microparticle having no hollow or gas-filled cores the form being a nanoparticle, e.g. an immuno-nanoparticle the material constituting the nanoparticle being a polymer the polymer being obtained by reactions only involving carbon to carbon, e.g. poly(meth)acrylate, polystyrene, polyvinylpyrrolidone or polyvinylalcohol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A61K8/987Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds

Definitions

  • the present invention is directed to a sun care composition with high SPF, which comprises an association of a specific emulsifying system, a specific thickener polymer and a UV filter system, the process of manufacturing the composition and its uses.
  • UVA/UVB sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely, inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
  • UVB radiation causes skin reddening and sunburn, tends to damage the skin more superficial epidermal layers. It plays a key role in the development of skin cancer and a contributory role in tanning and photoaging.
  • the UVA radiation is the dominant tanning ray, and we now know that tanning, whether outdoors or in a salon, causes cumulative damage over time. A tan result from injury to the skin's DNA; the skin darkens in an imperfect attempt to prevent further DNA damage. These imperfections, or mutations, can lead to skin cancer.
  • the long UVA radiations are the less energetic UVA radiation and therefore, they were considered as“less dangerous”. But they are numerous in our environment, as they represent more than 75% of UV rays reaching earth. So it is worth studying their skin impact as they will be repeated every day for a long period of time.
  • the UV filters may either protect against UVA radiation (long wave), UVB radiation (shortwave), or both.
  • UVA radiation long wave
  • UVB radiation shortwave
  • SPDF Sun Protection Factor
  • UVA ratings the degree of UV protection afforded by a sunscreen composition is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters contained therein. The higher the amount of UV filters, the greater the degree of UV protection.
  • sunscreen compositions have been proposed to overcome the effects induced by UVA and/or UVB radiation.
  • They generally contain organic or mineral UV-screening agents, which function according to their own chemical nature and according to their own properties by absorption, reflection or scattering of the UV radiation.
  • they generally contain mixtures of liposoluble organic screening agents and/or of water- soluble UV-screening agents combined with metal oxide pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
  • the sunscreen compositions having UVA or UVB or UVA/UVB filter systems commonly used in the sunscreen cosmetic market are generally in the form of oil, an oil-in-water emulsion (stabilized dispersion of an oily phase in an aqueous phase) or a water-in-oil emulsion (stabilized dispersion of an aqueous phase in an oily phase) comprising at least one oily phase comprising solvents and oils.
  • composition that not only protects the keratin fibers from the damages of the sun, but also hydrates and protects the skin against the pollution and loss of water.
  • the inventors succeeded to overcome the problems of the state of the art and surprisingly revealed a stable sun care composition with high SPF, by the specific combination of an emulsifying system, a specific thickener polymer and a UV filter system of the present invention.
  • the present invention is directed to provide a stable sun care composition with high SPF which comprises an association of specific emulsifying system comprising polyglyceryl-6 distearate and jojoba esters and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax and cetyl alcohol; a thickener polymer selected from acrylate/C-io-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers; and a UV filter system, the process of manufacturing the composition and its uses.
  • composition of the present invention presents a high level of UV- protection in order to protect the keratin fibers from the damages of the sun, having properties of hydrating and protecting the skin against the pollution and loss of water.
  • FIG. 1 (a) to (c) are microscopic photographs of the visual aspect of the final composition of the present invention, demonstrating the stability of the emulsion over 1 and 2 months, at different temperatures of 4, 25 and 45 Q C.
  • FIG. 2 (a) and (b) are photographs of the visual aspect of the composition of the present invention when the neutralization is made before and after emulsification, respectively.
  • FIG 3 (a) and (b) are microscopic photographs of the composition of the present invention when the neutralization is made before and after the emulsification, respectively.
  • the sun care composition of the present invention comprises:
  • a thickener polymer selected from acrylate/Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers
  • the composition according to the invention provides excellent sensorial performance as well as surprisingly high SPF values associated to a strong stability over the time.
  • the pH of the sun care composition of the invention is preferably within the range of about 6.2 to about 7.5, more preferably, of about 6.5.
  • the density of the sun care composition of the invention is preferably within the range of about 0.9 g/cm 3 to about 1 .1 g/cm 3 , more preferably, of about 1 .0 g/cm 3 .
  • the viscosity of the sun care composition of the invention is preferably within the range of about 1600 mPa.s to about 3300mPa.s and more preferably, of about 1800 to about 2300 mPa.s.
  • the sun care composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor ranging from 30 to 70.
  • the sun care composition of the presents invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65 and 70.
  • the sun care composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 30.
  • the sun care composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 50.
  • the sun care composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 70.
  • Both the Sun Protection Factor 30, 50 and 70 means that if one burns in the sun after 10 minutes with no sunscreen, it will take thirty, fifty or seventy times longer to burn equivalently when the product is applied as directed.
  • the sun care composition of the invention is in the form of an oil in water (O/W) emulsion.
  • the sun care composition of the invention can be used as a daily product for the skin.
  • the sun care composition of the present invention presents fine and light sensation on the skin, auto-adaptation to climate and seasons and pleasure upon application.
  • the composition of the invention is for the manufacture of a product for preventing sunburns, hydrating and protecting the skin against the pollution and loss of water.
  • the expression“at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
  • All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub range, etc.
  • the suitable emulsifying system of the present invention is a natural, PEG-free, O/W sensory emulsifier, which adapts to climate and creates active textures, bringing moisturization and pleasure on application.
  • the emulsifying system of the composition of the present invention comprises a mixture of polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Jojoba Esters, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax and Cetyl Alcohol.
  • Emulium Mellifera from Gatefosee.
  • the emulsifying system may be present at a concentration of about 1.5% to about 4%, preferably of about 2.0% to about 3.5% and even more preferable between about 2.5 to about 3.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the thickener polymer of the present invention is an aqueous acid polymer used to structure the formulation, since the emulsifying system composed by a mixture of wax and esters, sensitive to low pH, is not properly stable.
  • the suitable thickener polymer of the present invention is chosen from polymers such as the products sold under the name CARBOPOL (CTFA name: carbomer), homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or the salts thereof and the esters thereof, such as the products sold under the names CARBOPOL ULTREZ 21 POLYMER (acrylates/C 10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) (from Lubrizol).
  • CARBOPOL CFA name: carbomer
  • CARBOPOL ULTREZ 21 POLYMER acrylates/C 10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
  • the thickener polymer may be present at a concentration of about 0.01 % to about 10% by weight, such as from about 0.1 % to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Non-limiting suitable UV filter system of the present invention could be as follows:
  • oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in an oil phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an oil fatty phase.
  • Non-limiting examples of oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US2463264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in applications US5237071 , US5166355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP8931 19; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as
  • cinnamic derivatives include, but are not limited to, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name“Parsol ® MCX” by DSM Nutritional Products, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name“Neo Heliopan ® E 1000” by Symrise, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
  • ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name“Parsol ® MCX” by DSM Nutritional Products
  • isopropyl methoxycinnamate isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name“Neo Heliopan ® E 1000” by Symrise
  • DEA methoxycinnamate diisopropyl
  • dibenzoylmethane derivatives include, but are not limited to, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane sold especially under the trade name “Parsol ® 1789” by DSM, isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
  • suitable salicylic derivatives include, but are not limited to, homosalate sold under the name“Eusolex ® HMS” by Rona/EM Industries, ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name“Neo Heliopan ® OS” by Symrise, dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name“DipsalTM” by Scher, TEA salicylate sold under the name“Neo Heliopan ® TS” by Symrise.
  • beta, beta -Diphenylacrylate derivatives examples include, but are not limited to, octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name“Uvinul ® N539” by BASF, etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name“Uvinul ® N35” by BASF.
  • benzophenone derivatives examples include, but are not limited to, benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name “Uvinul ® 400” by BASF, benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name“Uvinul ® D50” by BASF, benzophenone-
  • Suitable benzylidenecamphor derivatives include, but are not limited to, 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name“MexorylTM SD” by Chimex, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name“Eusolex ® 6300” by Merck, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name “MexorylTM SW” by Chimex.
  • Suitable phenylbenzotriazole derivatives include, but are not limited to, drometrizole trisiloxane sold under the name“silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol sold in solid form under the trade name“MIXXIM BB/100” by Fairmount Chemical, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion under the trade name “Tinosorb ® M” by Ciba Specialty Chemicals.
  • triazine derivatives include, but are not limited to, bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine sold under the trade name “Tinosorb ® S” by BASF, ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name “Uvinul ® T150” by BASF, diethylhexyl butamido triazone sold under the trade name “Uvasorb ® FIEB” by Sigma 3V, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s- triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-S triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, symmetrical triazine screening agents described in patent US 6,225,
  • An example of a suitable anthranilic derivative includes, but is not limited to, menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name“Neo Fleliopan ® MA” by Symrise.
  • Imidazoline derivatives An example of a suitable imidazoline derivative includes, but is not limited to, ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
  • Benzalmalonate derivative includes, but is not limited to, polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for instance polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name “Parsol ® SLX” by DSM Nutritional Products.
  • Examples of a suitable 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative includes, but is not limited to, 1 -Dicarboxy(2,2’-dimethylpropyl)-4, 4-diphenyl-butadiene.
  • benzoxazole derivative includes, but is not limited to, 2,4-bis[5-(1 -dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2- ethylhexyl)imino-1 ,3,5-triazine sold under the name Uvasorb ® K2A by Sigma 3V, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient will be chosen from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, octocrylene, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 3% to about 25% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 5% to about 20% by weight, and most preferably about 7% to about 18% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • The“water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient” means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
  • Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (Ecamsule), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulizole), benzophenone-4, aminobenzoic acid (PABA), 4-Bis(polyethoxy)-para-aminobenzoic acid polyethoxyethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA), camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Bisoctrizole), disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (Bisdisulizole disodium), and tris-biphenyl triazine; their derivatives and corresponding salts; naphthalene bisimide derivatives such as those described in European patent application EP1990372 A2, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated
  • the salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from salts of alkali metals, for example sodium or potassium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminium, manganese or copper; salts of ammonium of formula NH4+; quaternary ammonium salts; salts of organic amines, for instance salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2- hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine or arginine salts.
  • Salts chosen from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese or zinc salts are preferably used.
  • the sodium salt is preferably used.
  • the water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient will be chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, and most preferably about 1 % to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the “silica-coated titanium dioxide sunscreen ingredient” means spherical beads which are formed by encapsulating titanium dioxide particles in silica.
  • Non-limiting examples of silica coated titanium dioxide sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, titanium dioxide coated with silica, such as the product“Sunsil Tin50” from Sunjin Chemical known under the INCI name silica (and) titanium dioxide having a composition of silica: titanium dioxide of about 55:45 and having a particle size from about 2 microns to about 7 microns.
  • the silica-coated titanium dioxide sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 1 % to about 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 2% to about 10% by weight, and most preferably about 5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the suitable UV filter system of the present invention comprises terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, octocrylene and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, which are preferably known as MexorylTM SX and UV System, respectively.
  • the concentration of the mixture of sunscreen/UV filters in the system may be between about 5% to about 35%, preferably between about 7% to about 30% and even more preferably between about 10 to about 29% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from such as additional sunscreens, perfume/fragrance, polymers, preserving agents, solvents, actives, surfactants, fat materials, vitamins, fillers and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to, synthetic wax.
  • Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol.
  • Suitable fillers of the invention could be as examples of oil-absorbing fillers: mica, zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, ptfe, polymethyl methacrylate, oryza sativa (rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, potato starch modified, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, hydrated silica, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, sodium carboxylmethyl starch.
  • Suitable solvents include, but are not limited to water, alcohols, glycols and polyols such as glycerin, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the solvent is present in a concentration from about 15 to 00% by weight, or from about 20 to about 80% by weight, or from about 30 to about 70% by weight, or from about 35 to about 75% by weight, or preferably from about 40 to about 70% by weight, and more preferably from about 45 to about 65% by weight, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of the present disclosure.
  • Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, disodium
  • surfactants may also be used in the compositions of the present invention non limiting examples of surfactants suitable for use are fatty acids, glyceryl esters in addition to glyceryl stearate, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, such as stearic acid, laureth- 12, glyceryl isostearate, disodium stearoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.
  • Exemplary fat or oil materials include, but are not limited to, esters, fatty acids, synthetic oils, and hydrocarbons/paraffins, such as stearyl alcohol, myristic acid, palmitic acid silicones mineral oil, plant/vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.
  • the additional ingredients may represent from 60% to 85%, such as from 60%to 82% or such as from 65 to 80% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • a suitable composition of the invention is as Examples 1 , as follows:
  • a pH test was conducted in order to evaluate the pH of the composition of the invention via fast conception to prove that the neutralization phase of the polymers impacts on the final formula.
  • test 1 Polymer neutralization on aqueous phase
  • test 2 Polymer neutralization after the emulsion:
  • FIG. 2 and FIG. 3 it is possible to observe the microscopy of these two processes wherein the neutralizing of the aqueous phase with the polymer, before the emulsification, provides a thinner and homogeneous emulsion.

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Abstract

The present invention is directed to a sun care composition with high SPF, which comprises an association of a specific emulsifying system, a structuring semi-crystalline polymer and a UV filter system, the process of manufacturing the composition and its uses.

Description

SUN CARE COMPOSITION
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to a sun care composition with high SPF, which comprises an association of a specific emulsifying system, a specific thickener polymer and a UV filter system, the process of manufacturing the composition and its uses.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The photoprotection of keratinous substrates, including both skin and hair, is considered of great importance in order to protect from sun-damage, sunburn, photo-aging, as well as to decrease the chances of skin cancer development caused by exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation. There are typically two types of UVA/UVB sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely, inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
The UVB radiation causes skin reddening and sunburn, tends to damage the skin more superficial epidermal layers. It plays a key role in the development of skin cancer and a contributory role in tanning and photoaging.
The UVA radiation is the dominant tanning ray, and we now know that tanning, whether outdoors or in a salon, causes cumulative damage over time. A tan result from injury to the skin's DNA; the skin darkens in an imperfect attempt to prevent further DNA damage. These imperfections, or mutations, can lead to skin cancer.
The long UVA radiations are the less energetic UVA radiation and therefore, they were considered as“less dangerous”. But they are numerous in our environment, as they represent more than 75% of UV rays reaching earth. So it is worth studying their skin impact as they will be repeated every day for a long period of time.
Thus, the UV filters may either protect against UVA radiation (long wave), UVB radiation (shortwave), or both. In the past, it was commonly held that protection against UVB radiation was the primary or even sole consideration in sun- protection. However, more recent research has revealed that exposure to UVA radiation may also be dangerous and lead to undesirable effects. As such, the current trend in sun-protection endeavors is typically to protect against both UVA and UVB in a single composition, and to increase both the Sun Protection Factor (“SPF”) and the UVA ratings of the composition. The degree of UV protection afforded by a sunscreen composition is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters contained therein. The higher the amount of UV filters, the greater the degree of UV protection.
Thus, due to the problems described above, many sunscreen compositions have been proposed to overcome the effects induced by UVA and/or UVB radiation. They generally contain organic or mineral UV-screening agents, which function according to their own chemical nature and according to their own properties by absorption, reflection or scattering of the UV radiation. Also, they generally contain mixtures of liposoluble organic screening agents and/or of water- soluble UV-screening agents combined with metal oxide pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. The sunscreen compositions having UVA or UVB or UVA/UVB filter systems commonly used in the sunscreen cosmetic market are generally in the form of oil, an oil-in-water emulsion (stabilized dispersion of an oily phase in an aqueous phase) or a water-in-oil emulsion (stabilized dispersion of an aqueous phase in an oily phase) comprising at least one oily phase comprising solvents and oils.
However, most of the available sunscreens on the market when applied to the skin presents heavy, oily and sticky sensation.
In view of the above and considering the consumer’s needs, it is desired a sun care composition with high SPF associated with a fine and light sensation on the skin, auto-adaption to climate and season and pleasure upon application.
In addition, it is desired a composition that not only protects the keratin fibers from the damages of the sun, but also hydrates and protects the skin against the pollution and loss of water.
The challenge of formulating a sun care composition having high FPS associated with the moisturizing, pollution and loss of water protection is that usual ingredients of the state of art do not achieve a stable and effective sun care composition, since the main ingredients tend to be incompatible when associated mostly due to the presence of high amounts of oily filters.
Thus, the inventors succeeded to overcome the problems of the state of the art and surprisingly revealed a stable sun care composition with high SPF, by the specific combination of an emulsifying system, a specific thickener polymer and a UV filter system of the present invention. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to provide a stable sun care composition with high SPF which comprises an association of specific emulsifying system comprising polyglyceryl-6 distearate and jojoba esters and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax and cetyl alcohol; a thickener polymer selected from acrylate/C-io-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers; and a UV filter system, the process of manufacturing the composition and its uses.
The composition of the present invention presents a high level of UV- protection in order to protect the keratin fibers from the damages of the sun, having properties of hydrating and protecting the skin against the pollution and loss of water.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
The accompanying drawings, which are included to provide a further understanding of the invention and are incorporated in and constitute a part of this specification, together with the description, serve to explain the principles of the invention.
The FIG. 1 (a) to (c) are microscopic photographs of the visual aspect of the final composition of the present invention, demonstrating the stability of the emulsion over 1 and 2 months, at different temperatures of 4, 25 and 45 QC.
The FIG. 2 (a) and (b) are photographs of the visual aspect of the composition of the present invention when the neutralization is made before and after emulsification, respectively.
The FIG 3 (a) and (b) are microscopic photographs of the composition of the present invention when the neutralization is made before and after the emulsification, respectively.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The sun care composition of the present invention comprises:
(a) an emulsifying system comprising polyglyceryl-6 distearate and jojoba esters and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax and cetyl alcohol;
(b) a thickener polymer selected from acrylate/Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers; and
(c) a UV filter system.
The composition according to the invention provides excellent sensorial performance as well as surprisingly high SPF values associated to a strong stability over the time. The pH of the sun care composition of the invention is preferably within the range of about 6.2 to about 7.5, more preferably, of about 6.5.
The density of the sun care composition of the invention is preferably within the range of about 0.9 g/cm3 to about 1 .1 g/cm3, more preferably, of about 1 .0 g/cm3.
The viscosity of the sun care composition of the invention is preferably within the range of about 1600 mPa.s to about 3300mPa.s and more preferably, of about 1800 to about 2300 mPa.s.
Furthermore, the sun care composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor ranging from 30 to 70.
In various embodiments, the sun care composition of the presents invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65 and 70.
In an embodiment, the sun care composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 30.
In an embodiment, the sun care composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 50.
In an embodiment, the sun care composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 70.
Both the Sun Protection Factor 30, 50 and 70 means that if one burns in the sun after 10 minutes with no sunscreen, it will take thirty, fifty or seventy times longer to burn equivalently when the product is applied as directed.
The sun care composition of the invention is in the form of an oil in water (O/W) emulsion.
The sun care composition of the invention can be used as a daily product for the skin.
The sun care composition of the present invention presents fine and light sensation on the skin, auto-adaptation to climate and seasons and pleasure upon application.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is for the manufacture of a product for preventing sunburns, hydrating and protecting the skin against the pollution and loss of water.
Terms As used herein, the expression“at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term“about,” meaning within +/- 5% of the indicated number.
As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub range, etc.
Emulsifying System
The suitable emulsifying system of the present invention is a natural, PEG-free, O/W sensory emulsifier, which adapts to climate and creates active textures, bringing moisturization and pleasure on application.
The emulsifying system of the composition of the present invention comprises a mixture of polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Jojoba Esters, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax and Cetyl Alcohol.
Such emulsifying system is commercially available under the tradename Emulium Mellifera (from Gatefosee).
The emulsifying system may be present at a concentration of about 1.5% to about 4%, preferably of about 2.0% to about 3.5% and even more preferable between about 2.5 to about 3.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
THICKENER POLYMER
The thickener polymer of the present invention is an aqueous acid polymer used to structure the formulation, since the emulsifying system composed by a mixture of wax and esters, sensitive to low pH, is not properly stable.
The suitable thickener polymer of the present invention is chosen from polymers such as the products sold under the name CARBOPOL (CTFA name: carbomer), homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or the salts thereof and the esters thereof, such as the products sold under the names CARBOPOL ULTREZ 21 POLYMER (acrylates/C 10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) (from Lubrizol).
The thickener polymer may be present at a concentration of about 0.01 % to about 10% by weight, such as from about 0.1 % to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
UV Filter System
Non-limiting suitable UV filter system of the present invention could be as follows:
OIL-SOLUBLE ORGANIC SUNSCREEN INGREDIENT
The “oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient” means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in an oil phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an oil fatty phase.
Non-limiting examples of oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US2463264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in applications US5237071 , US5166355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP8931 19; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described especially in patent application WO 93/04665; dimers derived from alkyl-styrene such as those described in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1 133980 and EP1 133981 , merocyanine derivatives such as those described in patent applications WO 04/006878, WO 05/058269 and WO 06/032741 ; and mixtures thereof, the entire contents of the patents and patent applications being incorporated by reference in their entirety.
As examples of other suitable oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients, mention may be made of those denoted herein below under their INCI name:
Cinnamic derivatives:
Examples of suitable cinnamic derivatives include, but are not limited to, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name“Parsol® MCX” by DSM Nutritional Products, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name“Neo Heliopan® E 1000” by Symrise, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
Dibenzoylmethane derivatives:
Examples of suitable dibenzoylmethane derivatives include, but are not limited to, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane sold especially under the trade name “Parsol® 1789” by DSM, isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
Salicylic derivatives:
Examples of suitable salicylic derivatives include, but are not limited to, homosalate sold under the name“Eusolex® HMS” by Rona/EM Industries, ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name“Neo Heliopan® OS” by Symrise, dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name“DipsalTM” by Scher, TEA salicylate sold under the name“Neo Heliopan® TS” by Symrise.
beta, beta -Diphenylacrylate derivatives:
Examples of suitable beta, beta -Diphenylacrylate derivatives include, but are not limited to, octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name“Uvinul® N539” by BASF, etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name“Uvinul® N35” by BASF.
Benzophenone derivatives:
Examples of suitable benzophenone derivatives include, but are not limited to, benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name “Uvinul® 400” by BASF, benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name“Uvinul® D50” by BASF, benzophenone-
3 or oxybenzone sold under the trade name“Uvinul® M40” by BASF, benzophenone-
4 sold under the trade name “Uvinul® MS40” by BASF, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name “Helisorb® 11” by Norquay, benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name “Spectra-Sorb UV-24” by American Cyanamid, benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name“Uvinul® DS-49” by BASF, benzophenone-12, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate sold under the trade name Uvinul® A+” or as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name“Uvinul® A+B” by BASF.
Benzylidenecamphor derivatives:
Examples of suitable benzylidenecamphor derivatives include, but are not limited to, 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name“Mexoryl™ SD” by Chimex, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name“Eusolex® 6300” by Merck, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name “Mexoryl™ SW” by Chimex.
Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:
Examples of suitable phenylbenzotriazole derivatives include, but are not limited to, drometrizole trisiloxane sold under the name“silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol sold in solid form under the trade name“MIXXIM BB/100” by Fairmount Chemical, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion under the trade name “Tinosorb® M” by Ciba Specialty Chemicals.
Triazine derivatives:
Examples of suitable triazine derivatives include, but are not limited to, bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine sold under the trade name “Tinosorb® S” by BASF, ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name “Uvinul® T150” by BASF, diethylhexyl butamido triazone sold under the trade name “Uvasorb® FIEB” by Sigma 3V, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s- triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-S triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, symmetrical triazine screening agents described in patent US 6,225,467, patent application WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM Inc., West Flenrietta, NY, US (20 September 2004), especially 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazines (in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl- 4-yl)-1 ,3,5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine, which is included in patent applications WO 06/035000, WO 06/034982, WO 06/034991 , WO 06/035007, WO 2006/034992 and WO 2006/034985).
Anthranilic derivatives:
An example of a suitable anthranilic derivative includes, but is not limited to, menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name“Neo Fleliopan® MA” by Symrise.
Imidazoline derivatives: An example of a suitable imidazoline derivative includes, but is not limited to, ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
Benzalmalonate derivatives:
An example of a suitable Benzalmalonate derivative includes, but is not limited to, polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for instance polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name “Parsol® SLX” by DSM Nutritional Products.
4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives:
Examples of a suitable 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative includes, but is not limited to, 1 -Dicarboxy(2,2’-dimethylpropyl)-4, 4-diphenyl-butadiene.
Benzoxazole derivatives:
An example of suitable benzoxazole derivative includes, but is not limited to, 2,4-bis[5-(1 -dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2- ethylhexyl)imino-1 ,3,5-triazine sold under the name Uvasorb® K2A by Sigma 3V, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient will be chosen from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, octocrylene, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof.
The oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 3% to about 25% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 5% to about 20% by weight, and most preferably about 7% to about 18% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
WATER-SOLUBLE ORGANIC SUNSCREEN INGREDIENT
The“water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient” means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (Ecamsule), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulizole), benzophenone-4, aminobenzoic acid (PABA), 4-Bis(polyethoxy)-para-aminobenzoic acid polyethoxyethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA), camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Bisoctrizole), disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (Bisdisulizole disodium), and tris-biphenyl triazine; their derivatives and corresponding salts; naphthalene bisimide derivatives such as those described in European patent application EP1990372 A2, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference; and cinnamido amine cationic quaternary salts and derivatives such as those described in United States Patent 5,601 ,81 1 , the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference, and mixtures thereof.
The salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from salts of alkali metals, for example sodium or potassium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminium, manganese or copper; salts of ammonium of formula NH4+; quaternary ammonium salts; salts of organic amines, for instance salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2- hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine or arginine salts. Salts chosen from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese or zinc salts are preferably used. The sodium salt is preferably used.
Preferably, the water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient will be chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, and mixtures thereof.
The water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, and most preferably about 1 % to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
SILICA-COATED TITANIUM DIOXIDE SUNSCREEN INGREDIENT
The “silica-coated titanium dioxide sunscreen ingredient” means spherical beads which are formed by encapsulating titanium dioxide particles in silica.
Non-limiting examples of silica coated titanium dioxide sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, titanium dioxide coated with silica, such as the product“Sunsil Tin50” from Sunjin Chemical known under the INCI name silica (and) titanium dioxide having a composition of silica: titanium dioxide of about 55:45 and having a particle size from about 2 microns to about 7 microns. The silica-coated titanium dioxide sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 1 % to about 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 2% to about 10% by weight, and most preferably about 5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
The suitable UV filter system of the present invention comprises terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, octocrylene and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, which are preferably known as Mexoryl™ SX and UV System, respectively.
According to the invention, the concentration of the mixture of sunscreen/UV filters in the system may be between about 5% to about 35%, preferably between about 7% to about 30% and even more preferably between about 10 to about 29% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Additional Ingredients
In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from such as additional sunscreens, perfume/fragrance, polymers, preserving agents, solvents, actives, surfactants, fat materials, vitamins, fillers and mixtures thereof.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to, synthetic wax.
Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol.
Suitable fillers of the invention could be as examples of oil-absorbing fillers: mica, zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, ptfe, polymethyl methacrylate, oryza sativa (rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, potato starch modified, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, hydrated silica, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, sodium carboxylmethyl starch. Suitable solvents include, but are not limited to water, alcohols, glycols and polyols such as glycerin, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
In various embodiments, the solvent is present in a concentration from about 15 to 00% by weight, or from about 20 to about 80% by weight, or from about 30 to about 70% by weight, or from about 35 to about 75% by weight, or preferably from about 40 to about 70% by weight, and more preferably from about 45 to about 65% by weight, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of the present disclosure.
Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, disodium
EDTA, triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.
In addition to the emulsifying agents of the present disclosure, surfactants may also be used in the compositions of the present invention non limiting examples of surfactants suitable for use are fatty acids, glyceryl esters in addition to glyceryl stearate, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, such as stearic acid, laureth- 12, glyceryl isostearate, disodium stearoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.
Exemplary fat or oil materials include, but are not limited to, esters, fatty acids, synthetic oils, and hydrocarbons/paraffins, such as stearyl alcohol, myristic acid, palmitic acid silicones mineral oil, plant/vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.
The additional ingredients may represent from 60% to 85%, such as from 60%to 82% or such as from 65 to 80% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples.
EXAMPLES
Example 1
A suitable composition of the invention is as Examples 1 , as follows:
Figure imgf000013_0001
Figure imgf000014_0001
Figure imgf000015_0001
Example 2
A non-limiting example regarding the preparation of the composition of Example 1 , could be as follows:
Step (A): The aqueous phase comprising water, preservatives and surfactants is mixed at a room temperature.
Step (B): The CARBOPOL ULTREZ 21 and at least one additional polymer are added to the aqueous phase by mixing well.
Step (C): Subsequently, the polymers are neutralized;
Step (D): The oily phase comprising the emulsifying system, UV filter system and fatty compound is heated up to 70°C;
Step (E): The emulsion is achieved by the addition of oily phase on the neutralized aqueous phase with a cold bath, and
Step (F): Adding the fillers, fragrance and alcohol to the emulsion of Step (E) by mixing well.
Example 3
A pH test was conducted in order to evaluate the pH of the composition of the invention via fast conception to prove that the neutralization phase of the polymers impacts on the final formula.
Both testes 1 and 2 were performed using the Speedmixer equipment. The test 1 (Polymer neutralization on aqueous phase):
Aqueous Phase - 3500 RPM, 4 minutes (3 cycles)
71 N addition- 3500 RPM, 4 minutes (1 cycle)
Oily Phase- Oven 80QC, 12 minutes, 3500 RPM, 2 min (1 cycle)
Emulsification- 3500 RPM, 4 minutes (1 cycle).
The test 2 (Polymer neutralization after the emulsion):
Aqueous Phase - 3500 RPM, 4 minutes (3 cycles)
Oily Phase- Oven 80QC, 12 minutes, 3500 RPM, 2 min (1 cycle)
Emulsification- 3500 RPM, 4 minutes (1 cycle)
71 N addition- 3500 RPM, 2 minutes (1 cycle). The polymerization and neutralization were made at the aqueous phase (gel), before the addition of the aqueous phase.
The results show that the emulsion is sensitive at low pH, which is essential to neutralize the pH of aqueous phase before the emulsion, in order to have a homogeneous final formula.
On FIG. 2 and FIG. 3 it is possible to observe the microscopy of these two processes wherein the neutralizing of the aqueous phase with the polymer, before the emulsification, provides a thinner and homogeneous emulsion.
Example 4
An accelerate stability test was conducted in order to evaluate the stability of the composition of Example 1. The composition was evaluated under controlled temperature and time (FIG. 2 (a) to (e)). The evaluated parameters were organoleptic characteristics, pH and appearing viscosity value, as follows:
Figure imgf000016_0001
<1> TO: Control performed at least 16 hours and at most 72 hours after the manufacture
(2) Conform: The composition maintained the control parameters (TO).

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS
1. Sun care composition of the present invention comprises:
(a) an emulsifying system comprising polyglyceryl-6 distearate and jojoba esters and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax and cetyl alcohol;
(b) a thickener polymer selected from acrylate/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer; and
(c) a UV filter system.
2. Composition, according to the preceding claim, wherein the amount of the emulsifying agent is from about 1.5% to about 4%, preferably of about 2.0% to about 3.5% and even more preferable between about 2.5 to about 3.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the thickener polymer of the present composition has a melting point ranging from 48 °C to 65 QC.
4. Composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of the thickener polymer is from about 0.01 % to about 5% by weight, such as from about 0.1 % to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the UV filter system of the present invention is chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, octocrylene and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.
6. Composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of the UV system of the present invention is from about 7% to 30%, such as from between about 10% to about 26%, or such as from between about 15% to about 30%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein it further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from perfume/fragrance, polymers, preserving agents, solvents, additional actives, surfactants, fat materials, vitamins, fillers and mixtures thereof.
8. Composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein it presents a Sun Protection Factor 30.
9. Composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein it presents a Sun Protection Factor 50.
10. Composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein it presents a Sun Protection Factor 70.
1 1. Composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein it is in the form of an O/W emulsion.
12. Use of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, wherein it is for the manufacture of a product to be used as sun care daily product.
13. Use, according to claim 12, wherein it is for the manufacture of a product for preventing sunburns, hydrating and protecting the skin against the pollution and loss of water.
14. Use, according to one of claims 12 or 13, wherein the composition is in the form of an O/W emulsion.
15. A method of the manufacturing the composition, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 1 1 , comprising the following steps:
Step (A): The aqueous phase comprising water, preservatives and surfactants is mixed at a room temperature.
Step (B): The CARBOPOL ULTREZ 21 and at least one additional polymer are added to the aqueous phase by mixing well.
Step (C): Subsequently, the polymers are neutralized;
Step (D): The oily phase comprising the emulsifying system, UV filter system and fatty compound is heated up to 70°C;
Step (E): The emulsion is achieved by the addition of oily phase on the neutralized aqueous phase with a cold bath, and
Step (F): Adding the fillers, fragrance and alcohol to the emulsion of Step (E) by mixing well.
PCT/BR2017/050392 2017-12-19 2017-12-19 Sun care composition WO2019119078A1 (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3124698A1 (en) * 2021-06-30 2023-01-06 L'oreal Composition comprising at least one UV screening agent, boron nitride, and a nonionic surfactant of ester type

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3124698A1 (en) * 2021-06-30 2023-01-06 L'oreal Composition comprising at least one UV screening agent, boron nitride, and a nonionic surfactant of ester type

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