WO2019115156A1 - A hair cleansing composition - Google Patents

A hair cleansing composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019115156A1
WO2019115156A1 PCT/EP2018/081685 EP2018081685W WO2019115156A1 WO 2019115156 A1 WO2019115156 A1 WO 2019115156A1 EP 2018081685 W EP2018081685 W EP 2018081685W WO 2019115156 A1 WO2019115156 A1 WO 2019115156A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition according
polyquaternium
composition
weight
peg
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PCT/EP2018/081685
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Ji Feng
Zebao JIA
Zhaoxia Bao
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
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Publication of WO2019115156A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019115156A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • a hair cleansing composition comprising
  • the present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a hair cleansing composition
  • a hair cleansing composition comprising Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, at least one cationic conditioning polymer, at least one surfactant and water.
  • a beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people. Therefore, an essential part of the daily personal care of humans is focus on the hair of the head. Cleansing and shampoo products are commonly used to remove excess of soil or sebum from the hair. However, these products often leave the hair in a dry and rough condition. To address this issue many cleansing and shampoo products comprise components providing care to the hair and/or contain conditioning agents to provide a conditioning effect.
  • conditioning agents of the above products are not only to reduce the dryness and roughness of the hair. Moreover, the richness and slipperiness, as well as the gliding and combability of the hair are improved by the conditioning agents.
  • Typically used conditioning agents are silicone containing compounds. However, these are well known for the fact that silicone residues can build up on the hair. As a result these silicone residues weigh down the hair, which reduces the hair volume. Therefore, it remains desirable to provide shampoo compositions free of silicone compounds.
  • Such compositions are known in the state of the art, but compositions avoiding the incorporation of silicone compounds have drawbacks. After the application of such compounds the hair is described to be rough, dry, difficult to detangle and difficult to comb in the wet condition. In consequence compounds were included in shampoo compositions with the aim to replace the silicone components. The use of these silicone replacements has also been disclosed in prior art.
  • EP 2138155 A2 discloses silicone free hair conditioning compositions, which include PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate to reduce the weighing down of hair while providing a conditioning effect.
  • EP 2138155 A2 does not disclose the use of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate.
  • EiS 2012/0014900 A1 describes compounds, which may be used to replace silicone compounds in hair compositions. Said components are near-terminal branched, exemplified by 14-methylhexadecyl stearate, 16-methyloctadecyl palmitate, and 12-methyltetradecylpalmitate. There is no disclosure of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate.
  • WO 2012/080224 A2 discloses non-silicone shampoo compositions comprising sclerogums, which are neutral polysaccharides.
  • the use of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate is not disclosed.
  • WO 2013/074655 A1 describes the use of natural polymeric and non-polymeric esters as a silicone replacement.
  • Such polymeric ester are produced by an esterification of one first dicarboxylic acid, one first monofunctional alcohol or monofunctional carboxylic acid and glycerin or derivatives thereof; the non-polymeric ester is produced by an esterification of one second dicarboxylic acid and one second mono functional alcohol.
  • Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate There is no disclosure of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate.
  • WO 2013/122861 A1 describes that traditional conditioning agents do not provide long-lasting benefits to keratin fibers upon washing with cleansing products like shampoos.
  • the drawbacks are overcome by the incorporation of a hydrophobically modified cationic polymer, namely a hydrophobically modified poly(acrylamido-N-propyltrimethylammonium chloride) (polyAPTAC).
  • polyAPTAC hydrophobically modified poly(acrylamido-N-propyltrimethylammonium chloride)
  • Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate is not disclosed.
  • WO 2015/136568 Al discloses silicone-free products for hair, amongst others also hair shampoos, containing an oil or mixture of oils having a selected surface tension and an oil thickener; wherein the total composition has a viscosity of about 5,000cps or higher. There is no disclosure of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate.
  • WO 2016/023694 Al describes shampoo compositions, which are silicone-free.
  • Said compositions contain an anionic surfactant in form of an alkyl sulfate surfactant, or ethoxylated alkyl sulfate, a fatty acyl isethionate, and a cationic polymer, said cationic polymer comprising cationic galactomannan and cationic cellulose.
  • Di-PPG-2 Myreth- lO Adipate is not disclosed.
  • a replacement of silicone in hair cleansing compositions should provide hair, especially human hair, with the benefits of suppleness, softness, and smoothness.
  • the aim of the present invention was to develop a hair cleansing composition, which is silicone-free and contains components, which have a conditioning effect for the hair. Moreover, said components should provide the hair with care.
  • foam should build up in a sufficient quantity and a creamy quality.
  • a hair cleansing composition comprising Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate provides hair with a conditioning effect illustrated by detangling and combing wet hair easily (Examples, Table 3).
  • the present invention provides a hair cleansing composition comprising:
  • At least one surfactant chosen from anionic, amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactants, and
  • composition of the present invention is intended for an application to human hair.
  • composition may optionally comprise the auxiliary components as listed in the part of“detailed description of the invention”, such as thickening agents, solvents, preservatives, anti-dandruff agents, perfumes, and/or pH adjusting agents.
  • auxiliary components such as thickening agents, solvents, preservatives, anti-dandruff agents, perfumes, and/or pH adjusting agents.
  • the composition according to the present invention is an aqueous preparation
  • water has to be present.
  • the at least one cationic conditioning polymer, and the at least one surfactant, chosen from anionic, amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactants the composition comprises a balance amount of water, so that all the components amount to 100 % by weight. It is preferred that water is contained in an amount of 68 to 98 % by weight, more preferably of 70 to 95 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention is free from silicone components.
  • silicone component, silicone compound and silicone are used synonymously.
  • the term“free from” is intended to mean a composition containing less than 0.1 % by weight, preferably less than 0.01 % by weight, more preferably 0.001 % by weight, most preferably 0 % by weight, of a respective compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention refers to use of the composition of the present invention for providing hair with suppleness, softness, and smoothness. Furthermore, the invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for providing hair which can be easily detangled and combed in a wet condition.
  • the cleansing composition of the present invention leads to improved gliding of wet hair, avoiding leaving hair in a dry and/or rough condition.
  • Still another aspect of the present invention is the method of cleansing and conditioning human hair, comprising a step of applying the composition containing Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, at least one cationic conditioning polymer, at least one surfactant, chosen from anionic, amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactants, and water to the hair, followed by a step of rinsing off the composition after its application within 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
  • composition according to the present invention produces positive effects, e.g., it cleanses hair thoroughly and at the same time provides a caring effect to hair, and does not leave the hair in a rough condition.
  • the composition contains Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate, which is characterized by the following formula:
  • Di-PPG-2 Myreth- lO Adipate may be classified as an emollient, a skin conditioning agent, and a nonionic surfactant. Contained in cleansing compositions the advantages of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate have been described of providing mild preparations. Therefore, it has been recommended to use Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate in preparations for babies, small children and people with sensitive skin. The use of Di-PPG-2 Myreth- lO Adipate in hair cleansing compositions to provide a conditioning effect has not been described before. Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate is used as a silicone replacement, showing a similar conditioning effect as silicone compounds.
  • Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate may be used in water-based and oil-based compositions.
  • Di-PPG-2 Myreth- lO Adipate may be purchased as Cromollient
  • Di-PPG-2 Myreth- lO Adipate is contained in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0 % by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition contains at least one cationic conditioning polymer.
  • Said cationic conditioning components are polymeric structures, which are of natural origin, namely animal or plant derived, or synthetic origin.
  • the polymers are composed of monomers, either identical ones, resulting in homopolymers, or different ones, resulting in co- or terpolymers.
  • the cationic groups of the cationic polymers are preferably derived from nitrogen atoms, which are more preferably present in form of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups.
  • the primary, secondary, and tertiary amine groups may be positively charged depending on the pH value.
  • Quaternary amine groups, also called ammonium groups, are permanently positively charged groups, independent of the pH value.
  • the cationic polymers of natural origin may be based on the guar molecule which is modified in such a way that cationic substituents are introduced or substituents are introduced which are cationic at specific pH values, specifically at those pH values of the hair conditioning compositions.
  • a preferred example of the modified guar molecules is Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, which may be purchased from the Rhodia Company.
  • Cationic polymers derived from cellulose may also be used in the present invention. Similar to the case of guar, the substituents introduced to cellulose allow the cellulose molecule to have cationic properties.
  • Preferred examples are Polyquaternium-lO, which may be purchased as JR 400, JR 30M, JR 125, or LR 30M, all of which are obtained from The Dow Chemical Company, and Polyquaternium-4, which may be purchased as CELQUAT® L-200 or CELQUAT® H-100 from Akzo Nobel, as Polyquat L420KC from KCI and as POLYQUTA 200L from Guangzhou Tinci Materials Technology.
  • Cationic polymers of synthetic origin are composed of monomers, of which at least one kind of monomer is a monomer with a cationic function.
  • a preferred cationic monomer is dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride. This monomer is present in the homopolymer Polyquaternium-6 and the copolymer Polyquaternium-7, both of which are preferred cationic polymers.
  • Polyquaternium- l 1 is a further preferred cationic polymer resulting from the reaction of diethyl sulfate and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethyl aminoethylmethacrylate.
  • Still another preferred cationic polymer is Polyquaternium 16, a copolymer of methyl vinylimidazolium chloride and vinylpyrrolidone.
  • the at least one cationic polymer is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.05 to 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition contains at least one surfactant.
  • Surfactants are surface-active agents, which may be characterized by their functional groups, being anionic, cationic, nonionic, and/or amphoteric.
  • Suitable surfactants according to the invention are anionic, nonionic, and/or amphoteric surfactants, with the proviso that Di-PPG-2 Myreth- 10 Adipate, PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, and PEG- 150 distearate are not included in the group of nonionic surfactants.
  • Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulphate, or sulfonate groups, which dissociate in aqueous solutions depending on the pH value.
  • acyl glutamates for example, sodium acyl glutamate, di-TEA-palmitoyl aspartate, and sodium caprylic/capric glutamate,
  • Acyl peptides for example, palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein, and sodium/potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
  • o Sarcosinates for example, myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
  • Taurates for example, sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
  • Carboxylic acids for example, lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate, and zinc undecylenate,
  • Ester carboxylic acids for example, calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate, and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate.
  • Ether carboxylic acids for example, sodium laureth-l3 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate.
  • Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as, for example, DEA oleth-lO phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate.
  • Alkyl aryl sulfonates for example, sodium cocomonoglyceride sulfate, sodium Cl 2- 14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, and magnesium PEG-3 cocamidosulfate,
  • o Sulfosuccinates for example, dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, and disodium undecylene amido-MEA sulfosuccinate and
  • Alkyl ether sulfate for example, sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIP A laureth sulfate, sodium myrethsulfate, and sodium Cl 2- 13 pareth sulfate,
  • Alkyl sulfates such as, sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
  • Amphoteric surfactants contain anionic as well as cationic groups and behave accordingly in aqueous solution like anionic or cationic surfactants, depending on the pH value. In strongly acidic media, they have a positive charge and in alkaline media, a negative charge. On the other hand, they are zwitterionic in the neutral pH range, illustrated by the following example:
  • Amphoteric surfactants which may advantageously be used according to the invention are:
  • Alkyl- /dialkyl ethylene diamine for example, sodium alkyl amphoacetate, (e.g. sodium cocoamphoacetate), disodium alkyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate (e.g. disodium cocoamphodiacetate), sodium acyl amphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate, and sodium acyl amphopropionate,
  • N-alkylamino acids for example, amino propyl alkyl glutamide, alkylamino propionic acid, sodium alkyl imido dipropionate, and lauroampho carboxyglycinate.
  • Betaine derivatives for example, Coco Betaine, Cocoamidopropyl Betaine,
  • Sultaine dervatives for example, Lauryl Hydroxy Sultaine.
  • Nonionic surfactants may be characterized by polyether chains. Nonionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.
  • Alkanol amides such as cocoamides MEA/DEA/MIPA
  • Amine oxides such as cocoamido propylamine oxide
  • Esters that are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerin, sorbitan, or other alcohols, ethoxylated/propoxylated esters, ethoxylated/propoxylated glycerin esters, ethoxylated/propoxylated triglyceride esters
  • Ethers for example, ethoxylated/propoxylated alcohols (e.g. laureth-X, X being 2 to 10, wherein X represents ethylene oxide residues), ethoxylated/propoxylated cholesterines, , ethoxylated/propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated/propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers, and alkyl polyglycosides, such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside, cocoglycoside,
  • anionic surfactants preferably at least one sulfuric acid ester, namely at least one alkyl ether sulfates and/or at least one alkyl sulfate is contained in the composition of the present invention. It is even more preferred, if the corresponding cation of the respective alkyl ether sulfate or alkyl sulfate is Na + . It is most preferred, if sodium lauryl ether sulfate and/or sodium lauryl sulfate is contained in the composition according to the present invention. However, there are embodiments of the present invention that do not contain any anionic surfactant.
  • the total amount of the one or more anionic surfactant(s) ranges from 1.0 to 20.0 % by weight, preferably 2.5 to 17.5% by weight, more preferably 3.0 to 15.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • amphoteric surfactants preferably at least one alkyl diamine is contained in the composition of the present invention. It is even more preferred, if sodium alkyl amphoacetate and/or disodium alkyl amphodiacetate is contained. It is most preferred, if sodium cocoamphoacetate is contained in the composition according to the present invention.
  • At least one betaine derivative is contained in the composition of the present invention. It is more preferred, if cocamidopropyl betaine is contained in the composition according to the present invention.
  • one or more amphoteric surfactant(s) is/are contained in a total amount of 0.3 to 9.0 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 7.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • nonionic surfactants preferably at least one alkanolamid is contained in the composition of the present invention. It is even more preferred, if Cocamide MEA is contained in the composition according to the present invention.
  • one or more nonionic surfactant(s) is/are contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.3 to 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • combinations of surfactants are contained in the composition of the present invention, combinations of nonionic surfactants with anionic and/or amphoteric surfactants. More preferably, Cocamide MEA and/or Cocamide DEA are combined with sodium lauryl ether sulfate and/or sodium lauryl sulfate and/or Cocamidopropyl betaine and/or sodium cocoamphoacetate.
  • the respective surfactants are contained in the amounts given for the individual groups of surfactants. However, it is still more preferred, if the total amount of all surfactants in the composition ranges from 2 to 25 % by weight, most preferred from 3 to 20 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention is preferably in form of a single phase composition.
  • One embodiment represents a gel, optionally a clear gel.
  • Other embodiments, which are in the scope of the present invention represent hair cleansing compositions in form of pearlizing shampoos containing pearlizing agents like for instance glycol distearate.
  • the composition according to the present invention contains components influencing the consistency of the composition.
  • these components will be called thickening agents. They function by enlarging the micelles of the surfactants or by swelling the aqueous phase.
  • the thickening agents may belong to chemically very different substances, for example electrolytes or ethers, ester or diesters with high ethoxylation, as well as polymeric thickening agents.
  • esters with a high degree of ethoxylation it is preferred to use esters with a high degree of ethoxylation.
  • a high degree of ethoxylation means a degree of ethoxylation comprising 100 to 300 ethylene oxide residues, preferably 120 to 200 ethylene oxide residues.
  • n reflects the number of ethylene oxide residues.
  • the sum of all“n” is about 150.
  • PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate may be purchased as CrothixTM Liquid from Croda.
  • the raw material CrothixTM Liquid is fluid
  • PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate is contained in said raw material in an amount of about 45 % by weight, together with water and PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glyceride.
  • Equally preferred is the use of molecules consisting of two fatty acids connected by a high number of linked ethylene oxide residues in the composition according to the present invention. It is most preferred, if PEG- 150 distearate is contained.
  • PEG- 150 distearate may be purchased as Dapracare P6000 DS HV from Italmatch Chemicals.
  • PEG- 120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate which may be purchased from Lubrizol as Glucamate DOE- 120.
  • one or more ester(s) with high degree of ethoxylation is/are contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.2 to 4.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate and selected thickening agents, especially PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate and/or PEG- 150 distearate in the compositions of the present invention leads to a combined conditioning effect for hair. Both groups of ingredients complete each other in performing a conditioning effect of the hair.
  • the cationic polymers are conditioning polymers.
  • the composition according to the present invention contains a set of conditioning components, namely, Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, at least one selected thickening agent, especially PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate and/or PEG- 150 distearate, and at least one cationic conditioning polymer having a combined conditioning effect. All these ingredients do not disturb each other, rather than performing together to result in a very satisfactory conditioning effect for hair.
  • Solvents may be necessary to dissolve ingredients in order to facilitate the incorporation of these ingredients in the final composition. If, for instance, the composition is water-based, lipophilic ingredients may be difficult to incorporate. Solvents help to incorporate these ingredients.
  • oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, preferably castor oil;
  • esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanolic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
  • composition preferably contains PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil.
  • PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil is present in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.2 to 3.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hair cleansing composition of the present invention may contain anti-dandruff agents.
  • the anti-dandruff agents suitable for the present invention comprise any anti-dandruff agents known by one skilled in the art for treatment and prevention of dandruff formation.
  • antifungal components are known from prior art that can be used as anti-dandruff agents in cosmetic compositions.
  • Examples of anti-dandruff agents are climbazole, ketoconazole, ciclopirox, piroctone olamine, zinc pyrithione, and selen disulfide. Climbazole and/or piroctone olamine is/are preferred according to the present invention.
  • the amount of the one or more anti-dandruff agents ranges from 0.1 to 3.0 % by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cleansing composition of the present invention may further comprise one or more preservatives.
  • Suitable preservatives to be comprised in the composition of the present invention are for example phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyglycerin methylparaben, ethylparaben, benzyl alcohol, methylisothiazolinone, methyl chloroisothiazolinone and/or DMDM hydantoin.
  • the pH value of the compositions according to the present invention may be adjusted by all means suitable for cosmetic compositions. However, it is preferred, if suitable amounts of a- and b-hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, and/or glycolic acid, are contained to adjust the pH value to a value from 4.0 to 6.9.
  • a- and b-hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, and/or glycolic acid
  • inventive composition is filled and kept in a jar, a bottle, or a squeeze bottle.
  • composition of the present invention may be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a hair conditioning composition.
  • the process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques. However, it is recommended to use a cold process for preparation:
  • surfactant chosen from anionic, amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactants, and Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, stir;
  • compositions e.g., thickening agent(s), perfume(s), solvent(s), pH adjusting agent(s), preservative(s), anti-dandruff agent(s) etc.
  • thickening agent(s) e.g., perfume(s), solvent(s), pH adjusting agent(s), preservative(s), anti-dandruff agent(s) etc.
  • an IKA RW20 digital or IKA Eurostar stir equipment and a stirrer e.g. a paddle stirrer is used.
  • compositions of the present invention are improved in relation to compositions, which are already in the market.
  • panel tests were conducted. The test is carried out by the following procedure:
  • the amount of foam and the bubble size of the foam was evaluated upon use of the composition on wet hair, while washing.
  • the panelists decide in each test whether the amount of foam, which builds up upon washing, is high, average or less.
  • the bubble size the distribution of the big, medium and small bubbles was evaluated in percent of the total bubbles, which appeared upon washing the hair.
  • the panelists had the choice between the following statements: The hair feels rough, the hair feels squeaky, the hair feels smooth, the hair feels soft, the hair feels supple, the hair feels waxy and the hair feels coated.
  • the evaluation was based on a score of 10 points, “0 point” corresponds to“bad”, and“10 points” corresponds to“very good”.
  • PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate may be added as a mixture of PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides and water, which may be purchased from the company Croda as Crothix Liquid.
  • Source Panel test, the test was carried out using hair tresses of Caucasian bleached hair.
  • the tresses treated with the inventive preparation were evaluated better. This is consistent with the properties of hair, being supple, soft, and smooth for hair being treated with the inventive composition. In contrast, the properties rough and squeaky were attributed to hair treated with the comparative composition.
  • the inventive composition provides a conditioning effect resulting in hair that is supple, soft, and smooth.

Abstract

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field, and relates to a hair conditioning composition comprising Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, at least one cationic conditioning polymer,at least one surfactant and water. The composition according to the present invention cleanses hair thoroughly and at the same time provides a conditioning and caring effect to the hair.

Description

A hair cleansing composition
Technical Field
The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a hair cleansing composition comprising Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, at least one cationic conditioning polymer, at least one surfactant and water.
Background Art
A beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people. Therefore, an essential part of the daily personal care of humans is focus on the hair of the head. Cleansing and shampoo products are commonly used to remove excess of soil or sebum from the hair. However, these products often leave the hair in a dry and rough condition. To address this issue many cleansing and shampoo products comprise components providing care to the hair and/or contain conditioning agents to provide a conditioning effect.
The purpose of the conditioning agents of the above products is not only to reduce the dryness and roughness of the hair. Moreover, the richness and slipperiness, as well as the gliding and combability of the hair are improved by the conditioning agents. Typically used conditioning agents are silicone containing compounds. However, these are well known for the fact that silicone residues can build up on the hair. As a result these silicone residues weigh down the hair, which reduces the hair volume. Therefore, it remains desirable to provide shampoo compositions free of silicone compounds. Such compositions are known in the state of the art, but compositions avoiding the incorporation of silicone compounds have drawbacks. After the application of such compounds the hair is described to be rough, dry, difficult to detangle and difficult to comb in the wet condition. In consequence compounds were included in shampoo compositions with the aim to replace the silicone components. The use of these silicone replacements has also been disclosed in prior art.
EP 2138155 A2 discloses silicone free hair conditioning compositions, which include PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate to reduce the weighing down of hair while providing a conditioning effect. EP 2138155 A2 does not disclose the use of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate.
EiS 2012/0014900 A1 describes compounds, which may be used to replace silicone compounds in hair compositions. Said components are near-terminal branched, exemplified by 14-methylhexadecyl stearate, 16-methyloctadecyl palmitate, and 12-methyltetradecylpalmitate. There is no disclosure of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate.
WO 2012/080224 A2 discloses non-silicone shampoo compositions comprising sclerogums, which are neutral polysaccharides. The use of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate is not disclosed.
WO 2013/074655 A1 describes the use of natural polymeric and non-polymeric esters as a silicone replacement. Such polymeric ester are produced by an esterification of one first dicarboxylic acid, one first monofunctional alcohol or monofunctional carboxylic acid and glycerin or derivatives thereof; the non-polymeric ester is produced by an esterification of one second dicarboxylic acid and one second mono functional alcohol. There is no disclosure of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate.
WO 2013/122861 A1 describes that traditional conditioning agents do not provide long-lasting benefits to keratin fibers upon washing with cleansing products like shampoos. The drawbacks are overcome by the incorporation of a hydrophobically modified cationic polymer, namely a hydrophobically modified poly(acrylamido-N-propyltrimethylammonium chloride) (polyAPTAC). The use of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate is not disclosed.
WO 2015/136568 Al discloses silicone-free products for hair, amongst others also hair shampoos, containing an oil or mixture of oils having a selected surface tension and an oil thickener; wherein the total composition has a viscosity of about 5,000cps or higher. There is no disclosure of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate.
WO 2016/023694 Al describes shampoo compositions, which are silicone-free. Said compositions contain an anionic surfactant in form of an alkyl sulfate surfactant, or ethoxylated alkyl sulfate, a fatty acyl isethionate, and a cationic polymer, said cationic polymer comprising cationic galactomannan and cationic cellulose. The use of Di-PPG-2 Myreth- lO Adipate is not disclosed.
A replacement of silicone in hair cleansing compositions should provide hair, especially human hair, with the benefits of suppleness, softness, and smoothness. The aim of the present invention was to develop a hair cleansing composition, which is silicone-free and contains components, which have a conditioning effect for the hair. Moreover, said components should provide the hair with care.
Still another need for cleansing compositions is the formation of foam. The foam should build up in a sufficient quantity and a creamy quality.
Summary of the Invention It has surprisingly been found out that a hair cleansing composition comprising Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate provides hair with a conditioning effect illustrated by detangling and combing wet hair easily (Examples, Table 3).
In a first aspect, the present invention provides a hair cleansing composition comprising:
- Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate,
- at least one cationic conditioning polymer,
- at least one surfactant, chosen from anionic, amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactants, and
- water.
The composition of the present invention is intended for an application to human hair.
Furthermore, the composition may optionally comprise the auxiliary components as listed in the part of“detailed description of the invention”, such as thickening agents, solvents, preservatives, anti-dandruff agents, perfumes, and/or pH adjusting agents.
As the composition according to the present invention is an aqueous preparation, water has to be present. In addition to Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate, the at least one cationic conditioning polymer, and the at least one surfactant, chosen from anionic, amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactants, the composition comprises a balance amount of water, so that all the components amount to 100 % by weight. It is preferred that water is contained in an amount of 68 to 98 % by weight, more preferably of 70 to 95 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another aspect, the composition according to the present invention is free from silicone components. The terms silicone component, silicone compound and silicone are used synonymously. The term“free from” is intended to mean a composition containing less than 0.1 % by weight, preferably less than 0.01 % by weight, more preferably 0.001 % by weight, most preferably 0 % by weight, of a respective compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In another aspect, the present invention refers to use of the composition of the present invention for providing hair with suppleness, softness, and smoothness. Furthermore, the invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for providing hair which can be easily detangled and combed in a wet condition.
The cleansing composition of the present invention leads to improved gliding of wet hair, avoiding leaving hair in a dry and/or rough condition.
Still another aspect of the present invention is the method of cleansing and conditioning human hair, comprising a step of applying the composition containing Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, at least one cationic conditioning polymer, at least one surfactant, chosen from anionic, amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactants, and water to the hair, followed by a step of rinsing off the composition after its application within 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
The composition according to the present invention produces positive effects, e.g., it cleanses hair thoroughly and at the same time provides a caring effect to hair, and does not leave the hair in a rough condition.
Detailed Description of the Invention According to the invention, the composition contains Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate, which is characterized by the following formula:
Figure imgf000007_0001
Di-PPG-2 Myreth- lO Adipate may be classified as an emollient, a skin conditioning agent, and a nonionic surfactant. Contained in cleansing compositions the advantages of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate have been described of providing mild preparations. Therefore, it has been recommended to use Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate in preparations for babies, small children and people with sensitive skin. The use of Di-PPG-2 Myreth- lO Adipate in hair cleansing compositions to provide a conditioning effect has not been described before. Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate is used as a silicone replacement, showing a similar conditioning effect as silicone compounds.
Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate may be used in water-based and oil-based compositions. Di-PPG-2 Myreth- lO Adipate may be purchased as Cromollient
SCE-LQ-(MH) from CRODA.
According to the present invention Di-PPG-2 Myreth- lO Adipate is contained in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0 % by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention, the composition contains at least one cationic conditioning polymer. Said cationic conditioning components are polymeric structures, which are of natural origin, namely animal or plant derived, or synthetic origin. The polymers are composed of monomers, either identical ones, resulting in homopolymers, or different ones, resulting in co- or terpolymers.
The cationic groups of the cationic polymers are preferably derived from nitrogen atoms, which are more preferably present in form of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups. The primary, secondary, and tertiary amine groups may be positively charged depending on the pH value. Quaternary amine groups, also called ammonium groups, are permanently positively charged groups, independent of the pH value.
The cationic polymers of natural origin may be based on the guar molecule which is modified in such a way that cationic substituents are introduced or substituents are introduced which are cationic at specific pH values, specifically at those pH values of the hair conditioning compositions. A preferred example of the modified guar molecules is Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, which may be purchased from the Rhodia Company.
Cationic polymers derived from cellulose may also be used in the present invention. Similar to the case of guar, the substituents introduced to cellulose allow the cellulose molecule to have cationic properties. Preferred examples are Polyquaternium-lO, which may be purchased as JR 400, JR 30M, JR 125, or LR 30M, all of which are obtained from The Dow Chemical Company, and Polyquaternium-4, which may be purchased as CELQUAT® L-200 or CELQUAT® H-100 from Akzo Nobel, as Polyquat L420KC from KCI and as POLYQUTA 200L from Guangzhou Tinci Materials Technology.
Cationic polymers of synthetic origin are composed of monomers, of which at least one kind of monomer is a monomer with a cationic function. A preferred cationic monomer is dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride. This monomer is present in the homopolymer Polyquaternium-6 and the copolymer Polyquaternium-7, both of which are preferred cationic polymers.
Polyquaternium- l 1 is a further preferred cationic polymer resulting from the reaction of diethyl sulfate and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethyl aminoethylmethacrylate.
Still another preferred cationic polymer is Polyquaternium 16, a copolymer of methyl vinylimidazolium chloride and vinylpyrrolidone.
According to the present invention the at least one cationic polymer is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.05 to 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention, the composition contains at least one surfactant. Surfactants are surface-active agents, which may be characterized by their functional groups, being anionic, cationic, nonionic, and/or amphoteric. Suitable surfactants according to the invention are anionic, nonionic, and/or amphoteric surfactants, with the proviso that Di-PPG-2 Myreth- 10 Adipate, PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, and PEG- 150 distearate are not included in the group of nonionic surfactants. Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulphate, or sulfonate groups, which dissociate in aqueous solutions depending on the pH value.
Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously according to the invention are
• Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as
o Acyl glutamates, for example, sodium acyl glutamate, di-TEA-palmitoyl aspartate, and sodium caprylic/capric glutamate,
o Acyl peptides, for example, palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein, and sodium/potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
o Sarcosinates, for example, myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
o Taurates, for example, sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
o Acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate
o Alaninates.
• Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as
o Carboxylic acids, for example, lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate, and zinc undecylenate,
o Ester carboxylic acids, for example, calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate, and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate.
o Ether carboxylic acids, for example, sodium laureth-l3 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate.
• Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as, for example, DEA oleth-lO phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate.
• Sulfonic acids and salts, such as
o Acyl isethionates, for example, sodium/ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
o Alkyl aryl sulfonates, o Alkyl sulfonates, for example, sodium cocomonoglyceride sulfate, sodium Cl 2- 14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, and magnesium PEG-3 cocamidosulfate,
o Sulfosuccinates, for example, dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, and disodium undecylene amido-MEA sulfosuccinate and
• Sulfuric acid esters, such as
o Alkyl ether sulfate, for example, sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIP A laureth sulfate, sodium myrethsulfate, and sodium Cl 2- 13 pareth sulfate,
o Alkyl sulfates, such as, sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
Amphoteric surfactants contain anionic as well as cationic groups and behave accordingly in aqueous solution like anionic or cationic surfactants, depending on the pH value. In strongly acidic media, they have a positive charge and in alkaline media, a negative charge. On the other hand, they are zwitterionic in the neutral pH range, illustrated by the following example:
RNH2+-CH2-CH2-COOH X (at pH=2) X = any anion, for example, CE
RNH2 +-CH2-CH2-COO (at pH=7)
RNH-CH2-CH2-COO B+ (at pH=12) B+ = any cation, for example
Na+.
Amphoteric surfactants, which may advantageously be used according to the invention are
• Alkyl- /dialkyl ethylene diamine, for example, sodium alkyl amphoacetate, (e.g. sodium cocoamphoacetate), disodium alkyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate (e.g. disodium cocoamphodiacetate), sodium acyl amphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate, and sodium acyl amphopropionate,
• N-alkylamino acids, for example, amino propyl alkyl glutamide, alkylamino propionic acid, sodium alkyl imido dipropionate, and lauroampho carboxyglycinate.
• Betaine derivatives, for example, Coco Betaine, Cocoamidopropyl Betaine,
• Sultaine dervatives, for example, Lauryl Hydroxy Sultaine.
Nonionic surfactants may be characterized by polyether chains. Nonionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.
Nonionic surfactants which can be used advantageously according to the invention are
• Alcohols,
• Alkanol amides, such as cocoamides MEA/DEA/MIPA,
• Amine oxides, such as cocoamido propylamine oxide,
• Esters that are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerin, sorbitan, or other alcohols, ethoxylated/propoxylated esters, ethoxylated/propoxylated glycerin esters, ethoxylated/propoxylated triglyceride esters
• Ethers, for example, ethoxylated/propoxylated alcohols (e.g. laureth-X, X being 2 to 10, wherein X represents ethylene oxide residues), ethoxylated/propoxylated cholesterines, , ethoxylated/propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated/propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers, and alkyl polyglycosides, such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside, cocoglycoside,
• Sucrose esters, ethers,
• Polyglycerine esters, diglycerine esters,
• Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids. Referring to anionic surfactants, preferably at least one sulfuric acid ester, namely at least one alkyl ether sulfates and/or at least one alkyl sulfate is contained in the composition of the present invention. It is even more preferred, if the corresponding cation of the respective alkyl ether sulfate or alkyl sulfate is Na+. It is most preferred, if sodium lauryl ether sulfate and/or sodium lauryl sulfate is contained in the composition according to the present invention. However, there are embodiments of the present invention that do not contain any anionic surfactant.
According to the present invention, if the composition contains one or more anionic surfactant(s), the total amount of the one or more anionic surfactant(s) ranges from 1.0 to 20.0 % by weight, preferably 2.5 to 17.5% by weight, more preferably 3.0 to 15.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Referring to amphoteric surfactants, preferably at least one alkyl diamine is contained in the composition of the present invention. It is even more preferred, if sodium alkyl amphoacetate and/or disodium alkyl amphodiacetate is contained. It is most preferred, if sodium cocoamphoacetate is contained in the composition according to the present invention.
Still preferably, at least one betaine derivative is contained in the composition of the present invention. It is more preferred, if cocamidopropyl betaine is contained in the composition according to the present invention.
According to the present invention one or more amphoteric surfactant(s) is/are contained in a total amount of 0.3 to 9.0 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 7.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Referring to nonionic surfactants, preferably at least one alkanolamid is contained in the composition of the present invention. It is even more preferred, if Cocamide MEA is contained in the composition according to the present invention.
According to the present invention one or more nonionic surfactant(s) is/are contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.3 to 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is still preferred, if combinations of surfactants are contained in the composition of the present invention, combinations of nonionic surfactants with anionic and/or amphoteric surfactants. More preferably, Cocamide MEA and/or Cocamide DEA are combined with sodium lauryl ether sulfate and/or sodium lauryl sulfate and/or Cocamidopropyl betaine and/or sodium cocoamphoacetate. The respective surfactants are contained in the amounts given for the individual groups of surfactants. However, it is still more preferred, if the total amount of all surfactants in the composition ranges from 2 to 25 % by weight, most preferred from 3 to 20 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition of the present invention is preferably in form of a single phase composition. One embodiment represents a gel, optionally a clear gel. Other embodiments, which are in the scope of the present invention, represent hair cleansing compositions in form of pearlizing shampoos containing pearlizing agents like for instance glycol distearate.
Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention contains components influencing the consistency of the composition. By the addition of these components the viscosity of the composition can be adjusted. These components will be called thickening agents. They function by enlarging the micelles of the surfactants or by swelling the aqueous phase. The thickening agents may belong to chemically very different substances, for example electrolytes or ethers, ester or diesters with high ethoxylation, as well as polymeric thickening agents. However, it is preferred to use esters with a high degree of ethoxylation. A high degree of ethoxylation means a degree of ethoxylation comprising 100 to 300 ethylene oxide residues, preferably 120 to 200 ethylene oxide residues.
It is more preferred, if highly ethoxylated esters of erythritol and fatty acids, such as stearic acid are contained.
It is most preferred, if PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, illustrated by the following formula, is contained in the composition according to the present invention,
Figure imgf000015_0001
wherein n reflects the number of ethylene oxide residues. The sum of all“n” is about 150.
PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate may be purchased as Crothix™ Liquid from Croda. The raw material Crothix™ Liquid is fluid, PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate is contained in said raw material in an amount of about 45 % by weight, together with water and PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glyceride. Equally preferred is the use of molecules consisting of two fatty acids connected by a high number of linked ethylene oxide residues in the composition according to the present invention. It is most preferred, if PEG- 150 distearate is contained. PEG- 150 distearate may be purchased as Dapracare P6000 DS HV from Italmatch Chemicals.
Equally preferred is the use of PEG- 120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, which may be purchased from Lubrizol as Glucamate DOE- 120.
According to the present invention one or more ester(s) with high degree of ethoxylation is/are contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.2 to 4.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The combination of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate and selected thickening agents, especially PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate and/or PEG- 150 distearate in the compositions of the present invention leads to a combined conditioning effect for hair. Both groups of ingredients complete each other in performing a conditioning effect of the hair.
Furthermore, the cationic polymers are conditioning polymers. The composition according to the present invention contains a set of conditioning components, namely, Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, at least one selected thickening agent, especially PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate and/or PEG- 150 distearate, and at least one cationic conditioning polymer having a combined conditioning effect. All these ingredients do not disturb each other, rather than performing together to result in a very satisfactory conditioning effect for hair.
Solvents may be necessary to dissolve ingredients in order to facilitate the incorporation of these ingredients in the final composition. If, for instance, the composition is water-based, lipophilic ingredients may be difficult to incorporate. Solvents help to incorporate these ingredients.
According to the invention the following solvents may be contained:
- oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, preferably castor oil;
- ethoxylated triglycerides which may be hydrogenated, such as PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil;
- fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic lipids, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanolic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
- alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether or ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether or propylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether or diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and analogous products.
Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents may be used.
According to the invention the composition preferably contains PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil.
Advantageously, PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil is present in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.2 to 3.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The hair cleansing composition of the present invention may contain anti-dandruff agents. The anti-dandruff agents suitable for the present invention comprise any anti-dandruff agents known by one skilled in the art for treatment and prevention of dandruff formation. In particular, a considerable number of antifungal components are known from prior art that can be used as anti-dandruff agents in cosmetic compositions. Examples of anti-dandruff agents are climbazole, ketoconazole, ciclopirox, piroctone olamine, zinc pyrithione, and selen disulfide. Climbazole and/or piroctone olamine is/are preferred according to the present invention.
If one or more anti-dandruff agents is/are contained in the composition of the present invention, the amount of the one or more anti-dandruff agents ranges from 0.1 to 3.0 % by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cleansing composition of the present invention may further comprise one or more preservatives. Suitable preservatives to be comprised in the composition of the present invention are for example phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyglycerin methylparaben, ethylparaben, benzyl alcohol, methylisothiazolinone, methyl chloroisothiazolinone and/or DMDM hydantoin.
The pH value of the compositions according to the present invention may be adjusted by all means suitable for cosmetic compositions. However, it is preferred, if suitable amounts of a- and b-hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, and/or glycolic acid, are contained to adjust the pH value to a value from 4.0 to 6.9.
It is further advantageous if the inventive composition is filled and kept in a jar, a bottle, or a squeeze bottle. Examples
The following examples should illustrate the compositions of the present invention, without, however, intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the compositions, and refer to the active content of each ingredients.
Preparation method
The composition of the present invention may be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a hair conditioning composition. The process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques. However, it is recommended to use a cold process for preparation:
- Dissolve the cationic conditioning polymer(s) in water, stir until the polymer(s) is/are dissolved;
- Add surfactant, chosen from anionic, amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactants, and Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, stir;
- Optionally add further ingredients, e.g., thickening agent(s), perfume(s), solvent(s), pH adjusting agent(s), preservative(s), anti-dandruff agent(s) etc.
For manufacturing a batch of one of the compositions mentioned in the present invention, an IKA RW20 digital or IKA Eurostar stir equipment and a stirrer, e.g. a paddle stirrer is used.
Test method
In order to show that the compositions of the present invention are improved in relation to compositions, which are already in the market, panel tests were conducted. The test is carried out by the following procedure:
Caucasian bleached hair tresses are used. The evaluation of the hair tresses were conducted by trained panelists:
Firstly, the amount of foam and the bubble size of the foam was evaluated upon use of the composition on wet hair, while washing. To evaluate the amount of foam, the panelists decide in each test whether the amount of foam, which builds up upon washing, is high, average or less. To evaluate the bubble size the distribution of the big, medium and small bubbles was evaluated in percent of the total bubbles, which appeared upon washing the hair.
After rinsing the shampoo off the hair with water, the detangling and the combability of the hair while combing were evaluated. Furthermore, trained panelists evaluated the structure of the wet hair tresses.
To evaluate other properties of the hair the panelists had the choice between the following statements: The hair feels rough, the hair feels squeaky, the hair feels smooth, the hair feels soft, the hair feels supple, the hair feels waxy and the hair feels coated.
The evaluation was based on a score of 10 points, “0 point” corresponds to“bad”, and“10 points” corresponds to“very good”.
Examples: Table 1
O
Figure imgf000021_0001
The amounts given refer to active content. * PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate may be added as a mixture of PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides and water, which may be purchased from the company Croda as Crothix Liquid.
Table 2
Figure imgf000022_0001
Table 3
Figure imgf000023_0001
Source: Panel test, the test was carried out using hair tresses of Caucasian bleached hair.
From the results illustrated in Table 3, comparing a composition without Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate and a thickening agent (comparative example, Table 1) to a composition containing said components (Ex. l, Table 1), it becomes obvious that the preparation according to the invention was evaluated better in many aspects. The gliding of the hair is improved during rinsing off and after rinsing, referring to immediate gliding, gliding after 30 seconds and ability of gliding after rinsing. Furthermore, the hair treated with the composition according to the invention (Ex. 1) is easier to detangle and to comb than the hair treated with the comparative composition. Similar results are obtained, when the hair structure of wet hair tresses was evaluated. The tresses treated with the inventive preparation were evaluated better. This is consistent with the properties of hair, being supple, soft, and smooth for hair being treated with the inventive composition. In contrast, the properties rough and squeaky were attributed to hair treated with the comparative composition.
Summing up, the inventive composition provides a conditioning effect resulting in hair that is supple, soft, and smooth.

Claims

Claims
1. A hair cleansing composition comprising
Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate,
at least one cationic conditioning polymer,
at least one surfactant, chosen from anionic, amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactants, and
water.
2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the composition further comprises at least one of the auxiliary components, chosen from thickening agents, solvents, preservatives, anti-dandruff agents, perfumes and pH adjusting agents.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2 characterized in that the composition comprises a balance amount of water, so that all the components amount to 100% by weight.
4. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 3 characterized in that the composition is free from silicone components.
5. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 4 characterized in that Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate is contained a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0 % by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that the at least one cationic polymer is of natural origin, preferably based on a guar molecule or a cellulose molecule.
7. Composition according to claim 6 characterized in that the at least one cationic polymer is Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, and/or Polyquaternium-lO and/or Polyquaternium-4.
8. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that the at least one cationic polymer is of synthetic origin.
9. Composition according to claim 8 characterized in that the at least one cationic polymer of synthetic origin comprises dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride as a cationic monomer.
10. Composition according to claim 9 characterized in that the at least one cationic polymer of synthetic origin is Polyquaternium-6 and/or Polyquaternium-7.
11. Composition according to claim 8 characterized in that the at least one cationic polymer of synthetic origin is Polyquaternium- 11 and/or Polyquaternium- 16.
12. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 11 characterized in that a mixture of cationic polymers is contained, the mixture consisting of two or more cationic polymers, wherein the cationic polymers are chosen from Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium- 10, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium- 11 , and
Polyquaternium- 16.
13. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 12 characterized in that the at least one cationic polymer is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.05 to 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 13 characterized in that the at least one anionic surfactant is contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 20.0 % by weight, preferably 2.5 to 17.5 % by weight, more preferably 3.0 to 15.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Composition according to claim 14 characterized in that the at least one anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl ether sulfates and/or alkyl sulfates, preferably sodium lauryl ether sulfate and/or sodium lauryl sulfate.
16. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 13 characterized in that the at least one amphoteric surfactant is contained in a total amount of 0.3 to 9.0 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 7.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. Composition according to claim 16 characterized in that the at least one amphoteric surfactant is chosen from alkyl diamines and/or betaine derivatives.
18. Composition according to claim 17 characterized in that the at least one alkyl diamine is chosen from disodium coco amphodiacetate and sodium cocoamphoacetate, preferably sodium cocoamphoacetate.
19. Composition according to claim 17 characterized in that the betaine derivative is Cocamidopropyl betaine.
20. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 19 characterized in that the at least one nonionic surfactant is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.3 to 3.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
21. Composition according to claim 20 characterized in that the at least one nonionic surfactant is chosen from alkanolamids, preferably Cocamide MEA and/or Cocamide DEA.
22. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 21 characterized in that the composition contains a combination of nonionic surfactants with anionic and/or amphoteric surfactants.
23. Composition according to claim 22 characterized in that Cocamide MEA and/or Cocamide DEA is/are combined with sodium lauryl ether sulfate and/or sodium lauryl sulfate and/or Cocamidopropyl betaine and/or sodium cocoamphoacetate.
24. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 23 characterized in that at least one thickening agent is contained.
25. Composition according to claim 24 characterized in that the at least one thickening agent is chosen from esters with a high degree of ethoxylation, wherein the high degree of ethoxylation means a degree of ethoxylation comprising 100 to 300 ethylene oxide residues, preferably 120 to 200 ethylene oxide residues.
26. Composition according to claim 25 characterized in that the at least one thickening agent is PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate.
27. Composition according to claim 26 characterized in that PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate is contained in form of a mixture of PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glyceride and water.
28. Composition according to claim 25 characterized in that the at least one thickening agent is PEG- 150 distearate.
29. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 28 characterized in that the at least one thickening agent is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.2 to 4.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
30. Use of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate and at least one selected thickening agents, in particular PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PEG- 150 distearate and/or PEG- 120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, for providing the hair with suppleness, softness, and smoothness.
31. Use according to claim 30 characterized in that Di-PPG-2 Myreth-lO Adipate, at least one selected thickening agents, in particular PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate and/or PEG- 150 distearate, and at least one cationic polymer provides the hair with suppleness, softness, and smoothness.
32. Use according to claim 31 characterized in that the at least cationic polymer is chosen from Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-11, and Polyquaternium-16.
33. Use of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate and at least one selected thickening agents, in particular PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate and/or PEG- 150 distearate, for easily detangling and combing wet hair.
34. Use according to claim 33 characterized in that Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, at least one selected thickening agents, in particular PEG- 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate and/or PEG- 150 distearate, and at least one cationic polymer are used for providing hair that is easy to detangle and to comb in a wet condition.
35. Use according to claim 34 characterized in that the at least cationic polymer is chosen from Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-lO, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-l 1, and Polyquaternium-l6.
36. A method of cleansing and conditioning human hair, comprising a step of applying the composition according to any of claims 1-29, followed by a step of rinsing off the composition after its application within 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
PCT/EP2018/081685 2017-12-13 2018-11-19 A hair cleansing composition WO2019115156A1 (en)

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