WO2019102803A1

WO2019102803A1 - Waist manufacturing method

Info

Publication number: WO2019102803A1
Application number: PCT/JP2018/040411
Authority: WO
Inventors: 康人原
Original assignee: 株式会社オールユアーズ
Priority date: 2017-11-27
Filing date: 2018-10-30
Publication date: 2019-05-31
Also published as: JP2021028421A

Abstract

A waist manufacturing method for manufacturing an annular waist 20 of lower wear 1, said method comprising: a step S102 for preparing a rectangular cutting fabric 100 having a degree of stretch in the short direction thereof that is greater than the degree of stretch in the long direction thereof, and having a short-direction length that is shorter than the circumferential length of the waist 20; a step S104 for acquiring, from the cutting fabric 100, a strip-like part 131 and a strip-like part 132 by cutting the cutting fabric 100 into strips along the short direction thereof; and steps S106, S108 for sewing together the long-direction end of the acquired strip-like part 131 and the long-direction end of the acquired strip-like part 132 to form the waist 20.

Description

Manufacturing method of waist

The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a waist portion for manufacturing a waist portion of a lower garment.

In recent years, jeans that are stretchable and have good comfort have been proposed. As a method of manufacturing such jeans, a method of manufacturing by cutting and sewing a portion to be each part of jeans from a fabric having a large expansion ratio in the short direction is disclosed in Patent Document 1 below. .

JP 2007-314898 A

By the way, in the material for cutting, the ruler of a transverse direction is usually decided. For this reason, when the size of the jeans is relatively large compared to the scale of the fabric (specifically, when the circumferential length of the waist portion is larger than the length in the short direction of the fabric), the longitudinal direction of the fabric is It is cut along to produce the waist. However, since the stretch ratio in the longitudinal direction of the fabric is small, the comfort of the manufactured waist portion becomes bad.

Therefore, the present invention has been made in view of these points, and it is an object of the present invention to provide a waist portion having a large circumferential length and a high degree of stretchability.

In one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method of producing a waist portion for producing an annular waist portion of a lower garment, wherein the degree of expansion and contraction in the short direction is greater than the degree of expansion and contraction in the longitudinal direction. A preparing step of preparing a rectangular cloth having a length smaller than the circumferential length of the waist portion, and cutting the cloth into a strip along the short direction to form a first belt-like part and a second belt-like part A cutting step for obtaining each from the fabric, and a forming step for sewing together the obtained longitudinal end of the first band-shaped part and the longitudinal end of the second band-shaped part to form the waist portion And providing a method of manufacturing a waist portion.

Further, in the cutting step, the first band-shaped part and the second band-shaped part from the cloth so that the first band-shaped part and the second band-shaped part include a cloth end on an end side of the cloth in the short direction. It is also possible to obtain parts.

Furthermore, in the forming step, the first band-shaped part and the second band-shaped part are sewn together so that the cloth end of the first band-shaped part and the cloth end of the second band-shaped part are exposed. It is also good.

Further, in the forming step, after the first band-shaped part and the second band-shaped part are sewn together, the waist portion may be formed by folding in half in the short direction.

Further, in the cutting step, the cloth may be cut into a band so that a sewn portion of the first band-shaped part and the second band-shaped part is positioned at a central portion of the waist.

In the forming step, a loop for a belt may be attached to the sewn portion of the first band-shaped part and the second band-shaped part.

Further, in the cutting step, the first band-shaped part and the second band-shaped part may be obtained by cutting an end side of the fabric in the longitudinal direction into a band along the short direction.

Further, in the cutting step, the cutting positions of the first band-shaped part and the second band-shaped part in the cloth may be different depending on the size of the lower garment.

According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a waist portion having a large circumference and a high degree of elasticity.

It is a schematic diagram which shows the structure at the time of seeing the front side of the lower garment 1. FIG. It is a schematic diagram which shows the structure at the time of seeing the back side of the lower garment 1. FIG. It is the schematic diagram which developed the waist part 20. FIG. It is a schematic diagram which shows an example of the cutting pattern in the raw material 100 for a cutting | judgement. It is a schematic diagram which shows the strip | belt-

shaped parts

131 and 132 obtained by cutting | judgement of the cutting part 121,122. It is a figure for demonstrating the flow which forms the waist part 20 from the strip | belt-

shaped parts

131 and 132. FIG. It is a schematic diagram which shows the modification of the cutting pattern of the cloth 100 for a cutting | judgement. 5 is a flowchart for explaining an example of a manufacturing process of the waist portion 20.

<Structure of lower garment>
The configuration of the lower garment including the waist portion according to one embodiment of the present invention will be described with reference to FIGS. 1 to 3.

FIG. 1: is a schematic diagram which shows the structure when the front side of the lower garment 1 is seen. FIG. 2: is a schematic diagram which shows the structure when the back side of the lower garment 1 is seen. The lower garment 1 is a garment that covers the lower body of the wearer, and here is jeans. The lower garment 1 is stretchable and has excellent comfort. As shown in FIG. 1, lower garment 1 includes a body 10 and a waist 20.

The body 10 is a main body that covers the lower body of the wearer. The body 10 is formed by sewing a plurality of parts cut from the cutting cloth. The body 10 is extendable and contractible in the arrow direction shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. Although the details will be described later, by adjusting the cutting direction from the cloth for cutting, good stretchability of the body 10 is realized.

The waist portion 20 is connected to the upper portion of the body 10 and is an annular portion covering the waist of the wearer. The waist portion 20 is also formed by sewing a plurality of parts cut from the cutting cloth in the same manner as the body portion 10. The waist portion 20 of this embodiment is suitable, for example, for a cutting material having a limited length in the short direction, and the circumferential length of the waist portion 20 is larger than the length in the short direction of the cutting material .

FIG. 3 is a schematic view in which the waist portion 20 is developed. In the present embodiment, the waist portion 20 is also formed to be stretchable in the same manner as the body portion 10, and is specifically stretchable in the arrow direction of FIG. The expansion and contraction direction of the waist portion 20 is the same as the expansion and contraction direction of the body portion 10. As a result, the lower garment 1 has excellent comfort even when the wearer sits down, for example.

At the central portion of the waist portion 20, as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, a pattern portion 22 is formed. For example, the pattern portion 22 is formed at a position facing the back (spine) of the wearer when the wearer wears the lower garment 1. The pattern portion 22 is formed to be exposed to both the inside and the outside of the waist portion 20, and is visible when the wearer wears the lower garment 1 and when wearing it. it can. In addition, the pattern part 22 is formed using the ear | edge part of the cloth for cuttings.

As shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, the waist portion 20 is provided with a plurality of loops 24 through which the belt passes at predetermined intervals. One loop 24 of the plurality of loops 24 is attached to the pattern 22 as shown in FIG. The loop 24 is also manufactured using parts cut from the cutting cloth. In addition, the loop 24 is also stretchable in the same direction as the waist portion 20.

In the above, although the lower garment 1 is described as being jeans, the present invention is not limited to this, and may have another form as long as it has a waist portion.

<About the cloth for cutting>
The material for cutting the lower garment 1 will be described with reference to FIGS. 4 to 7.

FIG. 4 is a schematic view showing an example of a cutting pattern in the cutting cloth 100. As shown in FIG. The lower garment 1 is manufactured by sewing a plurality of parts cut from the cutting cloth 100. The cutting material 100 is rectangular as shown in FIG. The length in the short direction of the cutting cloth 100 is a predetermined size (for example, 80 cm) for the reason of manufacturing the cutting cloth 100. Moreover, the both ends of the short direction of the cloth 100 for cutting | judgement are what is called an ear part, for example, the pattern (not shown) is attached | subjected.

The cutting fabric 100 is manufactured by weaving warps and wefts orthogonal to each other. The warp is along the longitudinal direction of the cutting cloth 100, and the weft is along the short direction of the cutting cloth 100. In the cutting cloth 100, since the weft is made of a material having a higher expansion ratio than the warp, the cutting cloth 100 has the property of being easily expanded and contracted in the short direction. For example, the degree of expansion and contraction in the short direction of the cutting cloth 100 is about 5 times the degree of expansion and contraction in the longitudinal direction.

As shown in FIG. 4, the cutting material 100 includes a plurality of cutting portions for manufacturing the body 10 and the waist 20 of the lower garment 1. For example, the body 10 is manufactured by sewing parts obtained by cutting the plurality of cut portions 110. Moreover, the waist part 20 is manufactured by sewing the strip | belt-shaped part acquired by cutting | judgement of the

cut parts

121 and 122. As shown in FIG.

The

cut portions

121 and 122 are cut in a band shape along the short direction of the cutting cloth 100 so that the waist portion 20 manufactured by sewing the

cut portions

121 and 122 is also stretchable. The

cut portions

121 and 122 are adjacent to each other in the longitudinal direction of the cutting cloth 100. The

cut portions

121 and 122 are located at longitudinal ends of the cutting cloth 100 so as to be easily cut. Further, one end portion in the longitudinal direction of the band-

like cut portions

121 and 122 includes an ear portion 105 at one end side in the short direction of the cutting material 100.

FIG. 5 is a schematic view showing strip-

like parts

131 and 132 obtained by cutting the

cut portions

121 and 122. As shown in FIG. The band-shaped

parts

131 and 132 have the same shape. One end side in the longitudinal direction of the belt-

like parts

131 and 132 includes

pattern parts

131 a and 132 a which are the ear parts 105 of the cutting material 100. And the waist part 20 shown in FIG. 3 is formed by sewing the one end side of the longitudinal direction of the two strip | belt-shaped

parts

131 and 132. As shown in FIG.

FIG. 6 is a diagram for explaining the flow of forming the waist portion 20 from the belt-

like parts

131 and 132. As shown in FIG.
First, as shown in FIG. 6A, the belt-

like parts

131 and 132 are opposed to each other so that the

pattern parts

131a and 132a are close to each other. Then, by folding the band-shaped

parts

131 and 132 at the

positions

131b and 132b as the fold lines shown in FIG. 6A, the

pattern portions

131a and 132a are bent as shown in FIG. 6B. , 132, which is a position slightly away from the

folds

131b and 132b, which is the end of 132.

Next, the

folds

131b and 132b of the

strip parts

131 and 132 are sewn together to form a highly rigid stitching portion 140 in which the

strip parts

131 and 132 are sewn together as shown in FIG. 6C. The

pattern portions

131 a and 132 a are located on both sides of the stitching portion 140.

Next, the belt-

like parts

131 and 132 in the sewn state are folded in half at the position of the broken line shown in FIG. 6D, whereby the waist portion 20 shown in FIG. 3 is formed. Thereafter, the loop 24 is attached to the highly rigid stitching portion 140.

As described above, by forming the waist portion 20 by sewing one end side in the longitudinal direction of the two belt-

like parts

131 and 132, it is possible to form the waist portion 20 having a large circumferential length and being rich in elasticity. In particular, when the circumferential length of the waist portion 20 is larger than the length in the short direction of the cutting cloth 100, the waist portion 20 having a large circumferential length can be formed by using the two belt-

like parts

131 and 132.
Moreover, the designability of the waist part 20 will become excellent by the

pattern parts

131a and 132a being located around the stitching part of the two strip | belt-shaped

parts

131 and 132. FIG. The

pattern portions

131a and 132a are made of the ear portions 105 of the cutting cloth 100, and are different in color from those other than the

pattern portions

131a and 132a. In addition, the first color attached to the area near the stitching part 140 in the

pattern parts

131a and 132a and the second color applied to the area away from the stitching part 140 (the second color is darker than the first color) Is different. In FIG. 6B, the

pattern portions

131a and 132a after forming the waist portion 20 may or may not be sewn to the belt-

like parts

131 and 132. Even when the

pattern parts

131a and 132a are not sewn to the band-

like parts

131 and 132, the same parts are subjected to heat treatment by an iron to suppress peeling of the

pattern parts

131a and 132a from the band-

like parts

131 and 132, and the designability You can keep

The position of the cutting portion in the cutting pattern shown in FIG.
FIG. 7 is a schematic view showing a variation of the cutting pattern of the cutting cloth 100. As shown in FIG. The cutting pattern of FIG. 7 is a pattern in the case where the size of the lower garment 1 is larger than that of the cutting pattern of FIG. 4. As can be seen by comparing FIG. 4 and FIG. 7, the position of the cut portion is different. For example, in FIGS. 4 and 7, the positions of the

cut portions

121 and 122 are different.

In the above, although the

cut portions

121 and 122 are adjacent to each other, the present invention is not limited to this. For example, the cutting

portions

121 and 122 may be separated depending on the arrangement of the cutting portions in the cutting cloth 100.
In the above description, the

cut portions

121 and 122 are located at the longitudinal end of the cutting cloth 100, but the present invention is not limited to this. For example, the cutting

portions

121 and 122 may be located on the central side in the longitudinal direction of the cutting cloth 100.

<Production method of the waist part>
A manufacturing method for manufacturing the waist portion 20 having excellent stretchability and a large circumferential length will be described with reference to FIG. In addition, manufacture of the waist part 20 is one step of manufacture of the lower garment 1, and the lower garment 1 is manufactured by sewing the manufactured waist part 20 and the body part 10.

FIG. 8 is a flowchart for explaining an example of the manufacturing process of the waist portion 20.
First, a cutting material 100 is prepared (step S102). The cutting cloth 100 to be prepared is, for example, a rectangular cloth shown in FIG. 4, and the degree of expansion and contraction in the short direction is larger than the degree of expansion and contraction in the longitudinal direction. In addition, the length in the short direction of the cutting cloth 100 is smaller than the circumferential length of the waist portion 20 to be manufactured.

Next, the cut portion corresponding to the waist portion 20 is cut from the cutting cloth 100 (step S104). Specifically, the band-shaped

parts

131 and 132 are obtained by cutting the

cut portions

121 and 122 into bands along the short direction of the cutting cloth 100.

At this time, the

cut portions

121 and 122 are cut so as to include the ear portion 105 (the cloth end portion) on the end side in the short direction of the cutting cloth 100. As a result, in the belt-

like parts

131 and 132, the pattern portion attached to the ear 105 is present. Moreover, in order to improve the efficiency of the cutting operation, the

cut portions

121 and 122 located at the longitudinal end of the cutting cloth 100 are cut. In addition, according to the size of lower garment 1, the cutting position of cutting

parts

121 and 122 in cloth 100 for cutting may differ.

Further, the

cut portions

121 and 122 are cut such that the sewn portion 140 of the belt-like parts 131 and the belt-like parts 132 is located at the center of the waist portion 20. Specifically, the

cut portions

121 and 122 are set so that the lengths in the longitudinal direction of the

cut portions

121 and 122 are substantially the same (the length of one cut portion is slightly longer in order to form a seam). Cut it.

Next, the two strip-shaped

parts

131 and 132 are sewn together (step S106). Specifically, the end in the longitudinal direction of the strip-like part 131 (the side with the pattern portion 131a) and the end in the longitudinal direction of the strip-like part 132 (the side with the pattern portion 132a) are sewn together. At this time, the belt-

like parts

131 and 132 are sewn together so that the pattern portion 131a of the belt-like part 131 and the pattern part 132a of the belt-like part 132 are exposed. Specifically, the belt-

like parts

131 and 132 are sewn together so that the

pattern parts

131a and 132a are positioned on both sides of the sewing part 140. Then, after the

strip parts

131 and 132 are sewn together, the waist part 20 is formed by folding in half in the short direction.

Next, a loop for a belt is attached (step S108). Specifically, the belt loop 24 is attached to the seamed portion of the belt-like part 131 and the belt-like part 132. As a result, the loop 24 is attached to the highly rigid stitching portion, and the loop 24 can be held firmly.

In the above, the waist portion 20 is formed by sewing together the end portions of the two band-

like parts

131 and 132 obtained by cutting the banding material 100 for cutting into a band shape along the short direction. It is not limited to. For example, the number of band-shaped parts forming the waist portion 20 may be three or more.

Moreover, although cut part 121,122 presupposed that the ear part 105 of the cloth 100 for a cutting | judgement is mentioned above, it is not limited to this. For example, the

cut portions

121 and 122 may not include the ear portion 105. That is, the band-shaped

parts

131 and 132 may not be taken from the end of the cutting cloth 100.

In the above description, the belt loop 24 is attached to the stitched portion 140 of the belt-

like parts

131 and 132, but the present invention is not limited to this. For example, the belt loop 24 may be attached to the belt-

like parts

131, 132 at portions other than the stitching portion 140.

<Effect of this embodiment>
According to the method of manufacturing the waist portion 20 of the lower garment 1 described above, the

cut portions

121 and 122 are cut into strips along the short direction with a large degree of expansion and contraction of the cutting cloth 100 to form the two

strip parts

131 and 132 To get Then, the end portions in the longitudinal direction of the strip-shaped

parts

131 and 132 are sewn together to form the waist portion 20.
Since the longitudinal direction of the strip-

like parts

131 and 132 is a short direction in which the degree of expansion and contraction of the cutting cloth 100 is large, the stretchability is high. For this reason, the waist portion 20 formed by sewing the end portions in the longitudinal direction of the belt-

like parts

131 and 132 is also highly stretchable in the longitudinal direction. In addition, by stitching two belt-

like parts

131 and 132, the size of the lower garment 1 is relatively large compared to the scale of the fabric (the circumferential length of the waist portion 20 is longer than the length in the short direction of the cutting fabric 100 Even in the case of large), it is possible to realize the waist portion 20 with high elasticity. And since the expansion-contraction direction of the waist part 20 is the same direction as the expansion-contraction direction of the body part 10, it becomes what was more excellent in the comfort as the lower garment 1 whole.

Further, by forming the pattern portion 22 so as to be exposed to the outside by using the ear portion of the cutting cloth 100 in the stitching portion of the two band-shaped

parts

131 and 132, the pattern portion 22 including the stitching portion 140 has an aesthetic appearance. It will be possessed. Thereby, the waist part 20 which sewed two strip-shaped

parts

131 and 132 becomes a thing with high designability. In addition, by forming the pattern portions 22 on both sides of the central portion of the waist portion 20, the pattern portions 22 become more noticeable.

As mentioned above, although the present invention was explained using an embodiment, the technical scope of the present invention is not limited to the range given in the above-mentioned embodiment, and various modification and change are possible within the range of the gist. is there. For example, a specific embodiment of device distribution and integration is not limited to the above embodiment, and all or a part thereof may be functionally or physically distributed and integrated in any unit. Can. In addition, new embodiments produced by any combination of a plurality of embodiments are also included in the embodiments of the present invention. The effects of the new embodiment generated by the combination combine the effects of the original embodiment.

Reference Signs List 1 garment 20 waist portion 22 pattern portion 24 loop 100 fabric for cutting 105

ear portion

121, 122 cutting

portion

131, 132 band-

like parts

131 a, 132 a

pattern portion

131 b, 132 b fold 140 stitching portion

Claims

A method of producing a waist portion for producing an annular waist portion of a lower garment, comprising:
Preparing a rectangular fabric having a degree of expansion in the short direction greater than that in the longitudinal direction and a length in the short direction smaller than the circumferential length of the waist portion;
A cutting step of acquiring a first band-shaped part and a second band-shaped part from the cloth by cutting the cloth into a band along the short direction;
Forming the waist portion by sewing together the obtained longitudinal end of the first strip part and the longitudinal end of the second strip part;
And a method of manufacturing a waist portion.
In the cutting step, the first band-like part and the second band-like part are formed from the fabric so that the first band-like part and the second band-like part include a cloth end on the end side in the short direction of the cloth. get,
The manufacturing method of the waist part of Claim 1.
In the forming step, the first band-shaped part and the second band-shaped part are sewn together such that the cloth end of the first band-shaped part and the cloth end of the second band-shaped part are exposed.
The manufacturing method of the waist part of Claim 2.
In the forming step, after the first band-shaped part and the second band-shaped part are sewn together, they are folded in half in the short direction to form the waist portion.
The manufacturing method of the waist part of any one of Claim 1 to 3.
In the cutting step, the material is cut into a band so that a sewn portion of the first band and the second band is positioned at a central portion of the waist.
The manufacturing method of the waist part of any one of Claim 1 to 4.
Attaching a belt loop to the stitched portion of the first band-shaped part and the second band-shaped part in the forming step;
The manufacturing method of the waist part of any one of Claims 1-5.
In the cutting step, the first band-shaped part and the second band-shaped part are obtained by cutting an end side of the fabric in the longitudinal direction into a band along the width direction.
The manufacturing method of the waist part of any one of Claim 1 to 6.
In the cutting step, the cutting positions of the first band-shaped part and the second band-shaped part in the fabric are different according to the size of the lower garment.
The manufacturing method of the waist part of any one of Claims 1-7.