WO2019096381A1 - Antiperspirant cosmetic composition containing diatomaceous earth - Google Patents

Antiperspirant cosmetic composition containing diatomaceous earth Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019096381A1
WO2019096381A1 PCT/EP2017/079400 EP2017079400W WO2019096381A1 WO 2019096381 A1 WO2019096381 A1 WO 2019096381A1 EP 2017079400 W EP2017079400 W EP 2017079400W WO 2019096381 A1 WO2019096381 A1 WO 2019096381A1
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Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
weight
use according
range
mineral
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PCT/EP2017/079400
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French (fr)
Inventor
Ana Karen ZAVALA RAYA
Cecile Ratschow
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
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Priority to PCT/EP2017/079400 priority Critical patent/WO2019096381A1/en
Publication of WO2019096381A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019096381A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic composition containing at least one antiperspirant active ingredient and diatomaceous earth.
  • the compositions according to invention allow for a reduction of the felt stickiness of the compositions after application.
  • Antiperspirant products are commonly applied to the axillary region of the human body to prevent and/or reduce the sweat production. Technically this effect is achieved by
  • antiperspirant active ingredients blocking the sweat glands.
  • those antiperspirant active ingredients are specific aluminum salts, which polymerize and thereby block the entrance of the sweat glands.
  • aluminum salts which are most commonly used as antiperspirant active ingredients, are water soluble such that normal sweat production usually removes the polymerized aluminum salts within 72 hours from the sweat glands.
  • the aluminum salts may be removed by washing the axillary region with water.
  • Standard commercial antiperspirant products are mostly formulated as aerosol, pump spray, roll-on preparation, cream or stick.
  • the popularity of these products varies depending on the region. For example, in Europe most markets are dominated by aerosol and roll-on preparations, whereby in North America customers prefer to use antiperspirant sticks.
  • the antiperspirant compositions on the market may suffer certain disadvantages when being applied to the human skin. For example for many customers it is desirable that the formulations do not feel sticky on the skin after application. Therefore, a number of approaches were disclosed of methods how to reduce the sticky feeling of antiperspirant compositions after application to the skin.
  • W02005105026 A1 discloses the use of a a-hydroxy carboxylic acid in water to reduce the stickiness recognized by the customer after application to the skin.
  • the examples disclose the use of mandelic acid.
  • a-hydroxy carboxylic acids such as mandelic acid may result in an unpleasant smell.
  • US20070190089 A1 discloses antiperspirant compositions containing a water soluble ester as detackifying agent.
  • ester are also known for an unpleasant smell.
  • the document W01997044009 A1 describes the use of esterified hydrophilic starches, such as starch sodium octenyl succinates, which allow for a reduction of the stickiness of cosmetic compositions. According to the description these compounds can also be contained in antiperspirant compositions.
  • the present invention is a cosmetic composition containing
  • Another subject of the present invention is the use of diatomaceous earth in a cosmetic composition containing at least one antiperspirant active ingredient to reduce the sticky feeling of the composition on the skin after application.
  • normal conditions refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.
  • free from means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.05% by weight. This ensures that entrainments or impurities with these substances are not included as “free from” according to the invention.
  • skin refers solely to human skin.
  • the cosmetic composition contains at least one antiperspirant active ingredient.
  • aluminum salts which may be selected from the following non-limiting list:
  • Aluminum salts such as aluminum chloride, AICI3, aluminum sulfate, AI 2 (S0 4 ) 3
  • Aluminum chlorides of the empirical formula [Al2(OH) m Cl n ], where m + n 6 Aluminum chlorohydrate [AI 2 (OH) 5 Cl] x H 2 0
  • Standard Al complexes Locron P (Clariant), Micro-Dry (Reheis), ACH-331 (Summit), Aloxicoll PF 40 (Giulini).
  • - Capitalized Al complexes Reach 501 (Reheis), AACH 324 (Summit), AACH 7171 (Summit), Aloxicoll P (Giulini), Aloxicoll SD100
  • Aluminum-zirconium salts are preferred antiperspirant active ingredients which can be included in the cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion of the present invention. These aluminum-zirconium salts may be selected from the following non-limiting list:
  • the at least one antiperspirant active ingredients is chosen from aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum
  • sesquichlorohydrate Most preferred is aluminum chlorohydrate.
  • the total quantity of the at least one antiperspirant active ingredient is in the range from 5% to 15% by weight, more preferably 7.5% to 12.5% by weight and most preferably 9% to 1 1 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition contains in addition to the at least one antiperspirant active ingredient diatomaceous earth.
  • the diatomaceous earth contained in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably characterized in that is has an oil absorption capability from 20 ml/100g mineral to 350 ml/100g mineral, more preferably from 100 ml/100g mineral to 300 ml/100g mineral and most preferably from 200 ml/100g mineral to 250 ml/100g mineral.
  • One suitable example of such a mineral having an oil absorption capability of 225 ml/1 OOg mineral is marketed under the trade name ImerCare 400D (S) by the company IMERYS.
  • the oil absorption capability of the diatomaceous earth is determined according to the ASTM D-1483 - 12(2016) Standard Test Method for Oil Absorption of Pigments by Gardner-Coleman Method.
  • the diatomaceous earth especially the diatomaceous earth having an oil absorption capability from 200 ml/1 OOg mineral to 250 ml/1 OOg mineral, is preferably contained in a total quantity of 0.1 % to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight and most preferably 0.75% to 1.25% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition contains, a) at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the group of aluminum
  • the cosmetic composition contains, a) at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the group of aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, and
  • diatomaceous earth b) diatomaceous earth; wherein the diatomaceous earth is characterized in that it has an oil absorption capability from 100 ml/100g mineral to 300 ml/100g mineral.
  • the cosmetic composition contains, a) at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the group of aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, and
  • diatomaceous earth b) diatomaceous earth; wherein the diatomaceous earth is characterized in that it has an oil absorption capability from 200 ml/100g mineral to 250 ml/100g mineral.
  • the cosmetic composition contains, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, a) 7.5% to 12.5% by weight of at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the group of aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, and b) 0.1 % to 5% by weight diatomaceous earth; wherein the diatomaceous earth is characterized in that it has an oil absorption capability from 20 ml/100g mineral to 350 ml/100g mineral.
  • the cosmetic composition contains, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, a) 5% to 15% by weight of at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the group of aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, and b) 0.5% to 2% by weight diatomaceous earth; wherein the diatomaceous earth is characterized in that it has an oil absorption capability from 100 ml/100g mineral to 300 ml/100g mineral.
  • the cosmetic composition contains, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, a) 5% to 15% by weight of at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the group of aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, and b) 0.75% to 1.25% by weight diatomaceous earth; wherein the diatomaceous earth is characterized in that it has an oil absorption capability from 200 ml/100g mineral to 250 ml/100g mineral.
  • the cosmetic composition contains, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, a) 7.5% to 12.5% by weight of at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the group of aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, and b) 0.1 % to 5% by weight diatomaceous earth; wherein the diatomaceous earth is characterized in that it has an oil absorption capability from 100 ml/100g mineral to 300 ml/100g mineral.
  • the cosmetic composition contains, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, a) 9% to 1 1% by weight of at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the group of aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, and b) 0.5% to 2% by weight diatomaceous earth; wherein the diatomaceous earth is characterized in that it has an oil absorption capability from 200 ml/100g mineral to 250 ml/100g mineral.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably therein characterized that it is an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • Water-in-oil emulsions are often employed as formulation basis for roll on applications as they allow for a quick release of the antiperspirant active ingredient, while ingredients providing an extra caring effect can be included in the inner oil-phase.
  • those formulations suffer often from a sticky feeling, which may be caused by the lipophilic ingredients contained in the oil phase. Therefore it was also surprisingly found that by the use of diatomaceous earth in an oil-in-water emulsion the stickiness of the composition after application to the skin was reduced.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably therein characterized that the total amount of the oil phase and lipid phase is in the range from 0.5% to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 2.5% to 4.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • emulsifiers are generally not included in the oil phase and lipid phase.
  • the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion
  • the emulsion is a macro-emulsion.
  • macro-emulsion is understood to be an emulsion therein characterized that the average diameter of the emulsified droplets exceeds 1 pm.
  • the "average diameter of the emulsified droplets" is preferably understood to be the volume-average droplet diameter D50, which can be determined by the conventional methods, for example by laser diffraction.
  • the volume-average droplet diameter D50 is the point in the particle size distribution at which 50 vol.% of the emulsified droplets have a smaller diameter and 50 vol.% of the emulsified droplets have a larger diameter.
  • composition is free from PPG alkyl ethers as these components may adversely affect the properties of the
  • the stability of the cosmetic composition can be increased by adding at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18.
  • preferred cosmetic compositions of the present invention are therein characterized that at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18 is contained.
  • the nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18 are preferably selected from linear saturated and unsaturated C12 to C24 primary alcohols that are etherified with 7 to 40 ethylene oxide units per molecule.
  • those nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18 are preferred that are selected from Laureth, Trideceth, Myristeth, Ceteth, Steareth, Araezeth, and Beheneth, having respectively 7 to 40 ethylene oxide units per molecule.
  • Nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18 that most preferred are selected from the group of Steareth-15, Steareth-20, Steareth-21 , Araezeth-20, Araezeth-21 , Beheneth-20,
  • the cosmetic composition contains at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18, preferably at least one of the above disclosed preferred and most preferred nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18, in a total quantity from 0.5% to 2% by weight, more preferably 1% to 1.4% by weight, and most preferably from 1.1% to 1.3% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions are further therein characterized that they contain at least one nonionic emulsifier with an HLB value in the range from 3 to 6 to increase the stability of the composition. In this manner, it is avoided that the compositions separates into different phases shortly after the preparation and the product experiences a prolonged shelf lifetime without changing its appearance.
  • Typical examples of preferred nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range from 3 to 6 are selected from linear saturated and unsaturated C12 to C30 primary alcohols that are etherified with 1 to 4 ethylene oxide units per molecule. More preferred nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range from 3 to 6 are selected from Laureth, Trideceth, Myristeth, Ceteth, Steareth, Araezeth, and Beheneth, having respectively 1 to 4 ethylene oxide units per molecule.
  • Steareth-1 Steareth-2, Steareth-3, Ceteth-1 , Ceteth- 2, Ceteth-3, Myristeth-1 , Myristeth-2, Laureth-1 , Beheneth-2, Beheneth-3, and Beheneth-4, whereby Steareth-2 is chosen as the most preferred nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 3 to 6.
  • compositions preferred according to the present invention are therein characterized that the weight ratio of the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18, especially the above disclosed preferred and most preferred nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value from 12 to 18, and the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range from 3 to 6, especially the above disclosed preferred and most preferred nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value from 3 to 6, is in the range from 1 :1.2 to 1 :2, preferably 1 :1.4 to 1 :1.8 and most preferably 1 :1.5 to 1 :1.7.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably contains at least one volatile silicone oil.
  • silicone oil generally conforms to polyalkylsiloxanes, preferably solely to polydimethylsiloxanes.
  • volatile refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at normal conditions.
  • volatile silicone oils can be found in the article“Volatile silicone fluids for cosmetics”, 91 Cosmetic and Toiletries 27-32 (1976).
  • the volatile silicone oils which are in accordance with the invention are preferably therein characterized that they have a kinematic viscosity in the range from 0.5 cSt (Centistoke) to 10 cSt, preferably 2 cSt to 6 cSt at 25°C.
  • the kinematic viscosity of the volatile silicone oils can be determined using a glass capillary viscometer. The method is described in the publication of the American Society for Testing And Materials (ASTM), Philadelphia, Penn., ASTM D 445-94,“Standard Test Method for Kinematic Viscosity of Transparent and Opaque Liquids (the Calculation of Dynamic Viscosity)”.
  • the volatile silicone oil contained in the cosmetic composition is chosen from volatile linear silicone oils.
  • Preferred linear silicone oils that are in accordance with the present invention are volatile linear silicone oils having 2 to 10 siloxane units as for example in the commercial products Dow Corning ® 200 (0.65 cSt), Dow Corning ® 200 (1 ,5 cSt) and Dow Corning ® 200 (5 cSt) from Dow Corning.
  • the volatile silicone oil contained in the cosmetic composition is chosen from volatile cyclic silicone oils.
  • Cyclic silicone oils are generally marketed under CTFA designation Cyclomethicone.
  • Volatile cyclic silicone oils that are preferred according to the invention conform to the formula (I)
  • n is an integer in the range from 3 to 9, more preferably 4 to 6.
  • oils usually have a vapor pressure of about 13-25 Pa at 20°C.
  • Suitable cyclic volatile silicone oils for use herein include, but are not limited to the commercial products Mirasil CM5 (Bluestar Silicones) and Xiameter PMX-0245 (Dow
  • volatile cyclic silicone oils are chosen in favor of the volatile linear silicone oils. Therefore, it is preferred if the at least one volatile silicone oil is selected from volatile cyclic silicone oils, most preferred from volatile cyclic silicone oils which are in accordance with the formula I, wherein n is 5.
  • the cosmetic composition contains glycerol.
  • the quantity of glycerol is in the range from 0.5% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 1.2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the ratio by weight between the at least one volatile silicone oil and the glycerol is preferably in the range from 2:1 to 6:1 , more preferably from 2.3:1 to 4:1 and most preferably from 2.5:1 to 3.5:1.
  • the oil phase and lipid phase of the oil-in-water emulsion solely contains volatile silicon oils and perfume, wherein the perfume does preferably not exceed 1.2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • water is contained in the cosmetic composition in a quantity in the range from 60% to 90% by weight, more preferably 75% to 85% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention is intended to be applied to the human skin using a roll-on dispenser, such as known from commercial antiperspirant products.
  • a roll-on dispenser such as known from commercial antiperspirant products.
  • a typical example is the Nivea Stress Protect product known under the Mintel GNPD number 4786819.
  • the composition has to have a viscosity, which is neither too low nor too high. It was found that preferred cosmetic compositions of the present invention are therein characterized that they have a viscosity in the range from 400 to 1500 mPa-s and preferably 500 to 1300 mPa-s at 35°C.
  • the viscosity of the cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion of the invention is determined at 35° C in a 150 ml beaker using a Rheomat R 123 by the company proRheo.
  • the Rheomat R 123 is a rotational viscometer, i.e. a measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. It measures the force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a predetermined speed. For this torque, the rotational speed of the measuring body and the geometric dimensions of the measurement system used, the viscosity is calculated.
  • As a measuring body the measurement bob 1 (Part no. 200 0191 ) at a rotational speed range of 62.5 min -1 is used.
  • the formulations according to the invention were prepared in the following manner. All ingredients of the 1. Part were melted at 75°C. Then the 2. Part (35°C) was added to the 1 . Part. After mixing both the 3. Part was added and the mixture was homogenized. After homogenization the 4. Part was added. The 5. Part was added at a temperature of 30°C and the final composition was obtained after a final homogenization.
  • the viscosity of the example composition Inv. 1 was determined to be 500 mPa-s at 35°C using a Rheomat R 123 (See method disclosed in the description above).
  • compositions were evenly spread with a finger to form an evenly spread layer in the marked section. Then the stickiness of the compositions were evaluated by continuous repetition of pressing the fingertip onto the skin and removing the finger from the skin until the skin feels dry.

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Abstract

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic composition containing at least one antiperspirant active ingredient and diatomaceous earth.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft
Hamburg
Antiperspirant cosmetic composition containing Diatomaceous Earth
The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic composition containing at least one antiperspirant active ingredient and diatomaceous earth. The compositions according to invention allow for a reduction of the felt stickiness of the compositions after application.
Antiperspirant products are commonly applied to the axillary region of the human body to prevent and/or reduce the sweat production. Technically this effect is achieved by
antiperspirant active ingredients blocking the sweat glands. Most commonly, those antiperspirant active ingredients are specific aluminum salts, which polymerize and thereby block the entrance of the sweat glands. Here, it should be noted that such a blocking of the sweat glands is only temporarily. The aluminum salts, which are most commonly used as antiperspirant active ingredients, are water soluble such that normal sweat production usually removes the polymerized aluminum salts within 72 hours from the sweat glands. In addition, the aluminum salts may be removed by washing the axillary region with water.
Standard commercial antiperspirant products are mostly formulated as aerosol, pump spray, roll-on preparation, cream or stick. The popularity of these products varies depending on the region. For example, in Europe most markets are dominated by aerosol and roll-on preparations, whereby in North America customers prefer to use antiperspirant sticks.
Independent of the chosen product form the antiperspirant compositions on the market may suffer certain disadvantages when being applied to the human skin. For example for many customers it is desirable that the formulations do not feel sticky on the skin after application. Therefore, a number of approaches were disclosed of methods how to reduce the sticky feeling of antiperspirant compositions after application to the skin.
For example W02005105026 A1 discloses the use of a a-hydroxy carboxylic acid in water to reduce the stickiness recognized by the customer after application to the skin. The examples disclose the use of mandelic acid. However, the addition of a-hydroxy carboxylic acids such as mandelic acid may result in an unpleasant smell. Furthermore, US20070190089 A1 discloses antiperspirant compositions containing a water soluble ester as detackifying agent. Furthermore, ester are also known for an unpleasant smell.
The document W01997044009 A1 describes the use of esterified hydrophilic starches, such as starch sodium octenyl succinates, which allow for a reduction of the stickiness of cosmetic compositions. According to the description these compounds can also be contained in antiperspirant compositions.
Looking at the state of the art the most approaches have the disadvantage that the reduction of the stickiness of antiperspirant compositions after application to the skin is achieved by the use of non-natural chemical substance or chemically modified substances. As nowadays customer often preferred to buy cosmetic products including mainly natural substances, there is a current need to provide antiperspirant cosmetic composition which include natural agents to reduce the stickiness of the composition after application to the skin.
It was surprisingly found that the composition according to the present invention does not suffer the disadvantage discussed above. In particular it was found that the invention allows to reduce the stickiness an antiperspirant composition after the application to the skin. The present invention is a cosmetic composition containing
a) at least one antiperspirant active ingredient, and
b) Diatomaceous earth.
Another subject of the present invention is the use of diatomaceous earth in a cosmetic composition containing at least one antiperspirant active ingredient to reduce the sticky feeling of the composition on the skin after application.
All the weight percentages (% by weight) given below relate, unless otherwise stated, to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If ratios of certain components are disclosed in the following description, these ratios refer, unless otherwise stated, to weight ratios of the components.
Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under“normal conditions”. The term "normal conditions" refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%. For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term "free from" means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.05% by weight. This ensures that entrainments or impurities with these substances are not included as "free from" according to the invention.
The term“skin” refers solely to human skin.
According to the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains at least one antiperspirant active ingredient.
One group of preferred antiperspirant active ingredients, which is in accordance with the present invention, are aluminum salts, which may be selected from the following non-limiting list:
Aluminum salts such as aluminum chloride, AICI3, aluminum sulfate, AI2(S04)3 Aluminum chlorides of the empirical formula [Al2(OH)mCln], where m + n = 6 Aluminum chlorohydrate [AI2(OH)5 Cl] x H20
Standard Al complexes: Locron P (Clariant), Micro-Dry (Reheis), ACH-331 (Summit), Aloxicoll PF 40 (Giulini). - Capitalized Al complexes: Reach 501 (Reheis), AACH 324 (Summit), AACH 7171 (Summit), Aloxicoll P (Giulini), Aloxicoll SD100
Aluminum sesquichlorohydrate [AI2(OH)4,5Ch,5] x H20 - Standard Al complexes: Aluminum sesquichlorohydrate (Reheis), AACH 308 (Summit) - Capitalized Al complexes: Reach 301 (Reheis)
Aluminum chlorohydrate [AI2(OH)4CI2] * H20
Another group of preferred antiperspirant active ingredients which can be included in the cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion of the present invention are aluminum-zirconium salts. These aluminum-zirconium salts may be selected from the following non-limiting list:
Aluminum / zirconium glycine trichlorohydrex [AI4Zr(OH)i3Cl3] x H20 Gly - standard Al/Zr complexes: Rezal 33GP (Reheis), AZG 7164 (Summit), Zirkonal P3G (Giulini) - Capitalized Al/Zr complexes: Reach AZZ 902 (Reheis), AAZG- 7160 (Summit), Zirkonal AP3G (Giulini)
Aluminum / zirconium glycine tetrachlorhydrex [AI4Zr(OH)i2CI4] cH20 Gly - standard Al / Zr complexes: Rezal 36G (Reheis), AZG-368 (Summit), Zirkonal L435G (Giulini) - Capitalized Al / Zr complexes : Reach 908 (Reheis), AAZG-7167 (Summit), Zirkonal AP4G (Giulini)
Aluminum / zirconium glycine Pentachlorhydrex [Al8Zr(OH)23Cl5] x H20 Gly
Aluminum / zirconium glycine Octachlorhydrex [Al8Zr(OH)2oCl8] x H20 Gly Glycin-free aluminum /zirconium salts
According to the present invention it is particularly preferred, if the at least one antiperspirant active ingredients is chosen from aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum
sesquichlorohydrate. Most preferred is aluminum chlorohydrate.
It is also preferred if the total quantity of the at least one antiperspirant active ingredient is in the range from 5% to 15% by weight, more preferably 7.5% to 12.5% by weight and most preferably 9% to 1 1 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
According to the invention the cosmetic composition contains in addition to the at least one antiperspirant active ingredient diatomaceous earth. The diatomaceous earth contained in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably characterized in that is has an oil absorption capability from 20 ml/100g mineral to 350 ml/100g mineral, more preferably from 100 ml/100g mineral to 300 ml/100g mineral and most preferably from 200 ml/100g mineral to 250 ml/100g mineral. One suitable example of such a mineral having an oil absorption capability of 225 ml/1 OOg mineral is marketed under the trade name ImerCare 400D (S) by the company IMERYS. According to the invention the oil absorption capability of the diatomaceous earth is determined according to the ASTM D-1483 - 12(2016) Standard Test Method for Oil Absorption of Pigments by Gardner-Coleman Method.
According to the present invention the diatomaceous earth, especially the diatomaceous earth having an oil absorption capability from 200 ml/1 OOg mineral to 250 ml/1 OOg mineral, is preferably contained in a total quantity of 0.1 % to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight and most preferably 0.75% to 1.25% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Therefore, in a first preferred embodiment of the invention the cosmetic composition contains, a) at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the group of aluminum
chlorohydrate and aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, and
b) diatomaceous earth; wherein the diatomaceous earth is characterized in that it has an oil absorption capability from 20 ml/1 OOg mineral to 350 ml/1 OOg mineral. Within this first preferred embodiment of the invention it is further preferred if the cosmetic composition contains, a) at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the group of aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, and
b) diatomaceous earth; wherein the diatomaceous earth is characterized in that it has an oil absorption capability from 100 ml/100g mineral to 300 ml/100g mineral.
Within the first preferred embodiment of the invention it is most preferred if the cosmetic composition contains, a) at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the group of aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, and
b) diatomaceous earth; wherein the diatomaceous earth is characterized in that it has an oil absorption capability from 200 ml/100g mineral to 250 ml/100g mineral.
Furthermore, within a second preferred embodiment of the invention the cosmetic composition contains, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, a) 7.5% to 12.5% by weight of at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the group of aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, and b) 0.1 % to 5% by weight diatomaceous earth; wherein the diatomaceous earth is characterized in that it has an oil absorption capability from 20 ml/100g mineral to 350 ml/100g mineral.
Within this second preferred embodiment of the invention it is further preferred if the cosmetic composition contains, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, a) 5% to 15% by weight of at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the group of aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, and b) 0.5% to 2% by weight diatomaceous earth; wherein the diatomaceous earth is characterized in that it has an oil absorption capability from 100 ml/100g mineral to 300 ml/100g mineral.
Within the second preferred embodiment of the invention it is most preferred if the cosmetic composition contains, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, a) 5% to 15% by weight of at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the group of aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, and b) 0.75% to 1.25% by weight diatomaceous earth; wherein the diatomaceous earth is characterized in that it has an oil absorption capability from 200 ml/100g mineral to 250 ml/100g mineral.
Furthermore, within a third preferred embodiment of the invention the cosmetic composition contains, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, a) 7.5% to 12.5% by weight of at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the group of aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, and b) 0.1 % to 5% by weight diatomaceous earth; wherein the diatomaceous earth is characterized in that it has an oil absorption capability from 100 ml/100g mineral to 300 ml/100g mineral.
Within this third preferred embodiment of the invention it is further preferred if the cosmetic composition contains, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, a) 9% to 1 1% by weight of at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the group of aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, and b) 0.5% to 2% by weight diatomaceous earth; wherein the diatomaceous earth is characterized in that it has an oil absorption capability from 200 ml/100g mineral to 250 ml/100g mineral.
Furthermore, in terms of the present invention the cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably therein characterized that it is an oil-in-water emulsion. Water-in-oil emulsions are often employed as formulation basis for roll on applications as they allow for a quick release of the antiperspirant active ingredient, while ingredients providing an extra caring effect can be included in the inner oil-phase. Especially those formulations suffer often from a sticky feeling, which may be caused by the lipophilic ingredients contained in the oil phase. Therefore it was also surprisingly found that by the use of diatomaceous earth in an oil-in-water emulsion the stickiness of the composition after application to the skin was reduced.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably therein characterized that the total amount of the oil phase and lipid phase is in the range from 0.5% to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 2.5% to 4.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. By definition, emulsifiers are generally not included in the oil phase and lipid phase.
In the case that the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, it is preferred if the emulsion is a macro-emulsion. In terms of the present invention the term macro-emulsion is understood to be an emulsion therein characterized that the average diameter of the emulsified droplets exceeds 1 pm.
Within the meaning of the present invention, the "average diameter of the emulsified droplets" is preferably understood to be the volume-average droplet diameter D50, which can be determined by the conventional methods, for example by laser diffraction. The volume- average droplet diameter D50 is the point in the particle size distribution at which 50 vol.% of the emulsified droplets have a smaller diameter and 50 vol.% of the emulsified droplets have a larger diameter.
Furthermore, in terms of the present invention it is favorable if the composition is free from PPG alkyl ethers as these components may adversely affect the properties of the
composition. The same is true for C12-15 alkyl benzoate.
It was further found that in accordance with the present invention the stability of the cosmetic composition can be increased by adding at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18. Thus, preferred cosmetic compositions of the present invention are therein characterized that at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18 is contained.
According to the invention the nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18 are preferably selected from linear saturated and unsaturated C12 to C24 primary alcohols that are etherified with 7 to 40 ethylene oxide units per molecule. In particular those nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18 are preferred that are selected from Laureth, Trideceth, Myristeth, Ceteth, Steareth, Arachideth, and Beheneth, having respectively 7 to 40 ethylene oxide units per molecule. Nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18 that most preferred are selected from the group of Steareth-15, Steareth-20, Steareth-21 , Arachideth-20, Arachideth-21 , Beheneth-20,
Beheneth-21 , Ceteth-20, Ceteth-30, Ceteth-15, and Myristeth-15.
Further it is preferred if the cosmetic composition contains at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18, preferably at least one of the above disclosed preferred and most preferred nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18, in a total quantity from 0.5% to 2% by weight, more preferably 1% to 1.4% by weight, and most preferably from 1.1% to 1.3% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Preferred cosmetic compositions are further therein characterized that they contain at least one nonionic emulsifier with an HLB value in the range from 3 to 6 to increase the stability of the composition. In this manner, it is avoided that the compositions separates into different phases shortly after the preparation and the product experiences a prolonged shelf lifetime without changing its appearance.
Typical examples of preferred nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range from 3 to 6 are selected from linear saturated and unsaturated C12 to C30 primary alcohols that are etherified with 1 to 4 ethylene oxide units per molecule. More preferred nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range from 3 to 6 are selected from Laureth, Trideceth, Myristeth, Ceteth, Steareth, Arachideth, and Beheneth, having respectively 1 to 4 ethylene oxide units per molecule. Even more preferred are Steareth-1 , Steareth-2, Steareth-3, Ceteth-1 , Ceteth- 2, Ceteth-3, Myristeth-1 , Myristeth-2, Laureth-1 , Beheneth-2, Beheneth-3, and Beheneth-4, whereby Steareth-2 is chosen as the most preferred nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 3 to 6.
Generally, it has to be pointed out that in terms of stability the combination of Steareth-21 as nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 12 to 18 and Steareth-2 as nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 3 to 6 is most preferred. This combinations also showed a surprisingly low stickiness of the composition after application to the skin.
Further cosmetic compositions preferred according to the present invention are therein characterized that the weight ratio of the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18, especially the above disclosed preferred and most preferred nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value from 12 to 18, and the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range from 3 to 6, especially the above disclosed preferred and most preferred nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value from 3 to 6, is in the range from 1 :1.2 to 1 :2, preferably 1 :1.4 to 1 :1.8 and most preferably 1 :1.5 to 1 :1.7.
According to the present invention it is possible to include further emulsifier, however it is preferred if the emulsifiers included in the cosmetic composition are limited to those specified above, more preferably to Steareth-2 and Steareth-21. The cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably contains at least one volatile silicone oil. The term silicone oil generally conforms to polyalkylsiloxanes, preferably solely to polydimethylsiloxanes.
As used herein, the term“volatile” refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at normal conditions. A general description of non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils can be found in the article“Volatile silicone fluids for cosmetics”, 91 Cosmetic and Toiletries 27-32 (1976).
Furthermore, the volatile silicone oils which are in accordance with the invention are preferably therein characterized that they have a kinematic viscosity in the range from 0.5 cSt (Centistoke) to 10 cSt, preferably 2 cSt to 6 cSt at 25°C. The kinematic viscosity of the volatile silicone oils can be determined using a glass capillary viscometer. The method is described in the publication of the American Society for Testing And Materials (ASTM), Philadelphia, Penn., ASTM D 445-94,“Standard Test Method for Kinematic Viscosity of Transparent and Opaque Liquids (the Calculation of Dynamic Viscosity)”.
In preferred embodiments of the invention the volatile silicone oil contained in the cosmetic composition is chosen from volatile linear silicone oils. Preferred linear silicone oils that are in accordance with the present invention are volatile linear silicone oils having 2 to 10 siloxane units as for example in the commercial products Dow Corning ® 200 (0.65 cSt), Dow Corning ® 200 (1 ,5 cSt) and Dow Corning ® 200 (5 cSt) from Dow Corning.
In other embodiments of the invention the volatile silicone oil contained in the cosmetic composition is chosen from volatile cyclic silicone oils. Cyclic silicone oils are generally marketed under CTFA designation Cyclomethicone. Volatile cyclic silicone oils that are preferred according to the invention conform to the formula (I)
Figure imgf000010_0001
wherein n is an integer in the range from 3 to 9, more preferably 4 to 6. These oils usually have a vapor pressure of about 13-25 Pa at 20°C. Suitable cyclic volatile silicone oils for use herein include, but are not limited to the commercial products Mirasil CM5 (Bluestar Silicones) and Xiameter PMX-0245 (Dow
Corning).
In terms of the present invention volatile cyclic silicone oils are chosen in favor of the volatile linear silicone oils. Therefore, it is preferred if the at least one volatile silicone oil is selected from volatile cyclic silicone oils, most preferred from volatile cyclic silicone oils which are in accordance with the formula I, wherein n is 5.
According to the invention the cosmetic composition contains glycerol. Thereby, it is preferred, if the quantity of glycerol is in the range from 0.5% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 1.2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In addition, the ratio by weight between the at least one volatile silicone oil and the glycerol is preferably in the range from 2:1 to 6:1 , more preferably from 2.3:1 to 4:1 and most preferably from 2.5:1 to 3.5:1.
Generally, it is preferred if the oil phase and lipid phase of the oil-in-water emulsion solely contains volatile silicon oils and perfume, wherein the perfume does preferably not exceed 1.2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
According to the present invention it is additionally preferred if water is contained in the cosmetic composition in a quantity in the range from 60% to 90% by weight, more preferably 75% to 85% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention is intended to be applied to the human skin using a roll-on dispenser, such as known from commercial antiperspirant products. A typical example is the Nivea Stress Protect product known under the Mintel GNPD number 4786819. For optimum dispensing properties of the cosmetic composition the composition has to have a viscosity, which is neither too low nor too high. It was found that preferred cosmetic compositions of the present invention are therein characterized that they have a viscosity in the range from 400 to 1500 mPa-s and preferably 500 to 1300 mPa-s at 35°C.
The viscosity of the cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion of the invention is determined at 35° C in a 150 ml beaker using a Rheomat R 123 by the company proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 is a rotational viscometer, i.e. a measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. It measures the force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a predetermined speed. For this torque, the rotational speed of the measuring body and the geometric dimensions of the measurement system used, the viscosity is calculated. As a measuring body the measurement bob 1 (Part no. 200 0191 ) at a rotational speed range of 62.5 min -1 is used.
Examples:
The following examples should illustrate the compositions of this invention, without intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Figure imgf000012_0001
Com = Comparative example, not according to the invention
Inv = Inventive example, according to the invention
1Mirasil CM5
2lmerCare 400D (S), IMERYS; oil absorption capability of 225ml/100g mineral
The formulations according to the invention were prepared in the following manner. All ingredients of the 1. Part were melted at 75°C. Then the 2. Part (35°C) was added to the 1 . Part. After mixing both the 3. Part was added and the mixture was homogenized. After homogenization the 4. Part was added. The 5. Part was added at a temperature of 30°C and the final composition was obtained after a final homogenization. The viscosity of the example composition Inv. 1 was determined to be 500 mPa-s at 35°C using a Rheomat R 123 (See method disclosed in the description above).
The stickiness of the example compositions was evaluated in the following manner:
i) Circles with 2 cm diameter were marked on the forearms of each participant taking part in the study.
ii) Per marked section on the forearm 25 pg of one of the composition listed in the
following table was applied
iii) The compositions were evenly spread with a finger to form an evenly spread layer in the marked section. Then the stickiness of the compositions were evaluated by continuous repetition of pressing the fingertip onto the skin and removing the finger from the skin until the skin feels dry.
iv) The stickiness was rated on a scale from 1 to 5, wherein 1 means not sticky at all and 5 means very sticky.
v) The results were obtained from a panel of 8 people.
Following the panel study it was surprisingly found that by the addition of diatomaceous earth the stickiness of the composition was reduced.
The following examples shall further exemplify the present invention.
Figure imgf000013_0001
Figure imgf000014_0003
Figure imgf000014_0001
Figure imgf000014_0002
Figure imgf000015_0001
Figure imgf000015_0002

Claims

Claims
1. Cosmetic composition containing
a) at least one antiperspirant active ingredient, and
b) diatomaceous earth.
2. Use of diatomaceous earth in a cosmetic composition containing at least one antiperspirant active ingredient to reduce the sticky feeling of the composition on the skin after application.
3. Cosmetic composition or use according to claim 1 or 2 characterized in that the antiperspirant active ingredient is an aluminum salt.
4. Cosmetic composition or use according to any of the claims 1 to 3 characterized in that the at least one antiperspirant active ingredients is chosen from aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum sesquichlorohydrate.
5. Cosmetic composition or use according to any of the claims 1 to 4 characterized in that the at least one antiperspirant active ingredient is in the range from 5% to 15% by weight, more preferably 7.5% to 12.5% by weight and most preferably 9% to 1 1% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
6. Cosmetic composition or use according any of the claims 1 to 5 characterized in that the diatomaceous earth has an oil absorption capability from 20 ml/100g mineral to 350 ml/100g mineral, more preferably from 100 ml/100g mineral to 300 ml/100g mineral and most preferably from 200 ml/100g mineral to 250 ml/100g mineral.
7. Cosmetic composition or use according to any of the claims 1 to 6 characterized in that the diatomaceous earth is contained in a total quantity of 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight and most preferably 0.75% to 1.25% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
8. Cosmetic composition or use according to any of the claims 1 to 7 characterized in that the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion.
9. Cosmetic composition or use according to any of the claims 1 to 8 characterized in that total amount of the oil phase and lipid phase is in the range from 0.5% to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 2.5% to 4.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
10. Cosmetic composition or use according to any of the claims 1 to 9 characterized in that the cosmetic composition contains at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18 in a total quantity from 0.5% to 2% by weight, more preferably 1 % to 1.4% by weight, and most preferably from 1 .1 % to 1.3% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
1 1. Cosmetic composition or use according to any of the claims 1 to 10 characterized in that the cosmetic composition contains at least one nonionic emulsifier with an HLB value in the range from 3 to 6.
12. Cosmetic composition or use according to claim 1 1 characterized in that that the
weight ratio of the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18 and the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range from 3 to 6 is in the range from 1 :1.2 to 1 :2, preferably 1 :1.4 to 1 :1 .8 and most preferably 1 :1.5 to 1 :1 .7.
13. Cosmetic composition or use according to any of the claims 1 to 12 characterized in that the cosmetic composition contains at least one volatile silicone oil.
14. Cosmetic composition or use according to claim 13 characterized in that the volatile silicone oil has a kinematic viscosity in the range from 0.5 cSt to 10 cSt, preferably 2 cSt to 6 cSt at 25°C.
15. Cosmetic composition or use according to any of the claims 1 to 14 characterized in that the cosmetic composition contains the glycerol in a total quantity in the range from 0.5% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 1 .2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
PCT/EP2017/079400 2017-11-16 2017-11-16 Antiperspirant cosmetic composition containing diatomaceous earth WO2019096381A1 (en)

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ES2806798A1 (en) * 2019-08-14 2021-02-18 Gonzalez Araceli Escribano Product with diatomaceous earth to absorb sweat (Machine-translation by Google Translate, not legally binding)
BE1029892B1 (en) * 2021-11-02 2023-06-05 Sylphar Nv COMPOSITION FOR THE TREATMENT OF PERSPIRATION

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2806798A1 (en) * 2019-08-14 2021-02-18 Gonzalez Araceli Escribano Product with diatomaceous earth to absorb sweat (Machine-translation by Google Translate, not legally binding)
BE1029892B1 (en) * 2021-11-02 2023-06-05 Sylphar Nv COMPOSITION FOR THE TREATMENT OF PERSPIRATION

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