WO2019037844A1

WO2019037844A1 - Novel compositions of natural butters and uses thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2019037844A1
Application number: PCT/EP2017/071231
Authority: WO
Inventors: Adelino NAKANO; Carolina LOURENÇO
Original assignee: Symrise Ag
Priority date: 2017-08-23
Filing date: 2017-08-23
Publication date: 2019-02-28

Abstract

The present invention primarily relates to a composition consisting of or comprising cacao butter and cupuaçu butter as described herein, and a cosmetic product containing said composition. The present inventionfurther relates to the use of a composition or cosmetic product as described herein for influencing or modifying human hair, methods for influencing or modifying human hair and methods for obtaining a composition or cosmetic product suitable for influencing or modifying human hair.

Description

Novel compositions of natural butters and uses thereof

The present invention primarily relates to a composition consisting of or comprising cacao butter and cupuagu butter as described herein, and a cosmetic product containing said composition. The present invention further relates to the use of a composition or cosmetic product as described herein for influencing or modifying human hair, methods for influencing or modifying human hair and methods for obtaining a composition or cosmetic product suitable for influencing or modifying human hair.

Further aspects of the present invention will arise from the description below, in particular from the examples, as well as from the attached patent claims.

The human hair presents four main structures in its morphology. The cuticle layer is the outermost superficial layer in which up to ten layers of cuticle cells are found. Its function is to protect the inner structures of the hair and to control the penetration of molecules. The cortex is the internal portion, in which 95% of the protein content is present. It is formed by longitudinal filaments oriented in parallel to the hair shaft. The medulla is the central structure and may be present or not in the hair length. Its function in the hair fiber is still not clear but recent investigations show influence on light diffusion. Finally, there is the cell membrane complex (CMC), which is also called hair cement. It is a lipidic matrix that keeps cuticle and cortex structures together. There are three types of CMCs. The first type of CMC is between just cuticles, the second type of CMC is between the innermost cuticle layer and the cortical cells and the third CMC is between the cortical cells themselves.

The hair fiber is a dead tissue and its exposition to different cosmetic treatments and/or environmental stress leads to the loss of amino acids, lipids and proteins and consequently, to the change of the structure of the hair fiber. As a result, the hair may appear dull, is hard to comb and difficult to manage and may display a non-homogeneous color.

Usual strategies to treat the hair involve, for instance, restoring the lost material such as replenishing the hair fiber with amino acids, certain lipids and even keratin-derived molecules, treating the damage with film forming materials, lubricants and/or silicones to improve its appearance, or preventing the damage in the first place by using UV filters, antioxidants and networking materials, which are able to reduce the friction of the hair with external physical treatments (like e.g. combing or brushing).

Thus, the object of the present invention was to provide novel compositions and cosmetic products (containing such compositions) that are capable of influencing or modifying human hair, in particular are able to efficiently protect the hair from damage caused by chemical and/or physical and/or environmental stress factors and/or repair or improve damage that has already occurred. It is also desirable that the novel compositions and cosmetic products additionally display satisfying performance in terms of other properties, such as e.g. improving combability of the hair (i.e. reducing the energy required to detangle the individual hair fibers).

According to a first aspect of the present invention, the stated objects are surprisingly achieved by a composition consisting of or comprising cacao butter and cupuagu butter, wherein the weight ratio of cacao butter to cupuagu butter is 9 : 1 to 1 : 9, preferably 5 : 1 to 1 : 5, more preferably 3 : 1 to 1 : 3, more preferably is 2 : 1 to 1 : 2, most preferably 1 : 1 , and wherein the composition contains 10 to 90 wt.-%, preferably 20 to 80 wt.-%, more preferably 40 to 60 wt.-% of cacao butter and/or 10 to 90 wt.-%, preferably 20 to 80 wt.- %, more preferably 40 to 60 wt.-% of cupuagu butter, based on the total weight of the composition. Particularly preferred is a composition consisting of cacao butter and cupuagu butter, wherein the weight ratio of cacao butter to cupuagu butter preferably is 1 : 1 , and wherein the composition preferably contains 50 wt.-% of cacao butter and 50 wt.-% of cupuagu butter, based on the total weight of the composition.

A second aspect of the present invention relates to a cosmetic product, preferably hair care or personal care product, more preferably shampoo (including anti-dandruff shampoo, baby shampoo, shampoo for dry scalps, concentrated shampoo, dry formulation of a shampoo), conditioner, preferably leave-on or leave-in conditioner (or a dry formulation of a conditioner or derivative thereof), 2-in-1 product (comprising shampoo and conditioner), tip repairing product, hair treatment cure, hair tonic, hair lotion, hair rinse, styling cream, hair setting composition, preferably formulated as gel, mousse or spray, styling aid, blonding composition or hair coloring composition, most preferably shampoo, conditioner, preferably leave-on or leave-in conditioner, or 2-in-1 product, comprising or consisting of a composition as defined above.

During the studies underlying the present invention, it was surprisingly found that hair care products comprising or consisting of a composition as defined above were able to efficiently improve the combability of human hair and/or protect human hair against physical and/or chemical and/or environmental damage and/or reduce or repair the physical and/or chemical and/or environmental damage of human hair that has occurred in the past (cf. Example section for more details).

Preferred cosmetic products according to the invention are selected from the group of products for treatment, protecting, care and cleansing of the hair (hair care products), preferably leave-on products (meaning that one or more, preferably all, components of the composition according to the invention or of the cosmetic product according to the invention stay on the hair for a longer period of time, compared to rinse-off products, so that the effects as described above are more pronounced). The compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention are preferably in the form of an emulsion, e.g. W/O (water-in-oil), O W (oil-in-water), W/O W (water-in-oil-in- water), 0 W/O (oil-in-water-in-oil) emulsion, PIT emulsion, Pickering emulsion, emulsion with a low oil content, micro- or nanoemulsion, a gel (including hydrogel, hydrodispersion gel, oleogel), a solution e.g. in oil (fatty oils or fatty acid esters, in particular C₆-C₃₂ fatty acid C₂-C₃₀ esters) or silicone oil, dispersion, suspension, cream, lotion or milk, depending on the production method and ingredients, pomade, spray (e.g. pump spray or spray with propellant) or a foam, paste, oil, balsam, serum, powder, mask or aerosol (foaming, non-foaming or post-foaming). The compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention may further contain antidandruff agents, irritation-preventing agents, irritation-inhibiting agents, antioxidants, astringents, antiseptic agents, ant-statics, binders, buffers, carrier materials, chelating agents, cell stimulants, cleansing agents, care agents, softeners, emulsifiers, enzymes, essential oils, fibres, film-forming agents, fixatives, foam-forming agents, foam stabilizers, substances for preventing foaming, foam boosters, gelling agents, gel-forming agents, hair care agents, hair-setting agents, hair-straightening agents, moisture-donating agents, moisturizing substances, moisture-retaining substances, bleaching agents, strengthening agents, optically brightening agents, gloss agents, polymers, powders, proteins, re-oiling agents, silicones, hair promotion agents, cooling agents, skin-cooling agents, warming agents, skin-warming agents, stabilizers, UV-absorbing agents, UV filters, detergents, thickeners, vitamins, oils, waxes, fats, phospholipids, saturated fatty acids, mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acids, ohydroxy acids, polyhydroxyfatty acids, liquefiers, dyestuffs, color-protecting agents, pigments, odoriferous substances, polyols, surfactants, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives and the like as additional auxiliaries and/or additives.

SURFACTANS

Preferred auxiliaries and/or additives are anionic and/or amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkylether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (particularly wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution although they preferably have a narrow-range homolog distribution. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamido- betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are all known compounds. Information on their structure and production can be found in relevant synoptic works, cf. for example J. Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pages 54 to 124 or J. Falbe (ed.), "Katalysatoren, Tenside und Mineraloladditive (Catalysts, Surfactants and Mineral Oil Additives)", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pages 123-217. The percentage content of surfactants in the compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention may be from 0.1 to 10% by weight and is preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition or cosmetic product.

OIL BODIES

Suitable oil bodies, which form constituents of O/W emulsions, are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of linear C₆-C₂₂-fatty acids with linear or branched C₆-C₂₂-fatty alcohols or esters of branched C₆-Ci₃-carboxylic acids with linear or branched C₆-C₂₂-fatty alcohols, such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters of linear C₆-C₂₂-fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2- ethylhexanol, esters of Ci₈-C₃₈-alkyl hydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C₆- C₂2-fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malate, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as, for example, propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C₆-Ci₀-fatty acids, liquid mono-/di- /triglyceride mixtures based on C₆-Ci₈-fatty acids, esters of C₆- C₂2-fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C₂- Ci₂-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C₆-C₂₂-fatty alcohol carbonates, such as, for example, Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates, based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and/or branched C₆-C₂₂-alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicone methicone grades, etc.) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

EMULSIFIERS

Other surfactants may also be added to the compositions or cosmetic products as emulsifiers, including for example:

• Products of the addition of 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear C₈-22 fatty alcohols, onto C12-22 fatty acids and onto alkyl phenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;

· C12/18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol;

• glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms and ethylene oxide addition products thereof;

· addition products of 15 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;

• polyol esters and, in particular, polyglycerol esters such as, for example, polygly- cerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate isostearate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes are also suit- able;

• addition products of 2 to 15 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;

• partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C₆/22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, penta- erythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (for example sorbitol), alkyl glucosides

(for example methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglu- cosides (for example cellulose);

• mono-, di and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and/or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and salts thereof;

· wool wax alcohols;

• polysiloxane/polyalkyl polyether copolymers and corresponding derivatives;

• mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and/or mixed esters of C₆-22 fatty acids, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol,

• polyalkylene glycols and

• glycerol carbonate.

The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or onto castor oil are known commercially available products. They are homologue mixtures of which the average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio between the quantities of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C12/18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide onto glycerol are known as lipid layer enhancers for cosmetic formulations. The preferred emulsifiers are described in more detail as follows:

Partial glycerides. Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric acid diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and technical mixtures thereof which may still contain small quantities of triglyceride from the production process. Addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide onto the partial glycerides mentioned are also suitable.

Sorbitan esters. Suitable sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesqui- isostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and technical mixtures thereof. Addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

Polyglycerol esters. Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls^® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (Lameform^® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan^® Gl 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care^® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina^®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane^® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul^® WOL 1403), Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and mixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable polyolesters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylol propane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, cocofatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide.

Anionic emulsifiers. Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic C12-22 fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid for example, and C12-22 dicarboxylic acids, such as azelaic acid or sebacic acid for example.

Amphoteric emulsifiers. Other suitable emulsifiers are amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3- carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Ampholytic surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cam alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH- or -SO3H- group in the molecule and which are capable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N- alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids containing around 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C acyl sarcosine.

SUPERFATTING AGENTS AND CONSISTENCY FACTORS

Superfatting agents may be selected from such substances as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acid alkanolamides also serving as foam stabilizers.

The consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and/or polyglycerol poly-12- hydroxystearates is preferably used.

THICKENING AGENTS AND RHEOLOGY ADDITIVES

Suitable thickeners are polymeric thickeners, such as Aerosil® types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, more especially xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, also relatively high molecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for example Carbopols® [Goodrich] or Synthalens® [Sigma]), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, for example pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane, narrow-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates and electrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride. POLYMERS

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives such as, for example, the quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose obtainable from Amerchol under the name of Polymer JR 400®, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole polymers such as, for example, Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat® L, Griinau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such as, for example, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine^®, Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (Merquat^® 550, Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides and crosslinked water-soluble polymers thereof, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally in microcrystalline distribution, condensation products of dihaloalkyls, for example dibromobutane, with bis- dialkylamines, for example bis-dimethylamino-1 ,3-propane, cationic guar gum such as, for example, Jaguar^®CBS, Jaguar^®C-17, Jaguar^®C-16 of Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as, for example, Mirapol^® A-15, Mirapol^® AD-1 , Mirapol^® AZ-1 of Miranol and the various polyquaternium types (for example 6, 7, 32 or 37) which can be found in the market under the tradenames Rheocare^® CC or Ultragel^® 300.

Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacryl- amide/methyl methacrylate/tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones. PEARLIZING WAXES

Suitable pearlising waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides, especially cocofatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fatty compounds, such as for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates which contain in all at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearylether; fatty acids, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyols containing 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

SILICONES

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes, methylphenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and/or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which may be both liquid and resin-like at room temperature. Other suitable silicone compounds are simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can be found in Todd ef al. in Cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

WAXES AND STABILIZERS

Besides natural oils, waxes may also be present in the compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention, more especially natural waxes such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espartograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat, ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes and microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as, for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.

Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminium and/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.

PRIMARY SUN PROTECTION FACTORS

Primary sun protection factors in the context of the present invention are, for example, organic substances (light filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and of releasing the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat.

The compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention advantageously contain at least one UV-A filter and/or at least one UV-B filter and/or a broadband filter and/or at least one inorganic pigment. Formulations according to the invention preferably contain at least one UV-B filter or a broadband filter, more particularly preferably at least one UV-A filter and at least one UV-B filter.

Preferred cosmetic compositions comprise one, two, three or more sun protection factors selected from the group consistiung of 4-aminobenzoic acid and derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, diphenyl acrylates, 3-imidazol-4-yl acrylic acid and esters thereof, benzofuran derivatives, benzylidene malonate derivatives, polymeric UV absorbers containing one or more organosilicon radicals, cinnamic acid derivatives, camphor derivatives, trianilino-s-triazine derivatives, 2-hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid derivatives and salts thereof, anthranilic acid menthyl esters, benzotriazole derivatives and indole derivatives.

The UV filters cited below, which can be used within the context of the present invention, are preferred but naturally are not limiting.

UV filters which are preferably used are selected from the group consisting of

• p-aminobenzoic acid

· p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (25 mol) ethoxylated (INCI name: PEG-25 PABA)

• p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester

• p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (2 mol) N-propoxylated

• p-aminobenzoic acid glycerol ester

• salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (homosalates) (Neo Heliopan^®HMS)

· salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan^®OS)

• triethanolamine salicylate • 4-isopropyl benzyl salicylate

• anthranilic acid menthyl ester (Neo Heliopan^®MA)

• diisopropyl cinnamic acid ethyl ester

• p-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan^®AV)

• diisopropyl cinnamic acid methyl ester

• p-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester (Neo Heliopan^®E 1000)

• p-methoxycinnamic acid diethanolamine salt

• p-methoxycinnamic acid isopropyl ester

• 2-phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and salts (Neo Heliopan^®Hydro)

• 3-(4'-trimethylammonium)benzylidene bornan-2-one methyl sulfate

• beta-imidazole-4(5)-acrylic acid (urocanic acid)

• 3-(4'-sulfo)benzylidene bornan-2-one and salts

• 3-(4'-m ethyl benzylidene)-D,L-camphor (Neo Heliopan^®MBC)

• 3-benzylidene-D,L-camphor

• N-[(2 and 4)-[2-(oxoborn-3-ylidene)methyl]benzyl] acrylamide polymer

• 4,4'-[(6-[4-(1 ,1-dimethyl)aminocarbonyl)phenylamino]-1 ,3,5-triazine-2,4- diyl)diimino]-bis-(benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester) (Uvasorb^®HEB)

• benzylidene malonate polysiloxane (Parsol^®SLX)

• glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate

• dipropylene glycol salicylate

• tris(2-ethylhexyl)-4,4',4"-(1 ,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)tribenzoate (= 2,4,6- trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1 '-oxy)-1 ,3,5-triazine) (Uvinul^®T150).

Broadband filters which are preferably contained in the compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of

• 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (Neo Heliopan^®303)

• ethyl-2-cyano-3,3'-diphenyl acrylate 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (Neo Heliopan^®BB)

2-hyd roxy-4-m ethoxybenzophenone-5-su Ifon ic acid

dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone

tetrahydroxybenzophenone

2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone

2-hydroxy-4-n-octoxybenzophenone

2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methyl benzophenone

sodium hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonate

disodium-2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxy-5,5'-disulfobenzophenone

phenol, 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3(1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- (trime-thylsilyl)oxy)disiloxyanyl) propyl) (Mexoryl®XL)

2,2'-methylene bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-1 , 1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (Tinosorb^®M)

2,4-bis-[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-1 ,3,5-triazine

2, 4-bis-[{(4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy} phenyl ]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 , 3,5- triazine (Tinosorb^®S)

2,4-bis-[{(4-(3-sulfonato)-2-hydroxypropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine sodium salt

2 ,4-bis-[ { (3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hyd roxypropyloxy)-2-hyd roxy} phenyl ]-6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine

2,4-bis-[{4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-[4-(2-methoxyethyl carbonyl) phenylamino]-1 ,3,5-triazine

2 ,4-bis-[ { 4-(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hyd roxypropyloxy)-2-hyd roxy} phenyl ]-6-[4-(2- ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino]-1 ,3,5-triazine

2,4-bis-[{4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(1-methylpyrrol-2-yl)-1 ,3,5- triazine

2, 4-bis-[{4-tris-(trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy)-2-hydroxy} phenyl ]-6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine • 2,4-bis-[{4-(2"-methylpropenyloxy)-2^

triazine

• 2,4-bis-[{4-(1 ', 1 ', 1 ',3',5',5',5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2"-methylpropyloxy)-2- hydroxy} phenyl ]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 , 3, 5-triazine.

The compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention can comprise further typical detergent and cleansing composition ingredients such as UV-A filters, which are preferably selected from the group consisting of

• 4-isopropyl dibenzoyl methane

• terephthalylidene dibornane sulfonic acid and salts (Mexoryl^®SX)

• 4-t-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (avobenzone) / (Neo Heliopan^®357)

• phenylene bis-benzimidazyl tetrasulfonic acid disodium salt (Neo Heliopan^®AP)

• 2,2'-(1 ,4-phenylene)-bis-(1 H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid), monosodium salt

• 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (Uvinul^® A Plus)

• indanylidene compounds in accordance with DE 100 55 940 A1 (= WO 2002 038537 A1 )

The compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention can comprise further typical detergent and cleansing composition ingredients such as UV filters which are preferably selected from the group consisting of

• p-aminobenzoic acid

• 3-(4'-trimethylammonium) benzylidene bornan-2-one methyl sulfate

• salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (Neo Heliopan^®HMS)

• 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (Neo Heliopan^®BB)

• 2-phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Neo Heliopan^®Hydro)

• terephthalylidene dibornane sulfonic acid and salts (Mexoryl^®SX)

• 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Neo Heliopan^®357)

• 3-(4'-sulfo)benzylidene bornan-2-one and salts

• 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (Neo Heliopan^®303)

• N-[(2 and 4)-[2-(oxoborn-3-ylidene) methyl]benzyl] acrylamide polymer • p-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan^®AV)

• p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (25 mol) ethoxylated (INCI name: PEG-25 PABA)

• p-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester (Neo Heliopan^®E1000)

• 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1 '-oxy)-1 ,3,5-triazine (Uvinul^®T150)

• phenol,2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3(1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- (trimethylsilyl)oxy)disiloxyanyl) propyl) (Mexoryl^®XL)

• 4,4'-[(6-[4-(1 , 1-dimethyl)aminocarbonyl)phenylamino]-1 ,3,5-triazine-2,4- diyl)diimino]-bis-(benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester) (Uvasorb HEB)

• 3-(4'-m ethyl benzylidene)-D,L-camphor (Neo Heliopan^®MBC)

• 3-benzylidene camphor

• salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan^®OS)

• 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Padimate O)

• hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and Na salt

• 2,2'-methylene bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-1 , 1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (Tinosorb^®M)

• 2,4-bis-[{(4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5- triazine (Tinosorb^®S)

• benzylidene malonate polysiloxane (Parsol^®SLX)

• menthyl anthranilate (Neo Heliopan^®MA)

• indanylidene compounds in accordance with DE 100 55 940 (= WO 02/38537).

Further advantageous primary and also secondary sun protection factors are mentioned in WO 2005 123101 A1. Advantageously, these preparations contain at least one UVA filter and/or at least one UVB filter and/or at least one inorganic pigment. The preparations may be present here in various forms such as are conventionally used for sun protection preparations. Thus, they may be in form of a solution, an emulsion of the water-in-oil type (W/O) or of the oil-in-water type (O/W) or a multiple emulsion, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water type (W/O W), a gel, a hydrodispersion, a solid stick or else an aerosol.

Preferably, a composition or cosmetic product according to the invention contains a total amount of sunscreen agents, i.e. in particular UV filters and/or inorganic pigments (UV filtering pigments) so that the composition has a light protection factor of greater than or equal to 2 (preferably greater than or equal to 5). Such compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention are particularly suitable for protecting the human hair.

SECONDARY SUN PROTECTION FACTORS

Besides the groups of primary sun protection factors mentioned above, secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type may also be used. Secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is initiated when UV rays penetrate into the hair. Typical examples are amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- carnosine and derivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (for example alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, liponic acid and derivatives thereof (for example dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxine, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, alpha-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (for example butionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butionine sulfones, penta-, hexa- and hepta-thionine sulfoximine) in very small compatible dosages, also (metal) chelators (for example alpha- hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrine), alpha-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (for example linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives thereof (for example ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (for example vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butyl hydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, superoxide dismutase, titanium dioxide (for example dispersions in ethanol), zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO, ZnS0₄), selenium and derivatives thereof (for example selenium methionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and derivatives of these active substances suitable for the purposes of the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).

Advantageous inorganic secondary light protection pigments are finely dispersed metal oxides and metal salts which are also mentioned in WO 2005 123101 A1. The total quantity of inorganic pigments, in particular hydrophobic inorganic micro-pigments, in a finished composition or cosmetic product according to the invention is advantageously from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the composition or cosmetic product.

Also preferred are particulate UV filters or inorganic pigments, which can optionally be hydrophobed, such as the oxides of titanium (Ti0₂), zinc (ZnO), iron (Fe₂0₃), zirconium (Zr0₂), silicon (Si0₂), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminium (Al₂0₃), cerium (e.g. Ce₂0₃) and/or mixtures thereof.

ACTIVES MODULATING HAIR PIGMENTATION

Preferred active ingredients for hair lightening are selected from the group consisting of: kojic acid (5-hydroxy-2-hydroxymethyl-4-pyranone), kojic acid derivatives, preferably kojic acid dipalmitate, arbutin, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, preferably magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, hydroquinone, hydroquinone derivatives, resorcinol, resorcinol derivatives, preferably 4-alkylresorcinols and 4-(1-phenylethyl)1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene (phenylethyl resorcinol), cyclohexylcarbamates (preferably one or more cyclohexyl carbamates disclosed in WO 2010/122178 and WO 2010/097480), sulfur-containing molecules, preferably glutathione or cysteine, alpha-hydroxy acids (preferably citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), salts and esters thereof, N-acetyl tyrosine and derivatives, undecenoyl phenylalanine, gluconic acid, chromone derivatives, preferably aloesin, flavonoids, 1-aminoethyl phosphinic acid, thiourea derivatives, ellagic acid, nicotinamide (niacinamide), zinc salts, preferably zinc chloride or zinc gluconate, thujaplicin and derivatives, triterpenes, preferably maslinic acid, sterols, preferably ergosterol, benzofuranones, preferably senkyunolide, vinyl guiacol, ethyl guiacol, dionic acids, preferably octodecene dionic acid and/or azelaic acid, inhibitors of nitrogen oxide synthesis, preferably L-nitroarginine and derivatives thereof, 2,7-dinitroindazole or thiocitrulline, metal chelators (preferably alpha-hydroxy fatty acids, phytic acid, humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof), retinoids, soy milk and extract, serine protease inhibitors or lipoic acid or other synthetic or natural active ingredients for hair lightening, the latter preferably used in the form of an extract from plants, preferably bearberry extract, rice extract, papaya extract, turmeric extract, mulberry extract, bengkoang extract, nutgrass extract, liquorice root extract or constituents concentrated or isolated therefrom, preferably glabridin or licochalcone A, artocarpus extract, extract of rumex and ramulus species, extracts of pine species (pinus), extracts of vitis species or stilbene derivatives isolated or concentrated therefrom, saxifrage extract, scutelleria extract, grape extract and/or microalgae extract, in particular Tetraselmis suecica Extract.

Advantageous hair tanning active ingredients in this respect are substrates or substrate analogues of tyrosinase such as L-tyrosine, N-acetyl tyrosine, L-DOPA or L- dihydroxyphenylalanine, xanthine alkaloids such as caffeine, theobromine and theophylline and derivatives thereof, proopiomelanocortin peptides such as ACTH, alpha-MSH, peptide analogues thereof and other substances which bind to the melanocortin receptor, peptides such as Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Lys-lle- Gly-Arg-Lys or Leu-lle-Gly-Lys, purines, pyrimidines, folic acid, copper salts such as copper gluconate, chloride or pyrrolidonate, 1 ,3,4-oxadiazole-2-thiols such as 5-pyrazin-2-yl-1 ,3,4-oxadiazole-2-thiol, curcumin, zinc diglycinate (Zn(Gly)2), manganese(ll) bicarbonate complexes ("pseudocat- alases") as described for example in EP 0 584 178, tetrasubstituted cyclohexene derivatives as described for example in WO 2005/032501 , isoprenoids as described in WO 2005/102252 and in WO 2006/010661 , melanin derivatives such as Melasyn-100 and MelanZe, diacyl glycerols, aliphatic or cyclic diols, psoralens, prostaglandins and analogues thereof, activators of adenylate cyclase and compounds which activate the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes such as serine proteases or agonists of the PAR-2 receptor, extracts of plants and plant parts of the chrysanthemum species, san- guisorba species, walnut extracts, urucum extracts, rhubarb extracts, microalgae extracts, in particular Isochrysis galbana, trehalose, erythrulose and dihydroxyacetone. Flavonoids which bring about hair tinting or browning (e.g. quercetin, rhamnetin, kaempferol, fisetin, genistein, daidzein, chrysin and apigenin, epicatechin, diosmin and diosmetin, morin, quercitrin, naringenin, hesperidin, phloridzin and phloretin) can also be used. The amount of the aforementioned examples of additional active ingredients for the modulation of hair pigmentation (one or more compounds) in the compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention preferably is 0.00001 to 30 wt.%, preferably 0.0001 to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition or cosmetic product.

HAIR GROWTH ACTIVATORS OR INHIBITORS

The compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention may also comprise one or more hair growth activators, i.e. agents to stimulate hair growth. Hair growth activators are preferably selected from the group consisting of pyrimidine derivatives such as 2,4- diaminopyrimidine-3-oxide (Aminexil), 2,4-diamino-6-piperidinopyrimidine-3-oxide (Minoxidil) and derivatives thereof, 6-amino-1 ,2-dihydro-1-hydroxy-2-imino-4- piperidinopyrimidine and its derivatives, xanthine alkaloids such as caffeine, theobromine and theophylline and derivatives thereof, quercetin and derivatives, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin) and derivatives, potassium channel openers, antiandrogenic agents, synthetic or natural 5-reductase inhibitors, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopheryl nicotinate, benzyl nicotinate and C1-C6 alkyl nicotinate, proteins such as for example the tripeptide Lys-Pro-Val, diphencypren, hormons, finasteride, dutasteride, flutamide, bicalutamide, pregnane derivatives, progesterone and its derivatives, cyproterone acetate, spironolactone and other diuretics, calcineurin inhibitors such as FK506 (Tacrolimus, Fujimycin) and its derivatives, Cyclosporin A and derivatives thereof, zinc and zinc salts, polyphenols, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, phytosterols such as for example beta- sitosterol, biotin, eugenol, (±)-beta-citronellol, panthenol, glycogen for example from mussels, extracts from microorganisms, algae, plants and plant parts of for example the genera dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum), Orthosiphon, Vitex, Coffea, Paullinia, Theobroma, Asiasarum, Cucurbita or Styphnolobium, Serenoa repens (saw palmetto), Sophora flavescens, Pygeum africanum, Panicum miliaceum, Cimicifuga racemosa, Glycine max, Eugenia caryophyllata, Cotinus coggygria, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Camellia sinensis, Ilex paraguariensis, Isochrysis galbana, licorice, grape, apple, barley or hops and/or hydrolysates from rice or wheat.

Alternatively, the compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention may comprise one or more hair growth inhibitors, i.e. agents to reduce or prevent hair growth. Hair growth inhibitors are preferably selected from the group consisting of activin, activin derivatives or activin agonists, ornithine decarboxylase inhibitors such as alpha- difluoromethylornithine or pentacyclic triterpenes like for example ursolic acid, betulin, betulinic acid, oleanolic acid and derivatives thereof, 5alpha-reductase inhibitors, androgen receptor antagonists, S-adenosylmethionine decarboxylase inhibitors, gamima- glutamyl transpeptidase inhibitors, transglutaminase inhibitors, soybean-derived serine protease inhibitors, extracts from microorganisms, algae, different microalgae or plants and plant parts of for example the families Leguminosae, Solanaceae, Graminae, Asclepiadaceae or Cucurbitaceae, the genera Chondrus, Gloiopeltis, Ceramium, Durvillea, Glycine max, Sanguisorba officinalis, Calendula officinalis, Hamamelis virginiana, Arnica montana, Salix alba, Hypericum perforatum or Gymnema sylvestre.

PHYSIOLOGICAL COOLING AGENTS

The compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention may also contain one or more substances with a physiological cooling effect (cooling agents), which are preferably selected from the following list: menthol and menthol derivatives (for example L-menthol, D-menthol, racemic menthol, isomenthol, neoisomenthol, neomenthol) menthylethers (for example (l-menthoxy)-1 ,2-propandiol, (l-menthoxy)-2-methyl-1 ,2- propandiol, l-menthyl-methylether), menthylesters (for example menthylformiate, menthylacetate, menthylisobutyrate, menthyllactates, L-menthyl-L-lactate, L-menthyl-D- lactate, menthyl-(2-methoxy)acetate, menthyl-(2-methoxyethoxy)acetate, menthylpyroglutamate), menthylcarbonates (for example menthylpropyleneglycolcarbonate, menthylethyleneglycolcarbonate, menthylglycerolcarbonate or mixtures thereof), the semi-esters of menthols with a dicarboxylic acid or derivatives thereof (for example mono-menthylsuccinate, mono- menthylglutarate, mono-menthylmalonate, O-menthyl succinic acid ester-N,N- (dimethyl)amide, O-menthyl succinic acid ester amide), menthanecarboxylic acid amides (in this case preferably menthanecarboxylic acid-N-ethylamide [WS3] or N^a- (menthanecarbonyl)glycinethylester [WS5], as described in US 4, 150,052, menthanecarboxylic acid-N-(4-cyanophenyl)amide or menthanecarboxylic acid-N-(4- cyanomethylphenyl)amide as described in WO 2005 049553 A1 , methanecarboxylic acid- N-(alkoxyalkyl)amides), menthone and menthone derivatives (for example L-menthone glycerol ketal), 2,3-dimethyl-2-(2-propyl)-butyric acid derivatives (for example 2,3- dimethyl-2-(2-propyl)-butyric acid-N-methylamide [WS23]), isopulegol or its esters (l-(-)- isopulegol, l-(-)-isopulegolacetate), menthane derivatives (for example p-menthane-3,8- diol), cubebol or synthetic or natural mixtures, containing cubebol, pyrrolidone derivatives of cycloalkyldione derivatives (for example 3-methyl-2(1-pyrrolidinyl)-2-cyclopentene-1- one) or tetrahydropyrimidine-2-one (for example iciline or related compounds, as described in WO 2004/026840), further carboxamides (for example N-(2-(pyridin-2- yl)ethyl)-3-p-menthanecarboxamide or related compounds), (1 R,2S,5R)-N-(4- Methoxyphenyl)-5-methyl-2-(1-isopropyl)-cyclohexane-carboxamide [WS12], oxamates (preferably those described in EP 2033688 A2).

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY AGENTS

Suitable anti-inflammatory agents may be selected from the group formed by:

(i) Steroidal anti-inflammatory substances of the corticosteroid type, in particular hydrocortisone, hydrocortisone derivatives such as hydrocortisone 17-butyrate, dexamethasone, dexamethasone phosphate, methylprednisolone or cortisone,

(ii) non-steroidal anti-inflammatory substances, in particular oxicams such as piroxicam or tenoxicam, salicylates such as aspirin, disalcid, solprin or fendosal, acetic acid derivatives such as diclofenac, fenclofenac, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin or clindanac, fenamates such as mefenamic, meclofenamic, flufenamic or niflumic, propionic acid derivatives such as ibuprofen, naproxen or benoxaprofen, pyrazoles such as phenylbutazone, oxyphenylbutazone, febrazone or azapropazone,

(iii) natural or naturally occuring anti-inflammatory substances or substances that alleviate reddening and/or itching, in particular extracts or fractions from camomile, Aloe vera, Commiphora species, Rubia species, willow, willow-herb, oats, calendula, arnica, St John's wort, honeysuckle, rosemary, Passiflora incarnata, witch hazel, ginger or Echinacea, or single active compounds thereof,

(iv) histamine receptor antagonists, serine protease inhibitors (e.g. of Soy extracts), TRPV1 antagonists (e.g. 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol), NK1 antagonists (e.g. Aprepitant, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid), cannabinoid receptor agonists (e.g. Palmitoyl Ethanolamine) and TRPV3 antagonists.

ANTI-MICROBIAL AGENTS

Suitable anti-microbial agents are, in principle, all substances effective against Gram- positive bacteria, such as, for example, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl)-N'-(3,4-dichlorophenyl)urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethyl-phenol, 2,2'-methylenebis(6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3- methyl-4-(1-methylethyl)phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chloro-phenol, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-1 ,2- propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, oil of cloves, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides, such as, for example, n-octylsalicylamide or n-decylsalicylamide.

FILM FORMERS AND ANTI-DANDRUFF AGENTS

Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof and similar compounds. Suitable antidandruff agents are Pirocton Olamin (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethyl- pentyl)-2-(1 H)-pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival^® (Climbazole), Ketoconazol® (4-acetyl-1-{4-[2-(2,4-dichlorophenyl) r-2-(1 H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl)-1 ,3-dioxylan-c-4-yl- methoxyphenyl}-piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, colloidal sulfur, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate, sulfur tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid, monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon^® UD (protein/undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminium pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione/dipyrithione magnesium sulfate.

CARRIERS AND HYDROTROPES

Preferred cosmetics carrier materials are solid or liquid at 25°C and 1013 mbar (including highly viscous substances) as for example glycerol, 1 ,2-propylene glycol, 1 ,2-butylene glycol, 1 ,3-propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, ethanol, water and mixtures of two or more of said liquid carrier materials with water. Optionally, the compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention may be produced using preservatives or solubilizers. Other preferred liquid carrier substances, which may be a component of a composition or cosmetic products according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of oils such as vegetable oil, neutral oil and mineral oil. Preferred solid carrier materials, which may be a component of a composition or cosmetic product according to the invention are hydrocolloids, such as starches, degraded starches, chemically or physically modified starches, dextrins, (powdery) maltodextrins (preferably with a dextrose equivalent value of 5 to 25, preferably of 10 - 20), lactose, silicon dioxide, glucose, modified celluloses, gum arabic, ghatti gum, traganth, karaya, carrageenan, pullulan, curdlan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar flour, carob bean flour, alginates, agar, pectin and inulin and mixtures of two or more of these solids, in particular maltodextrins (preferably with a dextrose equivalent value of 15 - 20), lactose, silicon dioxide and/or glucose.

In addition, hydrotropes, for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols, may be used to improve flow behaviour. Suitable polyols preferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols may contain other functional groups, more especially amino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

• glycerol;

• alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 Dalton;

• technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as for example technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

• methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol ethane, trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

• lower alkyl glucosides, particularly those containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl glucoside;

• sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example sorbitol or mannitol,

• sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or sucrose;

• amino sugars, for example glucamine;

• dialcoholamines, such as diethanolamine or 2-aminopropane-1 ,3-diol.

PRESERVATIVES

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Kosmetikverordnung ("Cosmetics Directive"). PERFUME OILS AND FRAGRANCES

The compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention may also contain suitable perfume oils, i.e. mixtures of natural and/or synthetic perfumes. Natural perfumes include the extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, for example civet and beaver, may also be used. Typical synthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of perfume compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert.butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketones are the ionones, oisomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols are anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. The hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures of different perfume compounds which, together, produce an agreeable perfume. Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils of relatively low volatility which are mostly used as aroma components. Examples are sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The following are preferably used either individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavendin oil, clary oil, damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillat, irotyl and floramat. DYES

Suitable dyes that may be contained in the compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention are any of the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes as listed, for example, in the publication "Kosmetische Farbemittel" of the Farbstoff- kommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 81 to 106. Examples include cochineal red A (C.I. 16255), patent blue V (C.I. 42051 ), indigotin (C.I. 73015), chlorophyllin (C.I. 75810), quinoline yellow (C.I. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.I. 77891 ), indanthrene blue RS (C.I. 69800) and madder lake (C.I. 58000). Luminol may also be present as a luminescent dye. Advantageous colored pigments are for example titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g. Fe₂0₃ Fe₃0₄, FeO(OH)) and/or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are for example carmine, Berlin blue, chromium oxide green, ultramarine blue and/or manganese violet.

The auxiliary substances and additives described above may be included in the compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention in quantities of up to 99 wt.-% (cosmetic products) or up to 90 wt.-% (compositions), preferably 5 to 99 wt.-% (cosmetic products) or 5 to 80 wt.-% (compositions), more preferably 10 to 80 wt.-% (cosmetic products) or 10 to 60 wt.-% (compositions), based on the total weight of the composition or cosmetic product. The amounts of cosmetic or dermatological auxiliary agents and additives and perfume to be used in each case can easily be determined by the person skilled in the art by simple trial and error, depending on the nature of the particular product.

The compositions or cosmetic products according to the invention can also contain water in a quantity of up to 99 wt.-% (cosmetic products) or up to 90 wt.-% (compositions), preferably 5 to 80 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition or cosmetic product.

A preferred embodiment according to the invention is a cosmetic product as described above, wherein the composition as described above is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 50 wt.-%, preferably 0.01 to 10 wt.-%, preferably of 0.1 to 5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

Another aspect of the present invention relates to the use of a composition consisting of or comprising one or more natural plant butter(s) and/or natural plant oil(s), preferably two, three, four, five or more different natural plant butter(s) and/or natural plant oil(s), more preferably to the use of a composition as described above or a cosmetic product as described above, for influencing or modifying human hair.

Preferred natural plant butters for the use according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of murumuru butter, cupuagu butter, shea butter and cacao butter.

Preferred natural plant oils for the use according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of andiroba oil, Brazilian nut oil, passion fruit oil, buriti oil, argan oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, jojoba oil, macadamia oil and sunflower oil.

Another preferred embodiment according to the invention is a use as described herein, wherein the composition or cosmetic product is used to

(i) improve the combability of human hair and/or

(ii) protect human hair, preferably the cuticular and/or cortical layer of said hair, more preferably the keratin contained in the cortical layer of said hair, against physical and/or chemical and/or environmental damage, preferably by forming a protective film around said hair, preferably around the cuticular layer of said hair, by one, two or more or all of the components of said composition or cosmetic product and/or by reinforcing the cuticular and/or cortical structure of the hair, preferably by accumulation of one, two or more or all of the components of said composition or cosmetic product inside the hair, preferably inside the cuticular and/or cortical layer of said hair, and/or

(iii) reduce the physical and/or chemical and/or environmental damage, if present, of human hair, preferably of the cuticular and/or cortical layer of said hair, preferably by accumulation of one, two or more or all of the components of said composition or cosmetic product inside the hair, preferably inside the cuticular and/or cortical layer of said hair.

During the studies underlying the present invention, it was found that the fatty acids and emollients contained in the composition or cosmetic product according to the invention advantageously penetrate into the cuticular and/or cortical section of the hair and also form a protective film around the outside of the hair fiber. Physical and/or chemical and/or environmental damage that was inflicted on the hair fiber in the past is thus repaired or reduced and the hair is reinforced and protected from future physical and/or chemical and/or environmental damages (cf. Example section for further details).

Another preferred embodiment according to the invention is a use as described above, wherein one, two or more or all of the components of said composition or cosmetic product accumulate(s) inside the human hair, more preferably inside the cuticular and/or cortical layer of said hair, to reduce, preferably to synergistically reduce, physical and/or chemical and/or environmental damage, if present, of said hair, preferably of the cuticular layer and/or cortical of said hair, preferably wherein the composition is a composition as described above or the cosmetic product is a cosmetic product as described above and wherein the weight ratio of cacao butter to cupuagu butter is 3 : 1 to 1 : 3, preferably 2 : 1 to 1 : 2, most preferably is 1 : 1.

During the studies underlying the present invention, it was interestingly found that the components of a cosmetic product according to the invention, wherein the weight ratio of cacao butter to cupuagu butter is 1 : 1 , penetrate into the cuticular and/or cortical section of the hair and/or form a protective film around the outside of the hair fiber particularly well. Said cosmetic products were thus particularly efficient in repairing damaged hair and/or protecting the hair from future damage. It was shown that a weight ratio of cacao butter to cupuagu butter of 1 : 1 in the cosmetic product according to the invention is particularly advantageous and that particularly at this ratio the cacao butter and cupuagu butter synergistically enhance each others positive effects in terms of reducing the damage that was inflicted to sample hair tresses by means of chemical bleaching (cf. section "Synergistic effect" further below for details). Another preferred embodiment according to the invention is a use as described herein, particularly in alternative (ii) or (iii) described above, wherein the physical damage will originate or originated from combing, drying, heating, curling or straightening the hair, or the use of retaining means such as hair clips, hair curlers or hair ties and/or the chemical damage will originate or originated from hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, hair treatment cures, hair tonics, hair lotions, hair rinses, styling creams, hair setting compositions, styling aids, blonding compositions or hair colouring compositions and/or the environmental damage will originate or originated from exposure to sun, industrial pollution, sea water or chlorinated water. Another aspect of the present invention relates to a method for influencing or modifying human hair, preferably a method for

(i) improving the combability of human hair and/or

(ii) protecting human hair, preferably the cuticular and/or cortical layer of said hair, more preferably the keratin contained in the cortical layer of said hair, against physical and/or chemical and/or environmental damage, and/or

(iii) reducing the physical and/or chemical and/or environmental damage, if present, of human hair, preferably of the cuticular and/or cortical layer of said hair, comprising or consisting of the following steps: a) Providing a composition as described herein or a cosmetic product as described herein, b) applying the composition or cosmetic product of step a) to the human hair, preferably to form a protective film around said hair, preferably around the cuticular layer of said hair, by one, two or more or all of the components of said composition or cosmetic product and/or to reinforce the cuticular and/or cortical structure of the hair, preferably by accumulation of one, two or more or all of the components of said composition or cosmetic product inside the hair, preferably inside the cuticular and/or cortical layer of said hair, c) optionally rinsing the human hair to remove parts or all of the composition or cosmetic product from the human hair, d) optionally repeating steps a) to c), if present, one, two, three, four, five or more times, e) optionally drying the human hair.

Depending on the kind of cosmetic product used, the method steps described above may vary. A rinse-off product, for instance, requires carrying out step c), while a leave-on product does not require any rinsing. If necessary, the application of the composition or cosmetic product of step a) (and the optional subsequent rinsing step, if required) may be repeated multiple times to ensure a good result.

Another preferred embodiment according to the invention is a method as described herein, wherein the weight ratio of cacao butter to cupuagu butter in the composition or cosmetic product is 3 : 1 to 1 : 3, preferably 2 : 1 to 1 : 2, most preferably is 1 : 1.

As described above, particularly a weight ratio of cacao butter to cupuagu butter of 1 : 1 in the composition or cosmetic product ensures superior results in terms of protecting the human hair from future damage and/or reducing physical and/or chemical and/or environmental damage that has occurred in the past.

Another preferred embodiment according to the invention is a method as described herein, wherein the physical damage will originate or originated from combing, drying, heating, curling or straightening the hair, or the use of retaining means such as hair clips, hair curlers or hair ties and/or the chemical damage will originate or originated from hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, hair treatment cures, hair tonics, hair lotions, hair rinses, styling creams, hair setting compositions, styling aids, blonding compositions or hair colouring compositions and/or the environmental damage will originate or originated from exposure to sun, industrial pollution, sea water or chlorinated water.

According to a further aspect, the present invention relates to a method for obtaining a composition or cosmetic product suitable for influencing or modifying human hair, preferably suitable for

(i) improving the combability of human hair and/or

(iii) reducing the physical and/or chemical and/or environmental damage, if present, of human hair, preferably of the cuticular and/or cortical layer of said hair, preferably for obtaining a composition as described above or a cosmetic product as described above, comprising or consisting of the following steps: a) Providing cacao butter and cupuagu butter and, optionally, one or more further natural plant butter(s) and/or one or more natural plant oil(s), b) optionally, providing one or more further auxiliaries and/or additives from the group consisting of water, antidandruff agents, irritation-preventing agents, irritation- inhibiting agents, antioxidants, astringents, antiseptic agents, anti-statics, binders, buffers, carrier materials, chelating agents, cell stimulants, cleansing agents, care agents, softeners, emulsifiers, enzymes, essential oils, fibres, film-forming agents, fixatives, foam-forming agents, foam stabilizers, substances for preventing foaming, foam boosters, gelling agents, gel-forming agents, hair care agents, hair- setting agents, hair-straightening agents, moisture-donating agents, moisturizing substances, moisture-retaining substances, bleaching agents, strengthening agents, optically brightening agents, gloss agents, polymers, powders, proteins, re- oiling agents, silicones, hair promotion agents, cooling agents, skin-cooling agents, warming agents, skin-warming agents, stabilizers, UV-absorbing agents, UV filters, detergents, thickeners, vitamins, oils, waxes, fats, phospholipids, saturated fatty acids, mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acids, ohydroxy acids, polyhydroxyfatty acids, liquefiers, dyestuffs, color-protecting agents, pigments, odoriferous substances, polyols, surfactants, electrolytes, organic solvents and silicone derivatives, c) mixing the natural plant butters and, if applicable, the natural plant oil(s) of step a), and optionally the further auxiliaries and/or additives of step b), if applicable, preferably such that the weight ratio of cacao butter to cupuagu butter is 9 : 1 to 1 : 9, preferably 5 : 1 to 1 : 5, more preferably 3 : 1 to 1 : 3, more preferably 2 : 1 to 1 : 2, most preferably 1 : 1 , and such that the composition contains 10 to 90 wt.-%, preferably 20 to 80 wt.-%, more preferably 40 to 60 wt.-% of cacao butter and/or 10 to 90 wt.-%, preferably 20 to 80 wt.-%, more preferably 40 to 60 wt.-% of cupuagu butter, based on the total weight of the composition, and the cosmetic product, if applicable, contains said composition in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt.-%, preferably of 0.1 to 5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

Preferably the one or more further natural plant butter(s) and/or one or more natural plant oil(s) are selected from the group consisting of murumuru butter, shea butter, andiroba oil, Brazilian nut oil, passion fruit oil, buriti oil, argan oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, jojoba oil, macadamia oil and sunflower oil.

Another preferred embodiment according to the invention is a method as described herein, wherein the cosmetic product is a hair care or personal care product, more preferably is a shampoo (including anti-dandruff shampoo, baby shampoo, shampoo for dry scalps, concentrated shampoo, dry formulation of a shampoo), conditioner, preferably leave-on or leave-in conditioner (or a dry formulation of a conditioner or derivative thereof), 2-in-1 product (comprising shampoo and conditioner), tip repairing product, hair treatment cure, hair tonic, hair lotion, hair rinse, styling cream, hair setting composition, preferably formulated as gel, mousse or spray, styling aid, blonding composition or hair coloring composition, most preferably is a shampoo, conditioner, preferably leave-on or leave-in conditioner, or 2-in-1 product.

Preferred embodiments of the compositions according to the invention correspond to or can be derived from the preferred embodiments of the cosmetic products, uses or methods according to the invention, which are explained above, or vice versa. Preferred embodiments of the cosmetic products according to the invention correspond to or can be derived from the preferred embodiments of the compositions, uses or methods according to the invention, which are explained above, or vice versa. Preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention correspond to or can be derived from the preferred embodiments of the compositions, cosmetic products or methods according to the invention, which are explained above, or vice versa. Preferred embodiments of the methods according to the invention correspond to or can be derived from the preferred embodiments of the compositions, cosmetic products or methods according to the invention, which are explained above, or vice versa.

The invention will now be described in more detail hereinafter with references to the examples. EXAMPLES Formulation examples

1) Shampoo (amounts in wt.-%)

2) 2-in-1 -Shampoo (amounts in wt.-%)

Ingredients INCI Name Amount

Deionized water Water Ad 100

Sodium Laureth Sulfate. Lauryl

Plantacare PS 10 20.0

Glucoside

Glycol Distearate. Sodium Lauryl

Euperlan PK 771 6.0

Sulfate. Cocamide MEA. Laureth-10

Sodium chloride Sodium Chloride 1.4

Citric acid monohydrate crystalline Citric acid 0.1

Perfume oil Fragrance 0.5

Dragocid Liquid Phenoxyethanol, Parabens 0.5

Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed

cacao butter/cupuagu butter

Butter, Theobroma Grandiflorum 1.5 (weight ratio 1 : 1 )

Seed Butter ) Anti-dandruff Shampoo (amounts in wt.-%)

) Hair conditioner with Crinipan, rinse-off (amounts in wt.-%)

Ingredients INCI Name Amount

Lanette® O Cetearyl Alcohol 4.00

Dragoxat 89 Ethylhexyl Isononanoate 2.00

Genamin® KDM-P Behentrimonium Chloride 1.00

SF 1550 Phenyl Trimethicone 0.10

Neo Heliopan® BB Benzophenone-3 0.10

Crinipan® AD Climbazole 0.80

Glycerol 99.5 P. Glycerol 6.00

Water Water (Aqua) Ad 100 Actipone® Alpha Pulp Water (Aqua). Butylene Glycol. Malic 0.50 Acid. Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi)Fruit

Juice. Citrus. Aurantium Dulcis

(Orange). Juice. Citrus Paradisi

(Grapefruit) Juice. Pyrus Malus (Apple)

Juice. Trideceth-9. PrunusAmygdalus

Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Extract

Extrapone® Bamboo P Propylene Glycol. Water (Aqua). 0.50

Butylene Glycol. Bambusa Vulgaris

Shoot Extract

Sodium Hydroxide 10% Sodium Hydroxide 0.40 solution

Colour I Colour 0.60

Colour II Colour 0.30

Perfume oil Fragrance 0.40

Preservative Methylparaben 0.20 cacao butter/cupuagu butter (weight ratio 1 : 1 ) 1.00 ) Sprayable hair conditioner with zinc pyrithrione, leave-on (amounts in wt.-%)

Ingredients IN CI Name Amount

Monomuls 60-35 C Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides 1.70

Cetiol OE Dicaprylyl Ether 7.20

Abil 100 Dimethicone 3.60

Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium.

Dehyquart F 75 4.00

Methosulfate. Cetearyl Alcohol

Eumulgin B1 Ceteareth-12 3.50

Cetiol S Diethylhexylcyclohe xane 7.20

D-Panthenol Panthenol 0.10 Glycerol 99.5 P. Glycerol 1.50

Water Water (Aqua) Ad 100

Water (Aqua). Propylene. Glycol.

Actipone® Rosemary Rosmarinus Officinalis. (Rosemary) Leaf 0.10

Extract

Frescolat® ML Cryst. Menthyl Lactate 0.50

DragosantoM OO Bisabolol 0.10

Zinc Omadine Zinc pyrithione 0.10

Perfume oil Fragrance 0.40 phenoxyethanol. methylparaben.

Phenonip® ethylparaben. butylparaben. 0.30 propylparaben, isobutylparaben

cacao butter/cupuagu butter Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter,

1.00 (weight ratio 1 : 1 ) Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter ) Hair conditioner with UV protection (amounts in wt.-%)

Ingredients INCI Name Amount

Renex PEG 6000 PEG-150 2.50

Hair Conditioner Base Cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride. 3.00

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) bran extract,

linoleic acid

PCL-Solid Stearyl heptanoate. stearyl caprylate 0.50

Dow Corning 5200 Laurylmethicone copolyol 0.50

Natrosol 250 HR Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.50

Benzophenone-4 Benzophenone-4 1.00

Neo Heliopan AP Disodiumphenyldibenz-imidazole 1.00 tetrasulphonate

Amino methyl propanol Amino methyl propanol 2.00 Dow Corning 949 cationic Amodimethicone. cetrimonium chloride. 2.00 emulsion trideceth-12

Perfume oil Fragrance 0.80

1.2-hexanediol 1.2-hexanediol 0.50 cacao butter/cupuagu butter (weight ratio 1 : 1 ) 1.00

Water Water (Aqua) Ad 100

Test results Combability test The hair combability test measures the force required for a comb to pass through a hair tress.

The parameter measured is:

• Total work: the total energy required during the whole combing process (Joules)

Since the hair surface characteristics are dependent on the cuticle/comb interaction, hair in wet or dry situations can change values in the measurements.

Five Caucasian bleached hair tresses (5 g, 20 cm) were cleaned with Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate (SLES) 10% solution for 1 minute. Then exemplary formulations of the present invention were applied five times in each tress (0.5 mL of formulation + massaging for 1 minute, followed by 1 minute of rinsing at running water at 30 °C, leave- on conditioner was not rinsed), respectively. Test in wet condition was performed. Tresses were then cleaned and test products were applied again in order to avoid variation in the amount of test product for the dry condition test. Tresses were left at controlled environment (22 °C, ± 2 °C; 50% relative humidity (RH), ± 5%) overnight for drying. Test in dry condition was performed. The energy involved in the combing process was extracted from each measurement. Comparisons among the tests were performed, using analysis of variance, with post test of Tukey, considering 95% confidence interval. Figure 1 shows the test results for an exemplary shampoo formulation according to the invention (comprising 0.5 wt.-% of cacao butter/cupuagu butter (weight ratio 1 : 1 )). As can be taken from the graph, the improvement in combability compared to placebo in dry hair was 29% (left). The improvement in combability compared to placebo in wet hair was 15% (right).

Figure 2 shows the test results for an exemplary 2-in-1 product according to the invention (shampoo + conditioner, comprising 1.5 wt.-% of cacao butter/cupuagu butter (weight ratio 1 : 1 )). As can be taken from the graph, the improvement in combability compared to placebo in dry hair was 30%. Figure 3 shows the test results for an exemplary conditioner according to the invention (leave-on, comprising 1.0 wt.-% of cacao butter/cupuagu butter (weight ratio 1 : 1 )). As can be taken from the graph, the improvement in combability compared to placebo in dry hair was 13% (left). The improvement in combability compared to placebo in wet hair was 18% (right).

Differential scanning calorimetry analysis (keratin protection potential)

Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) analysis measures the enthalpy (variation in energy) of a given system. The amount of energy is dependent on the amount and quality of the keratin in the hair. The enthalpy values are proportional to the amount of keratin in the hair.

Three Caucasian virgin hair tresses (5 g, 20 cm) were cleaned with SLES 10% solution for 1 minute. Then an exemplary formulation of the present invention was applied five times in each tress (0.5 mL of formulation + massaging for 1 minute, followed by 1 minute of rinsing at running water at 30 °C). The tresses were submitted to a chemical process of bleaching (30 minutes, 45°C), were then cleaned and the DSC stainless steel capsules were mounted (5mg of hair and 20uL of water). DSC analysis was performed. The enthalpy of the systems was measured. Comparisons among the treatments were performed, using analysis of variance, with post test of Tukey, considering 95% confidence interval.

Figure 4 shows the test results for an exemplary 2-in-1 product according to the invention (shampoo + conditioner, comprising 1.5 wt.-% of cacao butter/cupuagu butter (weight ratio 1 : 1 )). As can be taken from the graph, the energy required for keratin degradation (in J/g) is significantly higher for the hair tresses treated with the exemplary 2-in-1 product according to the invention (left), i.e. the exemplary 2-in-1 product according to the invention was able to efficiently protect the keratin of the hair tresses during the bleaching process. The keratin protection of said formulation was 81 % (right).

Fluorescence microscopy analysis

Rhodamine B is a cationic fluorescent dye and presents affinity with damaged regions of the hair. It reacts with the negative sites of damaged hair. A fluorescent complex is formed in the damaged regions of the hair fiber and can be detected by means of fluorescence microscopy. After capturing images in the microscope, the intensity of luminance in the images is quantified by image analysis.

The parameter measured is luminance intensity as expression of damage. Treatments of the hair that generate less fluorescent images express the effect of penetration of the formulations (cosmetic products according to the invention) into the hair fiber and/or of the formation of a protective film around the hair fiber and thus are an adequate measure of the hair damage repairing action of the formulations.

Three Caucasian bleached hair tresses (5 g, 20 cm) were cleaned with SLES 10% solution for 1 minute. Then exemplary formulations of the present invention were applied five times in each tress (0.5 mL of formulation + massaging for 1 minute, followed by 1 minute of rinsing at running water at 30 °C, leave-on conditioner was not rinsed), respectively. Tresses were left at controlled environment (22 °C, ± 2 °C; 50% RH, ± 5%) overnight for drying. Some hair fibers from each treatment were soaked in Rhodamine B solution (10 mg/mL) for 30 minutes, followed by rinsing with deionized water for 1 minute and drying at 45 °C for 15 minutes. The hair fibers were embedded in an acrylic resin. Sectional 10 μιτι cuts were made using a microtome. Fluorescence microscopy analysis was performed, followed by image analysis of the captured pictures to measure the fluorescence intensity as expression of the level of damage. Comparisons among the treatments were performed, using analysis of variance, with post test of Tukey, considering 95% confidence interval.

Figure 5 shows the intensity of fluorescence as expression of damage after treatment with an exemplary shampoo formulation according to the invention (comprising 0.5 wt.-% of cacao butter/cupuagu butter (weight ratio 1 : 1 )). As can be taken from the graph, the fluorescence detected and thus the damage of the hair fibers of the bleached hair tresses was significantly reduced after treatment (left). On the right side of the graph, it is shown that the penetration into the hair of the exemplary shampoo formulation according to the invention (comprising 0.5 wt.-% of cacao butter/cupuagu butter (weight ratio 1 : 1 )) compared to placebo is 40% higher.

Figure 6 shows the intensity of fluorescence as expression of damage after treatment with an exemplary 2-in-1 product according to the invention (shampoo + conditioner, comprising 1.5 wt.-% of cacao butter/cupuagu butter (weight ratio 1 : 1 )). As can be taken from the graph, the fluorescence detected and thus the damage of the hair fibers of the bleached hair tresses was significantly reduced after treatment (left). On the right side of the graph, it is shown that the penetration into the hair of the exemplary 2-in-1 formulation according to the invention (comprising 1.5 wt.-% of cacao butter/cupuagu butter (weight ratio 1 : 1 )) compared to placebo is 59% higher. Figure 7 shows the intensity of fluorescence as expression of damage after treatment with an exemplary conditioner according to the invention (leave-on, comprising 1.0 wt.-% of cacao butter/cupuagu butter (weight ratio 1 : 1 )). As can be taken from the graph, the fluorescence detected and thus the damage of the hair fibers of the bleached hair tresses was significantly reduced after treatment (left). On the right side of the graph, it is shown that the penetration into the hair of the exemplary conditioner formulation according to the invention (comprising 1.0 wt.-% of cacao butter/cupuagu butter (weight ratio 1 : 1 )) compared to placebo is 17% higher.

Synergistic effect

In order to investigate a potential synergistic effect between the components of the cosmetic products according to the invention, further fluorescence microscopy evaluation was performed. Therefore, an exemplary conditioner comprising 1.0 wt.-% of cacao butter, an exemplary conditioner comprising 1.0 wt.-% of cupuagu butter, and an exemplary conditioner comprising 1.0 wt.-% of cacao butter/cupuagu butter (weight ratio 1 : 1 ) were prepared. The three different conditioners were used to treat bleached hair tresses as described under the preceding section "Fluorescence microscopy analysis" and the results were analyzed as described in the same section. Figure 8 shows the results of the fluorescence microscopy analysis. On the left side, it is shown that the reduction in fluorescence compared to the reference formulation (same composition as exemplary conditioner, but without cacao butter) was 8.37% for the hair tresses treated with an exemplary conditioner comprising 1.0 wt.-% of cacao butter. In the middle of the graph, it is shown that the detected fluorescence increased by 6.53% compared to the reference formulation (same composition as exemplary conditioner, but without cupuagu butter) for the hair tresses treated with an exemplary conditioner comprising 1.0 wt.-% of cupuagu butter. On the right side, it is shown that the reduction in fluorescence compared to the reference formulation (same composition as exemplary conditioner, but without cacao butter/cupuagu butter) was 59.02% for the hair tresses treated with an exemplary conditioner comprising 1.0 wt.-% of cacao butter/cupuagu butter (weight ratio 1 : 1 ). The combination of the cacao butter and cupuagu butter, particularly at a weight ratio of 1 : 1 , in the cosmetic products according to the invention thus surprisingly shows a pronounced synergistic effect in terms of penetration of the formulations into the hair fiber and/or in terms of the formation of a protective film around the hair fiber. The cosmetic formulations according to the invention are thus particularly well suited for reducing physical and/or chemical and/or environmental damage of human hair.

Swelling test

Through diameter measurements, it is possible to determine the level of swelling of a fiber of hair over time when in contact with water. The laser measures the variation in the fiber diameter as it absorbs water over a pre-determined period of time. Depending on the fiber condition or the film covering its surface, the level of swelling may change. The more damaged the hair, the more hydrophilic it is and, consequently, more swelling is noticed since most of the hair damages take the lipids, ceramides and other hydrophobic substances away from the hair.

Parameter measured:

• Variation in hair diameter (%)

Three Caucasian bleached hair tresses (5 g, 20 cm) were cleaned with SLES 10% solution for 1 minute. Then an exemplary formulation of the present invention was applied five times in each tress (0.5 mL of formulation + massaging for 1 minute, followed by 1 minute of rinsing at running water at 30 °C). Tresses were left at controlled environment (22°C, ± 2°C; 50% RH, ± 5%) overnight for drying. 45 fibers from each treatment were collected randomly. They were fixed in plastic tabs one by one. Diameter measurements were executed and then the swelling test was performed. Comparisons among the treatments were performed, using analysis of variance, with post test of Tukey, considering 95% confidence interval.

Figure 9 shows the swelling as diameter variation after treatment with an exemplary 2-in- 1 product according to the invention (shampoo + conditioner, comprising 1.5 wt.-% of cacao butter/cupuagu butter (weight ratio 1 : 1 )). As can be taken from the graph, the swelling of the hair fibers after treatment with the 2-in-1 product according to the invention was significantly lower (left). This indicates that the bleached hair fibers were reinforced by the treatment. On the right side of the graph, the improvement in hair protection after treatment with the 2-in-1 product according to the invention (compared to placebo) is shown to be 83%.

Claims

Patent claims:

1. Composition consisting of or comprising cacao butter and cupuagu butter, wherein the weight ratio of cacao butter to cupuagu butter is 9 : 1 to 1 : 9, preferably 5 : 1 to 1 : 5, more preferably 3 : 1 to 1 : 3, more preferably is 2 : 1 to 1 : 2, most preferably 1 : 1 , and wherein the composition contains 10 to 90 wt.-%, preferably 20 to 80 wt.- %, more preferably 40 to 60 wt.-% of cacao butter and/or 10 to 90 wt.-%, preferably 20 to 80 wt.-%, more preferably 40 to 60 wt.-% of cupuagu butter, based on the total weight of the composition.

2. Cosmetic product, preferably hair care or personal care product, more preferably shampoo, conditioner, preferably leave-on or leave-in conditioner, 2-in-1 product, tip repairing product, hair treatment cure, hair tonic, hair lotion, hair rinse, styling cream, hair setting composition, preferably formulated as gel, mousse or spray, styling aid, blonding composition or hair coloring composition, most preferably shampoo, conditioner, preferably leave-on or leave-in conditioner, or 2-in-1 product, comprising or consisting of a composition according to claim 1.

3. Cosmetic product according to claim 2, wherein the composition according to claim 1 is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 50 wt.-%, preferably 0.01 to 10 wt.-%, preferably of 0.1 to 5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

4. Use of a composition consisting of or comprising one or more natural plant butter(s) and/or natural plant oil(s), preferably two, three, four, five or more different natural plant butter(s) and/or natural plant oil(s), more preferably use of a composition as defined in claim 1 or a cosmetic product as defined in claim 2 or 3, for influencing or modifying human hair.

5. Use according to claim 4, wherein the composition or cosmetic product is used to

(i) improve the combability of human hair and/or

6. Use according to claim 4 or 5, wherein one, two or more or all of the components of said composition or cosmetic product accumulate(s) inside the human hair, more preferably inside the cuticular and/or cortical layer of said hair, to reduce, preferably to synergistically reduce, physical and/or chemical and/or environmental damage, if present, of said hair, preferably of the cuticular layer and/or cortical of said hair, preferably wherein the composition is a composition as defined in claim 1 or the cosmetic product is a cosmetic product as defined in claim 2 or 3 and wherein the weight ratio of cacao butter to cupuagu butter is 3 : 1 to 1 : 3, preferably 2 : 1 to 1 : 2, most preferably is 1 : 1.

7. Use according to claim 5, alternative (ii) or (iii), or claim 6, wherein the physical damage will originate or originated from combing, drying, heating, curling or straightening the hair, or the use of retaining means such as hair clips, hair curlers or hair ties and/or the chemical damage will originate or originated from hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, hair treatment cures, hair tonics, hair lotions, hair rinses, styling creams, hair setting compositions, styling aids, blonding compositions or hair colouring compositions and/or the environmental damage will originate or originated from exposure to sun, industrial pollution, sea water or chlorinated water.

8. Method for influencing or modifying human hair, preferably method for (i) improving the combability of human hair and/or (ii) protecting human hair, preferably the cuticular and/or cortical layer of said hair, more preferably the keratin contained in the cortical layer of said hair, against physical and/or chemical and/or environmental damage, and/or

(iii) reducing the physical and/or chemical and/or environmental damage, if present, of human hair, preferably of the cuticular and/or cortical layer of said hair, comprising or consisting of the following steps: a) Providing a composition as defined in claim 1 or a cosmetic product as defined in claim 2 or 3, b) applying the composition or cosmetic product of step a) to the human hair, preferably to form a protective film around said hair, preferably around the cuticular layer of said hair, by one, two or more or all of the components of said composition or cosmetic product and/or to reinforce the cuticular and/or cortical structure of the hair, preferably by accumulation of one, two or more or all of the components of said composition or cosmetic product inside the hair, preferably inside the cuticular and/or cortical layer of said hair, c) optionally rinsing the human hair to remove parts or all of the composition or cosmetic product from the human hair, d) optionally repeating steps a) to c), if present, one, two, three, four, five or more times, e) optionally drying the human hair.

9. Method according to claim 8, wherein the weight ratio of cacao butter to cupuagu butter in the composition or cosmetic product is 3 : 1 to 1 : 3, preferably 2 : 1 to 1 : 2, most preferably is 1 : 1.

10. Method according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the physical damage will originate or originated from combing, drying, heating, curling or straightening the hair, or the use of retaining means such as hair clips, hair curlers or hair ties and/or the chemical damage will originate or originated from hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, hair treatment cures, hair tonics, hair lotions, hair rinses, styling creams, hair setting compositions, styling aids, blonding compositions or hair colouring compositions and/or the environmental damage will originate or originated from exposure to sun, industrial pollution, sea water or chlorinated water. 1. Method for obtaining a composition or cosmetic product suitable for influencing or modifying human hair, preferably suitable for

(i) improving the combability of human hair and/or

(iii) reducing the physical and/or chemical and/or environmental damage, if present, of human hair, preferably of the cuticular and/or cortical layer of said hair, preferably for obtaining a composition according to claim 1 or a cosmetic product according to claim 2 or 3, comprising or consisting of the following steps: a) Providing cacao butter and cupuagu butter and, optionally, one or more further natural plant butter(s) and/or one or more natural plant oil(s), b) optionally, providing one or more further auxiliaries and/or additives from the group consisting of water, antidandruff agents, irritation-preventing agents, irritation-inhibiting agents, antioxidants, astringents, antiseptic agents, antistatics, binders, buffers, carrier materials, chelating agents, cell stimulants, cleansing agents, care agents, softeners, emulsifiers, enzymes, essential oils, fibres, film-forming agents, fixatives, foam-forming agents, foam stabilizers, substances for preventing foaming, foam boosters, gelling agents, gel-forming agents, hair care agents, hair-setting agents, hair- straightening agents, moisture-donating agents, moisturizing substances, moisture-retaining substances, bleaching agents, strengthening agents, optically brightening agents, gloss agents, polymers, powders, proteins, re- oiling agents, silicones, hair promotion agents, cooling agents, skin-cooling agents, warming agents, skin-warming agents, stabilizers, UV-absorbing agents, UV filters, detergents, thickeners, vitamins, oils, waxes, fats, phospholipids, saturated fatty acids, mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acids, o hydroxy acids, polyhydroxyfatty acids, liquefiers, dyestuffs, color-protecting agents, pigments, odoriferous substances, polyols, surfactants, electrolytes, organic solvents and silicone derivatives, c) mixing the natural plant butters and, if applicable, the natural plant oil(s) of step a), and optionally the further auxiliaries and/or additives of step b), if applicable, preferably such that the weight ratio of cacao butter to cupuagu butter is 9 : 1 to 1 : 9, preferably 5 : 1 to 1 : 5, more preferably 3 : 1 to 1 : 3, more preferably 2 : 1 to 1 : 2, most preferably 1 : 1 , and such that the composition contains 10 to 90 wt.-%, preferably 20 to 80 wt.-%, more preferably 40 to 60 wt.-% of cacao butter and/or 10 to 90 wt.-%, preferably 20 to 80 wt.-%, more preferably 40 to 60 wt.-% of cupuagu butter, based on the total weight of the composition, and the cosmetic product, if applicable, contains said composition in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt.-%, preferably of 0.1 to 5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

Method according to claim 1 1 , wherein the cosmetic product is a hair care or personal care product, more preferably is a shampoo, conditioner, preferably leave-on or leave-in conditioner, 2-in-1 product, tip repairing product, hair treatment cure, hair tonic, hair lotion, hair rinse, styling cream, hair setting composition, preferably formulated as gel, mousse or spray, styling aid, blonding composition or hair coloring composition, most preferably is a shampoo, conditioner, preferably leave-on or leave-in conditioner, or 2-in-1 product.