WO2018149896A1

WO2018149896A1 - Hair assessment system

Info

Publication number: WO2018149896A1
Application number: PCT/EP2018/053728
Authority: WO
Inventors: Abid IFTIKHAR; Robert Mckeown
Original assignee: Unilever Plc; Unilever N.V.; Conopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever
Priority date: 2017-02-20
Filing date: 2018-02-14
Publication date: 2018-08-23

Abstract

An assessment tool for assessing properties of hair, which comprises a magnified 3D skin of the hair surface on a backing material, wherein the 3D skin has a thickness of from 50 to 1000 microns.

Description

HAIR ASSESSMENT SYSTEM

Field of Invention

The present invention relates to an assessment tool for assessing properties of hair, a method of using the assessment tool to assess properties of hair and a method of making the assessment tool. Background and Prior Art

Methods of measuring properties of surfaces are described in the following prior art.

US 2003/0234650 discloses a comparator for surface finishes for the evaluation of SPI surface finishes with the turbine steam path. An embodiment comprises a small particle impingement comparator comprising a plurality of sample cells arranged side-by-side in ascending order of roughness from 1190 micro-inches to 6950 micro-inches.

Microsyst Tecnol (2011 ) 17: 1153-1160, describes a sensor system for the evaluation of hair, under dry and wet conditions. The sensor consists of an acrylic base, a silicone runner and a

polyvinylidene fluoride film. A surface projection is put on the PVDF film. It is used to measure a range of hair feel properties including roughness, slippery-smooth, smooth, squeak and moist.

Our co-pending patent application, PCT/EP2014/056104 discloses a self-assessment device comprising a series of rough patches of increasing roughness and which may be contacted by user and compared with the roughness of a hair sample in order to provide an indication to the user as to the relative state of the hair sample.

US2002/0140936 discloses a system comprising a plurality of comparison samples configured to substantially simulate the appearance of a keratinous element. Each comparison sample may be configured to substantially simulate both a colour and an appearance characteristic other than colour of the keratinous element.

KR 10-2008-0067433 discloses a known system for measuring damaged hair that involves objectively comparing an image of a damaged hair with an image of a healthy hair. Taking an image of a healthy hair fibre and aligning the image with an image of a damaged hair and comparing them (in an undisclosed way).

Our own co-pending patent application EP16159406.4 discloses a method of demonstrating the repair of hair as a result of a repair treatment using 3D modelling of hair fibres; and EP16159407.2 describes a method of analysing the effect of assaults, such as environmental conditions, mechanical assaults, chemical treatments, and every day hair care regimes on hair, and to a method of determining and applying a suitable treatment to the hair, using 3D images. Despite the prior art there remains a need for improved methods and devices that provide accurate yet simple means for assessing the state of hair fibres. Also, a need for further communication tools, and even more accessible information about the individual state of a person's hair.

We have now found that by implementing a 3D "skin", with a thickness of 50 to 1000 microns, into a device for the assessment of hair, a surprisingly advantageous device is enabled. For example, several representations of an individual's hair may be included on a single 3D skin, such as before, during and after treatment of an individual's hair with a hair treatment composition. In this way it is possible to demonstrate any surface improvement, such as "smoothing", arising from the application of the treatment to the hair. It also becomes possible to recommend a suitable product according to an individual's need. This enables accurate assessment of hair pertaining to several aspects, such as level of damage, type of damage and deposition of matter of the surface. The assessment achieved is more extensive and complete than other known assessments.

Definition of the invention

A first aspect of the invention provides an assessment tool for assessing properties of hair, which comprises a magnified 3D skin of the hair surface on a backing material, wherein the 3D skin has a thickness of from 50 to 1000 microns. A second aspect of the invention provides a method of providing an assessment tool according to the first aspect of the invention, comprising the steps of:

(i) collecting imaging data for at least one hair surface,

(ii) converting the imaging data collected at step (i) into a format to create magnified images from a 3D printer, (iii) producing a magnified 3D skin of the hair surface from a 3D printer using the data from step (ii),

(iv) applying the 3D skin to a backing material;

wherein the 3D skin has a thickness of from 50 to 1000 microns.

Steps (iii) and (iv) can be accomplished in one step, for example by direct printing onto a leaflet or by printing as a sticky label, which can then be applied to a backing material.

A third aspect of the invention provides a method of assessing properties of hair, comprising the steps of:

i) obtaining an assessment tool comprising a 3D skin of the first aspect

ii) analysing the 3D skin using visual analysis, tactile analysis or a combination thereof, and iii) comparing the results of step (ii) to properties of the hair. The properties of the hair of step (iii) may include aspects of an array of hair, such as a full head of hair, a mannequin head or a switch of hair, for example, overall feel, movement and shape.

The method of the invention may optionally comprise the further step of applying a treatment or assault to the hair surface and repeating steps (i) - (iii).

Images of hair in different states, for example before and after application of a hair treatment may be included on a single 3D skin.

The device preferably further comprises a scale. The scale may indicate the level of one or more properties of the hair surface, preferably properties related to hair damage, for example, cuticle lift. A comparison of the aspects shown on the 3D skin to the scale may be carried out in step (iii) of the method of assessing properties of hair.

The backing material

The backing material may be any suitable substrate, preferably selected from plastic, paper and card. The backing material is preferably flexible.

Preferably, a colour is applied to the 3D skin to highlight the areas of interest. The colours can be varied according to the surface height. This is useful in showing up areas of interest such as the topography of the hair surface such as the extent of cuticle lift and the depth of holes and wear; also deposits on the hair surface. The "Skin"

The skin used in the present invention is different from a rigid conventional model. In the field of 3D rendering, a virtual model is used to create the "skin". In the context of the present invention, the skin and the backing make the final 3D model of the hair. The skin is applied to a suitable backing surface, which results in an end product that is much more flexible in terms of use than a fully printed model and therefore has many more uses than 3D models typical of the prior art.

Herein, '3D skin' should be understood to mean as having a texture of built up of layers of varnish. Unlike a final 3D model, the skin (excluding any backing) is thin and flexible with a thickness of from 50 to 1000 microns, preferably from 75 to 750 microns most preferably from 100 to 350 microns .

The skin is preferably made of varnish. Preferably, the skin having the following properties can provide accurate, textile representation of the topographical aspect of hair surface, namely, reflecting the hair surface properties such as friction or roughness without false textures. The Elastic Stiffness of the skin is preferably from 0.1 to 10 μΝ/nm, more preferably from 1 to 5 μΝ/nm. The Elastic Modulus of the skin is preferably from 0.05 to 5GPa, more preferably from 0.5 to 1.5 GPa. The hardness of the skin is preferably from 0.001 GPa to 1 GPa, more preferably from 0.01 GPa to 0.1 GPa, which parameters are measured using a Hysitron Nano- Indenter. A berkovic pyramidal diamond probe with a tip radius of approximately 70nm and an internal angle of 142.7° is pushed into the surface of the skin. The probe is pushed in up to a maximum force of 500mN over a 10 second loading time. The probe is then withdrawn from the skin until the load reaches zero over a 10 second time scale. The measurements are based upon the 3^ (unloading) segment which is the elastic recovery.

This gives a device with real hair surface properties (friction, roughness) which is not simulated or mimicked and enables truly individualized information about an individual's hair. It may be printed directly onto a backing, for example a side of a bottle or packaging, for example to illustrate the effect of the product in the bottle on hair.

A preferred skin has a sticky back such that it may be peeled from a backing material and stuck onto a carrier surface. The skin is preferably printed onto the backing material by digital printing with UV inks for colouring. Texture is a built up of layers of varnish. Lithographic UV cure varnishes are the preferred material for producing 3D skin, for example, SunCure^® UV Litho Varnishes from SunChemical^® UK. A suitable process of making the skin is as follows:-

- Data is collected, including X, Y and Z co-ordinates.

- The data is then manipulated to produce the skin using CAD software. A suitable file format is *.STL

- The STL file is then manipulated using the following steps in order to facilitate the printing process.

- The file is converted into PDF format, which is a graphic printable file.

- The PDF is imported into printer specific software, for example, RIP software.

- Layers are built up as an in-silico mask, based on the Z data oriented at the X,Y coordinates.

- From this mask a "flat" colour background is printed.

- Onto this colour background is printed varnish in layers -each layer being cured with a U.V. light source.

- The layers are built up until the maximum height is reached. The image

The data used in generating the skin is captured by using a 3D optical profiler, such as a Sensofar S neox, or laser profilometer.

The topographic surface of the hair is converted into a format suitable for a 3D printer, preferably it is exported in a digital file as spatial coordinates (X, Y, Z) of each point which describes the topographic (3D) surface. Preferably, this is completed using a profilometer. An example of a suitable profilometer is the Sensofar S neox profilometer that can produce a 3d image of the surface to be studied. The profilometer software, for example sensoSCAN v5, can export a file ".dat" that is a list of all the X, Y, Z coordinates of each point.

Preferably, the magnified 3D image for use in the skin has a magnification of from 100 to 50,000, preferably 10,000 times. If desired the conversion of the imaging data iv) comprises a magnification process. The magnification is preferably achieved by change of resolution, units and/or rescale of coordinate axis, producing a new digital file with the new spatial coordinates. A preferred way of magnifying the data points is using Matlab. In this preferred method the ".dat" file is imported in Matlab as a matrix and a set of Matlab scripts are used to manipulate the matrix and change the resolution/scale. It is highly preferred if the matrix is exported into a new ASCII file ".XYZ" as a list of all the X, Y, Z coordinates of each point.

The imaging data is converted into an image suitable for a 3D printer. Preferably, the file is imported in a 3D-CAD software and the 3D surface is applied onto a face of a parallelogram to obtain a 3D object. The resulting 3D image is exported to a digital file compatible with the 3D-printer device software. The XYZ file is preferably imported into a software conversion package, for example the "Rhino" software package, which can convert it into a 3d file and export as a .STL file. The 3D image is printed to form a skin. This can be achieved by using a modem 3D printer, such as a Flatbed proofing press available from The Logan Press. Primer Ink with UV varnishes are commercially available and may be used with appropriate inkjet printers.

Analysing the 3D skin

Properties that may be seen in the 3D skin are external topographical aspects of the hair fibre, for example, cuticle lift, cuticle damage (for example, chipping, splitting, change in shape and breaking), cuticle erosion, split ends, kinks, blobs, cracks, holes and knots. The extent to which these are present at the initial imaging stage (i) depends on the age and condition of the hair at the beginning of the method.

Different benefit agents are deposited onto hair surfaces in different ways and the nature of the deposition can affect the benefit perceived by the consumer. For example, deposition may occur in layers or as discrete particles, and at different locations on the hair surface.

Examples of benefit agents that may be deposited onto hair surfaces include hair conditioning agents such as silicones, lipids and oils; styling polymers; waxes, sunscreens, bodyfying agents and mixtures thereof. A preferred silicone is DC5-7134 (ex Dow Corning). A preferred styling polymer is PSA Acudyne MD5800 (ex Dow Corning).

Consumer perceivable effects are any changes, perceived by the consumer, as a result of the treatment with the benefit agent, including for example, changes to the perception of damage, the perception of protection or the perception of repairing. These can be perceived by properties such as rough feel, smoothness and friction, by rubbing the finger on the surface of a 3D skin produced before and after treatment. It is possible to recommend a suitable product according to an individual's need, that targets the properties of the hair.

The method of the invention may be used in an educational tool, in communication with press, media or trade, at point of sale, in professional environments such as salons, and in commercial material, advertisement material and promotional material.

The assessment tool

The assessment tool may be the form of packaging, promotional or educational leaflet, an adhesive carrier, preferably a conditioner bottle, a sticky label, a card, a leaflet and a cylindrical substrate. For example the assessment tool may be a package comprising the product of the first aspect on an outer surface of the package, or it may be a leaflet carrying the product of the second aspect of the invention in the form of a sticky label. The assessment tool preferably comprises written instructions and/or comparative scales for analysis. It may further include a hair characterization process and/or recommendation of products. Comparative scales, for example, relating cuticle lift on the 3D skin to level of damage and correlations to suitable products are preferred features. In a preferred embodiment the assessment tool is a leaflet, preferably comprising folding leaves.

Such a leaflet brings to life the hair in the context of treatments and enables the individual to analyse their own hair and see how it is affected by the factors that are most relevant to them. The leaflet comprises a 3D skin that preferably shows, for example, damaged hair, healthy hair and conditioned healthy/damaged hair, on the same skin. The skin may also or alternatively show deposition of materials from products and/or the effects of environmental factors such as sunlight. The invention is particularly useful in revealing the deposition behaviour of substances on hair. Preferably dry shampoo or styling products, for example pressure sensitive adhesive (PSA), and conditioning products, eg silicone. For example, we have found that individual blobs of PSA are deposited on the hair surface. The invention may also be used to study the effects of hair assaults.

It is possible to illustrate exactly how a treatment or assault is affecting the surface of the hair from a visual and tactile perspective - the skin enables the user to see and feel a true representation of real hair fibres.

Figures

Figure 1 is a perspective view of a device of the invention comprising a 3D skin (1 ) with a printed hair surface (2) on a removable backing sheet (3). The skin has a sticky back (4) and is shown partially peeled from the backing sheet, as indicated by the arrow.

Figure 2 is a perspective view of a backing sheet (3) in the form of a leaflet with folding leaves (5) and a 3D skin (1 ) having a printed hair surface.

Claims

1. An assessment tool for assessing properties of hair, which comprises a magnified , 3D skin of the hair surface on a backing material, wherein the 3D skin has a thickness of from 50 to 1000 microns.

2. An assessment tool according to claim 1 that further comprises a scale.

3. An assessment tool according to claim 1 or claim 2 wherein the backing material is flexible.

4. An assessment tool according to any preceding claim, wherein the 3D skin has a sticky surface.

5. A method of providing an assessment tool according to claim 1 , comprising the steps of: (i) collecting imaging data for at least one hair surface,

(ii) converting the imaging data collected at step (i) into a format to create magnified, images from a 3D printer,

(iii) producing a magnified 3D skin of the hair surface from a 3D printer using the data from step (iv) applying the 3D skin to a backing material;

wherein the 3D skin has a thickness of from 50 to 1000 microns.

6. A method according to claim 5, wherein steps (iii) and (iv) are combined into one step.

7. A method of assessing properties of hair, comprising the steps of:

i) obtaining an assessment tool comprising a 3D skin according to any of claims 1 - 4, ii) analysing the 3D skin using visual analysis, tactile analysis or a combination thereof, and iii) comparing the results of step (ii) to properties of the hair.

8. A method according to claim 7 wherein the properties of the hair of step (iii) include aspects of an array of hair.

9. A method according to claim 8 wherein the aspects of the array of hair are selected from overall feel, movement and shape.

10. A method according to any one of claims 7-9comprising the further step of applying a treatment or assault to the hair surface and repeating steps (i) - (iii).