WO2018078561A1

WO2018078561A1 - Process for producing a decorated cosmetic composition in solid form

Info

Publication number: WO2018078561A1
Application number: PCT/IB2017/056652
Authority: WO
Inventors: Mario De Luigi
Original assignee: B. Kolormakeup & Skincare S.P.A.
Priority date: 2016-10-27
Filing date: 2017-10-26
Publication date: 2018-05-03
Also published as: IT201600108892A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for producing a decorated cosmetic composition in solid form comprising the steps of: (a) providing two or more fluid cosmetic pastes having different colours, each of said two or more fluid cosmetic pastes comprising at least one pulverulent phase dispersed in at least one liquid phase; (b) separately pouring said two or more fluid cosmetic pastes into a container; (c) causing movement of said two or more fluid cosmetic pastes within said container so as to create a decorative pattern; (d) evaporating said liquid phase from said two or more fluid cosmetic pastes to obtain a dried product; (e) compacting said dried product. The process according to the present invention allows powder cosmetic products in solid form, decorated with a wide variety of decorative patterns, to be obtained.

Description

PROCESS FOR PRODUCING A DECORATED COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN SOLID FORM

The present invention relates to a process for producing a decorated cosmetic composition in solid form.

Cosmetics in powder form are an important group of cosmetic products with multiple applications. In particular, powder cosmetics are used for cosmetic skin care of the face or body. Powder cosmetics comprise, for example, eyeshadows, face powders, foundations, blushers, compact earth powders and the like.

Powder cosmetics generally comprise a pulverulent phase containing, for example, pigments and fillers, and a fatty phase (also called "binder") comprising fatty substances. The fatty phase typically has the function of promoting the cohesion of the cosmetic powder particles, imparting softness and emollient properties to the cosmetic product and improving the adhesion of the powder to the skin.

In many cases, powder cosmetics are products in solid form, for example in the form of cakes housed inside containers made of glass, metal or polymeric material (so-called pans or godets) .

Various manufacturing processes of powder cosmetics in solid form are known in the state of the art.

According to a first process, a mixture comprising the pulverulent phase and the fatty phase is introduced into a pan and then compacted by pressing until a solid cosmetic composition is obtained, having the geometric shape of the pan. According to a second process, the pulverulent phase and the fatty phase are dissolved or dispersed in a solvent to form a fluid paste. The fluid paste is then poured into a pan and subjected to an evaporation treatment of the solvent so as to obtain a solid product having the geometric shape of the pan.

In accordance with a further process, the fluid paste comprising the pulverulent phase, the fatty phase and the solvent, is deposited on a base (e.g. a plate), generally made of a porous material or material permeable to the vapours of the solvent, and then pressed by means of a die. The pressed cosmetic paste, together with the base, is then treated thermally to evaporate the solvent and obtain a solid product. The solid product obtained with this process is generally self-supporting, i.e. it is capable of supporting its own weight without becoming deformed.

Cosmetic products in solid form can have different colours. For this purpose, they can contain specific colouring agents such as pigments, reflective particles, etc. As these colouring agents are homogeneously dispersed in the pulverulent phase, however, they give the final solid product a uniform colouring .

In order to make cosmetic products in solid form commercially more attractive for a user, it is desirable to create a decorative surface pattern on the product, in particular a multicoloured decorative pattern .

For this purpose, for example, different-coloured fluid pastes can be deposited inside the same pan or on top of a same base according to a predetermined geometry (for example, depositing adjacent strips of different-coloured fluid pastes) .

The types of decorations that can be obtained with this technique, however, are rather limited. In particular, with this technique, it is quite difficult to industrially, and therefore reproducibly, create decorative patterns based on complex designs or multicoloured decorative patterns with nuanced colours.

The decorative pattern on the surface of the cosmetic product can also be obtained by means of milling or laser engraving. These techniques, however, are based on the surface removal of the product in solid form and therefore allow decorative patterns to be produced in relief but not coloured.

A process for producing a decorated cosmetic product in solid form is described in EP 2220959 Al . The process comprises the following steps: depositing a cosmetic paste on a plate of permeable material; preforming the cosmetic paste with a die; covering the cosmetic paste with a powdery cosmetic material so as to form a layer thereon; compacting the cosmetic paste and powdery material with a second die having at least one relief so as to create at least one recess on the surface of the cosmetic paste; baking the cosmetic paste to facilitate the loss of solvent component; cleaning the surface of the cosmetic to remove the powdery material from the outer surface, thus leaving it only within the recesses.

Considering the above state of the art, the

Applicant has considered the technical problem of providing a process for producing decorated cosmetic compositions in solid form having a wider variety of decorative patterns with respect to the known art.

In particular, an objective of the present invention is to produce cosmetic compositions in solid form having decorative patterns characterized by complex designs and/or aesthetically pleasing chromatic effects, resulting in particular from the colour contrast generated by the particular arrangement in the pan of pastes having different colours.

The Applicant has found that the above and other objectives, which will appear more evident in the following description, can be achieved by a process wherein two or more fluid cosmetic pastes are poured separately into a container and then caused to move inside to create a surface decorative pattern; the fluid paste thus decorated is then subjected to at least an evaporation treatment of the liquid phase contained therein and finally compacted to obtain the final decorated product in solid form.

The process according to the invention allows solid cosmetic compositions to be obtained, having a wide variety of decorative patterns. By causing the movement of different-coloured fluid pastes directly in the formation container of the solid cosmetic composition before subjecting it to drying, these pastes can in fact be mixed in a wide variety of ways, thus allowing a vast range of decorated patterns based on complex designs and/or chromatic effects (e.g. nuanced colours), to be created.

According to a first aspect, the present invention therefore relates to a process for producing a decorated cosmetic composition in solid form comprising the steps of:

(a) providing two or more fluid cosmetic pastes of different colours, each of said two or more pastes comprising at least one pulverulent phase dispersed in at least one liquid phase;

(b) separately pouring said two or more fluid cosmetic pastes into a container;

(c) causing movement of said two or more fluid cosmetic pastes within said container so as to create a decorative pattern;

(d) evaporating said liquid phase from said two or more fluid cosmetic pastes to obtain a dried product;

(e) compacting said dried product.

The movement of the two or more fluid cosmetic pastes in the container is preferably effected with the aid of a tool, which is introduced into the mass of pastes and moved according to a certain trajectory, random or predefined.

For the purposes of the present description and enclosed claims, the verb "comprise" and all the terms deriving therefrom also includes the meaning of the verb "consist" and terms deriving therefrom.

For the purposes of the present description and enclosed claims, the limits and numerical ranges expressed in the present description and enclosed claims also include the numerical value (s) mentioned. Furthermore, all the values and sub-ranges of a limit or numerical range are meant to be specifically included as if they were explicitly mentioned. Further characteristics and advantages of the present invention will appear more evident from the following description.

According to the present invention, the decorated cosmetic product in solid form is obtained starting from at least two fluid cosmetic pastes (hereunder also indicated as "fluid pastes") having a different colour. Each fluid paste comprises at least one pulverulent phase dispersed in a liquid phase.

The pulverulent phase is preferably present in the fluid paste in a quantity within the range of 30-90% by weight with respect to the weight of the fluid paste, more preferably within the range of 40-80% by weight.

The liquid phase is preferably present in the fluid paste in a quantity within the range of 20-70% by weight with respect to the weight of the fluid paste, more preferably within the range of 30-60% by weight.

The pulverulent phase preferably comprises at least one filler. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "filler" refers to a substance comprising white or coloured particles, inorganic or organic, lamellar or non-lamellar, having the purpose of giving body, rigidity or softness to the composition.

The particles of filler preferably have an average diameter within the range of 2-40 micrometres (expressed as d_V5o, that can be measured according to ISO 13320 : 2009) .

Examples of powder fillers that can be used for the purposes of the present invention are: inorganic silicates (e.g. micas, talc, silica, kaolin), zinc oxide, titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, boron nitride and bismuth oxychloride.

The micas can be selected, for example, from: muscovite, flogopite, thiotite, sericite, lepidolite, paragonite and synthetic micas.

Synthetic fillers can also be used, such as Nylon powders, Teflon® powders, polymethylmethacrylate powders, polyorganosiloxane elastomeric powders, polyurethane powders, hollow microspheres and the like.

The filler is an optional component of the pulverulent phase. When present, the filler can be present in a quantity of up to 99% by weight of the pulverulent phase. The filler is preferably present in the pulverulent phase in a total quantity not exceeding 99% by weight with respect to the weight of the pulverulent phase, more preferably within the range of 3-95% by weight.

The pulverulent phase preferably comprises at least one fatty phase (hereinafter also indicated as "binder") to facilitate the cohesion of the powders between each other in the cosmetic composition in solid form and also the adhesion of the powders to the skin during use. The fatty phase can also have the function of dispersing the powders of the pulverulent phase.

The fatty phase can be liquid or solid.

For the purposes of the present invention, a fatty phase is solid if it has a melting point at atmospheric pressure which is equal to or higher than 30°C, preferably within the range of 30-250°C, more preferably, within the range of 30-230°C.

The fatty phase preferably comprises one or more substances selected from: waxes, metal soaps and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" refers to a lipophilic fatty compound which is solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure and which shows a reversible change in solid/liquid state; in particular, wax has a melting point equal to or higher than 30°C, preferably equal to or higher than 55°C, and equal to or lower than 250°C, preferably equal to or lower than 230°C, more preferably lower than 120°C. The above melting temperature can be determined, for example, by means of differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) , with a temperature rise of 5°C/minute.

Examples of waxes that can be used for the purposes of the present invention are: beeswax, lanolin, Carnauba wax, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, silicone or fluorinated waxes and mixtures thereof.

The metal soaps used as binders are preferably selected from metal soaps of C₈-C22 fatty acids, preferably C₁2-C18 fatty acids.

Preferred examples of metal soaps of fatty acids that can be used for the purposes of the present invention are zinc or magnesium soaps.

The C8-C22 fatty acids are preferably selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid and mixtures thereof.

Preferred examples of metal soaps that can be used for the purposes of the present invention are: magnesium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate and mixtures thereof, preferably magnesium stearate.

The pulverulent phase can comprise at least one liquid fatty acid (at 25°C) , such as, for example, an oil selected from those generally used as binders in cosmetic compositions in solid form. Examples of these oils are: natural oils ( soybean oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, castor oil, etc.); hydrocarbon oils (e.g. paraffinic oils, squalene, polydecene, etc.); fatty esters (e.g. isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isonyl isononanoate, etc.); silicone oils (e.g. po1ymethy1si1oxane, polymethylphenylsiloxa e , polysiloxane modified with fatty acids, polym.ethylfluoroalkyldim.ethylsiloxa.nes, etc. ) , preferably having a viscosity at 25°C within the range of 5-1000 cSt, more preferably 10-200 cSt.

The fatty phase is preferably present in the pulverulent phase in a quantity within the range of 1- 50% by weight with respect to the weight of the pulverulent phase, more preferably within the range of 2-40% by weight.

The pulverulent phase preferably comprises at least one colouring agent selected from: pigments, pearlescent compounds (nacres), reflective particles and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pigment" refers to white or coloured particles, mineral or organic, having the purpose of dyeing and/or opacifying the cosmetic composition, with the condition that in each specific cosmetic composition the pigment is different from the filler. The pigments can be selected from organic pigments and mineral pigments known in the state of the art. The pigments can be coated or uncoated.

The mineral pigments, for example, can be selected from: titanium dioxide, zirconium, oxide, cerium, oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) , chromium oxide, manganese purple, ultramarine blue and the like.

The organic pigments can be selected, for example, from: nitroso-compounds, nitro-compounds , azo- compounds, xanthanic compounds, quinolinic compounds, anthraquinone compounds , phthalocyanine compounds, metal complexes, isoindolinone compounds, quinacridone compounds, perinone compounds, perylene compounds, thioindigo compounds and. the like.

The pearlescent compounds can be selected, for example, from: titanium-coated mica particles, mica particles coated. with bismuth oxychloride, mica particles coated with iron oxides and the like.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "pearlescent compound" refers to a compound comprising coloured particles having any form, possibly iridescent, produced in particular from certain molluscs or by synthesis, whose colouring effect is achieved through optical interference.

Examples of pearlescent compounds are nacre compounds, such as titanium micas coated with an iron oxide, micas coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium micas coated with chromium oxide.

The colouring agent is an optional component of the pulverulent phase. When present, the colouring agent can be present in a quantity of up to 99% by weight of the pulverulent phase. The colouring agent is preferably present in the pulverulent phase in a total quantity not exceeding 99% by weight with respect to the weight of the pulverulent phase, more preferably within the range of 3-95% by weight.

In a preferred embodiment, the pulverulent phase comprises (weight percentages referring to the total weight of the pulverulent phase) :

0-99% of at least one filler;

1-50% of at least one fatty phase;

0-99% of at least one colouring agent.

The fluid paste comprises at least one liquid phase that acts as vehicle of the pulverulent phase.

The liquid phase preferably comprises at least one compound selected from: water, C1-C alcohols (e.g. ethanol, isopropanol, etc.), C5-C40 saturated hydrocarbons, preferably C8-C20_A linear or branched (e.g. pentane, hexane, heptane, decane or C₈-C2o isoparaffins ) , C5-C16 cyclic hydrocarbons (e.g. cyclohexane) , volatile silicones and mixtures thereof.

The liquid phase is preferably a non-aqueous phase, i.e. a liquid phase in which the water content is at the most equal to 3%, more preferably 1%, by weight referring to the weight of the liquid phase.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term

"volatile silicones" refers to silicones having a vapour pressure, at 25°C, equal to or higher than 0.01 mm Hg and, preferably, equal to or lower than 20 mm Hg.

Volatile silicones comprise linear silicones and cyclic silicones (cylomethicones ) . Cyclic silicones preferably comprise from 3 to 6 dimethylsiloxane units (e.g. hexamethylcyclopentasiloxane and decamethyl- cyclopentasiloxane ) .

The fluid paste can also comprise one or more further ingredients, in particular the additives conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, especially in cosmetic compositions for decoration and/or skin care. The additives can be liquid or solid.

Examples of additives that can be used are: fragrances , preservat ives , antioxidants , rheo1ogica1 modifiers, pH regulators, sequestering agents, emollients, cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients (e.g. vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, etc.} and mixtures thereof.

The additives are preferably present in the fluid paste in an overall quantity of up to 20% by weight with respect to the weight of the fluid paste, more preferably within the range of 0.1-15% by weight.

A fluid cosmetic paste can be prepared by mixing the ingredients of the pulverulent phase with those of the liquid phase. The ingredients forming the pulverulent phase are preferably mixed separately from those of the liquid phase and subsequently joined to the liquid phase.

Each fluid paste preferably has a viscosity within the range of 15,000 - 50,000 cPs, more preferably within the range of 20, 000 - 40, 000 cPs . The fluid pastes used can have the same or a different viscosity.

For the purposes of the present invention, the viscosity values are meant to be measured at 25°C, with a Brookfield instrument, with a velocity of 2.5 rpm, rotor RV03. In accordance with the process according to the present invention, the fluid pastes are poured into a container having the form to be imparted to the final solid cosmetic composition. The container, for example, can be a pan made of glass, metal or polymeric material .

The fluid pastes are poured separately into the container, i.e. so as not to create a mass of paste having a uniform colour inside the container.

Once they have been introduced into the container, the fluid pastes are caused to move inside the container so as to create a decorative surface pattern. The movement step can be effected in various ways.

In a first preferred embodiment, the movement is effected with the aid of a tool. The tool, for example, can have the form of an elongated element (e.g. a metal awl ) .

The tool is at least partially introduced into the mass of the fluid paste and then moved in its interior, according to a certain trajectory, until a visible decorative pattern is obtained on the surface of the paste, deriving for example from the partial mixing of the pastes.

A fluid paste having a first colour, for example, can be poured into the container so as to cover the bottom; a second fluid paste having a second colour, different from the colour of the first paste can be subsequently poured onto one or more portions of its surface, so as to create localized colour spots. In the movement step, the tool can be introduced into the paste for example in correspondence with one or more of the above-mentioned spots of the second colour and then moved so as to mix the paste of the second colour with that of the first colour forming a decorative pattern. Depending on the movement mode, the decorative pattern can be created only on the surface of the fluid paste (e.g. movement of the tool only on a surface layer of the paste) or it can be created in the whole body of the fluid paste (e.g. movement of the tool also inside the paste even in the underlying layers) . In the latter case, the decorative pattern remains visible in the final cosmetic product for the whole duration of use of the cosmetic product, i.e. it remains visible even as the product is gradually removed by the user for application .

In a second preferred embodiment, the movement of the pastes in the container can be effected by striking the pastes with a jet of gaseous fluid (e.g. air) .

The movement of the fluid pastes in the container can be effected either manually or using a machine (e.g. robot) . In the latter case, in particular, cosmetic compositions in solid form having a substantially reproducible decorative pattern can be produced industrially.

Once the decorative pattern has been formed, the mass of two or more pastes is treated in order to evaporate the liquid phase present therein and thus form a substantially dry solid paste (dried product) .

The evaporation can be effected either at room temperature or at relatively high temperatures. The evaporation is preferably effected at a temperature within the range of 20°C - 90°C, more preferably within the range of 30°C - 80°C.

The duration of the evaporation step depends on the composition of the paste, the quantity of liquid phase present and the temperature at which the evaporation is carried out. The duration of the evaporation step is preferably within the range of 1 hour to 72 hours, more preferably within the range of 5 hours to 48 hours.

The residual content of liquid phase in the dried product is preferably lower than or equal to 3% by weight, more preferably lower than or equal to 1% by weight .

The evaporation of the liquid phase can also be effected, for example, by putting the container containing the decorated fluid paste under vacuum or by irradiation with heating radiations (e.g. infrared rays) .

The resulting dried product at the end of the evaporation step is subjected to a compacting process, in order to give the solid cosmetic composition mechanical stability. The compacting also allows surface imperfections to be covered (e.g. cracks), which are typically formed during the evaporation step of the liquid phase.

The compacting is preferably effected by applying a pressure to the dried product, within the range of 1-90 bars, more preferably 5-80 bars, for example with a press .

The compacting is preferably carried out at room temperature .

The process according to the present invention can be implemented with devices and equipment known to the person skilled in the art.

The decorated solid product and relative pan in which it was formed, can be positioned inside a container (case) , typically in a specific recess of the latter. The pan can be fixed to the case, inside the recess, for example by means of a layer of glue.

The process according to the present invention can be advantageously used for forming decorated solid cosmetic compositions destined to be used for the decoration and/or cosmetic care of the human or animal skin. In particular, the present invention can be advantageously used for the preparation of decorated cosmetic compositions in solid form, such as eyeshadows, face powders, foundations, compact earth blushers, lipsticks and the like.

The following embodiment example is provided for purely illustrative purposes of the present invention and should not be considered as limiting the protection scope defined by the enclosed claims.

EXAMPLE

A fluid cosmetic paste was homogenized in a mixing machine by mixing a pulverulent phase and a liquid phase in a weight ratio of 65:35. The pulverulent phase and the liquid phase had the composition indicated hereunder:

Powder phase (weight percentage)

- pigment in powder form 71.75%

- porous silica (filler) 3.0%

- diisostearyl malate 10.0% (binder, pigment disperser)

- silicone oil (binder, dimethicone 100 cSt) 7.0% - zinc stearate (binder)

- preservatives

Liquid phase (weight percentage)

- isododecane 100% The above cosmetic composition is suitable for being used as eyeshadow for the face.

The fluid cosmetic paste had a viscosity of 39, 000 cPs (measured at 25°C, with a Brookfield instrument, with a velocity of 2.5 rpm, rotor RV03) .

Different-coloured fluid pastes were prepared in accordance with the formulation indicated above, using however pigments having different colours.

Decorated cosmetic compositions in solid form according to the invention were prepared by pouring two or more of the above-mentioned fluid pastes into a pan having a diameter of 36 mm and a depth of 4 mm.

The fluid pastes were moved inside the pan by means of a cylindrical metal bar (diameter 2 mm) so as to create a decorative surface pattern.

The decorated fluid paste together with the pan was thermally treated in an oven at a temperature of 70°C for 48 hours to evaporate the liquid phase, and subsequently subjected to compacting using a hydraulic tablet press and applying a pressure of 40 bars.

Figures 1-5 enclosed with the present patent application illustrate a view from above of the decorated cosmetic compositions in solid form 1 contained in respective pans 2. Figures 1-5 show that the process according to the present invention allows a wide variety of decorative patterns to be created, producing complex designs and chromatic effects on the surface of a solid cosmetic composition that cannot be created with the processes known in the art.

The attached figure 6, on the other hand, shows a solid cosmetic composition obtained with the process according to the present invention which, together with the pan in which it was formed, is arranged inside a case 3 provided with a closable lid 4.

Claims

1. Process for producing a decorated cosmetic composition in solid form comprising the steps of:

(a) providing two or more fluid cosmetic pastes of different colours, each of said two or more fluid cosmetic pastes comprising at least one pulverulent phase dispersed in at least one liquid phase;

(b) separately pouring said two or more fluid cosmetic pastes in a container;

(e) compacting said dried product.

2. Process according to the previous claim, wherein said step (c) of causing movement is carried out by introducing in said two or more pastes at least one utensil and moving said utensil according to a given trajectory.

3. Process according to any one of the previous claims, wherein said step (c) of causing movement is carried out by hitting said two or more fluid cosmetic pastes with a jet of a gaseous fluid.

4. Process according to any one of the previous claims, wherein said two or more fluid cosmetic pastes have a viscosity at 25°C within the range 15000 - 50000 CPs .

5. Process according to any one of the previous claims, wherein said liquid phase comprises at least one compound selected from: water, C1-C alcohol, linear or branched C5-C40 saturated hydrocarbons, C5-C16 cyclic hydrocarbons, volatile silicones and mixtures thereof.

6. Process according to any one of the previous claims, wherein said pulverulent phase comprises at least one filler.

7. Process according to any one of the previous claims, wherein said pulverulent phase comprises at least one fatty phase.

8. Process according to any one of the previous claims, wherein said pulverulent phase comprises

(weight percentages referred to the total weight of the pulverulent phase) :

0- 99% of at least one filler;

1-50% of at least one fatty phase;

0-99% of at least one colouring agent.

9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said evaporating step (d) is carried out at a temperature within the range 20 - 90°C.

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said evaporating step (d) has a duration of from 1 hour to 72 hours.

11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said step (e) comprises applying a pressure within the range 1 - 90 bars to said dried product.