WO2017102561A1

WO2017102561A1 - Process for preparing a cosmetic composition

Info

Publication number: WO2017102561A1
Application number: PCT/EP2016/080336
Authority: WO
Inventors: Franck Giron; Henri Samain; Franck Girier Dufournier
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2015-12-18
Filing date: 2016-12-08
Publication date: 2017-06-22

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for preparing a cosmetic composition, comprising the steps consisting in: a) depositing, on an intermediate composition comprising a volatile phase, at least one ink originating from a digital inkjet printer, b) at least partially eliminating the volatile phase by evaporation so as to obtain the cosmetic composition.

Description

Process for preparing a cosmetic composition

The present invention relates to the coloration of a cosmetic composition by deposition, by printing, of at least one ink onto the composition.

Prior art and technical problem

There is an interest for a process which makes it possible to easily obtain cosmetic compositions with various colors, that can in particular be personalized. It is desirable for such a process to be able to be carried out directly by the consumer.

International application WO 2015/168524 describes a process consisting in taking a basic cosmetic composition, and, by means of an inkjet printer, covering it with a coloring composition. The printer can be equipped with coloring ink cartridges and also with cartridges containing a compound other than ink, for example a fragrance, a wax or an oil. The printing is carried out over the entire surface of the basic composition. The basic composition can be a free or compact powder, or a liquid, for example a cream.

In order to color the basic composition, it is desirable for the surface area on which the ink is deposited to be relatively large, since this makes it possible to increase the diffusion of the ink within the basic composition. When the basic composition allows it, for example when said composition is a free powder, it can prove to be desirable to mix the ink deposited at the surface with the rest of the basic composition. This mixing operation can prove to be more difficult to carry out in the case of the free powder than in the case of a liquid, given the small volumes involved, the volatility of the powder and the risk of forming lumps. However, while a liquid facilitates the mixing operation, the subsequent sampling of the colored composition in order to apply it to the skin is more difficult to accurately meter out than a powder, and the composition is less suitable for nomadic use, unless a specific packaging is used, which complexifies the process. In the case of printing on a compact powder, the mixing operation is not possible, and it is more difficult to obtain a uniform color, if the powder is sampled over a thickness greater than the depth of diffusion.

Furthermore, the process described in WO 2015/168524 is not satisfactory when seeking to obtain a weakly saturated color. However, such a situation is important in particular when seeking to adjust the color of the cosmetic composition.

When printing is carried out with a normally concentrated ink, i.e. one in which the weight content is between 1% and 5% relative to the total weight of the ink, and if few printing passes are carried out, a color adjustment is obtained only at the surface. When printing is carried out with a normally concentrated ink, i.e. one in which the weight content is between 1% and 5% relative to the total weight of the ink, and if many printing passes are carried out, a coloration is obtained that is saturated but makes adjustment difficult.

Moreover, if a dilute ink is used, for example one in which the weight content of dye is approximately 0.1% relative to the total weight of the ink, the result is not satisfactory for two reasons. Firstly, since the sites in the ink cartridges are limited, and it is necessary to also provide a normally concentrated ink, this solution multiplies the number of cartridges to be provided. Secondly, consumers making their color adjustments desire a rapid process that limits the number of printing passes.

Objective of the invention

There is thus a need to have available a cosmetic composition, in particular in powder form, of which the color corresponds to the user's choice, without the drawbacks mentioned above.

There is also a need for a solution for adjusting the color with a process that is quick to carry out. The invention aims to provide a process for coloring a cosmetic composition, which is easy and quick to carry out and which makes it possible to obtain a precise adjustment of the color of the composition. L Preparation of a cosmetic composition

Process

A subject of the invention is thus, according to a first aspect, a process for preparing a cosmetic composition, comprising the steps consisting in:

a) depositing, on an intermediate composition comprising a volatile phase, at least one ink originating from a digital inkjet printer, b) at least partially eliminating the volatile phase by evaporation so as to obtain the cosmetic composition.

By virtue of the invention, the printing is carried out onto a liquid intermediate composition, owing to the presence of the volatile phase. The latter tends to dilute the ink and to promote diffusion thereof within the intermediate composition. As a result, the printing tends to be more uniform even in the absence of mixing. In the event of mixing, the latter is facilitated by the liquid form of the composition, which reduces the volatility of the particulate filler(s) of the composition. Nevertheless, after evaporation of the volatile phase, all the advantages of a pulverulent cosmetic composition, in particular of a compact powder, with regard to the ease of sampling and of application, are obtained.

The process may comprise a step, after step a), consisting in carrying out a mechanical action of mixing the intermediate composition. This action is facilitated by the presence of the volatile phase of the intermediate composition. The mixing can be carried out manually, for example using a spatula. As a variant, the mixing is carried out in an automated manner, for example by virtue of the presence of a mixing member moved by means of a motorized drive.

Step b) can be carried out by natural evaporation or by forced evaporation. In the latter case, the evaporation can be promoted using suction, pumping, heating, in particular by microwave or infrared radiation, and/or creation of a vacuum. The volatile phase can be eliminated by stoving and/or lyophilization.

The depositing of ink(s) carried out in step a) is preferably carried out on a surface totally free of the intermediate composition. Thus, preferably, no sieve or film is present between the surface of the intermediate composition and the printing nozzle(s) of the printer.

As a variant, it can be carried out through a sieve and/or a perforated film. This can make it possible to prepare or maintain the surface of the intermediate composition in a particular state, for example flat, sloping or with contours. The presence of a sieve and/or of a perforated film can also reduce the risks of fouling of the printer nozzle(s). Finally, this can make it possible for there to be no worry about the printer not being flat, which is advantageous when the process is carried out at home. The sieve and/or perforated film can be attached onto or placed in a small dish containing the intermediate composition, or can be rigidly connected to the printing nozzle(s) or to another part of the printer.

The depositing of ink(s) carried out in step a) advantageously covers the entire surface of the intermediate composition. As a variant, only a part of the surface of the intermediate composition is affected by the depositing of ink(s) carried out in step a).

The process according to the invention can comprise a step, prior to step a), consisting in preparing the surface of the intermediate composition intended to receive the ink(s), by leveling, application of a pressure, of a vibration and/or of an absorption. This preparation of the surface can in particular be aimed at flattening it. The step of depositing a layer of intermediate composition and step a) can be repeated several times, for example two or three times, before step b) is carried out. The step of depositing the intermediate composition can be carried out manually or in an automated manner, for example via a specific nozzle of the printer. Such a process can make it possible to avoid a mixing step, since each layer of intermediate composition on which the printing takes place is uniformly colored because its thickness is sufficiently small for the ink to diffuse through its entire thickness. In this case, the thickness of each layer of intermediate composition is advantageously less than or equal to 1 mm.

Advantageously, steps a) and b) are carried out successively. The composition is preferably applied to human keratin materials less than 24 h, in particular less than 8 h, or even less than 1 h, or even less than 15 min, after the end of step a).

Intermediate composition

The intermediate composition is also known as a "slurry".

Such an intermediate composition comprises a volatile phase intended to be at least partly, or even totally, eliminated before application to human keratin materials, in particular the skin.

The intermediate composition has a volatile phase content which preferably represents 20% to 60% of the total weight of the intermediate composition, before deposition of the ink(s).

For the purposes of the invention, the term "intermediate composition" is intended to mean a composition which is not definitive but is used to carry out the process and to obtain the final cosmetic composition.

The intermediate composition, because of the presence of the volatile phase, is liquid. For the purposes of the invention, the term "liquid" composition is intended to mean a composition which is not provided in a solid form. In other words, it manifests fluidity sufficient to have flow properties. The viscosity of a liquid composition according to the invention, measured using a Rheomat 180 viscometer at 25°C at a rotational speed of 200 revolutions/minute, after 10 minutes of rotation, is for example less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, in particular between 0.01 and 0.5 Pa.s.

Volatile phase

According to the invention, the intermediate composition comprises at least one volatile phase. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile" phase is intended to mean a phase having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 100 Pa to 1 000 000 Pa (0.0075 to 7500 mmHg), preferably ranging from 200 Pa to 400 000 Pa (1.5 to 3000 mmHg), and preferentially ranging from 500 Pa to 250 000 Pa (3.75 to 1875 mmHg).

The volatile phase may comprise at least one solvent, and preferably one volatile solvent.

In the context of the present invention, the term "volatile solvent" is intended to mean a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure, having a vapor pressure at 20°C of greater than 3.75 mmHg and preferably between 3.75 and 1700 mmHg.

This volatile solvent may be water, a silicone or non- silicone organic solvent, or mixtures thereof.

By way of volatile non-silicone organic solvent, mention may be made of: - C1-C4 volatile alkanols, such as ethanol or isopropanol;

- C5-C7 volatile alkanes, such as n-pentane, hexane, cyclopentane,

2,3-dimethylbutane, 2,2-dimethylbutane, 2-methylpentane or 3-methylpentane;

- esters of liquid C1-C20 acids and of volatile Ci-Cs alcohols, such as methyl acetate, n- butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, isopentyl acetate or ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate; - ketones that are liquid at ambient temperature and volatile, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone;

- volatile polyols, such as propylene glycol;

- volatile ethers, such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxy ethane or diethyl ether;

- volatile glycol ethers, such as 2-butoxy ethanol, butyl diglycol, diethylene glycol mo no methyl ether, propylene glycol n-butyl ether or propylene glycol mo no methyl ether acetate;

- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular branched Cs-Cis alkanes such as Cs-Cis isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade name Isopar or Permethyl, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate; - volatile C4-C10 perfluoroalkanes, such as dodecafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane or decafluoropentane;

- volatile perfluorocycloalkyls, such as perfluoromethylcyclopentane,

1,3-perfluorodimethylcyclohexane and perfluorodecalin, sold, respectively, under the names Flutec PC 10, Flutec PC30 and Flutec PC60 by the company F2 Chemicals, and also perfluorodimethylcyclo butane and perfluoromorpholine;

- the volatile fluoroalkyl or heterofluoroalkyl compounds corresponding to the following formula:

CH₃-(CH₂)„-[Z]t-X-CF₃

in which t is 0 or 1; n is 0, 1, 2 or 3; X is a linear or branched divalent perfluoroalkyl radical containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and Z represents O, S or NR, R being a hydrogen, a -(CH₂)_n-CH₃ or -(CF₂)_m-CF₃ radical, m being equal to 2, 3, 4 or 5.

Among the volatile fluoroalkyl or heterofluoroalkyl compounds, mention may be made in particular of methoxynonafluorobutane sold under the name MSX 4518(R), HFE-7100(R) by the company 3M and ethoxynonafluorobutane sold under the name HFE- 7200(R) by the company 3M.

Preferably, the solvent is chosen such that its boiling point is less than 200°C. According to a particular embodiment, the non- silicone organic solvent is chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, acetone and isododecane.

As volatile silicone solvent, mention may be made of low-viscosity silicone compounds chosen from linear or cyclic silicones containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, for example octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethylethyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the silicone compound is chosen from cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and dodecamethylcy clo hexasilo xane .

According to one particular embodiment, the volatile silicone solvent has a viscosity of less than 50 centistokes.

The volatile silicone is preferably cyclic and chosen from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane. By way of example, mention may be made of the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name DC-245 by the company Dow Corning, the octamethyltrisiloxane sold under the name DC-200 Fluid 1 cSt by the company Dow Corning, and the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold under the name DC-200 Fluid 1.5 cSt by the company Dow Corning.

This cyclic volatile silicone generally has a low viscosity, for example a viscosity of less than 5 cSt at 25°C.

Preferably, the volatile silicone is cyclic and is decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name DC-245 by the company Dow Corning.

Preferably, the intermediate composition comprises from 10% to 80% by weight of volatile solvent(s), and preferably from 30%> to 50%> by weight of volatile solvent(s), relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition.

According to one embodiment, when the intermediate composition comprises water, it can comprise a water-soluble solvent.

In the context of the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" denotes a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and water-miscible.

The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.

The water and/or the water-soluble solvent(s) may be introduced as such into the intermediate composition or may be incorporated therein by means of one or more ingredients constituting said composition. Thus, water may in particular be introduced into the intermediate composition by means of introducing an aqueous dispersion of polymer particles that is useful, for example, as a film- forming agent.

In particular, the intermediate composition comprises, in the exemplary embodiments of the invention, from 10% to 80% by weight of water, and preferably from 30% to 50% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition. The intermediate composition may comprise from 5% to 70% by weight of water-soluble solvent(s), and preferably from 10%> to 60%> by weight of water-soluble solvent(s), relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition.

According to one particular implementation variant, the volatile phase comprises water or an organic solvent.

According to another particular implementation variant, the volatile phase comprises water and an organic solvent.

Preferably, the organic solvent is chosen from isododecane, ethanol, acetone, propanol, propylene carbonate, an ester, in particular alkyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.

After elimination of the volatile phase in step b) of the process according to the invention, the composition may finally comprise less than 3% by weight of volatile phase relative to the total weight of the composition, or even less than 2% by weight of volatile phase, or else is free of volatile phase. This elimination of volatile phase may be carried out by any suitable means. It may in particular be carried out, as a variant or additionally, by placing under vacuum, oven-drying, ventilation, lyophilization or heating, in particular by microwave and/or infrared radiation.

According to one particular embodiment, the step of eliminating the volatile phase takes place by suction via a system for placing said intermediate composition under vacuum, and also during a step of drying said intermediate composition in a ventilated oven, for example at 50°C or more, until the weight of said composition no longer changes.

Pulverulent compound

The intermediate composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one pulverulent compound.

The pulverulent compound(s) may be chosen from mineral and/or organic compounds. They may in particular be chosen from fillers, pulverulent colorants, such as pigments, nacres and/or reflective particles, and mixtures thereof.

The fillers may be chosen from those that are well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers may be mineral or organic, and lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, for instance the Nylon^® sold under the name Orgasol^® by the company Atochem, poly-β- alanine powders and polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers, for instance Teflon^®, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance those sold under the name Expancel^® by the company Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those sold under the name Polytrap^® by the company Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls^® from Toshiba), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads^® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate.

The fillers may represent from 20% to 90%, in particular from 50% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition.

The pulverulent colorants may be chosen from pigments, nacres and reflective particles, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from pigments.

The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and/or organic, and coated or uncoated. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, and also iron, titanium or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D & C type and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.

The nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres, sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres, sold by the company Sun Chemical. The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery color or glint.

The term "reflective particles" denotes particles of which the size, the structure, in particular the thickness of the layer(s) of which it are made and their physical and chemical nature, and surface state, allow them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, if appropriate, have an intensity sufficient to create, at the surface of the composition or mixture, when the latter is applied to the substrate to be made up, highlight points visible to the naked eye, that is to say more luminous points which contrast with their surroundings by appearing to sparkle. The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloration effect generated by the coloring agents with which they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendition. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery color or glint. These particles can exhibit varied forms and can in particular be in the platelet or globular form, in particular the spherical form. The reflective particles, whatever their form, may or may not exhibit a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, may exhibit, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material. When the reflective particles do not exhibit a multilayer structure, they can be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular of titanium or iron oxides obtained synthetically.

When the reflective particles exhibit a multilayer structure, they can, for example, comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular of at least one metal or metal material. The substrate can be made of one or more organic and/or inorganic materials. More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and mixtures therof, this list not being limiting. The reflective material can comprise a layer of metal or of a metal material. Reflective particles are described in particular in the documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A- 05017710.

Mention may also be made, still by way of example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, of the particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver. Particles comprising a glass substrate coated with silver, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS by Toyal. Particles with a glass substrate coated with nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the name Crystal Star GF 550 and GF 2525 by this same company. Use may also be made of particles comprising a metal substrate, such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze or titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof. Examples that may be mentioned include aluminum powder, bronze powder or copper powder coated with Si0₂ sold under the name Visionaire by the company Eckart.

Preferably, the pulverulent colorant(s) is (are) present in a content of between 1% and 90% by weight and preferably between 2% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition.

Preferably, the pulverulent compound(s) is (are) chosen from talc, perlite, mica, clay, kaolin, silica, titanium oxide, starch, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the intermediate composition according to the invention comprises a volatile phase and at least one pulverulent compound.

According to one preferred implementation variant, the total content by weight of pulverulent compound(s) is advantageously greater than or equal to 40%> by weight and in particular between 50% and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition.

Other ingredients

The intermediate composition may also comprise at least one secondary compound.

For example, it may comprise a compound capable of setting solid in the presence of water by absorption. Such a compound may in particular be chosen from honeycombed or non-honeycombed hydrophilic powders, such as starches, in particular starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer), and in particular with sodium polyacrylate, and hydro lyzed starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer), and crosslinked sodium polyacrylates (for example the references Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 from the company SNF), and in particular the acryloacrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer, polymers based on starch, on gum and on a cellulose derivative, flour, silica, and mixtures thereof. It may also comprise a compound capable of setting solid by chemical reaction with water, and for example a compound chosen from plaster, cement, salts, such as halides, or oxides, hydroxides, carbonates, sulfates or nitrates of calcium, sodium, potassium or magnesium.

In this case, the process may comprise the step consisting, in particular before step a), in adding to the intermediate composition said compound capable of setting solid in the presence of water by absorption and/or said compound capable of setting solid by chemical reaction with water.

The intermediate composition of the invention may also contain any compound normally used in cosmetic compositions, and in particular secondary coloring agents, which are for example water-soluble or liposoluble, water-soluble active agents, holding agents, in particular film-forming polymers, gelling agents, thickeners, oils, waxes, vegetable butters, surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, flavorings, liposoluble UV-screening agents, bactericides, odor absorbers, plant extracts, salts, antioxidants, basic agents, for instance calcium carbonate, or acid agents, for instance citric acid or lactic acid.

It is a matter of routine operations for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention so that the cosmetic properties desired for the latter are not affected thereby.

Inks

The ink(s) deposited on the intermediate composition, by printing, in step a), is

(are) advantageously one or more aqueous inks, comprising a weight concentration of at least 50% of water. The ink(s) can comprise an additional hydrophilic solvent chosen from alcohols, such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C₃ and C₄ ketones, in particular acetone, and C₂-C₄ aldehydes and polyols, for example chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

The ink(s) deposited on the intermediate composition by printing is (are) advantageously offset inks, inks for flexography and photogravure, containing alcohols such as propanol, ethanol or butanol, glycol esters, alkyl acetates, ketones such as acetone or diacetone alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

The total amount of ink(s) deposited on the intermediate composition may be greater than or equal to 0.2 mg/cm².

The or each ink comprises a colorant. The colorant may be present in the ink in a weight content ranging from 0.01% to 60%, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 40%, or even from 0.1% to 30% and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 20%, relative to the total weight of the ink.

The ink may comprise one or more colorants chosen from water-soluble dyes and liposoluble dyes.

Among the water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of the disodium salt of ponceau, the disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium salt of amaranth, the disodium salt of tartrazine, the monosodium salt of rhodamine, the disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll and methylene blue.

Among the liposoluble dyes, mention may be made of Sudan Red III (CTFA:

D&C Red 17), lutein, quinizarine green (CTFA: D&C Green 6), alizurol purple SS (CTFA: D&C Violet no. 2), Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11 , DC Orange 5, quinoline yellow, curcumin, and carotenoid derivatives such as lycopene, beta-carotene, bixin or capsanthin, and mixtures thereof. The coloring polymers are generally copolymers based on at least two different monomers, at least one of which is a monomeric organic dye. Such polymeric dyes are known to those skilled in the art. Reference may be made, for example, to the following documents: US-5 032 670; US-4 999 418; US-5 106 942; US-5 030 708; US-5 102 980; US- 5 043 376; US-5 104 913; US-5 281 659, US-5 194 463; US-4 804 719; WO 92/07913, or else EP 1 048 282.

The ink according to the invention constitutes a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with keratin materials such as the skin of the face or the body, the lips, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails.

The ink may be liquid at the time of printing and may have, for example, a viscosity ranging from 1 mPa.s to 500 mPa.s and preferably from 1 mPa.s to 300 mPa.s at 25°C.

The viscosity of an ink according to the invention may be measured according to any process known to those skilled in the art, and in particular according to the following conventional process. At 25°C using a Rheomat 180 viscometer, equipped with a spindle rotating at 200 rpm, those skilled in the art choose the spindle for measuring the viscosity from the spindles Ml, M2, M3 and M4 on the basis of their general knowledge, so as to be able to perform the measurement.

The ink may be in emulsion form.

The ink may be chosen from those that are sold for the Gatocopy food-grade printer, in particular of reference A426.

The intermediate composition may be white before step a). Thus, the color of the final cosmetic composition may be provided by the ink(s) deposited by printing in step a).

The intermediate composition may be contained in a small dish during step a), the printer having a housing suitable for receiving said small dish.

As a variant, the intermediate composition is present on a flat support during step a). In this case, the viscosity and the thickness of the intermediate composition are adjusted so that said composition does not flow over the edges.

Galenic form

The compositions according to the invention may be makeup products, preferably of the type such as foundations, makeup bases, face powders, eyeshadows, concealer products or blushers, and more generally any makeup product or product for coloring the skin, the hair or the eyelashes.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition is a foundation, a blusher or an eyeshadow.

Inkjet printer

The printer used is of digital type. The term "digital printer" is intended to mean a machine capable of printing in the form of pixels using digital data, different than a machine comprising a printing form. The printer is an inkjet printer, for example a thermal or piezoelectric inkjet printer.

The printer may be a food-grade inkjet printer of the Gatocopy A426 type allowing printing onto non-flat objects.

Step a) of the process can consist in carrying out a number n of printing passes, with n being strictly greater than one, n preferably being between 5 and 200. The larger the number of printing passes, the greater the amount of ink deposited. The color obtained is thus all the stronger, the higher the number of printing passes, in particular in the case where a mixing is carried out. The larger the number of printing passes, the greater the depth of diffusion in the intermediate composition, in the case where no mixing is carried out after printing.

The printing may use several different inks, in particular inks of different colors. The printing carried out in step a) of the process may be polychrome printing, in particular trichrome printing or quadrichrome printing, or printing with more than four inks.

The printing may use only coloring inks corresponding to primary colors. As a variant, the printing uses both coloring inks corresponding to primary colors and at least one ink corresponding to a non-primary color. In one variant, the printing may use black and/or white coloring inks.

Choice and storage of the printing

The color of ink(s) deposited in step a) can be electronically stored, in particular in an electronic memory. Thus, the mere recall of the memory is sufficient to again implement the process with the same color of ink(s).

Step a) can be carried out according to color information entered by the user, in particular selected on a screen, or measured, in particular on the skin.

The process may comprise a prior step, before step a), of selecting the color of the ink(s) deposited in step a) according to the color of the keratin materials to be made up, and in particular an acquisition, by a camera, of the color of said keratin materials, and/or according to a target color to be achieved during the application.

Cosmetic composition

Another subject of the invention is, according to another aspect in combination with the aforementioned, a cosmetic composition in compact powder form obtained by carrying out the process according to the invention, as defined above, on an intermediate composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "compact powder" denotes a mass of product of which the cohesion is provided by drying of the intermediate composition and optionally pressing.

Assemblies for carrying out the process Another subject of the invention, according to another aspect in combination with the aforementioned, is an assembly for carrying out the process as defined above, comprising, in particular within one and the same packaging:

at least one cartridge of cosmetic ink for an inkjet printer,

at least one intermediate, in particular white, composition comprising a volatile phase, in a sealed packaging.

Another subject of the invention, according to another aspect in combination with the aforementioned, is an assembly for carrying out the process according to the invention, comprising, in particular within one and the same packaging:

at least one cartridge of cosmetic ink for an inkjet printer,

at least one bottle filled with an intermediate composition comprising a volatile phase,

at least one support, in particular an empty small dish, ready to receive intermediate composition for the purpose of printing.

II. Production of a cosmetic composition

Processes

Another subject of the invention, according to another aspect, independently of or in combination with the aforementioned, is a process for producing a cosmetic composition, comprising the following steps:

1) surface-wetting a basic cosmetic composition using a solvent,

2) depositing, on at least one part of the basic composition thus wetted, at least one fluid composition, in particular an ink, originating from an inkjet printer,

wherein the process comprises giving a coloration to the basic cosmetic composition, in step 1) and/or 2).

By virtue of this aspect of the invention, it is possible to adjust the color of the cosmetic composition, deep into the composition and rapidly by virtue of the solvent. Said solvent can facilitate the diffusion of the fluid composition within the composition.

The process may comprise the step consisting in at least partially eliminating the solvent from the cosmetic composition, after step 2). Such an elimination can be carried out by natural evaporation or by forced evaporation. The wetting step 1) can be carried out by spraying the solvent. Use is made for example of a sprayer filled with solvent, manually or mechanically.

As a variant, step 1) can be carried out by printing the solvent using a printer, in particular the inkjet printer used for step 2), with a nozzle dedicated to the solvent. In this case, the printer advantageously comprises a specific cartridge containing this solvent.

Step 1) can be carried out with a solvent feed flow rate of between 5 μΐ/s/cm² and 800 μΐ/s/cm².

Step 2) can consist in carrying out a number n of printing passes, n being greater than 1, preferably between 1 and 100.

The total amount of fluid composition, in particular of ink, deposited in step 2) on the basic composition is for example between 0.1 and 200 mg/cm², preferably between 0.5 mg/cm² and 100 mg/cm².

When the fluid composition is an ink, the printing can be carried out according to information relating to ink, in particular relating to color and/or to weight content of dye, entered by the user, in particular selected on a screen. It may also be information originating from a measurement, in particular on the user's skin. The printing can also be carried out according to a target color, to be achieved during the application. Likewise, when the solvent comprises a dye, the printing can be carried out according to information relating to the solvent, in particular according to color and/or to weight content of dye, entered by the user, in particular selected on a screen.

Another subject of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is a process for making up human keratin materials, in which the colored cosmetic composition, obtained by carrying out the coloring process as defined above, is applied to said keratin materials.

Basic cosmetic composition

The basic composition can be produced by at least partial elimination of the volatile phase from an intermediate composition comprising a volatile phase and at least one pulverulent compound, and optionally other ingredients.

As a variant, the basic composition comprises substantially no volatile phase, but comprises at least one pulverulent compound and optionally other ingredients.

Intermediate composition Such an intermediate composition comprises a volatile phase intended to be at least partly, or even totally, eliminated before application to human keratin materials, in particular the skin.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "intermediate composition" is intended to mean a composition which is not definitive but is used to carry out the process and to obtain the basic composition.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile" phase is intended to mean a phase having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 100 Pa to 1 000 000 Pa (0.0075 to 7500 mmHg), preferably ranging from 200 Pa to 400 000 Pa (1.5 to 3000 mmHg), and preferentially ranging from 500 Pa to 250 000 Pa (3.75 to 1875 mmHg). The volatile phase may comprise at least one solvent, and preferably one volatile solvent.

The volatile phase may comprise water and/or an organic solvent.

After elimination of the volatile phase, the basic composition may finally comprise less than 3% by weight of volatile phase relative to the total weight of the composition, or even less than 2% by weight of volatile phase, or else is free of volatile phase. This elimination of volatile phase may be carried out by any suitable means. It may in particular be carried out, as a variant or additionally, by placing under vacuum, oven- drying, ventilation, lyophilization or heating, in particular by microwave and/or infrared radiation. According to one particular embodiment, the step of eliminating the volatile phase takes place by suction via a system for placing said intermediate composition under vacuum, and also during a step of drying said intermediate composition in a ventilated oven, for example at 50°C, until the weight of said composition no longer changes.

Pulverulent compound

The basic composition according to the invention, whether or not it is in the form of an intermediate composition, advantageously comprises at least one pulverulent compound.

The fillers may be chosen from those that are well known to persons skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers may be mineral or organic, and lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, for instance the Nylon^® sold under the name Orgasol^® by the company Atochem, poly-P-alanine powders and polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers, for instance Teflon^®, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance those sold under the name Expancel^® by the company Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those sold under the name Polytrap^® by the company Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls^® from Toshiba), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads^® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate.

The fillers may represent from 10% to 95%, in particular from 20% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres, sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres, sold by the company Sun Chemical.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery color or glint.

When the reflective particles exhibit a multilayer structure, they can, for example, comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular of at least one metal or metal material. The substrate can be made of one or more organic and/or inorganic materials. More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting. The reflective material can comprise a layer of metal or of a metal material. Reflective particles are described in particular in the documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A- 05017710.

Preferably, the pulverulent colorant(s) is (are) present in a content of between 1% and 90% by weight and preferably between 5% and 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition.

Preferably, the pulverulent compound(s) is (are) chosen from talc, perlite, mica, clay, kaolin, silica, titanium oxide, starch, and mixtures thereof. According to one preferred embodiment, the intermediate composition according to the invention comprises a volatile phase and at least one pulverulent compound.

According to one preferred implementation variant, the total content by weight of pulverulent compound(s) is advantageously greater than or equal to 40% by weight and in particular between 50% and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition.

Other ingredients of the basic composition

The intermediate or non-intermediate, basic composition may also comprise at least one secondary compound.

In this case, the process may comprise the step consisting, in particular before step 1), in adding to the intermediate composition said compound capable of setting solid in the presence of water by absorption and/or said compound capable of setting solid by chemical reaction with water.

The intermediate composition of the invention may also contain any compound normally used in cosmetic compositions, and in particular secondary coloring agents, which are for example water-soluble or liposoluble, water-soluble active agents, holding agents, in particular film- forming polymers, gelling agents, thickeners, oils, waxes, vegetable butters, surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, flavorings, liposoluble UV-screening agents, bactericides, odor absorbers, plant extracts, salts, antioxidants, basic agents, for instance calcium carbonate, or acid agents, for instance citric acid or lactic acid. It is a matter of routine operations for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention so that the cosmetic properties desired for the latter are not affected thereby.

Other examples of basic composition

The basic composition may be a compact powder.

The basic composition is advantageously white before carrying out the process according to the invention.

The basic composition may be contained in a small dish during printing, the printer having a housing suitable for receiving said small dish.

Solvent

Volatile solvent

When the solvent comprises an organic solvent, it may be volatile, having a boiling point below 130°C.

By way of volatile non-silicone organic solvent, mention may be made of:

- C1-C4 volatile alkanols, such as ethanol or isopropanol;

- C5-C7 volatile alkanes, such as n-pentane, hexane, cyclopentane,

2,3-dimethylbutane, 2,2-dimethylbutane, 2-methylpentane or 3-methylpentane;

- esters of liquid C1-C20 acids and of volatile Ci-Cs alcohols, such as methyl acetate, n- butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, isopentyl acetate or ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate;

- ketones that are liquid at ambient temperature and volatile, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone;

- volatile polyols, such as propylene glycol;

- volatile ethers, such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxy ethane or diethyl ether;

- volatile glycol ethers, such as 2-butoxy ethanol, butyl diglycol, diethylene glycol mo no methyl ether, propylene glycol n-butyl ether or propylene glycol mo no methyl ether acetate; - volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular branched Cs-Cis alkanes such as Cs-Cis isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade name Isopar or Permethyl, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate;

volatile C4-C10 perfluoroalkanes, such as dodecafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane or decafluoropentane;

- volatile perfluorocycloalkyls, such as perfluoromethylcyclopentane, 1,3- perfluorodimethylcyclohexane and perfluorodecalin, sold, respectively, under the names Flutec PC 10, Flutec PC30 and Flutec PC60 by the company F2 Chemicals, and also perfluorodimethylcyclo butane and perfluoromorpholine;

CH₃-(CH₂)„-[Z]t-X-CF₃

According to a particular embodiment, the non- silicone organic solvent is chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, acetone and isododecane.

As volatile silicone solvent, mention may be made of low-viscosity silicone compounds chosen from linear or cyclic silicones containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, for example octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethylethyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the silicone compound is chosen from cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and dodecamethylcy clo hexasilo xane . According to one particular embodiment, the volatile silicone solvent has a viscosity of less than 50 centistokes.

The volatile silicone is preferably cyclic and chosen from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane.

By way of example, mention may be made of the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name DC-245 by the company Dow Corning, the octamethyltrisiloxane sold under the name DC-200 Fluid 1 cSt by the company Dow Corning, and the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold under the name DC-200 Fluid 1.5 cSt by the company Dow Corning.

According to one embodiment, when the solvent comprises water, it can comprise a water-soluble solvent.

Low- volatility solvent

In the context of the present invention, the term "low- volatility solvent" is intended to mean a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure, having a vapor pressure at 20°C of less than 3.75 mmHg and preferably between 3.75 and 0.1 mmHg.

Preferably, the low-volatility solvent is chosen such that its boiling point is below 200°C. The organic solvent may be of low volatility, having a boiling point above 130°C. The low- volatility solvent may in this case be constituted of propylene carbonate.

By way of low- volatility solvent, mention may also be made of silicones, oils, for example triglycerides, long-chain silicones, paraffin, linseed oil, and mixtures thereof.

Elimination of the solvent

When there is elimination of the volatile solvent after step 2) of the process, the composition may finally comprise less than 3% by weight of volatile solvent relative to the total weight of the composition, or even less than 2% by weight of volatile solvent, or else is free of volatile solvent. This elimination of volatile solvent may be carried out by any suitable means. It may in particular be carried out, as a variant or additionally, by placing under vacuum, oven-drying, ventilation, lyophilization or heating, in particular by microwave and/or infrared radiation.

According to one particular embodiment, the step of eliminating the volatile solvent can take place by suction via a system for placing said cosmetic composition under vacuum, and also during a step of drying said cosmetic composition in a ventilated oven, for example at 50°C, until the weight of said composition no longer changes.

Colored solvent

The solvent may comprise at least one dye. In particular, it may comprise a dye in a weight content of between 0.01% and 10% relative to the total weight of the solvent. The dye may be chosen from the water-soluble dyes or the liposoluble dyes defined below, including dyes comprising sulfonic functions, or comprising a quaternary ammonium or pyridinium or imidazolium function, and liposoluble dyes, for example carotenes, curcumins, and mixtures thereof.

In this case, step 1) additionally gives the basic composition coloration. Then, step 2) of the process can be carried out in order to deposit at least one fluid composition onto the cosmetic composition having a property other than coloration.

Fluid composition

For the purposes of the invention, the term "fluid" is intended to characterize the fact that a composition according to the invention is not solid. In other words, it manifests fluidity sufficient to have flow properties. In particular, the composition according to the invention may advantageously have a viscosity of less than 100 Pa.s, preferably between 0.1 Pa.s and 50 Pa.s, and better still between 1 Pa.s and 30 Pa.s, at ambient temperature and pressure, the viscosity being in particular measured using a Rheomat RM100^® instrument.

Ink

The fluid composition deposited in step 2) may be an ink.

In this case, the ink may have a weight content of dye of between 1% and 5% relative to the total weight of the ink.

As a variant, the ink may have a weight content of dye of between 5% and 40%, preferably between 10% and 30%, relative to the total weight of the ink.

In another embodiment, the ink may have a weight content of dye of between 0.01% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the ink.

The ink(s) deposited on the base composition, by printing, in step 2), is (are) advantageously one or more aqueous inks, comprising a weight concentration of at least 50%> of water. The ink(s) may comprise additional hydrophilic solvent chosen from alcohols, such as lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3- butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C₃ and C₄ ketones, in particular acetone, and C₂-C₄ aldehydes and polyols for instance chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for example diglycerol, polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of ink(s) deposited on the wetted basic composition may be greater than or equal to 0.2 mg/cm².

The ink may comprise one or more dyes chosen from water-soluble dyes and liposoluble dyes.

Among the water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of the disodium salt of ponceau, the disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium salt of amaranth, the disodium salt of tartrazine, the monosodium salt of rhodamine, the disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll and methylene blue. Among the liposoluble dyes, mention may be made of Sudan Red III (CTFA: D&C Red 17), lutein, quinizarine green (CTFA: D&C Green 6), alizurol purple SS (CTFA: D&C Violet no. 2), Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11 , DC Orange 5, quinoline yellow, curcumin, and carotenoid derivatives such as lycopene, beta-carotene, bixin or capsanthin, and mixtures thereof. The coloring polymers are generally copolymers based on at least two different monomers, at least one of which is a monomeric organic dye. Such polymeric dyes are known to those skilled in the art. Reference may be made, for example, to the following documents: US-5 032 670; US-4 999 418; US-5 106 942; US-5 030 708; US-5 102 980; US- 5 043,376; US-5 104 913; US-5 281 659; US-5 194 463; US-4 804 719; WO 92/07913, or else EP 1 048 282.

The ink may be liquid at the time of printing and may have, for example, a viscosity ranging from 1 mPa.s to 500 mPa.s and preferably from 1 mPa.s to 300 mPa.s at 25 °C.

The ink may be in emulsion form.

Other fluid composition

The fluid composition can comprise at least one compound chosen from the list made up of cosmetic and/or dermatological active agents.

As active agents that are suitable for the present invention, mention may be made in particular of:

- anti-aging/anti- wrinkle agents,

- moisturizers (or humectants), - fragrances,

- neutralizes,

- emollients,

- binders, in particular water-soluble polymers or polymers in latex form,

- free-radical scavengers,

- coalescence agents,

- vitamins,

- screening agents, in particular sunscreens,

- anti-pollution agents and/or free-radical scavengers,

- agents acting on the microcirculation,

- agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells,

- hyaluronic acid,

- anti-glycation agents,

- NO-synthase inhibitors,

- agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation,

- agents for stimulating fibroblast and/or keratinocyte proliferation or for stimulating keratinocyte differentiation,

- muscle relaxants (dermo -relaxing agents and/or dermo-decontracting agents),

- tensioning agents,

- desquamating agents,

- depigmenting or propigmenting agents,

- anti-seborrhoea and anti- . acnes active agents,

- antioxidants and free-radical scavengers,

- saccharides,

- oligosaccharides, polysaccharides, which are hydrolyzed or non-hydrolyzed, and modified or unmodified,

- amino acids, oligopeptides, peptides, proteins which are hydrolyzed or non-hydrolyzed, and modified or unmodified, polyamino acids, enzymes,

- animal, plant or mineral waxes,

- ceramides and pseudoceramides,

- hydroxylated organic acids, - soluble or dispersed anionic polymers,

- soluble or dispersed non-ionic polymers,

- calmatives, and

- mixtures thereof.

The fluid composition can in particular comprise at least one compound chosen from fragrances, UV-screening agents, moisturizers, binders, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of cosmetic and/or dermatological active agent(s) obviously depends on the nature of the active agent and on the desired effect, but said active agent(s) generally represent(s) from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the case where the compound is a fragrance, the fragrance may be water- soluble or hydrophobic and peptized.

By way of UV-screening agents, mention may in particular be made of those chosen from water-soluble UV-screening agents, liposoluble UV-screening agents, insoluble UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof. Among these UV-screening agents, a distinction can be made between water-soluble organic screening agents, liposoluble organic screening agents, insoluble organic screening agents and inorganic screening agents.

Preferably, it is a water-soluble UV-screening agent or an inorganic UV- screening agent.

Among the water-soluble organic UVA-screening agents that can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of benzene- l,4-di(3 -methylidene- 10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and the various salts thereof, described in particular in patent applications FR 2 528 420 and FR 2 639 347, compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups comprising sulfonic groups, such as those described in patent application EP 0 669 323, and benzophenone compounds comprising at least one sulfonic acid function.

The water-soluble organic UVB-screening agents are in particular chosen from water-soluble cinnamic derivatives, such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzylidenecamphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds and water-soluble salicylic compounds. The inorganic UV-screening agents used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. They may be chosen in particular from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, or mixtures thereof.

According to the invention, titanium dioxide pigments, in particular in dispersion, are particularly preferred.

The term "moisturizer" or "humectant" is intended to mean:

- either a compound which acts on the barrier function, for the purpose of maintaining the hydration of the stratum corneum, or an occlusive compound. Mention may be made of ceramides, sphingoid-based compounds, lecithins, glycosphingo lipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, phytosterols (stigmasterol, β-sitosterol, campesterol), essential fatty acids, 1 ,2-diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone, pentacyclic triterpenes such as ursolic acid, petroleum jelly and lanolin;

- or a compound which directly increases the water content of the stratum corneum, such as threalose and derivatives thereof, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof, glycerol, pentanediol, sodium pidolate, serine, xylitol, sodium lactate, glyceryl polyacrylate, ectoin and derivatives thereof, chitosan, oligosaccharides and polysaccharides, cyclic carbonates, N-lauroylpyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, and N-a-benzoyl-L-arginine;

- or a compound which activates the sebaceous glands, such as steroidal derivatives (including DHEA, 7-oxidized and/or 17-alkylated derivatives thereof and sapogenins), methyl dihydrojasmonate, and vitamin D and derivatives thereof.

According to the invention, glycols, and in particular glycerol, are particularly preferred as moisturizers.

In the case where the compound is a water-soluble polymer, the latter can be chosen from the group made up of an acrylate copolymer, a methacrylate, a polyester and a polyurethane.

In this case, step 2) of the process according to the invention makes it possible to confer on the cosmetic composition one or more secondary properties, in addition to the color, linked to the presence of the cosmetic or dermato logical active agent present in the fluid composition.

Applications

Preferably, the cosmetic composition is a foundation.

Inkjet printer

Step 1) of the process can consist in carrying out a number n of printing passes, with n being strictly greater than one, n preferably being between 1 and 100. The larger the number of printing passes, the greater the amount of fluid composition deposited. When said composition is an ink, the color obtained is thus all the stronger, the higher the number of printing passes, in particular in the case where a mixing is carried out. The larger the number of printing passes, the greater the depth of diffusion in the composition, in the case where no mixing is carried out after printing.

The printing may use several different fluid compositions, in particular several different inks, in particular inks of different colors. The printing carried out in step 1) of the process may be polychrome printing, in particular trichrome printing or quadrichrome printing, or printing with more than four inks.

When the fluid composition is an ink, the printing may use only coloring inks corresponding to primary colors. As a variant, the printing may use both coloring inks corresponding to primary colors and at least one ink corresponding to a non-primary color. In one variant, the printing may use black and/or white coloring inks.

Assembly for carrying out the process

Another subject of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is an assembly for carrying out the process as defined above, comprising, in particular within one and the same packaging:

- at least one basic cosmetic composition,

at least one solvent for surface-wetting the basic composition, at least one cartridge of cosmetic ink for an inkjet printer, making it possible to at least partially deposit said ink on the basic composition. The solvent can be contained in a container chosen from the group constituted of a spraying device, an inkjet printer cartridge and a pre-impregnated sponge.

Cosmetic composition

Another subject of the invention is, according to another aspect in combination with the aforementioned, a cosmetic composition in compact powder form obtained by carrying out the process according to the invention, as defined above, on a basic cosmetic composition, after at least partial elimination of the solvent.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "compact powder" denotes a mass of product of which the cohesion is provided by drying of the composition.

III. Figures

The invention may be better understood with the following reading of non- limiting implementation examples thereof, and with examination of the attached drawing, in which:

figure 1 diagrammatically represents various steps of an example of a process in accordance with the invention,

figure 2 diagrammatically represents various steps of another example of a process in accordance with the invention,

figure 3 diagrammatically represents an example of an assembly for carrying out the process, and

figure 4 diagrammatically represents another example of an assembly for carrying out the process.

As illustrated in figure 1, an example of a process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a first step 1 consisting in depositing, by printing, one or more inks on an intermediate composition comprising a volatile phase, also known as "slurry", using an inkjet printer. The intermediate composition may be as described below in the first example given, with an aqueous volatile phase. The process according to the invention comprises a subsequent step 3 consisting in evaporating the volatile phase of the intermediate composition, for example naturally, so as to obtain the desired cosmetic composition, ready for use. The cosmetic composition obtained is for example a foundation, in bound powder form.

In this example, the process comprises an intermediate step 2, consisting in mixing the intermediate composition with the ink(s) deposited by printing in step 1. It is thus possible to obtain a uniformly colored composition in liquid form, before the drying step 3. Since the composition is liquid, the mixing is easy and can in particular be carried out cleanly and rapidly.

Another example of a process according to the invention has been illustrated in figure 2. In step 4, the printing is carried out on a first layer of intermediate composition comprising a volatile phase, of small thickness, so as to ensure penetration and diffusion of the ink over the whole thickness of the first layer. The intermediate composition may be as described above in the second example given, with an oily volatile phase. In a step 5, a second layer of the same intermediate composition of small thickness, in particular of the same thickness as the first layer of intermediate composition, is then deposited on the first layer.

In a subsequent step 6, further printing is carried out on the second layer, advantageously of the same color as the first layer, so as to impregnate it over its entire thickness.

Finally, in a step 7, the volatile phase is evaporated, for example by forced evaporation, by placing it under vacuum, in order to obtain the desired cosmetic composition.

Of course, other layers of intermediate composition may be deposited on the previous ones and then printed, before the drying step 7.

Represented in figure 3 is an example of an assembly according to the invention for carrying out the process. In this example, the assembly 10 comprises a packaging 11 containing a small dish 12 comprising the intermediate composition I comprising a volatile phase, the small dish 12 being sealed closed by means of a cap 13, so as to prevent any evaporation of the volatile phase. The assembly 10 comprises, likewise in the packaging 11, at least one cartridge 14 of cosmetic ink E. The ink E is intended to be deposited by printing using an inkjet printer onto the surface of the intermediate composition I contained in the small dish 12 after removal of the cap. Figure 4 represents another example of an assembly according to the invention for carrying out the process. In this example, the assembly 15 comprises a packaging 16 containing a plurality of empty small dishes 17, ready to receive the intermediate composition I. The latter is contained in a bottle 18, also present in the packaging 16. The assembly 15 may comprise in the packaging 16, as illustrated, a plurality of cartridges 14 of cosmetic ink E, for example of different colors, the inks being intended to be deposited by printing using an inkjet printer onto the surface of the intermediate composition I after said composition has been poured from the bottle 18 into one of the small dishes 17. The process carried out with this assembly 15 may be that of figure 1 or of figure 2.

In the description and the examples, the percentages are percentages by weight, unless otherwise indicated. The percentages are thus given on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition. Unless otherwise specified, the ingredients are mixed in the order and under conditions that are easily determined by those skilled in the art.

IV. Examples

Intermediate compositions comprising a volatile phase in accordance with the invention are prepared as described below.

Pulverulent composition 1

Composition 1

Compounds

(%)

TALC (SUPPLIER = IMERYS) 56.88

PERLITE (OPTIMA T 2550 OR FROM WORLD MINERAL) 4.93

ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE (SUPPLIER = Ακζο

4.93

NOBEL)

ACRYLONITRILE/METHYL METHACRYLATE/VINYLIDENE

CHLORIDE COPOLYMER (EXP ANSEL 551 DE40 D42 FROM 2.96

FILLERS ΑΚΖΟ NOBEL)

MICA (CI 77019) (SUPPLIER=SCIAMA) 4.93

CORN STARCH (CORN STARCH B FROM ROQUETTE) 7.88

CLAY (HIGH-VISCOSITY PURIFIED SMECTITE FROM

2.96 VANDERBILT B)

KAOLINITE (KAOLIN SUPREME FROM IMERYS) 3.94

LAUROYL LYSINE (AMIHOPEL FROM AjINOMOTO) 0.99 Composition 1

Compounds

(%)

SILICA MICROBEADS (SILICA BEADS SB 700 FROM MIYOSHI

FILLER 0.99

KASEI)

CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.99

DlMETHICONE (AND) TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE (DOW

0.99

CORNING 593 FLUID FROM DOW CORNING)

LOW- VISCOSITY DLMETHICONE (XLAMETER PMX-0225

0.99 SILICONE FLUID FROM DOW CORNING)

GLYCERYL STEARATE (AND) CETYL ALCOHOL (AND) PEG-75

STEARATE (AND) CETETH-20 (AND) STEARETH-20 (EMULIUM 1.97

BINDERS DELTA FROM GATTEFOSSE)

SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE (SPAN 120-[LO]-LQ-(MV) FROM

0.99 CRODA)

DlMETHICONE (AND) DlMETHICONE/PEG-10/15

1.18

CROSSPOLYMER (KSG 210 FROM SHIN-ETSU)

WATER 1.50

Pulverulent composition 2

Composition 2

Compounds

(%)

SILICA (AMORPHOUS SILICA MICROSPHERE) (SUNSPHERE H51

3.00

FROM AGC SI-TECH)

FILLERS

NYLON- 12 POWDER (ORGASOL 2002 EXD NAT COS FROM

3.00 ARKEMA)

LAUROYL LYSINE 2.00

SODIUM DEHYDROACETATE 0.10

MAGNESIUM STEARATE 5.00

MICA (AND) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (AND)

1.00 ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (NAI S I 00 FROM MIYOSHI KASEI)

MICA (AND) PALMITOYL PROLINE (AND) SODIUM PALMITOYL

SARCOSINATE (AND) MAGNESIUM PALMITOYL GLUTAMATE

FILLERS 10.40

(AND) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (AND) PALMITIC ACID (LP S 100 FROM MIYOSHI KASEI) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891) (SUPPLIER=SACHTLEBEN) 0.50

MICA (AND) ΤΓΓΑΝΠΙΜ DIOXIDE (70/30 MIXTURE OF CI 70019

20.00

AND CI 77891) (TIMIRON SUPERSILVER FROM MERCK)

MICA (AND) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (78/22 MIXTURE OF CI 70019 AND CI 77891) (TIMIRON ULTRALUSTER MP 1 11 FROM 33.00 MERCK)

CALCIUM ALUMINUM BOROSILICATE (AND) SILICA (AND)

FILLER TITANIUM DIOXIDE (AND) TIN OXIDE (RONASTAR NOBLE 7.00

SPARKS SQ FROM MERCK)

GLYCERYL 2 TRIETHYL HEXANOATE (NIKKOL TRIFAT S 308

13.90

BINDERS FROM NIHON SURFACTANT)

1 ,2-OCTANEDIOL 1.10

For each composition, each of the compositions is weighed out.

The compounds are then ground in a Baker mill (paddle: 3000 revolutions/minute; motor: 2700 revolutions/minute): the fillers and pigments are mixed for 5 minutes. The nacres are then added and mixed for 5 minutes, and finally the binder is added for 5 minutes.

The pulverulent composition 1 obtained is diluted in water so as to obtain an intermediate composition 1. The pulverulent composition 2 obtained is diluted in isododecane so as to obtain an intermediate composition 2. The amount of water, respectively of isododecane, is 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the corresponding intermediate composition. Finally, the intermediate compositions 1 and 2 obtained are poured into small dishes in the 35 mm x 50 mm format, for carrying out the process according to the invention.

The intermediate composition 1 is then printed using a Gatocopy A426 food- grade printer in each small dish, 50 passes of an Epson EU/ME Cyan ink (Supplier: Lesepidado), ref: 76304002.

It is then left to dry for 8 hours.

A flexible, handleable and colored compact powder is obtained.

The skin of the face can be made up by taking a sample of the cosmetic composition using a sponge. The composition 2 is then printed using a Gatocopy A426 food-grade printer in each small dish, 40 passes of an Epson EU/ME Cyan ink (Supplier: Lesepidado), ref: 76304002.

It is then left to dry for 8 hours.

A flexible, handleable and colored compact powder is obtained.

The skin of the face can be made up by taking a sample of the cosmetic composition with the fingers.

The invention is not limited to the examples that have just been described. In particular, the printing of the intermediate composition can be carried out while the latter is on a support other than a small dish.

At least one composition other than an ink, for example a composition intended to react with the intermediate composition, can be deposited by printing.

The cosmetic composition obtained by carrying out the process according to the invention can be sampled in various ways in order to be applied to human keratin materials. As a variant, the composition is applied without being sampled using an applicator.

Example 3 (with impregnation with water)

Cosmetic composition 3 according to one aspect of the invention:

The formula of the pulverulent composition 1 above is prepared.

Each of the compounds is weighed out. The compounds are then ground in a Baker mill (paddle: 3000 revolutions/minute; motor 2700 revolutions/minute): the fillers and pigments are mixed for 5 minutes, the nacres are then added and mixed for 5 minutes, and finally the binder is added for 5 minutes.

The pulverulent composition 1 obtained is diluted in water according to a weight content of 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The solution obtained is poured into a small dish (reference of the small dish (5 x 3.5 cm): H250G, amount in small dish: between 8 and 10 g) in 35 mm x 50 mm format, lightly pressed using a manual press (pressure: 60 to 80 daN), by placing a screen of pressing net type (screen type: 3 thicknesses of Rimini 150). It is left to dry for at least 8 h, in this example 24 h, at 45°C while ventilated. The basic cosmetic composition 3 is obtained.

The basic cosmetic composition 3 is placed on the tray of the Gatocopy inkjet printer. Before initiating the printing, spraying is carried out with a water aerosol delivering 300 mg/s. The spray reaches the small dish with a flow rate of approximately 0.3 mg/s/cm² (i.e. approximately 300 μ1/α ²/8). The spraying is carried out for 10 s.

The square of color is printed 5 times at the same place on the basic composition 1 thus wetted. The cosmetic composition 3 according to the invention is obtained.

Control composition 3

The same basic cosmetic composition 3 is prepared. It is placed on the tray of the Gatocopy inkjet printer. The square of color is printed 5 times at the same place on the unwetted basic composition 1. The control composition 3 is obtained.

Result

A deeper impregnation is observed in the case where the printing was carried out with spraying (cosmetic composition 3 according to the invention) compared with the case where the printing was carried out without spraying (control composition 3).

Example 4 (with impregnation of solvents)

Cosmetic composition 4 according to the invention

The formula of the pulverulent composition 2 above is prepared.

Each of the compounds is weighed. The compounds are then ground in a Baker mill (paddle: 3000 revolutions/minute; motor 2700 revolutions/minute): the fillers and pigments are mixed for 5 minutes, the nacres are then added and mixed for 5 minutes, and finally the binder is added for 5 minutes. The pulverulent composition 4 obtained is diluted in hexane. The amount of hexane is 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The solution obtained is poured into a small dish (reference of the small dish (5 x 3.5 cm): H250G, amount in small dish: between 8 and 10 g) in 35 mm x 50 mm format, lightly pressed using a manual press (pressure: 60 to 80 daN), by placing a screen of pressing net type (screen type: 3 thicknesses of Rimini 150). It is left to dry for at least 8 h, in this example 24 h, at 45°C while ventilated. The basic cosmetic composition 4 is obtained.

The basic cosmetic composition 4 is placed on the tray of the Gatocopy inkjet printer.

Before initiating the printing, spraying is carried out with an ethanol (95%) aerosol delivering 600 mg/s. The spray reaches the small dish with a flow rate of approximately 0.6 mg/s/cm² (i.e. approximately 550 μ1/οι ²/8). The spraying is carried out for 8 s.

The square of color is printed 5 times at the same place on the basic cosmetic composition 4. The cosmetic composition 4 according to the invention is obtained.

Control composition 4

The same basic cosmetic composition 4 is prepared. It is placed on the tray of the Gatocopy inkjet printer. The square of color is printed 5 times at the same place on the unwetted basic composition 4. The control composition 4 is obtained.

Result

A much better impregnation is observed in the case where the printing was carried out with spraying (cosmetic composition 4 according to the invention) compared with the case where the printing was carried out without spraying (control composition 4).

Example 5

The same test as in example 4 is carried out, with the difference that a water/ethanol (50/50) composition is sprayed, with a flow rate of 600 mg/s.

The spray reaches the small dish with a flow rate of approximately 0.2 mg/s/cm² (i.e. approximately 180 μ1/α ²/8). The spraying is carried out for 16 s.

The square of color is printed 5 times at the same place on the basic cosmetic composition 4 thus wetted. The cosmetic composition 5 according to the invention is obtained.

A much better impregnation is observed in the case where the printing was carried out with spraying (cosmetic composition 5 according to the invention) compared with the case where the printing was carried out without spraying (control composition 4).

Claims

1. A process for preparing a cosmetic composition, comprising the steps consisting in:

2. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the intermediate composition comprises a volatile phase and at least one pulverulent compound, the total content of pulverulent compound(s) being greater than or equal to 40% by weight, in particular between 50% and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition.

3. The process as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein said volatile phase comprises at least one volatile solvent, preferably chosen from water, an organic solvent, or mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially from isododecane, ethanol, acetone, propanol, propylene carbonate, an ester, in particular alkyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.

4. The process as claimed in claim 2 or 3 , wherein the pulverulent compound(s) is (are) chosen from mineral and/or organic compounds, in particular chosen from talc, perlite, mica, clay, kaolin, silica, titanium oxide, starch, and mixtures thereof.

5. The process as claimed in claim 1 or 2, comprising a step, after step a), consisting in carrying out a mechanical action of mixing the intermediate composition.

6. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein step b) is carried out by forced evaporation, in particular by means of suction, pumping, heating and/or creation of a vacuum.

7. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the intermediate composition is white before step a).

8. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the intermediate composition comprises at least one compound capable of setting solid in the presence of water by absorption and/or one compound capable of setting solid by chemical reaction with water.

9. The process as claimed in the preceding claim, comprising the step consisting, in particular before step a), in adding to the intermediate composition said compound capable of setting solid in the presence of water by absorption and/or said compound capable of setting solid by chemical reaction with water.

10. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein step a) consists in carrying out a number n of printing passes, n preferably being between 5 and 200.

11. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the intermediate composition is contained in a small dish during step a), the printer having a housing suitable for receiving said small dish.

12. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition is a foundation, a blusher or an eyeshadow.

13. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the deposition of ink(s) carried out in step a) is carried out through a sieve and/or a perforated film.

14. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the deposition of ink(s) carried out in step a) covers the entire surface of the intermediate composition.

15. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising a step, prior to step a), consisting in preparing the surface of the intermediate composition intended to receive the ink(s), by leveling, application of a pressure, of a vibration and/or of an absorption.

16. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the printing carried out in step a) is polychrome printing, in particular trichrome printing or quadrichchrome printing, or printing with more than four inks.

17. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the color of ink(s) deposited in step a) is stored in an electronic memory.

18. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of ink(s) deposited on the intermediate composition is greater than or equal to 0.2 mg/cm².

19. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein step a) is carried out according to color information entered by the user, in particular selected on a screen, or measured, in particular on the skin.

20. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising a step, before step a), of selecting the color of the ink(s) deposited in step a) according to the color of the keratin materials to be made up, and in particular an acquisition, by a camera, of the color of said keratin materials, and/or according to a target color to be achieved during the application.

21. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising carrying out a step of depositing a layer of intermediate composition and step a), repeated several times before carrying out step b), the thickness of each layer of intermediate composition being less than or equal to 1 mm.

22. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises, after elimination of the volatile phase in step b), less than 3% by weight of volatile phase relative to the total weight of the composition, or even less than 2% by weight of volatile phase.

23. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is applied to human keratin materials less than 24 h, in particular less than 1 h, or even less than 15 min, after the end of step a).

24. A cosmetic composition in compact powder form obtained by carrying out the process as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 23 on an intermediate composition comprising a volatile phase.

25. An assembly (10) for carrying out the process as defined in any one of the preceding claims 1 to 23, comprising, in particular within one and the same packaging (11):

- at least one cartridge (14) of cosmetic ink (E) for an inkjet printer,

- at least one small dish (12) containing an intermediate composition (I), which is in particular white, comprising a volatile phase and a film (13) which seals the small dish (12) closed.

26. An assembly (15) for carrying out the process as defined in any one of the preceding claims 1 to 23, comprising, in particular within one and the same packaging (16):

- at least one cartridge (14) of cosmetic ink (E) for an inkjet printer,

- at least one bottle (18) filled with an intermediate composition (I) comprising a volatile phase,

- at least one empty small dish (17) ready to receive intermediate composition (I).

27. A process for producing a cosmetic composition, comprising the following steps:

1) surface-wetting a basic composition using a solvent,

2) depositing, on at least one part of the basic composition thus wetted, at least one fluid composition originating from an inkjet printer,

wherein the process comprises giving a coloration to the basic composition, in step 1) and/or 2)·

28. The process as claimed in claim 27, wherein the solvent is chosen from the group constituted of water and a mixture of water and organic solvent.

29. The process as claimed in claim 28, wherein the organic solvent is a volatile solvent, having a boiling point below 130°C.

30. The process as claimed in claim 28, wherein the organic solvent is a solvent of low volatility, having a boiling point above 130°C.

31. The process as claimed in claim 27, wherein the fluid composition is an ink.

32. The process as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the ink has a weight content of dye of between 1% and 5% relative to the total weight of the ink.

33. The process as claimed in claim 31, wherein the ink has a weight content of dye of between 5% and 40%, preferably between 10%> and 30%>, relative to the total weight of the ink.

34. The process as claimed in claim 31 , wherein the ink has a weight content of dye of between 0.01% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the ink.

35. The process as claimed in any one of claims 27 to 34, comprising the step consisting in at least partially eliminating the solvent from the cosmetic composition, after step 2).

36. The process as claimed in any one of claims 27 to 35, wherein step 1) is carried out by spraying the solvent.

37. The process as claimed in any one of claims 27 to 35, wherein step 1) is carried out by printing the solvent using a printer, in particular the inkjet printer used for step 2), with a nozzle dedicated to the solvent.

38. The process as claimed in any one of claims 27 to 37, wherein step 1) is carried out with a flow rate for sending the solvent of between 5 μΐ/s/cm² and 800 μΐ/s/cm².

39. The process as claimed in any one of claims 27 to 38, wherein the solvent comprises a dye.

40. The process as claimed in any one of claims 27 to 39, wherein the cosmetic composition is a foundation.

41. The process as claimed in any one of claims 27 to 40, wherein the basic composition is a compact powder.

42. The process as claimed in any one of claims 27 to 41, wherein step 2) consists in carrying out a number n of printing passes, n being greater than 1, n preferably being between 1 and 100.

43. The process as claimed in any one of claims 27 to 42, wherein the total amount of fluid composition, in particular of ink, deposited in step 2) on the basic composition is between 0.1 and 200 mg/cm², preferably between 0.5 mg/cm² and 100 mg/cm².

44. The process as claimed in claim 31 and optionally any one of claims 27 to 43, wherein the printing in step 2) is carried out according to information relating to ink, in particular relating to color and/or to weight concentration of dye, entered by the user, in particular selected on a screen, or measured, in particular on the user's skin, and/or according to a target color to be achieved during the application.

45. A process for making up human keratin materials, wherein the colored cosmetic composition obtained by carrying out the coloring process as defined in any one of claims 27 to 44 is applied to said materials.

46. An assembly for carrying out the process as defined in any one of claims 27 to 44, comprising, in particular within one and the same packaging:

- at least one basic composition,

- at least one solvent for surface-wetting the basic composition,

- at least one cartridge of cosmetic ink or of another fluid composition for an inkjet printer, making it possible to at least partially deposit said ink or other fluid composition on the basic composition.

47. The assembly as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the solvent is contained in a container chosen from the group constituted of a spraying device, an inkjet printer cartridge and a pre-impregnated sponge.