WO2017057836A1

WO2017057836A1 - Method for measuring elasticity of hair using shape-retaining pressure

Info

Publication number: WO2017057836A1
Application number: PCT/KR2016/008222
Authority: WO
Inventors: 박혁곤; 이해광; 최장원; 김아름
Original assignee: (주)아모레퍼시픽
Priority date: 2015-09-30
Filing date: 2016-07-27
Publication date: 2017-04-06
Also published as: TWI708055B; KR20170038226A; KR102046838B1; HK1255424A1; CN108139307A; TW201712316A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a hair elasticity estimation method which can directly, non-invasively, and repeatedly measure hair elasticity in the human body and can perform a reproducible and accurate quantitative analysis of hair elasticity. The use of the estimation method according to the present invention not only can save the time and costs required to estimate the elasticity of hair, but also enables a highly reliable quantitative analysis, thus contributing, as a means for guaranteeing quality, to product development.

Description

Method of measuring elasticity of hair using shape holding pressure

The present invention relates to a method for measuring elasticity of hair using shape holding pressure, and more particularly, to measure the elasticity of hair by measuring the maximum pressure at the moment of deformation of the arch-shaped hair and the use of the cosmetic composition for hair using the same. The present invention relates to a method for evaluating the effect of improving hair elasticity and an apparatus therefor.

Generally, hair is damaged by various physical and chemical effects, such as frequent hair washing, perm treatment, bleaching or oxidation hair dye treatment, coating, drying with a dryer, heat exposure to UV rays, exposure to hypochlorous acid in the pool, etc. Receive. This damaged hair is difficult to repair again and rapidly ages as the time passes. Therefore, in order to maintain a healthier hair, not only proper conditioning is necessary for damaged hair, but also self-awareness of the degree of damage of hair and the effort to suppress the progress of the damage should be accompanied.

Currently, evaluation methods for evaluating the degree of hair damage are known, such as time evaluation and physical property evaluation. For example, surface analysis of hair by electron microscopy (Swift JA et al., J. Society of Cosmetic Chemists (1972) ), Vol. 23, p. 695.), tensile test method for measuring the mechanical strength of hair (Donald ED et al., J. Society of Cosmetic Chemists (1968) Vol. 19, p. 395.), hair internal structure changes (Humphres WT et al., J. Society of Cosmetic Chemists (1972) Vol. 23, p. 359.), by labeling the hair with a fluorescent material, and measuring the degree of damage with a fluorescent microscope (Tate ML et al., J. Society of Cosmetic Chemists (1993) Vol. 44, p.347.), But all require special expensive equipment, and only a skilled person can handle them for analysis, which is a cumbersome problem to measure. Rather, the difference in the analysis results according to the position of the hair is large, so that the reproducibility of the analysis values It has a claim. In addition, in order to evaluate the degree of damage of the above-mentioned hair, it is accompanied by the inconvenience of having to collect the hair of the subject, and has the disadvantage that it is not possible to repeatedly measure in the actual use conditions of the human-use product.

Therefore, the present applicant has environmental internal and external factors, and thus, in measuring the degree of damage to human hair in which deviations between hair tracers are significant, the type and time of use of the product are continuously maintained without burden of hair collection and breakage of the subject. The present invention was completed to provide a method for evaluating the elasticity of the hair according to the change and an apparatus for measuring the same.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a method for measuring hair elasticity improvement effect of a quantitative hair elasticity measurement method and a hair cosmetic composition using the same, which is reproducible within a short time by using a shape holding pressure.

The present invention comprises the steps of fixing the hair in the form of an arch; And pressing the fixed hair to measure the force at the point where the arch form collapses.

The method according to an embodiment of the present invention is a non-invasive method that does not cause hair damage, such as extracting hair of a subject, and may be repeatedly performed using the same hair.

In the method according to an embodiment of the present invention, the hair is fixed to one end of the first fixing portion and the second fixing portion of the other end to form an arch shape, the middle of the horizontal side of the first fixing portion and the second fixing portion A force is applied from the vertical vertex of the point toward the midpoint. At this time, the force may be applied while increasing the magnitude of the force in the range of 0.001 to 50N (newton), the force may be increased by 0.001 N per second, but is not limited thereto.

The present invention provides a fixing member for fixing the arch-shaped hair; And a measuring member mounted with a push-pull piston having a groove at the distal end and measuring a force at a point where the arch shape of the fixed hair collapses.

The push-pull piston according to an embodiment of the present invention may be operated while increasing the magnitude of the force in the range of 0.001 to 5 N (newton).

In addition, the present invention comprises the steps of selecting a portion of the hair to be measured, and fixing it in the form of an arch having a constant height and width; And applying a force to the hair to measure the force at the point where the arch form of the hair collapses. It provides a method for evaluating the hair elasticity improvement effect of quantifying the degree of improvement in elasticity of the hair by measuring the values measured before and after treatment of the cosmetic composition for hair using the method comprising.

Hair cosmetic composition according to an embodiment of the present invention is a hair tonic, hair nourishing cosmetics, hair essence, hair serum, hair treatment, hair conditioner, hair shampoo, hair lotion, hair cream, hair styling agent, hair coloring agent and It may be one or more selected from a hair bleaching agent and the like, but is not limited thereto.

The present invention can not only quantify the elasticity of the hair, which can be a measure of the degree of damage to the hair, but can also perform the evaluation without taking the subject's hair or pretreating the hair, according to the treatment history of the hair. It is possible to evaluate using the same hair, it can be used as a parameter to continuously evaluate the effect of continuous use of hair cosmetics or changes in hair elasticity due to hair growth, aging and stress conditions.

In addition, according to the elasticity evaluation method of the hair according to the present invention, it is possible to measure directly in the human body to minimize the interference effect according to environmental factors in the real environment to ensure reproducibility, and to provide a quantitative measuring method with reduced time and cost In addition to being able to do so, it is expected to contribute a lot as a means of quality assurance in product development with reliable evaluation methods.

1 is a graph showing a change in force that appears while deforming as a certain amount of pressure is gradually applied to the arch-shaped hair in the measuring method according to the present invention.

Figure 2 is a graph showing the effect of improving the hair elasticity measured in Example 2 according to the present invention.

The present invention relates to a method for measuring hair elasticity using a shape-holding pressure according to the present invention, as well as a method for measuring hair elasticity improvement effect of a cosmetic composition for hair using the same, as well as a method for measuring hair elasticity and a quantitative and visible method, and to measure the same. Unless otherwise defined in the technical and scientific terms used herein, the present invention has the meaning commonly understood by those of ordinary skill in the art, and unnecessarily obscures the subject matter of the present invention. Description of known functions and configurations that may be omitted.

Hair elasticity has major characteristics affecting volume and hairstyling power, but has high flexibility and rigidity at the same time, and has an evaluation problem that its definition is ambiguous and difficult to measure. Accordingly, the present applicant has completed the present invention to define the elasticity of the hair as the maximum force required to maintain a specific arch shape that is a combination of flexibility and rigidity in consideration of the characteristics of the hair, and to quantify it to provide a reliable measuring method. .

The method of measuring elasticity of hair according to the present invention does not require pretreatment such as bundle production after collecting the hair of the subject, and thus it is possible to continuously measure the hair continuously without repeating the burden of the hair collection and breaking of the subject. Have a difference.

In addition, the method of measuring elasticity of the hair according to the present invention can be measured by temporarily fixing a part of the actual human hair, and it is possible to quantify the degree of elasticity of the hair directly and quickly while maintaining a hair product use environment. Has an advantage.

The present invention, in order to achieve the above object, fixing the hair in the form of an arch; And pressing the fixed hair to measure the force at the point where the arch form collapses.

At this time, the "force at the point where the arch form collapses" according to the present invention is a form that does not maintain the form is not maintained if a certain level of force is applied in a constantly increasing pressure condition as shown in Figure 1 as the pressure drops sharply To mean the point, the point may mean the maximum pressing force (F _max ) that can maintain the arch shape.

The measuring method according to the present invention is not only an objective and visible measuring method but also a non-invasive method that does not involve a pretreatment process such as collecting hair of a subject, and thus can be easily used for product development. Continuous tracking measurements are possible.

In the method for measuring the elasticity of the hair according to the present invention, the hair may be fixed to the first fixing portion of one end and the second fixing portion of the other end to form an arch shape.

The hair may be variably selected according to the measurement purpose and range, and the hair is not limited as long as the length can be secured. At this time, considering the growth rate of hair (about 1 cm / month) it is preferable to use the one within the range of 30 cm from the root of the root that has less exposure to the external environment and secured the minimum length after growth, but is not limited thereto. The length of the hair required for is also preferably used in the range 0.5 to 30cm, but is not limited to this can be measured in short hair, such as men.

In addition, the measurement site in the hair strand is preferably in the range of 0.2 to 15 cm from the root of the hair, and more preferably in the range of 1 to 10 cm in consideration of the fixed space between the hair strands so that it can be evaluated mainly on the newly grown site. It is good. In addition, it may be performed in the range of 0.2 to 15 cm from the bottom of the hair for the measurement of the degree of hair damage.

The hair according to an embodiment of the present invention can be measured using 1 to 300 strands of the hair in the range in consideration of the density and the measurement range of the hair, the side having the ease of sample preparation and low standard deviation In about 10 to 50 strands, more preferably 10 to 30 strands may be used, but is not limited thereto.

Method for measuring the elasticity of the hair according to an embodiment of the present invention may be a force applied from the vertical axis peak of the horizontal midpoint of the first fixing portion and the second fixing portion of the hair toward the middle point. At this time, the force may be applied while increasing the size of the force in the range of 0.001 to 50N (newton) or 1 to 5 kgf, it may be applied while increasing the size of the force by 0.001 N or 1 gf per second It can be appropriately modified according to the site and purpose to be measured.

In addition, the present invention by measuring the hair elastic force before and after the treatment of the hair cosmetic composition using the above-described method for measuring the elasticity of the hair, the hair cosmetic composition developed has any effect on the physical properties such as hair elasticity and damage Can accurately predict and validate That is, by adopting an evaluation method using the method of measuring the elasticity of the hair according to the present invention, it is possible to apply a large-scale high-reliability screening for the improvement of hair elasticity and hair damage degree, it can be importantly applied to the development of its own product prescription, It is expected to be used as a means of guaranteeing the quality of the company's and Jindeung's products that are already on the market.

Evaluation method according to the present invention comprises the steps of selecting a portion of the hair to be measured, and fixing it in the form of an arch having a constant height and width; And applying a force to the hair, measuring the force at the point where the arch shape of the hair collapses; measuring the measured values before and after treatment of the cosmetic composition for hair using the method comprising a degree of improvement in elasticity of the hair. It may be to quantify. At this time, by using the above-described evaluation method can be selected for the candidate hair cosmetic composition having a value equal to or greater than the elasticity of the hair before treatment, quantitative comparison with commercially available hair cosmetic composition is also possible.

In addition, hair has a large variation between hair tracers due to genetic, environmental, internal and external factors, and a large difference in results for each measurement site. Conventional analytical methods try to reduce analysis errors by increasing the number of samples and the number of samples. Although attempted, the evaluation method according to the present invention can not only repeatedly use the same subject's hair, but also minimize the influence of the above factors, thereby providing a reliable and quantitative numerical value.

The evaluation method according to the present invention is excellent in reproducibility and can significantly shorten analysis time. The hair cosmetic composition may be selected from hair tonic, hair nourishing cosmetics, hair essence, hair serum, hair treatment, hair conditioner, hair shampoo, hair lotion, hair cream, hair styling agent, hair coloring agent and hair bleaching agent. However, it is not limited thereto.

In addition, the present invention provides a fixing member for fixing the arch-shaped hair; And a measuring member mounted with a push-pull piston having a groove at the distal end and measuring a force at a point where the arch shape of the fixed hair collapses.

The fixing member according to an embodiment of the present invention is to fix the hair in the shape of an arch may be to fix the hair in the range of 5 to 180 ° angle, but fixed to a range outside of the range according to the purpose to measure Of course it can be.

The measuring member according to an embodiment of the present invention is a processing unit for performing the pressure by the push-pull piston; A pressure sensor unit for measuring the pressure thereof simultaneously with the pressurization in the processing unit; It may include a; monitor unit for receiving the pressure information received from the pressure sensor unit.

In the case of the push-pull piston mounted to the measuring member according to an embodiment of the present invention, V-type, U-type, Y-type, X-type, etc. in terms of fixing the arch-shaped hair so as not to be pushed from side to side in a pressurized state It is preferable to have one side or two side groove of, but is not limited to this form.

In addition, the push-pull piston according to an embodiment of the present invention may be operated while increasing the magnitude of the force in the range of 0.001 to 50N (newton) or 1 to 5 kgf, the force of 0.001 N or 1 gf per second It may be added to increase the size, but this may be appropriately modified according to the site and purpose to be measured.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. However, these examples are only for the understanding of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention in any sense is not limited thereto.

(Example 1)

Subjects were allowed to stand in an artificial climate chamber (temperature 23 ° C., humidity 45% RH) for 30 minutes and then fixed in an arch form 1.5 cm high using 5 to 8 cm (about 3 cm, 15 strands) of hair from the root. . Thus, the pressure is increased by using a push-pull piston with a force that increases by 0.001 N per second starting from 0.001 N. At this time, the force was applied in the vertical direction from the peak of the arch shape, the pressure was measured at the same time as the pressure in the measuring member equipped with the push-pull piston. After measuring the force at the point where the arch form of the hair collapses it was repeated 30 times, the measured values are shown in Table 1 below.

As shown in Table 1, the method for measuring elasticity of the hair according to the present invention did not cause any additional damage to the hair during the measurement period despite 30 repeated measurements, and it was confirmed that the result was excellent in reproducibility. That is, by using the method of measuring elasticity of the hair according to the present invention, it is possible to provide more reliable data in a simple way by using a simple operation and facilities for the powerful information for measuring the damage of the hair and it is possible to repeat the measurement Able to know.

(Example 2)

In a similar manner to the method of Example 1, the elasticity of the hair before treatment was measured in 30 strands of 13 individual hairs. Thereafter, 0.1 g per 0.1 g of the hair essence prepared by the conventional hair essence preparation method was evenly applied to the hair before the treatment, and then repeated 15 times in the same manner as in Example 1 The elasticity of the changed hair after the treatment was measured. Using this, the average and the deviation before and after treatment were calculated to evaluate the effect of improving the elasticity of the hair (see FIG. 2 and Table 3).

As shown in Table 3, as a result of comparing the degree of elasticity according to before and after use of the hair cosmetic composition, it was found that the average elasticity of 18.27% improved as well as a significant probability less than 0.001 significant results. That is, the evaluation method according to the present invention can be quantified and evaluated the effect of improving the elasticity of the hair before and after the use of the cosmetic composition for hair, it is expected that it can be used as a useful indicator in product development.

Claims

Fixing the hair in the form of an arch; And

And measuring the force at the point where the arch shape collapses by pressing the fixed hair.
The method of claim 1,

The method is a method for measuring the elasticity of the hair is to be repeatedly performed non-invasively using human hair.
The method of claim 2,

The hair is fixed to one end of the first fixing part and the second fixing part of the other end to form an arch, and a force is applied from the vertical axis vertex of the horizontal intermediate point of the first fixing part and the second fixing part toward the middle point. How to measure the elasticity of the hair.
The method of claim 3, wherein

The force is applied while increasing the magnitude of the force in the range of 0.001 to 50 N.
The method of claim 1,

Wherein the hair has a length of 0.5 to 30 cm.
The method of claim 5,

The hair is how to measure the elasticity of the hair is to use 1 to 300 strands.
Fixing member for fixing the arch-shaped hair; And

Hair elasticity measuring device comprising a; measuring member for measuring the force of the point where the arch shape of the fixed hair is mounted by a push-pull piston having a groove (groove) at the end.
The method of claim 7, wherein

Wherein said push-pull piston is operated while increasing the magnitude of the force in the range of 0.001 to 50 N.
Selecting a part of the hair to be measured and fixing it in an arch shape having a predetermined height and width; And

By applying a force to the hair, the step of measuring the force of the point where the arch of the hair collapses; by using a method comprising a, calculating the measured values before and after treatment of the cosmetic composition for hair by using a method comprising the improvement of elasticity of the hair Evaluation method of the hair elasticity improvement effect to quantify.
The method of claim 9,

The cosmetic composition for hair is selected from hair tonic, hair nutrient, hair essence, hair serum, hair treatment, hair conditioner, hair shampoo, hair lotion, hair cream, hair styling agent, hair coloring agent and hair bleaching agent. Evaluation method of the improvement of hair elasticity.