WO2017011977A1

WO2017011977A1 - Composition for treating keratin fibers

Info

Publication number: WO2017011977A1
Application number: PCT/CN2015/084483
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jia Zhu; Wi-Soon Chia
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2015-07-20
Filing date: 2015-07-20
Publication date: 2017-01-26
Also published as: CN107847415B; CN107847415A

Abstract

A composition for treating keratin fibers, comprising, in an aqueous phase: a) at least one cationic surfactant of quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions derived from fatty acid; b) at least one cationic polymer chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides; and c) at least one silicone.

Description

Composition for treating keratin fibers

Technical Field

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. More specifically, the present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers, especially the hair, with an improvement on conditioning effect and non-stickiness while applying on the keratin fibers.

Background of the invention

In order to improve the cosmetic properties of the compositions for application to the keratin fibers, especially the hair, and more particularly the sensitized hair, i.e., hair which is damaged of weakened, in particular through the chemical action of environmental agents and/or of hair treatments such as permanent-waving, dyeing or bleaching, it is known to introduce into these compositions conditioning agents. The main purpose of these conditioning agents is to rectify or limit the undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or types of attach to which the hair fibers are more or less repeatedly subjected to and, of course, they can also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.

The conditioning agents most commonly used to date are cationic polymers, silicones and/or silicone derivatives which impart to washed, dry or wet hair a disentangling, softness and a smoothness which are markedly enhanced in comparison to what can be obtained with corresponding compositions which do not contain them.

On the other hands, consumers are in favor of those cosmetic compositions which are easy to use, i.e., after applying the compositions on the keratin fibers, such as hair, there is no unpleasant feeling on the skin, especially the hands.

However none of the conventional compositions containing the above mentioned conditioning agents has achieved the demand above mentioned.

Moreover, the conditioning agents may also render the compositions difficult to spread on the hair, due to its thickened texture.

Thus there is a need for a composition for treating keratin fibers with an improvement on non-stickiness on the hands after application.

There is also a need for such a composition with good spreadability on keratin fibers, especially the hair.

There is also a need for a composition for treating keratin fibers, especially hair, with the above mentioned properties, and meanwhile having an improved conditioning effect.

Summary of the invention

The objective of the present invention is to provide a composition for treating keratin fibers with an improvement on non-stickiness and conditioning effect after application. Moreover, the composition as such has good spreadability, and is stable over time.

The above mentioned objective can be achieved by a composition for treating keratin fibers, comprising at least one cationic surfactant selected from quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions derived from fatty acids, at least one cationic polymer chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides, and at least one silicone.

The other objective of the present invention is to provide a process for treating keratin fibers, comprising the step of applying the composition as described above on the keratin fibers, especially hair.

For the purpose of the present invention, “keratin fiber” as defined herein may be human keratinous fiber, and may be chosen from, for example hair.

By “conditioning effect” we intend to mean the disentangling, softness, and smoothness of washed, dry or wet hair.

Detailed Description of the Present Invention

Cationic surfactant of quaternary ammonium salts

Accordingly, the composition of the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions derived from fatty acid.

According to the present invention, “ester function group derived from fatty acid” refers to the group of formula (A) ,

R’-C (O) -O-R” - (A)

wherein:

R’-C (O) -represents a group derived from fatty acids containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms,

R” represents a methyl, ethyl, or propyl group.

According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant is selected from the compound of formula (I) ,

in which:

R₁ and R₄, identical or different, represent a C₁-C₆ alkyl group, C₁-C₆ hydroxyalkyl group, or a C₁-C₆ dihydroxyalkyl group, the alkyl group being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated；

R₂ and R₃, identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₆-C₃₀ alkyl group, C₆-C₃₀ hydroxyalkyl group, or a group of formula (A) ,

R’-C (O) -O-R” - (A)

in which:

R” represents a -CH₂-, -CH₂CH₂-, or a -CH₂CH₂CH₂-group, at least one of R₂ and R₃ represents a group of formula (A) ； and

X represents an anion.

The cationic surfactants are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Examples of fatty acids mentioned above are caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, and cerotic acid.

The examples of the anion X that can be mentioned are a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C₁-C₄) alkyl sulfate, (C₁-C₄) alkyl sulfonate or (C₁-C₄) alkylaryl sulfonate, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function.

Preferably, according to the invention, in the formula (I) :

R₁ and R₄, which are identical or different, represent a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, or dihydroxypropyl group；

R₂ and R₃, identical or different, represent a C₈-C₂₂ alkyl group, a C₈-C₂₂ hydroxylalkyl group, or a group of formula (A) ,

R’-C (O) -O-R” - (A)

in which:

R’-C (O) -represents a group derived from fatty acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

R” represents a -CH₂CH₂-group, at least one of R₂ and R₃ represents a group of formula (A) ； and

X represents a chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

Examples of the cationic surfactant of formula (I) may be mentioned include salts, in particular chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof.

According to a more preferred embodiment of the invention, in the formula (I) : R₁ and R₄, identical or different, represent a methyl group, or a hydroxyethyl group；

R₂ and R₃, identical or different, represent a group of formula (A) wherein:

R’-C (O) -represents a group derived from fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms,

R” represents a -CH₂CH₂-group； and

X represents a methyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names

by the company HENKEL or Cognis (BASF) ,

by the company STEPAN,

by the company CECA or

WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. More specific examples include, for example, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate sold by the company Cognis (BASF) under the trademark

F75, or Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate sold by the company Cognis (BASF) under the tradename

F 30.

According to an embodiment, the cationic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.01％ to 10％ by weight, preferably from 0.05％ to 5％ by weight, more preferably from 0.1％ to 3％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic polymer

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one cationic polymer chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides.

It is first recalled that, for the purposes of the present invention, the term “cationic polymer” denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.

Thus, copolymers according to the present invention include:

· copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide such as that sold under the trade name HERCOFLOC by the supplier HERCULES；

· copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium halides, such as the copolymers described in patent application EP-A-080 976 and sold under the trade name BINA QUAT P 100 by the supplier CIBA GEIGY；

· copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium methosulfate sold under the trade name RETEN by the supplier HERCULES；

· quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone /dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers such as the products sold under the trade name "GAFQUAT" by the supplier ISP such as, for example, "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" , or the products designated as "COPOLYMER 845, 958, and 937" . These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573；

· dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate /vinylcaprolactam /vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the trade name GAFFIX VC 713 by the supplier ISP；

· vinylpyrrolidone /methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers, in particular as sold under the trade name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP.

· and vinylpyrrolidone /quaternized dimethylamino propyl methacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the trade name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the supplier ISP； and

· cross-linked polymers of methacryloyloxy (C₁-C₄) alkyl (C₁-C₄) trialkyl ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the homo-or copolymerization being followed by cross-linking with a compound containing an olefinically unsaturated bond, in particular methylene bis-acrylamide.

More particularly, an acrylamide /methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride cross-linked polymer (20/80 by weight) may be used in the form of a dispersion containing 50％ by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name "

SC 92" by the supplier CIBA. It is also possible to use a cross-linked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride, for example in dispersion in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are provided under the names "

SC 95" and "

SC 96" by the supplier CIBA.

According to an embodiment, the cationic surfactant is present in amount ranging from 0.01％ to 5％ by weight, preferably from 0.05％ to 3％ by weight, more preferably from 0.1％ to 2％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Silicone

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one silicone.

In the context of the present invention, the term "silicone" is understood to mean, in conformity with the generally accepted definition, all organosilicon polymers or oligomers having a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of appropriately functionalized silanes, and comprising in essence a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are joined to one another by oxygen atoms (siloxane link . tbd. Si--O--Si. tbd. ) , optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being linked directly via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular C. sub. 1 -C. sub. 10 alkyl radicals and especially methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, and aryl radicals and especially phenyl.

The silicone is non-aminated, aminated, or a mixture thereof.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a mixture of non-aminated silicone and aminated silicone.

Non-aminated silicone

According to the invention, the non-aminated silicone of appropriate viscosity is preferably selected from:

(i) polydialkylsiloxanes；

(ii) polydiarylsiloxanes； and

(iii) polyalkylarylsiloxanes.

Among polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may preferably be made of:

linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal trimethylsilyl groups, such as, for example, and without implied limitation, the SILBIONE oils of the 70047 series, marketed by RHONE-POULENC,

linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal hydroxydimethylsilyl groups, such as the oils of the 48 V series from RHONE-POULENC, product

PMX-200 silicone fluid 60000CS sold by Dow Corning or

DM 300 000 sold by the company Wacker, or a mixture thereof.

In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may more preferably be made of the polyalkylsiloxanes sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names ABILWAX 9800 and ABILWAX 9801, which are poly (C. sub. 1 -C. sub. 20) alkylsiloxanes.

Among polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may preferably be made of linear or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes or polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes, such as the product DC 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID from DOW CORNING.

Preferably, the non-aminated silicone according to the present invention is polydialkylsiloxanes； more preferably chosen from linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal hydroxydimethylsilyl groups.

Aminated silicone

According to the invention, the term “aminated silicone” , or amino silicone, denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium, and more particularly at least one primary amine.

The aminated silicones used in the composition according to the present invention are chosen from the silicones of formula (II) below:

in which,

D is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) , or C₁-C₈ alkyl, and preferably methyl, or C₁-C₈ alkoxy, preferably methoxy, radical,

i denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0,

k denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1,

j and l are numbers such that the sum (j + l) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10；

R₃₇ is a monovalent radical of formula -C_qH_2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8, it being possible for one or more hydrogen atoms to be substituted with a hydroxyl group, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups:

-N (R₃₈) -CH₂-CH₂-N (R’ ₃₈) ₂；

-N (R₃₈) ₂；

-N⁺ (R₃₈) ₃Q^-；

-N⁺ (R₃₈) (H) ₂Q^-；

-N⁺ (R₃₈) ₂HQ^-；

-N (R₃₈) -CH₂-CH₂-N⁺ (R’ ₃₈) (H) ₂Q^-,

in which R₃₈ and R’ ₃₈ can denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C₁-C₂₀ alkyl radical, and Q and Q^-represents an anion such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

In particular, the aminated silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (II) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to the formula (III) below:

in which R₃₉, R₄₀ and R₄₁, which may be identical or different, denote a C₁-C₄ alkyl radical, preferably CH₃； a C₁-C₄ alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy； or OH； E represents a linear or branched, C₃-C₈ and preferably C₃-C₆ alkylene radical； m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and the sum of which is between 1 and 2000.

According to a first possibility, R₃₉, R₄₀ and R₄₁, which may be identical or different, represent a C₁-C₄ alkyl radical, preferably methyl, or a hydroxyl radical, E represents a C₁-C₈ and preferably C₃-C₄ alkylene radical, and m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately. The compounds of this type are called “aminodimethicone” in the CTFA dictionary.

According to a second possibility, R₃₉, R₄₀ and R₄₁, which may be identical or different, represent a C₁-C₄alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R₃₉ or R₄₁ is an alkoxy radical and E represents a C₃ alkylene radical. The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

In this category of compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, of the product

ADM 652 sold by Wacker.

According to a preferred embodiment, R₃₉ or R₄₁, which are different, represent a C₁-C₄ alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R₃₉ or R₄₁ is an alkoxy radical, R₄₀ represents a methyl radical and E represents a C₃-C₄ alkylene radical. The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1, and advantageously is equal to 1/0.95.

Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200 000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

More preferably, R₃₉ or R₄₁, which are different, represent a methyl or hydroxyl radical, respectively, R₄₀ represents a methyl radical and E represents a propyl, isopropyl, or isobutyl group, n is between 0 and 999, m is between 1 and 1000, wherein the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

More particularly, mention may be made of the product Fluid

1300 sold by Wacker, and product

MEM-8299 Emulsion sold by Dow Corning.

The amino silicones used in the composition in accordance with the invention preferably have general formula (IV) below:

in which:

F denotes a C₂-C₈ and preferably C₂-C₆, better still C₃, linear or branched alkylene radical；

R₄₂ and R₄₃ denote, independently of one another, a C₁-C₄ alkyl, preferably methyl, radical or a C₁-C₄ alkoxy, preferably methoxy, radical or a hydroxyl radical, m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is greater than or equal to 75 000.

Preferably, the radicals R₄₂ are identical and denote a hydroxyl radical.

Preferably, the viscosity of the amino silicone according to the invention is greater than 25 000 mm²/smeasured at 25℃ . More preferentially, the viscosity of the amino silicone is between 30 000 and 200 000 mm2/s at 25℃ and even more preferentially between 50 000 and 150 000 mm²/s, measured at 25℃ , and even better still from 70 000 to 120 000 mm²/s. The viscosities of the silicones are, for example, measured according to standard “ASTM 445 Appendix C” .

Preferably, the cationic charge of the aminated silicone according to the invention is less than or equal to 0.5 meq/g, preferably ranging from 0.01 to 0.1 meq/g and better still from 0.03 to 0.06 meq. /g.

Preferably, the amino silicone according to the invention has a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 75 000 to 1 000 000 and even more preferentially ranging from 100 000 to 200 000.

The weight-average molecular weights of the amino silicones according to the invention are measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at ambient temperature, as polystyrene equivalents. The columns used are μ styragel columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml/minute. 200 μl of a solution containing 0.5％ by weight of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.

A particularly preferred amino silicone corresponding to formula (IV) is, for example, Dow Corning 2-8299 Cationic Emulsion from the company Dow Corning.

A product corresponding to the definition of formula (II) is in particular the polymer called “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” in the CTFA dictionary， corresponding to formula (V) below：

in which n and m have the meanings given above in accordance with formula (III) .

Such compounds are described， for example， in EP 95238； a compound of formula (IV) is， for example， sold under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.

Other amino silicones according to the invention are quaternized amino silicones， and in particular：

(a) the compounds corresponding to formula (VI) below：

in which,

R₄₃ represents a C₁-C₁₈ alkyl radical, for example methyl；

R₄₄ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a C₁-C₁₈ alkylene radical；

Q^-is an anion, in particular chloride；

o represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8； p represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.

Such compounds are described more particularly in Patent US 4185087.

A compound falling within this class is the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56；

(b) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (VII) :

in which:

R₄₅, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and in particular a C₁-C₈ alkyl radical, for example methyl；

R₄₇ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, especially a C₁-C₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C₁-C₁₈, and for example C₁-C₈, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond；

R₄₆, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C₁-C₁₈ alkyl radical, a C₂-C₁₈ alkenyl radical or a radical –R₄₇-NHCOR₄₅；

X^-is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc. ) ；

r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.

These silicones are, for example, described in Application EP-A-0530974；

(c) the aminated silicones of formula (VIII) :

in which:

-R₄₈, R₄₉, R₅₀ and R₅₁, which may be identical or different, denote a C₁-C₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

-R₅₂ denotes a C₁-C₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

-r is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

-s is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

and in which t is selected such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.

Preferably, the amino silicones of the invention are non-quaternized, i.e. they do not comprise a nitrogen atom with a permanent charge.

The silicones which are particularly preferred in accordance with the invention are polysiloxanes comprising amino groups, such as amodimethicones or trimethylsilylamodimethicones, and in particular the compounds of formulae (III) , (IV) and (V) .

By way of example, it is possible to use the product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC 929 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant comprising a mixture of products corresponding to the formula:

in which R₅₃ denotes C₁₄-C₂₂ alkenyl and/or alkyl radicals derived from tallow fatty acids, and known under the CTFA name tallowtrimonium chloride, in combination with a nonionic surfactant of formula: C₉H₁₉-C₆H₄- (OC₂H₄) ₁₀-OH, known under the CTFA name Nonoxynol 10.

Use may also be made, for example, of the product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC 939 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant which is trimethylcetylammonium chloride and a nonionic surfactant of formula: C₁₃H₂₇- (OC₂H₄) ₁₂-OH, known under the CTFA name Trideceth-12.

The silicone particles in the emulsion have a volume-average diameter [D4.3] generally ranging from 10 nm to 1000 nanometres, preferably from 50 nm to 800 nanometres, more particularly from 100 nm to 600 nanometres and even more particularly from 200 nm to 500 nanometres. These particle sizes may be determined especially using a laser granulometer, for example the Malvern Mastersizer 2000 granulometer.

According to an embodiment, the silicone is present in an amount ranging from 0.01％ to 10％ by weight, preferably from 0.05％ to 5％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional ingredient

According to an embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one fatty alcohol.

The fatty alcohol according to the invention may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and may contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms.

The fatty alcohol may be oxyalkylenated or glycerolated.

The fatty alcohol may preferably have the structure R-OH, in which R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 8 to 40 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms； R preferably denotes a C₈-C₄₀ and preferably C₁₂-C₂₄ alkyl or a C₈-C₄₀ and preferably C₁₂-C₂₄ alkenyl group. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and especially with one or two hydroxyl groups.

Examples that may be mentioned include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. The alcohol is preferably cetearyl alcohol.

Mentions can be made to the cetearyl alcohols, for example, sold by the company Sasol under the trademark Nafol 1618 EN.

The fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several fatty alcohol species may coexist in a commercial product, in the form of a mixture.

Advantageously, the fatty alcohol is solid or pasty at a temperature of 20℃ . For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “fatty alcohol that is solid or pasty at 20℃ ” means an alcohol that has a viscosity, measured with a rheometer at a shear rate of 1 s^-1, of greater than or equal to 1 Pa. s.

Preferably, the fatty alcohols of the invention are non-oxyalkylenated and/or non-glycerolated.

The fatty alcohol (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0％ to 10％, preferably from 0.1％ to 5％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "thickening polymer" means a polymer which, when introduced at 1％ in a pure aqueous solution or an aqueous-alcoholic solution containing 30％ ethanol, and at pH ＝ 7, makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps and preferably of at least 500 cps, at 25℃ and at a shear rate of 1 s^-1. This viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or the like) .

According to the invention, the term "cellulose-based" polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues bonded together via β-1, 4 linkages.

The cellulose-based thickening polymer may be associative, i.e. it may bear in its structure at least one C₁₀-C₃₀ fatty chain.

Alternatively, the cellulose-based thickening polymer may be non-associative, i.e. not bearing any C₁₀-C₃₀ fatty chains.

The cellulose-based thickening polymers may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, especially in microcrystalline form, and cellulose derivatives which may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.

Among the cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc. ) , organic esters of cellulose (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc. ) , and mixed organic/mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

Among the nonionic cellulose ethers without a C₁₀-C₃₀ fatty chain, i.e. which are "non-associative" , mention may be made of (C₁-C₄) alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical) ； (poly) hydroxy (C₁-C₄) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR provided by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aqualon) ； mixed (poly) hydroxy (C₁-C₄) alkyl (C₁-C₄) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical) , hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of (poly) carboxy (C₁-C₄) alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. Examples that may be mentioned include carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.

Among the cationic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, such as (poly) hydroxy (C₁-C₄) alkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted especially with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names

L 200 and

H 100 by the company National Starch.

The associative cellulose-based thickening polymer may be cationic and may be chosen from:

-quaternized cationic celluloses and in particular quaternized cationic hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one hydrophobic chain, preferably alkyl, alkylaryl or arylalkyl groups, or mixtures thereof, and preferably alkyl groups.

The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C₈-C₃₀ hydrophobic chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM

, Quatrisoft LM-X529-18-

, Quatrisoft LM-X529-

(C₁₂ alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X529-

(C₁₈ alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel

, Crodacel

(C₁₂ alkyl) and Crodacel

(C₁₈ alkyl) sold by the company Croda.

Mention may also be made of products such as Softcat Polymer SL 100 sold by the company Amerchol.

The associative cellulose-based thickening polymer may be nonionic and may be chosen from:

-nonionic cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one hydrophobic chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C₈-C₂₂, for instance the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330

(C₁₆ alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, or the product Bermocoll EHM

sold by the company Berol Nobel,

-cellulose derivatives modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-

sold by the company Amerchol.

Among the cellulose-based thickening polymers that may be used in the composition according to the invention, cellulose ethers, and preferably nonionic cellulose ethers, are more particularly preferred.

Hydroxyalkylcelluloses, and in particular hydroxyethylcelluloses, will especially be used.

Preferably, the cellulose-based thickening polymer is in an amount ranging from 0％ to 3％ by weight, preferably from 0.05％ to 1％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic adjuvants, for example, the adjuvants which are well known in the art, such as anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof other than the ones mentioned above, additional surfactants, agents for preventing hair loss, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, fragrances and preserving agents.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional adjuvants such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition (s) .

The above adjuvants may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and 20％ by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Process and use

The composition of the present invention also relates to a process for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular the hair, using the composition as described above.

According to an embodiment, the process for conditioning keratin fibers consists in applying the composition as described above to the keratin fibers.

In the other aspect, the present invention also relates to the use of the composition as described above for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular the hair.

Examples

Formulation example

The following formulas were prepared:

Comparative formula 1’ contains Behentrimonium chloride instead of the cationic surfactant useful in the present invention；

Comparative formula 2’ contains Guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride instead of the cationic polymer useful in the present invention.

The invention and comparative formulas were prepared following the steps of: heating phase A to 85℃ and mixing until homogeneous；

adding phase A to phase B at 80℃ using homogenizer VMI for 10 minutes； cooling the mixture to 25℃ at the speed of 0.5℃ to 1℃ per minute.

Evaluation example

The spreadability, non-stickiness, and conditioning effect of the formulas listed above were evaluated, and scores 1-4 were given to each of the effects listed above, by 6 experts, wherein:

1: very poor； very difficult to spread evenly on the hair with hands, a very heavy and sticky feeling on the hand after application, nearly no conditioning effect, the hair is dry and tangled after application when combing or touching；

2: poor； difficult to spread evenly on the hair, sticky feeling on the hand after application, not enough conditioning effect on the hair when combing or touching；

3: good； easy to spread on the hair using hands, no sticky feeling or slight but acceptable residue but non-sticky feeling on the hand after application, good conditioning effect on hair when combing or touching；

4: very good. very easy to spread on the hair using hand, no sticky feeling on the hand after application and excellent conditioning effect on hair when combing or touching.

Stability of the formulas was evaluated by placing the formulas at 45℃ for 2 months.

The evaluation results were as follow.

According to the evaluation results listed above, it is observed that:

The invention formulas have an improvement on the non-stickiness feeling on the hands after application, and conditioning effect on the hair, comparing to the comparative formulas.

Besides, comparing to the comparative formula 2’ , which has a poor spreadability, the invention formulas 1 and 2 have an improved spreadability on the hair.

Claims

A composition for treating keratin fibers, comprising, in an aqueous phase:

a) at least one cationic surfactant of quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions derived from fatty acid；

b) at least one cationic polymer chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides； and

c) at least one silicone.
The composition of claim 1, wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from the compound of formula (I) ,

wherein

R₁ and R₄, identical or different, represent C₁-C₆ alkyl groups, C₁-C₆ hydroxyalkyl or C₁-C₆ dihydroxyalkyl groups, the alkyl group being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated；

R₂ and R₃, identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₆-C₃₀ alkyl group, C₆-C₃₀ hydroxyalkyl group, or a group of formula (A) ,

R’-C (O) -O-R”- (A)

in which:

R’-C (O) - represents a group derived from fatty acids containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms,

R” represents a -CH₂-, -CH₂CH₂-, or a -CH₂CH₂CH₂- group, at least one of R₂ and R₃ represents a group of formula (A) ； and

X represents an anion；

preferably in formula (I) ,

R₁ and R₄, identical or different, represent a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, or dihydroxypropyl group；

R₂ and R₃, identical or different, represent a group of formula (A) wherein；

R’-C (O) - represents a group derived from fatty acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

R” represents a -CH₂CH₂- group, at least one of R₂ and R₃ represents a group of formula (A) ； and

X represents a chloride, methyl sulfate, or ethyl sulfate,

more preferably, in formula (I) , wherein:

R₁ and R₄, identical or different, represent a methyl group, or a hydroxyethyl group；

R₂ and R₃, identical or different, represent a group of formula (A) wherein:

R’-C (O) - represents a group derived from fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms,

R” represents a -CH₂CH₂- group； and

X represents a methyl sulfate.
The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the cationic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.01％ to 10％ by weight, preferably from 0.05％ to 5％ by weight, more preferably from 0.1％ to 3％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the cationic polymer is chosen from the group consisting of copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halides, copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium halides, copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium methosulfate, quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/quaternized dimethylamino propyl methacrylamide copolymers, or cross-linked polymers of methacryloyloxy (C₁-C₄) alkyl (C₁-C₄) trialkyl ammonium salts； preferably chosen from cross-linked polymers of methacryloyloxy (C₁-C₄) alkyl (C₁-C₄) trialkyl ammonium salts, more preferably chosen from cross-linked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, wherein the cationic surfactant is present in amount ranging from 0.01％ to 5％ by weight, preferably from 0.05％ to 3％ by weight, more preferably from 0.1％ to 2％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein the silicone is preferably a mixture of non-aminated silicone and aminated silicone.
Composition of claim 6, wherein the non-aminated silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, or a mixture thereof； preferably chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes； more preferably chosen from linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal hydroxydimethylsilyl groups.
Composition of formula 6, wherein the aminated silicone is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) :

in which,

D is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) , or C₁-C₈ alkyl, and preferably methyl, or C₁-C₈ alkoxy, preferably methoxy radical,

i denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0,

k denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1,

j and l are numbers such that the sum (j+l) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10；

R₃₇ is a monovalent radical of formula -C_qH_2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8, it being possible for one or more hydrogen atoms to be substituted with a hydroxyl group, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups:

-N (R₃₈) -CH₂-CH₂-N (R’₃₈) ₂；

-N (R₃₈) ₂；

-N+ (R₃₈) ₃ Q^-；

-N+ (R₃₈) (H) ₂ Q^-；

-N+ (R₃₈) ₂ HQ^-；

-N (R₃₈) -CH₂-CH₂-N+ (R’₃₈) (H) ₂ Q^-,

in which R₃₈ and R’₃₈ can denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C₁-C₂₀ alkyl radical, and Q and Q^- represents an anion chosen from fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide；

preferably, the aminated silicone is chosen from the compound of formula (III) :

in which:

R₃₉, R₄₀ and R₄₁, which may be identical or different, denote a C₁-C₄ alkyl radical, preferably CH₃； a C₁-C₄ alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy； or OH；

E represents a linear or branched, C₃-C₈ and preferably C₃-C₆ alkylene radical； m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and the sum of which is between 1 and 2000；

more preferably, in formula (III) :

R₃₉ or R₄₁, which are different, represent a C₁-C₄ alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R₃₉ or R₄₁ is an alkoxy radical,

R₄₀ represents a methyl radical；

E represents a C₃ alkylene radical,

m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the aminated silicone is between 2000 and 200 000, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000；

more preferably in formula (III) :

R₃₉ or R₄₁, which are different, represent a methyl or hydroxyl radical, respectively, R₄₀ represents a methyl radical and E represents a propyl, isopropyl, or isobutyl group, n is between 0 and 999, m is between 1 and 1000, wherein the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein the silicone is present in an amount ranging from 0.01％ to 10％ by weight, preferably from 0.05％ to 5％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 9 further comprises at least one fatty alcohol containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, wherein The fatty alcohol (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0％ to 10％, preferably from 0.1％ to 5％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11 further comprises at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 12, wherein the cellulose-based thickening polymer is chosen from nonionic cellulose ethers, preferably chosen from (C₁-C₄) alkylcelluloses； more preferably chosen from hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, or a mixture thereof.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 13, wherein the cellulose-based thickening polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0％ to 3％ by weight, preferably from 0.05％ to 1％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
A process for treating keratin fibers, especially the hair, comprising the steps of applying to said fibers the composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 14.