WO2017008949A1

WO2017008949A1 - Bleaching paste for bleaching keratin fibres

Info

Publication number: WO2017008949A1
Application number: PCT/EP2016/062493
Authority: WO
Inventors: Bernd Anderheggen
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2015-07-15
Filing date: 2016-06-02
Publication date: 2017-01-19
Also published as: DE102015213274A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a paste-like agent for the oxidative colouring and bleaching of keratin fibres, particularly human hair, having a specific composition so as to achieve improved application mixture viscosity and excellent application and bleaching properties. The invention also relates to a combinatorial preparation consisting of the paste-like agent and an oxidation agent preparation, as well as to a method for colouring keratin fibres using the claimed paste-like agent.

Description

"Blondierpaste for bleaching keratin fibers"

The present invention relates to a pasty composition for the oxidative color change or bleaching of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, with improved viscosity of the application mixture and excellent application and bleaching properties. The present invention further relates to a combined preparation of the paste-form agent and an oxidizing agent preparation and to a method of color-changing keratinous fibers using the paste-like agent according to the invention.

The oxidizing agents contained in Blondiermitteln are able to lighten the hair fiber by the oxidative destruction of the hair dye melanin. For a moderate blonding effect, the use of hydrogen peroxide - optionally with the use of ammonia or other alkalizing agents - as the oxidant alone, for the achievement of a stronger Blondiereffektes usually a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and Peroxodisulfatsalzen and / or Peroxomonosulfatsalzen is used.

However, aqueous hydrogen peroxide solutions are unstable at the alkaline pH levels required for the application, so that commercial oxidative dyeing and bleaching products typically consist of at least two components. The first component is an acidified oxidizer preparation with hydrogen peroxide, which is mixed shortly before use with an alkaline second component. For reasons of stability, commercially available bleaching agents are therefore usually offered in two separately packaged preparations which are mixed immediately before use to form a finished application preparation. Conventionally, commercial bleaching agents consist of a liquid oxidizing agent preparation and a powder containing solid oxidizing agents. Alternatively, instead of the powder, pasty agents may be mixed with a liquid oxidizer formulation, thereby avoiding the problems of dusting during manufacture and mixing.

Pasty bleaching agents usually contain larger amounts of an inert oil, which can lead to stability problems (settling of the solid oxidizing agent from the oil). Even with peroxodisulphates which have not yet been completely eliminated, a concentration gradient can occur within the packaging, so that different portions of the packaging can cause different lightening after mixing. To minimize these problems, high viscosity is desirable. On the other hand, the viscosity of the bleaching paste must be so low that it mixes well and quickly with the liquid oxidizing agent preparation. The resulting blending mixture must also be fluid enough to be easily and evenly applied, but thick enough not to drip off the head or application aids such as paint brushes. Too low a viscosity of the application mixture manifests itself in particular in that the application mixture runs from the hairline and results in a pattern which can be referred to as a "bar pattern".

DE 10 2012 201338 A1 deals with the adjustment of the viscosity of oxidizing agent preparations for the treatment of keratinic fibers by adding lipophilic compounds and polysaccharides. The oxidizing agent preparation is mixed with an aqueous coloring cream. As a suitable mixing viscosity, a range of 22000 to 30,000 mPas (22 ° C, Brookfield viscometer, spindle 5, 4 rpm) is given.

Under the trade name Alfapart Alta Moda, a multi-ingredient hair-cleaning kit is offered by Delly Cosmetic Comercio e Industria, Brazil. Also included in the kit is a mild aqueous brightener developer emulsion containing ceteareth-20, cellulose gum, and PEG-40 castor oil.

EP 1034777 A1 discloses an oil-based cream-like bleaching agent which contains polymers which form oleo or lipid gels. With regard to the blonding effect, a degree of lightening of about 4 tone levels is disclosed.

In the case of anhydrous bleaching pastes, the problem usually arises that, when mixed with customary aqueous oxidizing agent formulations, the mixing viscosity is too low, which is accompanied by the above-mentioned problems in use and bleaching.

The object of the present invention was therefore to provide a paste-like agent for bleaching keratinic fibers, which has an improved mixing viscosity when mixed with a conventional aqueous oxidant preparation, so that the application mixture can be applied well, but not again from the hair or application aids such as brushes or gloves dripped off.

This object has been achieved by a specified composition according to claim 1. Such a paste-like bleaching agent, when mixed with a conventional aqueous oxidizing agent formulation, gives a mixing viscosity of 40,000 to 110,000 mPas (22 ° C., Brookfield viscometer, spindle 5, 4 rpm). Furthermore, the paste-like bleaching agent has excellent application properties, in particular consistency, texture, applicability and whitening effect. Embodiments of the invention can be found in the dependent claims and the following more detailed description. The present invention relates to:

1. A pasty bleaching agent for keratinous fibers, containing, based on the total weight of the pasty agent:

(a) 5 to 75% by weight of paraffin oil (s),

(b) 1 to 45% by weight of at least one peroxy salt,

(c) 0.2 to 13% by weight of one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols,

(d) 0.1 to 5% by weight of one or more bodying agents,

(e) 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% of one or more hydrophilic thickeners, and

(f) 3 to 10% by weight of one or more alkalizing agents,

wherein the paste has a water content of 1 wt% or less.

2. Agent according to item 1, which, based on its total weight, contains:

(a) from 30 to 40% by weight of paraffin oil (s),

(b) 35 to 42% by weight of peroxy salt (e),

(c) 3 to 7% by weight of one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols,

(d) 0.1 to 1% by weight of one or more bodying agents,

(e) 2 to 4% by weight of one or more hydrophilic thickeners, and

(f) 4.5 to 7.5% by weight of one or more alkalizing agents.

3. Composition according to item 1 or 2, which contains 3 to 8 wt .-%, preferably 4 to 5.5 wt .-%, fatty alcohol (s), in particular one or more Cetylstearylalkohole.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding points, which 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.3 to 3 wt .-%, polymer (s) from the group of copolymers of ethylene / propylene / styrene, copolymers of butylene / Ethylene / styrene and / or copolymers of butylene / propylene / styrene.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the alkoxylated fatty alcohol (s) (c) from Poyoxyethylenethern of cetylstearyl alcohols having 20 to 60 ethylene oxide groups is / are selected, in particular 25 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, particularly preferably from Ceteareth-30 and / or Ceteareth-50th

6. Composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the bodying agent (d) is a hydrogenated castor oil, preferably a hydrogenated castor oil with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil. 7. Composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the hydrophilic thickener (e) is a cellulose derivative, in particular

- Carboxymethylcellulose, preferably a carboxymethylcellulose with the INCI name Cellulose Gum or

- Carboxymethylcellulose in combination with xanthan gum, preferably a xanthan with the INCI name Xanthan Gum.

8. Composition according to the preceding item, wherein the agent contains as hydrophilic thickener (s) 0, 1 to 3 wt .-% cellulose gum, preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%.

9. Composition according to one of the items 7 or 8, wherein the agent contains as hydrophilic thickener 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight, xanthan gum, preferably a xanthan with the INCI name xanthan gum.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the alkalizing agent (f) is selected from inorganic alkalizing agents such as (earth) alkali metal hydroxides, (earth) alkali metal silicates, (alkaline) alkaline metal phosphates and / or (alkaline) alkali metal hydrogen phosphates.

1 1. A composition according to any one of the preceding points, wherein the alkalizing agent is selected from alkali metal metasilicates, and in particular sodium metasilicate.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the agent has a water content of 0.5 wt .-% or less, preferably 0, 1 wt .-% or less.

13. A kit or combination preparation comprising as one component the pasty agent according to any one of items 1 to 12 and as further component an oxidizing agent preparation.

14. Kit or combination preparation according to item 13, wherein the oxidizing agent composition, based on its weight, 1-15 wt .-%, preferably 4-8 wt .-%, particularly preferably about 6 wt% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% iges H2O2).

15. A method of color changing keratinous fibers which comprises mixing an agent according to any one of items 1 to 12 with an oxidizer formulation to obtain an application mixture, applying the application mixture to the fibers, exposing and rinsing the application mixture. 16. The method of claim 15, wherein the application mixture immediately after mixing has a viscosity of 40,000 to 110,000 mPas, preferably from 50,000 to 90,000 mPas (22 ° C, Brookfield viscometer, spindle 5, 4 rpm).

It has surprisingly been found within the scope of the present invention that by including specific amounts of specific ingredients as described below, an anhydrous pasting agent for bleaching keratinic fibers can be provided, which when blended with a conventional aqueous oxidizer composition provides a suitable mixing viscosity.

By "paste-like" is meant in the present invention that it is not a powdered, so solid means, but on the other hand by the consistency present contained a noticeably higher viscosity than water, so that it is not flowable at normal temperatures, but spreadable The agent can also be described as creamy.

The term keratinic fibers according to the invention comprises furs, wool and feathers, but in particular human hair.

The viscosity of the application mixture should be adjusted so that the application mixture is still thin enough to optimally wet the keratin fibers and to ensure a sufficiently rapid diffusion of oxidant or Farbstoffvorpodukten into the keratin fibers inside, but at the same time is not so thin that the application formulation dripping down from the keratin fibers.

The viscosity of the application mixture is determined by the components contained in the paste-form agent according to the invention. In this case, for example, the type of thickeners used, bodying agents, their amounts used, their respective dependencies of temperature and pH and additional interactions, which can occur when using several thickeners, bodying agents and other ingredients, influence the viscosity of the application mixture. The interactions of the different components of the pasty agent with each other and with components of the oxidizing agent preparation make it difficult to predict the viscosity resulting in the application mixture or make such a prediction impossible. Nevertheless, in the present invention, a composition could be found which gives a favorable mixed viscosity when blended with a conventional aqueous oxidizer composition.

An essential point of the paste-like composition according to the invention for bleaching keratinic fibers is its freedom from water. By "anhydrous" is meant according to the invention a water content of 1% by weight or less, preferred is a water content of 0.5% by weight or less, more preferably 0.2% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.1% by weight .-% Or less and most preferably close to 0 or 0% by weight, which means in each case the content of free, that is unbound, water. It is further preferred that the components used also contain no bound water such as water of crystallization.

The content of free water can be determined according to the invention by means of the Karl Fischer method.

The composition according to the invention contains one or more paraffin oil (s) as the basic constituent ingredient. The paraffin oils, preferably paraffin oils with the INCI name Paraffinum Liquidum, are oils that have a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa (0.02 mm Hg) at 20 ° C and an ambient pressure of 1013 hPa. The total content of paraffin oil in the composition according to the invention is 5 to 75% by weight, preferably 10 to 70% by weight, preferably 15 to 60% by weight, more preferably 20 to 50% by weight, particularly preferably 30 to 40 wt .-%.

The composition according to the invention contains as further constituent one or more peroxy salts as bleach boosters. According to the invention, peroxo salts are inorganic peroxo compounds which are preferably selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal peroxomonosulfates, alkali metal peroxodiphosphates and alkaline earth metal peroxides. Of these, the peroxodisulfates (also called peroxidisulfates) are preferred. Preferred peroxydisulfates are potassium peroxydisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate and / or ammonium peroxydisulfate. The total content of peroxy salt, in particular peroxydisulfates, in the composition according to the invention is 1 to 45% by weight, preferably 10 to 45% by weight, more preferably 20 to 45% by weight, more preferably 30 to 42% by weight, especially preferably from 35 to 42% by weight.

Furthermore, the composition according to the invention contains as component (c) one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols, in particular ethoxylated fatty alcohols. Particularly suitable are fatty alcohols with 20 to 60 ethylene oxide groups, preferably 25 to 50 ethylene oxide groups. Suitable fatty alcohols according to the invention are those of the following formula (I):

wherein R is an unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 10 -C 24 -alkyl group and n is an integer from 2 to 80.

Preferably R is an unsubstituted, saturated C 12 -C 18 -alkyl group or an unsubstituted, monounsaturated C 12 -C 18 -alkyl group. In formula (I), n is preferably an integer from 20 to 60, more preferably n is an integer from 25 to 50.

Examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the formula (I) are laureth-20, laureth-25, laureth-30, laureth-40, laureth-50, myreth-20, myreth-25, myreth-30, myreth-40, myreth-50, Ceteth-20, ceteth-25, ceteth-30, ceteth-40, ceteth-50, steareth-20, steareth-25, steareth-30, steareth-40, steareth-50, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth- 30, ceteareth-40, ceteareth-50, oleth-20, oleth-25, oleth-30, oleth-40 and oleth-50.

The polyalkoxylated or polyethoxylated fatty alcohols are in amounts of 0.2 to 13.0 wt .-%, preferably 2.0 to 8.0 wt .-%, more preferably from 3.0 to 7.0 wt .-% in inventive Contain funds.

It is preferred that the pasty agent of the invention contain ceteareth-30 and / or ceteareth-50 or a combination thereof. In particular, a combination of ceteareth-30 and ceteareth-50 is preferred. Ceteareth-30 is preferably present in an amount of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.2 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.3 to 0.7 wt .-%, and Ceteareth- 50 in an amount of 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, more preferably 2 to 6 wt .-%, more preferably 3 to 5 wt .-%. It has been found that with an amount of ceteareth-30 and ceteareth-50 in the ranges mentioned, in particular with a combination of ceteareth-30 and ceteareth-50, particularly advantageous properties of the pasting agent and of the application mixture prepared therefrom are achieved.

The pasty agent of the present invention contains 0, 1 to 5% by weight of one or more bodying agents (d) other than the other components. The bodying agent (d) is able to impart or contribute to an application mixture, ie after mixing with an aqueous oxidizing agent preparation, in an advantageous consistency. In the present invention, the consistency regulator (d) is to be understood as meaning in particular hydrogenated castor oil, preferably a hydrogenated castor oil with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil. A particularly suitable hydrogenated castor oil according to the invention is commercially available under the name (Cutina® HR, BASF). It was found that in the presence of hydrogenated castor oil in the stated ranges, the mixing viscosity of the application was reliably in suitable ranges of viscosity and very good properties of the mixing application were observed. Other suitable bodying agents (d) which can be used alternatively or additionally are modified or derivatized hydrogenated castor oils. Examples of further suitable bodying agents are the hydrogenated castor oil derivative with the INCI name Trihydroxystearin, which is available under the trade name Rheocin®, Byk Chemie, Iscathix® T (based on a modified hydrogenated castor oil wax, Isca UK Ltd.), or Iscathix® ISP (based on a hydrogenated castor oil). Also suitable is Iscathix® SR (rheological additive based on an organic amide).

The bodying agent, in particular when hydrogenated castor oil (Cutina® HR) is used alone as component (d), is preferably present in an amount of from 0.2 to 1% by weight in the pasting agent, more preferably from 0.3 to 0, 7 wt .-% or 0.4 to 0.6 wt .-%.

The pasty agent of the invention further contains one or more hydrophilic thickener (s). As hydrophilic thickeners in particular compounds from the group of polysaccharides are suitable. Examples include representatives of celluloses (cellulose itself and its derivatives), alginic acids (and their corresponding physiologically acceptable salts, alginates), agar agar (with the agarose polysaccharide present in agar agar), starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose , Amylopectin and dextrins, karaya gum, locust bean gum, gum arabic, dextrans, guar gum and xanthan gum.

Suitable cellulose derivatives are methylcelluloses, ethylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses (such as hydroxyethylcellulose), methylhydroxyalkylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses (such as those with the INCI name Cellulose Gum) and their physiologically tolerated salts.

Preferably anionic polysaccharides such as carboxymethylcelluloses, alginic acids and xanthan gum are selected from the group of polysaccharides for the thickening of the agents according to the invention.

Carboxymethylcelluloses, alginic acids and xanthan gum are referred to as anionic polysaccharides in the context of the present invention, in addition to their physiologically tolerated salts, since the carboxylic acid groups present in these polysaccharides inevitably dissociate to a greater or lesser extent in water or aqueous formulation, forming anionic carboxylate groups whose number increases with increasing pH.

In preferred embodiments, in view of a reliable viscosity adjustment and residue-free application to keratin fibers and the scalp as a hydrophilic thickener carboxymethyl cellulose (preferably carboxymethyl cellulose with the INCI name cellulose gum) is included. Carboxymethyl cellulose can be contained in a preferred embodiment as the sole hydrophilic thickener. However, preference is also given in particular to a combination of carboxymethylcellulose and xanthan (preferably xanthan with the INCI name xanthan gum) or of its physiologically tolerated salts. The hydrophilic thickener (s) are in the composition according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 4 wt .-%, more preferably from 1, 5 to 3.5 wt .-% and completely more preferably from 2.0 to 3.0% by weight. The basis of calculation for the stated quantitative ranges is the sum of all hydrophilic thickeners contained in the pasty agent. In particular, an agent according to the invention is preferred in which these quantities relate to a combination of carboxymethylcellulose and xanthan gum or physiologically acceptable salts thereof.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the pasty agent is characterized in that it is further preferred as hydrophilic thickener (s) from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight 1, 0 to 2.0 wt .-%, more preferably 1, 0 to 1, 4 wt .-%, contains carboxymethylcellulose.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the paste-form agent is characterized in that it contains as anionic polysaccharide in addition to the carboxymethylcellulose in the amounts mentioned further 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 2.5 wt. -%, more preferably 1, 0 to 2.0 wt .-% carboxymethyl cellulose, preferably carboxymethyl cellulose having the INCI name xanthan gum.

As a further necessary ingredient, the paste-form agent according to the invention contains one or more alkalizing agents (f). Preferred alkalizing agents are, for example, ammonia, alkanolamines, basic amino acids, and inorganic alkalizing agents such as (alkaline) alkali metal hydroxides, (earth) alkali metal metasilicates, (alkaline) alkaline metal phosphates and (alkaline) alkali metal hydrogenphosphates. Lithium, sodium and / or potassium are preferably used as metal ions. Preference is given to the inorganic alkalizing agents. Inorganic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, magnesium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.

Particularly preferred alkalizing agent is sodium metasilicate, preferably as anhydride.

The alkalizing agent in the present invention is contained in an amount of 3 to 10% by weight, preferably 4.0 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 5.0 to 7.5% by weight, still more preferably 6.0 to 7.0% by weight.

The pasty compositions according to the invention may contain as further constituent preferably one or more fatty alcohol (s). Suitable fatty alcohols can be selected according to the invention from C10-C24 fatty alcohols. As Cio-C24-fatty alcohols are unbranched or branched, saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, aliphatic alcohols having 10 to 24 carbon atoms designated. Examples of saturated C24-C24-fatty alcohols are decan-1-ol, undecan-1-ol, dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tridecan-1-ol, tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), pentadecane 1-ol, hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), heptadecan-1-ol, octadecan-1-ol (stearyl alcohol), nonadecan-1-ol, icosan-1-ol (eicosyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol), Heneicosan-1-ol and docosan-1-ol (docosyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol). Most preferably, the fatty alcohols are selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetylstearyl alcohol, most preferably cetylstearyl alcohol.

Examples of mono- or polyunsaturated C 10 -C 24 -fatty alcohols are (9Z) -octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9E) -octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z , 12Z) octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z, 12Z, 15Z) octadeca-9,12,15-triene-1-ol (linolenyl alcohol), (9Z) eicos 9-en-1-ol (gadoleyl alcohol) and (5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -eicosa-5,8,1,1,14-tetraen-1-ol (arachidonic alcohol).

The fatty alcohol (s) according to the invention are preferably present in an amount of 3 to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the pasty agent, more preferably 4 to 7% by weight, more preferably 4 to 6% by weight.

The pasty agents according to the invention may contain as further constituent preferably polymer (s) from the group of copolymers of ethylene / propylene / styrene, copolymers of butylene / ethylene / styrene and / or copolymers of butylene / propylene / styrene.

Preferably, said copolymers are not copolymers in which the monomer units are randomly distributed, but block copolymers, particularly preferably diblock copolymers or triblock copolymers. Such block copolymers then have "hard" segments of polystyrene and "soft" segments of ethylene / propylene or ethylene / butylene and propylene / butylene, respectively. The individual blocks may comprise 10 to 10,000, preferably 50 to 5,000 and in particular 100 to 500 monomers. Preferred dicblock copolymers are styrene-ethylene-propylene (S-EP) and styrene-ethylene-butylene (S-EB); Preferred triblock copolymers are styrene-ethylene-propylene-styrene (S-EP-S) and styrene-ethylene-butylene-styrene (S-EB-S). According to the invention it is particularly preferred to use mixtures of diblock and triblock copolymers, with mixtures of styrene-ethylene-propylene (S-EP) and styrene-ethylene-propylene-styrene (S-EP-S) having been found to be particularly preferred. The proportion of diblock copolymers is very particularly preferably from 10 to 90% by weight and the proportion of triblock copolymers from 90 to 10% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the polymer mixture.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the pasty agent contains a combination of ethylene / propylene / styrene copolymer and butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymer. Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a total of preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0, 2 to 0.8 wt .-%, more preferably 0.3 to 0.7 wt .-% of the copolymers of ethylene / propylene / styrene, butylene / ethylene / styrene and / or copolymers of butylene / propylene / styrene contained on the total weight of the pasty agent.

Further customary additives can be contained according to the invention in the pasty blonding agent. These include, for example, care substances, silicon dioxide, titanium dioxide, chelating agents for heavy metal ions, for example ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, surfactants or perfumes, these additives being contained in the usual amounts for such agents.

Tabular overview 1

The composition of some preferred pasty bleaching agents can be seen from the following tables (% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic, unless otherwise specified). Very particular preference is given to the formulations 11 1 b, 12b, 13b, 14b, 15b, 11c, 12c, 13c, 14c and 15c.

Formula 1 b Formula 2b Formula 3b Formula 4b Formula 5b

Paraffin Liquidum 5 to 75 10 to 70 15 to 60 20 to 50 30 to 40 Peroxodisulfate 1 to 45 10 to 45 20 to 45 30 to 42 35 to 42

Ceteareth-30 and / or 0.2 to 13 1 to 10 2 to 8 3 to 7 3 to 7 Ceteareth-50

Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0, 2 to 1 0.2 to 0.8 0.3 to 0.7 0.4 to 0.6 0.4 to 0.6

Cellulose Gum 0, 1 to 5 1 to 4 1, 5 to 3.5 2.0 to 3.0 2.0 to 3.0

Inorganic 3 to 10 4 to 8 4.5 to 7.5 5 to 7 6 to 7 alkalizing agents

Water <1 <0.5 <0.2 <0, 1 <0, 1 or 0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 6b Formula 7b Formula 8b Formula 9b Formula 10b

Paraffin Liquidum 5 to 75 10 to 70 15 to 60 20 to 50 30 to 40

Peroxodisulfate 1 to 45 10 to 45 20 to 45 30 to 42 35 to 42 Ceteareth-30 and / or 0.2 to 13 1 to 10 2 to 8 3 to 7 3 to 7 Ceteareth-50

Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0, 2 to 1 0.2 to 0.8 0.3 to 0.7 0.4 to 0.6 0.4 to 0.6

Cellulose Gum 0, 1 to 5 1 to 4 1, 5 to 3.5 2.0 to 3.0 2.0 to 3.0

Inorganic 3 to 10 4 to 8 4.5 to 7.5 5 to 7 6 to 7 alkalizing agents

Cetyl alcohol, Stearylakohol 3 to 8 4 to 7 4 to 7 4 to 6 4 to 6 and / or cetylstearyl alcohol

Water <1 <0.5 <0.2 <0, 1 <0, 1 or 0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 1 1a Formula 12a Formula 13a Formula 14a Formula 15a

Paraffin Liquidum 5 to 75 10 to 70 15 to 60 20 to 50 30 to 40

Peroxodisulfate 1 to 45 10 to 45 20 to 45 30 to 42 35 to 42

Polyethoxylated fatty alcohol 0.2 to 13 1 to 10 2 to 8 3 to 7 3 to 7 with 20 to 60

ethylene oxide

Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0, 2 to 1 0.2 to 0.8 0.3 to 0.7 0.4 to 0.6 0.4 to 0.6

Cellulose gum and / or 0.1 to 5 1 to 4 1, 5 to 3.5 2.0 to 3.0 2.0 to 3.0 xanthan gum

Inorganic 3 to 10 4 to 8 4.5 to 7.5 5 to 7 6 to 7 alkalizing agents

Copolymer of 0.01 to 5 0.05 to 3.0, 1 to 2.0 0.2 to 0.8 0.3 to 0.7 ethylene / propylene / styrene, Copolymers of

Butylene / ethylene / styrene

and / or copolymers of

Butylene / propylene / styrene

Water <1 <0.5 <0.2 <0, 1 <0, 1 or 0

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

According to the invention, "mise" is to be understood as meaning further usual constituents of bleaching agents, for example care substances, silicon dioxide, titanium dioxide, chelating agents for heavy metal ions, for example ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, surfactants or perfumes, but no water.

For the application of pasty to color change or bleaching of keratinic fibers, the pasty agent is mixed with an oxidizing agent preparation to obtain an application mixture, the application mixture is applied to the keratinic fibers, allowed to act and then rinsed out again. The mixing can be done by stirring in a bowl or a cup or by shaking in a sealable container.

In particular, an aqueous solution containing hydrogen peroxide or an oil-in-water emulsion can be used as the oxidizing agent preparation. Such oxidizing agent preparations are known. Preferred oxidizer formulations contain 1-15 wt%, more preferably 4-8 wt%, most preferably about 6 wt% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100%

According to the invention, the application mixture can be applied to the keratin-containing fibers, left on the fiber at a temperature of from room temperature to 45 ° C. for an exposure time of 10 to 60 minutes and then rinsed out with water or washed out with a shampoo.

The exposure time of the ready-to-use brightening agents is preferably from 10 to 60 minutes, in particular from 15 to 50 minutes, particularly preferably from 20 to 45 minutes. During the exposure time of the agent on the fiber, it may be advantageous to assist the lightening process by supplying heat.

The heat supply can be done by an external heat source, such as with the help of a hot air blower, as well as, especially in a hair lightening on the living subjects, by the body temperature of the subject. In the latter option, usually the brightening lot is covered with a hood. An exposure phase at room temperature is also according to the invention. The temperature during the exposure time is preferably between 20 ° C and 40 ° C, in particular between 25 ° C and 38 ° C. The brightening agents give good bleaching and brightening results even at physiologically compatible temperatures of below 45 ° C.

After the end of the reaction time, the remaining whitening preparation is rinsed with water or a cleaning agent from the hair. As a cleaning agent can be used in particular commercial shampoo, in particular, then can be dispensed with the detergent and the rinsing can be done with tap water, if the application mixture contains sufficient surfactants.

The mixing of the two components can be carried out with the aid of various mixing devices. An established method of mixing in the home user field is to transfer both components into an applicator bottle, to mix them by shaking the bottle into a homogeneous application formulation and then apply over an opening of the applicator bottle on the keratin fibers. In another, often done by the hairdressing method of mixing both components are placed in a mixing bowl, where they are applied to the hair after thorough mixing or mixing with the aid of a brush or an applicette.

Due to the specific and balanced composition of the pasting bleaching agent, especially the addition of relatively small amounts of hydrophilic thickener and polyethoxylated fatty alcohol, the admixture immediately after blending with a conventional oxidizing agent formulation has an optimum viscosity range, preferably in a range of 40,000 to 110,000 mPas, preferably 50,000 to 90,000 mPas (22 ° C., Brookfield viscometer, spindle 5, 4 rpm).

The mixing viscosity may optionally be adjusted or changed easily by changing the mixing ratio with the oxidizing agent preparation. A typical mixing ratio of pasty bleaching agent to oxidizing agent preparation is about 1: 1 to 1: 4, preferably 1: 1 to 1: 2.

In addition to the pasty bleaching agent, the present invention also relates to a kit or combination preparation which comprises, as one component, the pasty agent according to the invention and, as further component, an oxidizing agent preparation.

The oxidizer composition of the kit contains, by weight, preferably 1-15% by weight, more preferably 4-8% by weight, most preferably about 6% by weight of hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2).

The water content of preferred oxidizing agent preparations is 60 to 90% by weight, preferably 65 to 85% by weight and in particular 70 to 80% by weight.

Preferred oxidizing agent formulations contain, in addition to the (aqueous) hydrogen peroxide, further constituents which serve, for example, for stabilizing the hydrogen peroxide, enhancing the bleaching performance or the processability and miscibility of the oxidizing agent preparation.

Thus, it has proved to be advantageous if the oxidizing agent preparation contains at least one stabilizer or complexing agent. Customary and preferred chelating agents in the context of the present invention are, for example, polycarboxylic acids, nitrogen-containing mono- or polycarboxylic acids, especially ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), geminal diphosphonic acids, in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), aminophosphonic acids such as Ethylenediaminetetra (methylenephosphonic acid) (EDTMP), diethylenetriamine penta (methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), phosphonopolycarboxylic acids such as 2-phosphonobutane-1, 2,4-tricarboxylic acid and cyclodextrins, alkali stannates (sodium stannate), alkali pyrophosphates (tetra sodium pyrophosphate, disodium pyrophosphate), alkali metal phosphates ( Sodium phosphate), and phosphoric acid. According to the invention, the complexing agent preparation containing the oxidizing agent preparation preferably contains from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The oxidizing agent preparation according to the invention is usually adjusted to an acidic pH to stabilize the hydrogen peroxide contained in it. As acids mineral acids (such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid or phosphoric acid) or edible acids (such as citric acid, tartaric acid or malic acid) can be used. However, the desired pH can also be obtained by organic acids from the group of phosphonic acids and / or diphosphonic acids, such as, for example, etidronic acid (1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid), or from the group of heterocyclic acids, such as, for example, dipicolinic 2,6-dicarboxypyridine).

Particularly preferred oxidizing agent preparations are in the form of O / W emulsions. As the fatty phase, corresponding emulsions preferably contain a cosmetic oil, in particular a paraffin oil, preferably a paraffin oil with the INCI name Paraffinum Liquidum. This oil is contained in the oxidizing agent preparation, based on its total weight, preferably in amounts of 5 to 25 wt .-%, preferably from 10 to 22 wt .-% and in particular from 15 to 20 wt .-%.

Suitable solubilizers are fatty alcohols and alkoxylated fatty alcohols. The term "fatty alcohols" in particular comprises linear, saturated primary alcohols having 14 to 30 carbon atoms selected from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, 12-hydroxystearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol (arachyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol and myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, in particular technical mixtures Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred Cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol are particularly preferred. preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%, also preferably 0.2 to 2.5 wt .-% or 0.3 to 2 , 0 wt .-% included. Further preferred solubilizers are the PEG derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, the z. PEG Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-35 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-36 Hydrogenated Castor Oil or PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil. Preferred according to the invention is the use of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. This is contained in the oxidizing agent preparation, based on the total weight thereof, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%, also preferably 0.2 to 2, Contain 5 wt .-% or 0.3 to 2.0 wt .-%.

Tabular overview 2

The composition of some preferred oxidizer formulations can be found in the following table (% by weight based on the total weight of the oxidizer formulation, unless otherwise specified).

Under "Mise" according to the invention are further conventional constituents of Blondiermitteln to understand, for example, care agents, silica, titanium dioxide, surfactants or perfumes, but no water.

Tabular overview 3

As stated above, the present invention further relates to a combined preparation of the paste-form agent and an oxidizing agent preparation, and to a method for color-changing keratinic fibers using the paste-like agent according to the invention.

Particularly preferred combination preparations ("KP") can be taken from the following table: The information on the formulas used here refers to the formulas for paste-form agents and oxidizing agent preparations given in the tabular overviews 1 and 2. Thus, the combined preparation 1 ("KP1") comprises ) For example, the paste-form agent of the formula 1 from the tabular overview 1 and the oxidizing agent preparation of the formula 21 from the tabular overview 2.

The mixing ratio of pasting agent and oxidizing agent preparation of the combination preparations described in the following tables is preferably 1: 1 to 1: 4, preferably 1: 1 to 1: 2.

KP1 KP2 KP3 KP4 KP5 pasty agent 1 2 3 4 5

Oxidizing agent preparation 21 21 21 21 21

KP6 KP7 KP8 KP9 KP10 pasty means 1a 2a 3a 4a 5a

Oxidizing agent preparation 21 21 21 21 21

KP1 1 KP12 KP13 KP14 KP15 pasty agent 1 b 2b 3b 4b 5b

Oxidizing agent preparation 21 21 21 21 21

KP16 KP17 KP18 KP19 KP20 pasty agent 1c 2c 3c 4c 5c

Oxidizing agent preparation 21 21 21 21 21

KP21 KP22 KP23 KP24 KP25 pasty agent 6 7 8 9 10

Oxidizing agent preparation 21 21 21 21 21

KP26 KP27 KP28 KP29 KP30 pasty center 6a 7a 8a 9a 10a

Oxidizing agent preparation 21 21 21 21 21

KP31 KP32 KP33 KP34 KP35 pasty agent 6b 7b 8b 9b 10b

Oxidizing agent preparation 21 21 21 21 21

KP36 KP37 KP38 KP39 KP40 pastel medium 6c 7c 8c 9c 10

Oxidizing agent preparation 21 21 21 21 21

KP41 KP42 KP43 KP44 KP45 pasty agent 1 1 12 13 14 15

Oxidizing agent preparation 21 21 21 21 21

KP46 KP47 KP48 KP49 KP50 pasty agent 1 1 a 12a 13a 14a 15a

Oxidizing agent preparation 21 21 21 21 21

KP51 KP52 KP53 KP55 KP55 pasty agent 1 1 b 12b 13b 14b 15b

Oxidizing agent preparation 21 21 21 21 21

KP56 KP57 KP58 KP59 KP60 pasty agent 1 1c 12c 13c 14c 15c

Oxidizing agent preparation 21 21 21 21 21

KP61 KP62 KP63 KP64 KP65 pasty agent 1 2 3 4 5

Oxidizing agent preparation 23 23 23 23 23

KP66 KP67 KP68 KP69 KP70 paste-shaped means 1a 2a 3a 4a 5a

Oxidizing agent preparation 23 23 23 23 23

KP71 KP72 KP73 KP74 KP75 pasty agent 1 b 2b 3b 4b 5b

Oxidizing agent preparation 23 23 23 23 23

KP76 KP77 KP78 KP79 KP80 pasty agent 1 c 2c 3c 4c 5c

Oxidizing agent preparation 23 23 23 23 23

KP81 KP82 KP83 KP84 KP85 pasty agent 6 7 8 9 10

Oxidizing agent preparation 23 23 23 23 23

KP86 KP87 KP88 KP89 KP90 pasty center 6a 7a 8a 9a 10a

Oxidizing agent preparation 23 23 23 23 23

KP91 KP92 KP93 KP94 KP95 pasty center 6b 7b 8b 9b 10b

Oxidizing agent preparation 23 23 23 23 23

KP96 KP97 KP98 KP99 KP100 pasty agent 6c 7c 8c 9c 10

Oxidizing agent preparation 23 23 23 23 23

KP101 KP 102 KP103 KP 104 KP105 pasty agent 1 1 12 13 14 15

Oxidizing agent preparation 23 23 23 23 23

KP106 KP107 KP108 KP109 KP1 10 pasty agent 1 1 a 12a 13a 14a 15a

Oxidizing agent preparation 23 23 23 23 23

KP1 1 1 KP1 12 KP1 13 KP1 14 KP1 15 pasty agent 1 1 b 12b 13b 14b 15b Oxidizing agent preparation 23 23 23 23 23

KP1 16 KP1 17 KP1 18 KP1 19 KP120 pasty agent 1 1 c 12c 13c 14c 15c

Oxidizing agent preparation 23 23 23 23 23

KP121 KP 122 KP123 KP 124 KP125 pasty agent 1 2 3 4 5

Oxidizing agent preparation 25 25 25 25 25

KP126 KP127 KP128 KP129 KP130 pasty means 1a 2a 3a 4a 5a

Oxidizing agent preparation 25 25 25 25 25

KP131 KP 132 KP133 KP 134 KP135 pasty agent 1 b 2b 3b 4b 5b

Oxidizing agent preparation 25 25 25 25 25

KP136 KP137 KP138 KP139 KP140 pasty agent 1 c 2c 3c 4c 5c

Oxidizing agent preparation 25 25 25 25 25

KP141 KP 142 KP143 KP 144 KP145 pasty agent 6 7 8 9 10

Oxidizing agent preparation 25 25 25 25 25

KP146 KP147 KP148 KP149 KP 150 pasty agent 6a 7a 8a 9a 10a

Oxidizing agent preparation 25 25 25 25 25

KP151 KP 152 KP 153 KP 154 KP 155 pasty agent 6b 7b 8b 9b 10b

Oxidizing agent preparation 25 25 25 25 25

KP 156 KP 157 KP 158 KP 159 KP160 pasty agent 6c 7c 8c 9c 10

Oxidizing agent preparation 25 25 25 25 25

KP161 KP 162 KP163 KP 164 KP165 pasty agent 1 1 12 13 14 15

Oxidizing agent preparation 25 25 25 25 25

KP166 KP167 KP168 KP109 KP170 pasty agent 1 1 a 12a 13a 14a 15a

Oxidizing agent preparation 25 25 25 25 25

KP171 KP 172 KP173 KP 174 KP175 pasty agent 1 1 b 12b 13b 14b 15b

Oxidizing agent preparation 25 25 25 25 25

KP176 KP177 KP178 KP179 KP 180 pasty agent 1 1c 12c 13c 14c 15c

Oxidizing agent preparation 25 25 25 25 25

The present invention further relates to a process for color-changing keratinic fibers which comprises mixing an agent of the invention with an oxidizing agent preparation to obtain an application mixture, applying the application mixture to the fibers, exposing and rinsing the application mixture.

Examples

The following formulations were prepared. The amounts are, unless otherwise stated, weight percent.

Pasty bleaching agents:

Tab. 1

The comparative example is a commercially available bleaching composition.

Developer or oxidizing agent composition:

Tab. 2

Ingredient INCI or other developers, 6 wt% H2O2

description

Water Water, demineralized 65.51

Emulgade F Cetearyl Alcohol (and) PEG-40 4.50

Castor Oil (and) Sodium

Cetearyl sulfates

Potassium hydroxide 0.24

Sodium benzoate 0.04 Sodium pyrophosphate 0.10

Dipicolinic acid 0, 10

HEDP 60% 1-hydroxyethylidenes-1, 1-0.31

Diphosphonic acid

Paraffin oil Paraffinum Liquidum 17,00

Hydrogen Peroxide 50% Hydrogen Peroxides 50% 12,20

Total 100,00

The oxidizer formulations of Examples 1 and 2 were mixed in a ratio of 1: 2 with the developer. Further, the oxidizing agent preparation of Comparative Example 1 was mixed with the developer in a ratio of 1: 1.5.

Subsequently, various properties of the resulting blending applications were evaluated by a panel of experienced subjects. The results are summarized in the following table.

Tab. 3

It was found that the paste-like bleaching compositions according to the invention were superior to the paste-like bleaching agent of the comparative example in almost all properties, so that overall outstanding properties were obtained.

Particularly good results with regard to lightening and texture were achieved with Example 1 according to the invention.

Furthermore, the mixing viscosity (22 ° C., Brookfield viscometer, spindle 5, 4 rpm) of various application mixtures was determined at different mixing ratios with the developer. The results are shown in the following table. Tab. 4

With the paste-like compositions according to the invention, it was possible to achieve advantageous mixed viscosities in the range from 40,000 to 110,000 mPas, which are advantageous in the application, under customary mixing ratios with the selected developer.

Claims

claims

1. Paste-like agent for bleaching keratinic fibers, which, based on its total weight, contains:

(a) 5 to 75% by weight of paraffin oil (s),

(b) from 1 to 45% by weight of peroxy salt (e),

(c) 0.2 to 13% by weight of one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols,

(d) 0.1 to 5% by weight of one or more bodying agents,

(e) 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% of one or more hydrophilic thickeners, and

(f) 3 to 10% by weight of one or more alkalizing agents,

wherein the paste has a water content of 1 wt% or less.

2. Composition according to claim 1, which, based on its total weight, contains:

(a) from 30 to 40% by weight of paraffin oil (s),

(b) 35 to 42% by weight of peroxy salt (e),

(c) 3 to 7% by weight of one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols,

(d) 0.2 to 1% by weight of one or more bodying agents,

(e) 2 to 4% by weight of one or more hydrophilic thickeners, and

(f) 4.5 to 7.5% by weight of one or more alkalizing agents.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, which contains 3 to 8 wt .-% fatty alcohol (s), in particular one or more Cetylstearylalkohole, based on the total weight of the pasty agent.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which 0.05 to 5 wt .-% polymer (s) from the group of copolymers of ethylene / propylene / styrene, copolymers of butylene / ethylene / styrene and / or copolymers of butylene / propylene / Styrene based on the total weight of the pasty agent.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the alkoxylated fatty alcohol (s) (c) is selected from polyoxyethylene ethers of cetylstearyl alcohols having from 20 to 60 ethylene oxide groups, in particular ceteareth-30 and / or ceteareth-50.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the bodying agent is a hydrogenated castor oil (INCI).

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophilic thickener is a cellulose derivative, in particular carboxymethylcellulose (INCI: cellulose gum), or carboxymethylcellulose in combination with xanthan (INCI: xanthan gum).

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the alkalizing agent is selected from inorganic alkalizing agents such as (earth) alkali metal hydroxides, (earth) alkali metal metal silicates, (earth) alkali metal phosphates and / or (earth) alkali metal hydrogen phosphates.

A kit comprising as one component the paste-forming agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8 and as further component an oxidizing agent preparation.

A method of color changing keratinous fibers, which comprises mixing an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8 with an oxidizer formulation to obtain an application mixture, applying the application mixture to the fibers, exposing and rinsing the application mixture.