WO2016120658A1

WO2016120658A1 - Hair care composition

Info

Publication number: WO2016120658A1
Application number: PCT/IB2015/000366
Authority: WO
Inventors: Luciana Barbosa OLIVEIRA; Miriam Sayuri SAKAGUCHI
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2015-01-28
Filing date: 2015-01-28
Publication date: 2016-08-04
Also published as: BR112017007944B1; BR112017007944A2

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising (i) two or more amino silicones, (ii) one or more cationic associative polymers different from (i), and (iii) one or more thickening agents different from (ii). The invention also concerns a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, and a use for hair care employing the composition.

Description

Hair Care Composition

The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising (i) two or more amino silicones, (ii) one or more cationic associative polymers, and (iii) one or more thickening agents different from (ii) .

The invention also concerns a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, and a use for hair care employing the composition.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Many people are unsatisfied with the way their hair looks, and have difficulty in styling it. Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing.

Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more

particularly at the ends leading to the apparition of split ends.

Thus, to overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to resort to hair care products using compositions that condition the hair

appropriately, giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially in terms of smoothness, sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good disentangling properties, while at the same time being capable of minimizing the split ends.

These hair care compositions may be, for example, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, masks or sera, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or care creams that are more or less thick.

These compositions may comprise silicones, which are used as conditioning agents, so as to give the hair a satisfactory level of care, especially in terms of softness, smoothness and suppleness, and to manage the reduction of split ends. However, silicones often have the drawback of making the hair very lank and heavy, which leads to the phenomenon commonly known as the "build-up effect" . In other words, silicones become deposited in a large amount of material on the hair, which has the consequence of making the head of hair lank and of limiting the use of silicones for conditioning the hair.

These hair care products may also have the drawback of giving to the hair an unnatural aspect.

Therefore, there is a real need to develop compositions, for example hair conditioners, that do not have the combination of drawbacks described above, i .e . which are capable of treating and positively nourishing the hair, especially sensitized hair, namely by affording it softness, smoothness and suppleness while at the same time leaving it more light and natural and having a long-lasting effect.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

It has been discovered, surprisingly, that it is possible to formulate compositions for the treatment of keratin fibers, which have the desired properties, by combining in these compositions two or more amino silicones, one or more cationic associative polymers, and one or more thickening agents different from the cationic associative polymer.

Generally speaking, it has been found that such a combination allows depositing an effective amount of amino silicones on hair, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair.

For example, the deposits of silicones are effective in resulting in softer, smoother or suppler hair. Also, the number of splits ends can be reduced. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

The present invention relates to a composition comprising:

(i) two or more amino silicones,

(ii) one or more cationic associative polymers, and

(iii) one or more thickening agents different from (ii) .

The composition of the present invention is able to improve the cosmetic properties of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, for example, in terms of softness, smoothness and/or suppleness while at same time giving the hair a more natural look and feeling.

The present invention also relates to a process for treating the hair, comprising the application to the fibers of the composition according to the invention.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as a hair conditioner, preferably used after the application of a shampoo .

The invention also relates to a process for making the composition according to the invention, compri sing combining (i) two or more amino silicones, (ii) one or more cationic associative polymers, and (iii) one or more thickening agents different from (ii) .

Other subj ects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.

" One or more" as used herein means at least one and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations .

"Conditioning" as used herein means imparting to one or more keratinous fibers at least one property chosen from combability,

manageability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, and softness. The state of conditioning can be evaluated by any means known in the art, such as, for example, measuring, and comparing, the ease of combability of the treated hair and of the untreated hair in terms of combing work (gm-in).

The term "hair conditioning" , as used herein, means treating the hair with agents that impart to hair at least one property chosen from combability, manageability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine and softness.

" Silicon-containing portion, " as used herein, includes, for example, silanes, silazanes, siloxanes, and organosiloxanes; and refers to a

compound comprising one or more silicon atoms; wherein the silicon- containing compound may be chosen from linear silicone compounds, branched silicone compounds, and cyclic silicone compounds, which may optionally be substituted. Further, the silicon-containing portion may optionally comprise one or more heteroatoms intercalated in the silicone chain, wherein the one or more heteroatoms are different from the one or more silicon atoms.

"Substituted, " as used herein, means comprising one or more substituents. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

"Keratinous fiber" as defined herein may be human keratinous fiber, and may be chosen from, for example, hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows, particularly hair.

"Polymers, " as defined herein, include homopolymers and

copolymers formed from at least two different types of monomers.

Amino silicone

The term "amino silicone" according to the present invention means an amino portion and a silicon-containing portion. The amino portion can be one or more primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions or a quaternary ammonium group. The silicon-containing portion is as defined above and includes silicon together with carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, and optionally nitrogen. The silicon-containing portion preferably has an inorganic silicon-oxygen backbone with either the oxygen, hydrogen, or organic side groups, such as alkyl groups, attached to the silicon atoms.

Non-limiting examples of amino silicones useful in the invention include those sold under the names Silsoft™ A+ by Momentive (PEG- 40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer) and Silsoft™ A- 1 100 by Momentive (aminopropyl triethoxysilane) .

Thus, a preferred embodiment of the present invention is a

composition comprising PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer and aminopropyl triethoxysilane.

A total amount of amino silicones used in the compo sition according to the invention may be present in a content ranging from about 0. 1 % to about 1 5 % by weight, preferably in a content ranging from about 0.5% to about 12%) by weight and better still in a content ranging from about 1 % to about 8%) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In a composition comprising PEG-40/PPG-8

methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer and

aminopropyl triethoxysilane, a weight ratio of the PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer to the

aminopropyl triethoxysilane is typically from about 0.5 to about 1 5 , preferably from about 1 .0 to about 10 and better still in a weight ratio ranging from about 1 .5 to about 5 , including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

Cationic associative polymer

Cationic associative polymers are water-soluble or water dispersible polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules.

The cationic associative polymers of the present invention are preferably cationic amphiphilic polymers.

Preferably, the cationic associative polymer is chosen from: - quaternized cellulose particularly quaternized

hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising one or more fatty chains, such as alkyl , arylalkyl or a alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms or mixtures thereof,

- quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising one or more fatty chains, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

In a more preferred embodiment, the cationic associative polymer is chosen from quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with at least an alkyl group containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and more specifically from 1 0 to 1 6 carbon atoms, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

The cationic associative polymer is preferably an associative cationic polymer having the INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-67.

POLYQUATERNIUM-67 is offered commercially under the names

SoftCAT™SL or SoftCAT™SK (Dow) .

The associative(s) polymer(s) used in the present invention is preferably present in composition in an amount of from 0.01 wt% to 5 wt%, more preferably from about 0.05 to about 2 wt%, preferably from about 0. 1 wt% to about 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the

composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

Thickening agent The composition according to the invention further comprises one or more thickening agents different from the cationic associative polymer previously described.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickener" or "thickening agent" means any compound whose presence increases the viscosity of the composition into which it is introduced by at least 25 cps.

Preferably, the thickening agent according to the invention is non ionic. The thickener(s) may preferably be chosen from thickening polymers. Preferably the thickening polymers of the invention are non ionic, and the nonionic thickening polymers are non-associative.

According to the invention, the term "non-associative thickening polymer" means a thickening polymer not simultaneously comprising one or more C -C₃o fatty chains and one or more hydrophilic units.

The nonionic non-associative thickening polymers according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. They are chosen preferably from:

(i) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide type,

(ii) vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers or copolymers,

(iii) polysaccharides,

and mixtures thereof.

Among the nonionic homopolymers or copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide type that may be mentioned are polyamides, preferably the products sold under the names : Cyanamer P250 by the company Cytec (polyacrylamide) ; methyl

methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymers (PMMA MBX-8C by the company US Cosmetics); butyl methacrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers (Acryloid B66 by the company Rohm & Haas) ; polymethyl methacrylate (BPA 500 by the company Kobo).

The vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers or copolymers are preferably cho sen from crosslinked vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers such as the Polymer ACP- 1 0 sold by ISP .

The thickening polysaccharides are preferably chosen from glucans, modified or unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables, for instance yellow pea, and tubers, for instance potato or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof (methylcelluloses, hydroxypropyl methyl celluloses,

hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gum arables, gum tragacanths, ghatti gums, karaya gums, carob gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof.

In general, the compounds of this type that may be used in the present invention are chosen from those described particularly in Kirk- Othmer' s Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3 , pp. 896-900, and volume 1 5 , pp. 439-458, in Polymers in Nature by E.A. MacGregor and C.T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1 980, and in Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc. , the content of these three publications being entirely included in the present patent application by way of reference.

Starches, guar gums and celluloses and derivatives thereof are preferable.

The polysaccharides as mentioned before can be modified or unmodified.

The unmodified guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH 1 75 by the company Unipectine and under the names Meypro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by the company Rhodia Chimie .

The modified nonionic guar gums are preferably modified with C i -

C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.

Among the hydroxyalkyl groups that may be mentioned, for example, are hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and

hydroxybutyl groups .

The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1 .2, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. Among the celluloses that are preferably used are hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses . Preferably, the thickening agent is hydroxypropyl methylcellulose .

The thickening agents used in the present invention are preferably present in the composition in an amount of from about 0.05 % to about 1 0% by weight, more preferably from about 0. 1 % to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 1 % to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges

therebetween.

The compositions of the invention preferably comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents chosen from C t -C₄ lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an amount of water which is generally greater than or equal to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably an amount of water greater than or equal to about 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

Preferably, the amount of water in the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to about 95% and preferentially less than or equal to about 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the

composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. The organic solvents are preferably present in a concentration ranging from about 0. 1 % to about 40% and better still from about 1 % to about 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

The pH of the compositions according to the invention generally is basic, and ranges from about 7 to 1 2, most preferably from about 8 to 1 0, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more standard additives that are well known in the art, chosen from surfactants other than cationic surfactants previously described,

particularly non ionic surfactants, moisturizers; emollients, plasticizers, permanent or temporary dyes, fragrances, peptizers, preserving agents, active agents, ceramides or pseudoceramides; oils and waxes, vitamins or provitamins; pH stabilizers, preserving agents ; proteins, sequestrants ;

solubilizers; reducing agents or antioxidants; oxidizing agents; basifying agents, acidifying agents, anticorrosion agents and non-thickening cationic polymers, and mixtures thereof.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional standard additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

These standard additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from about 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion. More specifically, it may be either in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, with the continuous phase being the aqueous phase, or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, with the continuous phase being the fatty phase.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may be used for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular the hair, for example as hair conditioners .

Preferably, the compositions of the invention are rinse-off or leave- in hair conditioners .

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the

composition comprises:

(i) PEG-40/PPG- 8 methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl

dimethicone copolymer and aminopropyl triethoxysilane,

(ii) polyquaternium-67 , and

(iii) hydroxypropyl methylcellulose.

Another obj ect of the present invention is a method of preparing a composition as described above . The method for preparing the composition comprises combining (i) two or more amino silicones, (ii) one or more cationic associative polymers, and (iii) one or more thickening agents different from (ii) during preparation of the composition.

Another subj ect of the present invention is a process for treating keratin fibers, such as the hair, which comprises applying a composition as described above on the fibers in an amount effective to condition the hair.

Preferably, the composition used in the process for treating keratin fibers, comprises :

(iv) PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl

dimethicone copolymer and aminopropyl triethoxysilane,

(v) polyquaternium-67, and

(vi) hydroxypropyl methylcellulose.

Although not wishing to be bound by any theory, it is believed that the polyquaternium-67 helps deposition of silicone, which conditions and restores damaged hair by adhering to the hair fiber, transforming the hair internally and on the surface .

The compositions described above may be used on any type of hair: light or dark hair, natural hair or hair that has undergone a cosmetic treatment such as permanent waving, dyeing, bleaching or relaxing.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is applied on sensitized hair.

The application to the hair of the composition according to the invention may be performed, for example, using a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush or with the fingers.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the application of the composition is followed by drying at room temperature or at a temperature above 40°C .

The drying may be performed immediately after the application or after a leave-on time that may range from about 1 minute to about 30 minutes.

Preferably, the hair is dried, in addition to using a supply of heat, with a flow of air. This flow of air during drying makes it possible to improve the individualization of the coating. During drying, a mechanical action may be exerted on the locks, such as combing, brushing or by running the fingers through the hair.

The drying step of the process of the invention may be performed with a hood, a hair dryer, a straightening iron, etc.

When the drying step is performed with a hood or a hair dryer, the drying temperature is between about 40 and 1 10°C and preferably between about 50 and 90°C, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

When the drying step is performed with a straightening iron, the drying temperature is between about 1 1 0 and 230°C and preferably between about 1 30 and 200°C , including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as a hair conditioner, preferably used after the application of a shampoo or shampoo and other conditioner.

The examples below are given as illustrations of the present invention.

EXAMPLE

Concentrations are given as active raw material.

The composition is applied on hair washed by a shampoo . After final rinsing, hair is softer, smoother and suppler and the number of splits ends is also reduced.

Claims

1 . A composition, comprising:

(i) two or more aminosilicones,

(ii) one or more cationic associative polymers different from (i), and

(iii) one or more thickening agents different from (ii) .

2. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the aminosilicones are PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer and aminopropyl triethoxysilane.

3. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the cationic associative polymer is polyquaternium-67.

4. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the thickening agent is hydroxypropyl methylcellulose.

5. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the amino silicones are present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0. 1 % to about 1 5 % by weight, relative to a total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the cationic associative polymer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 wt% to about 5 wt%, relative to a total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the thickening agent is present in an amount ranging from about 0.05 wt% to about 10 wt% by weight, relative to a total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein a pH of the composition is basic.

9. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the composition is in the form of a light gel-cream base.

1 0. A process for treating hair, comprising applying the composition according to claim 1 to the hair in an amount sufficient to condition the hair.