WO2016116475A1 - O/o emulsion containing microparticles with a break in the curvatured part, compositions comprising same and use of microparticles for stabilizing the o/o emulsions - Google Patents

O/o emulsion containing microparticles with a break in the curvatured part, compositions comprising same and use of microparticles for stabilizing the o/o emulsions Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016116475A1
WO2016116475A1 PCT/EP2016/051060 EP2016051060W WO2016116475A1 WO 2016116475 A1 WO2016116475 A1 WO 2016116475A1 EP 2016051060 W EP2016051060 W EP 2016051060W WO 2016116475 A1 WO2016116475 A1 WO 2016116475A1
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Prior art keywords
oil
chosen
volatile
oils
oily phase
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PCT/EP2016/051060
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French (fr)
Inventor
Léonora HENAULT-MEZAIZE
Cécile TOULOUZAN
Virginie Perez Nowak
Annabelle SERVAIS-DEALET
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2016116475A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016116475A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0245Specific shapes or structures not provided for by any of the groups of A61K8/0241
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/10General cosmetic use
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61Surface treated
    • A61K2800/62Coated
    • A61K2800/621Coated by inorganic compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61Surface treated
    • A61K2800/62Coated
    • A61K2800/624Coated by macromolecular compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/65Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
    • A61K2800/651The particulate/core comprising inorganic material
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/65Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
    • A61K2800/654The particulate/core comprising macromolecular material
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06Lipsticks

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions based on oil/oil (O/O) emulsions.
  • O/O emulsions are generally stabilized with gelling agents or even emulsifying surfactants and/or (co)polymers.
  • patent application WO 2009/150 852 is directed towards an oil-in- oil cosmetic composition comprising a hydrocarbon-based non- olatile oil, a silicone nonvolatile oil and a fatty acid ester of dextrin; said application does not describe O/O emulsions of Pickering type.
  • the emulsions according to the invention thus comprise two different immiscible oily phases, one forming the continuous phase and the other forming the dispersed phase, at least one structuring agent chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, semi- crystalline polymers, dextrin esters and mixtures thereof, and particular solid particles for stabilizing the emulsion by positioning themselves at the interface of the dispersed and continuous phases.
  • the solid particles Once positioned at the interface, the solid particles "block" the dispersed phase, which leads to stabilization of the emulsion.
  • the O/O emulsion thus formed is stable for several weeks.
  • the presence of at least one structuring agent chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, polymeric thickeners, mineral thickeners and mixtures thereof, makes it possible to improve the gloss and to reduce the tackiness of the emulsion.
  • the emulsion according to the invention also makes it possible to dispense with the use, as stabilizers, of compounds of surfactant type, or to limit the amounts therof. Indeed, some of these agents may present toxicity risks to the environment depending on the amounts used.
  • oils used for forming the two phases may be judiciously chosen, and the structuring agents may be chosen, as a function of the intended use of the final product and of the desired properties.
  • a first subject of the invention is directed towards an oil/oil (O/O) emulsion comprising at least:
  • first oily phase comprising at least a first non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils and fluoro oils,
  • a second oily phase comprising at least a second non- volatile or volatile oil, which is immiscible with the first oil(s), at 2 °C,
  • At least one structuring agent chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, polymeric thickeners, mineral thickeners and mixtures thereof, and
  • the invention is also directed towards a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one O/O emulsion according to the invention.
  • microparticles denotes a particle, the largest dimension of which ranges from 0.1 to 100 ⁇ , preferably from 0.1 to 50 ⁇ and even more preferably from 0.5 to 20 um.
  • room temperature is intended to denote a temperature of about 25°C, for example ranging from 18 to 25°C. It is set at atmospheric pressure (i.e. a pressure of 1.013 x 10 s Pa).
  • the compositions and/or emulsions according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a non-toxic medium that can be applied to human skin, and which is of pleasant appearance, odour and feel.
  • the composition according to the invention is a solid composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is a liquid composition.
  • it is a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up the skin, and more particularly facial skin, or alternatively a composition for treating keratin fibres.
  • skin is intended to denote all of the skin of the body, including the lips, and preferably the skin of the face, the neck and the neckline, and also the lips.
  • keratin fibres more particularly means the hair.
  • composition according to the invention is a composition chosen from lip makeup and/or care products, antisun products, deodorants, care products and fragrances.
  • the composition according to the invention is a composition for making up and/or caring for the lips.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants that are common in cosmetics, such as preserving agents, fragrances, fillers, UV-screening agents, which are especially lipophilic, bactericides, odour absorbers, dyestuffs, plant extracts, antioxidants and nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants.
  • adjuvants that are common in cosmetics, such as preserving agents, fragrances, fillers, UV-screening agents, which are especially lipophilic, bactericides, odour absorbers, dyestuffs, plant extracts, antioxidants and nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants.
  • these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into the first oily phase and/or into the second oily phase.
  • the invention is directed towards the use of solid microparticles having at least one curved part and at least one break in the curvature of said curved part, for stabilizing an O/O emulsion comprising at least a first oily phase comprising at least a first non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils and fluoro oils, at least a second oily phase comprising at least a second volatile or non-volatile oil that is immiscible with the first oil(s) at 25°C, and at least one structuring agent chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, polymeric thickeners, mineral thickeners and mixtures therof.
  • the solid microparticles that may be used for stabilizing the O/O emulsion according to the invention have a particular shape; they thus have at least one curved part and at least one break in the curvature of said curved part, the microparticles preferably having at least two curved parts.
  • the solid microparticles that may be used in the present invention comprise several curvatures.
  • severe curvatures means curvatures of different radius.
  • radius of curvature does not cover the "infinity” value " ⁇ "; thus, the microparticles used according to the invention are not in the form of platelets or leaflets.
  • the solid microparticles that may be used in the present invention comprise at least one concave part and at least one convex part.
  • microparticles in accordance with this variant have a form chosen from forms of "bowl”, “golf ball” and “polytope” type.
  • the solid microparticles that may be used in the present invention comprise only one curvature.
  • only one curvature means that when the microparticle comprises several curves, these curves have curvatures of the same radius.
  • the solid microparticles that may be used in the present invention may be mineral or organic.
  • the microparticles that may be used in the present invention are such that their largest dimension ranges, on average, from 0.1 to 100 ⁇ , preferably from 0.1 to 50 ⁇ and more preferably from 0.5 to 20 ⁇ .
  • the largest dimension of the particles which corresponds to a mean dimension over 50% by volume of the particles, may be determined using a laser diffraction particle size analyser (for example Mastersizer 2000 from the company Malvern).
  • the microparticles that may be used in the present invention have a density ranging from 0.5 to 2.8 and preferably from 0.8 to 1.5.
  • the microparticles may be polar or apolar, and are preferably apolar.
  • microparticles according to the invention are generally obtained by radical polymerization or by polycondensation.
  • radical polymerization means a polymerization of at least one ethylenic monomer.
  • the microparticles according to the invention contain, or even are formed from, a polymer chosen from polyacrylates, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and polystyrenes.
  • a polymer chosen from polyacrylates, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and polystyrenes.
  • polycondensation means polymerization between two monomers with elimination of a small molecule.
  • the microparticles according to the invention contain, or even are formed from, a polymer chosen from polysilicones, polyurethanes and polyesters.
  • the microparticles comprise at least one concave part and at least one convex part, the microparticles more particularly having a hollow hemispherical form, i.e. of "bowl" type.
  • the "bowl"-shaped microparticles may comprise or may be formed from PMMA, and/or a silicone material, and they preferably comprise or are formed from a silicone material.
  • the "bowl-shaped microparticles made of crosslinked polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA)” are especially Micropearl® M310 sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • the concave particles present in the O/O emulsion according to the invention may be silicone particles, in particular hollow sphere portions formed from a silicone material. Said particles preferably have a mean diameter ranging from 0.1 ⁇ to 20 ⁇ , preferentially from 0.5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • mean diameter means the largest dimension of the particle.
  • the hollow sphere portions used in the O/O emulsion according to the invention have the form of truncated hollow spheres, having only one orifice communicating with their central cavity, and having a horseshoe-shaped or bow-shaped cross section.
  • the silicone material is a crosslinked polysiloxane of three-dimensional structure; it preferably comprises, or even is formed from, units of formula (I) Si0 2 and of formula (II) R'SiOi.s in which R 1 denotes an organic group containing a carbon atom directly bonded to the silicon atom.
  • the solid microparticles are in the form of bowls and comprise, or even are formed from, units of formula (I) Si0 2 and of formula (II) R'SiOi.s in which R 1 denotes an organic group containing a carbon atom directly bonded to the silicon atom.
  • the organic group R 1 may be a reactive organic group; R 1 may more particularly be an epoxy group, a (meth)acryloxy group, an alkenyl group, a mercaptoalkyl, aminoalkyl or haloalkyl group, a glyceroxy group, a ureido group, a cyano group and, preferably, an epoxy group, a (meth)acryloxy group, an alkenyl group or a mercaptoalkyl or aminoalkyl group.
  • These groups generally contain from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and especially from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • the organic group R 1 may also be an unreactive organic group; R 1 may then more particularly be a C1-C4 alkyl group, especially a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group, or a phenyl group, and preferably a methyl group.
  • Epoxy groups that may be mentioned include a 2-glycidoxyethyl group, a
  • (Meth)acryloxy groups that may be mentioned include a 3-methacryloxypropyl group and a 3-acryloxypropyl group.
  • Alkenyl groups that may be mentioned include vinyl, allyl and isopropenyl groups.
  • Mercaptoalkyl groups that may be mentioned include mercaptopropyl and mercaptoethyl groups.
  • Aminoalkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 3-(2-aminoethyl)aminopropyl group, a 3-aminopropyl group and an ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethylaminopropyl group.
  • Haloalkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 3-chloropropyl group and a trifluoropropyl group.
  • Glyceroxy groups that may be mentioned include a 3-glyceroxypropyl group and a 2-glyceroxyethyl group.
  • a ureido group that may be mentioned is a 2-ureidoethyl group.
  • Cyano groups that may be mentioned include cyanopropyl and cyanoethyl groups.
  • R 1 denotes a methyl group.
  • the silicone material comprises the units (I) and (II) in a unit (I)/unit (II) mole ratio ranging from 30/70 to 50/50 and preferably ranging from 35/65 to 45/55.
  • the silicone material particles may especially be able to be obtained according to a process comprising:
  • step (b) the placing in contact of the mixture resulting from step (a) with an aqueous solution containing at least one polymerization catalyst and optionally at least one surfactant, at a temperature of between 30 and 85°C, for at least two hours.
  • Step (a) corresponds to a hydrolysis reaction and step (b) corresponds to a condensation reaction.
  • the mole ratio of compound (III) to compound (IV) usually ranges from 30/70 to 50/50 and advantageously from 35/65 to 45/55 and is preferentially 40/60.
  • the weight ratio of water to the total amount of compounds (III) and (IV) preferably ranges from 10/90 to 70/30.
  • the order of introduction of compounds (III) and (IV) generally depends on their rate of hydrolysis.
  • the temperature of the hydrolysis reaction generally ranges from 0 to 40°C and usually does not exceed 30°C to avoid premature condensation of the compounds.
  • C1-C4 alkoxy groups that may be mentioned include methoxy and ethoxy groups
  • alkoxyethoxy groups containing a C1-C4 alkoxy group mention may be made of methoxyethoxy and butoxyethoxy groups;
  • C2-C4 alkoxy groups that may be mentioned include acetoxy and propioxy groups
  • ⁇ , ⁇ -dialkylamino groups containing C1-C4 alkyl groups mention may be made of dimethylamino and diethylamino groups;
  • Halogen atoms that may be mentioned include chlorine and bromine atoms.
  • Compounds of formula (III) that may be mentioned include tetramethoxysilane, tetraethoxysilane, tetrabutoxysilane, trimethoxyethoxysilane, tributoxyethoxysilane, tetraacetoxysilane, tetrapropioxysilane, tetra(dimethylamino)silane, tetra(diethylamino)silane, silane tetraol, chlorosilane triol, dichlorodisilanol, tetrachlorosilane and chlorotrihydrogenosilane.
  • the compound of formula (III) is chosen from tetramethoxysilane, tetraethoxysilane and tetrabutoxysilane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the compound of formula (III) leads, after the polymerization reaction, to the formation of the units of formula (I).
  • the compound of formula (IV) leads, after the polymerization reaction, to the formation of the units of formula (II).
  • the group R in the compound of formula (IV) has the meaning as described for the group R 1 for the compound of formula (II).
  • silanes containing an alkenyl group for instance vinyltrimethoxysilane, allyltrimethoxysilane and isopropenyltrimethoxysilane;
  • silanes containing a mercapto group for instance mercaptopropyltrimethoxysilane and mercaptoethyltrimethoxysilane;
  • silanes containing an aminoalkyl group for instance
  • silanes containing a glyceroxy group for instance 3-glyceroxypropyltrimethoxysilane and bis(3-glyceroxypropyl)dimethoxysilane;
  • silanes containing a ureido group for instance 3-ureidopropyltrimethoxysilane, 3-ureidopropylmethyldimethoxysilane and
  • silanes containing a cyano group for instance cyanopropyltrimethoxysilane, cyanopropylmethyldimethoxysilane and cyanopropyldimethylmethoxysilane.
  • the compound of formula (IV) comprising a reactive organic group R is chosen from silanes containing an epoxy group, silanes containing a (meth)- acryloxy group, silanes containing an alkenyl group, silanes containing a mercapto group and silanes containing an amino alkyl group.
  • Examples of compounds (III) and (IV) that are preferred for the implementation of this invention are, respectively, tetraethoxysilane and methyltrimethoxysilane.
  • Hydrolysis and polymerization catalysts that may be used, independently, include basic catalysts such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate and aqueous ammonia, or amines such as trimethylamine, triethylamine or tetramethylammonium hydroxide, or acidic catalysts such as organic acids, for instance, citric acid, acetic acid, methanesulfonic acid, p-toluenesulfonic acid, dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid or dodecylsulfonic acid, or mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid or phosphoric acid.
  • basic catalysts such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate and aqueous ammonia
  • amines such as trimethylamine, triethylamine or tetramethylammonium hydroxide
  • acidic catalysts such as organic acids, for instance, citric acid, acetic acid, methan
  • the surfactant used is preferably a nonionic or anionic surfactant or a mixture of the two.
  • Sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate may be used as anionic surfactant.
  • the end of the hydrolysis is marked by the disappearance of the water- insoluble products (III) and (IV) and the obtaining of a homogeneous liquid layer.
  • the condensation step (b) may use the same catalyst as the hydrolysis step or another catalyst chosen from those mentioned above.
  • a suspension in water of fine organosilicone particles which may then optionally be separated from their medium, is obtained.
  • the process described above may thus comprise an additional filtration step, for example on a membrane filter, of the product resulting from step (b), optionally followed by a step of centrifugation of the filtrate intended to separate the particles from the liquid medium, and then a step of drying the particles.
  • Other separation methods may obviously be used.
  • a rather basic pH and cold introduction of the polymerization catalyst into the mixture obtained from step (a) will lead to "bowl"-shaped hollow sphere portions with a rounded bottom, whereas a rather acidic pH and dropwise introduction of the mixture obtained from step (a) into the hot polymerization catalyst will lead to hollow sphere portions with a "horseshoe"-shaped cross section.
  • bowl-shaped hollow sphere portions are used. These may be obtained as described in patent application JP-A-2003-128 788 or FR 2 902 654. The parts of these applications devoted to particles of "bowl” type and to the processes for preparing them are incorporated by reference into the present text.
  • Horseshoe-shaped hollow sphere portions are described in patent application JP-A-2000-191 789.
  • Figure 1 of FR 2 902 654 illustrates a concave particle in the form of bowl- shaped sphere portions in cross section.
  • the width W2 corresponds to the diameter of the particles.
  • these concave portions are formed (in a section perpendicular to a plane of the aperture delimited by the hollow sphere portion) of a small inner arc (11), a large outer arc (21) and segments (31) that connect the ends of the respective arcs, the width (Wl) between the two ends of the small inner arc (11) ranging from 0.01 to 8 ⁇ and preferably from 0.02 to 6 ⁇ on average, the width (W2) between the two ends of the large outer arc (21) ranging from 0.05 to 10 ⁇ and preferably from 0.06 to 8 ⁇ on average and the height (H) of the large outer arc (21) ranging from 0.015 to 8 ⁇ and preferably from 0.03 to 6 ⁇ on average.
  • the sizes mentioned above are obtained by calculating the mean of the sizes of one hundred particles chosen on an image obtained using a scanning electron microscope.
  • bowl-shaped particles constituted of the crosslinked organosilicone TAK-110 (methylsilanol/silicate crosslinked polymer) from the company Takemoto
  • Oil & Fat of width 2.5 ⁇ , height 1.2 ⁇ and thickness 150 nm (particles sold under the name NLK-506 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat);
  • These particles comprise, or even are formed from, methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer.
  • the concave silicone particles in particular the bowls, have a mean diameter of less than or equal to 5 ⁇ , especially ranging from 0.1 ⁇ to 5 ⁇ , preferentially ranging from 0.2 to 5 ⁇ , more preferentially ranging from 0.5 to 4 ⁇ and even more preferably ranging from 0.5 to 3 ⁇ .
  • the microparticles that may be used according to the invention are fine non-spherical particles in the form of polygons containing at least six concave faces. These particles are characterized by a mean value of the maximum outside diameters of said individual fine non-spherical particles ranging from 0.1 to 20 ⁇ ; a mean value of the ratio between the minimum outside diameters and the maximum outside diameters of said individual fine non-spherical particles ranging from 0.60 to 0.97; and a mean number of concave surfaces, for which the ratio of the relative maximum diameter to the maximum outside diameter ranges from 0.50 to 0.90, ranging from 6 to 14 per fine, non-spherical particle.
  • the fine, non-spherical particles in the form of polygons containing at least six concave faces that may be used according to the invention are also known as "polytopes" or “ossicles", and the largest dimension of these particles preferably ranges from 1 to 10 ⁇ .
  • microparticles that may be used according to the invention are particles of non-(hemi)spherical form, in particular fusiform, also known as "rugby ball”-shaped.
  • a fusiform or "rugby ball” shape relates to a form such as a sphere which is stretched in one direction so as to have a major axis along which the fusiform particle has the longest diameter Li which is between approximately 0.05 ⁇ and approximately 20 ⁇ and two minor axes L2 perpendicular to the major axis and along each of which the fusiform particle has the smallest diameter which is between approximately 0.03 ⁇ and approximately 15 ⁇ , Li/L 2 being between approximately 1.1 and approximately 3.3.
  • the organosilicone material of crosslinked polysiloxane structure preferably comprises, or even is formed from, units of formula (I): S1O2, and of formula (II): R' SiOi.s, in which R 1 represents an organic group containing a carbon atom directly bonded to the silicon atom.
  • the organic group may be a reactive organic group or an unreactive organic group, and preferably an unreactive organic group.
  • the organosilicone material of crosslinked polysiloxane structure also preferably comprises a first, a second and a third siloxane unit which are, respectively, of formula (I): S1O2, of formula (II): and of formula (III): R 2 R 3 SiO, in which R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are any identical or different organic groups, containing a carbon atom directly bonded to a silicon atom; R 2 and R 3 may be, independently, an unreactive organic group or an organic group not containing a reactive group or a reactive organic group or an organic group containing a reactive group. However, R 2 and/or R 3 preferably represent a reactive organic group or an organic group containing a reactive group.
  • the unreactive organic group may be a C1-C4 alkyl group, especially a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group, or a phenyl group, and preferably a methyl group.
  • the reactive organic group may be an epoxy group, a (meth)acryloxy group, an alkenyl group, a mercaptoalkyl, aminoalkyl or haloalkyl group, a glyceroxy group, a ureido group or a cyano group.
  • the reactive organic group may be an epoxy group, a (meth)acryloxy group, an alkenyl group or a mercaptoalkyl or aminoalkyl group.
  • the reactive organic group generally comprises from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and especially from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • Epoxy groups that may be mentioned include a 2-glycidoxyethyl group, a 3- glycidoxypropyl group or a 2-(3,4-epoxycyclohexyl)propyl group.
  • (Meth)acryloyloxy groups that may be mentioned include a 3- methacryloyloxypropyl group or a 3-acryloyloxypropyl group.
  • Alkenyl groups that may be mentioned include a vinyl, allyl or isopropenyl group.
  • Mercaptoalkyl groups that may be mentioned include a mercaptopropyl or mercaptoethyl group.
  • Aminoalkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 3-[(2- aminoethyl)amino]propyl group, a 3-aminopropyl group or an N,N-dimethylaminopropyl group.
  • Haloalkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 3-chloropropyl group or a trifluoropropyl group.
  • Glyceroxy groups that may be mentioned include a 3-glyceroxypropyl group or a 2-glyceroxyethyl group.
  • a ureido group that may be mentioned is a 2-ureidoethyl group.
  • Cyano groups that may be mentioned include a cyanopropyl or cyanoethyl group.
  • R 1 represents a methyl group.
  • the organosilicone material comprises units (I) and (II) in a unit (I)/unit (II) mole ratio ranging from 30/70 to 50/50, preferably ranging from 35/65 to 45/55.
  • the organosilicone material comprises units (I), (II) and (III) such that the mole ratio of the molar sum of the first siloxane unit (I) and the second unit (II) to the third siloxane unit (III) is between approximately 99:1 and 50:50 and more preferably between 90:10 and 60:40.
  • the mole ratio of the first siloxane unit (I) relative to the second siloxane unit (II) may preferably be approximately between 23:77 and 40:60.
  • organosilicone microparticles comprising a crosslinked polysiloxane structure, of spherical overall form and having at their surface a multitude of indentations.
  • the crosslinked polysiloxane structure is a structure in which the polysiloxane units form a three-dimensional network.
  • said siloxane units comprise at least two types of units chosen from units of formula (1), and preferably comprise a unit of mean formula (2); said formulae being the following:
  • R 1 and R 2 represent an organic group bonded to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom; m is an integer ranging from 0 to 3; n ranges from 0.78 to 0.95.
  • the units of formula (1) more particularly represent S1O4/2, R'SiC ⁇ , R ⁇ SIOM and in which R 1 , which may be identical or different, more particularly represent a hydrocarbon-based group such as an alkyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl or aralkyl group, the alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as methyl, ethyl or butyl, preferably methyl, the aromatic group more particularly representing a phenyl.
  • R 1 which may be identical or different, more particularly represent a hydrocarbon-based group such as an alkyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl or aralkyl group, the alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as methyl, ethyl or butyl, preferably methyl, the aromatic group more particularly representing a phenyl.
  • the hydrocarbon-based groups may be substituted with an epoxy or glyceroxy group, a halogen atom, a ureido group, a cyano radical or an amino radical, and preferably a C1-C4 glycidoxyalkyl group such as 2-glycidoxyethyl, 3-glycidoxypropyl, 2- (glycidoxycarbonyl)(Ci-C4)alkyl such as 2-(glycidoxycarbonyl)ethyl, 2- (glycidoxycarbonyl)propyl, 2-(epoxycyclohexyl)(G-C4)alkyl such as 2-(3,4- epoxycyclohexyl)propyl; the radicals comprising epoxy radicals being preferred and also 2-glycidoxyethyl and 3-glycidoxypropyl.
  • a C1-C4 glycidoxyalkyl group such as 2-glycidoxyethyl, 3-glycidoxypropyl
  • the siloxane units represented by formula (1) may be chosen from 1) silicic anhydride, 2) a siloxane unit represented by R'SiCb ⁇ such as a methylsiloxane, ethylsiloxane, butylsiloxane or phenylsiloxane unit, 3) a siloxane unit represented by R ⁇ SiC ⁇ , such as a dimethylsiloxane, diethylsiloxane, dibutylsiloxane, methylphenylsiloxane or diphenylsiloxane unit, or 4) a siloxane unit represented by such as a trimethylsiloxane, triethylsiloxane, tributylsiloxane, dimethylphenylsiloxane or diethylphenylsiloxane unit
  • the siloxane units represented by formula (1) may be advantageously chosen from 1) a siloxane unit represented by such as a 3-glycidoxypropylsiloxane or 2-glycidoxyethylsiloxane unit, 2) a siloxane unit represented by R 1 2 Si02/2, such as a 3-glycidoxypropylmethylsiloxane or 2- glycidoxyethylmethylsiloxane unit, or 3) a siloxane unit represented by such as a 3-glycidoxypropyldimethylsiloxane or 2-glycidoxyethyldimethylsiloxane unit.
  • n in formula (2) ranges from 0.78 to 0.95 and preferably from 0.80 to 0.90.
  • a crosslinked polysiloxane may be formed from units 1) S1O4/2,
  • the preferred crosslinked polysiloxanes being crosslinked polysiloxanes comprising S1O4/2 and R'Si03/2, in which the Si04/2/R 1 Si032 mole ratio is between 5/95 and 22/78 and preferably between 10/90 and 20/80.
  • the organosilicone microparticles have, as indicated above, a spherical overall structure and a mean diameter ranging from 0.1 to 10 ⁇ and preferably from 0.1 to 7 ⁇ . It should be noted that the mean diameter is measured by the laser diffraction/diffusion method.
  • the indentations at the surface of the microparticles may be influenced by the proportion of the siloxane units. When they are viewed from the surface of the microparticle, they may be virtually circular or elliptical, in the form of wrinkles (wrinkle- like) or of irregular form, or even a combination of several forms. However, the microparticles comprising at their surface a multitude of indentations of virtually circular structure are preferred (golf ball appearance).
  • microparticles of this type and the processes for obtaining them are described especially in Japanese patent JP 38 46667 filed by Takemoto Oil & Fat.
  • the solid microparticles used in the emulsion are silicone particles, and even more preferably are bowl-shaped particles.
  • the total amount of solid microparticles comprising at least one curved part and at least one break in the curvature of said curved part ranges from 1% to 10% and preferably from 2% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the emulsion according to the invention comprises two oily phases, a first oily phase comprising at least a first oil chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils and fluoro oils, and a second oily phase comprising at least a second oil that is immiscible with the first oil(s), at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg/1.013> ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
  • the term "immiscible oils” means that the mixing of these two oils does not lead to a homogeneous one-phase solution. Said mixing is performed with the same weight amount of each oil.
  • oil means a compound whose maximum viscosity is 200 000 cPs (200 Pa.s) at 25°C.
  • At least one of the oils is chosen from water-immiscible compounds (mixing performed with the same weight amount of water).
  • the oil(s) are chosen from water- immiscible compounds.
  • the viscosity is measured at 25°C ⁇ 0.5°C using a Haake RS600 controlled- stress rheometer from the company Thermo Rheo equipped with a spindle of cone/plate geometry with a diameter of between 2 cm and 6 cm and an angle of between 1° and 2°, the choice of the spindle depending on the viscosity to be measured (the more fluid the formulation, the greater the diameter of the chosen cone and the smaller the angle).
  • the measurement is performed by applying on the oil sample a logarithmic ramp of shear gradient ⁇ ' ranging from 10 "3 s "1 to 1000 s "1 for a duration of 5 minutes.
  • the rheogram representing the change in viscosity as a function of the shear gradient ⁇ ' is then plotted.
  • the value under consideration is that of the viscosity at 500 s "1 , whether it is measured at this gradient or extrapolated by the plot if no experimental point corresponds to this value.
  • oils are said to be "immiscible" when mixing them leads to a separation of phases according to the following protocols:
  • the two oils to be evaluated are introduced (5 g/5 g) at room temperature into a conical-tipped plastic centrifuge tube (ref. Corning® 1 mL PET Centrifuge Tubes, Rack Packed with Plug Seal Cap, Sterile (Product #430055), which is placed in a Vortex Genie 2 machine. Stirring is performed at speed 10 for 10 seconds, followed by manual inversion of the tube before replacing it in the Vortex machine. This cycle is repeated three times in succession. The mixture is then left to stand at room temperature for 48 hours.
  • a conical-tipped plastic centrifuge tube ref. Corning® 1 mL PET Centrifuge Tubes, Rack Packed with Plug Seal Cap, Sterile (Product #430055)
  • Stirring is performed at speed 10 for 10 seconds, followed by manual inversion of the tube before replacing it in the Vortex machine. This cycle is repeated three times in succession. The mixture is then left to stand at room temperature for 48 hours.
  • the mixture of the two oils (5 g/5 g) is placed in an oven at 50°C for 30 minutes before performing the three stirring cycles described previously.
  • the mixture is observed using a phase-contrast microscope, at room temperature (about 25°C). If a continuous phase and a dispersed phase in the form of drops are observed, the phases are said to be "separated" and the oils are considered as immiscible.
  • the O/O emulsion according to the invention comprises at least a first oily phase containing at least one non- volatile oil, and a second oily phase containing at least one volatile or non- volatile oil.
  • the first and second oily phases each contain at least one nonvolatile oil.
  • non-volatile refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10 "3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • volatile refers to an oil that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • volatile oil means an oil which has a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa, preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa.
  • a preferred embodiment of the invention concerns an oil/oil emulsion in which said first non- volatile oil or second oil, preferably said first oil, is chosen from silicone oils and fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof, and more particularly from non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils; non-volatile phenyl silicone oils, optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment; fluoro oils; or mixtures thereof.
  • Another preferred embodiment of the invention relates to an oil/oil emulsion in which the first or the second non-volatile oil, preferably the second oil, is chosen from polar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils, in particular chosen from non-volatile oils comprising at least one free hydroxyl group or not comprising any, or from non- volatile oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, or from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • the first oily phase comprises at least a first non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils, fluoro oils and hydrocarbon-based oils, or mixtures thereof, and more particularly, in accordance with a first embodiment, from non-phenyl non- volatile silicone oils; phenyl non-volatile silicone oils, optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment; fluoro oils; or mixtures thereof.
  • a first non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils, fluoro oils and hydrocarbon-based oils, or mixtures thereof, and more particularly, in accordance with a first embodiment, from non-phenyl non- volatile silicone oils; phenyl non-volatile silicone oils, optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment; fluoro oils; or mixtures thereof.
  • the first oily phase comprises at least a first hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • This first oily phase may be the continuous phase or the dispersed phase.
  • sicone oil means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-0 groups.
  • polar hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms.
  • fluoro oil means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
  • Non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils are non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils
  • non-phenylated silicone oil or "non-phenyl silicone oil” denotes a silicone oil which does not bear any phenyl substituents.
  • non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils which may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinylmethyl methicones; and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups and/or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
  • dimethylsiloxane (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).
  • these oils may be chosen from the following non-volatile non- phenyl silicone oils:
  • - PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,
  • - PDMSs comprising at least one aliphatic group and/or at least one functional group such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,
  • the non- volatile non-phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from non- volatile dimethicone oils.
  • these non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones and also PDMSs comprising at least one aliphatic group, in particular C2-C24 alkyl groups and/or at least one functional group such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
  • the non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen in particular from silicones of formula ( ⁇ ):
  • R 2 , R5 and Re are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
  • R3 and R 4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,
  • X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical,
  • n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at 25°C is between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10 "6 m 2 /s) and 800 000 cSt (i.e. between 8 mPa.s and 720 000 mPa.s).
  • cSt centistokes
  • non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those for which:
  • the substituents Ri to R ⁇ 5 and X represent a methyl group
  • p and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt (i.e. 450 000 mPa.s), for example the product sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt (i.e. 450 000 mPa.s) by the company Dow Corning,
  • the substituents Ri to R ⁇ 5 and X represent a methyl group
  • p and n are such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt (54 000 mPa.s), for example the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60 000 CS by the company Dow Corning, and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker,
  • the substituents Ri to R « and X represent a methyl group
  • p and n are such that the viscosity is 100 cSt (i.e. 90 mPa.s) or 350 cSt (i.e. 315 mPa.s), for instance the products sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning® 200 Fluid 100 cSt or Dow Corning® SH 200 Fluid 100 CS; or alternatively sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil DM100 dimethicone,
  • the substituents Ri to ; represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt (630 mPa.s), for example the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid TO.7 by the company Momentive.
  • phenylated silicone oil or "phenyl silicone oil” denotes a silicone oil bearing at least one phenyl substituent.
  • phenyl silicone oils may be chosen from those which also bear at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those which do not bear any.
  • a dimethicone fragment corresponds to the following unit:
  • the non- volatile phenyl silicone oil may thus be chosen from:
  • the groups R which are monovalent or divalent, represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.
  • the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three, for example at least four, at least five or at least six, phenyl groups.
  • phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) below:
  • groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.
  • the compound of formula (II) comprises at least three, for example at least four or at least five, phenyl groups.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.
  • phenyl silicone oils which do not bear a dimethicone fragment, corresponding to formula (II) in which at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radicals representing methyls.
  • Such non- olatile phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are in particular sold by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3, 5-trimethyl-l, 1,3,5, 5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane), or the tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning may also be used.
  • - P i to Rio independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, O-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
  • n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.
  • the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100.
  • the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800.
  • q is equal to 0.
  • Ri to Rio independently of each other, represent a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical, preferably C1-C20 and more particularly Ci-Cie alkyl, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C6-C14 and in particular C10-C13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is preferably C1-C3 alkyl.
  • Ri to Rio may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
  • Ri to Rio may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
  • phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof:
  • - Ri to R6 independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, a preferably C6-C14 aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is C1-C3 alkyl,
  • n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.
  • Ri to R6 independently of each other, represent a C1-C30, preferably C1-C20 and in particular C1-C16, alkyl radical, or a C6-C14 aryl radical which is monocyclic (preferably Ce) or polycyclic and in particular C10-C13, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is Ce aryl; the alkyl part is C1-C3 alkyl).
  • Ri to Re may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
  • Ri to R6 may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
  • m 1 or 2 or 3
  • the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils bearing at least one dimethicone fragment.
  • oils correspond to compounds of formula (VI) in which:
  • n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 1 and
  • Ri to Re are methyl radicals.
  • the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyl dimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin-Etsu, KF54HV from Shin-Etsu, KF-50- 300CS from Shin-Etsu, KF-53 from Shin-Etsu or KF-50-100CS from Shin-Etsu.
  • a diphenyl dimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin-Etsu, KF54HV from Shin-Etsu, KF-50- 300CS from Shin-Etsu, KF-53 from Shin-Etsu or KF-50-100CS from Shin-Etsu.
  • phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment correspond more particularly to formula (VII) below:
  • non- volatile phenyl silicone bearing at least one dimethicone fragment p is between 1 and 1000 and m is more particularly such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.
  • Use may be made, for example, of trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker.
  • non- volatile phenyl silicone not bearing a dimethicone fragment p is equal to 0 and m is between 1 and 1000, and in particular is such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.
  • Phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane sold in particular under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556), may, for example, be used.
  • R independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radical; more particularly, R represent a C1-C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical, preferably a C6-C14 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is Ci- C 3 alkyl,
  • n are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.
  • R independently of each other, represent a linear or branched Ci-
  • the groups R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
  • the groups R may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
  • n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VIII).
  • R is a methyl radical.
  • a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25°C of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt), may be used.
  • diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone oil when m and n are between 1 and 100
  • KF56 A from Shin-Etsu
  • the Silbione 70663V30 oil from Rhone-Poulenc
  • phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof:
  • Ri, R2, R5 and Re which may be identical or different, are an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
  • R3 and R4 which may be identical or different, are an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical (preferably C6-C14), with the proviso that at least one of R3 and 4 is a phenyl radical,
  • X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,
  • n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1 , chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular weight of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol. f) and a mixture thereof.
  • the first non- volatile oil is chosen from fluoro oils.
  • the fluoro oils that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fiuorosilicones especially as described in document EP-A-847 752, and perfluoro compounds.
  • perfluoro compounds means compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced with fluorine atoms.
  • the first fluoro oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluoro oils.
  • perfluoro oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of perfluorodecalins and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.
  • the fluoro oil is chosen from perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, and in particular the Fiflow ® products sold by the company Creations Couliv.
  • the fluoro oil whose INCI name is perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference Fiflow 220 by the company F2 Chemicals.
  • the first oily phase comprises at least one first non- volatile oil chosen from the non-phenyl oils of formula (I), the phenyl oils of formula (II), especially (III), of formula (V), in particular (VI) or (VII), and also mixtures thereof.
  • a second embodiment consists in using, as first oil phase, at least one hydrocarbon-based oil, chosen in particular from non-volatile oils comprising not more than one free hydroxyl group or not comprising any, or from non- volatile oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, or from apolar hydrocarbon- based non- volatile oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • the second oily phase comprises at least one second non-volatile or volatile oil, which is immiscible with the first oil, at room temperature.
  • the second oily phase comprises at least one second non-volatile oil, which is immiscible with the first oil(s), at room temperature.
  • This second oily phase may be the continuous phase or the dispersed phase.
  • the second oil(s) may advantageously be chosen from polar hydrocarbon- based non-volatile oils, in particular chosen from non-volatile oils comprising not more than one free hydroxyl group or not comprising any, or from non-volatile oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, or from apolar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • the second oil(s) are chosen from silicone oils that are immiscible with the first oil(s).
  • the non- volatile silicone oils listed in the context of the definition of the first oily phase may be used as oil(s) of the second oily phase. Their description will not be repeated in this part of the text and reference may be made thereto, most particularly for the preferred silicones. 1.
  • Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are chosen from silicone oils that are immiscible with the first oil(s).
  • polar hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms.
  • It may thus contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • hydrocarbon-based non- volatile polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof: a) non-volatile oils comprising not more than one free hydroxyl group or not comprising any
  • the second oil(s) may be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprising not more than one free hydroxyl group, or not comprising any.
  • oils of this type mention may be made of: i) Ester oils
  • Hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and more particularly from 4 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, sesame oil and ximenia seed oil, or mixtures thereof.
  • Synthetic glycerides such as those of capric/caprylic acids, Cis-36 acid triglyceride (Dub TGI 24 from Stearinerie Dubois).
  • Monoesters or diesters obtained from a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic mono carboxy lie or dicarboxylic fatty acid, in particular comprising from 4 to 40 and in particular from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, optionally comprising a free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and from a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic monoalcohol or polyol, comprising from 2 to 40 and in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms (excluding the carbonyl group) being at least 12 and preferably at least 16, the ester comprising at most one free hydroxyl, if it contains any.
  • - Fatty acid monoesters and diesters in particular of C4-C22 and preferably C6- C22, and especially of octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid, and of C3-C6 glycol, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, are also suitable for use.
  • Hydroxylated monoesters and diesters preferably with a total carbon number ranging from 20 to 70, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate or diisostearyl malate.
  • Rl represents a C5-C21 alkyl group
  • R 2 , R3 and R4 which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl group
  • R3 possibly being a hydrogen atom.
  • Pentaerythritol esters of C6-C22 fatty monoacids or diacids for instance the mixture of esters of pentaerythritol and of isostearic, capric, caprylic and adipic acids (Supermol-L from Croda).
  • Polyesters comprising at least three ester functions, of saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, linear, branched or cyclic, optionally hydroxylated, C4-C40 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids and, respectively, of C2-C40 and preferably C3-C40 polyols or monoalcohols; said polyester optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl.
  • oils comprising three ester functions, of a monohydroxylated acid comprising three carboxylic functions, and of a C 2 - C4 monoalcohol, in particular triethyl citrate.
  • Esters of branched fatty alcohols or of branched fatty acids are also suitable for use.
  • polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid triglyceride with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, which is optionally unsaturated, for instance the succinic acid and isostearic acid castor oil sold under the reference Zenigloss by Zenitech.
  • the second oil(s) may be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups and preferably at least three free hydroxyl groups.
  • the second oil(s) also comprise at least one ester function.
  • suitable oils include:
  • hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups and advantageously at least three free hydroxyl groups, for instance castor oil;
  • R 1 represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid
  • R 2 represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue
  • h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9
  • polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol in particular such as of dilinoleic acid and of 1,4-butanediol.
  • an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol in particular such as of dilinoleic acid and of 1,4-butanediol.
  • the second hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are chosen from polyhydroxylated alcohols, preferably of C2-C8 and more preferably of C3-C6, comprising two to three hydroxyl groups, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diglycerol, and a mixture thereof.
  • the O/O emulsion according to the invention may also comprise, as oil(s) present in the second oily phase, at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • apolar oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and not containing any oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or fluorine atoms.
  • apolar oil preferably a hydrogenated apolar oil contains only carbon atoms and hydrogen.
  • the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:
  • the O/O emulsion according to the invention may also comprise, as oil(s) present in the second oily phase, at least one volatile silicone or hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • these volatile oils especially facilitate the application of the composition to the skin, the lips or the integuments.
  • oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendent or at the end of the silicone chain, or a mixture of these oils.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 cSt and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisilo xane, hexamethyldisilo xane, o ctamethyltrisilo xane , decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, especially branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes such as Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, and mixtures thereof.
  • isododecane Permethyl 99 A
  • Cs-Ci6 isoparaffins such as Isopar L, E, G or H, or mixtures thereof, optionally combined with decamethyltetrasiloxane or with cyclopentasiloxane.
  • the emulsion according to the invention more particularly comprises from 5% to 95% by weight and preferably from 30% to 70% by weight of the oil(s) of the first oily phase, relative to the weight of the emulsion.
  • the emulsion according to the invention more particularly comprises from 5% to 95% by weight and preferably from 30% to 70% by weight of the oil(s) of the second oily phase, relative to the weight of the emulsion.
  • the second oily phase comprises at least one non- volatile oil.
  • the content of volatile oil of the second oily phase represents from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the emulsion.
  • the weight ratio of the oil(s) of the first oily phase relative to the oil(s) of the second oily phase represents from 5/95 to 95/5 and preferably from 30/70 to 70/30.
  • the O/O emulsion comprises a first oily phase containing at least a first oil chosen from non- volatile silicone oils and a second oily phase containing at least a second oil chosen from non- volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • the apolar oils are chosen from oils with a viscosity of at least 50 cPs, preferably of at least 60 cPs.
  • the apolar non-volatile oil(s) are chosen from hydrogenated or non- hydrogenated polydecenes and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, or mixtures thereof.
  • the O/O emulsion comprises a first oily phase containing at least a first oil chosen from non-phenyl nonvolatile silicone oils or phenyl non-volatile silicone oils bearing at least one dimethicone fragment, and a second oily phase containing at least a second oil chosen from non- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprising not more than one free hydroxyl group or not comprising any.
  • non-phenyl non- volatile silicone oils they may preferably be chosen from the silicone oils of formula ( ⁇ ).
  • non- volatile phenyl silicone oils comprising at least one dimethicone fragment
  • they may be chosen from the compounds of formula (I) with radicals R such that the silicone is phenylated and comprises at least one dimethicone fragment
  • radicals R such that the silicone is phenylated and comprises at least one dimethicone fragment
  • IV with radicals R such that the silicone is phenylated and comprises at least one dimethicone fragment
  • IV with non-zero p, in particular (VI) with non-zero p and especially the variants (A) and (B);
  • the second oil(s) are chosen from non-volatile ester oils i), fatty alcohols ii) and mixtures thereof.
  • the O/O emulsion comprises a first oily phase containing at least a first oil chosen from non- volatile silicone oils and a second oily phase containing at least a second oil chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon- based oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups and preferably at least three free hydroxyl groups. More particularly, said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprise at least one carboxylic ester group. Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprising three ester functions, of a monohydroxylated acid comprising three carboxylic functions and of a C2-C4 monoalcohol, are also suitable in this variant, as second oil(s).
  • the O/O emulsion comprises a first oily phase containing at least a first oil chosen from phenyl nonvolatile silicone oils not bearing a dimethicone fragment, and a second oily phase containing at least a second oil chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups and preferably at least three free hydroxyl groups, or from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils and even more particularly at least a second oil chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, and preferably at least three free hydroxyl groups.
  • the apolar non- volatile oil(s) are chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils are chosen from oils with a viscosity of at least 50 cPs, in particular of at least 60 cPs.
  • the O/O emulsion comprises at least a first polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and at least a second volatile or non-volatile oil, preferably from apolar non- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • the first polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are chosen from ester oils comprising not more than one free hydroxyl group or not comprising any, and preferably from oils also comprising at least three ester functions.
  • the first polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) may also be chosen from oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups and at least one ester function, or from polyhydroxylated alcohols, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the second non-volatile apolar oil(s) are preferably chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, or mixtures thereof.
  • the O/O emulsion comprises a first oily phase comprising at least one non-phenyl non-volatile silicone oil and a second oily phase containing at least one phenyl non-volatile silicone oil optionally bearing a dimethicone fragment, or at least one volatile silicone oil.
  • the 0/0 emulsion comprises a first oily phase comprising at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil not bearing a dimethicone fragment, and a second oily phase containing at least one nonvolatile phenyl silicone oil bearing at least one dimethicone fragment, or at least one volatile silicone oil.
  • the first non- volatile phenyl silicone oil(s) not bearing a dimethicone fragment are chosen from the compounds of formula (II).
  • the second non-volatile silicone oil(s) bearing at least one dimethicone fragment they are advantageously chosen from the oils i) of formula (VI), more particularly B) with, for example, the silicones of formula (VII).
  • the 0/0 emulsion may comprise at least one volatile oil. More particularly, the first oily phase and/or the second oily phase may comprise at least one volatile oil. It should be noted that the second oily phase may comprise only volatile oils. Reference may be made to that which has been detailed previously regarding the nature of these oils.
  • the 0/0 emulsion according to the present invention comprises at least one structuring agent chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, polymeric thickeners and mineral thickeners, and mixtures thereof.
  • the structuring agent may be incorporated into one and/or the other of the oily phases of the 0/0 emulsion according to the invention.
  • the structuring agent is present in the continuous oily phase of the emulsion.
  • the structuring agent is more particularly chosen as a function of the oil(s) into which it is incorporated.
  • the structuring agent is chosen such that it is compatible with the oil into which it is incorporated.
  • the emulsion according to the invention may comprise at least one wax.
  • the wax is chosen such that it is compatible with the oil into which it is incorporated.
  • wax is understood, within the meaning of the present invention, to mean a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 120°C.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measuring protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature.
  • the melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the wax may especially have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 1 MPa.
  • the hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force, measured at 20°C using the texture analyser sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm, travelling at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/second, and penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
  • the waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, silicone waxes or fluoro waxes, and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
  • the waxes have a melting point of greater than 30°C and better still greater than 45°C.
  • apolar wax means a wax whose solubility parameter 8a at 25°C as defined below is equal to 0 (J/cm )1 ⁇ 2.
  • the apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon-based waxes formed solely from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.
  • apolar wax means a wax that is formed solely from apolar wax, rather than a mixture also comprising other types of waxes that are not apolar waxes.
  • hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes and micro waxes, especially polyethylene waxes.
  • Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies, and Asensa SC 211 sold by Honeywell.
  • Cirebelle 108 sold by Cirebelle.
  • Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P An ozokerite that may be mentioned is Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.
  • micro waxes that may be used in the O/O emulsions according to the invention as apolar wax, mention may be made especially of polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders.
  • polar wax means a wax whose solubility parameter 5a at 25°C is other than 0 (J/cm )1 ⁇ 2.
  • polar wax means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
  • the parameters ⁇ , 6h, 6D and 5a are expressed in (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon-based, fluoro or silicone waxes, and preferably hydrocarbon-based or silicone waxes.
  • silicon wax means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, especially comprising Si-0 groups.
  • hydrocarbon-based wax means a wax formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the polar wax is a hydrocarbon- based wax.
  • hydrocarbon-based polar wax a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is in particular preferred.
  • ester wax means a wax comprising at least one ester function.
  • the ester oils may also be hydroxylated.
  • alcohol wax means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
  • ester wax The following may especially be used as ester wax:
  • waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which Rl and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and the melting point of which varies from 25°C to 120°C.
  • Rl and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and the melting point of which varies from 25°C to 120°C.
  • an ester wax of a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate.
  • Such waxes are especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypoly ester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K
  • Use may also be made of a glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by the company Clariant.
  • octacosanoate such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by the company Clariant.
  • dicarboxylic acid diester waxes of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturated groups.
  • the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and also the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim.
  • Such waxes are described in patent application FR- A-2 792 190.
  • Mention may be made, as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, of those sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57.
  • total esters means that all the hydroxyl functions of glycerol are esterified.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include trihydroxystearine (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearine (or glyceryl tristearate) and tribehenine (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture.
  • trihydroxystearine or glyceryl trihydroxystearate
  • tristearine or glyceryl tristearate
  • tribehenine or glyceryl tribehenate
  • suitable compounds mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and of 12-hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil, for instance Thixcin R and Thixcin E sold by Elementis Specialties.
  • Mention may also be made of beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polar wax may be an alcohol wax.
  • Alcohol waxes that may be mentioned include alcohols, which are preferably linear and preferably saturated, comprising from 16 to 60 carbon atoms, with a melting point of between 25 and 120°C. Examples that may be mentioned include the wax Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol or arachidyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
  • silicon wax means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-0 groups.
  • silicone waxes of this type mention may be made especially of those sold under the names Abilwax 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin-Etsu), or 176-11481 (General Electric).
  • the silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones, and also (C2o-C6o)alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C3o-C4s)alkyl dimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones or C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane under the name SW-8005 ® C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Corning.
  • silicone waxes obtained by esterification with a (poly)alkoxylated silicone, such as silicone beeswax, silicone candelilla wax or silicone carnauba wax.
  • the content of wax(es) is preferably between 0.1% and 20%, preferentially 0.5% and 15% and more particularly 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
  • the emulsion according to the invention may comprise at least one compound that is pasty at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.
  • the pasty compound is chosen such that it is compatible with the oil into which it is incorporated.
  • At least one pasty compound which, when it is mixed with at least one oil (first oil(s) or second oil(s)) (pasty compound/oil proportion: 10/90; 10 g sample) at a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of said pasty compound, leads to the production of a homogeneous mixture.
  • the term "pasty” refers to a compound that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the starting melting point of the pasty compound can be less than 23°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23°C can represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This liquid fraction at 23 °C preferably represents between 15% and 85% and more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of a pasty compound may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measuring protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of pasty compound placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the pasty compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the heat consumed by the compound in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form.
  • the pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instrument, with a temperature rise of 5°C or 10°C per minute, according to the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to make the pasty compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 2°C, formed from a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the pasty compound, preferably from 50% to 100% and more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the pasty compound.
  • the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
  • the heat of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C.
  • the pasty compound is more particularly chosen as a function of the oil(s) into which it is incorporated.
  • the pasty compound may in particular be chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin.
  • the pasty compound(s) may be chosen in particular from:
  • lanolin and derivatives thereof such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins;
  • polyol ethers chosen from C2-C4 polyalkylene glycol pentaerythrityl ethers, fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyethylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising 5 oxyethylene units (5 OE)
  • polypropylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising five oxypropylene (5 OP) units CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether
  • CTFA name PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether
  • linear or branched oligomers which are homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (metfi)acrylates preferably containing a C8-C30 alkyl group,
  • ⁇ oligomers which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C8-C30 alkyl groups, and
  • ⁇ oligomers which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers containing C8-C30 alkyl groups
  • liposoluble polyethers that are particularly considered are copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C6-C30 long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30.
  • copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides arranged in blocks with an average molecular weight from 1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel,
  • esters the following are especially considered:
  • esters of a glycerol oligomer especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of diglycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, for instance bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the reference Softisan ® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo, - vinyl ester homopolymers bearing C8-C30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (sold especially under the reference Mexomer PP by the company Chimex),
  • esters of diol dimer and of diacid dimer where appropriate esterified on the free alcohol or acid function(s) thereof with acid or alcohol radicals, especially dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may be chosen especially from the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof,
  • - butters of plant origin such as mango butter, such as the product sold under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sahara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sahara), cocoa butter; and also orange wax, for instance the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,
  • - totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils for instance hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated plant oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed plant oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the product sold under the reference Cegesoft® HF 52 from BASF (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,
  • hydrogenated castor oil esters such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example Risocast-DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCISV-L sold by Nisshin Oillio, and mixtures thereof.
  • the pasty compounds that are suitable for use in the invention are chosen from hydrocarbon-based compounds and comprise, besides carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least oxygen atoms.
  • the pasty compounds therefore do not comprise any silicon atoms or any fluorine atoms.
  • the pasty compound(s) are chosen from lanolin and derivatives thereof, esters of glycerol oligomers, butters of plant origin, totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils, and hydrogenated castor oil esters, or mixtures thereof.
  • the content of pasty compound(s) is preferably between 0.1% and 30%> by weight, preferentially 0.5% and 20% by weight and more particularly 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
  • organopolysiloxane elastomers examples include organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, hydrocarbon-based polyamides, silicone polyamides and dextrin esters, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the polymeric thickener is chosen such that it is compatible with the oil into which it is incorporated.
  • polymeric thickener which, when it is mixed with at least one oil (first oil(s) or second oil(s)) (polymeric thickener/oil proportion: 10/90; 10 g sample) at a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of said polymeric thickener, leads to the production of a homogeneous mixture.
  • first oil(s) or second oil(s) polymeric thickener/oil proportion: 10/90; 10 g sample
  • the choice of the polymeric thickener may advantageously be made as a function of the nature of the oils present. For example, if the oil is hydrocarbon-based, it may be advantageous to choose a hydrocarbon-based polymeric thickener, and if the oil is silicone-based, it may be advantageous to choose a silicone polymeric thickener.
  • the content of polymeric thickener(s), expressed as solids more particularly ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer that may be used as polymeric thickener also has the advantage of giving the composition according to the invention good application properties. It affords a very soft feel and a matt effect after application, which is advantageous especially for application to the skin, in particular for foundation compositions. It may also allow efficient filling of the hollows present on keratin materials.
  • organopolysiloxane elastomer or "silicone elastomer” means a supple, deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties and especially with the consistency of a sponge or a supple sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has limited stretchability and contractability. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high- energy radiation such as gamma rays
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for instance, in patent application EP-A-295 886.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane bearing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane bearing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is performed by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).
  • Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.
  • Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.
  • Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be readily miscible with compound (B).
  • the organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2- phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl
  • substituted alkyl groups such as 2- phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl
  • aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl
  • substituted aryl groups
  • Compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methyl- hydrogenosiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.
  • Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
  • the organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear-chain structure is preferred.
  • Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state.
  • compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.
  • the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • the organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes bearing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers bearing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane- methylvinylsiloxane copolymers bearing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers bearing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers bearing trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes bearing dimethylvinylsiloxy end
  • the elastomeric organopolysiloxane may be obtained via reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and of trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.
  • compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio of the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) to the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range from 1.5/1 to 20/1.
  • Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefm complexes, chloroplatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
  • Catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
  • the elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.
  • non-emulsifying defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing any hydrophilic chains, and in particular not containing any polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxy ethylene or polyoxypropylene) or any polyglyceryl units.
  • the O/O emulsion comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer free of polyoxyalkylene units and of polyglyceryl units.
  • silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name).
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may be conveyed in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon- based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.
  • Non-emulsifying elastomers are described especially in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in patent application JP-A-61-194009, the content of which is incorporated by way of reference.
  • the silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder, but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone oil (dimethicone) or cyclic silicone oil (e.g.: cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.
  • a linear silicone oil dimethicone
  • cyclic silicone oil e.g.: cyclopentasiloxane
  • Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used more particularly include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC9040 and DC9041 by the company Dow Corning, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.
  • a gel of silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 500 cSt, optionally modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
  • a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenyl methicone,
  • dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone such as
  • KSG-6 and KSG-16 from the company Shin-Etsu;
  • dimethicone crosspolymer such as DC9040, DC9045 and DC5930 from the company Dow Corning;
  • dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer such as DC9041 from the company Dow Corning
  • dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, such as KSG-6 and KSG-16 from the company Shin-Etsu;
  • dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer such as DC9041 from the company Dow Corning.
  • the O/O emulsion according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer having the INCI name "dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer", preferably with a dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cSt, in particular from 1 to 10 cSt at 25°C, such as the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt) sold under the name DC 9041 by the company Dow Corning.
  • organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may also be used in powder form: mention may be made of the powders sold under the names Dow Corning 9505 Powder and Dow Corning 9506 Powder by the company Dow Corning, these powders having the INCI name: dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
  • the organopolysiloxane powder may also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in patent US 5 538 793.
  • silsesquioxane resin as described, for example, in patent US 5 538 793.
  • Such elastomeric powders are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, SP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the company Shin-Etsu, and have the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer.
  • the O/O emulsion according to the invention may comprise at least one semi- crystalline polymer.
  • the semi-crystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C.
  • the term "semi-crystalline polymer” means polymers comprising a crystalhzable portion and an amorphous portion and having a first- order reversible change of phase temperature, in particular of melting point (solid-liquid transition).
  • the crystalhzable part is either a side chain (or pendent chain) or a block in the backbone.
  • the semi-crystalline polymer When the crystalhzable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a block of the polymer backbone, this crystalhzable block has a chemical nature different than that of the amorphous blocks; in this case, the semi-crystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystalhzable portion is a chain that is pendent on the backbone, the semicrystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.
  • the melting point of the semicrystalline polymer is preferably less than 150°C.
  • the melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30°C and less than 100°C. More preferably, the melting point of the semi- crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30°C and less than 70°C.
  • the semi-crystalline polymer(s) according to the invention are solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C.
  • the melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler, with a temperature rise of 5°C or 10°C per minute. (The melting point under consideration is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram).
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the semi-crystalline polymer(s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point that is higher than the temperature of the keratin support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin or the lips.
  • the term " ' crystallizable chain or block” means a chain or block which, if it were alone, would change from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly, depending on whether the temperature is above or below the melting point.
  • a chain is a group of atoms, which are pendent or lateral relative to the polymer backbone.
  • a “block” is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, this group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.
  • the polymer backbone of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the oily phase at a temperature above their melting point.
  • the crystallizable blocks or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%.
  • the semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable side chains are homopolymers or copolymers.
  • the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention bearing crystallizable blocks are block or multiblock copolymers. They may be obtained by polymerizing a monomer bearing reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers bearing crystallizable side chains, these side chains are advantageously in random or statistical form.
  • the semicrystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin.
  • the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from: - homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chain(s),
  • the semi- crystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from:
  • - acrylate/silicone copolymers such as copolymers of acrylic acid and of stearyl acrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and of stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may be made in particular of the copolymers sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the names KP-561 (CTFA name: acrylates/dimethicone),
  • Hydrocarbon-based polyamide for the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer” means a compound containing at least two repeating units, preferably at least three repeating units and better still ten repeating units.
  • polyamide means a compound containing at least two, preferably at least three and better still ten amide repeating units.
  • hydrocarbon-based polyamide means a polyamide formed essentially of, indeed even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not comprising any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the term "functionalized chain” means an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional groups or reagents chosen especially from hydroxyl, ether, ester, oxyalkylene and polyoxyalkylene groups.
  • this polyamide of the emulsion according to the invention has a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100 000 g/mol, especially ranging from 1000 to 100 000 g/mol, in particular ranging from 1000 to 50 000 g/mol, more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30 000 g/mol, preferably from 2000 to 20 000 g/mol and better still from 2000 to 10 000 g/mol.
  • This polyamide is insoluble in water, especially at 25°C.
  • the polyamide is a compound (i), namely a hydrocarbon-based polyamide, in particular a non-silicone polyamide, of formula (la) below: in which n denotes a whole number of amide units such that the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups; Ri is, independently in each case, an alkyl or alkenyl group containing at least 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 4 to 24 carbon atoms; R2 represents, independently in each case, a
  • C4 to C42 hydrocarbon-based group on condition that 50% of the groups R2 represent a C30 to C42 hydrocarbon-based group;
  • R3 represents, independently in each case, an organic group containing at least 2 carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms;
  • R4 represents, independently in each case, a hydrogen atom, a Ci to Cio alkyl group or a direct bond to R3 or to another R4, such that the nitrogen atom to which R3 and R4 are both attached forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R4NR3, with at least 50% of the groups R4 representing a hydrogen atom.
  • the optionally functionalized terminal fatty chains are terminal chains linked to the last heteroatom, in this case nitrogen, of the polyamide backbone.
  • ester groups of formula (I), which form part of the terminal and/or pendent fatty chains represent from 15% to 40% of the total number of ester and amide groups and better still from 20% to 35%>.
  • n advantageously represents an integer ranging from 1 to 5 and better still greater than 2.
  • Ri is a C12 to C22 and preferably Ci6 to C22 alkyl group.
  • R2 may be a Go to C42 hydrocarbon-based, preferably alkylene, group.
  • R2 is a divalent radical derived from acid dimer.
  • at least 50% and better still at least 75% of the groups R2 are groups containing from 30 to 42 carbon atoms.
  • R 2 are C 4 to C19 and even C4 to C12 hydrogen-containing groups.
  • R3 represents a C 2 to C36 hydrocarbon- based group or a polyoxyalkylene group and R4 represents a hydrogen atom.
  • R3 represents a C2 to C12, preferably C 2 , hydrocarbon-based group.
  • the hydrocarbon-based groups may be linear, cyclic or branched, and saturated or unsaturated groups.
  • the alkyl and alkylene groups may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated groups.
  • the hydrocarbon-based polyamide of formula (la) is such that n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, preferably greater than 2, Ri is a C12 to C 22 and preferably Ci6 to C22 alkyl group, R2 is a Go to C42 hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a divalent radical derived from acid dimer, R3 represents a C2 to C12, preferably C2, hydrocarbon- based group, and R4 represents a hydrogen atom.
  • the polyamides of formula (la) are in the form of mixtures of polyamides, these mixtures also possibly containing a synthetic product corresponding to a compound of formula (la) in which n is 0, i.e. a diester.
  • hydrocarbon-based polyamides of formula (la) that may be used in the emulsions according to the invention, mention may be made of the commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100, the INCI name of which is ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer, or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, the INCI name of which is ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer tallate copolymer. They are sold, respectively, in the form of a gel at 80% active material in a mineral oil and at 100% active material. They have a softening point of from 88 to 94°C.
  • Hydrocarbon-based polyamides that may also be mentioned include polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and a diamine, including compounds containing more than two carbonyl groups and two amine groups, the carbonyl and amine groups of adjacent individual units being condensed in the form of an amide bond.
  • These polyamide resins are especially the products sold under the brand name Versamid® by the companies General Mills, Inc. and Henkel Corp., (Versamid 930, 744 or 1655) or by the company Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp., under the brand name Onamid®, especially Onamid S or C.
  • These resins have a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 6000 to 9000 g/mol.
  • polyamide resins such as those disclosed in patents US-A-5 783 657 and US-A-5 998 570.
  • the polyamide advantageously has a softening point of greater than 65°C, which may be up to 190°C. It preferably has a softening point ranging from 70°C to 130°C and better still from 80°C to 105°C.
  • the polyamide used is Uniclear 100 VG, the INCI name of which is ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer tallate copolymer. Silicone polyamide
  • the silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the silicone polyamides may be more particularly polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the general formula I:
  • G' represents C(O) when G represents -C(0)-NH-Y-NH-
  • G' represents -NH- when G represents -NH-C(0)-Y-C(0)-
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from:
  • Ci to Go hydrocarbon- based groups possibly containing in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and which may be partially or totally substituted with fluorine atoms,
  • the groups X which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched G to C30 alkylenediyl group, possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms,
  • Y is a saturated or unsaturated G to C50 linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene divalent group, which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or may bear as substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, C3 to G cycloalkyl, Ci to C40 alkyl, G to Go aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with one to three G to G alkyl, G to G hydroxyalkyl and G to aminoalkyl groups, or
  • Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: in which
  • T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C24 trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and possibly containing one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and
  • R 8 represents a linear or branched O-C50 alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain, possibly comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide groups, which may possibly be linked to another chain of the polymer;
  • - n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200
  • m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200.
  • 80% of the groups R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 of the polymer are preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl groups. According to another embodiment, 80% of the groups R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 of the polymer are methyl groups.
  • Y may represent various divalent groups, furthermore optionally comprising one or two free valencies to establish bonds with other units of the polymer or copolymer.
  • Y represents a group chosen from:
  • Ci to C20 alkylene groups comprising from 1 to 5 amide groups
  • Ci to C20 alkylene groups comprising one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl, C3 to Cs cycloalkane, Ci to C3 hydroxyalkyl and Ci to Ce aminoalkyl groups
  • the silicone polymer may be a homopolymer, i.e. a polymer comprising several identical units, of formula (I).
  • a polymer consisting of a copolymer comprising several different units of formula (I), i.e. a polymer in which at least one of the groups R 4 , R 5 , R 6 , R 7 , X, G, G', Y, m and n is different in one of the units.
  • a silicone polyamide furthermore comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based unit comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, chosen from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof.
  • copolymers may be block polymers or grafted polymers.
  • the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain in its alkylene part at least one of the following components:
  • the alkylene groups may also be substituted with at least one component chosen from the group formed by: - a hydroxyl group,
  • Y may also represent:
  • R represents a polyorganosiloxane chain and T represents a group of formula:
  • a, b and c are, independently, integers ranging from 1 to 10
  • R 13 is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 .
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched G to Go alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-GH 7 or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.
  • the silicone polyamide com rises at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV):
  • R , R , R , R , X, Y, m and n are as defined above.
  • m ranges from 1 to 700, in particular from 15 to 500 and especially from 50 to 200, and n ranges in particular from 1 to 500, preferably from 1 to 100 and better still from 4 to 25,
  • - X is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms, especially from 5 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly 10 carbon atoms, and
  • - Y is preferably an alkylene chain that is linear or branched, or which may comprise rings and/or unsaturations, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 carbon atoms.
  • the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain in its alkylene portion at least one of the following components:
  • alkylene groups may also be substituted with at least one component chosen from the group consisting of:
  • Y may also represent:
  • R 8 represents a polyorganosiloxane chain and T represents a group of formula:
  • a, b and c are, independently, integers ranging from 1 to 10
  • R 13 is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 .
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched G to C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-C3H7 or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.
  • the polymer may comprise identical or different units of formula (III) or (IV).
  • the polymer may be a polyamide containing several units of formula (III) or (IV) of different lengths, i.e. a polyamide corresponding to formula (V):
  • the units may be structured to form either a block copolymer, or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer.
  • the units may be not only of different lengths, but also of different chemical structures, for example containing different groups Y.
  • the polymer may correspond to formula VI:
  • R 4 to R 7 , X, Y, mi, r , n and p have the meanings given above and Y 1 is different from Y but chosen from the groups defined for Y.
  • the various units may be structured to form either a block copolymer, or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer.
  • the silicone polyamide may also be formed from a grafted copolymer.
  • the polyamide containing silicone units may be grafted and optionally crosslinked with silicone chains containing amide groups.
  • Such polymers may be synthesized with trifunctional amines.
  • the polymer may comprise at least one unit of formula (VII):
  • X 1 and X 2 which are identical or different, have the meaning given for X in formula (I)
  • n is as defined in formula (I)
  • Y and T are as defined in formula (I)
  • R 14 to R 21 are groups chosen from the same group as R 4 to R 7
  • mi and mz are numbers in the range from 1 to 1000
  • p is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.
  • R 22 is a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from the groups defined for R 4 to R 7
  • R 23 , R 24 and R 25 are, independently, linear or branched alkylene groups, and more preferably correspond to the formula:
  • R 23 , R 24 and R 25 representing -CH2-CH2-
  • - Xi and X2 represent -(CH 2 )io-
  • - Y represent -CH2-.
  • polyamides containing a grafted silicone unit of formula (VII) may be copolymenzed with polyamide-silicones of formula (II) to form block copolymers, alternating copolymers or random copolymers.
  • the weight percentage of grafted silicone units (VII) in the copolymer may range from 0.5% to 30% by weight.
  • the siloxane units may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or pendent chains.
  • the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above.
  • the siloxane units may appear individually or in segments.
  • use may be made of a copolymer comprising units of formula (III) or (IV) and hydrocarbon-based polyamide units.
  • the polyamide-silicone units may be located at the ends of the hydrocarbon-based polyamide.
  • the silicone polyamide comprises units of formula III.
  • the groups R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 represent methyl groups, one from among X and Y represents an alkylene group containing 6 carbon atoms and the other represents an alkylene group containing 11 carbon atoms.
  • n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500; n represents the degree of polymerization DP of the polymer.
  • silicone polyamides examples include the compounds sold by the company Dow Corning under the names DC 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15), the INCI name of which is Nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer, i.e. Nylon-611/dimethicone copolymers.
  • the emulsion used according to the invention comprises at least one polydimethylsiloxane block polymer of general formula (I) with an m value of about 100.
  • the value "m” corresponds to the degree of polymerization of the silicone portion of the polymer.
  • the emulsion according to the invention comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (III) in which m ranges from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150 and is preferably about 100.
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 independently represent a linear or branched Ci to Gto alkyl group, preferably a group C3 ⁇ 4, C2H5, n-C3H7 or an isopropyl group in formula (III).
  • silicone polymers that may be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 to 3 of document US-A-5 981 680.
  • the silicone polymers and/or copolymers used in the emulsion of the invention advantageously have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45°C to 190°C. Preferably, they have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130°C and better still from 80°C to 105°C.
  • the O/O emulsion according to the invention may comprise as polymeric thickener at least one dextrin ester.
  • the O/O emulsion preferably comprises at least one preferably C12-C24 and in particular C14-C18 fatty acid ester of dextrin, or mixtures thereof.
  • the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and of a C12-C18 and in particular CH-CI S fatty acid.
  • the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin myristate and/or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as the product sold especially under the name Rheopearl MKL-2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
  • the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate.
  • This product may be chosen, for example, from those sold under the names Rheopearl TL ® , Rheopearl KL ® and Rheopearl ® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
  • the mineral thickeners that are suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of modified clays, and silicas, alone or as a mixture.
  • the content of mineral thickener is advantageously between 0.1% and 20% and preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
  • the O/O emulsion according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic clay.
  • the clays may be natural or synthetic, and they are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a Cio to C22 ammonium chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • an alkylammonium salt such as a Cio to C22 ammonium chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites and vermiculites.
  • They are preferably chosen from hectorites.
  • Hectorites modified with a Cio to C22 ammonium chloride such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38V ® by the company Elementis or bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V ® (87% isododecane/10% disteardimonium hectorite/3% propylene carbonate) by the company Elementis, are preferably used as lipophilic clays.
  • Lipophilic clay may especially be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10% and more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
  • the O/O emulsion according to the invention may also comprise, as thickener, a fumed silica or silica aerogel particles. a) Fumed silica
  • Fumed silica which has undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment is most particularly suitable for use in the invention. This is because it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is especially possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
  • the hydrophobic groups may be:
  • Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812 ® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530 ® by the company Cabot;
  • silica thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972 ® and Aerosil R974 ® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS- 610 ® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720 ® by the company Cabot.
  • the fumed silicas may be present in an O/O emulsion according to the present invention in a content of between 0.1% and 40% by weight, more particularly between 1% and 15% by weight and even more particularly between 2% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
  • the O/O emulsion according to the invention may also comprise, as mineral thickener, at least silica aerogel particles.
  • Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
  • sol-gel processes are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
  • the sol-gel process and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker CJ., and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and a size expressed as the volume- mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ , better still from 1 to 1000 ⁇ , preferably from 1 to 100 ⁇ , in particular from 1 to 30 ⁇ , more preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • SM specific surface area per unit mass
  • D[0.5] volume- mean diameter
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 ⁇ , preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • D[0.5] volume-mean diameter
  • the specific surface area per unit mass may be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
  • BET Brunauer-Emmett-Teller
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • the sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • the silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tapped density p ranging from 0.02 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 , preferably from 0.03 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 and in particular ranging from 0.05 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 .
  • this density known as the tapped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol:
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 /cm 3 , preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 /cm 3 and better still from 15 to 40 m 2 /cm 3 .
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
  • the absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • wet point method the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measurement of the wet point, described below:
  • the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
  • the aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably of silyl silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
  • silyl silica preferably of silyl silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
  • hydrophobic silica means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
  • Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface- modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably of the INCI name Silica silylate.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are present in the O/O emulsion according to the invention in a solids content ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
  • the emulsion comprises at least one structuring agent chosen from waxes and pasty compounds, and mixtures thereof.
  • the O/O emulsion comprises:
  • first oily phase containing at least a first oil chosen from non- volatile phenyl or non-phenyl silicone oils
  • a second oily phase containing at least a second oil chosen from non- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, preferably at least three free hydroxyl groups
  • a pasty compound chosen from lanolin and derivatives thereof, esters of glycerol oligomers, butters of plant origin, totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils, and hydrogenated castor oil esters, or mixtures thereof, and more particularly castor oil esters.
  • the present invention is also directed towards processes for preparing the emulsion according to the invention.
  • the first oily phase is prepared in a first stage, and the second oily phase is prepared in a second stage.
  • the incorporation of the structuring agent or of each structuring agent into the oily phase into which they are to be incorporated is performed before the actual emulsification.
  • the mixing of the structuring agent(s) with the oily phase concerned preferably takes place at a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of said structuring compound(s) and the homogenization is advantageously performed at a temperature greater than or equal to this melting point.
  • the mixing of the oily phase with the structuring agent(s) may take place using manual stirring or mechanical stirring of Moritz blender type, Rayneri or ultra-Turrax blending, or alternatively by ultrasonic homogenization.
  • the process for preparing the emulsion may be continued, for example, according to the variants described below.
  • the process for preparing the emulsion comprises the following steps, in this order:
  • the first oily phase and the second oily phase are mixed together.
  • the emulsification of these two oily phases leads to the creation of an interface, and more particularly a dispersion of one of the oily phases in the other oily phase.
  • the solid microparticles are added to the emulsion formed and the mixture is then agitated, either by means of a combination of shear forces or by ultrasonication.
  • the process for preparing the emulsion is such that the solid microparticles are introduced into the first oily phase or into the second oily phase.
  • the process comprises the following steps, in this order:
  • one of the two oily phases comprising at least one structuring agent
  • the microparticles are first introduced into one of the two oily phases, and a combination of shear forces or ultrasonication is then applied, so as to obtain a homogeneous dispersion of said microparticles in said oily phase.
  • the other oily phase is then added.
  • the oily phase into which the microparticles are introduced comprises at least one structuring agent, this or these agents are added and mixed with said oily phase before the addition of the solid microparticles, as indicated previously.
  • the second oily phase comprises at least one structuring agent and/or at least one thickener, then this or these compounds are incorporated and mixed with said oily phase.
  • the oily phase thus prepared is then emulsified with the first oily phase comprising the solid microparticles, optionally one or more structuring agents.
  • the process for preparing the emulsion comprises the following steps, in this order:
  • the emulsion is obtained by mixing the solid microparticles and the two oily phases with vigorous stirring.
  • one and/or the other oily phase comprises at least one structuring agent, this or these ingredient(s) are incorporated beforehand and mixed into the oily phase in question following the protocol mentioned above.
  • Emulsification takes place by subjecting the mixture of the two oily phases comprising, if appropriate, at least one structuring agent, and the solid microparticles to a combination of shear forces or ultrasonication, to obtain homogeneity thereof.
  • homogeneity of an emulsion is intended to denote an emulsion in which the drops of inner phases are uniformly dispersed in the continuous or outer oily phase.
  • the drops of dispersed phases in the emulsion may be very fine, in particular ranging from 0.1 to 10 ⁇ , or may be coarser, in particular ranging from 10 ⁇ to 1 cm.
  • a person skilled in the art may choose the conditions and the device that are the best suited for obtaining the combination of forces necessary for obtaining the targeted type of emulsion, especially for obtaining the targeted droplet size.
  • This combination of ferees may be obtained by subjecting the first and second oily phases or the emulsion to manual shaking or to mechanical stirring with a blender such as a Moritz, Rayneri or Ultra-Turrax blender, or alternatively by ultrasonic homogenization.
  • a blender such as a Moritz, Rayneri or Ultra-Turrax blender, or alternatively by ultrasonic homogenization.
  • the speed of blending or stirring for obtaining a homogeneous phase or emulsion may depend on various factors such as its composition or its volume.
  • the various stirring parameters may be determined by a person skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge and, where appropriate, by means of a few routine tests.
  • this operation is performed at a temperature between 10 and 50°C; advantageously at a temperature between 1 and 30°C.
  • the percentages are weight percentages and the ranges of values written in the form "between ... and " include the stated lower and upper limits.
  • the examples below are presented as nonlimiting illustrations of the field of the invention.
  • the emulsion is prepared according to the following steps:
  • the pasty compound is first incorporated into an oil (corresponding to a second oil as defined in the description above), for example castor oil, in a beaker.
  • an oil for example castor oil
  • the mixture is heated for about 15 minutes to 50°C with slow stirring using a Rayneri blender until the pasty compound has melted,
  • a Pickering emulsion is thus obtained.
  • the particles used are sold under the name NLK-506 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat, and are also known as methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer bowls.
  • the pasty compound is incorporated into the castor oil.
  • the mixture is heated to 50°C with slow stirring using a Rayneri blender until the pasty compound has melted: about 15 minutes.
  • Said emulsion is stable for 15 days at 23°C.
  • Examples 4 and 5 Emulsions prepared using bowl particles comprising the methylsilanol/silicate crosslinked polymer and using a wax
  • the particles used are sold under the name NLK-506 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat, and are also known as methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer bowls.
  • - Wax is incorporated into castor oil.
  • the mixture is heated to 90°C-92°C for carnauba wax or 105°C for the mixture of long-chain fatty alcohols and hydrocarbon wax with slow stirring using a Rayneri blender until the wax has melted, and the mixture is then left stirring for 15 minutes,
  • Carnauba wax (g/100 g) (Carnauba Wax #1 Flakes N.F. SP 63 5
  • Silicone resin bowl microparticles (NLK-506 sold by Takemoto
  • Said emulsion is stable for 15 days at 23°C.
  • Example 6 Emulsions prepared using bowl particles comprising the methylsilanol/silicate crosslinked polymer and using a thickener
  • the particles used are sold under the name NLK-506 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat, and are also known as methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer bowls.
  • the thickener is incorporated into the castor oil.
  • the mixture is heated at 75°C with slow stirring using a Rayneri blender until the gelling agent has melted, followed by stirring for 15 minutes.
  • Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Crodamol PTIS-LQ-(MH) sold by 6.9
  • Solid particles g/100 g
  • silicone resin bowl microparticles NLK-506 sold by Takemoto Oil &
  • the hydrocarbon-based phase comprises a pasty compound bearing an OH function.
  • Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Crodamol PTIS-LQ-(MH) sold by 32.5
  • Silicone resin bowl microparticles (NLK-506 sold by Takemoto Oil &
  • the two compositions are centrifuged for 1 minute at 450g. No instability is observed. In particular, the dyestuffs do not sediment out. Furthermore, no leaching of oil is observed.
  • compositions of Examples 7 and 8 show very good thermal stability. Thus, no modification of the compositions was visually observed even after 5 months at room temperature, at 4°C, at 47°C and during a temperature cycle.
  • each of the compositions gives a uniform, sparingly tacky deposit with a very good level of gloss (evaluated using a Samba polarimetric camera and a Chromasphere SEI-M-0738-CHRO-10 as described in patent application FR 2 829 344).

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Abstract

The present invention relates to an oil/oil (O/O) emulsion comprising at least: - a first oily phase comprising at least a first non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils and fluoro oils, - a second oily phase comprising at least a second non-volatile or volatile oil, which is immiscible with the first oil(s), at 25°C, - at least one structuring agent chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, polymeric thickeners, mineral thickeners and mixtures thereof - solid microparticles having at least one curved part and at least one break in the curvature of said curved part. The invention also relates to cosmetic compositions comprising an emulsion according to the present invention, and also to the use of the microparticles according to the present invention for stabilizing oil/oil emulsions.

Description

"O/O emulsion containing microparticles with a break in the curvatured part, compositions comprising same and use of microparticles for stabilizing the O/O emulsions"
The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions based on oil/oil (O/O) emulsions.
There is still a need for novel architectures leading to stable cosmetic compositions that have the comfort properties required by users.
The authors of the present invention have oriented their research towards O/O emulsions. These emulsions are relatively uncommon, but nevertheless have the advantage of having novel properties.
One of the problems posed by this type of emulsion is associated with its stability: O/O emulsions are generally stabilized with gelling agents or even emulsifying surfactants and/or (co)polymers.
This type of emulsion is used in particular in lipcare and/or lip makeup products. For example, patent application WO 2009/150 852 is directed towards an oil-in- oil cosmetic composition comprising a hydrocarbon-based non- olatile oil, a silicone nonvolatile oil and a fatty acid ester of dextrin; said application does not describe O/O emulsions of Pickering type.
Surprisingly and advantageously, the authors of the present invention have used O/O emulsions of Pickering type stabilized with particular solid particles, which have good gloss properties and a good level of tackiness.
The emulsions according to the invention thus comprise two different immiscible oily phases, one forming the continuous phase and the other forming the dispersed phase, at least one structuring agent chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, semi- crystalline polymers, dextrin esters and mixtures thereof, and particular solid particles for stabilizing the emulsion by positioning themselves at the interface of the dispersed and continuous phases.
Once positioned at the interface, the solid particles "block" the dispersed phase, which leads to stabilization of the emulsion. The O/O emulsion thus formed is stable for several weeks. Moreover, the presence of at least one structuring agent chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, polymeric thickeners, mineral thickeners and mixtures thereof, makes it possible to improve the gloss and to reduce the tackiness of the emulsion.
The emulsion according to the invention also makes it possible to dispense with the use, as stabilizers, of compounds of surfactant type, or to limit the amounts therof. Indeed, some of these agents may present toxicity risks to the environment depending on the amounts used.
In addition, in the context of the invention, the oils used for forming the two phases may be judiciously chosen, and the structuring agents may be chosen, as a function of the intended use of the final product and of the desired properties.
Thus, a first subject of the invention is directed towards an oil/oil (O/O) emulsion comprising at least:
- a first oily phase comprising at least a first non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils and fluoro oils,
- a second oily phase comprising at least a second non- volatile or volatile oil, which is immiscible with the first oil(s), at 2 °C,
- at least one structuring agent chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, polymeric thickeners, mineral thickeners and mixtures thereof, and
- solid microparticles having at least one curved part and at least one break in the curvature of said curved part.
The invention is also directed towards a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one O/O emulsion according to the invention.
Definitions
Within the context of the present invention, the term "microparticles" denotes a particle, the largest dimension of which ranges from 0.1 to 100 μιη, preferably from 0.1 to 50 μηι and even more preferably from 0.5 to 20 um.
The term "room temperature" is intended to denote a temperature of about 25°C, for example ranging from 18 to 25°C. It is set at atmospheric pressure (i.e. a pressure of 1.013 x 10s Pa). The compositions and/or emulsions according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a non-toxic medium that can be applied to human skin, and which is of pleasant appearance, odour and feel.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a solid composition.
According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a liquid composition.
In particular, it is a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up the skin, and more particularly facial skin, or alternatively a composition for treating keratin fibres.
The term "skin" is intended to denote all of the skin of the body, including the lips, and preferably the skin of the face, the neck and the neckline, and also the lips.
The term "keratin fibres" more particularly means the hair.
More specifically, the composition according to the invention is a composition chosen from lip makeup and/or care products, antisun products, deodorants, care products and fragrances. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a composition for making up and/or caring for the lips.
In a known manner, the cosmetic composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants that are common in cosmetics, such as preserving agents, fragrances, fillers, UV-screening agents, which are especially lipophilic, bactericides, odour absorbers, dyestuffs, plant extracts, antioxidants and nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants.
The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into the first oily phase and/or into the second oily phase.
According to another subject, the invention is directed towards the use of solid microparticles having at least one curved part and at least one break in the curvature of said curved part, for stabilizing an O/O emulsion comprising at least a first oily phase comprising at least a first non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils and fluoro oils, at least a second oily phase comprising at least a second volatile or non-volatile oil that is immiscible with the first oil(s) at 25°C, and at least one structuring agent chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, polymeric thickeners, mineral thickeners and mixtures therof.
SOLID MICROPARTICLES
The solid microparticles that may be used for stabilizing the O/O emulsion according to the invention have a particular shape; they thus have at least one curved part and at least one break in the curvature of said curved part, the microparticles preferably having at least two curved parts.
According to a preferred variant, the solid microparticles that may be used in the present invention comprise several curvatures.
The term "several curvatures" means curvatures of different radius. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "radius of curvature" does not cover the "infinity" value "∞"; thus, the microparticles used according to the invention are not in the form of platelets or leaflets.
In particular, the solid microparticles that may be used in the present invention comprise at least one concave part and at least one convex part.
More particularly, the microparticles in accordance with this variant have a form chosen from forms of "bowl", "golf ball" and "polytope" type.
According to a second preferred variant, the solid microparticles that may be used in the present invention comprise only one curvature. For the purposes of the invention, the term "only one curvature" means that when the microparticle comprises several curves, these curves have curvatures of the same radius.
They are especially chosen from hemispherical, fusiform microparticles, for example of "rugby ball" type.
The solid microparticles that may be used in the present invention may be mineral or organic.
In general, the microparticles that may be used in the present invention are such that their largest dimension ranges, on average, from 0.1 to 100 μιτι, preferably from 0.1 to 50 μιη and more preferably from 0.5 to 20 μιη. The largest dimension of the particles, which corresponds to a mean dimension over 50% by volume of the particles, may be determined using a laser diffraction particle size analyser (for example Mastersizer 2000 from the company Malvern). Advantageously, the microparticles that may be used in the present invention have a density ranging from 0.5 to 2.8 and preferably from 0.8 to 1.5.
The microparticles may be polar or apolar, and are preferably apolar.
The microparticles according to the invention are generally obtained by radical polymerization or by polycondensation.
The term "radical polymerization" means a polymerization of at least one ethylenic monomer.
In this case, preferably, the microparticles according to the invention contain, or even are formed from, a polymer chosen from polyacrylates, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and polystyrenes.
The term "polycondensation" means polymerization between two monomers with elimination of a small molecule.
In this case, preferably, the microparticles according to the invention contain, or even are formed from, a polymer chosen from polysilicones, polyurethanes and polyesters.
Bowls
According to the first variant of the invention, the microparticles comprise at least one concave part and at least one convex part, the microparticles more particularly having a hollow hemispherical form, i.e. of "bowl" type.
The "bowl"-shaped microparticles may comprise or may be formed from PMMA, and/or a silicone material, and they preferably comprise or are formed from a silicone material.
This last preferred mode is described in detail hereinbelow under the name "concave particles of silicone material".
The "bowl-shaped microparticles made of crosslinked polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA)" are especially Micropearl® M310 sold by the company SEPPIC.
Concave particles of silicone material
The concave particles present in the O/O emulsion according to the invention may be silicone particles, in particular hollow sphere portions formed from a silicone material. Said particles preferably have a mean diameter ranging from 0.1 μιτι to 20 μπι, preferentially from 0.5 to 15 μηι. The term "mean diameter" means the largest dimension of the particle.
The hollow sphere portions used in the O/O emulsion according to the invention have the form of truncated hollow spheres, having only one orifice communicating with their central cavity, and having a horseshoe-shaped or bow-shaped cross section.
The silicone material is a crosslinked polysiloxane of three-dimensional structure; it preferably comprises, or even is formed from, units of formula (I) Si02 and of formula (II) R'SiOi.s in which R1 denotes an organic group containing a carbon atom directly bonded to the silicon atom.
Advantageously, the solid microparticles are in the form of bowls and comprise, or even are formed from, units of formula (I) Si02 and of formula (II) R'SiOi.s in which R1 denotes an organic group containing a carbon atom directly bonded to the silicon atom.
The organic group R1 may be a reactive organic group; R1 may more particularly be an epoxy group, a (meth)acryloxy group, an alkenyl group, a mercaptoalkyl, aminoalkyl or haloalkyl group, a glyceroxy group, a ureido group, a cyano group and, preferably, an epoxy group, a (meth)acryloxy group, an alkenyl group or a mercaptoalkyl or aminoalkyl group. These groups generally contain from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and especially from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
The organic group R1 may also be an unreactive organic group; R1 may then more particularly be a C1-C4 alkyl group, especially a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group, or a phenyl group, and preferably a methyl group.
Epoxy groups that may be mentioned include a 2-glycidoxyethyl group, a
3-glycidoxypropyl group and a 2-(3,4-epoxycyclohexyl)propyl group.
(Meth)acryloxy groups that may be mentioned include a 3-methacryloxypropyl group and a 3-acryloxypropyl group.
Alkenyl groups that may be mentioned include vinyl, allyl and isopropenyl groups.
Mercaptoalkyl groups that may be mentioned include mercaptopropyl and mercaptoethyl groups. Aminoalkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 3-(2-aminoethyl)aminopropyl group, a 3-aminopropyl group and an Ν,Ν-dimethylaminopropyl group.
Haloalkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 3-chloropropyl group and a trifluoropropyl group.
Glyceroxy groups that may be mentioned include a 3-glyceroxypropyl group and a 2-glyceroxyethyl group.
A ureido group that may be mentioned is a 2-ureidoethyl group.
Cyano groups that may be mentioned include cyanopropyl and cyanoethyl groups.
Preferably, in the unit of formula (II), R1 denotes a methyl group.
Advantageously, the silicone material comprises the units (I) and (II) in a unit (I)/unit (II) mole ratio ranging from 30/70 to 50/50 and preferably ranging from 35/65 to 45/55.
The silicone material particles may especially be able to be obtained according to a process comprising:
(a) the introduction into an aqueous medium, in the presence of at least one hydrolysis catalyst, and optionally of at least one surfactant, of a compound
(III) of formula SiX4 and of a compound (IV) of formula RS1Y3, in which X and Y denote, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkoxy group, an alkoxyethoxy group containing a C1-C4 alkoxy group, a C2-C4 acyloxy group, an Ν,Ν-dialkylamino group containing Ci-C4 alkyl groups, a hydroxyl group, a halogen atom or a hydrogen atom, and R denotes an organic group comprising a carbon atom directly bonded to the silicon atom; and
(b) the placing in contact of the mixture resulting from step (a) with an aqueous solution containing at least one polymerization catalyst and optionally at least one surfactant, at a temperature of between 30 and 85°C, for at least two hours.
Step (a) corresponds to a hydrolysis reaction and step (b) corresponds to a condensation reaction.
In step (a), the mole ratio of compound (III) to compound (IV) usually ranges from 30/70 to 50/50 and advantageously from 35/65 to 45/55 and is preferentially 40/60. The weight ratio of water to the total amount of compounds (III) and (IV) preferably ranges from 10/90 to 70/30. The order of introduction of compounds (III) and (IV) generally depends on their rate of hydrolysis. The temperature of the hydrolysis reaction generally ranges from 0 to 40°C and usually does not exceed 30°C to avoid premature condensation of the compounds.
For the groups X and Y of compounds (III) and (IV):
C1-C4 alkoxy groups that may be mentioned include methoxy and ethoxy groups;
As alkoxyethoxy groups containing a C1-C4 alkoxy group, mention may be made of methoxyethoxy and butoxyethoxy groups;
C2-C4 alkoxy groups that may be mentioned include acetoxy and propioxy groups;
As Ν,Ν-dialkylamino groups containing C1-C4 alkyl groups, mention may be made of dimethylamino and diethylamino groups;
Halogen atoms that may be mentioned include chlorine and bromine atoms.
Compounds of formula (III) that may be mentioned include tetramethoxysilane, tetraethoxysilane, tetrabutoxysilane, trimethoxyethoxysilane, tributoxyethoxysilane, tetraacetoxysilane, tetrapropioxysilane, tetra(dimethylamino)silane, tetra(diethylamino)silane, silane tetraol, chlorosilane triol, dichlorodisilanol, tetrachlorosilane and chlorotrihydrogenosilane. Preferably, the compound of formula (III) is chosen from tetramethoxysilane, tetraethoxysilane and tetrabutoxysilane, and mixtures thereof.
The compound of formula (III) leads, after the polymerization reaction, to the formation of the units of formula (I).
The compound of formula (IV) leads, after the polymerization reaction, to the formation of the units of formula (II).
The group R in the compound of formula (IV) has the meaning as described for the group R1 for the compound of formula (II).
As examples of compounds of formula (IV) comprising an unreactive organic group R, mention may be made of methyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltributoxysilane, butyltributoxysilane, phenyltrimethoxyethoxysilane, methyltributoxyethoxysilane, methyltriacetoxysilane, methyltripropioxysilane, methyltri(dimethylamino)silane, methyltri(diethylamino)silane, methylsilane triol, methylchlorodisilanol, methyltrichlorosilane and methyltrihydrogenosilane.
As examples of compounds of formula (IV) comprising a reactive organic group R, mention may be made of:
- silanes containing an epoxy group, for instance
3 -glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 3 -glycidoxypropyltriethoxysilane,
2- (3,4-epoxycyclo exyl)ethyltrimethoxysilane, 3-glycidoxypropylmethyldimethoxy- silane, 2-glycidoxyethylmethyldimethoxysilane, 3-glycidoxy- propyldimethylmethoxysilane and 2-glycidoxyethyldimethylmethoxysilane;
- silanes containing a (metfi)acryloxy group, for instance
3 -methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane and 3 -acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane;
silanes containing an alkenyl group, for instance vinyltrimethoxysilane, allyltrimethoxysilane and isopropenyltrimethoxysilane;
silanes containing a mercapto group, for instance mercaptopropyltrimethoxysilane and mercaptoethyltrimethoxysilane;
silanes containing an aminoalkyl group, for instance
3- aminopropyltrimethoxysilane, 3-(2-aminoethyl)aminopropyltrimethoxysilane, N,N-dimethylaminopropyltrimethoxysilane and N,N-dimethylamino- ethyltrimethoxysilane;
- silanes containing a haloalkyl group, for instance
3 -chloropropyltrimethoxysilane and trifluoropropyltrimethoxysilane;
silanes containing a glyceroxy group, for instance 3-glyceroxypropyltrimethoxysilane and bis(3-glyceroxypropyl)dimethoxysilane;
silanes containing a ureido group, for instance 3-ureidopropyltrimethoxysilane, 3-ureidopropylmethyldimethoxysilane and
3-ureidopropyldimethylmethoxysilane;
silanes containing a cyano group, for instance cyanopropyltrimethoxysilane, cyanopropylmethyldimethoxysilane and cyanopropyldimethylmethoxysilane.
Preferably, the compound of formula (IV) comprising a reactive organic group R is chosen from silanes containing an epoxy group, silanes containing a (meth)- acryloxy group, silanes containing an alkenyl group, silanes containing a mercapto group and silanes containing an amino alkyl group.
Examples of compounds (III) and (IV) that are preferred for the implementation of this invention are, respectively, tetraethoxysilane and methyltrimethoxysilane.
Hydrolysis and polymerization catalysts that may be used, independently, include basic catalysts such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate and aqueous ammonia, or amines such as trimethylamine, triethylamine or tetramethylammonium hydroxide, or acidic catalysts such as organic acids, for instance, citric acid, acetic acid, methanesulfonic acid, p-toluenesulfonic acid, dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid or dodecylsulfonic acid, or mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid or phosphoric acid.
When it is present, the surfactant used is preferably a nonionic or anionic surfactant or a mixture of the two. Sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate may be used as anionic surfactant. The end of the hydrolysis is marked by the disappearance of the water- insoluble products (III) and (IV) and the obtaining of a homogeneous liquid layer.
The condensation step (b) may use the same catalyst as the hydrolysis step or another catalyst chosen from those mentioned above.
After this process, a suspension in water of fine organosilicone particles, which may then optionally be separated from their medium, is obtained. The process described above may thus comprise an additional filtration step, for example on a membrane filter, of the product resulting from step (b), optionally followed by a step of centrifugation of the filtrate intended to separate the particles from the liquid medium, and then a step of drying the particles. Other separation methods may obviously be used.
The form of the hollow sphere portions obtained according to the above process, and the sizes thereof, will depend especially on the mode of bringing into contact of the products in step (b).
A rather basic pH and cold introduction of the polymerization catalyst into the mixture obtained from step (a) will lead to "bowl"-shaped hollow sphere portions with a rounded bottom, whereas a rather acidic pH and dropwise introduction of the mixture obtained from step (a) into the hot polymerization catalyst will lead to hollow sphere portions with a "horseshoe"-shaped cross section. According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, bowl-shaped hollow sphere portions are used. These may be obtained as described in patent application JP-A-2003-128 788 or FR 2 902 654. The parts of these applications devoted to particles of "bowl" type and to the processes for preparing them are incorporated by reference into the present text.
Horseshoe-shaped hollow sphere portions are described in patent application JP-A-2000-191 789.
Figure 1 of FR 2 902 654 illustrates a concave particle in the form of bowl- shaped sphere portions in cross section. The width W2 corresponds to the diameter of the particles.
As emerges from this figure, these concave portions are formed (in a section perpendicular to a plane of the aperture delimited by the hollow sphere portion) of a small inner arc (11), a large outer arc (21) and segments (31) that connect the ends of the respective arcs, the width (Wl) between the two ends of the small inner arc (11) ranging from 0.01 to 8 μιη and preferably from 0.02 to 6 μηι on average, the width (W2) between the two ends of the large outer arc (21) ranging from 0.05 to 10 μηι and preferably from 0.06 to 8 μπι on average and the height (H) of the large outer arc (21) ranging from 0.015 to 8 μιη and preferably from 0.03 to 6 μηι on average.
The sizes mentioned above are obtained by calculating the mean of the sizes of one hundred particles chosen on an image obtained using a scanning electron microscope.
As concave particles in the form of sphere portions that may be used according to the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:
bowl-shaped particles constituted of the crosslinked organosilicone TAK-110 (methylsilanol/silicate crosslinked polymer) from the company Takemoto
Oil & Fat, of width 2.5 μιη, height 1.2 μιη and thickness 150 nm (particles sold under the name NLK-506 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat);
bowl-shaped particles constituted of the crosslinked organosilicone TAK-110 (methylsilanol/silicate crosslinked polymer) from the company Takemoto Oil & Fat, of width 0.8 μιη, height 0.4 μηι and thickness 130 nm (particles sold under the name NLK-515 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat); bowl-shaped particles constituted of the crosslinked organosilicone TAK-110 (methylsilanol/silicate crosslinked polymer) from the company Takemoto Oil & Fat, of width 7 μηι, height 3.5 μηι and thickness 200 nm (particles sold under the name NLK-510 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat).
These particles comprise, or even are formed from, methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer.
Advantageously, the concave silicone particles, in particular the bowls, have a mean diameter of less than or equal to 5 μιη, especially ranging from 0.1 μηι to 5 μηι, preferentially ranging from 0.2 to 5 μιη, more preferentially ranging from 0.5 to 4 μηι and even more preferably ranging from 0.5 to 3 μιη.
Polvtopes
According to another variant, the microparticles that may be used according to the invention are fine non-spherical particles in the form of polygons containing at least six concave faces. These particles are characterized by a mean value of the maximum outside diameters of said individual fine non-spherical particles ranging from 0.1 to 20 μιη; a mean value of the ratio between the minimum outside diameters and the maximum outside diameters of said individual fine non-spherical particles ranging from 0.60 to 0.97; and a mean number of concave surfaces, for which the ratio of the relative maximum diameter to the maximum outside diameter ranges from 0.50 to 0.90, ranging from 6 to 14 per fine, non-spherical particle.
These particles are described in greater detail in patent application EP 2 476 719 Al, and the parts of that application that are devoted to the definition of the fine non- spherical particles and to the process for preparing them are incorporated by reference into the present text.
The fine, non-spherical particles in the form of polygons containing at least six concave faces that may be used according to the invention are also known as "polytopes" or "ossicles", and the largest dimension of these particles preferably ranges from 1 to 10 μηι.
Rugby balls According to another variant, the microparticles that may be used according to the invention are particles of non-(hemi)spherical form, in particular fusiform, also known as "rugby ball"-shaped.
In this text, a fusiform or "rugby ball" shape relates to a form such as a sphere which is stretched in one direction so as to have a major axis along which the fusiform particle has the longest diameter Li which is between approximately 0.05 μηι and approximately 20 μηι and two minor axes L2 perpendicular to the major axis and along each of which the fusiform particle has the smallest diameter which is between approximately 0.03 μηι and approximately 15 μιτι, Li/L2 being between approximately 1.1 and approximately 3.3.
The organosilicone material of crosslinked polysiloxane structure preferably comprises, or even is formed from, units of formula (I): S1O2, and of formula (II): R' SiOi.s, in which R1 represents an organic group containing a carbon atom directly bonded to the silicon atom. The organic group may be a reactive organic group or an unreactive organic group, and preferably an unreactive organic group.
The organosilicone material of crosslinked polysiloxane structure also preferably comprises a first, a second and a third siloxane unit which are, respectively, of formula (I): S1O2, of formula (II):
Figure imgf000014_0001
and of formula (III): R2R3SiO, in which R1 , R2 and R3 are any identical or different organic groups, containing a carbon atom directly bonded to a silicon atom; R2 and R3 may be, independently, an unreactive organic group or an organic group not containing a reactive group or a reactive organic group or an organic group containing a reactive group. However, R2 and/or R3 preferably represent a reactive organic group or an organic group containing a reactive group.
The unreactive organic group may be a C1-C4 alkyl group, especially a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group, or a phenyl group, and preferably a methyl group.
The reactive organic group may be an epoxy group, a (meth)acryloxy group, an alkenyl group, a mercaptoalkyl, aminoalkyl or haloalkyl group, a glyceroxy group, a ureido group or a cyano group. Preferably, the reactive organic group may be an epoxy group, a (meth)acryloxy group, an alkenyl group or a mercaptoalkyl or aminoalkyl group. The reactive organic group generally comprises from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and especially from 2 to 4 carbon atoms. Epoxy groups that may be mentioned include a 2-glycidoxyethyl group, a 3- glycidoxypropyl group or a 2-(3,4-epoxycyclohexyl)propyl group.
(Meth)acryloyloxy groups that may be mentioned include a 3- methacryloyloxypropyl group or a 3-acryloyloxypropyl group.
Alkenyl groups that may be mentioned include a vinyl, allyl or isopropenyl group.
Mercaptoalkyl groups that may be mentioned include a mercaptopropyl or mercaptoethyl group.
Aminoalkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 3-[(2- aminoethyl)amino]propyl group, a 3-aminopropyl group or an N,N-dimethylaminopropyl group.
Haloalkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 3-chloropropyl group or a trifluoropropyl group.
Glyceroxy groups that may be mentioned include a 3-glyceroxypropyl group or a 2-glyceroxyethyl group.
A ureido group that may be mentioned is a 2-ureidoethyl group.
Cyano groups that may be mentioned include a cyanopropyl or cyanoethyl group.
Preferably, in the unit of formula (II), R1 represents a methyl group. Advantageously, the organosilicone material comprises units (I) and (II) in a unit (I)/unit (II) mole ratio ranging from 30/70 to 50/50, preferably ranging from 35/65 to 45/55.
Also advantageously, the organosilicone material comprises units (I), (II) and (III) such that the mole ratio of the molar sum of the first siloxane unit (I) and the second unit (II) to the third siloxane unit (III) is between approximately 99:1 and 50:50 and more preferably between 90:10 and 60:40. The mole ratio of the first siloxane unit (I) relative to the second siloxane unit (II) may preferably be approximately between 23:77 and 40:60.
The fusiform microparticles and the processes for obtaining them are described especially in Japanese patent application 2003-171465 filed by Takemoto Oil & Fat.
Golf balls As golf balls that may be used, mention may be made most particularly of organosilicone microparticles comprising a crosslinked polysiloxane structure, of spherical overall form and having at their surface a multitude of indentations.
More particularly, the crosslinked polysiloxane structure is a structure in which the polysiloxane units form a three-dimensional network. Preferably, said siloxane units comprise at least two types of units chosen from units of formula (1), and preferably comprise a unit of mean formula (2); said formulae being the following:
R1 mSiO(4-M)/2 (1) R2„SiO(4-„)/2 (2)
in which R1 and R2 represent an organic group bonded to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom; m is an integer ranging from 0 to 3; n ranges from 0.78 to 0.95.
The units of formula (1) more particularly represent S1O4/2, R'SiC ^, R^SIOM and in which R1, which may be identical or different, more particularly represent a hydrocarbon-based group such as an alkyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl or aralkyl group, the alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as methyl, ethyl or butyl, preferably methyl, the aromatic group more particularly representing a phenyl.
The hydrocarbon-based groups may be substituted with an epoxy or glyceroxy group, a halogen atom, a ureido group, a cyano radical or an amino radical, and preferably a C1-C4 glycidoxyalkyl group such as 2-glycidoxyethyl, 3-glycidoxypropyl, 2- (glycidoxycarbonyl)(Ci-C4)alkyl such as 2-(glycidoxycarbonyl)ethyl, 2- (glycidoxycarbonyl)propyl, 2-(epoxycyclohexyl)(G-C4)alkyl such as 2-(3,4- epoxycyclohexyl)propyl; the radicals comprising epoxy radicals being preferred and also 2-glycidoxyethyl and 3-glycidoxypropyl.
According to a first variant, in the case where R1 represents an unsubstituted hydrocarbon-based group as described previously, the siloxane units represented by formula (1) may be chosen from 1) silicic anhydride, 2) a siloxane unit represented by R'SiCb^such as a methylsiloxane, ethylsiloxane, butylsiloxane or phenylsiloxane unit, 3) a siloxane unit represented by R^SiC ^, such as a dimethylsiloxane, diethylsiloxane, dibutylsiloxane, methylphenylsiloxane or diphenylsiloxane unit, or 4) a siloxane unit represented by
Figure imgf000016_0001
such as a trimethylsiloxane, triethylsiloxane, tributylsiloxane, dimethylphenylsiloxane or diethylphenylsiloxane unit. The methylsiloxane, dimethylsiloxane and trimethylsiloxane units are preferred. According to a second variant, in the cases where R represents a substituted hydrocarbon-based radical as described previously, the siloxane units represented by formula (1) may be advantageously chosen from 1) a siloxane unit represented by such as a 3-glycidoxypropylsiloxane or 2-glycidoxyethylsiloxane unit, 2) a siloxane unit represented by R1 2Si02/2, such as a 3-glycidoxypropylmethylsiloxane or 2- glycidoxyethylmethylsiloxane unit, or 3) a siloxane unit represented by
Figure imgf000017_0001
such as a 3-glycidoxypropyldimethylsiloxane or 2-glycidoxyethyldimethylsiloxane unit.
In the case where the crosslinked polysiloxane structure comprises siloxane units as described above, the mean formula of the siloxane units is represented by the mean formula (2) indicated previously. Preferably, n in formula (2) ranges from 0.78 to 0.95 and preferably from 0.80 to 0.90. For example, a crosslinked polysiloxane may be formed from units 1) S1O4/2,
Figure imgf000017_0002
or 3) S1O4/2 and R^iCh^, the preferred crosslinked polysiloxanes being crosslinked polysiloxanes comprising S1O4/2 and R'Si03/2, in which the Si04/2/R1Si032 mole ratio is between 5/95 and 22/78 and preferably between 10/90 and 20/80.
The organosilicone microparticles have, as indicated above, a spherical overall structure and a mean diameter ranging from 0.1 to 10 μηι and preferably from 0.1 to 7 μιη. It should be noted that the mean diameter is measured by the laser diffraction/diffusion method.
As regards the indentations at the surface of the microparticles, their structure may be influenced by the proportion of the siloxane units. When they are viewed from the surface of the microparticle, they may be virtually circular or elliptical, in the form of wrinkles (wrinkle- like) or of irregular form, or even a combination of several forms. However, the microparticles comprising at their surface a multitude of indentations of virtually circular structure are preferred (golf ball appearance).
The microparticles of this type and the processes for obtaining them are described especially in Japanese patent JP 38 46667 filed by Takemoto Oil & Fat.
In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention, the solid microparticles used in the emulsion are silicone particles, and even more preferably are bowl-shaped particles. Preferably, the total amount of solid microparticles comprising at least one curved part and at least one break in the curvature of said curved part ranges from 1% to 10% and preferably from 2% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion. OILS
The emulsion according to the invention comprises two oily phases, a first oily phase comprising at least a first oil chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils and fluoro oils, and a second oily phase comprising at least a second oil that is immiscible with the first oil(s), at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg/1.013><105 Pa).
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "immiscible oils" means that the mixing of these two oils does not lead to a homogeneous one-phase solution. Said mixing is performed with the same weight amount of each oil.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "oil" means a compound whose maximum viscosity is 200 000 cPs (200 Pa.s) at 25°C.
Also, and preferably, at least one of the oils is chosen from water-immiscible compounds (mixing performed with the same weight amount of water). In accordance with a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the oil(s) are chosen from water- immiscible compounds.
It should be noted that the viscosities are measured according to the following protocol:
The viscosity is measured at 25°C ± 0.5°C using a Haake RS600 controlled- stress rheometer from the company Thermo Rheo equipped with a spindle of cone/plate geometry with a diameter of between 2 cm and 6 cm and an angle of between 1° and 2°, the choice of the spindle depending on the viscosity to be measured (the more fluid the formulation, the greater the diameter of the chosen cone and the smaller the angle).
The measurement is performed by applying on the oil sample a logarithmic ramp of shear gradient ε' ranging from 10"3 s"1 to 1000 s"1 for a duration of 5 minutes.
The rheogram representing the change in viscosity as a function of the shear gradient ε' is then plotted. The value under consideration is that of the viscosity at 500 s"1, whether it is measured at this gradient or extrapolated by the plot if no experimental point corresponds to this value.
More particularly, the oils are said to be "immiscible" when mixing them leads to a separation of phases according to the following protocols:
For oils whose viscosity is less than 10 000 cPs (10 Pa.s) at 25°C, the two oils to be evaluated are introduced (5 g/5 g) at room temperature into a conical-tipped plastic centrifuge tube (ref. Corning® 1 mL PET Centrifuge Tubes, Rack Packed with Plug Seal Cap, Sterile (Product #430055), which is placed in a Vortex Genie 2 machine. Stirring is performed at speed 10 for 10 seconds, followed by manual inversion of the tube before replacing it in the Vortex machine. This cycle is repeated three times in succession. The mixture is then left to stand at room temperature for 48 hours.
If at least one of the oils has a viscosity of greater than or equal to 10 000 cPs (10 Pa.s) at 25°C, then the mixture of the two oils (5 g/5 g) is placed in an oven at 50°C for 30 minutes before performing the three stirring cycles described previously.
The mixture is then observed.
When the mixture is separated into two phases and the separation of the two phases is sharply delimited at the interface, the phases are said to be "separated" and the oils are consequently immiscible.
In the contrary case, the mixture is observed using a phase-contrast microscope, at room temperature (about 25°C). If a continuous phase and a dispersed phase in the form of drops are observed, the phases are said to be "separated" and the oils are considered as immiscible.
If the observation of the mixture reveals only a single phase, then the phases are said to be "non-separated" and the oils are considered as miscible.
This same protocol is used to check the miscibility of the oil with water.
More particularly, the O/O emulsion according to the invention comprises at least a first oily phase containing at least one non- volatile oil, and a second oily phase containing at least one volatile or non- volatile oil.
Preferably, the first and second oily phases each contain at least one nonvolatile oil. The term "non-volatile" refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10"3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
The term "volatile" refers to an oil that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
More particularly, the term "volatile oil" means an oil which has a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa, preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa.
A preferred embodiment of the invention concerns an oil/oil emulsion in which said first non- volatile oil or second oil, preferably said first oil, is chosen from silicone oils and fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof, and more particularly from non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils; non-volatile phenyl silicone oils, optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment; fluoro oils; or mixtures thereof.
Another preferred embodiment of the invention relates to an oil/oil emulsion in which the first or the second non-volatile oil, preferably the second oil, is chosen from polar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils, in particular chosen from non-volatile oils comprising at least one free hydroxyl group or not comprising any, or from non- volatile oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, or from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oils, or mixtures thereof.
First oily phase
The first oily phase comprises at least a first non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils, fluoro oils and hydrocarbon-based oils, or mixtures thereof, and more particularly, in accordance with a first embodiment, from non-phenyl non- volatile silicone oils; phenyl non-volatile silicone oils, optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment; fluoro oils; or mixtures thereof.
In accordance with a second embodiment, the first oily phase comprises at least a first hydrocarbon-based oil.
This first oily phase may be the continuous phase or the dispersed phase. The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-0 groups.
The term "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms.
The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
1. Silicone oils
Non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils
The term "non-phenylated silicone oil" or "non-phenyl silicone oil" denotes a silicone oil which does not bear any phenyl substituents.
Representative examples of these non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils which may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinylmethyl methicones; and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups and/or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
It should be noted that "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).
In particular, these oils may be chosen from the following non-volatile non- phenyl silicone oils:
- polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs),
- PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,
- PDMSs comprising at least one aliphatic group and/or at least one functional group such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,
- polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.
The non- volatile non-phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from non- volatile dimethicone oils.
Preferably, these non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones and also PDMSs comprising at least one aliphatic group, in particular C2-C24 alkyl groups and/or at least one functional group such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
The non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen in particular from silicones of formula (Γ):
Figure imgf000022_0001
(Γ)
in which:
i, R2, R5 and Re are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,
X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical,
n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at 25°C is between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10"6 m2/s) and 800 000 cSt (i.e. between 8 mPa.s and 720 000 mPa.s).
As non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those for which:
- the substituents Ri to R<5 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt (i.e. 450 000 mPa.s), for example the product sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt (i.e. 450 000 mPa.s) by the company Dow Corning,
- the substituents Ri to R<5 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt (54 000 mPa.s), for example the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60 000 CS by the company Dow Corning, and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker,
- the substituents Ri to R« and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 100 cSt (i.e. 90 mPa.s) or 350 cSt (i.e. 315 mPa.s), for instance the products sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning® 200 Fluid 100 cSt or Dow Corning® SH 200 Fluid 100 CS; or alternatively sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil DM100 dimethicone,
- the substituents Ri to ; represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt (630 mPa.s), for example the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid TO.7 by the company Momentive.
Non-volatile phenyl silicone oils
The expression "phenylated silicone oil" or "phenyl silicone oil" denotes a silicone oil bearing at least one phenyl substituent.
These phenyl silicone oils may be chosen from those which also bear at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those which do not bear any.
According to the invention, a dimethicone fragment corresponds to the following unit:
-Si(CH3)2-0-, this fragment not being located at one end.
The non- volatile phenyl silicone oil may thus be chosen from:
a) phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (I) below:
R
I R R
R— Si O I I
I I R— Si O Si R
R R I I
I I I R
R— Si O
I
R (I)
in which the groups R, which are monovalent or divalent, represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three, for example at least four, at least five or at least six, phenyl groups. b) phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) below:
R R R
I I I
R Si O Si O Si R
I I I
R R R (II)
in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.
Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (II) comprises at least three, for example at least four or at least five, phenyl groups.
Mixtures of different phenylorganopolysiloxane compounds described above can be used.
Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.
Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may more particularly be made of phenyl silicone oils which do not bear a dimethicone fragment, corresponding to formula (II) in which at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radicals representing methyls.
Such non- olatile phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are in particular sold by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3, 5-trimethyl-l, 1,3,5, 5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane), or the tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning may also be used.
They correspond especially to formulae (III) and (III') below:
Ph Ph Ph Me Ph Me
I I I I I
Me-Si-O-Si-O— Si-Me Ph-Si-O-SrO— Si-Ph
\ \ \ \ \ \
Ph Me Ph ^JJJ^ Me Ph Me ^JJJ^ in which Me represents methyl, and Ph represents phenyl. c) phenyl silicone oils bearing at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (IV) below:
Figure imgf000025_0001
in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents -CH2-CH(CH3)(Ph). d) phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below, and mixtures thereof:
Figure imgf000025_0002
(V)
in which:
- P i to Rio, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, O-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
- m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.
Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0.
Preferably, Ri to Rio, independently of each other, represent a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical, preferably C1-C20 and more particularly Ci-Cie alkyl, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C6-C14 and in particular C10-C13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is preferably C1-C3 alkyl.
Preferably, Ri to Rio may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. Ri to Rio may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
According to a first more particular embodiment of formula (V), mention may be made of:
i) phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof:
Figure imgf000026_0001
in which:
- Ri to R6, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, a preferably C6-C14 aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is C1-C3 alkyl,
- m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.
Preferably, Ri to R6, independently of each other, represent a C1-C30, preferably C1-C20 and in particular C1-C16, alkyl radical, or a C6-C14 aryl radical which is monocyclic (preferably Ce) or polycyclic and in particular C10-C13, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is Ce aryl; the alkyl part is C1-C3 alkyl).
Preferably, Ri to Re may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. Ri to R6 may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and/or n = 0 and/or p = 0 or 1 can be applied, in formula (VI).
According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils bearing at least one dimethicone fragment.
Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula (VI) in which:
A) m=0 and n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 1 and
100.
Preferably, Ri to Re are methyl radicals.
According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyl dimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin-Etsu, KF54HV from Shin-Etsu, KF-50- 300CS from Shin-Etsu, KF-53 from Shin-Etsu or KF-50-100CS from Shin-Etsu.
B) p is between 1 and 100, the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, and n=0.
These phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment correspond more particularly to formula (VII) below:
Figure imgf000027_0001
in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR represents a group -OSiMe3 and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.
According to a first embodiment of non- volatile phenyl silicone bearing at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000 and m is more particularly such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. Use may be made, for example, of trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker.
According to a second embodiment of non- volatile phenyl silicone not bearing a dimethicone fragment, p is equal to 0 and m is between 1 and 1000, and in particular is such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. Phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, sold in particular under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556), may, for example, be used. ii) non-volatile phenyl silicone oils not bearing a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VIII) below, and mixtures thereof:
Figure imgf000028_0001
in which:
- R, independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radical; more particularly, R represent a C1-C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical, preferably a C6-C14 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is Ci- C3 alkyl,
- m and n are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.
Preferably, R, independently of each other, represent a linear or branched Ci-
C30 and in particular a C1-C20, in particular C1-C16 alkyl radical, a monocyclic or polycyclic C6-C14, and in particular C10-C13, aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical of which preferably the aryl part is C6 aryl and the alkyl part is C1-C3 alkyl.
Preferably, the groups R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
The groups R may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and/or n = 0 and/or p = 0 or 1 can be applied, in formula (VIII). According to a preferred embodiment, n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VIII). Preferably, R is a methyl radical.
According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25°C of between 5 and 1500 mm2/s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm2/s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt), may be used.
According to this embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from phenyl trimethicones (when n=0) such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), or else from diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone oil (when m and n are between 1 and 100) such as KF56 A from Shin-Etsu, or the Silbione 70663V30 oil from Rhone-Poulenc (28 cSt). The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C.
e) phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof:
Figure imgf000029_0001
(IX)
in which:
Ri, R2, R5 and Re, which may be identical or different, are an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, are an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical (preferably C6-C14), with the proviso that at least one of R3 and 4 is a phenyl radical,
X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,
n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1 , chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular weight of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol. f) and a mixture thereof. 2. Fluoro oils
According to another embodiment, the first non- volatile oil is chosen from fluoro oils. The fluoro oils that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fiuorosilicones especially as described in document EP-A-847 752, and perfluoro compounds.
According to the invention, the term "perfluoro compounds" means compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced with fluorine atoms.
According to a preferred embodiment, the first fluoro oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluoro oils.
As examples of perfluoro oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of perfluorodecalins and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.
According to one preferred embodiment, the fluoro oil is chosen from perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, and in particular the Fiflow® products sold by the company Creations Couleurs. In particular, use may be made of the fluoro oil whose INCI name is perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference Fiflow 220 by the company F2 Chemicals.
Preferably, the first oily phase comprises at least one first non- volatile oil chosen from the non-phenyl oils of formula (I), the phenyl oils of formula (II), especially (III), of formula (V), in particular (VI) or (VII), and also mixtures thereof.
3. Hydrocarbon-based oils
As indicated previously, a second embodiment consists in using, as first oil phase, at least one hydrocarbon-based oil, chosen in particular from non-volatile oils comprising not more than one free hydroxyl group or not comprising any, or from non- volatile oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, or from apolar hydrocarbon- based non- volatile oils, or mixtures thereof.
These oils will be described in greater detail during the description of the second oily phase, and reference may be made thereto. Second oily phase
The second oily phase comprises at least one second non-volatile or volatile oil, which is immiscible with the first oil, at room temperature. Preferably, the second oily phase comprises at least one second non-volatile oil, which is immiscible with the first oil(s), at room temperature.
This second oily phase may be the continuous phase or the dispersed phase.
The second oil(s) may advantageously be chosen from polar hydrocarbon- based non-volatile oils, in particular chosen from non-volatile oils comprising not more than one free hydroxyl group or not comprising any, or from non-volatile oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, or from apolar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils, or mixtures thereof.
According to a second possibility, the second oil(s) are chosen from silicone oils that are immiscible with the first oil(s). The non- volatile silicone oils listed in the context of the definition of the first oily phase may be used as oil(s) of the second oily phase. Their description will not be repeated in this part of the text and reference may be made thereto, most particularly for the preferred silicones. 1. Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils
The term "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms.
It may thus contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
In particular, the hydrocarbon-based non- volatile polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof: a) non-volatile oils comprising not more than one free hydroxyl group or not comprising any
The second oil(s) may be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprising not more than one free hydroxyl group, or not comprising any. As examples of oils of this type, mention may be made of: i) Ester oils
* Hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and more particularly from 4 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, sesame oil and ximenia seed oil, or mixtures thereof.
* Synthetic glycerides such as those of capric/caprylic acids, Cis-36 acid triglyceride (Dub TGI 24 from Stearinerie Dubois).
* Monoesters or diesters obtained from a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic mono carboxy lie or dicarboxylic fatty acid, in particular comprising from 4 to 40 and in particular from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, optionally comprising a free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and from a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic monoalcohol or polyol, comprising from 2 to 40 and in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms (excluding the carbonyl group) being at least 12 and preferably at least 16, the ester comprising at most one free hydroxyl, if it contains any.
- As examples of monoesters or diesters, mention may be made of purcellin oil
(cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C18 alkyl benzoate such as 2- octyldodecyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2- octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, alcohol or polyalcohol, preferably diol, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate and 2-diethylhexyl succinate; or mixtures thereof.
- Fatty acid monoesters and diesters, in particular of C4-C22 and preferably C6- C22, and especially of octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid, and of C3-C6 glycol, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, are also suitable for use.
- Hydroxylated monoesters and diesters, preferably with a total carbon number ranging from 20 to 70, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate or diisostearyl malate.
- C1-C4 monoesters of N-acylamino acids, for instance those of formula
R1CONR2CHR3 (CH2)nCOOR4 in which Rl represents a C5-C21 alkyl group, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl group, R3 possibly being a hydrogen atom. For example, mention may be made of lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate.
* Pentaerythritol esters of C6-C22 fatty monoacids or diacids, for instance the mixture of esters of pentaerythritol and of isostearic, capric, caprylic and adipic acids (Supermol-L from Croda).
* Polyesters comprising at least three ester functions, of saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, linear, branched or cyclic, optionally hydroxylated, C4-C40 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids and, respectively, of C2-C40 and preferably C3-C40 polyols or monoalcohols; said polyester optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl.
By way of example, mention may also be made of oils comprising three ester functions, of a monohydroxylated acid comprising three carboxylic functions, and of a C2- C4 monoalcohol, in particular triethyl citrate.
By way of example, mention may be made of linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 g/mol).
Esters of branched fatty alcohols or of branched fatty acids, for instance, especially, triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW = 697 g/mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MM = 891 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202 g/mol), poly(2-glyceryl) tetraisostearate (MW = 1232 g/mol), and also those described in patent application EP-A-0 955 039, for instance glyceryl tris(2- decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1143 g/mol) or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1538 g/mol), are also suitable for use.
Mention may also be made of esters of aromatic acids and of alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms, such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757 g/mol).
Use may also be made of polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid triglyceride with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, which is optionally unsaturated, for instance the succinic acid and isostearic acid castor oil sold under the reference Zenigloss by Zenitech. ii) saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monohydroxylated fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and more advantageously from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol; iii) saturated or unsaturated C12-C26 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and also mixtures thereof; iv) dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis; and v) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as the vinylpyrrolidone/l-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 sold or manufactured by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g/mol). b) Non-volatile oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups:
The second oil(s) may be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups and preferably at least three free hydroxyl groups.
According to a first advantageous variant of the invention, the second oil(s) also comprise at least one ester function. Examples of suitable oils that may be mentioned include:
* hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups and advantageously at least three free hydroxyl groups, for instance castor oil;
* hydroxylated esters, preferably with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for instance poly(2-glyceryl) triisostearate (MW = 965 g/mol), poly(2-glyceryl) isostearate; poly(2-glyceryl) diisostearate; poly(3 -glyceryl) diisostearate, glyceryl stearate; glyceryl isostearate; or mixtures thereof;
* esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer of general formula HO-R^OCO-R^COO-R'-VOH, in which:
R1 represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid,
R2 represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue, and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9,
especially the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl diol dimers sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD- DA7®, and
* polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol, in particular such as of dilinoleic acid and of 1,4-butanediol. Mention may especially be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or else copolymers of polyols and of dimer diacids, and esters thereof, such as Hailucent ISDA.
According to a second advantageous variant of the invention, the second hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are chosen from polyhydroxylated alcohols, preferably of C2-C8 and more preferably of C3-C6, comprising two to three hydroxyl groups, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diglycerol, and a mixture thereof.
2. Apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils
The O/O emulsion according to the invention may also comprise, as oil(s) present in the second oily phase, at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and not containing any oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or fluorine atoms.
Advantageously, apolar oil, preferably a hydrogenated apolar oil contains only carbon atoms and hydrogen.
Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:
- liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,
- squalane,
- isoeicosane,
- naphthalene oil, - polybutenes, for instance Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,
- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for instance Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW = 1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW = 6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW = 1000 g/mol), or alternatively Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation,
- decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L- 14,
- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes especially such as: Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals, or alternatively Puresyn 6 sold by ExxonMobil Chemical),
- and mixtures thereof.
3. Volatile silicone or hydrocarbon-based oils
The O/O emulsion according to the invention may also comprise, as oil(s) present in the second oily phase, at least one volatile silicone or hydrocarbon-based oil.
According to the invention, these volatile oils especially facilitate the application of the composition to the skin, the lips or the integuments.
These oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendent or at the end of the silicone chain, or a mixture of these oils.
As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 cSt and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisilo xane, hexamethyldisilo xane, o ctamethyltrisilo xane , decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, especially branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes such as Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, and mixtures thereof.
Use is preferably made of isododecane (Permethyl 99 A), Cs-Ci6 isoparaffins such as Isopar L, E, G or H, or mixtures thereof, optionally combined with decamethyltetrasiloxane or with cyclopentasiloxane.
Use may also be made of volatile fluoro oils.
The emulsion according to the invention more particularly comprises from 5% to 95% by weight and preferably from 30% to 70% by weight of the oil(s) of the first oily phase, relative to the weight of the emulsion.
The emulsion according to the invention more particularly comprises from 5% to 95% by weight and preferably from 30% to 70% by weight of the oil(s) of the second oily phase, relative to the weight of the emulsion.
Preferably, the second oily phase comprises at least one non- volatile oil.
According to this variant, the content of volatile oil of the second oily phase represents from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the emulsion.
In accordance with an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of the oil(s) of the first oily phase relative to the oil(s) of the second oily phase represents from 5/95 to 95/5 and preferably from 30/70 to 70/30. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the O/O emulsion comprises a first oily phase containing at least a first oil chosen from non- volatile silicone oils and a second oily phase containing at least a second oil chosen from non- volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils.
Preferably, the apolar oils are chosen from oils with a viscosity of at least 50 cPs, preferably of at least 60 cPs. According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the apolar non-volatile oil(s) are chosen from hydrogenated or non- hydrogenated polydecenes and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, or mixtures thereof.
According to a second embodiment of the invention, the O/O emulsion comprises a first oily phase containing at least a first oil chosen from non-phenyl nonvolatile silicone oils or phenyl non-volatile silicone oils bearing at least one dimethicone fragment, and a second oily phase containing at least a second oil chosen from non- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprising not more than one free hydroxyl group or not comprising any.
As regards the non-phenyl non- volatile silicone oils, they may preferably be chosen from the silicone oils of formula (Γ).
As regards the non- volatile phenyl silicone oils comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, they may be chosen from the compounds of formula (I) with radicals R such that the silicone is phenylated and comprises at least one dimethicone fragment; (II) with radicals R such that the silicone is phenylated and comprises at least one dimethicone fragment; (IV); (V) with non-zero p, in particular (VI) with non-zero p and especially the variants (A) and (B); (VII) with non-zero p, (IX) with radicals R such that the silicone is phenylated and comprises at least one dimethicone fragment, or mixtures thereof.
More particularly, the second oil(s) are chosen from non-volatile ester oils i), fatty alcohols ii) and mixtures thereof.
According to a third embodiment of the invention, the O/O emulsion comprises a first oily phase containing at least a first oil chosen from non- volatile silicone oils and a second oily phase containing at least a second oil chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon- based oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups and preferably at least three free hydroxyl groups. More particularly, said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprise at least one carboxylic ester group. Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprising three ester functions, of a monohydroxylated acid comprising three carboxylic functions and of a C2-C4 monoalcohol, are also suitable in this variant, as second oil(s). According to a fourth preferred embodiment of the invention, the O/O emulsion comprises a first oily phase containing at least a first oil chosen from phenyl nonvolatile silicone oils not bearing a dimethicone fragment, and a second oily phase containing at least a second oil chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups and preferably at least three free hydroxyl groups, or from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils and even more particularly at least a second oil chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, and preferably at least three free hydroxyl groups.
As regards the non-volatile phenyl silicone oils not bearing a dimethicone fragment, they are more particularly chosen from (I), with radicals R such that the silicone has no dimethicone fragment; (II) with radicals R such that the silicone has no dimethicone fragment, in particular formulae (III) and (ΠΓ); (V) with p = 0; (VI) with p=0; (VII) with p=0; (VIII); (IX) with radicals R such that the silicone has no dimethicone fragment; or mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the apolar non- volatile oil(s) are chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils are chosen from oils with a viscosity of at least 50 cPs, in particular of at least 60 cPs.
In accordance with a fifth embodiment of the invention, the O/O emulsion comprises at least a first polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and at least a second volatile or non-volatile oil, preferably from apolar non- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.
Preferably, the first polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are chosen from ester oils comprising not more than one free hydroxyl group or not comprising any, and preferably from oils also comprising at least three ester functions.
The first polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) may also be chosen from oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups and at least one ester function, or from polyhydroxylated alcohols, and also mixtures thereof.
The second non-volatile apolar oil(s) are preferably chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, or mixtures thereof. In accordance with a sixth embodiment of the invention, the O/O emulsion comprises a first oily phase comprising at least one non-phenyl non-volatile silicone oil and a second oily phase containing at least one phenyl non-volatile silicone oil optionally bearing a dimethicone fragment, or at least one volatile silicone oil.
In accordance with a final embodiment of the invention, the 0/0 emulsion comprises a first oily phase comprising at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil not bearing a dimethicone fragment, and a second oily phase containing at least one nonvolatile phenyl silicone oil bearing at least one dimethicone fragment, or at least one volatile silicone oil.
Preferably, the first non- volatile phenyl silicone oil(s) not bearing a dimethicone fragment are chosen from the compounds of formula (II). As regards the second non-volatile silicone oil(s) bearing at least one dimethicone fragment, they are advantageously chosen from the oils i) of formula (VI), more particularly B) with, for example, the silicones of formula (VII).
As indicated previously, the 0/0 emulsion may comprise at least one volatile oil. More particularly, the first oily phase and/or the second oily phase may comprise at least one volatile oil. It should be noted that the second oily phase may comprise only volatile oils. Reference may be made to that which has been detailed previously regarding the nature of these oils.
STRUCTURING AGENT
As indicated previously, the 0/0 emulsion according to the present invention comprises at least one structuring agent chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, polymeric thickeners and mineral thickeners, and mixtures thereof.
The structuring agent may be incorporated into one and/or the other of the oily phases of the 0/0 emulsion according to the invention. Preferably, the structuring agent is present in the continuous oily phase of the emulsion.
The structuring agent is more particularly chosen as a function of the oil(s) into which it is incorporated.
More particularly, the structuring agent is chosen such that it is compatible with the oil into which it is incorporated. WAXES
The emulsion according to the invention may comprise at least one wax.
More particularly, the wax is chosen such that it is compatible with the oil into which it is incorporated.
Thus, use is preferably made of at least one wax which, when it is mixed with at least one oil (first oil(s) or second oil(s)) (wax/oil proportion: 10/90; 10 g sample) at a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of said wax, leads to the production of a homogeneous mixture.
The term "wax" is understood, within the meaning of the present invention, to mean a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 120°C.
The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.
Preferably, the measuring protocol is as follows:
A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
The wax may especially have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 1 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force, measured at 20°C using the texture analyser sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm, travelling at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/second, and penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, silicone waxes or fluoro waxes, and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
In particular, the waxes have a melting point of greater than 30°C and better still greater than 45°C.
Apolar wax
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar wax" means a wax whose solubility parameter 8a at 25°C as defined below is equal to 0 (J/cm )½.
The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon-based waxes formed solely from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.
In particular, the term "apolar wax" means a wax that is formed solely from apolar wax, rather than a mixture also comprising other types of waxes that are not apolar waxes.
As illustrations of apolar waxes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes and micro waxes, especially polyethylene waxes.
Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies, and Asensa SC 211 sold by Honeywell.
A polymethylene wax that may be mentioned is Cirebelle 108 sold by Cirebelle.
An ozokerite that may be mentioned is Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.
As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445® sold by the company Sonneborn, and Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by the company Paramelt.
As micro waxes that may be used in the O/O emulsions according to the invention as apolar wax, mention may be made especially of polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders.
Polar wax
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" means a wax whose solubility parameter 5a at 25°C is other than 0 (J/cm )½.
In particular, the term "polar wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three- dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
According to this Hansen space:
- 5D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;
- δρ characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
- 5h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and
- 6a is determined by the equation: 5a = (δρ2 + 5h2)½.
The parameters δρ, 6h, 6D and 5a are expressed in (J/cm3)½.
The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon-based, fluoro or silicone waxes, and preferably hydrocarbon-based or silicone waxes.
The term "silicone wax" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, especially comprising Si-0 groups.
The term "hydrocarbon-based wax" means a wax formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
Hydrocarbon-based waxes According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon- based wax.
As a hydrocarbon-based polar wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is in particular preferred.
According to the invention, the term "ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester function. The ester oils may also be hydroxylated.
According to the invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
The following may especially be used as ester wax:
- ester waxes such as those chosen from:
i) waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which Rl and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and the melting point of which varies from 25°C to 120°C. In particular, use may be made, as an ester wax, of a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate. Such waxes are especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypoly ester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® and Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen.
Use may also be made of a glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by the company Clariant.
ii) Bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T- 4S® by the company Heterene.
iii) dicarboxylic acid diester waxes of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturated groups. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.
iv) Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and also the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in patent application FR- A-2 792 190. Mention may be made, as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, of those sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57.
v) Waxes corresponding to the partial or total esters, preferably total esters, of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated C16-C30 carboxylic acid with glycerol. The term "total esters" means that all the hydroxyl functions of glycerol are esterified.
Examples that may be mentioned include trihydroxystearine (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearine (or glyceryl tristearate) and tribehenine (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture. Among the suitable compounds, mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and of 12-hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil, for instance Thixcin R and Thixcin E sold by Elementis Specialties.
vi) Mention may also be made of beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax, and mixtures thereof.
According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. Alcohol waxes that may be mentioned include alcohols, which are preferably linear and preferably saturated, comprising from 16 to 60 carbon atoms, with a melting point of between 25 and 120°C. Examples that may be mentioned include the wax Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol or arachidyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
Silicone waxes
The term "silicone wax" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-0 groups.
Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made especially of those sold under the names Abilwax 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin-Etsu), or 176-11481 (General Electric). The silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones, and also (C2o-C6o)alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C3o-C4s)alkyl dimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones or C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane under the name SW-8005® C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Corning.
Mention may also be made of silicone waxes obtained by esterification with a (poly)alkoxylated silicone, such as silicone beeswax, silicone candelilla wax or silicone carnauba wax.
When the emulsion comprises any, the content of wax(es) is preferably between 0.1% and 20%, preferentially 0.5% and 15% and more particularly 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
PASTY COMPOUNDS
The emulsion according to the invention may comprise at least one compound that is pasty at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.
More particularly, the pasty compound is chosen such that it is compatible with the oil into which it is incorporated.
Thus, use is preferably made of at least one pasty compound which, when it is mixed with at least one oil (first oil(s) or second oil(s)) (pasty compound/oil proportion: 10/90; 10 g sample) at a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of said pasty compound, leads to the production of a homogeneous mixture.
It should be noted that this pasty compound is water-immiscible.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" refers to a compound that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound can be less than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23°C, can represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This liquid fraction at 23 °C preferably represents between 15% and 85% and more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight. Within the context of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty compound may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.
The measuring protocol is as follows:
A sample of 5 mg of pasty compound placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of pasty fatty substance is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the pasty compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the heat consumed by the compound in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instrument, with a temperature rise of 5°C or 10°C per minute, according to the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to make the pasty compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
The heat of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 2°C, formed from a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the pasty compound, preferably from 50% to 100% and more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the pasty compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.
The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C.
The pasty compound is more particularly chosen as a function of the oil(s) into which it is incorporated.
Thus, use is preferably made of at least one pasty compound which, when it is mixed with at least one oil (first oil(s) or second oil(s)) (pasty compound/oil proportion:
25/75; 10 g sample) at a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of said wax until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, which is then allowed to cool to 20°C, does not reveal any oil phase separation greater than 20% by volume, more particularly 10% by volume.
The pasty compound may in particular be chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin.
The pasty compound(s) may be chosen in particular from:
lanolin and derivatives thereof, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins;
- petroleum jelly (also known as petrolatum);
- polyol ethers chosen from C2-C4 polyalkylene glycol pentaerythrityl ethers, fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, and mixtures thereof. For example, mention may be made of polyethylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising 5 oxyethylene units (5 OE) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), polypropylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising five oxypropylene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether) and mixtures thereof, and more especially the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy, which is a mixture in which the constituents are in a 46/46/8 weight ratio: 46% PEG-5 pentaerythrityl ether, 46% PPG-5 pentaerythrityl ether and 8% soybean oil,
- polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds,
- polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds,
- vinyl polymers, especially:
olefin homopolymers and copolymers,
hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,
linear or branched oligomers, which are homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (metfi)acrylates preferably containing a C8-C30 alkyl group,
oligomers, which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C8-C30 alkyl groups, and
oligomers, which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers containing C8-C30 alkyl groups,
- liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 diols,
Among the liposoluble polyethers that are particularly considered are copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C6-C30 long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will be made especially of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides arranged in blocks with an average molecular weight from 1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel,
- esters and polyesters,
Among the esters, the following are especially considered:
- esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of diglycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, for instance bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo, - vinyl ester homopolymers bearing C8-C30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (sold especially under the reference Mexomer PP by the company Chimex),
- the arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo,
- phytosterol esters,
- fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof,
- pentaerythritol esters,
esters of diol dimer and of diacid dimer, where appropriate esterified on the free alcohol or acid function(s) thereof with acid or alcohol radicals, especially dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may be chosen especially from the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof,
- butters of plant origin, such as mango butter, such as the product sold under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sahara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sahara), cocoa butter; and also orange wax, for instance the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,
- totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils, for instance hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated plant oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed plant oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the product sold under the reference Cegesoft® HF 52 from BASF (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,
- hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example Risocast-DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCISV-L sold by Nisshin Oillio, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the pasty compounds that are suitable for use in the invention are chosen from hydrocarbon-based compounds and comprise, besides carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least oxygen atoms. Thus, preferably, the pasty compounds therefore do not comprise any silicon atoms or any fluorine atoms.
According to a preferred embodiment, the pasty compound(s) are chosen from lanolin and derivatives thereof, esters of glycerol oligomers, butters of plant origin, totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils, and hydrogenated castor oil esters, or mixtures thereof.
When the emulsion comprises at least one pasty compound, the content of pasty compound(s) is preferably between 0.1% and 30%> by weight, preferentially 0.5% and 20% by weight and more particularly 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
POLYMERIC THICKENERS
Among the polymeric thickeners that are suitable for use, mention may be made of organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, hydrocarbon-based polyamides, silicone polyamides and dextrin esters, and also mixtures thereof.
More particularly, the polymeric thickener is chosen such that it is compatible with the oil into which it is incorporated.
Thus, use is preferably made of at least one polymeric thickener which, when it is mixed with at least one oil (first oil(s) or second oil(s)) (polymeric thickener/oil proportion: 10/90; 10 g sample) at a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of said polymeric thickener, leads to the production of a homogeneous mixture.
The choice of the polymeric thickener may advantageously be made as a function of the nature of the oils present. For example, if the oil is hydrocarbon-based, it may be advantageous to choose a hydrocarbon-based polymeric thickener, and if the oil is silicone-based, it may be advantageous to choose a silicone polymeric thickener.
If the O/O emulsion comprises any, the content of polymeric thickener(s), expressed as solids, more particularly ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
Organopolysiloxane elastomer
The organopolysiloxane elastomer that may be used as polymeric thickener also has the advantage of giving the composition according to the invention good application properties. It affords a very soft feel and a matt effect after application, which is advantageous especially for application to the skin, in particular for foundation compositions. It may also allow efficient filling of the hollows present on keratin materials.
The term "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" means a supple, deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties and especially with the consistency of a sponge or a supple sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has limited stretchability and contractability. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching.
It is more particularly a crosslfnked organopolysiloxane elastomer.
Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high- energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.
Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for instance, in patent application EP-A-295 886. In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane bearing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane bearing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is performed by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).
Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.
Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.
Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be readily miscible with compound (B).
The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2- phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
Compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methyl- hydrogenosiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.
Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear-chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C. Besides the abovementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes bearing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers bearing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane- methylvinylsiloxane copolymers bearing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers bearing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers bearing trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes bearing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3- trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers bearing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.
In particular, the elastomeric organopolysiloxane may be obtained via reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and of trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.
It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio of the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) to the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range from 1.5/1 to 20/1.
Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefm complexes, chloroplatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support. Catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.
The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing any hydrophilic chains, and in particular not containing any polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxy ethylene or polyoxypropylene) or any polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to a particular mode of the invention, the O/O emulsion comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer free of polyoxyalkylene units and of polyglyceryl units.
In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name).
The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may be conveyed in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon- based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.
Non-emulsifying elastomers are described especially in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in patent application JP-A-61-194009, the content of which is incorporated by way of reference.
The silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder, but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone oil (dimethicone) or cyclic silicone oil (e.g.: cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.
Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used more particularly include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC9040 and DC9041 by the company Dow Corning, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.
According to a particular mode, use is made of a gel of silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 500 cSt, optionally modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
Mention may be made especially of the compounds having the following INCI names:
- dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as USG-105 and USG- 107A from the company Shin-Etsu; DC9506 and DC9701 from the company Dow Corning;
- dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, such as
KSG-6 and KSG-16 from the company Shin-Etsu;
- dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) cyclop entasiloxane, such as KSG-15;
- cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as DC9040, DC9045 and DC5930 from the company Dow Corning;
- dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as DC9041 from the company Dow Corning;
- C4-24 alkyl dimethicone/divinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as NuLastic Silk MA from the company Alzo.
As examples of silicone elastomers dispersed in a linear silicone oil that may advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may especially be made of the following references:
- dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, such as KSG-6 and KSG-16 from the company Shin-Etsu;
- dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as DC9041 from the company Dow Corning.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the O/O emulsion according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer having the INCI name "dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer", preferably with a dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cSt, in particular from 1 to 10 cSt at 25°C, such as the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt) sold under the name DC 9041 by the company Dow Corning.
The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may also be used in powder form: mention may be made of the powders sold under the names Dow Corning 9505 Powder and Dow Corning 9506 Powder by the company Dow Corning, these powders having the INCI name: dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
The organopolysiloxane powder may also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in patent US 5 538 793. Such elastomeric powders are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, SP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the company Shin-Etsu, and have the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer.
Semi-crystalline polymers
The O/O emulsion according to the invention may comprise at least one semi- crystalline polymer. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" means polymers comprising a crystalhzable portion and an amorphous portion and having a first- order reversible change of phase temperature, in particular of melting point (solid-liquid transition). The crystalhzable part is either a side chain (or pendent chain) or a block in the backbone.
When the crystalhzable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a block of the polymer backbone, this crystalhzable block has a chemical nature different than that of the amorphous blocks; in this case, the semi-crystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystalhzable portion is a chain that is pendent on the backbone, the semicrystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.
The melting point of the semicrystalline polymer is preferably less than 150°C. The melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30°C and less than 100°C. More preferably, the melting point of the semi- crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30°C and less than 70°C. The semi-crystalline polymer(s) according to the invention are solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C. The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler, with a temperature rise of 5°C or 10°C per minute. (The melting point under consideration is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram).
The semi-crystalline polymer(s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point that is higher than the temperature of the keratin support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin or the lips.
For the purposes of the invention, the term " ' crystallizable chain or block" means a chain or block which, if it were alone, would change from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly, depending on whether the temperature is above or below the melting point. For the purposes of the invention, a chain is a group of atoms, which are pendent or lateral relative to the polymer backbone. A "block" is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, this group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.
Preferably, the polymer backbone of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the oily phase at a temperature above their melting point.
Preferably, the crystallizable blocks or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. The semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable side chains are homopolymers or copolymers. The semi-crystalline polymers of the invention bearing crystallizable blocks are block or multiblock copolymers. They may be obtained by polymerizing a monomer bearing reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers bearing crystallizable side chains, these side chains are advantageously in random or statistical form.
Preferably, the semicrystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin.
According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from: - homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chain(s),
- polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block,
- polycondensates of aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic/aromatic polyester type, - copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis, and
- acrylate/silicone copolymers.
The semi- crystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from:
- block copolymers of polyolefms of controlled crystallization, the monomers of which are described in EP-A-0 9 1 897,
- polycondensates, especially of aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic/aromatic polyester type,
- copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis,
- homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers or copolymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in document US-A-5 156 91 1 , such as the (Cio-C3o)alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to the Intelimer® products from the company Landec described in the brochure Intelimer® Polymers, Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97), for example the product Intelimer® IPA 13- 1 from the company Landec, which is a polystearyl acrylate with a molecular weight of about 145 000 and a melting point of 49°C,
- homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular bearing fluoro group(s), as described in document WO-A-01/19333,
- acrylate/silicone copolymers, such as copolymers of acrylic acid and of stearyl acrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and of stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may be made in particular of the copolymers sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the names KP-561 (CTFA name: acrylates/dimethicone),
- and mixtures thereof.
Hydrocarbon-based polyamide For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound containing at least two repeating units, preferably at least three repeating units and better still ten repeating units.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "polyamide" means a compound containing at least two, preferably at least three and better still ten amide repeating units.
The term "hydrocarbon-based polyamide" means a polyamide formed essentially of, indeed even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not comprising any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "functionalized chain" means an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional groups or reagents chosen especially from hydroxyl, ether, ester, oxyalkylene and polyoxyalkylene groups.
Advantageously, this polyamide of the emulsion according to the invention has a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100 000 g/mol, especially ranging from 1000 to 100 000 g/mol, in particular ranging from 1000 to 50 000 g/mol, more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30 000 g/mol, preferably from 2000 to 20 000 g/mol and better still from 2000 to 10 000 g/mol.
This polyamide is insoluble in water, especially at 25°C.
According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polyamide is a compound (i), namely a hydrocarbon-based polyamide, in particular a non-silicone polyamide, of formula (la) below:
Figure imgf000060_0001
in which n denotes a whole number of amide units such that the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups; Ri is, independently in each case, an alkyl or alkenyl group containing at least 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 4 to 24 carbon atoms; R2 represents, independently in each case, a
C4 to C42 hydrocarbon-based group, on condition that 50% of the groups R2 represent a C30 to C42 hydrocarbon-based group; R3 represents, independently in each case, an organic group containing at least 2 carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and R4 represents, independently in each case, a hydrogen atom, a Ci to Cio alkyl group or a direct bond to R3 or to another R4, such that the nitrogen atom to which R3 and R4 are both attached forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R4NR3, with at least 50% of the groups R4 representing a hydrogen atom.
In the particular case of formula (la), the optionally functionalized terminal fatty chains are terminal chains linked to the last heteroatom, in this case nitrogen, of the polyamide backbone.
In particular, the ester groups of formula (I), which form part of the terminal and/or pendent fatty chains, represent from 15% to 40% of the total number of ester and amide groups and better still from 20% to 35%>. Furthermore, n advantageously represents an integer ranging from 1 to 5 and better still greater than 2. Preferably, Ri is a C12 to C22 and preferably Ci6 to C22 alkyl group. Advantageously, R2 may be a Go to C42 hydrocarbon-based, preferably alkylene, group. Preferably, R2 is a divalent radical derived from acid dimer. Preferably, at least 50% and better still at least 75% of the groups R2 are groups containing from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. The other groups R2 are C4 to C19 and even C4 to C12 hydrogen-containing groups. Preferably, R3 represents a C2 to C36 hydrocarbon- based group or a polyoxyalkylene group and R4 represents a hydrogen atom. Preferably, R3 represents a C2 to C12, preferably C2, hydrocarbon-based group.
The hydrocarbon-based groups may be linear, cyclic or branched, and saturated or unsaturated groups. Moreover, the alkyl and alkylene groups may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated groups.
Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based polyamide of formula (la) is such that n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, preferably greater than 2, Ri is a C12 to C22 and preferably Ci6 to C22 alkyl group, R2 is a Go to C42 hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a divalent radical derived from acid dimer, R3 represents a C2 to C12, preferably C2, hydrocarbon- based group, and R4 represents a hydrogen atom.
In general, the polyamides of formula (la) are in the form of mixtures of polyamides, these mixtures also possibly containing a synthetic product corresponding to a compound of formula (la) in which n is 0, i.e. a diester.
As examples of hydrocarbon-based polyamides of formula (la) that may be used in the emulsions according to the invention, mention may be made of the commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100, the INCI name of which is ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer, or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, the INCI name of which is ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer tallate copolymer. They are sold, respectively, in the form of a gel at 80% active material in a mineral oil and at 100% active material. They have a softening point of from 88 to 94°C. These commercial products are a mixture of copolymers of a C36 diacid coupled with ethylenediamine, having a weight-average molecular mass of about 6000 g/mol. The terminal ester groups result from the esterification of the remaining acid end groups with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof (also known as cetylstearyl alcohol).
Hydrocarbon-based polyamides that may also be mentioned include polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and a diamine, including compounds containing more than two carbonyl groups and two amine groups, the carbonyl and amine groups of adjacent individual units being condensed in the form of an amide bond. These polyamide resins are especially the products sold under the brand name Versamid® by the companies General Mills, Inc. and Henkel Corp., (Versamid 930, 744 or 1655) or by the company Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp., under the brand name Onamid®, especially Onamid S or C. These resins have a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 6000 to 9000 g/mol. For further information regarding these polyamides, reference may be made to documents US-A-3 645 705 and US-A-3 148 125. Use is made more especially of Versamid® 930 or 744.
It is also possible to use the polyamides sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the references Uni-Rez (2658, 2931 , 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623 and 2662) and the product sold under the reference Macromelt 6212 by the company Henkel. For further information regarding these polyamides, reference may be made to document US-A-5 500 209.
It is also possible to use polyamide resins, such as those disclosed in patents US-A-5 783 657 and US-A-5 998 570.
The polyamide advantageously has a softening point of greater than 65°C, which may be up to 190°C. It preferably has a softening point ranging from 70°C to 130°C and better still from 80°C to 105°C.
Particularly preferably, the polyamide used is Uniclear 100 VG, the INCI name of which is ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer tallate copolymer. Silicone polyamide
The silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
The silicone polyamides may be more particularly polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the general formula I:
Figure imgf000063_0001
1) in which: G' represents C(O) when G represents -C(0)-NH-Y-NH-, and G' represents -NH- when G represents -NH-C(0)-Y-C(0)-,
2) R4, R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from:
- linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, Ci to Go hydrocarbon- based groups, possibly containing in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and which may be partially or totally substituted with fluorine atoms,
- G to Cio aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more O to G alkyl groups,
- polyorganosiloxane chains possibly containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms,
3) the groups X, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched G to C30 alkylenediyl group, possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms,
4) Y is a saturated or unsaturated G to C50 linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene divalent group, which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or may bear as substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, C3 to G cycloalkyl, Ci to C40 alkyl, G to Go aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with one to three G to G alkyl, G to G hydroxyalkyl and G to aminoalkyl groups, or
Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: in which
- T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C24 trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and possibly containing one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and
- R8 represents a linear or branched O-C50 alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain, possibly comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide groups, which may possibly be linked to another chain of the polymer;
- n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200.
According to one embodiment of the invention, 80% of the groups R4, R5, R6 and R7 of the polymer are preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl groups. According to another embodiment, 80% of the groups R4, R5, R6 and R7 of the polymer are methyl groups.
According to the invention, Y may represent various divalent groups, furthermore optionally comprising one or two free valencies to establish bonds with other units of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Y represents a group chosen from:
a) linear Ci to C20 and preferably Ci to Go alkylene groups,
b) C30 to C50 branched alkylene groups possibly comprising rings and unconjugated unsaturations,
c) C5-C6 cycloalkylene groups,
d) phenylene groups optionally substituted with one or more G to C40 alkyl groups,
e) Ci to C20 alkylene groups comprising from 1 to 5 amide groups, f) Ci to C20 alkylene groups comprising one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl, C3 to Cs cycloalkane, Ci to C3 hydroxyalkyl and Ci to Ce aminoalkyl groups,
g) polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:
Figure imgf000065_0001
Figure imgf000065_0002
m in which R4, R5, R6, R7, T and m are as defined above.
According to the invention, the silicone polymer may be a homopolymer, i.e. a polymer comprising several identical units, of formula (I).
According to the invention, it is also possible to use a polymer consisting of a copolymer comprising several different units of formula (I), i.e. a polymer in which at least one of the groups R4, R5, R6, R7, X, G, G', Y, m and n is different in one of the units.
According to one variant of the invention, it is also possible to use a silicone polyamide furthermore comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based unit comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, chosen from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof.
These copolymers may be block polymers or grafted polymers.
In formula (I), the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain in its alkylene part at least one of the following components:
1) one to five amide, urea, urethane or carbamate groups,
2) a C5 or Ce cycloalkyl group, and
3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different Ci to C3 alkyl groups.
In formula (I), the alkylene groups may also be substituted with at least one component chosen from the group formed by: - a hydroxyl group,
- a C3 to C8 cycloalkyl group,
- one to three G to C40 alkyl groups,
- a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three G to C3 alkyl groups,
- a G to C3 hydroxyalkyl group, and
- a G to Cs aminoalkyl group.
a (I), Y may also represent:
Figure imgf000066_0001
in which R represents a polyorganosiloxane chain and T represents a group of formula:
Figure imgf000066_0002
_(CH2)a C (CH2)b Or (CH2)a N (CH2)b
(CH22)),c (CH2)C
in which a, b and c are, independently, integers ranging from 1 to 10, and R13 is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R4, R5, R6 and R7.
In formula (I), R4, R5, R6 and R7 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched G to Go alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-GH7 or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.
According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the silicone polyamide com rises at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV):
Figure imgf000066_0003
(III) or
Figure imgf000067_0001
in which R , R , R , R , X, Y, m and n are as defined above.
In these silicone polyamides of formula (III) or (IV), m ranges from 1 to 700, in particular from 15 to 500 and especially from 50 to 200, and n ranges in particular from 1 to 500, preferably from 1 to 100 and better still from 4 to 25,
- X is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms, especially from 5 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly 10 carbon atoms, and
- Y is preferably an alkylene chain that is linear or branched, or which may comprise rings and/or unsaturations, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 carbon atoms.
In formulae (III) and (IV), the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain in its alkylene portion at least one of the following components:
• one to five amide, urea, urethane or carbamate groups,
• a C5 or Ce cycloalkyl group, and
• a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different Ci to C3 alkyl groups.
In formulae (III) and (IV), the alkylene groups may also be substituted with at least one component chosen from the group consisting of:
- a hydroxyl group,
- a C3 to C8 cycloalkyl group,
- one to three G to C40 alkyl groups,
- a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three G to C3 alkyl groups,
- a Ci to C3 hydroxyalkyl group, and
- a Ci to Cs aminoalkyl group.
In these formulae (III) and (IV), Y may also represent:
Figure imgf000068_0001
in which R8 represents a polyorganosiloxane chain and T represents a group of formula:
R
_(CH2)a C (CH22))b or
(CH2)C
- (CH2)a _N ■(CH2)b -
(CH2)C
in which a, b and c are, independently, integers ranging from 1 to 10, and R13 is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R4, R5, R6 and R7.
In formulae (III) and (IV), R4, R5, R6 and R7 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched G to C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-C3H7 or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.
As has been seen previously, the polymer may comprise identical or different units of formula (III) or (IV).
Thus, the polymer may be a polyamide containing several units of formula (III) or (IV) of different lengths, i.e. a polyamide corresponding to formula (V):
-C(O) NH
Figure imgf000068_0002
in which X, Y, n and R4 to R7 have the meanings given above, mi and m2, which are different, are chosen in the range from 1 to 1000, and p is an integer ranging from 2 to 300. In this formula, the units may be structured to form either a block copolymer, or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer. In this copolymer, the units may be not only of different lengths, but also of different chemical structures, for example containing different groups Y. In this case, the polymer may correspond to formula VI:
:(o)— xH- -C(O)-
Figure imgf000069_0001
in which R4 to R7, X, Y, mi, r , n and p have the meanings given above and Y1 is different from Y but chosen from the groups defined for Y. As previously, the various units may be structured to form either a block copolymer, or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer.
In this first embodiment of the invention, the silicone polyamide may also be formed from a grafted copolymer. Thus, the polyamide containing silicone units may be grafted and optionally crosslinked with silicone chains containing amide groups. Such polymers may be synthesized with trifunctional amines.
In this case, the polymer may comprise at least one unit of formula (VII):
Figure imgf000069_0002
in which X1 and X2, which are identical or different, have the meaning given for X in formula (I), n is as defined in formula (I), Y and T are as defined in formula (I), R14 to R21 are groups chosen from the same group as R4 to R7, mi and mz are numbers in the range from 1 to 1000, and p is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.
In formula (VII), it is preferred that:
- p be in the range from 1 to 25 and better still from 1 to 7,
- R14 to R21 be methyl groups,
- T correspond to one of the following formulae:
Figure imgf000070_0001
Al .
R25
in which R22 is a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from the groups defined for R4 to R7, and R23, R24 and R25 are, independently, linear or branched alkylene groups, and more preferably correspond to the formula:
Figure imgf000070_0002
in particular with R23, R24 and R25 representing -CH2-CH2-,
- mi and mz be in the range from 15 to 500 and better still from 15 to 45,
- Xi and X2 represent -(CH2)io-, and
- Y represent -CH2-.
These polyamides containing a grafted silicone unit of formula (VII) may be copolymenzed with polyamide-silicones of formula (II) to form block copolymers, alternating copolymers or random copolymers. The weight percentage of grafted silicone units (VII) in the copolymer may range from 0.5% to 30% by weight.
As has been seen previously, the siloxane units may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or pendent chains. In the main chain, the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above. In the pendent or grafted chains, the siloxane units may appear individually or in segments. According to a preferred embodiment variant of the invention, use may be made of a copolymer comprising units of formula (III) or (IV) and hydrocarbon-based polyamide units. In this case, the polyamide-silicone units may be located at the ends of the hydrocarbon-based polyamide.
According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone polyamide comprises units of formula III.
Preferably, according to this embodiment, the groups R4, R5, R6 and R7 represent methyl groups, one from among X and Y represents an alkylene group containing 6 carbon atoms and the other represents an alkylene group containing 11 carbon atoms.
n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500; n represents the degree of polymerization DP of the polymer.
Examples of such silicone polyamides that may be mentioned include the compounds sold by the company Dow Corning under the names DC 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15), the INCI name of which is Nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer, i.e. Nylon-611/dimethicone copolymers.
Advantageously, the emulsion used according to the invention comprises at least one polydimethylsiloxane block polymer of general formula (I) with an m value of about 100.
The value "m" corresponds to the degree of polymerization of the silicone portion of the polymer.
More preferably, the emulsion according to the invention comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (III) in which m ranges from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150 and is preferably about 100.
More preferably, R4, R5, R6 and R7 independently represent a linear or branched Ci to Gto alkyl group, preferably a group C¾, C2H5, n-C3H7 or an isopropyl group in formula (III). As examples of silicone polymers that may be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 to 3 of document US-A-5 981 680.
According to a preferred mode, use is made of the polyamide silicone polymer sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 2-8179 (DP 100).
The silicone polymers and/or copolymers used in the emulsion of the invention advantageously have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45°C to 190°C. Preferably, they have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130°C and better still from 80°C to 105°C.
Dextrin esters
The O/O emulsion according to the invention may comprise as polymeric thickener at least one dextrin ester.
In particular, the O/O emulsion preferably comprises at least one preferably C12-C24 and in particular C14-C18 fatty acid ester of dextrin, or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and of a C12-C18 and in particular CH-CI S fatty acid.
Preferably, the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin myristate and/or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as the product sold especially under the name Rheopearl MKL-2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
According to a preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This product may be chosen, for example, from those sold under the names Rheopearl TL®, Rheopearl KL® and Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
MINERAL THICKENERS
Among the mineral thickeners that are suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of modified clays, and silicas, alone or as a mixture. When the 0/0 emulsion comprises any, the content of mineral thickener is advantageously between 0.1% and 20% and preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
Modified clays
The O/O emulsion according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic clay.
The clays may be natural or synthetic, and they are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a Cio to C22 ammonium chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites and vermiculites.
They are preferably chosen from hectorites.
Hectorites modified with a Cio to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis or bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (87% isododecane/10% disteardimonium hectorite/3% propylene carbonate) by the company Elementis, are preferably used as lipophilic clays.
Lipophilic clay may especially be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10% and more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
Silicas
The O/O emulsion according to the invention may also comprise, as thickener, a fumed silica or silica aerogel particles. a) Fumed silica
Fumed silica which has undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment is most particularly suitable for use in the invention. This is because it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is especially possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
The hydrophobic groups may be:
- trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot;
- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS- 610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.
The fumed silicas may be present in an O/O emulsion according to the present invention in a content of between 0.1% and 40% by weight, more particularly between 1% and 15% by weight and even more particularly between 2% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated. b) Hydrophobic silica aerogels
The O/O emulsion according to the invention may also comprise, as mineral thickener, at least silica aerogel particles.
Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker CJ., and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.
The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2/g and better still from 600 to 800 m2/g, and a size expressed as the volume- mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μιτι, better still from 1 to 1000 μηι, preferably from 1 to 100 μητ, in particular from 1 to 30 μηι, more preferably from 5 to 25 μιη, better still from 5 to 20 μπι and even better still from 5 to 15 μπι.
According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 μιη, preferably from 5 to 25 μπι, better still from 5 to 20 μιη and even better still from 5 to 15 μηι.
The specific surface area per unit mass may be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
The sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g.
The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tapped density p ranging from 0.02 g/cm3 to 0.10 g/cm3, preferably from 0.03 g/cm3 to 0.08 g/cm3 and in particular ranging from 0.05 g/cm3 to 0.08 g/cm3.
In the context of the present invention, this density, known as the tapped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol:
40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on a Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 tapping actions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of tapped powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The tapped density is determined by the ratio m V f, in this instance 40 V f (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g)- According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2/cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2/cm3 and better still from 15 to 40 m2/cm3.
The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the relationship: Sv = SM X p; where p is the tapped density, expressed in g/cm3, and SM is the specific surface area per unit of mass, expressed in m2/g, as defined above.
Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
The absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
It is measured according to what is known as the wet point method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measurement of the wet point, described below:
An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is carried out using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until conglomerates of oil and powder have formed. From this point, the oil is added at the rate of one drop at a time and the mixture is subsequently triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.
The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably of silyl silica (INCI name: silica silylate). The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7 470 725.
Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface- modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably of the INCI name Silica silylate.
As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g.
Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
Use will preferably be made of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g.
Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are present in the O/O emulsion according to the invention in a solids content ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the emulsion comprises at least one structuring agent chosen from waxes and pasty compounds, and mixtures thereof.
According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the O/O emulsion comprises:
- a first oily phase containing at least a first oil chosen from non- volatile phenyl or non-phenyl silicone oils, - a second oily phase containing at least a second oil chosen from non- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, preferably at least three free hydroxyl groups, and
- a pasty compound chosen from lanolin and derivatives thereof, esters of glycerol oligomers, butters of plant origin, totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils, and hydrogenated castor oil esters, or mixtures thereof, and more particularly castor oil esters.
Processes
The present invention is also directed towards processes for preparing the emulsion according to the invention.
The first oily phase is prepared in a first stage, and the second oily phase is prepared in a second stage.
The incorporation of the structuring agent or of each structuring agent into the oily phase into which they are to be incorporated is performed before the actual emulsification.
The mixing of the structuring agent(s) with the oily phase concerned preferably takes place at a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of said structuring compound(s) and the homogenization is advantageously performed at a temperature greater than or equal to this melting point. The mixing of the oily phase with the structuring agent(s) may take place using manual stirring or mechanical stirring of Moritz blender type, Rayneri or ultra-Turrax blending, or alternatively by ultrasonic homogenization.
Next, the process for preparing the emulsion may be continued, for example, according to the variants described below.
According to a first variant, the process for preparing the emulsion comprises the following steps, in this order:
- mixing of the first oily phase and of the second oily phase, one of these oily phases at least comprising at least one structuring agent,
- emulsification of the mixture,
- introduction of the solid microparticles into the emulsion. The first oily phase and the second oily phase are mixed together. The emulsification of these two oily phases leads to the creation of an interface, and more particularly a dispersion of one of the oily phases in the other oily phase.
In a second stage, the solid microparticles are added to the emulsion formed and the mixture is then agitated, either by means of a combination of shear forces or by ultrasonication.
According to a second variant, the process for preparing the emulsion is such that the solid microparticles are introduced into the first oily phase or into the second oily phase.
In this case, the process comprises the following steps, in this order:
- introduction of the solid microparticles into the first oily phase or into the second oily phase, respectively, one of the two oily phases comprising at least one structuring agent,
- introduction of the second oily phase or of the first oily phase, respectively,
- emulsification of the mixture.
According to this second variant, the microparticles are first introduced into one of the two oily phases, and a combination of shear forces or ultrasonication is then applied, so as to obtain a homogeneous dispersion of said microparticles in said oily phase. The other oily phase is then added.
It should be noted that if the oily phase into which the microparticles are introduced comprises at least one structuring agent, this or these agents are added and mixed with said oily phase before the addition of the solid microparticles, as indicated previously.
If the second oily phase comprises at least one structuring agent and/or at least one thickener, then this or these compounds are incorporated and mixed with said oily phase. The oily phase thus prepared is then emulsified with the first oily phase comprising the solid microparticles, optionally one or more structuring agents.
According to a third variant, the process for preparing the emulsion comprises the following steps, in this order:
- simultaneous introduction of the solid microparticles, the first oily phase and the second oily phase, - emulsification of the mixture.
According to this variant, the emulsion is obtained by mixing the solid microparticles and the two oily phases with vigorous stirring.
Once again, if one and/or the other oily phase comprises at least one structuring agent, this or these ingredient(s) are incorporated beforehand and mixed into the oily phase in question following the protocol mentioned above.
Emulsification takes place by subjecting the mixture of the two oily phases comprising, if appropriate, at least one structuring agent, and the solid microparticles to a combination of shear forces or ultrasonication, to obtain homogeneity thereof.
The term "homogeneity" of an emulsion is intended to denote an emulsion in which the drops of inner phases are uniformly dispersed in the continuous or outer oily phase.
The drops of dispersed phases in the emulsion may be very fine, in particular ranging from 0.1 to 10 μηι, or may be coarser, in particular ranging from 10 μηι to 1 cm.
A person skilled in the art may choose the conditions and the device that are the best suited for obtaining the combination of forces necessary for obtaining the targeted type of emulsion, especially for obtaining the targeted droplet size.
This combination of ferees may be obtained by subjecting the first and second oily phases or the emulsion to manual shaking or to mechanical stirring with a blender such as a Moritz, Rayneri or Ultra-Turrax blender, or alternatively by ultrasonic homogenization.
The speed of blending or stirring for obtaining a homogeneous phase or emulsion may depend on various factors such as its composition or its volume.
The various stirring parameters, especially the speed, may be determined by a person skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge and, where appropriate, by means of a few routine tests.
Usually, this operation is performed at a temperature between 10 and 50°C; advantageously at a temperature between 1 and 30°C. In the description and in the examples that follow, unless otherwise mentioned, the percentages are weight percentages and the ranges of values written in the form "between ... and ..." include the stated lower and upper limits. The examples below are presented as nonlimiting illustrations of the field of the invention.
EXAMPLES
EXAMPLE OF FORMULATION USING A RAYNERI BLENDER
Preparation protocol:
The emulsion is prepared according to the following steps:
- The pasty compound is first incorporated into an oil (corresponding to a second oil as defined in the description above), for example castor oil, in a beaker. The mixture is heated for about 15 minutes to 50°C with slow stirring using a Rayneri blender until the pasty compound has melted,
- This mixture is stirred at 1 100 rpm. Another oil (corresponding to a first oil in the description above), for example silicone oil, is then added and stirring is continued for a further 5 minutes after the addition of this other oil,
- The solid microparticles are then introduced. This mixture is stirred for 5 minutes, still at 1100 rpm,
- The heating is then switched off and the mixture is cooled to room temperature, i.e. about 22°C.
A Pickering emulsion is thus obtained.
The amounts are indicated as weight percentages.
Examples 1 to 3: Emulsions prepared using bowl particles comprising the methylsilanol/silicate crosslinked polymer and using a pasty compound
The particles used are sold under the name NLK-506 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat, and are also known as methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer bowls. Preparation protocol:
- The pasty compound is incorporated into the castor oil. The mixture is heated to 50°C with slow stirring using a Rayneri blender until the pasty compound has melted: about 15 minutes.
- The resulting mixture is stirred at 1100 rpm and the silicone oil is then added slowly. The mixture is stirred for a further 5 minutes after the incorporation of the oil.
- Solid particles are added and the mixture is stirred for 5 minutes.
- The heating is switched off and the mixture is allowed to cool to room temperature (about 22°C).
Figure imgf000082_0001
It is observed using a Leica DMLB100 microscope with a x lO objective lens that Pickering emulsions are indeed obtained.
Said emulsion is stable for 15 days at 23°C.
No phase separation of an oil is observed either. Examples 4 and 5: Emulsions prepared using bowl particles comprising the methylsilanol/silicate crosslinked polymer and using a wax
The particles used are sold under the name NLK-506 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat, and are also known as methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer bowls.
Preparation protocol:
- Wax is incorporated into castor oil. The mixture is heated to 90°C-92°C for carnauba wax or 105°C for the mixture of long-chain fatty alcohols and hydrocarbon wax with slow stirring using a Rayneri blender until the wax has melted, and the mixture is then left stirring for 15 minutes,
- The mixture is stirred at 1100 rpm and silicone oil is then added slowly. The mixture is stirred for 10-15 minutes after the incorporation of the oil,
- The solid particles are added and the mixture is left stirring for 15 minutes,
- The heating is switched off and the mixture is allowed to cool to room temperature (about 22°C)
Starting materials Example 4 Example 5
PDMS oil 100 cSt (g/100 g) 45 45 (Belsil DM 100 sold by Wacker)
Castor oil (g/100 g) 45 45
( Codex sold by Interchimie)
Polyphenyltrimethylsiloxydimethylsiloxane (g/100 g)
(Belsil PDM 1000 by Wacker)
Carnauba wax (g/100 g) (Carnauba Wax #1 Flakes N.F. SP 63 5
sold by Strahl & Pitsch - Cerauba Tl sold by Baerlocher)
Mixture of linear long-chain (C30-C50) fatty alcohol and of 5 hydrocarbon containing the same number of carbons (80/20)
(g/100 g)
(Dow Corning 2-8178 Gellant sold by Dow Corning)
Solid particles (g/100 g) 5 5
Silicone resin bowl microparticles (NLK-506 sold by Takemoto
Oil & Fat) Total 100 100
Said emulsion is stable for 15 days at 23°C.
Example 6: Emulsions prepared using bowl particles comprising the methylsilanol/silicate crosslinked polymer and using a thickener
The particles used are sold under the name NLK-506 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat, and are also known as methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer bowls.
Preparation protocol:
- The thickener is incorporated into the castor oil. The mixture is heated at 75°C with slow stirring using a Rayneri blender until the gelling agent has melted, followed by stirring for 15 minutes.
- The resulting mixture is stirred at 1100 rpm and the silicone oil is then added slowly. The mixture is stirred for 10-15 minutes after the incorporation of the oil.
- Solid particles are added and the mixture is stirred for 15 minutes.
- The heating is switched off and the mixture is allowed to cool to room temperature (about 22°C).
Starting materials Example 6
PDMS oil 100 cSt (g/100 g)
45
(Belsil DM 100 sold by Wacker)
Castor oil (g/100 g)
45
(Codex sold by Interchimie)
Dextrin palmitate (g/100 g)
5
(Rheopearl KL2 sold by Chiba Flour milling)
Solid particles (g/lOOg)
Silicone resin bowl microparticles (NLK-506 5
sold by Takemoto Oil & Fat)
Total 100 The emulsions obtained in Examples 1 to 6 above have suitable stability properties.
Thus, the production of Pickering O/O emulsions was confirmed by microscope.
Moreover, for all the emulsions obtained in Examples 1 to 6, it was observed that they were stable, in other words that no phase separation of the oils was observed.
Example 7; Lipstick
In this example, two pasty compounds and an oil bearing an OH function are used (diisostearyl malate and castor oil)
Starting materials Example
7
Hydrocarbon-based phase
Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Crodamol PTIS-LQ-(MH) sold by 6.9
Croda)
Castor oil (g/100 g) 7.3
(Codex sold by Interchimie)
Diisostearyl malate 6.8
(C18-C36) acid triglyceride 12.8
Polybutene 12.8
(Indopol HI 00 sold by Ineos)
Vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer 5
(Antaron V-216 sold by ISP)
Bis-diglyceryl poly(2-acyladipate) 6.1
(Softisan 649 sold by Cremer Oleo)
Silicone phase
Trimethylsilo xyphenyl dimethicone 29.7
(Belsil PDM 1000 sold by Wacker)
Microparticles
Solid particles (g/100 g) 3.1 silicone resin bowl microparticles (NLK-506 sold by Takemoto Oil &
Fat) Texturizers
Hydroxystearic acid 1.7
Polyethylene 1
(Arsensa SC 211 sold by Honneywell Specialty Chemicals)
Trihydroxystearine 1
Dye
Dyestuffs 5.8
Total 100
Example 8: Lipstick
In this example, the hydrocarbon-based phase comprises a pasty compound bearing an OH function.
Starting materials Example
8
Hydrocarbon-based phase
Polybutene 12.8
(Indopol HI 00 sold by Ineos)
Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Crodamol PTIS-LQ-(MH) sold by 32.5
Croda)
Bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytostearyl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate 12
(Plandool-G sold by Nippon Fine Chemical)
Silicone phase
Trimethylsilo xyphenyl dimethicone 29.7
(Belsil PDM 1000 sold by Wacker)
Microparticles
Solid particles (g/100 g) 3.1
Silicone resin bowl microparticles (NLK-506 sold by Takemoto Oil &
Fat)
Texturizers
Hydroxystearic acid 1.7
Polyethylene 1 (Arsensa SC 211 sold by Honneywell Specialty Chemicals)
Trihydroxystearine 1
Dye
Dyestuffs 5.8
Total 100
The following test is performed, in order to evaluate the stability of the lipstick compositions according to Examples 7 and 8 above.
The two compositions are centrifuged for 1 minute at 450g. No instability is observed. In particular, the dyestuffs do not sediment out. Furthermore, no leaching of oil is observed.
In addition, the compositions of Examples 7 and 8 show very good thermal stability. Thus, no modification of the compositions was visually observed even after 5 months at room temperature, at 4°C, at 47°C and during a temperature cycle.
Finally, each of the compositions gives a uniform, sparingly tacky deposit with a very good level of gloss (evaluated using a Samba polarimetric camera and a Chromasphere SEI-M-0738-CHRO-10 as described in patent application FR 2 829 344).

Claims

1. Oil/oil emulsion comprising at least:
- a first oily phase comprising at least a first non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils and fluoro oils,
- a second oily phase comprising at least a second non-volatile or volatile oil, which is immiscible with the first oil(s), at 2 °C,
- at least one structuring agent chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, polymeric thickeners, mineral thickeners and mixtures thereof, and
- solid microparticles having at least one curved part and at least one break in the curvature of said curved part.
2. Oil/oil emulsion according to Claim 1, in which the solid microparticles comprise several curvatures.
3. Oil/oil emulsion according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the solid microparticles comprise at least one concave part and at least one convex part.
4. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the microparticles have a form chosen from forms of "bowl", "golf ball" and "polytope" type.
5. Oil/oil emulsion according to Claim 1, in which the solid microparticles comprise a single curvature.
6. Oil/oil emulsion according to Claim 5, in which the solid microparticles are fusiform, hemispherical microparticles.
7. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the microparticles are such that their largest dimension ranges from 0.1 to 100 μιη, preferably from 0.1 to 50 μιη, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 20 μιη.
8. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total amount of solid microparticles comprising at least one curved part and at least one break in the curvature of said curved part ranges from 1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
9. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said non- volatile first oil or second oil, preferably said first oil, is chosen from silicone oils and fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof, and more particularly from non-phenyl non-volatile silicone oils; phenyl non-volatile silicone oils, optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment; fluoro oils; or mixtures thereof.
10. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-volatile first or second oil, preferably the second oil, is chosen from polar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils, in particular chosen from non-volatile oils comprising not more than one free hydroxyl group or not comprising any, or from non-volatile oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, or from apolar hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oils, or mixtures thereof.
11. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the first oily phase contains at least a first oil chosen from non- volatile silicone oils and the second oily phase contains at least a second oil chosen from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils.
12. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, in which the first oily phase contains at least a first oil chosen from non-phenyl non- volatile silicone oils or phenyl non- volatile silicone oils bearing at least one dimethicone fragment, and the second oily phase contains at least a second oil chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprising not more than one free hydroxyl group or not comprising any.
13. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, in which the first oily phase contains at least a first oil chosen from non- volatile silicone oils and the second oily phase contains at least a second oil chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups and preferably at least three free hydroxyl groups.
14. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, in which the first oily phase contains at least a first oil chosen from phenyl non-volatile silicone oils not bearing a dimethicone fragment, and the second oily phase contains at least a second oil chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups and preferably at least three free hydroxyl groups, or from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils.
1 . Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, in which the first oily phase contains at least a first oil chosen from non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oils and the second oily phase contains at least a second oil chosen from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils.
16. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, in which the first oily phase contains at least a first oil chosen from non-phenyl non-volatile silicone oils and the second oily phase contains at least a second oil chosen from phenyl non-volatile silicone oils optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment, or at least one volatile silicone oil.
17. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, in which the first oily phase contains at least a first oil chosen from phenyl non-volatile silicone oils not bearing a dimethicone fragment, and the second oily phase contains at least a second oil chosen from phenyl non- volatile silicone oils bearing at least one dimethicone fragment, or at least one volatile silicone oil.
18. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oil content of the first oily phase represents from 5% to 95% by weight and preferably from 30%) to 70%) by weight, relative to the weight of the emulsion.
19. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oil content of the second oily phase represents from 5%> to 95% by weight and preferably from 30%) to 70%) by weight, relative to the weight of the emulsion.
20. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio of the oil(s) of the first oily phase relative to the oil(s) of the second oily phase represents from 5/95 to 95/5 and preferably from 30/70 to 70/30.
21. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the waxes are hydrocarbon-based or fiuoro waxes or waxes of plant, animal and/or synthetic origin and especially chosen from (i) apolar waxes such as hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes and polyethylene microwaxes and (ii) polar waxes such as hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance ester waxes or alcohol waxes or alternatively such as silicone waxes, for instance alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones, and also (C2o-C6o)alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C3o-C45) lkyl dimethicones or silicone waxes obtained by esterification with a (poly)alkoxylated silicone such as siliconized beeswax, siliconized candelilla wax and siliconized carnauba wax.
22. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a wax content of between 0.1% and 20%, in particular between 0.5% and 15%, for example between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
23. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the pasty compounds are chosen from (i) lanolin and derivatives thereof such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters, for instance isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins, (ii) petroleum jelly, (iii) polyol ethers, (iv) polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, (v) polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds, (vi) vinyl polymers, (vii) liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 diols, (viii) esters and polyesters such as esters of a glycerol oligomer, vinyl ester homopolymers containing C8-C30 alkyl groups, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof, pentaerythritol esters, esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, butters of plant origin, totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils, and hydrogenated castor oil esters, and mixtures thereof.
24. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a content of pasty compound(s) of between 0.1% and 30%, in particular between 0.5% and 20%, for example between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
25. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polymeric thickener is chosen from organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, hydrocarbon-based polyamides, silicone polyamides, dextrin esters, and also mixtures thereof, the organopolysiloxane elastomers being especially chosen from crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers, which are advantageously non-emulsifying, the semi-crystalline polymers being especially chosen from (i) homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chain(s), (ii) polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, (iii) polycondensates of aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic/aromatic polyester type, (iv) ethylene and propylene copolymers prepared via metallocene catalysis, and (v) acrylate/silicone copolymers.
26. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a content of polymeric thickener(s) of between 0.1% and 40%, in particular between 0.1% and 20%, for example between 0.1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
27. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the mineral thickener is chosen from modified clays, silicas such as fumed silica and hydrophobic silica aerogels, and mixtures thereof.
28. Oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a content of mineral thickener(s) of between 0.1 % and 20% and in particular between 0.1% and 10%, relative to the total weight of the oil(s) into which they are incorporated.
29. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one oil/oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims.
30. Use of solid microparticles having at least one curved part and at least one break in the curvature of said curved part, for stabilizing an O/O emulsion comprising at least a first oily phase comprising at least a first non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils and fluoro oils, and at least a second oily phase comprising at least a second volatile or non-volatile oil that is immiscible with the first oil(s) at 25°C, and at least one structuring agent chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, polymeric thickeners, mineral thickeners and mixtures thereof.
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FR3095758A1 (en) 2019-05-06 2020-11-13 L'oreal Oil-in-oil emulsion with at least one hydrophobic coated metal oxide and at least two immiscible oils comprising a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil and a non-volatile silicone oil

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FR3031673B1 (en) 2018-09-28
FR3031673A1 (en) 2016-07-22

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