WO2015097491A1

WO2015097491A1 - Equipment for wave formation on the hair of a user, associated kit and method

Info

Publication number: WO2015097491A1
Application number: PCT/IB2013/003001
Authority: WO
Inventors: Kiyofumi Matsumoto; Yukari Suzuki; Tomotaka Michitsuji; Anne Debauge
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2013-12-23
Filing date: 2013-12-23
Publication date: 2015-07-02
Also published as: CN105848514A; JP2017500950A; KR20160102432A

Abstract

The equipment (14) comprises an insulation sheet (20), intended to be placed in contact with the hair of the user; The insulation sheet (20) is flexible to be wrapped around a curler (12), the insulation sheet (20) comprising at least one insulation layer (24) comprising chloroprene rubber.

Description

Equipment for wave formation on the hair of a user, associated kit and method

The present invention concerns an equipment for wave formation on the hair of a user, comprising an insulation sheet, intended to be placed in contact with the hair of the user.

Current perm technology for wave formation on the hair of a user comprises the following two steps.

A reducing step is first carried out for cleaving the cystine bond in hair keratin, using a reducing agent, and subsequently, an oxidizing step is done for restoring the bond in the reduced keratin, using an oxidizer.

Normally, during the reducing step, the reducing agent is applied after winding the hair on a perm curler. The agent is typically a liquid, a gel or a cream of low viscosity, thereby easily dripping onto the scalp while applying.

This causes the customers discomfort and scalp irritation. Moreover, such scalp discomfort makes it difficult to conduct hair coloration on the same day.

In some instances, the curler which is used to roll the strand of hair is heated to enhance the effect of the reducing agent used in the reducing step. The amount of reducing agent can be decreased accordingly, which limits potential discomfort for the user.

The use of heated curlers is however not fully satisfactory. Indeed, the curler generates heat in the vicinity of the scalp, which is a sensitive part of the skin.

The heating can be sometimes unpleasant, and even painful for the user.

In order to overcome this drawback, JP 2005-348 965 provides an insulation sheet comprising a central slit. The strand of hair to be treated is engaged through the slit and the insulation sheet is applied on the scalp. The sheet provides a shield against the heat generated by the curler.

However, the handling of the insulation sheet, in coordination with a clamp to surround the curler and the strand of hair is complicated to put in place.

Moreover, the equipment is quite heavy, which can also be a discomfort for the user. One aim of the invention is to obtain equipment for wave formation on the hair of a user, the equipment being easy to handle and well adapted to protect the user, and which provides a strong and uniform curling effect on the hair of the user.

To this end, the invention concerns an equipment of the above type, wherein the insulation sheet is flexible to be wrapped around a curler, the insulation sheet comprising at least one insulation layer comprising chloroprene rubber.

The equipment according to the invention may comprise one or more of the following feature(s), taken in isolation, or according to any suitable technical combination: - the thickness of the insulation layer is smaller than 5 mm, preferably smaller than 3 mm and is advantageously comprised between 0.1 mm and 0.5 mm;

- the insulation sheet comprises an inner waterproof layer attached on an inner surface of the insulation layer ;

- the inner waterproof layer covers only part of the inner surface of the insulation layer ;

- the inner waterproof layer is a silicone polymer layer;

- it comprises an outer reinforcement layer, assembled on the insulation layer ;

- the outer reinforcement layer is made of a fabric, advantageously a woven, knitted or nonwoven layer;

- the insulation sheet comprises a main insulating body delimiting a slit, and a strip, projecting from the main body, the strip being able to be rolled around a curler ;

- the strip projects from an edge of the main body ;

- the strip projects from a side of the slit;

- the strip is able to be moved between a curler introduction position, in which the strip is apart from the slit, and a curler wrapping position, in which the strip is at least partially inserted into the slit.

The invention also concerns a wave formation kit comprising:

- a curler ;

- an equipment as described above.

The kit according to the invention may comprise the following feature:

- the curler comprises a curling body and a heating member received into the curling body.

The invention also concerns a method for wave formation on the hair of a user comprising the following steps:

- providing a kit according as described above;

- placing a curler and a strand of hair on the insulation sheet;

- rolling at least part of the insulation sheet around the curler and the strand of hair to wrap the curler;

- locking the part of the strip around the curler.

The method according to the invention may comprise the following feature:

- the insulation sheet delimits a slit, the method comprising the following steps:

- inserting a strand of hair through the slit ;

- placing the curler around the strand of hair ;

- engaging a free edge of the part of the insulation sheet into the slit. The invention will be better understood, upon reading of the following description, given solely as an example, in view of the following drawings, in which:

- figure 1 is an front inner view of a first equipment for wave formation according to the invention ;

- figure 2 is a cross sectional view of the equipment of figure 1 along line ll-ll ;

- figure 3 is a back view of the equipment of figure 1 ;

- figures 4 to 6 disclose successive steps of a wave formation method using a wave formation kit comprising the equipment of figure 1 ;

- figure 7 is a perspective front view of a second equipment according to the invention ;

- figure 8 is a back view of the equipment of figure 7;

- figures 9 to 12 illustrate successive steps of a wave formation method, using a kit comprising the second equipment according to the invention.

A first wave formation kit 10 intended to form waves on the hair of the user is illustrated in figures 1 to 6.

The kit 10 is intended for applying a perm cosmetic product onto strands of hair of the user, to form waves on the hair.

As shown in these figures, the kit 10 comprises a curler 12 and an auxiliary equipment 14 for wave formation. The equipment 14 is configured to confine a strand of hair with the perm cosmetic composition between the curler 12 and the equipment 14.

The perm cosmetic composition generally comprises a hair reshaping agent for cleaving the cystine bonds in hair keratin. The hair reshaping agent is for example chosen among thiol reducing agents and non-thiol reducing agents.

The thiol reducing agent may preferably be chosen from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and derivatives thereof, in particular esters thereof such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and derivatives thereof, in particular esters thereof such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and derivatives thereof, in particular esters thereof such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethyleneglycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and derivatives thereof, in particular CM acyl derivatives thereof such as N-acetylcystearnine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and derivatives thereof, in particular esters; cysteine and derivatives thereof, in particular esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine and cysteine alkyl esters; and salts thereof.

The "non-thiol reducing agent" here means a reducing agent with no thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may preferably be chosen from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. More preferably, the non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably alkali metal or alkali earth metal sulfites and bisulfites, and more preferably sodium sulfites and bisulfites.

In a variation, the cosmetic composition comprises an oxidizing agent for restoring the bond in the reduced keratin. The oxidizing agent is for example chosen among hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides peroxygenated salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis.

For example, the oxidizing agent can be chosen from aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates and persalts such as perborates and persulphates. In a preferred embodiment, the oxidizing agent may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide and bromates such as alkali metal bromates.

As shown in figure 4, the curler 12 comprises a rod 16 and advantageously, a heating member 18 lodged into the rod 16.

The rod 16 is hollow or solid. It defines an outer peripheral surface, of revolution around an axis A-A', onto which the hair strand is applied and rolled.

The heating member 18 is able to be activated to heat the outer surface of the rod 16 and the strand of hair, in particular to enhance the interaction between the cosmetic product and the hair.

As shown in figure 1 to 3, the equipment 14 comprises an insulation sheet 20, able to be at least partially rolled around the curler 12 and the hair of the user, and a locking assembly 22 able to retain the sheet in a rolled configuration.

The total inner area of the insulation sheet 20 is for example higher than 10 cm² and is lower than 150 cm².

According to the invention, as shown in figure 2, the insulation sheet 20 comprises at least a central insulation layer 24. It advantageously comprises an inner waterproof layer 26, laminated on the inner surface of the insulation layer 24 and an outer reinforcing layer 28, laminated on an outer surface of the insulation layer 24. It also further comprises an additional insulation layer 29 laminated on an outer surface of the outer reinforcing layer 28.

In a variation, the insulation sheet 20 comprises a central insulation layer 24, an outer reinforcing layer 28, and an additional insulation layer 29, without inner waterproof layer.

The insulation layer 24 is made of chloroprene rubber, also named Neoprene™. chloroprene rubber or Neoprene™ is a synthetic rubber which is produced by polymerization. It has generally the following chemical composition: -[ CH₂-C(CI) = CH- CH₂]_n-- Chloroprene rubber is usually produced by free radical polymerization of 2- chlorobutadiene. Advantageously, the chloroprene polymer is then crosslinked by a crosslinker such as bifunctional nucleophiles, metal oxides (such as zinc oxide) and thiourease.

The thickness of the chloroprene rubber layer is smaller than 5 mm, preferably smaller than 3 mm and is comprised advantageously between 0.1 mm and 0.5 mm.

The chloroprene rubber layer is flexible to be deformed by touch, for example by pinching between two fingers of an adult human being.

The chloroprene rubber layer is lightweight. It has a density advantageously lower than 1 .5 g/cm³, and preferentially comprised between 1 .2 g/cm³ and 1 .3 g/cm³.

Its elastic module is higher than 0.01 Mpa and may be comprised between 1 MPa and 20 MPa; and its compression rate is comprised between 30 Shore A and 100 Shore A. Elastic module and Shore compression rate are measured according to ISO 868 and ISO 7619 standards.

The inner waterproof layer 26 is laminated on the inner surface of the insulation layer 24. In the example shown in figures 1 to 6, it only covers partially the outer surface of the insulation layer 24.

The inner waterproof layer 26 is for example made of a silicone polymer. The silicone polymer provides humidity retention, waterproof and heat resistance effects.

The inner waterproof layer 26 is also flexible to be deformed by touch, for example by pinching between two fingers of an adult human being.

The thickness of the inner waterproof layer is lower than 1 mm and is also comprised between 0.1 mm and 0.5 mm.

The inner waterproof layer 26 is able to confine the cosmetic product located between the insulation sheet 20 and the curler 12, in order to favor its application on the hair of the user.

The outer reinforcing layer 28 is advantageously made of a fabric, in particular a fiber fabric such as a woven, a knitted fabric, or a nonwoven fabric.

Its thickness is lower than 1 mm and is advantageously comprised between 0.1 mm and 0.5 mm.

The outer reinforcing layer 28 has a higher strength than the insulation layer 24. This higher strength is characterized by a higher Young's Modulus.

The additional insulation layer 29 is advantageously made of chloroprene rubber, also named Neoprene™. It advantageously has the same features as the insulation layer 24. In the example of figure 1 , the insulation sheet 20 comprises a flat insulation base 30 intended to be applied directly against the scalp of the user and a strip 32 intended to be rolled around the curler 12 and the hair of the user.

The flat insulation base 30 has for example an elongated shape along an axis B-B'. The elongated shape is for example polygonal, e.g. rectangular or oval.

Its length, taken along the elongation axis B-B' is greater than its thickness. It is comprised for example between 9 cm and 15 cm.

The flat insulation base 30 defines a central slit 34 for engagement of the hair of the user. The slit 34 advantageously extends along the elongation axis B-B'.

The slit 34 extends through the base 30 and opens in the inner surface and in the outer surface of the insulation sheet 20.

The base 30 also defines lateral edges 37.

The inner waterproof layer 26 only partially covers the outer surface of the insulation layer 24 in the base 30. It ends at a distance from the central slit 34 on one side of the slit 34.

In a variation, the inner waterproof layer 26 does not cover the insulation layer 20 in the flat insulation base 30. The insulation layer 24 then defines the outer surface of the flat insulation base 30.

The outer surface of the flat insulation base 30 is able to be applied on the scalp of the user to shield the scalp against heat and cosmetic product.

The thickness of the insulation layer 24 in the base 30 is advantageously greater than in the strip 32.

The strip 32 protrudes from the flat insulation base 30.

In the example of figures 1 to 3, the strip 32 extends from the lateral edge 36 of the flat insulation base 30 to a free edge 38. In this example, the strip 32 has a trapeze outer contour, with a width larger at the lateral edge 36 of the flat insulation base 30 than at its free edge 38.

The inner waterproof layer 26 substantially covers the chloroprene rubber layer 24 in the rolling strip 32, except in lateral regions 40 located in the vicinity of the free edge 38.

The strip 32 is able to be moved manually by a user between a configuration for introduction of the curler 12, shown for example on figure 4, and a rolled wrapping configuration of the curler 12, shown in figures 5 and 6.

The introduction configuration shown in figure 1 is the rest configuration of the strip 32. In this configuration, the strip 32 extends substantially in the same plane as the flat insulation base 30. The insulation sheet 20 is substantially flat. The free edge 38 of the strip 32 is located away from the base 30. In this configuration, the curler 12 is able to be placed on the inner waterproof layer 26 of the strip 32, as shown in figure 4.

In the rolled wrapping configuration of figure 5, the free edge of the strip 32 has been turned towards the flat insulation base 30 to form a roll 42 surrounding the curler 12 and the hair of the user. The distance between the free edge 38 and the base is smaller than in the flat configuration.

The locking assembly 22 comprises locking members 44 which extend on the lateral edges 36 of the strip 32. The locking members 44 are able to cooperate with the edges of the slit 34 to prevent movement of the strip 32 in the slit 34. In this example, the locking members 44 are formed of linear slashes extending preferably parallel to the longitudinal axis of the slit 34.

The locking members 44 are located apart from one another at increasing distances from the base 30.

Depending on the specific locking member 44 engaged in the slit 34, the diameter of the roll and/or the tension applied on the curler 12 can be adjusted by the user.

A method for forming waves on the hair of a user will be now described.

The method first comprises the provision of an equipment 14 according to the invention.

As shown in figure 4, the outer surface of the base 30 of the insulation sheet 20 is placed in its flat insertion configuration against the scalp of a user. A strand of hair is engaged into the slit 34 from the outer surface of the base 30 to protrude beyond the inner surface of the base 30.

The hair strand is then rolled around a curler 12. The curler 12 carrying the hair strand is placed in contact with the inner surface of the base 30.

A perm cosmetic product is applied on the strand of hair.

The user then moves the free edge 38 of the strip 32 towards the base and rolls the strip 32 around the curler 12. The user then introduces the free edge 38 of the strip 32 into the slit 34 from the inner surface of the base 30 to the outer surface 32. The user then locks the strip 32 in place in a chosen set of locking members 44 to adjust the degree of confinement and the tension applied on the curler 12 carrying the strand of hair.

The user then activates the heating member to heat the outer surface of the curler 12, the strand of hair and the cosmetic product applied on the hair for a given time period.

After the given time period, the free edge 38 of the strip 32 is freed and the curler 12 is removed.

Thanks to the provision of chloroprene rubber, the insulation layer 24 of the base 30 very efficiently protects the scalp of the user from the heat generated by the curler 12. Moreover, the insulation layer 24 located in the strip 32 efficiently confines the heat generated by the curler 12 inside the intermediate space between the curler 12 and the strip 32, to increase the efficiency of the interaction between the cosmetic product and the hair.

The inner waterproof layer 26 is able to be washed easily and efficiently for further reuse of the insulation sheet 20. No rust due to metallic hardware parts is generated with the insulation sheet 20 of the invention which is totally free of metal. It also contributes to the heat insulation with the insulation layer 24.

The outer reinforcing layer 28 increases the durability and the strength of the insulation sheet 20. It can also be decorated in various colors which improves the aesthetic appearance of the equipment 14.

Thanks to the equipment 14 according to the invention, it is therefore easy and convenient to apply perm cosmetic product on the hair of the user in order to develop a permanent wave, with less load of product onto the hair. The wave performance is improved and the product is easy to use.

The equipment 14 is lightweight, which improves the comfort of the user during the perm process.

A second kit 50 according to the invention is disclosed in figures 7 to 12.

The kit 50 differs from the kit 10 in that the strip 32 protrudes directly from the edge of the central slit 34, and not from the lateral edge 36 of the flat insulation base 30.

The strip 32 further comprises, along its free edge 38, a rigid shape 52 for facilitating the insertion of the free edge 38 into the slit 34.

The method of wave formation using the kit 50 is disclosed in figures 9 to 12. As a difference with the first method disclosed in figures 4 to 6, the strand of hair 54 is first rolled around the curler 12 (see figure 9). Then, the curler 12 and the strand of hair 54 rolled around the curler 12 is engaged in the slit 34 from the outer face of the flat insulation base 30 to the inner face of the flat insulation base 30 (see figure 10).

The curler 12 is then placed on the inner face of the strip 32 as shown in figure 1 1 . The strip 32 is wrapped around the curler 12 to place the free edge 38 in contact with the base 30. The free edge 38 is subsequently inserted into the central slit 34, preferably with the help of the rigid shape 52, to lock the strip 32 in its wrapping configuration.

The strand of hair 54, rolled on the curler 12 is then confined, with the cosmetic product, between the roll 42 formed by the rolling strip 32 and the outer surface of the curler 12. An example of a wave performance test using the second kit 50 according to the invention was conducted with a hair reshaping agent of the type indicated in table 1 with a heating process of 15 min at 90°C.

An oxidizer of the type indicated in table 2 was then applied for five minutes.

Table 1 . Perm reducing agent in the test

INGREDIENTS Wt.%

ACRYLATES COPOLYMER 0.0225

FRAGRANCE 0.15

ETHANOLAMINE THIOGLYCOLATE 5.025

SORBITAN OLEATE 0.015

PENTASODIUM PENTETATE 0.16

ETHANOLAMINE 0.18

POLYQUATERNIUM-6 0.08

POLYQUATERNIUM-37 0.375

MINERAL OIL 0.2625

HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.6

OLETH-20 0.6

SODIUM COCOAMPHOPROPIONATE 0.56

PPG-1 TRIDECETH-6 0.045

WATER Qsp. 100

Table. Perm oxidizing agent used in the test

INGREDIENTS Wt.%

FRAGRANCE 0.4

LAUR AMINE OXIDE 0.645

POLYQUATERNIUM-6 0.5

TETRASODIUM ETIDRONATE 0.06

SODIUM SALICYLATE 0.035

PHOSPHORIC ACID 0.255

HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 2.4

TETRASODIUM PYROPHOSPHATE 0.04

OLETH-20 0.8

WATER Qsp. 100 The reducing agent and the oxidizing agent were prepared by agitation of the ingredients at room temperature.

The following results reported in table 3 were obtained, in comparison with the prior art device such as disclosed in JP 2005 348 965.

Table 3: Results of the test

++: Very good performance over the control

+: Good performance over the control

The use of the second kit 50 according to the invention surprisingly improved the general features of the permanent wave which is formed on the hair and makes the wave looks like a digital perm, with a strong curl on the tip of the strands.

Claims

1 . - Equipment (14) for wave formation on the hair of a user comprising an insulation sheet (20), intended to be placed in contact with the hair of the user;

wherein the insulation sheet (20) is flexible to be wrapped around a curler (12), the insulation sheet (20) comprising at least one insulation layer (24) comprising chloroprene rubber.

2. - Equipment (14) according to claim 1 , wherein the thickness of the insulation layer (24) is smaller than 5 mm, preferably smaller than 3 mm and is advantageously comprised between 0.1 mm and 0.5 mm.

3. - Equipment (14) according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the insulation sheet (20) comprises an inner waterproof layer (26) attached on an inner surface of the insulation layer (24).

4. - Equipment (14) according to claim 3, wherein the inner waterproof layer (26) covers only part of the inner surface of the insulation layer (24).

5. Equipment (14) according to any one of claims 3 and 4, wherein the inner waterproof layer (26) is a silicone polymer layer.

6. - Equipment (14) according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising an outer reinforcement layer (28), assembled on the insulation layer (24).

7.- Equipment (14) according to claim 6, wherein the outer reinforcement layer (28) is made of a fabric, advantageously a woven, knitted or nonwoven layer.

8. Equipment (14) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the insulation sheet (20) comprises a main insulating body (30) delimiting a slit (34), and a strip (32), projecting from the main body (30), the strip (32) being able to be rolled around a curler (12).

9. - Equipment (14) according to claim 8, wherein the strip (32) projects from an edge of the main body (30).

10. - Equipment (14) according to claim 8, wherein the strip (32) projects from a side of the slit (34).

1 1 .- Equipment (14) according to any one of claims 8 to 10, wherein the strip (32) is able to be moved between a curler (12) introduction position, in which the strip (32) is apart from the slit (34), and a curler (12) wrapping position, in which the strip (32) is at least partially inserted into the slit (34).

12.- Wave formation kit (10; 50) comprising:

- a curler (12) ;

- an equipment (14) according to any one of the preceding claims.

13. - Kit (10; 50) according to claim 12, wherein the curler (12) comprises a curling body (30) and a heating member (18) received into the curling body (30).

14. - Method for wave formation on the hair of a user comprising the following steps:

- providing a kit (10; 50) according to any one of claims 12 or 13;

- placing a curler (12) and a strand of hair on the insulation sheet (20);

- rolling at least part of the insulation sheet (20) around the curler (12) and the strand of hair to wrap the curler (12) ;

- locking the part of the strip (32) around the curler (12).

15.- Method according to claim 14, wherein the insulation sheet (20) delimits a slit (34), the method comprising the following steps:

- inserting a strand of hair through the slit (34) ;

- placing the curler (12) around the strand of hair ;

- engaging a free edge of the part of the insulation sheet (20) into the slit (34).