WO2015087053A1

WO2015087053A1 - Method of manufacturing a breathable waterproof garment

Info

Publication number: WO2015087053A1
Application number: PCT/GB2014/053608
Authority: WO
Inventors: Robert James GREENACRE
Original assignee: Sealskinz Limited
Priority date: 2013-12-12
Filing date: 2014-12-04
Publication date: 2015-06-18
Also published as: GB201322014D0

Abstract

A method of manufacturing an item of clothing comprising: providing first and second composite fabric panels (250A, 250B), each panel comprising an inner layer (210A, 210B), an outer layer (230A, 230B) and an intermediate layer (220A, 220B) provided in a folded configuration between the inner and outer layers, the intermediate layer (220, 220B) being resistant to penetration by liquid water but permeable to water vapour; and attaching the first panel (250A) to the second panel (250B) to form at least one seam. Methods of manufacturing a roll of stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric/ stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric blank from which the plurality of panels (250A, 250B) may be cut to form the garment are also presented.

Description

METHOD OF MANUFACTURING A BREATHABLE WATERPROOF

GARMENT

DESCRIPTION

The present invention relates to breathable waterproof garments, and particularly but not exclusively to garments worn during outdoor recreation or outdoor sports.

In accordance with a first aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method of manufacturing an item of clothing comprising: providing first and second composite fabric panels, each panel comprising an inner layer, an outer layer and an intermediate layer provided in a folded configuration (e.g. corrugated, niched or puckered) between the inner and outer layers (e.g. formed by bonding the intermediate layer to the inner and outer layers at a plurality of discrete securement locations whilst the inner and outer layers are in an stretched configuration), the intermediate layer being resistant to penetration by liquid water but permeable to water vapour; and attaching the first panel to the second panel to form at least one seam (e.g. at least one seam connection extending along adjacent edges of the first and second panels).

In this way, a method of manufacturing a waterproof breathable (and windproof) garment having a panel-form profile is provided comprising inner and outer water-permeable stretchable layers and an intermediate layer that is waterproof (e.g. resistant to penetration by liquid water under normal conditions during wear) but breathable and allows significant stretching of the inner and outer layers (e.g. by at least 5% in at least one direction, for example by at least 10% in at least one direction, at least 20% in at least one direction or at least 30%) in at least one direction). Advantageously, the method of present invention allows for the manufacture of waterproof breathable garments of increased complexity and having a close-fitting profile extending substantially in three dimensions when in an unworn condition. In one embodiment, the panel-form garment comprises a pair of tubular sleeves (short- sleeved tops (e.g. T-shirts) or long-sleeved tops) or a pair of tubular leg parts (e.g. trousers, shorts or leggings). In another embodiment, the panel-form garment comprises a sleeveless top (e.g. sleeveless vest) or legless trunks.

In one embodiment, the step of attaching the first and second panels to form at least one seam comprises stitching the first and second panels together.

In one embodiment, the method further comprises taping the at least one seam.

In one embodiment, the first panel is configured to provide an area of compression to a wearer's body relative to the second panel when the item of clothing is worn by a wearer. In this way, the panel-form garment may be configured to generate in use compression around muscular areas to aid stimulation.

In one embodiment, the first panel is configured to stretch proportionally further than the second panel in at least one direction when worn by a user.

In one embodiment, the first and second panels provide different levels of stretchability in a predetermined direction of stretch.

In one embodiment, the first and second panels are formed from fabric having different stretch properties (e.g. stretch limits or resistance to stretching).

In one embodiment, each of the first and second panels are configured to stretch proportionally further in a first direction (e.g. along a first axis) than in a second direction (e.g. along a second axis) wherein the first and second panels are orientated in the item of clothing with the first direction of each panel non-aligned.

In one embodiment, the first and second panels are cut from a common configuration of composite fabric (e.g. cut from the same sheet or blank), whereby non-aligned orientation of the first direction of each panel is achieved by cutting the first and second panels at different angles relative to a reference direction.

In one embodiment, the method further comprises forming a water resistant seam between the first and second panels by: exposing adjacent outer edges of the intermediate layers of the first and second panels; and fusing the exposed outer edges of the intermediate layers of the first and second panels together to form a fused connection region. In one embodiment, a reinforcement strip is applied over the exposed adjacent outer edges of the intermediate layers of the first and second panels before or after the step of fusing the exposed outer edges of the intermediate layers. In one embodiment, the reinforcement strip includes an adhesive layer on at least one side thereof (e.g. both sides). In one embodiment, the adhesive layer is heat activated.

In one embodiment, the exposed edges of the intermediate layers of the first and second panels are fused together by welding (e.g. radio frequency, ultrasonic or hot-bar welding).

In one embodiment, the step of attaching the first panel to the second panel further comprises applying a water resistant tape to connect adjacent inner or outer layers of the first and second panels. In the case that the reinforcement strip is applied before or after the fusing step, the adhesive layer on the at least one side of the reinforcement strip may be re- activated during the step of applying the water resistant tape.

In one embodiment, the step of exposing adjacent outer edges of the intermediate layers of the first and second panels comprises separating an outer edge of the inner and/or outer layers bonded to the intermediate layer from the intermediate layer.

In one embodiment, the step of separating the outer edge of the inner and/or outer layers bonded to the intermediate layer comprises applying heat to the outer edge. In this way, an adhesive bond between the outer edge of the inner and/or outer layers and the intermediate layer may be softened. In one embodiment, heat may be applied to the outer edge by applying a heated gas (e.g. steam) to the outer edge.

In one embodiment, the method further comprises covering the fused connection region with a free end of at least one of the inner and outer layers of the first or second panels.

In one embodiment, the method further comprises applying heat to adhere (e.g. by reactivating adhesive already present or after applying new adhesive) the free ends of the at least one of the first and second panels to the fused connection region.

In one embodiment, at least one of the first and second panels is preformed with the outer edges of the inner and/or outer layers unbonded to an outer edge of the intermediate layer to access the edge of the intermediate layer.

In one embodiment, the intermediate layer comprises a hydrophilic polyurethane membrane or microporous hydrophobic polyurethane membrane of types well know in the art

In one embodiment, the intermediate layer comprises a flexible film (e.g. 10-80 microns thick). In one embodiment, the intermediate layer is substantially inelastic.

In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the inner and outer layers is elastic. In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the inner and outer layers is water- permeable.

In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the inner and outer layers is a knitted

(e.g. warp knitted) layer or woven layer.

In accordance with a second aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method of manufacturing a roll of stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric from which a plurality of panels may be cut for forming a garment, the method comprising: providing a supply (e.g. roll) of a first stretchable (textile) fabric; providing a supply (e.g. roll) of an intermediate membrane resistant to penetration by liquid water but permeable to water vapour; providing a supply (e.g. roll) of a second stretchable (textile) fabric; pulling by means of an advancing mechanism the first and second stretchable fabrics in a stretched configuration under tension with the intermediate membrane positioned therebetween; and while the first and second stretchable fabrics are advanced in the stretched configuration under tension forming a composite fabric structure in a stretched configuration by: adhering the first stretchable fabric to a first (e.g. inner or outer) surface of the intermediate membrane at a plurality of discrete securement locations (e.g. to form a first discontinuous pattern of securement locations between the first stretchable fabric and the intermediate membrane to enable folding of the intermediate membrane relative to the first stretchable fabric when the first stretchable fabric is in a contracted configuration); and adhering the second stretchable fabric to a second (e.g. outer or inner) surface of the intermediate membrane opposed to the first surface at a plurality of discrete securement locations (e.g. to form a second discontinuous pattern of securement locations between the second stretchable fabric and the intermediate membrane to enable folding of the intermediate membrane relative to the second stretchable fabric when the second stretchable fabric is in a contracted configuration).

In this way, a method is provided for forming a roll of stretchable breathable (and windproof) waterproof composite fabric from which a plurality of panels may be cut for forming a breathable waterproof panel-form garment that is configured to allow significant stretching of the first and second stretchable fabrics (e.g. by at least 5% in at least one direction, for example by at least 10% in at least one direction, at least 20% in at least one direction or at least 30% in at least one direction). In one embodiment, the panel-form garment comprises a pair of tubular sleeves (short-sleeved tops (e.g. T-shirts) or long- sleeved tops) or a pair of tubular leg parts (e.g. trousers, shorts or leggings). In another embodiment, the panel-form garment comprises a sleeveless top (e.g. sleeveless vest) or legless trunks.

In one embodiment, the first and second stretchable fabrics are stretched longitudinally under tension (e.g. by use of a braking force operative to oppose a force acting to pull fabric from the first and second rolls through the advancing mechanism).

In one embodiment, the first and second stretchable fabrics are stretched laterally under tension (e.g. by passing the first and second stretchable fabrics through a lateral spreader roller).

In one embodiment, the first and second stretchable fabrics are stretched both laterally and longitudinally under tension.

In one embodiment, the first and second stretchable fabrics are stretched proportionally further in one direction (e.g. first axis) than in the other direction (e.g. second axis). In this way, a blank with directional stretch properties may be provided to assist formation of panels with varying stretchability from a single blank.

In one embodiment, the step of adhering at least one of the first and second stretchable fabrics to the intermediate membrane comprises activating adhesive provided to adhere between the first stretchable fabric and the intermediate membrane. In one embodiment, the adhesive is heat activated.

In one embodiment, the adhesive is provided as a first adhesive layer between the first stretchable fabric and the intermediate membrane.

In one embodiment, the adhesive provided between the first stretchable fabric and the intermediate membrane (e.g. first adhesive layer) is formed as a discontinuous pattern of adhesive.

In one embodiment, the adhesive is carried by the intermediate membrane. For example, the first adhesive layer may be applied to the first surface of the intermediate membrane (e.g. before or after forming the roll of intermediate membrane).

In one embodiment, the adhesive is provided as a second adhesive layer between the second fabric and the intermediate membrane.

In one embodiment, the adhesive provided between the second fabric and the intermediate membrane (e.g. second adhesive layer) is formed as a discontinuous pattern of adhesive.

In one embodiment, the adhesive is carried by the intermediate membrane. For example, the second adhesive layer may be applied to the second surface of the intermediate membrane (e.g. before or after forming the roll of intermediate membrane).

In the case of a heat activated adhesive, the advancing mechanism may comprise a heating stage for activating the adhesive. In one embodiment, the heating stage comprises a heated drum.

In one embodiment, the heated drum defines a pair of laterally spaced gripping surfaces for gripping opposed lateral sides (e.g. opposed lateral edges) of the first and second stretchable fabrics to maintain the first and second stretchable fabrics under lateral tension as they pass the heat drum. In one embodiment, the gripping surfaces comprise a plurality of pin-like projections. In one embodiment, the first and second layers of fabric are transferred from the spreader roller to the heated drum by means of opposed pairs oof pinch wheels configured to grip outer edges of the first and second layers of fabric to maintain the lateral stretch prior to locating the outer edges of the first and second layers of fabric onto the gripping surfaces of the heated drum.

In one embodiment, the advancing mechanism comprises a pressure nip roller configured to apply pressure to the composite fabric following exposure to the heating stage (e.g. heated drum).

In one embodiment, the pressure nip roller is configured to urge the composite fabric against the heated drum.

In one embodiment, the method further comprises forming panel outline markings on the composite fabric.

In one embodiment, the method further comprises cutting a plurality of panels from the sheet of composite fabric.

In one embodiment, the intermediate membrane comprises a hydrophilic polyurethane membrane or microporous hydrophobic polyurethane membrane of types well know in the art

In one embodiment, the intermediate membrane comprises a flexible film (e.g. 10-80 microns thick).

In one embodiment, the intermediate membrane is substantially inelastic. In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the first and second stretchable fabrics is elastic.

In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the first and second stretchable fabrics is water-permeable.

In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the first and second stretchable fabrics is a knitted (e.g. warp knitted) fabric or woven fabric.

In accordance with a third aspect of the present invention, there is provided a roll of stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric from which a plurality of panels may be cut for forming a garment, the roll comprising: an inner layer; an outer layer; and an intermediate layer provided in a folded configuration (e.g. corrugated, niched or puckered configuration) between the inner and outer layers, the intermediate layer being resistant to penetration by liquid water but permeable to water vapour; wherein the intermediate layer is attached to both the inner layer and the outer layer by regions of adhesive provided at a plurality of discrete securement locations (e.g. a discontinuous pattern of adhesive).

In one embodiment, the folded configuration of the intermediate layer is configured to allow stretching of the roll of fabric by at least 5% in at least one direction (e.g. by at least 10% in at least one direction, by at least 20% in at least one direction or by at least 30% in at least one direction).

In one embodiment, the roll of fabric is configured to stretch in first and second perpendicular directions.

In one embodiment, the roll of fabric is configured to stretch proportionally further in the first direction than in the second direction.

In one embodiment, the roll of fabric includes a plurality of panel outline markings. In one embodiment, the intermediate layer comprises a hydrophilic polyurethane membrane or microporous hydrophobic polyurethane membrane of types well know in the art.

In one embodiment, the intermediate layer comprises a flexible film (e.g. 10-80 microns thick).

In one embodiment, the intermediate layer is substantially inelastic.

In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the inner and outer layers is elastic.

In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the inner and outer layers is water- permeable. In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the inner and outer layers is a knitted (e.g. warp knitted) layer or woven layer.

In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the inner and outer layers each consist of a single seamless part (e.g. single knitted or woven part).

In accordance with a fourth aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method of manufacturing a stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric blank from which a plurality of panels may be cut for forming a garment, the method comprising: providing a first tubular layer in a stretched configuration over an oversized former configured to stretch the first tubular layer in at least a first direction; and while the first tubular layer is in the stretched configuration adhering the first tubular layer to a first (e.g. inner or outer) surface of an intermediate tubular layer resistant to penetration by liquid water but permeable to water vapour at a plurality of discrete securement locations (e.g. to form a first discontinuous pattern of securement locations between the first tubular layer and the intermediate tubular layer to enable folding of the intermediate tubular layer relative to the first tubular layer when the first tubular layer is in a contracted configuration); and adhering a second tubular layer to a second (e.g. outer or inner) surface of the intermediate tubular layer opposed to the first surface at a plurality of discrete securement locations (e.g. to form a second discontinuous pattern of securement locations between the second tubular layer and the intermediate tubular layer to enable folding of the intermediate tubular layer relative to the second tubular layer when the second tubular layer is in a contracted configuration) while the second tubular layer is in a stretched configuration.

In this way, a method is provided for forming a blank from which a plurality of panels may be cut for forming a breathable (and windproof) waterproof panel-form garment that is configured to allow significant stretching of the first and second tubular layers (e.g. by at least 5% in at least one direction, for example by at least 10% in at least one direction, at least 20%) in at least one direction or at least 30%> in at least one direction). In one embodiment, the panel-form garment comprises a pair of tubular sleeves (short-sleeved tops (e.g. T-shirts) or long-sleeved tops) or a pair of tubular leg parts (e.g. trousers, shorts or leggings). In another embodiment, the panel-form garment comprises a sleeveless top (e.g. sleeveless vest) or legless trunks.

In one embodiment, the intermediate tubular layer is provided over the first tubular layer (e.g. once the first tubular layer is in the stretched configuration). In one embodiment, the step of adhering the second tubular layer to the intermediate tubular layer is carried out subsequently to the step of adhering the first tubular layer to the intermediate tubular layer.

In one embodiment, the step of adhering the second tubular layer to the intermediate tubular layer is carried out while the second tubular layer is stretched over the intermediate tubular layer.

In one embodiment, the step of adhering the second tubular layer to the intermediate tubular layer is carried out while the first and intermediate tubular layers are mounted on the oversized former.

In one embodiment, the step of adhering the intermediate tubular layer to the first tubular layer and adhering the second tubular layer to the intermediate tubular layer are carried out simultaneously whilst the first and second tubular layers and the intermediate tubular layer are stretched over the oversized former.

In one embodiment, the oversized former is further configured to stretch the first tubular layer (e.g. and second tubular layer) in a second direction perpendicular to the first direction.

In one embodiment, the oversized former is configured to stretch the first tubular layer (e.g. and second tubular layer) proportionally further in the first direction than in the second direction. In this way, a blank with directional stretch properties may be provided to assist formation of panels with varying stretchability from a single blank.

In one embodiment, the oversized former is substantially planar.

In one embodiment, the step of adhering the first tubular layer to the first surface of the intermediate tubular layer and/or adhering the second tubular layer to the second surface of the intermediate tubular layer comprises passing the oversized former with the first, intermediate and second tubular layers mounted thereon through a laminator (e.g. roller laminator or other suitable laminator for processing planar panels).

In one embodiment, the method further comprises removing the tubular composite fabric blank from the oversized former. The tubular composite can at this point be wetted and shrunk back with heat; this will retract the first and second tubular layers back to their original size.

In one embodiment, the method further comprises forming panel outline markings on the tubular composite fabric blank. In one embodiment, the method further comprises cutting a plurality of panels from the tubular composite fabric blank (e.g. by cutting around panel markings formed thereon).

In one embodiment, the method further comprises cutting the tubular composite fabric blank (e.g. longitudinally along length of the tubular composite fabric blank) to form a sheet of composite fabric.

In one embodiment, the method further comprises forming panel outline markings on the sheet of composite fabric.

In one embodiment, the intermediate tubular layer comprises a hydrophilic polyurethane membrane or microporous hydrophobic polyurethane membrane of types well know in the art

In one embodiment, the intermediate tubular layer comprises a flexible film (e.g. 10- 80 microns thick).

In one embodiment, the intermediate tubular layer is substantially inelastic.

In one embodiment, the first tubular layer forms an inner layer of the garment and the second tubular layer forms an outer layer of the blank. Advantageously, forming the outer tubular layer onto the oversized former protects the (typically softer) inner tubular layer from damage resulting from contact with the oversized former, whilst also protecting the intermediate tubular layer when pressure is applied during lamination.

In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the first and second tubular layers is elastic.

In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the first and second tubular layers is water-permeable.

In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the first and second tubular layers is a knitted (e.g. warp knitted) tubular layer or woven tubular layer.

In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the first and second tubular layers each consist of a single seamless part (e.g. single knitted or woven part).

In one embodiment, the step of adhering the first tubular layer to the intermediate tubular layer comprises activating adhesive provided to adhere between the first tubular layer and the intermediate tubular layer. In one embodiment, the adhesive is heat activated.

In one embodiment, the adhesive is provided as a first adhesive layer between the first tubular layer and the intermediate tubular layer.

In one embodiment, the adhesive provided between the first tubular layer and the intermediate tubular layer (e.g. first adhesive layer) is formed as a discontinuous pattern of adhesive.

In one embodiment, the adhesive is carried by the intermediate tubular layer. For example, the first adhesive layer may be applied to the first surface of the intermediate tubular layer (e.g. before or after forming the intermediate tubular layer from a sheet of membrane material).

In one embodiment, the step of adhering the second tubular layer to the intermediate tubular layer comprises activating adhesive provided to adhere between the second tubular layer and the intermediate tubular layer. In one embodiment, the adhesive is heat activated.

In one embodiment, the adhesive is provided as a second adhesive layer between the second tubular layer and the intermediate tubular layer.

In one embodiment, the adhesive provided between the second tubular layer and the intermediate tubular layer (e.g. second adhesive layer) is formed as a discontinuous pattern of adhesive.

In one embodiment, the adhesive is carried by the intermediate tubular layer. For example, the second adhesive layer may be applied to the second surface of the intermediate tubular layer (e.g. before or after forming the intermediate tubular layer from a sheet of membrane material).

In accordance with a fifth aspect of the present invention, there is provided a stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric blank from which a plurality of panels may be cut for forming a garment, the blank comprising: an inner tubular layer; an outer tubular layer; and an intermediate tubular layer provided in a folded configuration (e.g. corrugated, niched or puckered configuration) between the inner and outer tubular layers, the intermediate tubular layer being resistant to penetration by liquid water but permeable to water vapour; wherein the intermediate tubular layer is attached to both the inner tubular layer and the outer tubular layer by regions of adhesive provided at a plurality of discrete securement locations (e.g. a discontinuous pattern of adhesive).

In one embodiment, the folded configuration of the intermediate tubular layer is configured to allow stretching of the blank by at least 5% in at least one direction (e.g. by at least 10% in at least one direction, by at least 20% in at least one direction or by at least 30% in at least one direction).

In one embodiment, the blank is configured to stretch in first and second perpendicular directions.

In one embodiment, the blank is configured to stretch proportionally further in the first direction than in the second direction.

In one embodiment, the blank includes a plurality of panel outline markings.

In one embodiment, the intermediate tubular layer comprises a hydrophilic polyurethane membrane or microporous hydrophobic polyurethane membrane of types well know in the art,

In one embodiment, the intermediate tubular layer comprises a flexible film (e.g. 10-

80 microns thick).

In one embodiment, the intermediate tubular layer is substantially inelastic.

In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the inner and outer tubular layers is elastic.

In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the inner and outer tubular layers is water-permeable.

In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the inner and outer tubular layers is a knitted (e.g. warp knitted) tubular layer or woven tubular layer.

In one embodiment, at least one (e.g. both) of the inner and outer tubular layers each consist of a single seamless part (e.g. single knitted or woven part).

Embodiments of the present invention will now be described by way of example with reference to the accompanying drawings in which:

Figure 1A is a schematic illustration of a method and apparatus for manufacturing a composite sheet of fabric in accordance with a first embodiment of the present invention;

Figure IB is a schematic plan view of the apparatus of Figure 1;

Figure 2 is a schematic illustration of components of a novel three-layer tubular fabric blank being sequentially inserted over an oversized former during a manufacturing process in accordance with a second embodiment of the present invention;

Figure 3 is a schematic illustration of the novel three-layer tubular fabric blank formed by the method of Figure 2;

Figure 4 is schematic view of a marked-up composite fabric blank for use in forming panels for a garment; Figure 5 is a schematic illustration of a method of attaching pairs of panels in accordance with a further embodiment of the present invention; and

Figure 6 is a schematic view of a garment constructed in accordance with an embodiment of the present invention.

Figures 1A-1B illustrate a method of manufacturing a roll of stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric 10 from which a plurality of panels may be cut for forming a garment.

As shown, the method comprises providing a roll of a first stretchable fabric 20 on a first feed roller 22, a roll of an intermediate membrane 30 resistant to penetration by liquid water but permeable to water vapour is provided on a second feed roller 32, a roll of a second stretchable fabric 40 on a third feed roller 42, and an advancing mechanism 50.

First and second stretchable fabrics 20, 40 are elastic, stretchable water permeable knitted (e.g. warp knitted) fabrics. Second stretchable fabric 40 is intended in use to provide the innermost layer of the eventual panel-form garment and, since this layer is likely to be contact with a wearer's skin, second stretchable fabric 40 will typically configured to wick moisture away from the wearer (with water vapour being allowed to escape through intermediate membrane 30).

Intermediate membrane 30 is of limited stretchability relative to first and second stretchable fabrics 20, 40 and comprises an inelastic film (typically 30-40 microns thick) resistant to penetration by liquid water but permeable to water vapour perspiration (e.g. a hydrophilic polyurethane membrane or microporous hydrophobic polyurethane membrane of types known in the art). Intermediate membrane 30 includes inner and outer surfaces 34, 36 on which are printed first and second discontinuous patterns (e.g. dots, a network, lines or a combination thereof) of water based co-polyamide heat activatable adhesive, or other types of adhesive known in the art (e.g. powder coat or hot-melt types) 35, 37 respectively.

Advancing mechanism 50 is deployed to advance and laminate the three component layers 20, 30, 40 and comprises a spreader roller 52, pinch wheels 54, a heated drum 56, nip roller 58, collection roller 60, and first and second winders 62, 64.

In a first step of the method, first and second stretchable fabrics 20, 40 are unwound from feed rollers 22, 42 by means of advancing mechanism 50 and pulled under tension with the intermediate membrane 30 positioned therebetween (intermediate membrane 30 is not stretched). A braking mechanism (not shown) associated with each of first and third feed rollers 22, 42 is configured to resist rotation of rollers 22, 42 to provide sufficient tension to cause first and second stretchable fabrics 20, 40 to stretch in a longitudinal direction by at least 30%. Spreader roller 52 is configured to laterally stretch each of first and second fabrics 20, 40 by 20% (i.e. a proportional stretch lower the proportional stretch in the longitudinal direction).

Following stretching of the first and second stretchable fabrics 20, 40, lamination of the three layers occurs in a second step in which first and second discontinuous patterns of heat activatable adhesive 35, 37 are activated by heat from heated drum 56. Heated drum 56 defines a pair of laterally spaced gripping surfaces 56A comprising a plurality of pin-like projections for gripping opposed lateral edges of the first and second stretchable fabrics 20, 40 to maintain, in combination with pinch wheels 54, the first and second stretchable fabrics 20, 40 under lateral tension as they pass heated drum 56. Pressure is then applied by nip roller 58 bearing against heated drum 56 to squeeze the softened adhesive into the knit of the fabric of the first and second stretchable fabrics 20, 40 causing lamination of the three layers.

Once laminated, the composite fabric 10 is advanced to a J-box chamber 66 provided between first and second winders 62, 64 in which first and second stretchable fabric layers 20, 40 are allowed to cool and relax back to the original unstretched length and width thereby causing intermediate membrane 30 to become folded (e.g. corrugated) in both directions before the finished roll of composite fabric 10 is wound onto collection roller 60. First and second stretchable fabric layers 20, 40 can now be stretched back to their pre- laminated stretched configurations without applying any stress to intermediate membrane layer 30.

As an optional step, composite fabric 10 may be wetted and dried (e.g. through a heated oven) to further shrink the first and second stretchable fabric layers 20, 40 if required. This optional step may occur before or after collection of the composite fabric, (e.g. offline).

Figure 2 illustrates a method of manufacturing a novel three-layer waterproof, windproof breathable tubular blank 110 (as depicted in Figure 3) from which a plurality of panels may be cut for forming a garment.

In step one, an elastic, stretchable water permeable knitted outer tubular layer 130 is stretched over an oversized former 120. The outer tubular layer 130 is intended in use to provide the outermost layer of the garment and may be formed from a single continuous (e.g. seamless) warp knitted layer.

In step two, an intermediate tubular layer 140 having approximately the same profile as oversized former 120 is drawn over outer tubular layer 130. Intermediate tubular layer 5 140 is of limited stretchability relative to the outer tubular layer 130 and comprises an inelastic membrane (typically 30-40 microns thick) resistant to penetration by liquid water but permeable to water vapour perspiration (e.g. a hydrophilic polyurethane membrane or microporous hydrophobic polyurethane membrane of types known in the art). Intermediate tubular layer 140 includes inner and outer surfaces 144, 146 on which are printed first and0 second discontinuous patterns (e.g. dots, a network, lines or a combination thereof) of water based co-polyamide heat activatable adhesive, or other types of adhesive known in the art (e.g. powder coat or hot-melt types) 145, 147 respectively. The membrane may be formed from a single membrane sheet with opposed ends thereof welded together (e.g. radio frequency, ultrasonic or hot-bar welded) to form a tube.

5 In step three, a water permeable knitted stretchable inner tubular layer 150 having approximately the same profile as outer tubular layer 130 is stretched over intermediate tubular layer 140. The inner tubular layer 150 is intended in use to provide the innermost layer of the eventual panel-form garment and like the outer tubular layer may be formed from a single continuous warp knitted layer. Since the inner tubular layer 150 is likely to be0 contact with a wearer's skin, this layer will typically configured to wick moisture away from the wearer (with water vapour being allowed to escape through intermediate tubular layer 140).

As illustrated, oversized former 120 is substantially planar (e.g. plate-like) and has a substantially rectangular profile configured to stretch inner and outer tubular layers 130, 1505 by different proportions in a longitudinal and lateral direction (e.g. by 30% in the longitudinal direction and by 20% in the lateral direction).

Once inner tubular layer 150 has been stretched over intermediate tubular layer 140, oversized former 120 with the three tubular layers 130, 140, 150 mounted thereon is passed through a laminating machine (not shown) in which first and second discontinuous patterns0 of heat activatable adhesive 145, 147 are activated by heat. Pressure is then applied by one or more rollers (again not shown) to squeeze the softened adhesive into the knit of the fabric of the outer and inner tubular layers 130, 150. After lamination, the resulting article is removed from oversized former 120. Once cooled, the tubular blank 110 it is then put through a shrinking process in which inner and outer tubular layers 130, 150 are wetted, followed by removal of some of the moisture mechanically and then exposing the article to heat (e.g. in a tumble dryer). After a predetermined period of drying, composite tubular blank 110 is removed from the heat. The shrinking of the outer and inner tubular layers 130, 150 has now resulted in folding of the inelastic intermediate tubular layer 140 and also closed the knit of both the outer and inner tubular layers 130, 150 to their original knitted shapes. Outer and inner tubular layers 130, 150 can now be stretched back to their pre-laminated stretched configurations without applying any stress to intermediate tubular layer 140.

Once formed, a plurality of panels for forming a garment may be cut from tubular blank 110. In one embodiment, panels are cut direct from tubular blank 110. In another embodiment, the tubular blank 110 is first cut longitudinally along its length to form a flat sheet of composite fabric and panels are cut from the flat sheet.

Figure 4 shows a stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric blank 200 including a plurality of outline markings defining panels for forming a garment. Blank 200 may be formed by either of the methods of Figure 1 or Figure 2 and comprises an inner layer 210, an intermediate membrane layer 220 and an outer layer 230.

Inner and outer layers comprise elastic, stretchable water permeable knitted (e.g. warp knitted) fabrics. Intermediate membrane layer 220 comprises an inelastic film (typically 30-40 microns thick) of limited stretchability relative to inner and outer layers 210, 230 and resistant to penetration by liquid water but permeable to water vapour perspiration (e.g. a hydrophilic polyurethane membrane or microporous hydrophobic polyurethane membrane of types known in the art). Intermediate membrane layer 220 is provided in a folded (e.g. corrugated) configuration between inner and outer layers 210, 230 and bonded to inner and outer layers 210, 230 by adhesive forming a discontinuous pattern of securement locations (not shown).

In accordance with the methods of Figure 1 and Figure 2, blank 200 is configured to stretch in first and second perpendicular axes x and y, wherein blank 200 is configured to stretch proportionally further along axis x than along axis y. Advantageously, this directionality allows shaped panels to be cut from the blank 200 in different directions relative to the warp and weft of the fabric layers to select the degree of stretch required for each panel in the final garment. For example, a panel cut with its principle axis of stretch orientated in the y direction will have less stretch than an equivalent panel cut along the x direction and may be used as a compression panel. Alternatively, a panel cut with its principle axis of stretch orientated in the x direction will have more stretch and may be used 5 in regions of the garment where more stretch is required. A panel cut diagonally across the blank will gain an intermediate range of diagonal stretch.

Whilst panels cut from blank 200 may simply be stitched together (e.g. flat locked stitched) in the desired orientation and the stitched seams taped seamed over to strengthen and enhance the water resistant properties of the seam, such stitched seams would only be

10 regarded as showerproof (rather than waterproof) since the intermediate membrane does not form a continuous barrier and liquid water may still be able to pass between adjacent panels.

Figure 5 illustrates a method of attaching first and second panels 250A, 250B cut from blank 200 to form a waterproof seam therebetween.

As illustrated, a first step of the method comprises exposing adjacent outer edges

15 222A, 222B (approximately 5mm wide) of the intermediate layers 220 A, 220B of the first and second panels 250A, 250B. In one embodiment, the step of exposing adjacent outer edges of the intermediate layers of the first and second panels comprises separating outer edges 212A, 212B of inner layers 210A, 210B of the first and second panels 250A, 250B and outer edges 232A, 323B of outer layers 230A, 230B bonded to intermediate layers 220A,

20 220B respectively by applying steam to the outer edges to soften the adhesive bond with the intermediate layers 220A, 220B and allow outer edges 212A, 212B and 232A, 232B to be peeled away from intermediate layers 220A, 220B respectively. In another embodiment, at least one of the first and second panels 250A, 250B is preformed with the outer edges 212A, 212B/232A, 232B unbonded to an outer edge of the intermediate layers 220A, 220B to

25 allow access to outer edges 222A, 222B of intermediate layers 220A, 220B.

Once exposed, outer edges 222A, 222B of intermediate layers 220A, 220B are fused together by a welding step (e.g. by a radio frequency or hot bar welding step in which heat and pressure is applied to the membrane layers) to cause intermediate layers 220A, 220B to fuse together to form a fused connection region 224 and thereby continuous (liquid) water-

30 tight seal. Optionally, a reinforcement strip 260 in the form of a tape membrane with adhesive of both sides can be laid over the top of the exposed intermediate layers to further strengthen the seam when fusing intermediate layers 220 A, 220B together. Once outer edges 222A, 222B are fused, fused connection region 224 is covered with free ends of inner and outer layers 210A, 210B and 230A, 320B (the free ends may be trimmed as shown to minimise overlap if required).

Finally, water resistant tape 270 is applied to connect adjacent inner or outer layers 5 210A, 210B and 230A, 230B of the first and second panels 250A, 250B in a tape seaming step to hold the fabric joint together. Heat generated during the tape seaming step additionally acts to adhere the free ends 212A, 221B and 232A, 232B to fused connection region 224 (e.g. by reactivating adhesive already present or activating newly applied adhesive). In addition, heat generated during the tape seaming step will act to re-activate0 adhesive provided on reinforcement strip 260 to further strengthen the seam.

Figure 6 shows a finished garment 300 (in this example, cycling leggings) constructed from a plurality of panels 250 cut from blank 200 and connected using the method illustrated in Figure 5.

As shown, panels 250 can be cut directionally to generate compression (e.g. around 5 muscles to aid stimulation) and enhanced stretch where needed in the finished garment. In this example, inner leg panels 250D, 250E, 250F and 250G are designed to generate muscular compression and are cut with their principle axis of stretch orientated substantially in the y direction to provide limited stretch compared with panels cut with their principles axis in the x direction. As shown, outer leg panels 250H, 2501 are cut with their principle0 axis of stretch orientated substantially between the x and y direction extremes to provide an intermediate range of stretch. By controlling the direction of cut, performance of the garment may be carefully controlled to provide enhanced, waterproof breathable sportswear.

Claims

Claims:

1. A method of manufacturing an item of clothing comprising:

providing first and second composite fabric panels, each panel comprising an inner layer, an outer layer and an intermediate layer provided in a folded configuration between the inner and outer layers, the intermediate layer being resistant to penetration by liquid water but permeable to water vapour; and

attaching the first panel to the second panel to form at least one seam.

2. A method according to claim 1, wherein the first panel is configured to provide an area of compression to a wearer's body relative to the second panel when the item of clothing is worn by a wearer.

3. A method according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the first panel is configured to stretch proportionally further than the second panel in at least one direction when worn by a user.

4. A method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the first and second panels provide different levels of stretchability in a predetermined direction of stretch.

5. A method according to claim 4, wherein the first and second panels are formed from fabric having different stretch properties.

6. A method according to claim 4 or claim 5, wherein each of the first and second panels are configured to stretch proportionally further in a first direction than in a second direction wherein the first and second panels are orientated in the item of clothing with the first direction of each panel non-aligned.

7. A method according to claim 6, wherein the first and second panels are cut from a common configuration of composite fabric, whereby non-aligned orientation of the first direction of each panel is achieved by cutting the first and second panels at different angles relative to a reference direction.

8. A method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the method further comprises forming a water resistant seam between the first and second panels by:

exposing adjacent outer edges of the intermediate layers of the first and second panels;

5 and

fusing the exposed outer edges of the intermediate layers of the first and second panels together to form a fused connection region.

9. A method according to claim 8, wherein the step of exposing adjacent outer edges of 10 the intermediate layers of the first and second panels comprises separating an outer edge of the inner and/or outer layers bonded to the intermediate layer from the intermediate layer.

10. A method according to claim 9, wherein the step of separating the outer edge of the inner and/or outer layers bonded to the intermediate layer from the intermediate layer

15 comprises applying heat to the outer edge.

11. A method according to claim 10, wherein heat is applied to the outer edge by applying steam to the outer edge.

20 12. A method according to any of claims 8-11, further comprising covering the fused connection region with a free end of at least one of the inner and outer layers of the first or second panels.

13. A method according to claim 12, further comprising applying heat to adhere the free 25 ends of the at least one of the first and second panels to the fused connection region.

14. A method according to claim 8, wherein at least one of the first and second panels is preformed with the outer edges of the inner and/or outer layers unbonded to an outer edge of the intermediate layer to access the edge of the intermediate layer.

30

15. A method of manufacturing a roll of stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric from which a plurality of panels may be cut for forming a garment, the method comprising:

providing a supply of a first stretchable fabric;

providing a supply of an intermediate membrane resistant to penetration by liquid water but permeable to water vapour;

5 providing a supply of a second stretchable fabric;

pulling by means of an advancing mechanism the first and second stretchable fabrics in a stretched configuration under tension with the intermediate membrane positioned therebetween; and

while the first and second stretchable fabrics are advanced in the stretched 10 configuration under tension forming a composite fabric structure in a stretched configuration by:

adhering the first stretchable fabric to a first surface of the intermediate membrane at a plurality of discrete securement locations; and

adhering the second stretchable fabric to a second surface of the intermediate 15 membrane opposed to the first surface at a plurality of discrete securement locations.

16. A method according to claim 15, wherein the first and second stretchable fabrics are stretched longitudinally under tension.

20 17. A method according to claim 15 or claim 16, wherein the first and second stretchable fabrics are stretched laterally under tension.

18. A method according to claim 17, wherein the first and second stretchable fabrics are stretched both laterally and longitudinally under tension and wherein the first and second

25 stretchable fabrics are stretched proportionally further in one direction than in the other direction.

19. A method according to any of claims 15-18, wherein the step of adhering at least one of the first and second stretchable fabrics to the intermediate membrane comprises activating

30 a heat activated adhesive provided to adhere between the first stretchable fabric and the intermediate membrane.

20. A method according to claim 19, wherein the advancing mechanism comprises a heated drum for activating the adhesive.

21. A method according to claim 20, wherein the heated drum defines a pair of laterally spaced gripping surfaces for gripping opposed lateral sides of the first and second stretchable fabrics to maintain the first and second stretchable fabrics under lateral tension as they pass the heated drum.

22. A method according to claim 20 or claim 21, wherein the advancing mechanism comprises a pressure nip roller configured to apply pressure to the composite fabric following exposure to the heated drum.

23. A method according to any of claims 15-22, further comprising forming panel outline markings on the composite fabric.

24. A method according to any of claims 15-23, further comprising cutting a plurality of panels from the sheet of composite fabric.

25. A roll of stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric from which a plurality of panels may be cut for forming a garment, the roll comprising:

an inner layer;

an outer layer; and

an intermediate layer provided in a folded configuration between the inner and outer layers, the intermediate layer being resistant to penetration by liquid water but permeable to water vapour;

wherein the intermediate layer is attached to both the inner layer and the outer layer by regions of adhesive provided at a plurality of discrete securement locations.

26. A roll of stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric according to claim 25, wherein the roll of fabric is configured to stretch in first and second perpendicular directions.

27. A roll of stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric according to claim 26, wherein the roll of fabric is configured to stretch proportionally further in the first direction than in the second direction.

28. A roll of stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric according to any of claims 25-27, wherein the roll of fabric includes a plurality of panel outline markings.

29. A method of manufacturing a stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric blank from which a plurality of panels may be cut for forming a garment, the method comprising:

providing a first tubular layer in a stretched configuration over an oversized former configured to stretch the first tubular layer in at least a first direction; and

while the first tubular layer is in the stretched configuration adhering the first tubular layer to a first surface of an intermediate tubular layer resistant to penetration by liquid water but permeable to water vapour at a plurality of discrete securement locations; and

adhering a second tubular layer to a second surface of the intermediate tubular layer opposed to the first surface at a plurality of discrete securement locations while the second tubular layer is in a stretched configuration.

30. A method according to claim 29, wherein the step of adhering the intermediate tubular layer to the first tubular layer and adhering the second tubular layer to the intermediate tubular layer are carried out simultaneously whilst the first and second tubular layers and the intermediate tubular layer are stretched over the oversized former.

31. A method according to claim 29 or claim 30, wherein the oversized former is further configured to stretch the first tubular layer in a second direction perpendicular to the first direction.

32. A method according to claim 31, wherein the oversized former is configured to stretch the first tubular layer further in the first direction than in the second direction.

33. A method according to any of claims 29-32, wherein the oversized former is substantially planar.

34. A method according to any of claims 29-33, wherein the step of adhering the first tubular layer to the first surface of the intermediate tubular layer and/or adhering the second tubular layer to the second surface of the intermediate tubular layer comprises passing the

5 oversized former with the first, intermediate and second tubular layers mounted thereon through a laminator.

35. A method according to any of claims 29-34, further comprising forming panel outline markings on the composite fabric blank.

10

36. A method according to any of claims 29-35, further comprising cutting a plurality of panels from the tubular composite fabric blank.

37. A method according to any of claims 29-34, further comprising cutting the tubular 15 composite fabric blank to form a sheet of composite fabric.

38. A method according to claim 37, further comprising forming panel outline markings on the sheet of composite fabric.

20 39. A method according to claim 37 or claim 38, further comprising cutting a plurality of panels from the sheet of composite fabric.

40. A stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric blank from which a plurality of panels may be cut for forming a garment, the blank comprising:

25 an inner tubular layer;

an outer tubular layer; and

an intermediate tubular layer provided in a folded configuration between the inner and outer tubular layers, the intermediate tubular layer being resistant to penetration by liquid water but permeable to water vapour;

30 wherein the intermediate tubular layer is attached to both the inner tubular layer and the outer tubular layer by regions of adhesive provided at a plurality of discrete securement locations.

41. A stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric blank according to claim 40, wherein the blank is configured to stretch in first and second perpendicular directions.

42. A stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric blank according to claim 41, wherein the blank is configured to stretch proportionally further in the first direction than in the second direction.

43. A stretchable breathable waterproof composite fabric blank according to any of claims 40-42, wherein the blank includes a plurality of panel outline markings.