WO2015086005A1 - Composition cosmétique contenant une combinaison d'oligopeptides et de céramides - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique contenant une combinaison d'oligopeptides et de céramides Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015086005A1
WO2015086005A1 PCT/DE2014/200606 DE2014200606W WO2015086005A1 WO 2015086005 A1 WO2015086005 A1 WO 2015086005A1 DE 2014200606 W DE2014200606 W DE 2014200606W WO 2015086005 A1 WO2015086005 A1 WO 2015086005A1
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Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
ceramide
total amount
glu
weight
Prior art date
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PCT/DE2014/200606
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Volker Scheunemann
Original Assignee
Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2015086005A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015086005A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the technical field of hair cleansing and hair care.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising at least one ceramide in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, of at least one specific oligopeptide in a total amount of from 0.000001 to 1 , 0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and at least one surfactant selected from the group of (i) anionic surfactants; (ii) nonionic surfactants; (iii) cationic surfactants; (iv) amphoteric surfactants; as well as their mixtures.
  • the present invention relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for the cleaning and / or care of skin and hair.
  • the present invention relates to a method for cleaning and / or care of skin and hair, wherein a cosmetic composition according to the invention relates to the
  • Composition improved combability and disentanglement, and improved grip and shine occur.
  • Cosmetic compositions in the form of hair treatment agents must have a good cleaning action to reliably remove contaminants from the hair and scalp. Furthermore, the hair treatment compositions, especially the ingredients contained therein, should not cause unwanted deposits on the hair, as this hair properties, such as combability and the handle, are adversely affected.
  • Hair care products in the form of hair cleansers additionally added care products and conditioners with the longest possible effect, in order to avoid excessive stress on the hair.
  • care products and conditioners affect the natural structure and properties of the hair.
  • the wet and dry combability of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected from increased split ends.
  • the combability and entanglement as well as the hair grip and the gloss should be improved after use.
  • Another object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic compositions which have high stability even over long periods of storage.
  • Cosmetic compositions according to the invention possible. Finally, the addition of the combination of ceramides and specific oligopeptides does not lead to unfavorable interactions with other ingredients, so that the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have a high storage stability.
  • the present invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • nonionic surfactants (iii) cationic surfactants; (iv) amphoteric surfactants; as well as their mixtures.
  • the parenthetical hydrogen atom of the amino group, as well as the parenthetical group of the acid function means that the respective groups may be present as such (then an oligopeptide having the relevant number of amino acids as in the formula (I ) or that the amino acid sequence is present in an oligopeptide which comprises further amino acids (then the formula (Ia), (Ib) and (Ic)) given below - depending on where the further (n ) Amino acid (s) is bound are the parenthetical components of the above Formula replaced by the other amino acid residue (s).
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention surprisingly have improved hair conditioning, in particular improved combability and improved feel and gloss, due to the use of the combination of ceramides and specific oligopeptides.
  • the use of the combination of ceramides with specific oligopeptides does not result in a reduction in efficacy
  • ceramides and specific oligopeptides can be incorporated into generally customary formulations without significantly influencing the stability, in particular the storage stability, and the cleaning and care performance of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
  • combing according to the invention is meant both the combability of the wet fiber and the combability of the dry fiber.
  • tactility of a fiber collective is understood as the handle in the context of the present invention, with the person skilled in the field sensing and evaluating the parameters of fullness and suppleness of the collective.
  • amphoteric surfactants in the context of the present invention means surface-active compounds which are capable of forming internal salts.
  • oligopeptide in the context of the present invention is understood as meaning chemical compounds which, through peptide bonds, form acid amide-like condensation products of amino acids
  • Oligopeptides is preferably at least 3 and a maximum of 25 amino acids.
  • esterquats in the context of the present invention means substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Hydrocarbon radicals having 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon radicals may be saturated but also monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.
  • fatty acids is understood to mean aliphatic monocarboxylic acids with an unbranched carbon chain which
  • Hydrocarbon radicals having 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon radicals can be either saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated.
  • composition refers in the present case - unless otherwise stated - to the
  • the ceramide (a) is selected from the group of (i) ceramide I; (ii) ceramide I I; (iii) ceramide II I; (iv) ceramide H IB; (v) ceramide IV; (vi) ceramide V; (vii) ceramide VI; and mixtures thereof, in particular ceramide II, ceramide I II and ceramide HIB.
  • Particularly good results with regard to improving the combability, the entangleability, the feel and the gloss of the hair are achieved when ceramide II, ceramide II and ceramide HIB in the cosmetic according to the invention
  • compositions are used.
  • the at least one ceramide (a) may be present in a total amount of from 0.0002 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0008 to 0.5% by weight .-%, more preferably from 0.002 to 0.1 wt .-%, even more preferably from 0.004 to 0.05 wt .-%, in particular from 0.006 to 0.02 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition to be included.
  • the use of the ceramide in the above amounts results in a positive influence on hair properties, such as combability, entanglement, hand and shine.
  • the use of the abovementioned amounts of ceramide avoids a negative influence on further ingredients, the cleaning and / or care performance and the stability of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • the at least one oligopeptide (b) comprises 5 to 15 amino acids, preferably 6 to 13 amino acids, preferably 7 to 12 amino acids, in particular 8, 9 or 10 amino acids, and that the at least one oligopeptide a molecular weight of from 650 to 3000 Da, preferably from 750 to 2500 Da, preferably from 850 to 2000 Da, in particular from 1000 to 1600 Da.
  • oligopeptides are used according to the invention, which do not consist solely of three glutamic acids, but have further, bound to this sequence amino acids.
  • the oligopeptides of the formula (I) preferably contain no amino acids selected from the group of (i) methionine; (ii) cysteine and / or cystine; (iii) serine; (iv) threonine; and (v) their combinations.
  • the oligopeptides of the formula (I) are amino acids selected from the group of (i) tyrosine; (ii) leucine and / or isoleucine; (iii) arginine; (iv) valine; and (v) their combinations.
  • the cosmetic composition contains at least one oligopeptide (b) of the formula (Ia) which contains the amino acids
  • amino group is not protonated and / or protonated and the carboxy groups can not be deprotonated and / or deprotonated
  • the cosmetic composition comprises at least one oligopeptide (b) of the formula (Ib) which contains the
  • amino group is not protonated and / or protonated and the carboxy groups can not be deprotonated and / or deprotonated
  • amino group is not protonated and / or protonated and the carboxy groups can not be deprotonated and / or deprotonated
  • the cosmetic composition contains the at least one oligopeptide (b) in a total amount of 0.00001 to 0.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00002 to 0.1 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00005 to 0.05 wt%, more preferably from 0.00008 to 0.04 wt%, even more preferably from 0.0002 to 0.03 wt%, especially from 0.0006 to 0 , 02 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • oligopeptides used in the context of the present invention which satisfy the abovementioned conditions, can advantageously be obtained from keratinic materials. It is inventively preferred if these oligopeptides in high proportions, based on the total keratinic oligopeptide content of the cosmetic
  • compositions are used.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1 wt .-%, preferably at least 0.5 wt .-%, preferably at least 1 wt .-%, more preferably at least 2.5 wt .-%, even more preferred at least 5% by weight, in particular at least 10% by weight, of all the keratinic peptides contained in the cosmetic composition have the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1 wt .-%, preferably at least 0.5 wt .-%, preferably at least 1 wt .-%, more preferably at least 2.5 wt .-%, even further preferably at least 5% by weight, in particular at least 10% by weight, of all in the cosmetic
  • Composition contained keratinic peptides having the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1 wt .-%, preferably at least 0.5 wt .-%, preferably at least 1 wt .-%, more preferably at least 2.5 wt .-%, still more preferably at least 5% by weight, in particular at least 10% by weight, of all in the cosmetic
  • Composition containing keratinic peptides have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1 wt .-%, preferably at least 0.5 wt .-%, preferably at least 1 wt .-%, more preferably at least 2.5 wt .-%, even further preferably at least 5% by weight, in particular at least 10% by weight, of all in the cosmetic
  • Composition contained keratinic peptides having the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile.
  • Very particularly preferred cosmetic composition according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1 wt .-%, preferably at least 0.5 wt .-%, preferably at least 1 wt .-%, more preferably at least 2.5 wt .-%, still more preferred at least 5% by weight, in particular at least 10% by weight, of all in the cosmetic
  • Composition containing keratinic peptides have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu- Ile-Arg.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1 wt .-%, preferably at least 0.5 wt .-%, preferably at least 1 wt .-%, more preferably at least 2.5 wt .-%, still more preferably at least 5% by weight, and in particular at least 10% by weight, of all the keratinic peptides contained in the cosmetic composition have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1 wt .-%, preferably at least 0.5 wt .-%, preferably at least 1 wt .-%, more preferably at least 2.5 wt .-%, even further preferably at least 5% by weight, in particular at least 10% by weight, of all in the cosmetic
  • Composition containing keratinic peptides have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu- Ile-Arg-Val-Leu.
  • Cosmetic compositions according to the invention contained oligopeptides derived from keratinic materials.
  • oligopeptides derived from keratinic origin of course, other peptides and / or protein hydrolysates can be used, for example from other native sources.
  • the additional use of is preferred
  • Weight ratio of the total amount of the at least one ceramide (a) to the total amount of the at least one oligopeptide (b) from 40: 1 to 1:20, preferably from 35: 1 to 1: 1 5, preferably from 30: 1 to 1:10, more preferably from 25: 1 to 1: 5, even more preferably from 20: 1 to 1: 3, in particular from 15: 1 to 1: 2.
  • the use of the at least one ceramide (a) and the at least one specific oligopeptide (b) in these weight ratios results in an excellent cleaning and / or care performance. In particular, results in a
  • the care performance of the cosmetic compositions of the invention can be further improved by the use of additional conditioning ingredients.
  • the anionic surfactant is preferably selected from the group of
  • alkyl sulfates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, especially sodium lauryl sulfate;
  • alkyl ether sulfates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 1 to 14 oxyethyl groups, especially sodium lauryl ether sulfate;
  • alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 0 to 10 oxyethyl groups; such as
  • compositions are achieved when the anionic surfactant is selected from the group of (i) alkyl ether sulfates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 1 to 14
  • Oxyethyl groups especially sodium lauryl ether sulfate; (ii) alkyl sulfates of 8 to 30
  • Carbon atoms in the alkyl chain especially sodium lauryl sulfate; and (iii) their
  • Oligopeptid (b) no unfavorable interactions with other ingredients, so that the cosmetic compositions of the invention have a high care performance and a long shelf life.
  • the anionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.05 to 45 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 25 wt .-%, more preferably from 1, 0 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 2.0 to 15 wt .-%, based on the
  • nonionic surfactant is selected from the group of (i) addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched alcohols containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to carboxylic acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
  • alkoxylated carboxylic acid alkyl esters having 6 to 22 carbon atoms in the acyl group, 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 14 oxyethyl groups;
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have a particularly gentle cleaning performance when the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group of (i) addition products of 5 to 60 mol, in particular 20 to 40 mol, ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil; (ii) polyethoxylated carboxylic acid esters having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 50; (iii) ethoxylated
  • Glycerylcarboxylic esters having a degree of ethoxylation of 2 to 20, in particular PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate; (iv) alkyl oligoglucosides having 8 to 16 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, especially C 1-10 alkyl polyglycosides; and (v) their mixtures.
  • the use of the abovementioned nonionic surfactants in combination with at least one ceramide (a) and the at least one specific oligopeptide (b) leads to an outstanding cleaning performance. Furthermore, when these surfactants are used in combination with the at least one ceramide (a) and the at least one specific oligopeptide (b), no unfavorable results
  • the nonionic surfactant may be present in a total amount of from 0.05 to 45% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 8.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, are used.
  • the above amounts of nonionic surfactant is a particularly gentle
  • the cationic surfactant may be selected from the group of
  • radicals R 5 and R 6 each independently of one another, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30
  • Carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion
  • R 7 , R 8 , R 9 and R 10 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups, and
  • A is a physiologically acceptable anion, in particular cetrimonium chloride and / or behentrimonium chloride; such as
  • the conditioning effect of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be further increased if the cationic surfactant is selected from the group of (i) Esterquats, in particular of the formula (IV)
  • radicals R 11 and R 14 are an acyl radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 26, preferably 12 to 20, more preferably 14 to 18,
  • radicals R 12 and R 13 each independently of one another, represent a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms which has at least one
  • Hydroxyl group may contain, stand, and
  • A is a physiologically acceptable anion
  • radicals R 7 , R 8 , R 9 are each, independently of one another, hydrogen, a methyl group
  • the radical R 0 is a saturated and unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20, preferably 12, 14, 16 or 18, in particular 16 or 18 carbon atoms which may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxy groups , and
  • A is a physiologically acceptable anion; such as
  • quaternary ammonium compounds for example ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of carboxylic acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of carboxylic acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of carboxylic acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 stearamidopropyl commercially represent.
  • the cationic surfactant is used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.03 to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 6.0% by weight. %, more preferably from 0.08 to 4.5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is used.
  • the cationic surfactant is a particularly good
  • amphoteric surfactant may be selected from the group of
  • N-alkylpropionic acids (vi) N-alkylaminobutyric acids;
  • alkylamidoalkylbetaines each having 4 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain
  • amphoteric surfactant is selected from the group of (i) alkylamphoacetates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, in particular disodium cocodiamphoacetate; (ii) N-alkylaminopropionates, in particular N-cocoalkylaminopropionate; (iii) cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate; (iv) N-alkyl sarcosines, especially C 12 -C 18 acyl sarcosine; (v) alkylbetaines; (vi) alkylamido betaines; and (iv) their mixtures.
  • alkylamphoacetates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group in particular disodium cocodiamphoacetate
  • N-alkylaminopropionates in particular N-cocoalkylaminopropionate
  • cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate cocoacylaminoethy
  • amphoteric surfactants in combination with the at least one ceramide (a) and the at least one specific oligopeptide (b) also leads to an improved cleaning performance. Furthermore, when using these surfactants in combination with the at least one ceramide (a) and the at least one specific oligopeptide (b) no unfavorable interactions with other ingredients, so that the cosmetic compositions of the invention have a high cleaning and / or care performance and storage stability.
  • amphoteric surfactant may be present in a total amount of from 0.2 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 15% by weight. %, more preferably from 1, 5 to 12 wt .-%, in particular from 2.0 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is used.
  • amphoteric surfactant is a particularly good cleaning performance of the cosmetic compositions of the invention
  • a particularly high cleaning performance and a particularly high foaming power is obtained according to the invention if the at least one surfactant (c) is used in a total amount of from 0.2 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 45% by weight, preferably from 0 , 8 to 40 wt .-%, more preferably from 1, 0 to 35 wt .-%, even more preferably from 3.0 to 30 wt .-%, in particular of 5.0 to 25 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Weight ratio of the total amount of (a) to the total amount of (c) from 1: 500 to 1: 4,500, preferably from 1: 700 to 1: 4,000, preferably from 1: 1 .000 to 1: 3,500, more preferably from 1: 1 .200 to 1: 3,000, even more preferably from 1: 1 .400 to 1: 2,500, in particular from 1: 1 .600 to 1: 2,100.
  • weight ratios on the one hand, a good cleaning performance of the cosmetic compositions of the invention and, on the other hand, a particularly good conditioning of the hair, in particular an improvement of
  • the cosmetic composition a
  • Weight ratio of the total amount of (b) to the total amount of (c) from 1: 300 to 1: 22,500, preferably from 1: 500 to 1: 22,000, preferably from 1: 800 to 1: 21,500, more preferably from 1: 1,000 to 1: 21,000, even more preferably from 1: 1,200 to 1: 20,500, especially from 1: 1,500 to 1: 20,000.
  • a weight ratio of the total amount of (a) to the total amount of (b) to the total amount of (c) is from 1: 0.002: 300 to 1:10: 4,000, preferably from 1 : 0.005: 500 to 1: 8: 3.500, preferably from 1: 0.008: 800 to 1: 6: 3,000, more preferably from 1: 0.01: 1 .000 to 1: 4: 2.500, even more preferably from 1: 0.02: 1 .300 to 1: 3: 2.300, in particular from 1: 0.05: 1 .600 to 1: 2: 2.100.
  • the use of these weight ratios results in an excellent
  • amino group is not protonated and / or protonated and the carboxy groups can not be deprotonated and / or deprotonated
  • Disodium cocoamphodiacetate and / or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate in a total amount of from 2 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • amino group can not be protonated and / or protonated and the carboxy groups can not be deprotonated and / or deprotonated
  • At least one surfactant selected from cis-io-alkylpolyglycoside and / or
  • Disodium cocoamphodiacetate in a total amount of 2 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, is used.
  • amino group is not protonated and / or protonated and the carboxy groups can not be deprotonated and / or deprotonated
  • Disodium cocoamphodiacetate and / or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate in a total amount of from 2 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • amino group can not be protonated and / or protonated and the carboxy groups can not be deprotonated and / or deprotonated
  • Disodium cocoamphodiacetate in a total amount of 2 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,
  • amino group can not be protonated and / or protonated and the carboxy groups can not be deprotonated and / or deprotonated in a total amount of 0.0008 to 0.003 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and
  • Disodium cocoamphodiacetate and / or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate in a total amount of from 2 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • amino group can not be protonated and / or protonated and the carboxy groups can not be deprotonated and / or deprotonated
  • Disodium cocoamphodiacetate in a total amount of 2 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,
  • the abovementioned six particularly preferred embodiments which contain a combination of at least one specific ceramide (a), at least one extremely specific oligopeptide (b) and specific surfactants (c) in specific amounts and weight ratios lead to an excellent cleaning and / or care performance.
  • the combability, the entangleability, the handle and the gloss are significantly improved.
  • these combinations do not lead to a reduction in the storage stability of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
  • these special combinations also have no unfavorable interactions with other ingredients and / or care agents, so that the nourishing effect can be further improved by the addition of other conditioning ingredients.
  • compositions contain a number of other active ingredients and ingredients. Preference is given to adding further active ingredients to the cosmetic compositions which have additional cosmetic care properties in order to condition the hair during the treatment
  • Composition further contains at least one hair and / or skin conditioning agent, wherein the active ingredient is selected from the group of oil components, cationic polymers, plant extracts and / or humectants.
  • Oil components suitable according to the invention may be selected from mineral, natural or synthetic oil components such as petrolatum, paraffins, silicones, alcohols, fatty acid esters, natural oils of plant and animal origin and mixtures thereof, and are used in a total amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition used.
  • mineral, natural or synthetic oil components such as petrolatum, paraffins, silicones, alcohols, fatty acid esters, natural oils of plant and animal origin and mixtures thereof, and are used in a total amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition used
  • silicones is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean various structures of organosilicon compounds which are present in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 2% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition may be included.
  • the silicones may preferably be selected from at least one member of the group of organosilicon compounds which is formed from:
  • polyalkyl siloxanes polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
  • grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone-containing organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone onto which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends , such as the commercial product Abil B 8832 from Degussa marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone;
  • the conditioning agent is a
  • conditioning silicone having a viscosity of from 20,000 to 120,000 mPa ⁇ s, preferably from 40,000 to 80,000 mPa ⁇ s.
  • the conditioning silicone is particularly preferably selected from dimethicones, amodimethicones or dimethiconols.
  • fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having C 6 -C 30, preferably C 10 -C 22 and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22, carbon atoms.
  • Decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol can be used for the purposes of the invention, for example.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids having C6-C30 carbon atoms, which usually can be assumed to be derived from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction.
  • fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols resulting fatty acid esters, and thus a mixture of represent different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol®, eg Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, eg Lanette® O or Lorol®, eg Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, eg Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24 for sale.
  • wool wax alcohols such as are commercially available under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan®, can also be used.
  • Fatty alcohols suitable according to the invention are present in the cosmetic compositions in a total amount of from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight the cosmetic composition used.
  • Isoparaffins carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax and
  • Microsell be used from PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example: liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of between 12 and 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24
  • Carbon atoms such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether , iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether.
  • ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C 6 -C 30 -fatty acids with C 2 -C 30 -fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol,
  • Lauryl alcohol isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol,
  • isopropyl myristate (Rilanil® IPM), isononanoic acid alkyl ester (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate / caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol)
  • Dicarboxylic esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
  • Fatty acid partial glycerides in particular monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides.
  • the partial glycerides preferably have the formula (I I)
  • R 4 , R 5 and R 6 are hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these Groups for an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen.
  • the sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
  • R 4 is an acyl radical and R 5 and R 6 are hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, Linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • the oil component used is ester oils, in particular esters of C 12-18 fatty acids with C 12-18 fatty alcohols.
  • Natural oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil,
  • avocado oil apricot kernel oil, rose hip kernel oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, almond oil, olive oil, peach kernel oil, shea butter, sunflower oil and grapeseed oil are particularly preferred.
  • oils components are in the cosmetic compositions of the invention in a total amount of 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition used.
  • Cationic polymers can likewise be used according to the invention as conditioning components.
  • suitable cationic polymers are polymers which have "temporarily cationic” or “permanently cationic” groups in the main and / or side chain.
  • “permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group independently of the pH of the agent These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups contain quaternary ammonium groups.
  • such polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group via a Ci-4-hydrocarbon group a polymer backbone composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives have been found to be particularly suitable.
  • R 7 -H or -CH 3
  • p is a natural number
  • X- is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as
  • Copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (I I I) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers. Within the scope of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:
  • R 7 is a methyl group
  • R 8 , R 9 and R 10 are methyl groups
  • 0 has the value 2.
  • physiologically compatible counterions X- come, for example, halide ions
  • Sulfate ions, phosphate ions, Methosulfationen and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions into consideration.
  • Suitable homopolymers or copolymers which are derived from the formula (II) according to the invention are commercially available, for example, under the trade names Salcare® SC 95, Salcare® SC 96 and Salcare® SC 92.
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives such as under the trade names Celquat ® and polymer
  • JR® are commercially available.
  • Polymer JR® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
  • hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives for example those under the trade name
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • cationic guar derivatives in particular those sold under the trade names cos media ® guar and Jaguar ® products,
  • Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethyl silylamodimethicon), Dow Corning ® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80th )
  • Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Polyquaternium-27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.
  • Gafquat®ASCP 101 1, Gafquat®HS 1 10, Luviquat® 8155 and Luviquat® MS 370 are available.
  • cationic polymers are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers, These polymers usually contain an amino group which is present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic Preferred are, for example, chitosan and its derivatives, as described, for example, in US Pat
  • Hydagen® CMF Hydagen® HCMF
  • Kytamer® PC Chitolam® NB / 1 01
  • Chitosans are deacetylated chitins, which are commercially available in different degrees of deacetylation and different degrees of degradation (molecular weights).
  • the skin conditioning cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one cationic polymer which is selected from the group of cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic guar derivatives and / or Polyquaternium-7 (Merquat 550), Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-10 and / or Polyquaternium-67 (SoftCaKED polymers).
  • the cationic polymer (s) is (are) in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, based on the
  • Total weight of the cosmetic composition included. Total amounts of 0.2 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, are particularly preferred.
  • the plant extracts suitable according to the invention are extracts which can be prepared from all parts of a plant.
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and
  • Propylene glycol both as the sole extractant as well as in admixture with water, is preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • Compositions humectants or penetrants and / or swelling agents to add. These excipients provide better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber.
  • excipients include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol.
  • monoethyl ethers carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols, such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.
  • Particularly suitable according to the invention is glycerol.
  • the humectants are in the cosmetic compositions of the invention in a total amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight the cosmetic composition used.
  • compositions according to the invention are suitable as cosmetically.
  • compositions for cleaning and care of the hair Compositions for cleaning and care of the hair.
  • Compositions may be in the form of hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, hair dye shampoos, or combinations thereof.
  • inventive cosmetic may be in the form of hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, hair dye shampoos, or combinations thereof.
  • compositions both as a leave-on, so as on the hair until the next hair wash remaining products, as well as rinse-off, so a few seconds to a few hours after the application again rinsed products, be provided.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention have excellent fragrance
  • the combination of ceramides, specific oligopeptides, the at least one leads to an improvement of hair properties, such as combability, entanglement, feel and shine.
  • the use of this combination does not result in one
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be used.
  • the cosmetic compositions for stabilization may contain an inorganic thickener.
  • Inorganic thickeners can be used in the context of the present invention phyllosilicates (polymeric, crystalline sodium disilicates). Particularly stable foams having excellent foaming properties are obtained when magnesium aluminum silicates from the group of bentonites, in particular smectites, such as
  • Montmorillonite or hectorite which may optionally also be suitably modified.
  • synthetic phyllosilicates such as that sold by the company Süd Chemie under the trade name Optigel
  • Magnesium layer silicate can be used.
  • the effect of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be increased by emulsifiers.
  • emulsifiers are, for example
  • alkyl (oligo) glucosides for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and of animal tissue
  • zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol.
  • suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH),
  • Linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts,
  • the ethoxylated glyceryl oleates and glyceryl cocoates are preferred, and PEG-7 is particularly preferred Glyceryl Cocoate, as it is commercially available for example under the name Tegosoft ® GC or Cetiol ® HE.
  • the emulsifiers are preferably used in a total amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 8 to 18 can be used.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers having an H LB value of 10 to 15 may be preferred according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may additionally contain protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof for further support of their skin and hair-care action.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures which are obtained by acid, basic or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • protein hydrolysates of plant and animal origin can be used.
  • Cationized protein hydrolysates can be used according to the invention, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or from biotechnology
  • Protein hydrolysates can stem.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or by a combination of the two types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preferred are such cationic
  • Protein hydrolysates the protein content of which has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5,000 daltons. Furthermore, under cationic
  • Quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1 101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein,
  • Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium
  • the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives are preferably used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • a total amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is very particularly preferred.
  • vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, Vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the vitamin A component is preferably used in a total amount of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
  • Vitamin B3 Under this designation are often the compounds nicotinic acid and
  • Nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide).
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in a total amount of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the
  • Total weight of the cosmetic composition is used.
  • panthenol • Vitamin Bs (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group the panthenol is preferred. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention
  • panthenol in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol as well as cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and the cationic disclosed in WO 92/13829 A1
  • Panthenol The said compounds of the vitamin Bs type are preferably used in a total amount of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A total amount of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, is particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin Be pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid).
  • the usual total amount of vitamin C is 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred.
  • the use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are used according to the invention preferably in a total amount of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential carboxylic acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, meanwhile, the trivial name biotin has prevailed.
  • Biotin is preferably used in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention there are no fundamental restrictions.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention are characterized in addition to the excellent cleansing, nourishing and foaming properties continue by their application and production-friendly rheology and viscosity.
  • they have a viscosity in the range from 5,000 mPas to 15,000 mPas, preferably from 6,000 mPas to 12,000 mPas, in particular from 7,500 mPas to 10,500 mPas (measured in each case with a Haake viscometer Viscotester VT550, 20 °, measuring device cylinder MK-2, Schwer york 8 / sec.).
  • a second subject of the present invention is a use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for the cleansing and / or care of skin and hair.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention for the cleansing and / or care of skin and hair.
  • a third object of the present invention is a method for cleaning and / or care of the skin and hair, wherein a cosmetic according to the invention
  • Composition is applied to the optionally previously washed and / or wet hair and optionally rinsed off after a certain period of time, wherein after the application of the cosmetic composition improved combing and entanglement and improved feel and shine occur.
  • the method for cleaning and / or care of skin and hair mutatis mutandis applies to the cosmetic compositions of the invention.
  • the oligopeptide of the formula (I) used in the following examples is preferably a compound of the formula (Ia) and / or (Ib) and / or (Ic).
  • Oligopeptide of 0.001 0.003 0.0008 0.0015 0.002 0.01 0.008 0.006 0.015 Formula (1)
  • Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
  • the washing raw materials and the bulk of the water are introduced, heated to 70 ° C to 80 ° C and stirred until homogeneous. Subsequently, if appropriate, the thickeners preswollen in warm water and polymeric care substances are added. After all ingredients have been added to the cosmetic composition, gasification may optionally be performed with cooling and stirring to 25 ° C. If no gassing is provided, the mixture is cooled to 25 ° C with stirring.
  • the formulations I to IX according to the invention result in cosmetic compositions which have high foaming power and excellent cleaning performance.
  • the use of a combination of at least one specific ceramide, at least one specific oligopeptide and at least one surfactant also leads to an improvement in hair properties, such as combability, entangleability, the handle and the gloss, and has no negative interactions with other ingredients.
  • the hairs cleaned with the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have improved dry and wet combability, improved entanglement, improved feel and improved gloss.
  • compositions of the invention have a high

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des compositions cosmétiques contenant : a) au moins un céramide dans une quantité totale de 0,0001 à 3,0 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique, b) au moins un oligopeptide de la formule (I), qui présente au moins la séquence d'acides aminés Glu-Glu-GLu, le groupe amino pouvant se présenter sous la forme non protonée et/ou protonée et les groupes carboxy sous la forme non déprotonée et/ou déprotonée, dans une quantité totale de 0,000001 à 1,0 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique, et (c) au moins un tensio-actif choisi dans le groupe des i) tensio-actifs anioniques, ii) tensio-actifs non ioniques; iii) tensio-actifs cationiques; iv) tensio-actifs amphotères, et leurs mélanges, qui présentent une excellente action de nettoyage, et conduisent à une meilleure aptitude au peignage et au démêlage ainsi qu'à un toucher et un brillant améliorés.
PCT/DE2014/200606 2013-12-13 2014-10-29 Composition cosmétique contenant une combinaison d'oligopeptides et de céramides WO2015086005A1 (fr)

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JP2020500860A (ja) 2016-11-23 2020-01-16 ゴジョ・インダストリーズ・インコーポレイテッド プロバイオティック／プレバイオティックな有効成分を含む消毒薬組成物

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