WO2014191115A1 - Coloration de fibres kératiniques au moyen de composés de métaux nobles - Google Patents

Coloration de fibres kératiniques au moyen de composés de métaux nobles Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014191115A1
WO2014191115A1 PCT/EP2014/052013 EP2014052013W WO2014191115A1 WO 2014191115 A1 WO2014191115 A1 WO 2014191115A1 EP 2014052013 W EP2014052013 W EP 2014052013W WO 2014191115 A1 WO2014191115 A1 WO 2014191115A1
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Prior art keywords
agent
ammonia
monoethanolamine
fibers
silver
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PCT/EP2014/052013
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Antje Gebert
Astrid Kroos
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2014191115A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014191115A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/20—Halogens; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/20—Halogens; Compounds thereof
    • A61K8/21—Fluorides; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/23—Sulfur; Selenium; Tellurium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/362—Polycarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/58—Metal complex; Coordination compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to agents for dyeing keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, which contain in an aqueous cosmetic carrier at least one noble metal compound and at least one alkalizing agent.
  • the present invention furthermore relates to a process in which these agents are applied to keratinic fibers, if appropriate after the action of a pretreatment agent.
  • Direct dyes are applied under mild conditions. Their disadvantage, however, is that the dyes often have only insufficient fastness properties, especially in hair washing, but also against other external influences, such as sunlight or reactive environmental chemicals, such as swimming pool water. Although intensive dyeings having good fastness properties can be obtained with oxidation dyes, some oxidation dye precursors or certain mixtures of oxidation dye precursors may have a sensitizing effect in persons with sensitive skin.
  • Oxidation dye precursors include so-called developers (usually p-phenylenediamine derivatives or p-aminophenol derivatives) and couplers (such as m-substituted phenylenediamines, m-aminophenols, etc.), which within the hair fiber under the influence of the oxidizing agent together the actual dyes form.
  • developers usually p-phenylenediamine derivatives or p-aminophenol derivatives
  • couplers such as m-substituted phenylenediamines, m-aminophenols, etc.
  • some of the common oxidation dye precursors, including p-phenylenediamine is thought to be irritating or irritating for some consumers and thereby trigger sensitization or even allergic reactions.
  • EP 1 789 014 A1 describes novel dyeing systems based on specific C, H-acidic compounds and carbonyl compounds.
  • intensive dyeings can be produced even without the use of aniline derivatives (such as p-phenylenediamine, p-aminophenol).
  • aniline derivatives such as p-phenylenediamine, p-aminophenol.
  • the dyeings produced in this way have only a low oxidation stability.
  • An application together with hydrogen peroxide or other oxidizing agents, in which the keratin fibers are dyed and lightened at the same time, is therefore not possible.
  • FR 2 981 569 A1 describes a process for dyeing keratin fibers in which o-diphenols, cyclodextrins, metal salts, carbonates and other alkalizing agents are used come. This process also dispenses with aromatic amino compounds.
  • WO 2012/159919 A1 describes a hair dye consisting of several components, wherein the first component contains a composition with a metal salt from the group iron, copper, zinc and aluminum and the second component contains a fruit extract.
  • the first component contains a composition with a metal salt from the group iron, copper, zinc and aluminum
  • the second component contains a fruit extract.
  • a metal salt from the 4th period of the Periodic Table is used (manganese, iron, copper or zinc).
  • the transition metal salts from the 4th period are generally distinguished by the fact that they assume different oxidation states (valences) and - under the influence of oxidants or reducing agents - can easily switch between these different valency states.
  • iron (II) salts are light reductants
  • iron (III) salts are light oxidants.
  • valences oxidation states
  • iron (III) salts are light oxidants.
  • Associated with the change in the valency of the metal salts from this group is the release or uptake of electrons - this radical reactions can be initiated, and the metal salts of the 4th period can act catalytically in certain decomposition reactions.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to provide new colorants which dye the keratinic fibers in intensive and long-lasting colorations with excellent fastness properties, but without reference to substances from the class of aromatic amines (of the type of p-phenylenediamines, p-aminophenols, o Phenylendiamine, o-aminophenols or corresponding analogous heterocyclic diamino compounds) have to resort.
  • aromatic amines of the type of p-phenylenediamines, p-aminophenols, o Phenylendiamine, o-aminophenols or corresponding analogous heterocyclic diamino compounds.
  • These colorants should in particular be compatible with hydrogen peroxide and be applied together with hydrogen peroxide on the hair, so that a simultaneous lightening and coloring of the keratin fibers is possible.
  • a dyeing system which fulfills these properties without at the same time having one or more of the disadvantages described above is hitherto unknown from the prior art.
  • agents which contain at least one precious metal compound selected from the salts and / or complex compounds of gold, silver, platinum, palladium, iridium, ruthenium and / or rhodium, dye keratinic fibers in intense shades when combined be applied with at least one alkalizing agent on the keratin fibers.
  • the dyeings obtained in this way are characterized by excellent lightfastness and outstanding oxidation stability and oxidant compatibility. When used in combination with hydrogen peroxide, simultaneous staining and lightening is possible.
  • a first aspect of the present invention is an agent for coloring keratinic fibers contained in an aqueous cosmetic carrier
  • Keratinic fibers, keratin-containing fibers or keratin fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.
  • compositions according to the invention are primarily suitable for whitening keratin fibers, in principle there is nothing to prevent their use in other fields as well.
  • coloring of keratin fibers encompasses any form of color change of the fibers, including, in particular, color changes encompassed by the terms tinting, bleaching, matting, oxidative dyeing, semi-permanent dyeing, permanent dyeing and temporary dyeing which have a lighter color result compared to the starting color, such as coloring bleaching or bleaching, which are nuanced by adding color-giving compounds.
  • compositions according to the invention contain the noble metal compound (s) (a) and the alkalizing agent (s) (b) in a cosmetic carrier.
  • This cosmetic carrier is preferably aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • such carriers are for example creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
  • an aqueous carrier contains at least 40% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water.
  • aqueous-alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 4 -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • the compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as 4-methoxybutanol, ethyl diglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally comprise a non-aqueous solvent, preferred agents according to the invention containing the solvent in a concentration of 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 1 to 20% by weight, very particularly preferably in a concentration of 2 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the agent.
  • the agents for dyeing keratinic fibers contain at least one noble metal compound selected from the salts and / or complex compounds of gold, silver, platinum, palladium, iridium, ruthenium and / or rhodium.
  • a complex of a noble metal compound is understood as meaning the compound formed from a positively charged noble metal cation as the central particle and one or more ligands.
  • the ligands may be neutral and / or anionic ligands.
  • suitable anionic inorganic ligands are F " (fluorido), CI “ (chlorido), Br “ (bromido), J “ (iodido), OH “ (oxido), NO 2 " (nitrito), SCN “ (thiocyanido) NH 3 (ammine) or H 2 O (aqua) can be mentioned for neutral inorganic ligands
  • organic ligands are ethylenediamine (s), nitriloacetic acid (NTA), ethylenediamine tetraacetate (EDTA), oxalate (ox) or acetylacetonate (acac).
  • the cationic charges of the noble metal center and the sum of all negative charges of the ligand surrounding the noble metal cation add up to zero.
  • a preferred embodiment is therefore an agent for coloring keratinic fibers, contained in an aqueous cosmetic carrier
  • At least one noble metal compound selected from the salts of gold, silver, platinum, palladium, iridium, ruthenium and / or rhodium and
  • noble metal compound (a) a compound from the group consisting of tetrachloroauric (III) acid (H [AuCl 4 ]), sodium gold chloride (Na [AuCl 4 ]), potassium gold chloride (K.
  • a particularly intense color result and a natural nuance loss could be achieved if the agents one or more salts from the group silver acetate (Ag (OAc)), silver lactate ((H 3 CCH (OH) COO) Ag), silver benzoate (C 6 H 5 C0 2 Ag), silver methanesulfonate (H 3 CSO 3 Ag), silver citrate (AgO 2 CCH 2 C (OH) (CO 2 Ag) CH 2 CO 2 2 Ag), silver p-toluenesulfonate (CH 3 C 6 H 4 S0 3 Ag), silver succinate (AgOOCCH 2 CH 2 COOAg), silver malate (AgOOCCH 2 CH (OH) COOAg), rhodium (II) acetate, palladium (II) acetate (Pd (OAc) 2 ) and / or palladium (II) propionate ((C 2 H 5 C0 2 ) 2 Pd).
  • silver acetate Ag (OAc)
  • silver lactate (
  • a very particularly preferred agent for dyeing keratinic fibers contains as noble metal compound (a) a compound from the group silver acetate (Ag (OAc)), silver lactate ((H 3 CCH (OH) COO) Ag) Silver benzoate (C 6 H 5 CO 2 Ag), silver methanesulfonate (H 3 CSO 3 Ag), silver citrate (AgO 2 CCH 2 C (OH) (CO 2 Ag) CH 2 CO 2 2 Ag), silver p-toluenesulfonate (CH 3 C 6 H 4 S0 3 Ag), silver succinate (AgOOCCH 2 CH 2 COOAg), silver malate (AgOOCCH 2 CH (OH) COOAg), rhodium (II) acetate, palladium (II) acetate (Pd (OAc) 2 ) and or palladium (II) propionate ((C 2 H 5 C0 2 ) 2 Pd).
  • noble metal compound a compound from the group silver acetate (Ag (
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains the noble metal compound (s) (a) in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 0.75% by weight. %, more preferably from 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.01 to 0.25 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition contains.
  • the basis of calculation for all quantities is the total weight of the product.
  • the total weight of the agent according to the invention is understood to mean the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, i. the total weight of the agent which is ready for use and applied to the head of the consumer.
  • the colorants according to the invention comprise at least one alkalizing agent (b).
  • the alkalizing agent (b) may be selected from the group of inorganic and / or organic alkalizing agents.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains as alkalizing agent (b) at least one inorganic alkalizing agent selected from ammonia, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium hydroxide, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, calcium hydroxide, calcium carbonate, calcium hydrogen carbonate, Magnesium hydroxide, Magenium- carbonate and / or magnesium hydrogen carbonate contains.
  • alkalizing agent b
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains ammonia as alkalizing agent (b).
  • the agents contain as alkalizing agent (b) at least one particular organic alkalizing agent.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains as alkalizing agent (b) at least one organic alkalizing agent from the group 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutane.
  • alkalizing agent (b) By using basic amino acids as alkalizing agent (b), very intense color results with good fastness properties can also be achieved.
  • the dyeings obtained with noble metal compounds (a) and basic amino acids are distinguished in particular by good light fastness.
  • the use of the amino acids arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine is in this context of very particular advantage.
  • An inventively likewise particularly preferred agent for dyeing keratin fibers is therefore further characterized in that it contains as alkalizing agent (b) at least one basic amino acid from the group arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine.
  • An agent which is likewise preferred according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it comprises at least one combination of two different alkalizing agents (b) selected from ammonia sodium hydroxide, ammonia sodium carbonate, ammonia / sodium bicarbonate, ammonia sodium silicate, ammonia / sodium metasilicate, ammonia / potassium hydroxide , Ammonia / potassium carbonate, ammonia, potassium bicarbonate, ammonia / calcium hydroxide, ammonia / calcium carbonate, ammonia, calcium bicarbonate, ammonia / magnesium hydroxide, ammonia / gastricium carbonate, ammonia / magnesium hydrogencarbonate, ammonia monoethanolamine, ammonia 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, ammonia / Arginine, ammonia / lysine, ammonia / ornithine, ammonia / histidine, monoethanolamine / sodium hydroxide, monoethanolamine / sodium carbonate, monoethanolamine /
  • agents which contain a combination of two different alkalizing agents (b), wherein ammonia is used in combination with another organic alkalizing agent are Explicitly very particularly preferred.
  • At least one noble metal compound selected from the salts and / or complex compounds of gold, silver, platinum, palladium, iridium, ruthenium and / or rhodium,
  • At least one noble metal compound selected from the salts and / or complex compounds of gold, silver, platinum, palladium, iridium, ruthenium and / or rhodium,
  • Another explicitly very particularly preferred means for dyeing keratinic fibers (a) at least one noble metal compound selected from the salts and / or complex compounds of gold, silver, platinum, palladium, iridium, ruthenium and / or rhodium,
  • At least one noble metal compound selected from the salts and / or complex compounds of gold, silver, platinum, palladium, iridium, ruthenium and / or rhodium,
  • At least one noble metal compound selected from the salts and / or complex compounds of gold, silver, platinum, palladium, iridium, ruthenium and / or rhodium,
  • At least one noble metal compound selected from the salts and / or complex compounds of gold, silver, platinum, palladium, iridium, ruthenium and / or rhodium,
  • the pH of the ready-to-use agent is between 7 and 12.5, in particular between 8 and 11.5.
  • the pH values are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
  • An agent which is likewise preferred according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it has a pH of from 7.0 to 12.5, preferably from 8.0 to 11.5, more preferably from 8.5 to 10.5.
  • the agent may as well be preferred for the agent to have a pH of 7.0 to 8.0. Agents with this pH are characterized by a particularly high skin tolerance.
  • At least one oxidizing agent may be additionally added to the colorants of the invention.
  • a common oxidant usually hydrogen peroxide - either alone or in combination with other oxidizing agents such as persulfates - chosen.
  • the erfindungsgze touch noble metal compounds (a) have been found to be compatible with hydrogen peroxide, so that in this way a simultaneous lightening and coloring is possible without an uncontrolled degradation of the hydrogen peroxide takes place. Furthermore the dyeings obtained with the noble metal compounds (a) have proved to be particularly stable towards oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, ie the dyeings are not oxidatively degraded by the presence of the oxidizing agent and suffer no loss of intensity due to this. For this reason, it is most preferred to use the colorants of the invention together with an oxidizing agent.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it additionally contains hydrogen peroxide as the oxidizing agent (c).
  • the hydrogen peroxide contained in the oxidative color-changing agents is preferably hydrogen peroxide itself and / or one of its solid addition products of organic or inorganic compounds.
  • hydrogen peroxide itself is used as the aqueous solution.
  • concentration of a hydrogen peroxide solution in the composition according to the invention is determined on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired effect; preferably 6 to 12 wt .-% solutions are used in water.
  • preferred application-ready means of the first subject of the invention are characterized in that, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 2.5 to 10 Wt .-% and in particular 3 to 6 wt .-% hydrogen peroxide, each based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Another preferred means for coloring keratinic fibers as noble metal compound gold (III) bromide (AuBr 3 )
  • Another preferred agent for dyeing keratinic fibers contains (a) as noble metal compound silver acetate (Ag (OAc)) (b) at least one alkalizing agent and
  • the composition may further contain at least one peroxo salt.
  • Suitable peroxo salts are inorganic peroxo compounds, preferably selected from the group formed from ammonium peroxodisulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal peroxomonosulfates, alkali metal peroxodiphosphates and alkaline earth metal peroxides.
  • peroxodisulfates in particular ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate.
  • the persulfates are each in an amount of 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 2.5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 3 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, contained in the agent according to the invention.
  • the colorant may contain further bleach boosters to enhance the bleaching effect, such as tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N-nonanoylsuccinimide ( NOSI), n-nonanoyl or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or i-NOBS), phthalic anhydride, triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5-diacetoxy-2,5-dihydrofuran, and also carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts, in particular ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate .
  • TAED tetraacetylethylenediamine
  • DADHT 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1
  • Sodium bicarbonate, disodium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, dipotassium carbonate and calcium carbonate, and nitrogen-containing heterocyclic bleach boosters such as 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, and N-methyl-3,4- dihydroisoquinolinium p-toluene sulfonate.
  • At least one SiO 2 compound such as silicic acid or silicates, in particular water glasses, may additionally be added to the composition according to the invention.
  • the Si0 2 compounds may be preferred according to the invention, in amounts of 0.05 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, more preferably in amounts of 0.15 wt .-% to 10 wt .-% and most preferably in amounts of from 0.2% by weight to 5% by weight, based in each case on the anhydrous composition according to the invention.
  • the color intensity achievable with the agents according to the invention can be improved if the agents additionally contain at least one reducing agent, since the presence of the reducing agent controls the paint lift of the noble metal compound (a) onto or into the Keratin fiber reinforced.
  • an agent for dyeing keratinic fibers according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it additionally contains at least one reducing agent (d) from the group of sodium sulfite, cysteine, ascorbic acid, thioglycolic acid (mercaptoacetic acid) and / or thiolactic acid (2-sulfanylpropionic acid) ,
  • the one or more reducing agents (d) in the composition according to the invention in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.00 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2.50 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.25 to 2 , 00 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.50 to 1, 50 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the agent - be included.
  • the object of the present invention was to find a new dyeing system, which dyes keratinic fibers in intense shades and thereby waives oxidation dye precursors of the type of p-phenylenediamines or p-aminophenols.
  • the agents according to the invention are therefore free of oxidation dye precursors.
  • the compositions according to the invention can nevertheless contain one or more oxidation dye precursors of the invention Developer and / or coupler type included.
  • Suitable oxidation dye precursors of the developer type may be selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl ) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) propan-2-o
  • Suitable coupler type oxidation dye precursors can be selected from the group formed from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino 4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2.6 Bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2 -
  • the dyeing nuances may additionally contain at least one or more direct sweeteners.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one further hair dye from the group of substantive dyes.
  • the direct dye (s) may be selected from the nonionic, cationic and / or anionic dyes.
  • nonionic substantive direct dyes from the group HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC HC Red 7, HC Red 10, HC Red 1, HC Red 1, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1 1, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- ( 2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl ) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureamino-2-nitrobenz
  • one or more compounds may be included under the international trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57 : Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Bromophenol Blue, and Tetrabromophenol Blue.
  • Suitable cationic substantive dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99 , Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, cationic anthraquinone dyes such as HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B) as well as direct dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.
  • the cationic substantive dyes sold under the trademark Arianor are also suitable cationic substantive dyes in accordance with the invention.
  • the additionally contained oxidation dye precursors and / or the substantive dyes are preferably used in each case in an amount of 0.0001 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 3.5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the agents according to the invention can be formulated as single-component agents or as multicomponent agents, such as, for example, two-component agents or three-component agents, and used accordingly.
  • the agent can be formulated in the form of a one-component agent.
  • the agent according to the invention is packaged in a container (for example in a tube, a crucible, a bottle, a can, etc.) which contains the noble metal compound (s) (a) and the alkalizing agent (s) (b). contains.
  • the removed from the container means the ready-to-use funds.
  • the formulation in the form of a one-component agent is also advantageous and therefore preferred for reasons of application comfort.
  • the compositions of the invention are usually provided in the form of a two-component agent.
  • at least one oxidizing agent usually hydrogen peroxide
  • oxidizing agents in particular hydrogen peroxide
  • the alkalizing agent and the oxidizing agent separately from each other.
  • a preferred agent is characterized in that it is prepared immediately before use by mixing at least two preparations, wherein the at least two preparations are provided in at least two separately manufactured containers, and wherein Container a dyeing preparation (I) containing in a cosmetic carrier
  • the ready-dyeing is prepared.
  • Another preferred agent is characterized in that it is prepared immediately before use by mixing at least two preparations, wherein the at least two preparations are provided in at least two separate prefabricated containers, and wherein a container comprises a preparation (I) containing in a cosmetic carrier
  • At least one noble metal compound selected from the salts of gold, silver, platinum, palladium, iridium, ruthenium and / or rhodium and
  • the basis of calculation for all quantities shall be the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, i. the total weight of the agent which is ready for use is applied to the head of the consumer and obtained shortly before use by mixing the two or more preparations (ie the preparation (I) and the preparation (II) and optionally further preparations) becomes.
  • compositions according to the invention for dyeing keratinic fibers may further comprise additional active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives in order to improve the dyeing performance and to adjust further desired properties of the compositions.
  • the ready-to-use colorants are provided as a liquid preparation and the agents therefore optionally additionally added a further surfactant, said surfactants depending on the field of application as surfactants or as emulsifiers: They are preferably anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers selected.
  • Agents suitable according to the invention are characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one anionic surfactant.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
  • the anionic surfactants are used in proportions of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the ready-to-use agent.
  • Agents suitable according to the invention are characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one zwitterionic surfactant.
  • Preferred zwitterionic surfactants are betaines, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Agents suitable according to the invention are characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one amphoteric surfactant.
  • Preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids.
  • Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-Kokosalkylaminopropionat, as Kokosacylaminoethylaminopropionat and Ci 2 -Ci 8 -Acylsarcosin.
  • the agents contain other, nonionic surfactants.
  • Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides and alkylene oxide adducts of fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants are used in proportions of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of ready-to-use agents.
  • the agents contain at least one thickener.
  • thickeners are anionic, synthetic polymers; cationic synthetic polymers; naturally occurring thickeners such as nonionic guar gums, scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose , Amylopectin and dextrins, as well as cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses; nonionic, fully synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone; and inorganic thickening agents, in particular phyllosilicates such
  • the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example nonionic polymers such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidinone, vinylpyrrolidinone, vinyl acetate copolymers, polyethylene glycols and polysiloxanes; additional silicones, such as volatile or non-volatile, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked polyalkylsiloxanes (such as dimethicones or methicone), polyaryl siloxanes and / or polyalkylaryl siloxanes, in particular polysiloxanes having organofunctional groups, such as substituted or unsubstituted amines (amodimethicones), carboxyl, alkoxy and / or hydroxyl groups (dimethicone copolyols), linear polysiloxane (A) polyoxyalkylene (B), Block copolymers, for example
  • the choice of these other substances will be made by those skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the agents. With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.
  • the additional active ingredients and auxiliaries are preferably used in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.0005 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the application mixture.
  • the agents for dyeing keratinic fibers which in a suitable cosmetic carrier (a) at least one noble metal compound selected from the salts and / or complex compounds of gold, silver, platinum, palladium, iridium, ruthenium and / or rhodium and (B) contain at least one alkalizing agent, are ideal for use in corresponding processes for dyeing keratinic fibers.
  • a further subject of the present invention is therefore a process for dyeing keratinic fibers, comprising the following steps in the order given:
  • the pretreatment agent (A) is an agent which contains at least one reducing agent.
  • a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the pretreatment agent (A) contains at least one reducing agent.
  • the reducing agent a compound of the group of sodium sulfite, cysteine, ascorbic acid, thioglycolic acid (mercaptoacetic acid) and / or thiolactic acid (2-sulfanylpropionic acid) can be selected.
  • a pretreatment agent (A) to the fibers which contains at least one reducing agent from the group of sodium sulfite, cysteine, ascorbic acid, thioglycolic acid (mercaptoacetic acid) and / or thiolactic acid (2-sulfanylpropionic acid),
  • keratinic fibers - unless hydrogen peroxide is simultaneously present - can be dyed with particularly little damage.
  • the pH of the agent is adjusted to a range of about 6-8, the means are also characterized by a special mildness and skin compatibility.
  • the agents can also be applied to the keratin fibers in the form of a "leave-on" procedure, i.e. the agents can be applied to the keratin fibers without having to be washed off again.
  • a further very particularly preferred embodiment is therefore also a process for dyeing keratinic fibers, comprising the following steps in the order given:
  • a further very particularly preferred embodiment is therefore also a process for dyeing keratinic fibers, comprising the following steps in the order given:
  • composition (D) according to the invention used as part of a "leave-on" process is made up, for example, as a hair gel, hair oil or hair tonic
  • the consumer can dye the keratin fibers in a particularly comfortable manner, since he is the same - a normalgen hair gel, hair oil or hair tonic
  • it does not have to rinse the fibers, so the gradual, slow-growing, inconspicuous coloration can be achieved for consumers who desire a slow-setting color result. and who perceive a striking color change as unpleasant, a corresponding method is therefore particularly suitable.
  • this method offers particular advantages, as they can dye the hair in this way "incidentally" without having to submit to the usual hair dyeing procedures, which further activities and greater mobility normally not allowed.
  • One strand of hair (type: Kerling Euronaturhaar white) was treated for 10 minutes with a pretreatment containing thioglycolic acid (mercaptoacetic acid).
  • the pretreatment agent was allowed to act for 10 minutes and then rinsed off. Immediately following, the tress was washed with a solution of 200 mg tetrachloroauric (III) acid (H [AuCl 4 ]) (hydrate) in 200 ml water (dest.), which was brought to a pH of 7 by addition of calcium hydroxide, 8 was stained for a period of 6 days.
  • tetrachloroauric (III) acid H [AuCl 4 ]
  • the strand of hair was dyed dark-reddish brown.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des agents de coloration de fibres kératiniques qui contiennent dans un véhicule cosmétique aqueux (a) au moins un composé de métal noble, choisi parmi des sels et/ou des complexes d'or, argent, platine, palladium, iridium, ruthénium et/ou rhodium, et (b) au moins un agent alcalinisant.
PCT/EP2014/052013 2013-05-27 2014-02-03 Coloration de fibres kératiniques au moyen de composés de métaux nobles WO2014191115A1 (fr)

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DE102013209790.5A DE102013209790A1 (de) 2013-05-27 2013-05-27 Färbung von keratinischen Fasern mit Edelmetallverbindungen

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3266502A1 (fr) 2016-07-05 2018-01-10 Unilever N.V. Traitement de fibres kératiniques

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001078665A1 (fr) * 2000-04-12 2001-10-25 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Colorants contenant des composes de ruthenium
WO2005079735A1 (fr) * 2004-02-13 2005-09-01 The Procter & Gamble Company Composes de teinture de keratine, compositions de teinture de keratine contenant lesdits composes et utilisation de ces composes
DE102004044231A1 (de) * 2004-09-14 2006-03-16 Henkel Kgaa Mittel zum Färben von keratinhaltigen Fasern
US20060248663A1 (en) * 2005-05-03 2006-11-09 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions comprising discrete particles aggregates and discrete particle agglomerates for application to keratin fibers
WO2012159919A1 (fr) 2011-05-25 2012-11-29 Unilever Plc Produit pour coloration des cheveux comprenant des ions métalliques et un composant tiré de groseille rouge ou de cassis.
FR2981569A1 (fr) 2011-10-21 2013-04-26 Oreal Procede de coloration capillaire a partir d'une composition comprenant au moins un orthodiphenol, une cyclodextrine, un sel metallique, et du (bi)carbonate

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001078665A1 (fr) * 2000-04-12 2001-10-25 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Colorants contenant des composes de ruthenium
WO2005079735A1 (fr) * 2004-02-13 2005-09-01 The Procter & Gamble Company Composes de teinture de keratine, compositions de teinture de keratine contenant lesdits composes et utilisation de ces composes
DE102004044231A1 (de) * 2004-09-14 2006-03-16 Henkel Kgaa Mittel zum Färben von keratinhaltigen Fasern
EP1789014A1 (fr) 2004-09-14 2007-05-30 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Substances servant a teindre des fibres keratiniques
US20060248663A1 (en) * 2005-05-03 2006-11-09 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions comprising discrete particles aggregates and discrete particle agglomerates for application to keratin fibers
WO2012159919A1 (fr) 2011-05-25 2012-11-29 Unilever Plc Produit pour coloration des cheveux comprenant des ions métalliques et un composant tiré de groseille rouge ou de cassis.
FR2981569A1 (fr) 2011-10-21 2013-04-26 Oreal Procede de coloration capillaire a partir d'une composition comprenant au moins un orthodiphenol, une cyclodextrine, un sel metallique, et du (bi)carbonate

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3266502A1 (fr) 2016-07-05 2018-01-10 Unilever N.V. Traitement de fibres kératiniques

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