WO2014176724A1 - Cosmetic composition in form of a gel - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition in form of a gel Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014176724A1
WO2014176724A1 PCT/CN2013/074948 CN2013074948W WO2014176724A1 WO 2014176724 A1 WO2014176724 A1 WO 2014176724A1 CN 2013074948 W CN2013074948 W CN 2013074948W WO 2014176724 A1 WO2014176724 A1 WO 2014176724A1
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Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
composition
polymers
derivatives
acid
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PCT/CN2013/074948
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French (fr)
Inventor
Rong Zhu
Yihao CHAI
Xuedong Liu
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Priority to CN201380076058.8A priority Critical patent/CN105120828B/en
Priority to PCT/CN2013/074948 priority patent/WO2014176724A1/en
Publication of WO2014176724A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014176724A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042Gels
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61Surface treated
    • A61K2800/62Coated
    • A61K2800/622Coated by organic compounds

Definitions

  • the composition is in the form of a gel.
  • the composition contains a gelified aqueous phase.
  • the current invention further comprises at least one sunscreen agent.
  • said alkyl is C 1-5 -alkyl, in particular is d-4 -alkyl group and said acyl is derived from acrylic acid or from an acrylic acid derivative, e.g., methacrylic acid, or from a fatty acid.
  • Acyl groups in particular are derived from a C 6 -3o fatty, more in particular from a C1 2 -24 fatty acid, even more particularly from a C16- 20 fatty acid.
  • Such fatty acids may be capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxyl stearic, oleic acid.
  • Crosslinked copolymers that are more particularly used according to the invention are the products sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) sold by the company SEPPIC, or Simulgel EG (CTFA name: sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80).
  • These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or alkyl-substituted derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with mono- or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, itaconic acid and maleic acid, or mixtures thereof.
  • ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or alkyl-substituted derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with mono- or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, itaconic acid and maleic acid, or mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one synthetic hydrophilic gelling agent is preferably soluble in water or in the aqueous phase of the present invention.
  • Octocrylene marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N539" by BASF,
  • said care and/or makeup base will be used as touches of makeup before (underneath) of after (on top of) the application of a layer of a care or makeup composition (foundation).

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Cosmetic composition in form of a gel for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising, at least one monoalkyl triacyl titanate treated pigment; and an aqueous phase gellified by at least one synthetic hydrophilic gelling agent.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN FORM OF A GEL
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin. More particularly, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in form of a gel comprising monoalkyi triacyl titanate treated pigments and aqueous phase gellified by at least one synthetic hydrophilic gelling agents, which intends to impart hydrating, fresh, effect, and at the same time, remaining good make up effect..
The composition is in the form of a gel.
Preferably, the viscosity of the gel according to the invention is superior or equal to 20UD (Mobile 3) by Rheomat at 25<C.
The viscosity is generally measured at 25^ with a viscosimeter RHEOMAT RM 180 with Mobile 3 adapted to the viscosity of the product to be tested (mobile is chosen for having a measure between 10 and 90 for UD Unit Deviation), the measure being made after 10mn rotating the mobile inside the composition, with a cisaillement from 200s-1 . The UD values may then be converted in Poises (1 Poise= 0.1 Pa.s) with a correspondence table.
More preferably, the composition contains a gelified aqueous phase.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to cover the skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, the nails and the eyelashes. The skin and the lips, in particular facial skin, are most particularly considered according to the invention.
In particular, they will be compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin of the face and/or of the body, especially facial skin.
BACKGROUND ART
Consumers around the world are in search of novel cosmetic products for improving the appearance of keratin materials and especially the skin, in particular the surface appearance (visible and/or tactile unevenness) and/or the skin complexion, as well as skin hydration.
There exists the prior arts emulsion type cosmetic compositions for hiding skin imperfection and brightening the skin. The emulsion can be either water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion. US2004/0009131 discloses a water-in-oil emulsion foundation containing an oily phase, an aqueous phase, a dimethicone copolyol, at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
l composition, of hydrophobic coated pigments. The composition as such has good stability over time, and good homogeneous make-up on the skin.
US2007/0248550 discloses a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion that contains an uncoated silicone elastomer, a solvent for said elastomer, a non-silicone treated pigment and an emulsifier. The composition is stable over time, without changing skin tone after application. However, water-in-oil emulsion type composition according to the prior arts tend to bring to the skin greasy and therefore uncomfortable feeling, while oil-in-water emulsion type composition of the prior arts failed to provide to the skin a hydration effect, due to the existence of silicone elastomer. . Therefore there exists the need to find novel care and/or makeup products, especially for the complexion, which give a hydrating, fresh, effect, and meanwhile remaining good make up effect, without being greasy and uncomfortable after applying on the keratin materials, especially the skin.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION The inventors have found that such a composition can be obtained by combining monoalkyl triacyl titanate treated pigments and aqueous phase gellified by at least one synthetic hydrophilic gelling agents. The composition as such can satisfy the consumers' needs in terms of both hydration and freshness of the skin, as well as good make up properties, without feeling greasy or uncomfortable. In one aspect, the current invention provides a cosmetic composition in form of a gel for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin of the face, comprising: at least one monoalkyl triacyl titanate treated pigment; and an aqueous phase gellified by at least one synthetic hydrophilic gelling agent.
According to an embodiment, the current invention further comprises at least one sunscreen agent.
According to another embodiment, the current invention further comprises at least one UV booster.
According to yet another embodiment, the current invention further comprises at least one additional cosmetic ingredient. Another aspect of the current invention is directed to a method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising applying to the substrate the cosmetic composition aforementioned.
In particular, the application of the composition to the keratin materials, especially the skin, more especially the facial skin, provides the latter with a hydrating, fresh, effect, while remaining good cosmetic effect, without being greasy after application.
The current invention as described above provides a good balance between hydration, fresh effect and make up effect to the skin such as coverage and homogeneity after application, without greasiness or uncomfort drawbacks. According to the current invention, the composition is in form of a gel.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Monoalkyl triacyl titanate treated pigments
The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one monoalkyl triacyl titanate pigment. Pigments suitable for use in the present invention are treated, e.g., coated or surrounded, with monoalkyl triacyl titanate. Monoalkyl triacyl titanate, also referred to as monoalkyl titanate, may be represented by the formula RO-Ti-(OR')3, wherein R is alkyl and R' is a acyl group which can be the same or different.
In certain embodiments of the monoalkyl triacyl titanate, said alkyl is C1-5 -alkyl, in particular is d-4 -alkyl group and said acyl is derived from acrylic acid or from an acrylic acid derivative, e.g., methacrylic acid, or from a fatty acid. Acyl groups in particular are derived from a C6-3o fatty, more in particular from a C12-24 fatty acid, even more particularly from a C16-20 fatty acid. Such fatty acids may be capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxyl stearic, oleic acid. The acyl groups in these triacyl titanates can be the same or different. Preferred embodiment is mono-isopropyl triacyl titanate, see, U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 20050019284 (specifically paragraphs [0038]-[0052]).
According to a preferred embodiment, the monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), isopropyl dimethacryl isostearoyl titanate, isopropyl dimethacryl isostearoyl titanate. Preferably the monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT).
Mentions may be made of isopropyl triisostearyol titanate treated pigments sold by, for example, KOBO under the tradename BWYO-12 (iron oxide CI 77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWRO-12 (iron oxide CI 77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWBO-12 (iron oxide CI 77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and/or Ti02 CR-50 12 (Titanium dioxide CI 77891 coated with Alumina and isopropyl titanium triisostearate).
In particular, the monoalkyl triacyl titanate treated pigments are present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 1 % to 20%, preferably from 5% to 10%, more preferably 8%, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase
The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase. The aqueous phase comprises water.
A water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25°C), for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (d-C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (CrC4)alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as, film-forming polymers, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in a content ranging from 1 % to 80% by weight, especially from 5% to 75% and more particularly from 10% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophilic gelling agent
The cosmetic compositions of the present invention include at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.
This gelling agent may more particularly be chosen from acrylic polymers described as follows: a- Hydrophilic acrylic polymers
According to the invention, the term "hydrophilic acrylic polymers" especially means non- hydrophobic and non-amphiphilic acrylic polymers.
Said hydrophilic acrylic polymers according to the invention are either polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) acrylic polymers or acrylic acid polymers. The presence of this hydrophilic acrylic polymer makes it possible especially to obtain a composition that has good stability properties.
Among the hydrophilic acrylic polymers that may be mentioned are the following polymers:
Acrylic polymers comprising at least one monomer bearing a sulfonic group.
According to a first embodiment, the hydrophilic acrylic polymer used according to the invention comprises at least one monomer bearing a sulfonic group.
The polymers used in accordance with the invention are homopolymers that may be obtained from at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, which may be in free form or partially or totally neutralized form.
Preferentially, the polymers in accordance with the invention are partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for instance arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are generally neutralized.
In the present invention, the term "neutralized" means polymers that are totally or virtually totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized. The polymers used in the composition of the invention generally have a number-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20 000 000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 20 000 to 5 000 000 g/mol and even more preferentially from 100 000 to 1 500 000 g/mol.
These polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or noncrosslinked. The monomers bearing a sulfonic group of the polymer used in the composition of the invention are especially chosen from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Cr C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(C1-C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, and mixtures thereof. According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers bearing a sulfonic group are chosen from (meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for instance acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2- methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid and 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, and mixtures thereof.
More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®), and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, is used.
When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization.
Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allylic ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allylic or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also the allylic esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds. According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer. The homopolymer of monomers bearing a sulfonic group may be crosslinked with one or more crosslinking agents.
These homopolymers are generally crosslinked and neutralized, and they may be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:
(a) the monomer such as 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of tert-butanol or of water and tert-butanol;
(b) the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably aqueous ammonia NH3, in the amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer ranging from 90% to 100%;
(c) the crosslinking monomer(s) are added to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b); (d) a standard free-radical polymerization is performed in the presence of free-radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10 to 150°C; the polymer precipitates in the tert-butanol-based solution or dispersion.
The preferred AMPS® homopolymers are generally characterized in that they comprise, randomly distributed: a) from 90% to 99.9% by weight of units of general formula (II) below:
Figure imgf000008_0001
CH3 in which X+ denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion, not more than 10 mol% of the cations X+ possibly being protons H+; b) from 0.01 % to 10% by weight of crosslinking units derived from at least one monomer containing at least two olefinic double bonds; the weight proportions being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.
The homopolymers according to the invention that are more particularly preferred comprise from 98% to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (II) and from 0.2% to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.
A polymer of this type that may especially be mentioned is the crosslinked and neutralized 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer sold by the company Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin® AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide). Acrylamide/AMPS® copolymers
According to another embodiment, the hydrophilic acrylic polymer is a crosslinked anionic copolymer formed from units derived from the reaction between (i) acrylamide (monomer 1 ), (ii) 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (monomer 2, referred to hereinbelow for convenience as AMPS®) and (iii) at least one polyolefinically unsaturated compound (monomer 3), constituting here the crosslinking agent.
The crosslinked anionic copolymers used in the context of the present invention are products that are already known per se and their preparation has been described especially in patent application EP-A-0 503 853, the content of which is consequently included in its entirety by reference in the present description. The above copolymers may thus be obtained conventionally according to the emulsion polymerization technique from three different comonomers included in their constitution.
The polyolefinically unsaturated monomers used as crosslinking agents for the preparation of the copolymers in accordance with the invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by methylenebisacrylamide, allyl sucrose and pentaerythritol. Even more preferentially, use is made of methylenebisacrylamide.
Preferably, said polyolefinically unsaturated compound is present in the copolymer in a concentration of between 0.06 and 1 mmol per mole of the monomer units as a whole.
The ratio, expressed in mol%, between acrylamide and AMPS® is preferentially between 85/15 and 15/85, advantageously between 70/30 and 30/70, even more preferentially between 65/35 and 35/65 and even more particularly between 60/40 and 40/60. In addition, AMPS is generally at least partially neutralized in the form of a salt, for example with sodium hydroxide, with potassium hydroxide or with a low molecular weight amine such as triethanolamine, or mixtures thereof. A crosslinked copolymer that is particularly preferred in the context of the implementation of the present invention corresponds to the one prepared in Example 1 of patent application EP-A-0 503 853 mentioned above, and which is then in the form of a water-in-oil inverse emulsion. More precisely, this copolymer is formed from 60 mol% of acrylamide and 40 mol% of the sodium salt of AMPS®, and it is crosslinked with methylenebisacrylamide in a proportion of 0.22 mmol per mole of the total monomer mixture. The final water-in-oil inverse emulsion preferably contains about 40% by weight of crosslinked copolymer as defined above and about 4% by weight of an ethoxylated fatty alcohol with an HLB of about 12.5.
Crosslinked copolymers that are more particularly used according to the invention are the products sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) sold by the company SEPPIC, or Simulgel EG (CTFA name: sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80).
Other hydrophilic acrylic polymers As other hydrophilic acrylic polymers that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of:
- homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or salts thereof and esters thereof, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol 934, 940, 954, 981 and 980 by the company Noveon, Synthalen L® from the company 3V, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name Darvan No. 7® by the company Vanderbilt, the products sold under the names Versicol F or Versicol K by the company Allied Colloid, Ultrahold 8 by the company Ciba Geigy and polyacrylic acids of Synthalen K type,
- polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as glyceryl acrylate polymers, and in particular copolymers of glyceryl acrylate and of acrylic acid, such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel® MS, Lubrajel® CG, Lubrajel® DV, Lubrajel® NP, Lubrajel® ON, Lubrajel® Oil BG, Lubrajel PF, Lubrajel TW and Lubrajel WA by the company Guardian Laboratories. Use is preferably made of Lubrajel® MS,
- polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of Pemulen type,
- copolymers of acrylic acid salt/vinyl alcohol, such as the product sold under the name Hydragen FN® from Cognis, and mixtures thereof. b- Amphiphilic acrylic polymers
Such polymers may be derived from the AMPS® products described previously. These polymers comprise both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part comprising at least one fatty chain. They are therefore amphiphilic polymers.
A fatty chain of such a polymer may comprise from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
A hydrophobic AMPS® copolymer in accordance with the invention may have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 50 000 to 10 000 000, in particular from 100 000 to 8 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 7 000 000.
A hydrophobic AMPS® copolymer according to the invention may be crosslinked or noncrosslinked.
Among the crosslinking agents that may be suitable for use, mention may be made, in a nonlimiting manner, of methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).
The degree of crosslinking may range from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
An amphiphilic AMPS® polymer that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen, for example, from statistical amphiphilic AMPS® polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n- monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine such as those described in patent application WO 00/31 154.
These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or alkyl-substituted derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with mono- or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, itaconic acid and maleic acid, or mixtures thereof.
A polymer of the invention may be chosen from amphiphilic polymers of AMPS® and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
The hydrophobic part may be a saturated or unsaturated linear (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n- hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl), branched (for example isostearic) or cyclic (for example cyclododecane or adamantane) alkyl radical. An ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (1 ) below:
R
Figure imgf000012_0001
^¾ in which:
Pt27 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched CrC6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl), Y denotes O or NH;
Pt28 denotes a hydrophobic radical comprising a fatty chain containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
The hydrophobic radical R28 is chosen from saturated or unsaturated linear C7-C22 alkyl radicals (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl), branched alkyl radicals (for example isostearic) or cyclic alkyl radicals (for example cyclododecane or adamantane); C7-Ci8 alkylperfluoro radicals (for example the group of formula (CH2)2(CF2)9-CF3); the cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol ester, for instance cholesteryl hexanoate; aromatic polycyclic groups, for instance naphthalene or pyrene.
Among these radicals, linear and branched alkyl radicals are more particularly preferred. According to one embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic radical R2s may also comprise at least one alkylene oxide unit and in particular a polyoxyalkylene chain.
A polyoxyalkylene chain may be formed from ethylene oxide units and/or propylene oxide units and even more particularly be formed solely from ethylene oxide units. The number of moles of oxyalkylene units may generally range from 1 to 30 mol, more particularly from 2 to 25 mol and even more particularly from 3 to 20 mol.
Among the AMPS® amphiphilic polymers that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of: crosslinked or noncrosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers comprising from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS® units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (C8- Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylamide units or of (C8-Ci6)alkyl (meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 750 899; terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n(C6-Ci8)alkylacrylamide units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent US-A-5 089 578.
As amphiphilic polymers that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of polyoxyethylenated (crosslinked or noncrosslinked) copolymers of AMPS® and of alkyl methacrylates, and mixtures thereof.
As amphiphilic polymers that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may also be made of copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS® and of n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl and/or n-octadecyl methacrylate, and also copolymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide, which may be crosslinked or noncrosslinked.
Mention may also be made of crosslinked or noncrosslinked amphiphilic copolymers comprising, or even formed from: 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) units of formula (2) below: d=† CH3 (2)
NH c— CH2SO¾X
CH3 in which X may be a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or an ammonium ion; and units of formula (3) below:
Figure imgf000014_0001
XH.OH HnCH(CHjO}-R
" * P & in which: n and p, independently of each other, denote a number of moles and range from 0 to 30, in particular from 1 to 25 and more particularly from 3 to 20, with the proviso that n + p is less than or equal to 30, in particular less than 25 and more particularly less than 20; R27 has the same meaning indicated in the preceding formula (1 ), and
R29 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising m carbon atoms, m ranging from 7 to 22 and preferably from 12 to 20.
In formula (2), the cation X may more particularly denote sodium or ammonium.
Mention may be made in particular of: noncrosslinked polymers for which p = 0, n = 7 or 25, R27 denotes methyl and R29 represents a mixture of C12-C14 or C16-C18 alkyl, and crosslinked polymers for which p = 0, n = 8 or 25, R27 denotes methyl and R29 represents a mixture of Ci6-Ci8 alkyl. These polymers are described and synthesized in document EP 1 069 142.
These particular amphiphilic polymers may be obtained according to the standard free-radical polymerization processes in the presence of one or more initiators such as, for example, azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, 2,2-azobis[2-amidinopropane] hydrochloride (ABAH), organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide, tert-butyl hydroperoxide, etc., mineral peroxide compounds such as potassium persulfate or ammonium persulfate, or H202 optionally in the presence of reducing agents.
These amphiphilic polymers may be obtained by free-radical polymerization in tert-butanol medium, in which they precipitate. By using precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol, it is possible to obtain a size distribution of the polymer particles that is particularly favorable for its uses.
The reaction may be performed at a temperature of between 0 and Ι δΟ 'Ό and preferably between 10 and 100°C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure.
The reaction may also be performed under inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen. A polymer in accordance with the invention may be partially or totally neutralized with a mineral or organic base such as those mentioned above.
The molar percentage concentration of the units of formula (2) and of the units of formula (3) in an amphiphilic polymer according to the invention may vary as a function of the desired cosmetic application, the nature of the emulsion (oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion) and the rheological properties of the desired formulation.
It can range between 0.1 and 99.9 mol%.
The molar proportion of units of formula (3) in an amphiphilic polymer according to the invention may preferably range from 0.1 % to 50%, more particularly from 1 % to 25% and even more particularly from 3% to 10%. The molar proportion of units of formula (3) in an amphiphilic polymer according to the invention may preferably range from 50.1 % to 99.9%, more particularly from 60% to 95% and even more particularly from 65% to 90%. The distribution of the monomers in the polymers of the invention may be, for example, alternate, block (including multiblock) or random.
As a guide, and without this being limiting, mention may be made of the following commercial references: Aristoflex® HMS and Aristoflex® HMB sold by Clariant, these two references relating to crosslinked polymers.
Aristoflex® HMS is the name of the AMPS®/ethoxylated (25 EO) cetearyl methacrylate copolymer 80/20, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) or ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/stearate-25 methacrylate crosspolymer as the INCI name.
As the INCI name, Aristoflex® HMB is ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer.
It is also possible to use, as hydrophobic AMPS copolymer, noncrosslinked AMPS® copolymers (Aristoflex® LNC or SNC), which are also effective in terms of stabilizing emulsions.
As the INCI name, Aristoflex® LNC is ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Laureth-7 methacrylate copolymer. As the INCI name, Aristoflex® SNC is ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer.
Among the acrylic polymers that may be combined with a combination in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of neutralized crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers. c- Neutralized crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers
All crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers are suitable for use in the present invention provided that they are used in an at least partially neutralized form.
As regards these crosslinked acrylic polymers already neutralized before use, or otherwise, examples that may be mentioned include: - Cosmedia SP® or crosslinked sodium polyacrylate containing 90% solids and 10% water, Cosmedia SPL® or sodium polyacrylate as an inverse emulsion containing about 60% dry active material, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 laureth-5), both sold by the company Cognis, - modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers (for instance optionally crosslinked acrylic acid polymers), such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (INCI name: Carbomer) by the company Goodrich, Synthalen® K by the company 3V, or Carbopol® 980 by the company Lubrizol. - partially neutralized crosslinked sodium polyacrylates that are in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example the product sold under the name Luvigel® EM sold by the company BASF, and
- mixtures thereof.
A preferred hydrophilic gelling agent of the present invention is ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, also known under the tradename, Hostacerin AMPS®, and commercially available from the supplier Clariant. It is also described as polyacrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) partially neutralized with ammonia and highly cross-linked.
Other preferred hydrophilic gelling agents of the present invention are: modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers (for instance optionally crosslinked acrylic acid polymers), such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (INCI name: Carbomer) by the company Goodrich, Synthalen® K by the company 3V, or Carbopol® 980 by the company Lubrizol.
The at least one synthetic hydrophilic gelling agent is preferably soluble in water or in the aqueous phase of the present invention. The use of hydrophilic gelling agents suitable for the invention at a concentration ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 1 % to 10%, more preferably from 1 % to 3%, makes it possible to adjust the viscosity of the composition of the invention to a value greater than 0.5 Pa.s at 25°C.
Sunscreen/sunblock agents
The present invention may further comprise one or more sunscreen agent.
Sunscreens are important skin-care products used to prevent photoaging and skin cancer. There are two groups of sunscreens: UVA sunscreens, which block UV radiation in the wavelength range of about 320 to 400 nm, and UVB sunscreens, which block radiation in the range of 290 to 320 nm. The compositions in accordance with the invention comprise organic and/or inorganic UV sunscreen ingredients active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region which are hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
In particular, the UV sunscreen agents according to the invention might have a solubility parameter ranging from 8.0 to 9.5. Said UV sunscreen ingredients have a good plasticizer function.
Advantageously, the UV sunscreen agent according to the invention might have a molecular weight ranging from 150 to 500 g/mol and contain hydrophobic sites and benzene nucleus or electron resonance group binding with polar sites.
The hydrophilic and/or lipophilic organic UV sunscreen agents are selected in particular from benzylidene camphor derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; and their mixtures.
Mention may be made, as examples of organic sunscreen agents, of those denoted below under their INCI names:
- para-Aminobenzoic acid derivatives:
PABA,
Ethyl PABA,
Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,
Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, marketed in particular under the trademark "Escalol 507" by ISP, Glyceryl PABA,
- Dibenzoylmethane Derivatives:
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann-LaRoche,
Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane,
- Salicylic Derivatives:
Homosalate, marketed under the trademark "Eusolex HMS" by Rona/EM Industries,
Ethylhexyl Salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan OS" by Haarmann and Reimer,
Dipropyleneglycol Salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Dipsal" by Scher,
TEA Salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer,
- Cinnamic Derivatives: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann-LaRoche,
Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate,
Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer,
Cinoxate,
DEA Methoxycinnamate,
Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,
Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate,
- β,β-Diphenylacrylate Derivatives:
Octocrylene, marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N539" by BASF,
Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N35" by BASF,
- Benzophenone Derivatives:
Benzophenone-1 , marketed under the trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF,
Benzophenone-2, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul D50" by BASF,
Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul M40" by BASF, Benzophenone-4, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul MS40" by BASF,
Benzophenone-5,
Benzophenone-6, marketed under the trademark "Helisorb 1 1 " by Norquay,
- Benzylidene camphor derivatives:
- Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid marketed under the tradename Mexoryl SX by the company Chimex, - 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor
- and their mixtures.
The organic sunscreen agent is selected from an aminobenzoic acid derivative, a dibenzoylmethane derivative, a salicylic acid derivative, a cinnamic derivative, a β,β diphenylacrylate derivative, a benzophenone derivative, benzylidene camphor derivative, and mixtures thereof.
The preferred UV sunscreen ingredients are selected in the group consisting of cinnamic derivatives, β,β diphenylacrylates derivatives, salicylic derivatives, and their mixtures.
The preferred UV sunscreen ingredients are especially selected in the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene and ethylhexyl salicylate, and their mixtures. Mention may be made especially of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold under the tradename UVINUL MC 80® by the company BASF, of ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the tradename NEO HELIOPAN OS® by the company SYMRISE and of octocrylene sold under the tradename NEO HELIOPAN 303® by the company SYMRISE.
The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise from 0 to 50% by weight, for example from 1 to 20% by weight, for example from 2 to 10% by weight, of sunscreen agent relative to the total weight of the composition.
UV booster
The composition of the present invention may further comprises one or more UV booster.
"UV booster" means each organic or inorganic, non polymeric or polymeric compound able to increase the Sun Protection Factor and/or the PPD Index (UVA protection index) of a UV sunscreening composition containing at least one UVA and/or UVB screening agent.
The efficacy of antisun compositions is generally expressed by the sun protection factor (SPF), which is expressed mathematically by the ratio of the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythemogenic threshold with the UV screening agent to the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythemogenic threshold without UV screening agent. This factor thus relates to the effectiveness of the protection with respect to erythema, the spectrum of biological action of which is centred in the UV-B region, and consequently describes the protection with respect to this UV-B radiation.
In view of the effects of UV-A radiation on the skin and of the development of numerous compositions comprising combinations of screening agents capable of absorbing UV-B and/or UV-A radiation, specific methods for evaluating protection against UV-A radiation have been developed. For the characterization of protection with respect to UV-A radiation, the PPD (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method, which measures the colour of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure of the skin to UV-A radiation, is particularly recommended and used. This method was adopted in 1996 by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as official test procedure for the UV-A labelling of products and is frequently used by test laboratories in Europe and the United States (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued November 21 , 1995 and effective of January 1 , 1996).
The sun protection factor UV-APPD (UV-APPD PF) is expressed mathematically by the ratio of the dose of UV-A radiation necessary to reach the pigmentation threshold with the UV screening agent (MPPDp) to the dose of UV-A radiation necessary to reach the pigmentation threshold without UV screening agent (MPPDnp).
UV-AppD PF =MPPDp/MPPDnp
Mentions may be made of the UV booster such as styrene/acrylates copolymer that are marketed, for example under the tradename Sunspheres Powder by the company Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical).
Oily phase
A cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention further comprises an oily phase.
The term "oil" means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
The oily phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm2/min.
To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m3 that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25^, and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm2) and per unit of time (minutes). The term "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm2/min, limits included.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
The term "fluoro oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms. The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises silicone oils, for example, dimethicone with viscosity of 5 CST, sold under the trademark Xiamete PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS by Dow Corning, or dimethicone with viscosity of 10 CST sold under the tradename Element14 PDMS 10-A by Momentive Performance Materials.
Preferably, the composition may comprise an oily phase presenting in the composition in a content ranging from 0% to 40%, preferably from 1 % to 20%, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the oily phase comprises monoalkyl triacyl titanate pigments. The oily phase as such is present in the compositioin in a content ranging from 1 % to 50% by weight, especially from 5% to 40% and more particularly from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Galenic form
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, which may be in the form of a gel for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin.
A gel composition according to the invention may be in the form of makeup compositions and/or care compositions for keratin materials, in particular for skin or lips. Particularly , a composition according to the invention may be a BB product or a foundation especially to be applied on the face or neck, a product for masking dark circles, a concealer product, a tinted cream, a colored composition for care or for making up the skin, especially for the face or body or an after-sun composition. In a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the present invention is a non-rinsing composition: the composition is not intended to be rinsed after application on the skin.
A gel composition according to the invention may comprise at least one surfactant (emulsifier), chosen especially from amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants, used alone or as a mixture. It may then be in a colour form, optionally containing cosmetic or dermatological active agents. It may then be used as a care or makeup base for keratin materials, in particular the skin.
A dispersion is made as an oily phase.
The composition according to the invention may form a base composition, or a care and/or makeup composition, or a composition to be applied under or on top of another makeup and/or care composition, in small touches in order to unify the complexion.
According to another embodiment, said care and/or makeup base will be used as touches of makeup before (underneath) of after (on top of) the application of a layer of a care or makeup composition (foundation).
According to one particular embodiment, said composition is applied in touches to the areas of the face exhibiting skin defects; this application may take place before the subsequent application of a foundation or afterwards. According to another particular embodiment, it may be applied around the eyes in order to illuminate the eye area or above the lips, on the cupid's bow, to give a curved shape.
According to one particular embodiment, said composition is applied to people with skin that has visible and/or tactile unevenness and/or a heterogeneity of the complexion.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, said composition is applied to people with oily skin.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, said composition is applied to people with aged skin or mature skin. Additional cosmetic ingredients
Depending upon the form and the aim of the skin care or make-up preparation, the composition of the invention will further comprise additional cosmetic ingredient(s) such as the ones selected from surfactants, fillers, thickening agents, film forming agents, polymers, preservatives, silicone elastomere, self-tanning agents, additional non-entrapped colorants, actives, UV filters, perfumes, pH regulators and mixtures thereof.
It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not thereby affected. The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples which follow. The amounts are given as percentage by mass.
EXAMPLES
Formulation examples
The following examples were prepared:
Figure imgf000024_0001
KOBO)
Iron oxide CI 77491 and
isopropyl titanium
0.27 0.27 0 0 triisostearate (BW O-12 from
KOBO)
Iron oxide CI 77499 and
isopropyl titanium
0.05 0.05 0 0 triisostearate (BWBO-12 from
KOBO)
Titanium dioxide (and) C9-15
floroalcohol phosphate (and)
0 0 6.84 0 aluminum hydroxide (PFX-5
Ti02 CR-50 from Daito)
Iron oxide (and) C9-15
fluroalcohol phosphate
0 0 0.84 0 (PFX-5 Sunpuro Yellow C33- 9001 from Daito)
B2
Iron oxide (and) C9-i 5
fluroalcohol phosphate
0 0 0.27 0 (PFX-5 Sunpuro red C33- 8001 from Daito)
Iron oxide (and) C9-i 5
fluroalcohol phosphate
0 0 0.05 0 (PFX-5 Sunpuro black C33- 7001 from Daito)
Titanium dioxide (Hombitan®
0 0 0 6.84 FF pharma from Sachtleben)
Iron oxide (Sunpuro yellow
iron oxie C33-9001 from 0 0 0 0.84
Daito)
B3
Iron oxide (Sunpuro red iron
0 0 0 0.27 oxide C33-8001 from Sun)()
Iron oxide (Sunpuro black
iron oxide C33-7001 from 0 0 0 0.05
Sun) Dimethicone (Xiameter® PMX- 200 silicone fluid 5CS from Dow 1.80 1.80 1.80 1.8
Corning)
Dimethicone (ElementM PDMS
10-A from Momentive 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.5 Performance Materials)
c
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
(Parsol® MCX from DSM 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Nutritional Products)
Carbomer (Synthalen® K from
0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 3V)
Amonium polyacryloyldimethyl
taurate (Hostacerin® AMPS 0.80 0 0.80 0.80 from Clariant)
D Polyacrylamide/C13-14
isoparaffin/Laureth 7 (Sepigel 0 3.20 0 0 305 from Seppic)
Styrene/acrylates copolymer
(Sunspheres Powder from
1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Rohm and Haas (Dow
Chemical).)
WATER 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00
E Triethanolamine 0.60
(Triethanolamind 99% from 0.60 0.60 0.60 Dow Chemical)
F
ALCOHOL 15.00 15.00 15.00 15.00
The examples are prepared following the steps of: (Helga, please input) 1 ) Heat phase A to 60 °C until homogeneous.
Disperse phase B1 (or B2 or B3) in phase C with tricylinder three times.
3) Cool down the mixture to 25°C , disperse the mixture with homogenizer in 30mins.
4) Add phase D into the mixture with homogenizer until homogeneous in 20mins.
5) Add phase E into the mixture to neutralize in 5mins.
6) Add phase F into the mixture to homogeneous in 10mins. Evaluation examples
Evaluations on the stability of the examples, hydrating, fresh, anti greasy effect, as well as make up effect such as coverage, homogeneity are performed. Stability of the examples is evaluated by the inventors by observing the examples after formulation. Examples with which pigments are well dispersed are homogeneous. On the other hand, the examples with which the pigments are not dispersed have poor stability, and are not acceptable.
Not soluble, the pigments are dispersible in the oil phase in invention, but in the comparison, the pigments can't be dispersed in oil phase (C phase), it can formulate after all. Hydrating, fresh, anti-greasy effects as well as meke up effect such as coverage, homogeneity after application are evaluated by a panel of 5 panelists, by applying the examples aforementioned on the skin of the 5 panelists, and evaluate the above mentioned cosmetic properties.
Finally, comments or scores are given by the panelists on the properties. 5: very good;
4: basically good; 3: acceptable;
2: slightly poor and not acceptable;
1 : poor, not acceptable. Properties Scores of the examples
Invention Invention Comparative Comparative example 1 example 2 example 1 example 2
Stability of the examples (aspect of homogene homogene Not Not the examples) ous ous homogeneou homogeneou s s
Hydrating effect 5 4 0 0
Fresh effect 5 4 0 0
Anti-greasy effect 5 4 0 0
Make up effect 5 4 0 0
After evaluation, the inventors found that the invention examples can bring to the skin good hydrating, fresh effect, and at the same time good make up effect such as coverage and homogenenity after application, comparing the the comparative examples, among which, comparative examples 1 -2 are not stable and thus not acceptable, which comparative example 3 has good hydrating effect, but do not bring to the skin any make up effect as such.

Claims

What is claimed is:
1 . A cosmetic composition in form of a gel for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:
(a) at least one monoalkyl triacyl titanate treated pigment; and
(b) an aqueous phase gellified by at least one synthetic hydrophilic gelling agent.
2. Cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the monoalkyl triacyl titanate treated pigment comprises an isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate treated pigment.
3. Cosmetic composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the monoalkyl triacyl titanate treated pigment comprises inorganic pigments, preferably metal oxide pigments, more preferably iron oxide, titanium dioxide, or a mixture thereof.
4. Cosmetic composition of claim 3, wherein the dioxide is titanium dioxide, and said iron oxide comprises yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, black iron oxide, or a mixture thereof.
5. Cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, wherein the monoalkyl triacyl titanate treated pigment is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1 % to 20%, preferably from 5% to 10%, more preferably 8%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the synthetic hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from hydrophilic acrylic polymers, preferably hydrophilic acrylic polymers comprising at least one monomer bearing a sulfonic group, acrylic acid polymers, and a mixture thereof.
7. Cosmetic composition of claim 1 or 6, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid acrylic homopolymers, Acrylamide/ polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid acrylic copolymers, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and its copolymers with acrylamide or polyoxyethylene alkyl methacrylates, optionally cross-linked.
8. Cosmetic composition of claim 1 , 6 or 7, wherein the synthetic hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from acrylamide/ polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid acrylic copolymers with 60 mol% of acrylamide and 40 mol% of the sodium salt of polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid acrylic acidmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-8 methacrylate crosspolymer, and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer.
9. Cosmetic composition of claim 1 , 6, 7 or 8, wherein the at least one synthetic hydrophilic gelling agent is polyacrylamide/Ci3-i 4 isoparaffin/Laureth 7, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, carbomer, or a mixture thereof.
1 0. Cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein the synthetic hydrophilic gelling agent is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 20%, preferably from 1 % to 1 0%, more preferably from 1 % to 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
1 1 . Cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the aqueous phase further comprises water, monoalcohols, polyols, or a mixture thereof.
1 2. Cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 1 1 , wherein the aqueous phase is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1 % to 80% by weight, especially from 5% to 75% and more particularly from 1 0% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
1 3. Cosmetic composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 12 further comprises at least one sunscreen agent selected from the group consisting of benzylidene camphor derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; and their mixtures.
14. Cosmetic composition of claim 1 3, wherein the sunscreen agent is preferably ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.
1 5. Cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 14 further comprises at least one UV booster.
1 6. Cosmetic composition of claim 15, wherein the UV booster is preferably styrene/acrylates copolymer.
PCT/CN2013/074948 2013-04-28 2013-04-28 Cosmetic composition in form of a gel WO2014176724A1 (en)

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WO2004060273A2 (en) * 2002-12-18 2004-07-22 Nalco Company Skin care composition containing an anionic polymer
US20050008592A1 (en) * 2002-06-26 2005-01-13 Nadia Gardel Water-in-oil emulsion foundation

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US20050008592A1 (en) * 2002-06-26 2005-01-13 Nadia Gardel Water-in-oil emulsion foundation
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