WO2014081680A1 - Footwear upper incorporating a knitted component with collar and throat portions - Google Patents
Footwear upper incorporating a knitted component with collar and throat portions Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2014081680A1 WO2014081680A1 PCT/US2013/070651 US2013070651W WO2014081680A1 WO 2014081680 A1 WO2014081680 A1 WO 2014081680A1 US 2013070651 W US2013070651 W US 2013070651W WO 2014081680 A1 WO2014081680 A1 WO 2014081680A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- knitted component
- footwear
- article
- knit
- knit layer
- Prior art date
Links
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims description 88
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 66
- 210000003423 ankle Anatomy 0.000 claims description 19
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 15
- 230000002093 peripheral effect Effects 0.000 claims description 13
- 238000005304 joining Methods 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 86
- 210000002683 foot Anatomy 0.000 description 54
- 210000000474 heel Anatomy 0.000 description 29
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 27
- 239000011800 void material Substances 0.000 description 15
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 description 7
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 description 5
- 230000033001 locomotion Effects 0.000 description 5
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000000386 athletic effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 210000004744 fore-foot Anatomy 0.000 description 4
- 210000000452 mid-foot Anatomy 0.000 description 4
- 238000004026 adhesive bonding Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000001965 increasing effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 210000003371 toe Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000003247 decreasing effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229920001971 elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000010985 leather Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002649 leather substitute Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002699 waste material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000005299 abrasion Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000000459 calcaneus Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000010961 commercial manufacture process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002708 enhancing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- BFMKFCLXZSUVPI-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethyl but-3-enoate Chemical compound CCOC(=O)CC=C BFMKFCLXZSUVPI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006261 foam material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002209 hydrophobic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002045 lasting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000155 melt Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000001872 metatarsal bone Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002356 single layer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001169 thermoplastic Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000012815 thermoplastic material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004416 thermosoftening plastic Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0205—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B1/00—Footwear characterised by the material
- A43B1/02—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom
- A43B1/04—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom braided, knotted, knitted or crocheted
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0205—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
- A43B23/0235—Different layers of different material
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0205—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
- A43B23/024—Different layers of the same material
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
- A43B23/025—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form assembled by stitching
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
- A43B23/0265—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form having different properties in different directions
- A43B23/0275—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form having different properties in different directions with a part of the upper particularly rigid, e.g. resisting articulation or torsion
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
- A43B23/0295—Pieced uppers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B5/00—Footwear for sporting purposes
- A43B5/06—Running shoes; Track shoes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43C—FASTENINGS OR ATTACHMENTS OF FOOTWEAR; LACES IN GENERAL
- A43C1/00—Shoe lacing fastenings
- A43C1/04—Shoe lacing fastenings with rings or loops
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
- D04B1/108—Gussets, e.g. pouches or heel or toe portions
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
- D10B2403/023—Fabric with at least two, predominantly unlinked, knitted or woven plies interlaced with each other at spaced locations or linked to a common internal co-extensive yarn system
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
- D10B2501/043—Footwear
Definitions
- Conventional articles of footwear generally include two primary elements, an upper and a sole structure.
- the upper is secured to the sole structure and forms a void on the interior of the footwear for comfortably and securely receiving a foot.
- the sole structure is secured to a lower area of the upper, thereby being positioned between the upper and the ground.
- the sole structure may include a midsole and an outsole.
- the midsole often includes a polymer foam material that attenuates ground reaction forces to lessen stresses upon the foot and leg during walking, running, and other ambulatory activities.
- the midsole may include fluid-filled chambers, plates, moderators, or other elements that further attenuate forces, enhance stability, or influence the motions of the foot.
- the outsole is secured to a lower surface of the midsole and provides a ground- engaging portion of the sole structure formed from a durable and wear-resistant material, such as rubber.
- the sole structure may also include a sockliner positioned within the void and proximal a lower surface of the foot to enhance footwear comfort.
- the upper generally extends over the instep and toe areas of the foot, along the medial and lateral sides of the foot, under the foot, and around the heel area of the foot.
- the upper may extend upward and around the ankle to provide support or protection for the ankle.
- Access to the void on the interior of the upper is generally provided by an ankle opening in a heel region of the footwear.
- a lacing system is often incorporated into the upper to adjust the fit of the upper, thereby permitting entry and removal of the foot from the void within the upper.
- the lacing system also permits the wearer to modify certain dimensions of the upper, particularly girth, to accommodate feet with varying dimensions.
- the upper may include a tongue that extends under the lacing system to enhance adjustability of the footwear, and the upper may incorporate a heel counter to limit movement of the heel.
- the upper may have multiple layers that each include a variety of joined material elements.
- the material elements may be selected to impart stretch-resistance, wear- resistance, flexibility, air-permeability, compressibility, comfort, and moisture- wicking to different areas of the upper.
- material elements are often cut to desired shapes and then joined together, usually with stitching or adhesive bonding.
- the material elements are often joined in a layered configuration to impart multiple properties to the same areas.
- a knitted component of the upper includes a collar portion and a throat portion.
- the collar portion has a cylindrical configuration defining an ankle opening.
- the throat portion extends outward from the collar portion and through at least a portion of a length of a throat area of the upper.
- the collar portion and the throat portion form (a) a first area of an exterior surface of the upper and (b) a first area of an interior surface of the upper.
- a cover component of the upper is secured to the knitted component and extends between the knitted component and the sole structure.
- the cover component forms (a) a second area of the exterior surface of the upper and (b) a second area of the interior surface of the upper.
- a knitted component for an article of footwear includes a collar portion, a throat portion, a first knit layer, and a second knit layer.
- the collar portion has a cylindrical configuration.
- the throat portion extends outward from the collar portion.
- the first knit layer forms a first surface of the collar portion and the throat portion.
- the second knit layer is located adjacent to the first knit layer and forms an opposite second surface of the collar portion and the throat portion.
- a method for manufacturing an article of footwear includes utilizing a circular knitting process to form a knitted component by (a) knitting two substantially coextensive layers and (b) joining peripheral areas of the layers to each other.
- the method also includes incorporating the knitted component into an upper of the article of footwear, with (a) the knitted component forming a collar of the upper and (b) the knitted component extending through a majority of a length of a throat area of the upper.
- Figure 1 is a lateral side elevational view of an article of footwear.
- Figure 2 is a medial side elevational view of the article of footwear.
- Figure 3 is a top plan view of the article of footwear.
- Figures 4A-4C are cross-sectional views of the article of footwear, as defined by section lines 4A-4C in Figure 3.
- Figure 5 is an exploded lateral side elevational view of the article of footwear.
- Figure 6 is a perspective view of a knitted component that forms a portion of an upper of the article of footwear.
- Figure 7 is a lateral side elevational view of the knitted component.
- Figure 8 is a medial side elevational view of the knitted component.
- Figure 9 is a front elevational view of the knitted component.
- Figure 10 is a rear elevational view of the knitted component.
- Figures 1 1A-1 1 E are cross-sectional views of the knitted component, as defined by section lines 1 1 A-1 1 E in Figure 6.
- Figures 12A-12E are lateral side elevational views corresponding with Figure 1 and depicting further configurations of the article of footwear.
- Figures 13A-13E are lateral side elevational views corresponding with Figure 7 and depicting further configurations of the knitted component.
- Figures 14A-14F are cross-sectional views corresponding with Figure 1 1 E and depicting further configurations of the knitted component.
- Figure 15 is a schematic view of a pattern for forming the knitted component.
- Figure 16 is a perspective view of a tubular structure.
- Figure 17 is a perspective view of the knitted component when removed from the tubular structure.
- Figure 18 is a perspective view of another configuration of the tubular structure.
- knitted components are disclosed with reference to articles of footwear having configurations that are suitable for running and basketball, concepts associated with the knitted components may be applied to a wide range of athletic footwear styles, including baseball shoes, football shoes, golf shoes, hiking shoes and boots, ski and snowboarding boots, soccer shoes, tennis shoes, training shoes, and walking shoes, for example.
- Concepts associated with the knitted components may also be utilized with footwear styles that are generally considered to be non-athletic, including dress shoes, loafers, sandals, and work boots. Accordingly, a variety of footwear styles and configurations may incorporate concepts discussed herein.
- FIG. 1 -5 An article of footwear 100 is depicted in Figures 1 -5 as including a sole structure 1 10 and an upper 120.
- sole structure 1 10 is located under and supports a foot of a wearer
- upper 120 provides a comfortable and secure covering for the foot.
- the foot may be located within upper 120 to effectively secure the foot within footwear 100 or otherwise unite the foot and footwear 100.
- sole structure 1 10 is secured to a lower area of upper 120 and extends between the foot and the ground to attenuate ground reaction forces (i.e., cushion the foot), provide traction, enhance stability, and influence the motions of the foot, for example.
- footwear 100 may be divided into three general regions: a forefoot region 101 , a midfoot region 102, and a heel region 103.
- Forefoot region 101 generally includes portions of footwear 100 corresponding with toes of the foot and the joints connecting the metatarsals with the phalanges.
- Midfoot region 102 generally includes portions of footwear 100 corresponding with an arch area of the foot.
- Heel region 103 generally corresponds with rear portions of the foot, including the calcaneus bone.
- Footwear 100 also includes a lateral side 104 and a medial side 105, which extend through each of regions 101 -103 and correspond with opposite sides of footwear 100. More particularly, lateral side 104 corresponds with an outside area of the foot (i.e.
- regions 101 -103 and sides 104-105 are not intended to demarcate precise areas of footwear 100. Rather, regions 101 -103 and sides 104-105 are intended to represent general areas of footwear 100 to aid in the following discussion. In addition to footwear 100, regions 101 -103 and sides 104-105 may also be applied to sole structure 1 10, upper 120, and individual elements thereof.
- midsole 1 1 1 The primary elements of sole structure 1 10 are a midsole 1 1 1 , an outsole 1 12, and a sockliner 1 13.
- Midsole 1 1 1 is secured to a lower surface of upper 120 and may be formed from a compressible polymer foam element (e.g., a polyurethane or ethylvinylacetate foam) that attenuates ground reaction forces (i.e., provides cushioning) when compressed between the foot and the ground during walking, running, or other ambulatory activities.
- a compressible polymer foam element e.g., a polyurethane or ethylvinylacetate foam
- midsole 1 1 1 may incorporate plates, moderators, fluid-filled chambers, lasting elements, or motion control members that further attenuate forces, enhance stability, or influence the motions of the foot, or midsole 21 may be primarily formed from a fluid-filled chamber.
- Outsole 1 12 is secured to a lower surface of midsole 1 1 1 and may be formed from a wear-resistant rubber material that is textured to impart traction.
- Sockliner 1 13 is located within upper 120 and is positioned to extend under a lower surface of the foot to enhance the comfort of footwear 100.
- Upper 120 defines a void 121 within footwear 100 for receiving and securing a foot relative to sole structure 1 10.
- Void 121 is shaped to accommodate the foot. When the foot is located within void 121 , therefore, upper 120 extends along a lateral side of the foot, along a medial side of the foot, over the foot, around the heel, and under the foot.
- a collar 122 is located in at least heel region 103 and forms an ankle opening 123 that provides the foot with access to void 121. When the foot is located within void 121 , collar 122 and ankle opening 123 extend around or otherwise encircle the ankle.
- upper 120 may include additional elements, such as a lacing system that assists with tightening upper 120 around the foot and loosening portions of upper 120 to allow entry and removal of the foot from void 121.
- Further configurations of upper 120 may also include one or more of (a) a heel counter in heel region 103 for enhancing stability, (b) a toe guard in forefoot region 101 that is formed of a wear-resistant material, and (c) logos, trademarks, and placards with care instructions and material information.
- upper 120 may incorporate various features and elements, in addition to the features and elements discussed herein and shown in the figures.
- a majority of upper 120 is formed from a knitted component 130 and a cover component 140, which are depicted separately in Figure 5.
- Knitted component 130 has a knitted structure and is formed of unitary knit construction (i.e., as a one-piece element) through a knitting process. When incorporated into upper 120, knitted component 130 extends through heel region 103 to form collar 122 and ankle opening 123. Knitted component 130 also extends into a throat area 124 of upper 120, which is primarily located in midfoot region 102 and corresponds with an instep region or upper surface of the foot. Cover component 140 is secured to knitted component 130 (e.g., through stitching, adhesive bonding, thermal bonding) and extends through each of regions 101 - 103 and between knitted component 130 and sole structure 1 10.
- cover component 140 may extend between throat area 124 and an area where upper 120 is secured to sole structure 1 10.
- cover component 140 may be formed from multiple material elements (e.g., textiles, polymer foam, polymer sheets, leather, synthetic leather) that are joined through stitching or bonding, for example.
- cover component 140 may have a layered structure that includes multiple overlapping material elements.
- Upper 120 includes an exterior surface 125 and an opposite interior surface
- interior surface 126 defines a portion of void 121.
- a foot located within void 121 or a sock covering the foot
- Surfaces 125 and 126 are cooperatively formed by each of knitted component 130 and cover component 140. More particularly, knitted component 130 forms a first area of exterior surface 125 and cover component 140 forms a second area of exterior surface 125, and knitted component 130 forms a first area of interior surface 126 and cover component 140 forms a second area of interior surface 126.
- each of components 130 and 140 may form more than thirty percent of each of surfaces 125 and 126. Accordingly, knitted component 130 and cover component 140 each form separate portions of exterior surface 125 and interior surface 126.
- knitted component 130 include stretch and recovery properties, as well as enhanced fit and comfort.
- collar 122 may stretch to permit the foot to enter void 121 through ankle opening 123.
- portions of knitted component 130 located in throat area 124 may also stretch to permit the foot to fully enter void 121.
- knitted component may recover or contract to secure the foot within upper 120. More particularly, collar 122 may recover to securely extend around the ankle, and the portion of knitted component 130 in throat area 124 may recover to draw cover component 140 against the foot, thereby tightening upper 120 around the foot.
- knitted component 130 may be utilized to impart specific stretch and recovery properties to knitted component 130. That is, the degree of stretch and recovery may be engineered into knitted component 130. As a result, knitted component 130 may be designed to extend around the ankle and tighten upper 120 around the foot in a manner that enhances the overall fit of footwear 100. Moreover, knitted component 130 lays against the foot and provides a compliant aspect to upper 120 that enhances the overall comfort of footwear 100.
- Knitted component 130 is depicted individually and separate from a remainder of footwear 100 in Figures 6-1 1 E. Although a knitting process for manufacturing knitted component 130 will be discussed in greater detail below, knitted component 130 is formed from at least one yarn that is manipulated (e.g., with a knitting machine) to form a plurality of intermeshed loops that define a variety of courses and wales. That is, knitted component 130 has the structure of a knit textile. Moreover, knitted component 130 is formed of unitary knit construction. As utilized herein, a knitted component (e.g., knitted component 130) is defined as being formed of "unitary knit construction" when formed as a one-piece element through a knitting process.
- the knitting process substantially forms the various features and structures of knitted component 130 without the need for significant additional manufacturing steps or processes.
- portions of knitted component 130 may be joined to each other (e.g., edges of knitted component 130 being joined together) following the knitting process, knitted component 130 remains formed of unitary knit construction because it is formed as a one-piece knit element. Additionally, knitted component 130 remains formed of unitary knit construction when other elements (e.g., stabilizers, stretch-limiting elements, straps, aesthetic features, logos, trademarks, and placards are added following the knitting process.
- elements e.g., stabilizers, stretch-limiting elements, straps, aesthetic features, logos, trademarks, and placards are added following the knitting process.
- the configuration of knitted component 130 may vary considerably, knitted component 130 is depicted as including a collar portion 131 , a throat portion 132, and a heel portion 133.
- Collar portion 131 has a cylindrical configuration that forms collar 122 and defines ankle opening 123 when incorporated into footwear 100.
- Throat portion 132 extends outward from collar portion 131 and extends through at least a portion of a length of throat area 124 when incorporated into footwear 100.
- Heel portion 133 also extends outward from collar portion 131 and through at least a portion of a height (e.g., a majority of the height) of heel region 103 when incorporated into footwear 100.
- heel portion 133 may be absent from knitted component 130.
- knitted component 130 may be formed from a single layer of textile material, knitted component 130 is depicted as including (a) a first or exterior knit layer 134 and (b) a second or interior knit layer 135 that contact and lay against each other.
- Each of knit layers 134 and 135 extend through and form opposite surfaces of collar portion 131 , throat portion 132, and heel portion 133. That is, each of portions 131 -133 are formed from both of knit layers 134 and 135.
- exterior knit layer 134 forms a portion of exterior surface 125
- interior knit layer 135 forms a portion of interior surface 126.
- exterior knit layer 134 forms a first area of exterior surface 125 and cover component 140 forms a second area of exterior surface 125
- interior knit layer 135 forms a first area of interior surface 126 and cover component 140 forms a second area of interior surface 126.
- Exterior knit layer 134 and interior knit layer 135 are formed during the knitting process and may also be joined to each other through the knitting process, thereby being formed of unitary knit construction. Although the specific locations in which knit layers 134 and 135 are joined may vary, edges or peripheral areas of knit layers 134 and 135 are depicted as being joined to each other, whereas central areas of knit layers 134 and 135 are depicted as being unjoined to each other. In effect, therefore, knit layers 134 and 135 are separate layers of knitted material, but may be joined at their peripheries. When joined, knit layers 134 and 135 may be joined during the knitting process or following the knitting process.
- an advantage of joining knit layers 134 and 135 relates to retaining the relative positions of knit layers 134 and 135 following the knitting process and during the process of incorporating knitted component into upper 120.
- the peripheral areas of knit layers 134 and 135 may be unjoined or both the peripheral and central areas may be joined.
- knitted component 130 is formed of unitary knit construction and may be substantially seamless, knitted component 130 may include a seam 136 that joins areas of interior knit layer 135 in collar portion 131.
- a first section of interior knit layer 135 is initially formed, then the exterior knit layer 134 is formed, and finally a second section of interior knit layer 135 is formed, all as a one-piece element.
- the two sections of interior knit layer 135 are joined at seam 136.
- the joining of interior knit layer 135 at seam 136 may be performed as at a final stage of the knitting process, or following the knitting process.
- seam 136 may be located in throat portion 132 or heel portion 133, or seam 136 may be located in exterior knit layer 134. Accordingly, in configurations of knitted component 130 that include seam 136, the location of seam 136 may be positioned in various areas of knitted component 130.
- Knitted component 130 may be formed from a single type of yarn that imparts common properties to each of portions 131 -133 and knit layers 134 and 135. In order to vary the properties of knitted component 130, however, different yarns may be utilized in different areas of knitted component 130. That is, portions 131 -133 and knit layers 134 and 135 or different areas of portions 131 -133 and knit layers 134 and 135 may be formed from different yarns to vary the properties between areas of knitted component 130. Moreover, one area of knitted component 130 may be formed from a first type of yarn or combination of yarns that imparts a first set of properties, and another area of knitted component 130 may be formed from a second type of yarn or combination of yarns that imparts a second set of properties.
- Properties may vary throughout knitted component 130, therefore, by selecting specific yarns for different areas of knitted component 130.
- properties that may be varied through choice of yarn include color, pattern, luster, stretch, recovery, loft, hand, moisture absorption, biodegradability, abrasion-resistance, durability, and thermal conductivity.
- two or more yarns may be utilized in combination to take advantage of properties from both yarns, such as when yarns are plated or form different courses in the same area.
- the properties that a particular type of yarn will impart to an area of knitted component 130 partially depend upon the materials that form the various filaments and fibers within the yarn.
- Cotton for example, provides a soft hand, natural aesthetics, and biodegradability.
- Elastane and stretch polyester each provide substantial stretch and recovery, with stretch polyester also providing recyclability.
- Rayon provides high luster and moisture absorption.
- Wool also provides high moisture absorption, in addition to insulating properties and biodegradability.
- Nylon is durable, abrasion-resistant, and has relatively high strength.
- Polyester is a hydrophobic material that also provides relatively high durability. Yarns that incorporate thermoplastic materials may also permit areas of knitted component 130 to be fused or stabilized through the application of heat.
- a yarn forming knitted component 130 may be a monofilament yarn or a multifilament yarn.
- the yarn may also include separate filaments that are each formed of different materials.
- the yarn may include filaments that are each formed of two or more different materials, such as a bi-component yarn with filaments having a sheath-core configuration or two halves formed of different materials. Different degrees of twist and crimping, as well as different deniers, may also affect the properties of knitted component 130. Accordingly, both the materials forming the yarn and other aspects of the yarn may be selected to impart a variety of properties to separate areas of knitted component 130.
- knitted component 130 In addition to the type of yarn that is selected for knitted component 130, the knit structure in knitted component 130 imparts particular properties. As depicted, a majority of knitted component 130 is formed to have a common or single knit structure, which is relatively untextured and may be referred to as a tubular or plain knit. In further configurations, however, knitted component 130 may have a rib knit structure or mesh knit structure, or knitted component 130 may have a hybrid knit structure in which multiple types of knit structures are utilized in one area. In order to vary the properties of knitted component 130, different knit structures may be utilized in different areas of knitted component 130.
- portions 131 -133 and knit layers 134 and 135 or different areas of portions 131 -133 and knit layers 134 and 135 may be formed from different knit structures to vary the properties between areas of knitted component 130.
- one area of knitted component 130 may be formed from a first knit structure or combination of knit structures that imparts a first set of properties
- another area of knitted component 130 may be formed from a second knit structure or combination of knit structures that imparts a second set of properties.
- Properties may vary throughout knitted component 130, therefore, by selecting specific knit structures for different areas of knitted component 130. Examples of properties that may be varied through choice of yarn include pattern, luster, stretch, recovery, loft, hand, moisture absorption, abrasion- resistance, durability, and thermal conductivity.
- Properties may be further varied by selecting both the type of yarn and the knit structure that is utilized in knitted component 130 or areas of knitted component 130.
- various types of yarn By combining various types of yarn with various knit structures, further combinations of properties may be imparted to knitted component 130.
- a first type of yarn and a first knit structure may be utilized in one area of knitted component 130 to provide a set of properties
- a second type of yarn and a second knit structure may be utilized in a different area of knitted component 130 to provide a different set of properties.
- collar portion 131 may incorporate types of yarn and knit structures that impart high stretch
- throat portion 132 may incorporate types of yarn and knit structures that impart low stretch
- exterior knit layer 134 may be formed from types of yarn and knit structures that are durable and impart a particular aesthetic
- interior knit layer 135 may be formed from types of yarn and knit structures that are comfortable and wick moisture away from the wearer. Accordingly, selecting particular combinations of types of yarn and knit structures for each area of knitted component 130 permits each area to have a particular combination of beneficial properties.
- Knitted component 130 which is formed of unitary knit construction. Knitted component 130 may form collar 122 and extend into throat area 124. Knitted component 130 may also extend downward and into heel region 103. Although knitted component may be formed from a single knit layer, knitted component 130 may also have two or more knit layers.
- footwear 100 and knitted component 130 discussed above and depicted in the figures provides one example relating to the structure of footwear 100 and knitted component 130.
- numerous features of footwear 100 and knitted component 130 may vary considerably.
- cover component 140 extends further upward in heel region 103, such that heel portion 133 is either absent or located within cover component 140.
- footwear 100 includes a lace 127 to assist with further tightening of upper 120 around the foot. Lace 127 passes through various apertures in upper 120, extends across throat area 124, and contacts the portion of exterior surface 125 formed by throat portion 132.
- Looped strands 128 extend upward from a lower area of upper 120 and form a plurality of loops, through which lace 127 extends. Further information regarding structures similar to looped strands 128 may be found in U.S. Patent Application Number 13/529,381 , which was filed in the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office on 21 June 2012 and is entitled Footwear Incorporating Looped Tensile Strand Elements, such application being entirely incorporated herein by reference.
- FIG. 12D A further variation of footwear 100 is depicted in Figure 12D as having a configuration that includes a pair of support straps 129 extending outward or upward from the lower area of upper 120.
- One support strap 129 extends over throat area 124 at the interface between forefoot region 101 and midfoot region 102, and the other support strap 129 extends around heel region 103.
- support straps 129 may provide additional stability and ensure that footwear 100 remains properly positioned on the foot.
- FIG.E another example of a support strap 129 extends around collar 122 (i.e., collar portion 131 ) to provide additional support for the ankle.
- lace 127 and looped strands 128 are also incorporated into this configuration to assist with further tightening of upper 120 around the foot.
- knitted component 130 includes a rib knit structure. More particularly, both of knit layers 134 and 135 are formed to have the rib knit structure. As a variation upon this, Figure 13B depicts exterior knit layer 134 as including a rib knit structure, whereas interior knit layer 135 has a plain knit structure. Although not depicted, another configuration may utilize a rib knit structure for exterior knit layer 134, and interior knit layer 135 may include one area with the rib knit structure and another area with the plain knit structure or a mesh knit structure. Further variations in knitted component 130 may relate to the relative sizes of portions 131 -133.
- Figure 13C depicts a configuration where collar portion 131 extends upward to a greater degree and would cover more of an ankle of the wearer.
- heel portion 1 13 is absent from knitted component 130, which may result in the configuration discussed previously for Figure 12A.
- Figure 13E depicts a configuration wherein each of throat portion 132 and heel portion 133 have an increased length.
- Knitted component 130 may have various features that provide additional padding in throat area 124, which may enhance comfort in configurations that include lace 127.
- Figure 14B depicts interior knit layer 135 as having increased thickness
- Figure 14C depicts a foam element 137 that is located between knit layers 134 and 135 in throat portion 132.
- Figure 14D depicts stitching as joining knit layers 134 and 135 in throat portion 132.
- seam 136 joins portions of exterior knit layer 134, rather than exterior layer 135, in collar portion 131.
- knit layers 134 and 135 may be formed of unitary knit construction
- Figure 14F depicts a configuration wherein knit layers 134 and 135 are formed as separate elements that lay against each other.
- knitted component 130 may be formed by hand, the commercial manufacture of multiple knitted components 130 will generally be performed by knitting machines.
- knitting involves forming courses and wales of intermeshed loops of a yarn or multiple yarns.
- knitting machines may be programmed to mechanically-manipulate one or more yarns into the configuration of knitted component 130. That is, knitted component 130 may be formed by mechanically-manipulating one or more yarns to form a one-piece textile element that has the shape and features of knitted component 130.
- knitted component may be formed of unitary knit construction utilizing a knitting machine.
- knitted component 130 may be formed through a variety of different knitting processes and using a variety of different knitting machines
- circular knitting i.e., the use of a circular knitting machine
- circular knitting involves forming a plurality of courses and wales.
- courses are circular rows of loops that extend entirely around collar portion 131 and across the widths of throat portion 132 and heel portion 133.
- Wales are columns of loops that extend perpendicular to the courses and from collar portion 131 to each of throat portion 132 and heel portion 133. That is, the courses in knitted component 130 may extend from collar portion 131 to either of throat portion 132 and heel portion 133.
- knitting processes include wide tube circular knitting, narrow tube circular knitting, narrow tube circular knit jacquard, single knit circular knit jacquard, double knit circular knit jacquard, warp knit jacquard, and flat knitting, for example.
- Manufacturing knitted component 130 through circular knitting provides advantages of simplicity and efficient manner. Other advantages or combinations of advantages may, however, be gained through utilizing another of the various knitting processes mentioned above. For example, flat knitting may be utilized to form knitted component 130 with different stretch and recovery properties, apertures within the knit structure that enhance breathability, and various levels of durability. Accordingly, different advantages or features may be gained through selection of the knitting process utilized to form knitted component 130.
- FIG. 13D a pattern 150 for forming knitted component 130 is illustrated.
- Pattern 150 includes a first collar section 151 , a throat section 152, and a second collar section 153. Whereas collar sections 151 and 153 represent areas of pattern 150 that form collar portion 131 in knitted component 130, throat section 152 represents an area of pattern 150 that forms throat portion 132.
- pattern 150 also includes a first interior layer section 154, an exterior layer section 155, and a second interior layer section 156. Whereas interior layer sections 154 and 156 represent areas of pattern 150 that form interior knit layer 135 in knitted component 130, exterior layer section 155 represents an area of pattern 150 that forms exterior knit layer 135. Due to overlap between areas of sections 151 -156, sections 151 - 153 are identified on one side of pattern 150 and sections 154-156 are identified on an opposite side of pattern 150. Although pattern 150 provides a suitable pattern for forming knitted component 130 through a circular knitting process, other patterns may also be utilized.
- pattern 150 also includes various additional features, including a first seam edge 157, a pair of side edges 158, a second seam edge 159, and a plurality of courses 160.
- seam edges 157 and 159 represent portions of pattern 150 located and joined at seam 136.
- Side edges 158 are primarily located in throat section 152 and represent the edges or peripheral areas of knit layers 134 and 135 that are joined to each other in throat section 152.
- courses 160 represent the various courses in knitted component 130, which are rows of loops that extend entirely around collar portion 131 (i.e., circular courses) and across the widths of throat portion 132 (i.e., non-circular or linear courses).
- a dashed line 161 extends across first collar section 151 at the interface between sections 154 and 155 and represents the position of ankle opening 123.
- Pattern 150 is a graphical representation of data that is processed by a circular knitting machine to form knitted component 130.
- the knitting machine reads data associated with each course 160, starting at first seam edge 157 and continuing successively downward to second seam edge 159. Initially, therefore, the knitting machine reads data associated with the course 160 located at first seam edge 157 and forms a circular course based upon that data. In addition to identifying the particular knit structures that are formed, the data also identifies the particular yarns that form the knit structures. Once this data is processed, the knitting machine mechanically- manipulates the yarns to form a first course of knitted component 130.
- pattern 150 identifies the first course 160 (i.e., the course 160 located at first seam edge 157) as being in first collar section 151 and first interior layer section 154.
- the first course formed by the knitting machine will form a portion of knitted component 130 located in collar portion 131 and interior knit layer 135, and the first course may be held on a dial of the knitting machine.
- the knitting machine continues knitting circular courses, each of which are located in collar portion 131 and interior knit layer 135.
- the knitting machine After knitting a defined number of courses, the knitting machine reads data from pattern 150 associated with courses 160 that are in first collar section 151 and exterior layer section 155. As such, the knitting machine has transitioned to forming circular courses of knitted component 150 located in collar portion 131 and exterior knit layer 134.
- the knitting machine reads data from pattern
- the knitting machine reads data from pattern 150 associated with courses 160 that are in throat section 152 and second interior layer section 156. As such, the knitting machine has transitioned to forming courses of knitted component 130 located in throat portion 132 and interior knit layer 135. These courses are also non- circular or linear and only extend between the edges or peripheral areas of throat portion 132. As the knitting machine forms these courses, the knitting machine also joins the edges of knit layers 134 and 135 in throat portion 132.
- the knitting machine reads data from pattern
- pattern 150 identifies the final course 160 (i.e., the course 160 located at second seam edge 159) as being in second collar section 153 and second interior layer section 156.
- the first course may be joined to the final course, thereby forming seam 136. That is, the first course, which was held on the dial throughout the knitting process, may be joined to the final course to form seam 136.
- seam 136 may be formed by hand or through a stitching process, or a flat seam or flat stitch may extend over the seam 136 stitch to provide a more finished appearance.
- the circular knitting machine may be modified to raise and lower the dial, which holds the first course formed in knitted component 130. Additionally, a blower may be utilized to ensure that knitted component 130 remains properly located within the circular knitting machine during the knitting process.
- the circular knitting process forms knitted component 130 by (a) forming knit layers 134 and 135 to be substantially coextensive layers and (b) joining peripheral areas of knit layers 134 and 135 to each other, particularly in throat portion 132.
- knitted component 130 is incorporated into upper 120 such that knitted component 130 forms collar 122 and extends through a portion of, possibly a majority of, a length of throat area 124. Either stitching, adhesive bonding, or thermal bonding may be used to join knitted component 130 with cover component 140.
- Tubular structure 170 has a generally cylindrical configuration and includes an exterior knit layer 171 and an interior knit layer 172. Each of knit layers 171 and 172 also have the generally cylindrical configuration and extend throughout the height of tubular structure 170 and entirely around the circumference of tubular structure 170. Whereas exterior knit layer 171 forms an outer surface of tubular structure 170, interior knit layer 172 forms an inner surface of tubular structure 170.
- tubular structure 170 is cut into two separate portions, as depicted in Figure 17, with one of the portions being knitted component 130. That is, knitted component 130 may be cut or otherwise separated or removed from tubular structure 170. When formed through this process, some edges of knitted component 130 may not have a finished configuration and may include yarn ends. In order to prevent unraveling of these edges, stitching or bonding may be utilized. Moreover, knitted component 130 may include a fusible or thermoplastic yarn that melts upon the application of heat to prevent unraveling.
- a second knitted component 130 may be removed from the lower portion of tubular structure 170 and incorporated into a separate article of footwear. Multiple knitted components 130 may, therefore, be formed from a single tubular structure 170.
- tubular structure 170 is depicted in Figure 18 as including a cut line 173, which may be a visual guide that assists with accurately removing knitted component 130 from tubular structure 170.
- cut line 173 may be an area of tubular structure 170 that has a different type of stitch or different color of yarn. Cut line 173 may also be an area of tubular structure 170 that is formed from a soluble or meltable yarn that dissolves or softens in the presence of a solvent (e.g., water) or heat to assist with removing knitted component 130 from tubular structure 170.
- a second cut line 173 for separating a second knitted component 130 from tubular structure 170 may also be present.
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- Materials Engineering (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
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- Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (6)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
BR112015000803-8A BR112015000803B1 (en) | 2012-11-20 | 2013-11-19 | FOOTWEAR ARTICLE INCORPORATING A KNITTED COMPONENT WITH PIPE AND PASSAGE PORTIONS AND METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME |
JP2015543105A JP6288725B2 (en) | 2012-11-20 | 2013-11-19 | Footwear upper incorporating knit components in collar and throat |
CN201380036449.7A CN104486959B (en) | 2012-11-20 | 2013-11-19 | Comprise and there is collar part and the footwear uppers of knitting member that footwear throat divides |
KR1020147036252A KR101668942B1 (en) | 2012-11-20 | 2013-11-19 | Footwear upper incorporating a knitted component with collar and throat portions |
EP13814673.3A EP2922434B1 (en) | 2012-11-20 | 2013-11-19 | Footwear upper incorporating a knitted component with collar and throat portions |
HK15107916.9A HK1207265A1 (en) | 2012-11-20 | 2015-08-17 | Footwear upper incorporating a knitted component with collar and throat portions |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
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US13/681,842 US10182617B2 (en) | 2012-11-20 | 2012-11-20 | Footwear upper incorporating a knitted component with collar and throat portions |
US13/681,842 | 2012-11-20 |
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EP (1) | EP2922434B1 (en) |
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
TW201434407A (en) | 2014-09-16 |
KR101668942B1 (en) | 2016-10-24 |
BR112015000803B1 (en) | 2020-10-06 |
BR112015000803A2 (en) | 2017-06-27 |
KR20150016976A (en) | 2015-02-13 |
AR093535A1 (en) | 2015-06-10 |
CN104486959A (en) | 2015-04-01 |
EP2922434A1 (en) | 2015-09-30 |
EP2922434B1 (en) | 2020-01-08 |
US20140137433A1 (en) | 2014-05-22 |
JP2015535444A (en) | 2015-12-14 |
US10182617B2 (en) | 2019-01-22 |
CN104486959B (en) | 2016-12-28 |
JP6288725B2 (en) | 2018-03-07 |
HK1207265A1 (en) | 2016-01-29 |
TWI644630B (en) | 2018-12-21 |
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