WO2014053503A2 - Agent permettant de modifier la couleur des fibres de kératine comprenant un corps gras et polymère modificateur de rhéologie dans un système d'émulsion - Google Patents

Agent permettant de modifier la couleur des fibres de kératine comprenant un corps gras et polymère modificateur de rhéologie dans un système d'émulsion Download PDF

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WO2014053503A2
WO2014053503A2 PCT/EP2013/070472 EP2013070472W WO2014053503A2 WO 2014053503 A2 WO2014053503 A2 WO 2014053503A2 EP 2013070472 W EP2013070472 W EP 2013070472W WO 2014053503 A2 WO2014053503 A2 WO 2014053503A2
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weight
agent
chosen
color
agent according
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PCT/EP2013/070472
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WO2014053503A3 (fr
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Mark BENN
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L'oreal
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Priority claimed from US13/633,219 external-priority patent/US8721741B2/en
Priority claimed from US13/633,225 external-priority patent/US8721742B2/en
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to EP13773220.2A priority Critical patent/EP2903585A2/fr
Publication of WO2014053503A2 publication Critical patent/WO2014053503A2/fr
Publication of WO2014053503A3 publication Critical patent/WO2014053503A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
    • A61K2800/4322—Direct dyes in preparations for temporarily coloring the hair further containing an oxidizing agent
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
    • A61K2800/4324—Direct dyes in preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an agent for altering the color of keratinous substrates, including human keratin fibers such as the hair.
  • the agent for altering the color of keratin fibers comprises a fatty substance, a rheology modifying polymer, direct dyes, optionally, oxidative dyes and optionally, an oxidizing agent.
  • Conventional hair coloring products include permanent hair dyeing products, also known as oxidation dyeing, which use the combination of compositions containing oxidative dye precursors, also known as primary intermediates or oxidation bases, and oxidizing products containing oxidizing agents such as peroxide and persulfate compounds, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.
  • the oxidation dye precursors comprise oxidation bases chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines , ortho- or para-aminophenols , and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give access to colored species via a process of oxidative condensation.
  • the shades obtained with these oxidation bases may often be varied by combining them with at least one coupler chosen, for example, from aromatic meta-diamines , meta- aminophenols , meta-diphenols , and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.
  • couplers chosen, for example, from aromatic meta-diamines , meta- aminophenols , meta-diphenols , and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.
  • the variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers can allow a wide range of colors to be obtained.
  • Oxidative coloring compositions typically contain aqueous ammonia as an alkalizing agent and for activating the oxidizing agent. These alkalizing agents also cause the hair shaft to swell, thus allowing the small oxidative dye molecules to penetrate the cuticle and cortex before the oxidation condensation process is completed. The resulting larger-sized colored complexes from the oxidative reaction are then trapped inside the hair fiber, thereby permanently altering the color of the hair.
  • aqueous ammonia as an alkalizing agent and for activating the oxidizing agent.
  • These alkalizing agents also cause the hair shaft to swell, thus allowing the small oxidative dye molecules to penetrate the cuticle and cortex before the oxidation condensation process is completed.
  • the resulting larger-sized colored complexes from the oxidative reaction are then trapped inside the hair fiber, thereby permanently altering the color of the hair.
  • the use of ammonia may affect the user, not only because of the undesirable odor of ammonia, but because it may also pose greater risks of intole
  • direct dyeing it is also known practice to dye keratin fibers by direct dyeing.
  • the process conventionally used in direct dyeing comprises applying to the keratin fibers direct dyes, which are colored and coloring molecules that have affinity for the fibers, leaving the dyes to act in order to allow the colored molecules to penetrate, by diffusion, into the hair, and then rinsing the fibers .
  • direct dye compositions may be used without the obligatory presence of an oxidizing agent.
  • these direct dyeing operations may be performed repeatedly without degrading the keratin fiber.
  • the leave-on time of a direct dye composition conventionally ranges from 15 to 45 minutes, depending on the nature of the fiber (sensitized or non-sensitized) and the nature of the dye used.
  • a great deal of research has been conducted on reducing the leave-on time of dye compositions without, however, increasing the concentration of the constituents, while at the same time maintaining a good level of dyeing, i.e., good dyeing power and good fastness of the color with respect to external agents and over time.
  • compositions can be provided in the form of a liquid emulsion, such as a liquid-lotion, liquid-gel, liquid-cream, or a cream emulsion, such as a thick cream or gel-cream, or a foam or mousse wherein the liquid emulsion form has a thinner consistency than the cream emulsion form and is typically packaged in a bottle.
  • a liquid emulsion such as a liquid-lotion, liquid-gel, liquid-cream, or a cream emulsion, such as a thick cream or gel-cream, or a foam or mousse
  • the liquid emulsion form is generally employed when the entire head of hair is to be colored or when only one color is desired since the dye composition spreads easily, allowing for greater coverage while the cream emulsion form can be employed for dyeing the entire head of hair and for highlighting or lightening only certain sections of the hair.
  • the objective of the present invention is to obtain novel compositions for oxidatively dyeing the hair.
  • Another objective of the invention is to obtain hair coloring compositions that have a unique, non-drip consistency or rheology and yet spreads easily on the hair while imparting other advantages to the hair such as conditioning, a healthy appearance, shine and less damage to the hair.
  • the present invention is drawn to an agent for altering the color of keratin fibers comprising:
  • (B) optionally, an oxidizing composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one oxidizing agent.
  • the present invention is also drawn to a process of coloring keratinous fibers, comprising applying onto the keratin fibers the above-disclosed agent for altering the color of keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising applying said agent onto the fibers; and leaving said agent on the keratin fibers for a period of time sufficient to color the fibers.
  • At least one as used herein means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations .
  • Keratinous fiber may be chosen from, for example, human hair.
  • Form from means obtained from chemical reaction of, wherein “chemical reaction,” includes spontaneous chemical reactions and induced chemical reactions.
  • the phrase “formed from” is open ended and does not limit the components of the composition to those listed, e.g., as component (i) and component (ii) .
  • the phrase “formed from” does not limit the order of adding components to the composition or require that the listed components ⁇ e.g., components (i) and (ii) ) be added to the composition before any other components.
  • Hydrocarbons include alkanes, alkenes, and alkynes, wherein the alkanes comprise at least one carbon, and the alkenes and alkynes each comprise at least two carbons; further wherein the hydrocarbons may be chosen from linear hydrocarbons, branched hydrocarbons, and cyclic hydrocarbons; further wherein the hydrocarbons may optionally be substituted; and further wherein the hydrocarbons may optionally further comprise at least one heteroatom intercalated in the hydrocarbon chain.
  • Silicone compound includes, for example, silica, silanes, silazanes, siloxanes, and organosiloxanes ; and refers to a compound comprising at least one silicon; wherein the silicone compound may be chosen from linear silicone compounds, branched silicone compounds, and cyclic silicone compounds; further wherein the silicone compound may optionally be substituted; and further wherein the silicone compound may optionally further comprise at least one heteroatom intercalated in the silicone chain, wherein the at least one heteroatom is different from the at least one silicon.
  • Substituted means comprising at least one substituent.
  • substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups.
  • the substituent ( s ) may be further substituted.
  • Polymers include homopolymers and copolymers formed from at least two different types of monomers .
  • compositions or agent for altering the color of keratin fibers of the present invention is either completely free of ammonia (including ammonium ions) or contains no appreciable amount of ammonia (including ammonium ions), for example, no more than 1% by weight, or no more than 0.5% by weight, or no more than 0.3% by weight, or no more than 0.1% by weight, based on the weight of the compositions or agent for altering the color of keratinous substrates.
  • the agent for altering the color of keratin fibers had improved dyeing properties.
  • the agent for altering the color of keratin fibers provided coloring with good strength and/or intensity and/or good uniformity of the color along the fiber between the tip and the root of the hair (also called the selectivity of coloring) and/or good chromaticity .
  • the agent for altering the color of keratin fibers can be applied without difficulty onto keratin fibers without running or dripping.
  • the color base composition or the color base composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty substance having a viscosity of greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C.
  • the viscosity of the at least one fatty substance having a viscosity of greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C of the present invention is measured as kinematic viscosity according to the ASTM D 445 method and may range from between greater than about 50 to about 100 mm 2 /s at 40°C, preferably from about 50 to about 100 mm 2 /s at 40°C.
  • the at least one fatty substance having a viscosity of greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C may be chosen from oils such as mineral oil (kinematic viscosity as measured by the ASTM D 445 method in units of mm 2 /s at 40°C) .
  • a preferred fatty substance having a viscosity of greater than 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C is a mineral oil having a viscosity ranging from between about 63 to about 70 mm 2 /s at 40°C, commercially available from the supplier Sonneborn under the tradename Kaydol®® Heavy White Mineral Oil or from the supplier Exxonmobil Chemical under the tradename PrimolTM 352.
  • the at least one fatty substance having a viscosity of greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C may also be referred to hereinafter as "high viscosity mineral oil.”
  • the color base composition of the present invention may further comprise an additional fatty substance other than the fatty substance having a viscosity of greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C.
  • "Fatty substance” means an organic compound insoluble in water at normal temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (750 mmHg) (solubility below 5% and such as below 1% and further such as below 0.1%) .
  • Fatty substances have in their structure a chain of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon chain having at least 6 carbon atoms.
  • fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents in the same conditions of temperature and pressure, for example in chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • Fatty substances are, for example, chosen from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acid, esters of fatty alcohol, fatty acids, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic non-silicone oils, non-silicone waxes and s ilicones .
  • the alcohols and esters have at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, for example, with at least one hydroxyl group (for example 1 to 4) . If they are unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three, conjugated or unconjugated, carbon-carbon double bonds .
  • alkanes in some embodiments, these have from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and are linear or branched, optionally cyclic.
  • alkanes can be chosen from hexane and dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane .
  • Non-limiting examples of non-silicone oils usable in the composition of the disclosure include: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene ; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or for example sunflower oil, maize oil, soya oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names MIGLYOL® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms, linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin
  • fluorinated, partially hydrocarbon oils as fluorinated oils, non-limiting examples include perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 , 3- dimethylcyclohexane , sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI” and "FLUTEC® PC3" by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals ; perfluoro- 1 , 2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®” and "PF 5060®” by the 3M Company, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®” by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; derivatives of perfluoromorpholine, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by
  • the fatty alcohols usable as fatty substances in the composition of the disclosure include, but are not limited to, non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
  • cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture cetylstearyl alcohol
  • octyldodecanol 2- butyloctanol
  • 2-hexyldecanol 2-undecylpentadecanol
  • oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol linoleic alcohol.
  • the exemplary non-silicone wax or waxes that can be used in the composition of the disclosure are chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswaxes, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina) ; other waxes or waxy raw materials usable according to the disclosure are, for example, marine waxes such as that sold by the company SOPHIM under reference M82, waxes of polyethylene or of polyolefins in general.
  • the exemplary fatty acid esters are the esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols , the total number of carbons of the esters being, for example, greater than or equal to 10.
  • esters can be made of the esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and the esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 -C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.
  • esters include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di- n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate ; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate ; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate ; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisoteary
  • esters include ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate.
  • composition can also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and di-esters of sugars of C6-C30, such as C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • “Sugar” as used in the disclosure means oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds that possess several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and having at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, for example alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose .
  • esters of sugars and of fatty acids can, for example, be chosen from the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30, such as C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three, conjugated or uncon ugated, carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to at least one embodiment can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters , polyesters and mixtures thereof.
  • esters can be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates , or mixtures thereof such as the oleo-palmitate , oleo-stearate , palmito-stearate mixed esters.
  • the mono- and di-esters can be used, and such as the mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate , linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose.
  • esters or of mixtures of esters of sugar of fatty acid include: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company Crodesta, denoting respectively the palmito-stearates of sucrose formed from 73% of monoester and 27% of di- and tri-ester, from 61% of monoester and 39% of di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, from 52% of monoester and 48% of di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, from 45% of monoester and 55% of di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, from 39% of monoester and 61% of di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, and the mono-laurate of sucrose; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters for example with the reference B370 and corresponding to the behenate of sucrose formed from 20% of monoester and 80% of di-triester-polyester
  • the silicones usable in the composition of the present disclosure include but are not limited to volatile or nonvolatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, modified or not with organic groups, having a viscosity from 5 x 10 ⁇ 6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C, such as from 1 x 10 ⁇ 5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the silicones usable according to the disclosure can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • the silicone is chosen from the polydialkylsiloxanes , such as the polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) , and the organo-modified polysiloxanes having at least one functional group selected from the poly (alkoxylated) groups, the amine groups and the alkoxy groups.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • organo-modified polysiloxanes having at least one functional group selected from the poly (alkoxylated) groups, the amine groups and the alkoxy groups.
  • organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in the work of Walter NOLL “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicones are, for example, chosen from those with a boiling point between 60°C. and 260°C, and for further examples, chosen from:
  • the cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7, such as from 4 to 5 silicon atoms can be, for example, the octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting mentions can also be made of the cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxanes/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE, of the formula V:
  • Non-limiting mentions can further be made of the mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of
  • Suitable volatile silicones include the linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and with a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10 ⁇ 6 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32— ODD BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.
  • These silicones are, for example, chosen from the polydialkylsiloxanes, such as the polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • the silicone gums usable according to the disclosure are, for example, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes with high number-average molecular weights between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or mixed in a solvent.
  • This solvent can be chosen from the volatile silicones, the polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, the polyphenylmethyls iloxane (PPMS) oils, the isoparaffins , the polyisobutylenes , methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane and mixtures thereof.
  • Products usable according to the disclosure are, for example, mixtures such as: mixtures formed from a chain end hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) , such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC, said product being a gum SF 30 corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500, 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMS of different viscosities, for example, of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company GENE
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 as defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s and an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5 x 10 ⁇ 6 m 2 /s.
  • This product for example, has 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of oil SF 96.
  • organopolysiloxane resins usable according to the disclosure include but are not limited to crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R2Si02/2 ' R3SiOi/2, RSi03/2 and Si04/2
  • R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group such as methyl .
  • organomodified silicones usable according to the disclosure include but are not limited to silicones as defined previously, having in their structure at least one organofunctional group fixed by a hydrocarbon group.
  • the organomodified silicones can be polydiaryl siloxanes, such as polydiphenylsiloxanes , and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized by the aforementioned organofunctional groups.
  • the polyalkarylsiloxanes are, for example, chosen from the polydimethyl /methylphenyls iloxanes , the polydimethyl /diphenylsiloxanes , linear and/or branched, with viscosity ranging from 1 x 10 ⁇ 5 to 5 x 10 2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • non-limiting mentins can be made of the products marketed under the following names: the SILBIONE® oils of series 70 641 from RHODIA; the oils of the series RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 from RHODIA; the oil DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID from DOW CORNING; the silicones of the PK series from BAYER such as the product PK20; the silicones of the series PN, PH from BAYER such as the products PN1000 and PH1000; certain oils of the SF series from GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.
  • organomodified silicones non-limiting mention can be made of the polyorganosiloxanes having: polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups optionally with C6-C 24 alkyl groups such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 from the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C 12 ) -methicone copolyol marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2 5200; substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products marketed under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company DOW CORNING.
  • polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups optionally with C6-C 24 alkyl groups
  • the substituted amine groups are, for example, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT.
  • the fatty substance is chosen from compounds that are liquid or pasty at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the fatty substance is a compound that is liquid at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure .
  • the fatty substance is, for example, chosen from the lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acid, esters of fatty alcohol, and oils such as non-silicone mineral, vegetable and synthetic oils, including silicones.
  • the fatty substance is chosen from non-silicone compounds such as liquid paraffin, polydecenes, liquid esters of fatty acids and of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty substance is chosen from alkanes, hydrocarbons and silicones.
  • the at least one additional fatty substance of the present invention may be chosen from the above disclosed fatty substances other than the fatty substance having a viscosity of greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40 °C.
  • the at least one additional fatty substance has a viscosity of about 50 mm 2 /s or less at 40°C.
  • a preferred additional fatty substance is mineral oil having a viscosity of about 50 mm 2 /s or less at 40°C, for example, ranging from between about 14 to about 30 mm 2 /s at 40 °C and commercially available from several suppliers such as Sonneborn under the tradename Blandol, Armedsa under the tradename Aemoil M-302CG and Exxonmobil Chemical under the tradename Marcol 82.
  • the at least one additional fatty substance of the present invention may be employed in an amount of at least about 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the color base composition.
  • the amount of the at least one additional fatty substance may be from about 1% to about 40% by weight, or such as from about 5% to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the color base composition.
  • the amount of the at least one additional fatty substance may be from 0% to about 75% by weight, or such as from about 5% to about 70% by weight, or such as from about 5% to about 60% by weight, or such as from about 5% to about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the color base compos ition .
  • the at least one fatty substance having a viscosity of greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C is present in an amount of at least about 5% by weight, or from about 5% to about 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the color base composition.
  • the at least one fatty substance having a viscosity of greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C may be employed in an amount ranging from about 10% to less than about 50% by weight, preferably from about 10% to less than about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the color base composition.
  • the total amount of fatty substances is up to less than about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the color base composition.
  • the total amount of fatty substances comprising the at least one fatty substance having a viscosity of greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C and optionally, the at least one additional fatty substance, is at least about 5% by weight, and may range from about 5% to less than about 50% by weight, preferably from about 10% to less than about 50% by weight, or such as from about 10% to about 45% by weight, or such as from about 10% to about 35% by weight, or such as from about 10% to about 30% by weight, or such as from about 10% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the color base compos ition .
  • the amount of the at least one additional fatty substance may be from 0% to about 45% by weight, or such as from about 5% to about 40% by weight, or such as from about 10% to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the color base compos ition .
  • the at least one fatty substance having a viscosity of greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C may also be employed in an amount of from about 50% to about 80% by weight, preferably from about 50% to about 70% by weight, or at about 50% by weight, or at about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the color base composition.
  • the at least one additional fatty substance may be employed in an amount such that the total amount of fatty substances is not more than about 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the color base composition.
  • the total amount of fatty substances comprising the at least one fatty substance having a viscosity of greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C and optionally, the at least one additional fatty substance, is at least about 50% by weight and may be employed in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 80% by weight, preferably, from about 50% to about 70% by weight, more preferably, from about 50% to about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the color base compos ition .
  • the color base composition is in the form of a liquid emulsion or a liquid-cream emulsion or a cream emulsion.
  • the viscosity and/or amount of the at least one additional fatty substance are such that the color base composition is in the form of a liquid emulsion or a liquid-cream emulsion or a cream emulsion .
  • the color base compositions of the present invention contain at least one fatty substance having a viscosity ranging from greater than about 50 to about 100 mm 2 /s at 40°C and at least one additional fatty substance having a viscosity of about 50 mm 2 /s or less at 40°C.
  • the at least one additional fatty substance is introduced into the color base composition of the present invention after an amount of the fatty substance having a viscosity of greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C has been combined with the rheology modifying polymer of the present invention .
  • the at least one fatty substance having a viscosity of greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C, the at least one additional fatty substance of the present invention and mixtures thereof may also be present in the optional oxidizing composition of the present invention.
  • the at least one rheology modifying polymer of the present invention is selected from a crosslinked acrylate polymer in aqueous dispersion.
  • the crosslinked acrylate polymer in aqueous dispersion is a polymer that is selected from crosslinked (meth) acrylic acid/ C1-C6 alkyl acrylate copolymers and has three structural units or is polymerized from a monomer mixture comprising three polymerizable monomeric components: one or more carboxylic acid monomers and salts thereof having 3 to 10 carbon atoms, one or more vinyl monomers, and one or more mono- or polyunsaturated monomers.
  • the amount of the carboxylic acid monomers is generally from about 20 % to 80 % by weight in one aspect, from about 25 % to about 70 % by weight in another aspect and from about 35 % to about 65 % by weight in a further aspect, based upon the total weight of the monomers.
  • the amount of the vinyl monomers is generally from about 80 % to about 15 % by weight in one aspect, from about 75 % to about 25 % by weight in another aspect, and from about 65 % to about 35 % by weight in a further aspect based upon the total weight of the monomers.
  • the third component the one or more mono- or polyunsaturated monomer, is utilized to generate a partially or substantially crosslinked three-dimensional polymeric network.
  • polyunsaturated is meant that the crosslinking monomer contains at least two polymerizable double bonds that are reactive with the foregoing unsaturated carboxylic acid containing monomers and the vinyl monomers.
  • (meth) acrylic acid and “ (meth) acrylate” are meant to include the corresponding methyl derivatives of acrylic acid and the corresponding alkyl acrylate
  • (meth) acrylic) " acid refers to acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid
  • (meth) acrylate” refers to alkyl acrylate and/or alkyl methacrylate.
  • the third component can be used in an amount from about 0.01 to about 5 % by weight in one aspect, from about 0.03 to about 3 % by weight in another aspect, and from about 0.05 to about 1 % by weight in a further aspect, based upon the total weight of all of the monomer components.
  • the cross-linked acrylate polymer is is slightly cross-linked.
  • the term "slightly cross-linked” refers to a partially crosslinked three-dimensional polymeric network .
  • the cross-linked acrylate polymer is alkali-swellable .
  • alkali-swellable refers to a polymer that when introduced to a solution, imparts little or no viscosity, but upon adjusting the pH to mildly acidic, neutral, or mildly basic conditions, a measurable increase in viscosity is observed, i.e., adding an alkali or neutralizing agent to a solution containing an alkali swellable polymer results in the development of viscosity.
  • alkali-swellable as used herein may also refer to the expansion of the polymer molecules upon neutralization as a result of charge repulsion of the anionic carboxylate groups of the polymer.
  • a preferred rheology modifying polymer of the present invention is a cross-linked copolymer of acrylic or methacrylic acid and/or one or more of their C1-C6 alkyl esters.
  • a particularly preferred rheology modifying polymer of the present invention is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate crosslinked copolymer.
  • a preferred example of the methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate crosslinked copolymer of the present invention is a slightly cross-linked, alkali-swellable acrylate polymer known by the INCI name acrylates copolymer and commercially available from the supplier Lubrizol, under the tradename Carbopol® Aqua SF-1 as an aqueous dispersion comprising about 30% by weight of total solids.
  • Carbopol® Aqua SF-1 has a carboxyl functionality in its protonated form.
  • This copolymer belongs to a class of synthetic rheology modifiers that include carboxyl functional alkali-swellable and alkali-soluble thickeners (ASTs) .
  • thickener polymers are prepared from the free-radical polymerization of acrylic acid alone or in combination with other ethylenically unsaturated monomers.
  • the polymers can be synthesized by solvent/precipitation as well as emulsion polymerization techniques.
  • Another particularly preferred rheology modifying polymer of the present invention is a cross-linked anionic acrylate polymer.
  • Said cross-linked anionic acrylate polymer may be contained in an aqueous dispersion comprising about 32% by weight of total solids.
  • examples of the cross-linked anionic acrylate polymer of the present invention include, but are not limited to, the polymer known by the INCI name acrylates crosspolymer-4 and commercially available from the supplier Lubrizol, under the tradename Carbopol® Aqua SF-2, as an aqueous dispersion comprising about 32% by weight of total solids.
  • Crosspolymer-4 may also be described as a copolymer of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of its simple esters, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
  • the rheology modifying polymer of the present invention is selected from a slightly cross-linked, alkali-swellable acrylate polymer contained in an aqueous dispersion from comprising about 30% by weight of total solids .
  • the rheology modifying polymer of the present invention is selected from a cross-linked anionic acrylate polymer contained in an aqueous dispersion from comprising about 32% by weight of total solids.
  • the rheology modifying polymer of the present invention is chosen from a slightly cross-linked, alkali-swellable acrylate polymer contained in an aqueous dispersion from comprising about 30% by weight of total solids, a cross-linked anionic acrylate polymer contained in an aqueous dispersion from comprising about 32% by weight of total solids, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one rheology modifying polymer of the present invention is neutralized in a water or an aqueous solution with a neutralizing agent before the polymer is added into the color base composition of the present invention.
  • the at least one rheology modifying polymer of the present invention is neutralized with a neutralizing agent at the time of addition of the polymer into the color base composition of the present invention .
  • Suitable neutralizing agents are chosen from organic amines, organic amine salts, and ammonium salts, particularly from ethylamines, ethyleneamines , alkanolamines , cyclic amines and other cyclic compounds, saturated or unsaturated, having one or more nitrogen atoms within the ring.
  • the neutralizing agent is employed in an amount sufficient to neutralize the rheology modifying polymer of the present invention in a water or an aqueous solution such that the solution becomes clear.
  • the at least one rheology modifying polymer of the present invention may be employed in an amount of from about 0.3% to about 3% by weight, such as from about 0.45% to about 2.75% by weight, further such as from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, or such as about 2.55%, or such as about 1.95% by weight, based on the total weight of the color base composition of the present invention.
  • the at least one fatty substance having a viscosity of greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C and the at least one rheology modifying polymer are present in the color base composition such that the weight ratio of said fatty substance to the rheology modifying polymer ranges from about 25:1 to about 3:1, or such as from about 22.5:1 to about 5:1, or such as from about 20:1 to about 10:1, and preferably from about 15:1 to about 10:1, or such as from about 10:1 to about 5:1.
  • the alkalizing agent of the present invention may be chosen from organic amines, organic amine salts, ammonium salts, inorganic bases, and hydroxide base compounds.
  • the organic amines may be chosen from the ones having a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, such as less than 10 or such as less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of highest basicity.
  • Organic amines may be chosen from organic amines comprising one or two primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functions, and at least one linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups bearing at least one hydroxyl radical.
  • Organic amines may also be chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or trialkanolamines , comprising one to three identical or different C 1 -C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines , quinoline, aniline and cyclic amines, such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine, imidazole, imidazolidine , imidazolidinine , morpholine, pyridine, piperidine, pyrimidine, piperazine, triazine and derivatives thereof.
  • alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or trialkanolamines , comprising one to three identical or different C 1 -C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines , quinoline, aniline and cyclic amines, such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine, imidazole, imidazolidine , imid
  • the compounds of the alkanolamine type include but not limited to: monoethanolamine (also known as monoethanolamine or MEA) , diethanolamine , triethanolamine , monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N- dimethylaminoethanolamine , 2-amino-2 -methyl-1-propanol , triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l , 3-propanediol, 3-amino- 1 , 2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l, 2 -propanediol , 2-amino-2- methyl-l-propanol , and tris (hydroxymethylamino) methane .
  • monoethanolamine also known as monoethanolamine or MEA
  • MEA monoethanolamine
  • diethanolamine triethanolamine
  • monoisopropanolamine diisopropanolamine
  • N- dimethylaminoethanolamine 2-amino-2 -methyl-1
  • W is chosen from C 1 -C6 alkylene residues optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C6 alkyl radical;
  • Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt which may be identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, C 1 -C6 alkyl radicals, C 1 -C6 hydroxyalkyl radicals, and C 1 -C6 aminoalkyl radicals.
  • Examples of such amines include but not limited to: 1 , 3-diaminopropane , 1, 3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, and spermidine.
  • the organic amines are chosen from amino acids.
  • the amino acids that may be used may be of natural or synthetic origin, in L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen from, for instance, carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid, and phosphoric acid functions.
  • the amino acids may be in their neutral or ionic form.
  • the amino acids may be chosen from basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.
  • Such basic amino acids may be chosen from those corresponding to formula (A) below:
  • R is a group chosen from:
  • the compounds corresponding to formula (A) may be chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, and citrulline .
  • Amino acids that may be used in the present disclosure include but not limited to: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine , proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine.
  • the organic amines are chosen from basic amino acids.
  • the amino acids may be chosen from, for instance, arginine, lysine and histidine, or mixtures thereof.
  • the organic amines are chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, non-limiting mention may also be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, 1 , 2 , 4-triazole , tetrazole, and benzimidazole.
  • the organic amines are chosen from amino acid dipeptides .
  • Amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present disclosure include but not limited to: carnosine, anserine, and baleine.
  • the organic amines are chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function.
  • Organic amines of this type that may be used in the present disclosure include, besides arginine that has already been mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1, 1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1- diethylguanidine , glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N- amidinoalanine , 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid, and 2- ( [amino (imino) methyl] amino) ethane-l-sulfonic acid.
  • the organic amines are chosen from alkanolamines .
  • the organic amines are chosen from ethanolamine , triethanoloamine , 2-amino-2-methyl-l- propanol, and mixtures thereof, or preferably from 2-amino-2- methyl-l-propanol and monoethanolamine , or mixtures thereof.
  • the organic amine is monoethanolamine.
  • the alkalizing agent may be an organic amine in salt form.
  • organic amine salt as used herein, means organic or mineral salts of an organic amine as described above.
  • the organic salts may be chosen from the salts of organic acids, such as citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates and tartrates.
  • organic acids such as citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates and tartrates.
  • the mineral salts may be chosen from hydrohalides (for example hydrochlorides), carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, sulfates, hydrogen phosphates, and phosphates.
  • ammonium salts that may be used according to the present disclosure may be chosen from the following acid salts: carbonate, bicarbonate.
  • the salt is the carbonate, such as ammonium carbonate.
  • the inorganic bases that may be used may be chosen from alkali metal phosphates and carbonates such as, for example, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, and their derivatives.
  • the inorganic bases may also include alkali metals of carboxylates such as, for example, sodium acetate, potassium acetate, sodium citrate, and potassium citrate, and their derivatives .
  • the hydroxide base compounds can be chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides, organic hydroxides, and mixtures thereof. Suitable examples are ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, rubidium hydroxide, caesium hydroxide, francium hydroxide, beryllium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, cadmium hydroxide, cerium hydroxide, lanthanum hydroxide, actinium hydroxide, thorium hydroxide, aluminium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.
  • the alkalizing agent is chosen from alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphate, organic amines, hydroxide base compounds, and derivatives thereof.
  • the alkalizing agent is chosen from at least one organic amine such as at least one alkanolamine .
  • a particularly preferred alkanolamine is ethanolamine (also known as monoethanolamine or MEA) .
  • the at least one alkalizing agent of the present invention may be employed in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 30% by weight, such as from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, and further such as from about 0.5% to about 10% by weight, or such as from about 1% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the color base composition of the present invention .
  • a portion of the alkalizing agent is used to neutralize the at least one rheology modifying polymer before or after the polymer is added during the process of making the color base composition.
  • compositions or agents for altering the color of keratin fibers of the present invention contain a small amount of ammonia, or is substantially free of ammonia.
  • the at least one short alkyl chain hydroxy compound chosen from monoalcohols and polyols of the present invention includes, but is not limited to, ethanol (alcohol denatured), propanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof.
  • short alkyl chain refers to an alkyl chain having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • the at least one short alkyl chain hydroxy compound are chosen from lower monoalcohols, such as those containing from about 1 to 5 carbon atoms, for example ethanol and isopropanol ; polyols, including glycols, such as those containing from about 2 to 8 carbon atoms, for example propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and glycerin.
  • lower monoalcohols such as those containing from about 1 to 5 carbon atoms, for example ethanol and isopropanol
  • polyols including glycols, such as those containing from about 2 to 8 carbon atoms, for example propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and glycerin.
  • Suitable short alkyl chain hydroxy compounds chosen from monoalcohols and polyols can be volatile or nonvolatile compounds.
  • the at least one short alkyl chain hydroxy compound chosen from monoalcohols and polyols may be employed according to the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight, such as from about 1% to about 12% by weight, or such as from about 3% to about 10% by weight, or such as from about 5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the color base composition of the present invention.
  • DIRECT DYES DYES
  • the direct dyes useful in accordance with the present disclosure may be chosen from neutral, acidic, or cationic nitrobenzene dyes; neutral, acidic, or cationic azo direct dyes; neutral, acidic, or cationic quinone and anthraquinone, direct dyes; azine direct dyes; triarylmethane direct dyes; indoamine direct dyes; and natural direct dyes.
  • Non-limiting examples of benzene-based direct dyes that may be used herein include: 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1- amino-2-nitro-4- ⁇ -hydroxyethylaminobenzene , 1-amino-2 -nitro-4- bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl ) aminobenzene , 1, 4-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino) -2- nitrobenzene , l- -hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis ( ⁇ - hydroxyethylamino) benzene- , l- -hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4- aminobenzene , l- -hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4- (ethyl) ( ⁇ - hydroxyethyl ) aminoben- zene, l-amino-3-methyl-4- - hydroxyethylamino- 6-nitrobenzene , 1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis (
  • Suitable azo direct dyes may be chosen from, but not limited to, the cationic azo dyes described in International Patent Application Publication Nos. WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772, WO 02/078 660, WO 02/100 834, and WO 02/100 369, European Patent Application No. 0 714 954, and French Patent Application Nos. 2 822 696, 2 825 702, 2 825 625, 2 822 698, 2 822 693, 2 822 694, 2 829 926, 2 807 650, and 2 844 269, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entireties.
  • Examples of such azo compounds include, but are not limited to: 1, 3-dimethyl-2- [ [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] azo] -1H- imidazolium chloride, 1, 3-dimethyl-2- [ (4-aminophenyl) azo] -1H- imidazolium chloride, and l-methyl-4-
  • Suitable azo direct dyes include the following dyes, described in the Color Index International, 3rd edition: Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Brown 16, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Basic Brown 17, Acid Yellow 23, and Acid Orange 24.
  • Quinone direct dyes may be chosen, for example, from: Acid Violet 43, Acid Blue 62, Basic Blue 22, Basic Blue 99, and also l-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone , l-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone , 1- aminopropylaminoanthraquinone , 5- -hydroxyethyl-l, 4- diaminoanthraquinone , 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, and 1,4- bis ( ⁇ , ⁇ -dihydroxypropylamino) anthraquinone .
  • Non-limiting examples of azine dyes include: Basic Blue 17, and Basic Red 2.
  • Suitable triarylmethane dyes may include, for example: Basic Green 1, Acid blue 9, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 7, Acid Violet 49, Basic Blue 26, and Acid Blue 7.
  • a non-limiting example of an indoamine dye that may be used in accordance with the present disclosure is: 2- ⁇ - hydroxyethylamino-5- [bis ( ⁇ -4 ' -hydroxyethyl ) amino ]anilino-l,- 4- benzoquinone .
  • Natural direct dyes may be chosen, for example, from carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, and apigenidin. It is also possible to use extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, for example, henna-based poultices and extracts.
  • the at least one direct dye may be present in the dye composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition, for example, from 0.005% to 10% by weight.
  • the oxidative dye precursors are selected from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines , ortho- or para- aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds.
  • These oxidation bases are colourless or lightly coloured compounds which, in combination with oxidizing products, allow coloured species to be obtained, by a process of oxidative condensation.
  • Useful oxidative dye precursors of the present disclosure include, by way of example only, aromatic diamines, polyhydric phenols, amino phenols, and derivatives of these compounds, such as, for example, N-substituted derivatives of the amines, and ethers of the phenols.
  • oxidative dye precursors may be chosen from ortho- or para-aminophenols , ortho- or para-phenylenediamines , double bases, heterocyclic bases, and the acid addition salts thereof.
  • Exemplary para-phenylenediamines which may be chosen include compounds of the general formula (IV) and their addition salts with an acid:
  • -R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a C1-C4 monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C2-C4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C1-C4 ) alkoxy (C1-C4 ) alkyl radical, a C1-C4 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrogenous group, a phenyl radical or a 4 ' -aminophenyl radical;
  • -R9 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a C1-C4 monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C2-C4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C1-C4 ) alkoxy (C1-C4 ) alkyl radical or a C1-C4 radical substituted by a nitrogenous group;
  • -R8 and R9 can also form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, a 5- or 6-membered nitrogenous heterocycle optionally substituted by one or more alkyl, hydroxyl or ureido groups ;
  • -R10 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, such as a chlorine atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a sulpho radical, a carboxyl radical, a C1-C4 monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C1-C4 hydroxyalkoxy radical, a C1-C4 acetylaminoalkoxy radical, a Cl- C4 mesylaminoalkoxy radical or C1-C4 carbamoylaminoalkoxy radicals; and
  • a halogen atom such as a chlorine atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a sulpho radical, a carboxyl radical, a C1-C4 monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C1-C4 hydroxyalkoxy radical, a C1-C4 acetylaminoalkoxy radical, a Cl- C4 mesylaminoalkoxy radical or C1-C4 carbamoy
  • -Rll represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical.
  • Exemplary para-phenylenediamines of above formula (XXIII), include para-phenylenediamine, para-toluylenediamine, 2-chloro- para-phenylenediamine , 2 , 3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6- dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine , 2, 6-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine , 2 , 5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N- dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine , N, -diethyl-para- phenylenediamine , N, -dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine , 4-amino- N, -diethyl-3-methylaniline , ⁇ , ⁇ -bis (beta-hydroxyethyl ) -para- phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis (beta-hydroxyethyl) amino-2- methylaniline
  • Exemplary ortho-phenylenediamines include Nl-(2- hydroxyethyl ) -4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine, 4-methyl-o- phenylenediamine , and 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine and acid addition salts thereof.
  • double bases means
  • double bases may be chosen from compounds of the formula (V) and their addition salts with an acid:
  • -Zl and Z2 may independently be chosen from a hydroxyl or --NH2 radical which can be substituted by a C1-C4 alkyl radical or by a connecting arm Y;
  • the connecting arm Y is chosen from a linear or branched alkylene chain comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms which can be interrupted or terminated by one or more nitrogenous groups and/or by one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen, sulphur or nitrogen atoms, and which is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or C1-C6 alkoxy radicals;
  • -R12 and R13 are independently chosen from a hydrogen or halogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a C1-C4 monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C2-C4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a C1-C4 aminoalkyl radical or a connecting arm Y;
  • R14, R15, R16, R17, R18 and R19 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom, a connecting arm Y or a C1-C4 alkyl radical;
  • nitrogenous groups of the above formula (V) may be chosen from amino, mono (C1-C4) alkylamino, di (C1-C4) alkylamino, tri (C1-C4 ) alkylamino, monohydrox (C1-C4 ) alkylamino, imidazolinium and ammonium radicals .
  • Nonlimiting examples of double bases include ⁇ , ⁇ '- bis (beta-hydroxyethyl ) -N, ' -bis ( 4 ' -aminophenyl ) -1 , 3-diamino- propan-ol , N, ' -bis (beta-hydroxyethyl ) -N, ' -bis ( 4 ' - aminophenyl ) ethylenediamine , N, ' -bis (beta-aminophenyl ) - tetramethylenediamine , N, ' -bis ( 4-hydroxyethyl ) -N, ' -bis ( 4- aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine , N,N'-bis(4- methylaminophenyl ) tetramethylenediamine , N, ' -diethyl-N, ' - bis ( 4 ' -amino-3 ' -methylphen
  • -R20 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, such as fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a C1-C4 monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C1-C4 ) alkoxy (C1-C4 ) alkyl radical, a C1-C4 aminoalkyl radical or a hydroxy (C1-C4 ) alkylamino- (Cl- C4) alkyl radical, and [000205] -R21 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, such as fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a C1-C4 monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C2-C4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a C1-C4 aminoalkyl radical, a C1-C4 cyanoalkyl radical or a (Cl- C4) alkoxy (C1-C4) alkyl radical.
  • a halogen atom such as flu
  • para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3- methylphenol , 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4- amino-3- hydroxymethylphenol , 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2- hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- aminomethylphenol , 4-amino-2- (beta- hydroxyethylaminomethyl ) phenol , N-methyl-para-aminophenol , and the acid addition salts thereof may be chosen.
  • Exemplary ortho-aminophenols may be chosen from 2- aminophenol, 2-amino-l-hydroxy-5-methylbenzene, 2-amino-l- hydroxy- 6-methylbenzene , 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the acid addition salts thereof.
  • Exemplary heterocyclic bases may be chosen from pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolinone derivatives, and the acid addition salts thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of pyridine derivatives include, for example, those disclosed in GB1026978 and GB1153196, both incorporated by reference herein, such as 2 , 5-diaminopyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-aminopyridine , 2, 3-diamino-6- methoxypyridine , 2- (beta-methoxyethyl) amino-3-amino-6 methoxypyridine , 3, 4-diaminopyridine, and the acid addition salts thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of pyrimidine derivatives include, for example, those described in DE 2 359 399, JP 88-169 571, JP 91-10659 and WO 96/15765, all incorporated by reference herein, such as 2 , 4 , 5 , 6-tetra-aminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2 , 5 , 6- triaminopyrimidine , 2-hydroxy-4 , 5 , 6-triamino-pyrimidine , 2,4- dihydroxy-5 , 6-diaminopyrimidine , 2, 5, 6-triaminopyrimidine, and the pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives, such as those mentioned in French Application FR-A-2 750 048 and among which may be mentioned pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidine-3, 7-diamine; 2,5- dimethyIpyrazolo [ 1 , 5-a ] pyrimidine-3 , 7-diamine ; pyrazolo [1,5- a
  • Non-limiting examples of pyrazole and pyrazolinone derivatives include the compounds described in DE 3,843,892, DE 4, 133, 957, WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 , 733 , 749 , and DE 195 43 988, all of which are incorporated by reference herein, such as 4 , 5-diamino-l-methyl-pyrazole , 3 , 4 -diaminopyrazole , 4,5- diamino-1- ( 4 ' - chlorobenzyl ) pyrazole , 4 , 5-diamino-l , 3- dimethylpyrazole , 4,5- diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole , 4,5- diamino-l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole , 4-amino-l, 3-dimethyl-5- hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4 , 5-di
  • the at least one oxidation dye precursor may be present in the color base composition of the present disclosure in an amount ranging from, for example, about 0.0001% to about 12%, such as from about 0.0001% to about 8.0%, or from about 0.005% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the color base composition.
  • one or more oxidative dye precursors of the present disclosure may be employed in combination with one or more couplers.
  • oxidative dye precursors are very often varied by combining them with one or more couplers, the latter being selected in particular from aromatic meta-diamines , meta-aminophenols , meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.
  • the couplers that may be used in the present disclosure include those conventionally used in oxidative methods of coloring keratinous fibers, for example, meta- aminophenols, meta-phenylenediamines and meta-diphenols, naphthols, mono- or polyhydroxylated naphthalene derivatives, and heterocyclic couplers such as, for example, indole derivatives, indoline derivatives, sesamol and its derivatives, pyridine derivatives, pyrazolotriazole derivatives, pyrazolones, indazoles, benzimidazoles , benzothiazoles , benzoxazoles , 1,3- benzodioxoles , quinolines, benzomorpholine derivatives, pyrazoloazole derivatives, pyrroloazole derivatives, imidazoloazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives, pyrazoline-3 , 5-dione derivatives, pyrrolo [ 3 ,
  • Suitable color couplers include, for example, those havin the eneral formula (D) :
  • Ri is unsubstituted hydroxy or amino, or hydroxy or amino substituted with one or more Ci-6 hydroxyalkyl groups
  • R 3 and R5 are each independently hydrogen, hydroxy, amino, or amino substituted with Ci-6 alkyl, Ci-6 alkoxy, or Ci-6 hydroxyalkyl group
  • R 2 , R 4 , and R6 are each independently hydrogen, Ci-6 alkoxy, Ci-6 hydroxyalkyl, or Ci-6 alkyl, or R3 and R 4 together may form a methylenedioxy or ethylenedioxy group.
  • meta-derivatives such as phenols, meta-aminophenols , meta-phenylenediamines , and the like, which may be unsubstituted, or substituted on the amino group or benzene ring with alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, alkylamino groups, and the like.
  • Suitable couplers include m-aminophenol, 2,4- diaminotoluene , 4-amino, 2-hydroxytoluene , phenyl methyl pyrazolone, 3, 4-methylenedioxyphenol, 3 , 4-methylenedioxy-l- [ ( ⁇ - hydroxyethyl ) amino ] benzene , l-methoxy-2-amino-4- [ ( ⁇ - hydroxyethyl ) amino] benzene, l-hydroxy-3- (dimethylamino) benzene, 6-methyl-1-hydroxy-3 [ ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl ) amino ] benzene , 2,4- dichloro-l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene , 1-hydroxy-3-
  • Couplers may be chosen, for example, from 2,4- diamino-1- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5- N- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl ) amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 1,3- dihydroxybenzene, 1, 3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-l , 3- dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino 1- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2- amino-4- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino) -1-methoxybenzene , 1, 3- diaminobenzene , l,3-bis(2,4- diaminophenoxy) propane, sesamol, 1- amino- 2-methoxy-4 , 5- methylenedioxybenzene , a-naphthol, 6- hydroxyindole , 4- hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylind
  • the couplers include resorcinol, 1- naphthol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-amino-2-hydroxy toluene, m- aminophenol, 2 , 4-diaminophenoxyethanol, phenyl methyl pyrazolone, hydroxybenzomorpholine , 2-methyl-5-hydroxyetyylaminophenol, 6- hydroxyindole , 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-o- cresol, 4-chlororesorcinol , their salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • couplers may be present in amounts ranging from about 0.0001% to about 12% by weight; or from about 0.1% to about 8% by weight; or from about 1% to about 5% based on the total weight of the color base composition.
  • the acid addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers may be chosen from hydrochlorides, hydrobromides , sulphates, tartrates, lactates, and acetates.
  • the agent for altering the color of keratin fibers of the present invention requires an oxidizing composition including at least one oxidizing agent which may be chosen, for example, from a peroxide, a persulfate, a perborate, a percarbonate , alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides or a mixture thereof.
  • Oxidizing agents that may also be used include at least one redox enzyme such as laccases, peroxidases, and 2- electron oxidoreductases , such as uricase, where appropriate in the presence of their respective donor or co-factor. Oxygen in the air may also be employed as an oxidizing agent.
  • the oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides , peroxygenated salts, perborates, percarbonates , laccases, peroxidases, redox enzymes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide present in an aqueous solution whose titre may range from 1 to 40 volumes, such as from 5 to 40 volumes or such as from 5 to 20 volumes.
  • the oxidizing agent is a persulfate and/or a monopersulfate such as, for example, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, as well as mixtures thereof.
  • the oxidizing agents in the present disclosure are selected from hydrogen peroxide, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate and mixtures thereof .
  • the oxidizing agent will be present in an amount of from about 0.05 to about 50% by weight, such as from about 0.1% to about 30% by weight, or such as from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, or such as from about 1% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
  • compositions of the present invention can comprise other compounds constituting the cosmetically acceptable medium.
  • This cosmetically acceptable medium comprises water or a mixture of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent .
  • organic solvents non-limiting mentions can be made of alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
  • alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol
  • glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as
  • the pH of the color base composition is greater than 7 and may range from about 7.1 to about 14, or such as from about 7.5 to about 14, or such as from about 7.5 to about 12, or such as from about 7.5 to about 10 or such as from about 7.5 to about 9, or such as from about 9 to about 11, and it may be adjusted to the desired value using acidifying or basifying agents that are well known in the art in the dyeing of keratin fibers.
  • the pH of the agent for altering the color of keratin fibers may range from about 2 to about 14, such as from about 3 to about 13, or such as from about 4 to about 12, or such as from about 4 to about 11.
  • the pH of the agent for altering the color of keratin fibers may range ranges from about 1 to about 7, or may be below 7, such as from about 2 to 6.8, or such as from about 2 to about 6.5, or such as from about 4 to about 6.0. In other embodiments, the pH of the agent for altering the color of keratin fibers may be above 7, such as from about 7.1 to about 14, or such as from about 7.1 to about 12, or such as from about 7.1 to about 11, or such as from about 9 to about 11, or such as from about 10 to about 11, or such as from about 7.5 to about 10.
  • the color base composition of the present disclosure is preferably in the form of an emulsion, for example, oil-in- water emulsion and water-in-oil emulsion.
  • the color base composition of the present disclosure is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the color base and oxidizing compositions of the present invention may further comprise at least one auxiliary agent.
  • the auxiliary agent may include, but is not limited to thickening agents and rheology modifying polymers other than those described above (such as those commercially available as Carbopol® Aqua SF-1 and Carbopol® Aqua SF-2), cationic polymers, film forming polymers, pigments, dyes, humectants and moisturizing agents, emulsifying agents other than those that fall under the above-described fatty substances, structuring agents, propellants, surfactants, shine agents, and conditioning agents .
  • Thickening agents and rheology modifying polymers other than the above-described rheology modifying polymers may further comprise the compositions of the present invention and may be chosen from polymeric thickeners and non-polymeric thickeners as described in US2010154140A, herein incorporated by reference in its entirety.
  • Thickening agents of the present invention may be chosen from polymeric thickeners and non-polymeric thickeners.
  • the at least one polymeric thickener can be chosen from ionic or non-ionic, associative or non-associative polymers.
  • Exemplary polymeric thickeners include various native gums.
  • Representative non-polymeric thickening agents include mineral salts such as sodium chloride; oxyethylenated molecules and especially ethoxylated alkyl or acyl derivatives of polyols . These polymers can be modified physically or chemically.
  • the at least one thickening agent of the present invention is preferably used in an amount of from greater than 0% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, and more preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the first or oxidizing composition of the present invention.
  • the color base and oxidizing compositions according to the present invention can also comprise at least one cationic polymer .
  • the at least one cationic polymer included in the compositions of the disclosure is not chosen from cationic associative polymers.
  • these cationic polymers do not comprise in their structure a pendent or terminal hydrophobic chain, for example of alkyl or alkenyl type, containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • compositions according to the disclosure can be chosen from, for example:
  • R 3 which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 radical
  • A which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched Ci-Ct and, for example, C 2 -C 3 alkyl group or a Ci -C4 hydroxyalkyl group;
  • R 4 , R5 and Re which may be identical or different, represent a Ci-Cis alkyl group or a benzyl radical, such as a Ci- C 6 alkyl group;
  • Ri and R 2 which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C1-C6 alkyl group, for example methyl or ethyl;
  • X ⁇ denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the polymers of this family can also contain at least one unit derived from at least one comonomer which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides , diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C 1 -C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl acrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide such as the product sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company Hercules,
  • quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/ dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or acrylate copolymers such as the products sold under the name GAFQUAT by the company ISP, for instance GAFQUAT 734 or GAFQUAT 755, or alternatively the products known as COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937,
  • dimethylaminoethyl acrylate/ vinylcaprolactam/ vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,
  • vinylpyrrolidone /methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers sold, for example, under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP,
  • quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/ dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFQUAT HS 100 by the company ISP, and crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy (C 1 -C4 ) alkyltri (Ci- C4) alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl acrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymeri zation of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl acrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymeri zation being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, such as methylenebisacrylamide .
  • a compound containing olefinic unsaturation such as methylenebisacrylamide
  • a crosslinked acrylamide/ methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the copolymer in mineral oil can be used.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name SALCARE® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can be used.
  • These dispersions are sold under the names SALCARE® SC 95 and SALCARE® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups such as the polymers sold under the names JR (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or LR (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Union Carbide Corporation.
  • non-cellulose cationic polysaccharides such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups.
  • non-cellulose cationic polysaccharides such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups.
  • Such products are sold, for example, under the trade names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 and JAGUAR C162 by the company Meyhall .
  • water-soluble polyamino amides prepared, for example, by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine , a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polya
  • the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid ranges from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; the polyamino amide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1.
  • Polymers of this type are sold, for example, under the name HERCOSETT 57, PD 170 or DELSETTE 101 by the company Hercules.
  • Rg denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R7 and Rs independently of each other, denote a Ci-Cs alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group is Ci- C5, an amidoalkyl group in which the alkyl is C 1 -C4; or R 7 and Rs denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; in at least one embodiment R7 and Rs, independently of each other, denote a C 1 -C4 alkyl group; Y ⁇ is an organic or mineral anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • Rio , Rn , R12 and R13 which may be identical or different, represent C 1 -C6 aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals wherein the alkyl radical is C 1 -C4, or alternatively Rio , Rn , R12 and R13 , together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively Rio , Rn , R12 and Ri3 represent a linear or branched C 1 -C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group --CO--O-- R14-D or --CO--NH--R14-D wherein R i4 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
  • Ai and Bi represent C 2 -C6 polymethylene groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which optionally contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, at least one aromatic ring or at least one atom chosen from oxygen and sulfur atom or at least one group chosen from sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide and ester groups, and
  • X ⁇ denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
  • Ai, Rio and R 12 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
  • Bi can also denote a group -- (CH 2 ) n --CO-D-OC-- (CH 2 ) n -- wherein n is a number ranging from 1 to 6, and D is chosen from:
  • a glycol residue of formula: —0—Z—0— where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: --(CH 2 —CH 2 - -0) x —CH 2 —CH 2 — ; or — [CH 2 —CH(CH 3 )—0] y —CH 2 —CH (CH 3 )— , where x and y denote an integer ranging from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number ranging from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
  • X ⁇ is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
  • These polymers for example, have a number-average molecular mass ranging from 1000 to 100,000.
  • polymers are used that consist of repeating units corresponding to formula (XIII) :
  • the at least one cationic polymer corresponding to this family comprise repeating units of formulae (W) and (U) :
  • D may be zero or may represent a group -- (CH 2 ) r __ CO-- wherein r denotes a number ranging from 1 to 6, and X ⁇ is an anion.
  • Such polymers may be prepared according to the processes described in U.S. Pat. Nos . 4, 157, 388, 4, 702, 906 and 4,719,282. They are described, for example, in patent application EP 122 324.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the disclosure include, for example, cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates , polyalkyleneimines , such as polyethyleneimines , polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, and chitin derivatives.
  • Particularly useful cationic polymers in the present invention include, but are not limited to, polyquaternium 4, polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 11, polyquaternium 16, polyquaternium 22, polyquaternium 28, polyquaternium 32, polyquaternium- -46, polyquaternium- -51, polyquaternium- -52, polyquaternium- -53, polyquaternium- -54, polyquaternium- -55, polyquaternium- -56, polyquaternium- -57, polyquaternium- -58, polyquaternium- -59, polyquaternium- -60, polyquaternium- -63, polyquaternium- -64, polyquaternium- -65, polyquaternium- -66, polyquaternium- -67, polyquaternium- -70, polyquaternium- -73, polyquaternium- -74, polyquaternium- -75, polyquaternium-
  • Particularly preferred cationic polymers of the present invention include POLYMER JR-125, POLYMER JR-400, Polymer JR-30M hydroxyethyl cellulosic polymers (polyquaternium 10) available from AMERCHOL; JAGUAR C® 13-S, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, available from Rhodia; and MERQUAT ⁇ 100 and 280, a dimethyl dialkyl ammonium chloride (polyquaternium 6) available from Nalco.
  • the cationic polymer is generally present in an amount of from greater than 0% to about 15%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, and more preferably from about 1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the first or oxidizing composition.
  • the color base and oxidizing compositions of the present invention according to the disclosure can also comprise at least one additive used conventionally in compositions for application onto hair.
  • Additive means a substance that is added, different from the compounds already mentioned.
  • antioxidants or reducing agents examples include antioxidants or reducing agents, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersants, ceramides, sunscreen agents, preservatives, opacifiers, and antistatic agents.
  • the oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent can further comprise at least one fatty substance chosen from the above-described fatty substance, including the at least one fatty substance having a viscosity greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C.
  • the total amount of fatty substances in the oxidizing composition may range from about 1% to about 20% by weight, or such as from about 5% to about 20% by weight, or such as from about 10% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
  • the total amount of fatty substances is at least about 1.25% by weight and may range up to less than about 50% by weight, or up to about 40% by weight, or up to about 30% by weight, or up to about 20% by weight, or up to about 10% by weight based on the total weight of the agent for altering the color of keratin fibers formed from the combination of the color base and oxidizing compositions of the present invention.
  • the color base and oxidizing compositions of the present invention according to the disclosure can be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, liquid-gels, liquid- creams, creams or lotions.
  • the process of making the color base composition involves a cold process that does not require the use of heat while the ingredients are mixed and does not require the use of an emulsifier blade.
  • the color base composition does not require the presence of a fatty alcohol in order to form an emulsion.
  • the color base composition may be prepared in the absence of heat using mixing speeds at shearing rates that are lower than the shearing rates used to prepare conventional/commercial hair color that are typically provided in the form of emulsions.
  • the process of making the color base composition involves the general procedure of:
  • the acrylates copolymer may also be pre-neutralized before it is combined with the other ingredients according to the process above.
  • the process for coloring keratin fibers according to the present invention comprises:
  • the process of the present disclosure is a method comprising applying the agent for altering the color of keratin fibers according to the present disclosure onto the keratin fibers.
  • the agent for altering the color of the fibers is formed from combining the color base and oxidizing compositions of the present disclosure wherein the color is developed at an alkaline or neutral to acidic pH and the oxidizing composition can be added at the moment of use or it can be used simultaneously with or sequentially to the color base composition.
  • the keratin fibers Upon application and after a resting time on the keratin fibers, for example, ranging from about 1 to 60 minutes, such as from about 5 to 45 minutes, the keratin fibers are rinsed, optionally washed with shampoo and rinsed again, then dried .
  • the oxidizing composition is aqueous or is in the form of an emulsion.
  • the oxidizing composition is substantially anhydrous.
  • substantially anhydrous means that the oxidizing composition is either completely free of water or contains no appreciable amount of water, for example, no more than 5% by weight, or no more than 2% by weight, or no more than 1% by weight, based on the weight of the oxidizing composition. It should be noted that this refers for example to bound water, such as the water of crystallization of the salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the preparation of the compositions according to the disclosure.
  • the oxidizing composition can contain at least one solvent, chosen from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof .
  • the oxidizing composition when the oxidizing composition is substantially anhydrous, the oxidizing composition may comprise at least one solvent chosen from organic solvents.
  • Suitable organic solvents for use in the oxidizing composition include ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenyl ethyl alcohol, glycols and glycol ethers, such as propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol and its ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monobutyl ether, hydrocarbons such as straight chain hydrocarbons, mineral oil, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polydecene, squalane, petrolatum , isoparaffins, and mixtures, thereof .
  • glycols and glycol ethers such as propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol monomethyl,
  • the at least one solvent may, for example, be present in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 70% by weight, such as from about 2% to about 60% by weight, preferably from about 5 to about 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
  • the oxidizing composition may be in the form of a powder, gel, liquid, foam, lotion, cream, mousse, and emulsion.
  • the pH of the oxidizing composition can range from about 2 to about 12, such as from about 6 to about 11, and it may be adjusted to the desired value using acidifying/alkalizing agents that are well known in the art.
  • a particular agent for altering the color of keratin fibers of the invention comprises:
  • (B) optionally, an oxidizing composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one oxidizing agent.
  • the agent for altering the color of keratin fibers is a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fatty substance having a viscosity greater than about 50 mm /s at 40°C, at least one rheology modifying polymer selected from a crosslinked acrylate polymer in aqueous dispersion, at least one alkalizing agent, at least one short chain hydroxyl compound chosen from monoalcohols and polyols; at least one direct dye; optionally, at least one oxidative dye precursor; at optionally, least one oxidizing agent, and wherein the pH of the agent for altering the color of keratin fibers is from between about 2 to about 14.
  • the agent for altering the color of keratin fibers is a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fatty substance having a viscosity greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C, at least one rheology modifying polymer chosen from acrylates copolymer in aqueous dispersion comprising about 30% by weight of total solids and acrylate crosspolymer-4 , at least one alkalizing agent, at least one short chain hydroxyl compound chosen from monoalcohols and polyols; at least one direct dye, optionally, at least one oxidative dye precursor; optionally, at least one oxidizing agent.
  • the agent for altering the color of keratin fibers can comprise two compositions, a color base composition, containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fatty substance having a viscosity greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C, at least one rheology modifying polymer as defined previously, at least one alkalizing agent; and at least one short chain hydroxyl compound chosen from monoalcohols and polyols; at least one direct dye; optionally, at least one oxidative dye precursor; and an oxidizing composition, containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, least one oxidizing agent, and wherein the pH of the agent for altering the color of keratin fibers is from between about 2 to about 14.
  • the agent for altering the color of keratin fibers can result from mixing two units, including a first unit of a color base composition, containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fatty substance having a viscosity greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40°C, at least one rheology modifying polymer as defined previously, at least one alkalizing agent; and at least one short chain hydroxyl compound chosen from monoalcohols and polyols; at least one direct dye; optionally, at least one oxidative dye precursor; and a second unit of an oxidizing composition containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one oxidizing agent, and wherein the agent for altering the color of keratin is from between about 2 to about 14.
  • kits for coloring keratin fibers comprising a first unit containing the above described color base composition and a second unit comprising the above described oxidizing composition when oxidative dye precursors are used in the color base composition .
  • the coloring obtained using the compositions and method of the present disclosure may also be durable or wash/fade resistant.
  • the comparative direct dye was prepared by traditional methods involving the use if heat.
  • the speed of mixing was increased to at least about 1200 RPM to ensure proper mixing.
  • One half of the total concentration of alcohol denatured (ethanol) required was added to adjust or decrease the viscosity of the emulsion.
  • the remainder of the mineral oil was then added and mixing was continued for a few minutes. If an additional fatty substance other than the fatty substance having a viscosity of greater than about 50 mm 2 /s at 40 °C is employed, it can also be added at this stage, together with other additives that may be desired.
  • the remainder of the alcohol denatured was also added.
  • the anti-oxidants sodium metabisulfite and erythorbic acid, were added to the emulsion.
  • the speed of mixing was decreased.
  • the remainder of the ethanolamine was added to the emulsion to adjust the pH.
  • An acidifying or basifying agent was added to the emulsion to further adjust the pH, if necessary.
  • an oxidizing composition is required.
  • Polyquaterium- 6 Hexadimethrine Chloride were then added to the solution and mixed for 10 minutes. Phase A was then cooled to 25°C. Hydrogen Peroxide was added to the solution and homogenized for 5 minutes. The homogenizer blade was removed and replaced with a chopper blade. Phosphoric Acid was added to adjust the pH to 2.0 - 2.40.
  • the color base composition serves as the agent (ready-to-use composition) for altering the color of hair and is applied directly onto hair.
  • the agent for altering the color of hair was prepared by mixing the color base composition, and an oxidizing composition and was used to color hair at the time of use in the following manner:
  • the hair swatches were then washed with shampoo, rinsed and then dried.
  • the color base composition can be mixed with the oxidizing composition in a 1:1 ratio, or a 1:2 ratio or a 1:3 ratio.
  • Example 1 Each of the formulas in Example 1 above was mixed with an oxidizing composition (eg, composition in Example 1) to form the agent for altering the color of hair (swatches) .
  • an oxidizing composition eg, composition in Example 1
  • the color of the swatches was measured with a Minolta CM2600d spectrocolorimeter (specular components included, 10 degrees angle, illuminant D65) in the CIEL*a*b* system.
  • L* represents the intensity of the color
  • a* indicates the green/red color axis
  • b* the blue/yellow color axis .
  • DELTA E represents the change in color between a control hair swatch (undyed/untreated) and a treated (or dyed) hair swatch, and is determined from the change is L* values, a* values and b* values.
  • L* represents lightness or intensity of color
  • Delta-E (DE) represents the difference between two colors. If DE is less than 1.0 there is hardly any color difference that the human eye can perceive. If DE is greater than 1.0 there is a noticeable color difference by eye.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un agent et un procédé pour modifier la couleur des fibres de kératine, l'agent comprenant: (A) une composition de base de couleur contenant un corps gras ayant une viscosité supérieure à environ 50 mm2/s à 40°C, un polymère modificateur de la rhéologie; et un agent alcalinisant; un composé hydroxy à chaîne alkyle courte choisi parmi les monoalcools et les polyols; un colorant direct; et éventuellement un précurseur de colorant par oxydation; et B) éventuellement une composition oxydante comprenant un agent oxydant.
PCT/EP2013/070472 2012-10-02 2013-10-01 Agent permettant de modifier la couleur des fibres de kératine comprenant un corps gras et polymère modificateur de rhéologie dans un système d'émulsion WO2014053503A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

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EP13773220.2A EP2903585A2 (fr) 2012-10-02 2013-10-01 Agent permettant de modifier la couleur des fibres de kératine comprenant un corps gras et polymère modificateur de rhéologie dans un système d'émulsion

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

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US13/633,219 US8721741B2 (en) 2012-10-02 2012-10-02 Agent for altering the color of keratin fibers containing a fatty substance, a rheology modifying polymer, and direct dyes in a cream emulsion system
US13/633,225 2012-10-02
US13/633,219 2012-10-02
US13/633,225 US8721742B2 (en) 2012-10-02 2012-10-02 Agent for altering the color of keratin fibers comprising a fatty substance, a rheology modifying polymer, and direct dyes in a liquid emulsion system

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WO2014053503A2 true WO2014053503A2 (fr) 2014-04-10
WO2014053503A3 WO2014053503A3 (fr) 2014-10-23

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8915973B1 (en) 2013-10-01 2014-12-23 L'oreal Agent for altering the color of keratin fibers containing a rheology modifying polymer and a fatty substance in an alkaline cream system
US8920521B1 (en) 2013-10-01 2014-12-30 L'oreal Agent for altering the color of keratin fibers comprising a rheology modifying polymer and high levels of a fatty substance in a cream system
WO2018125960A1 (fr) * 2016-12-28 2018-07-05 L'oreal Composition pour lever la couleur et/ou modifier la couleur de substrats kératiniques

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0970685A1 (fr) * 1998-07-09 2000-01-12 L'oreal Composition de teinture pour fibres kératiniques avec un colorant direct cationique et un polymère épaississant
FR2852823A1 (fr) * 2003-03-25 2004-10-01 Oreal Composition de traitement des matieres keratiniques comprenant un acide polycarboxylique et un agent protecteur ou conditionneur
US20050071931A1 (en) * 2001-01-09 2005-04-07 Katsunori Yoshida Hairdye preparation
US20090196841A1 (en) * 2008-02-05 2009-08-06 Basf Corporation Color Cosmetics Containing Isoalkane Mixture and Effect Pigments

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0970685A1 (fr) * 1998-07-09 2000-01-12 L'oreal Composition de teinture pour fibres kératiniques avec un colorant direct cationique et un polymère épaississant
US20050071931A1 (en) * 2001-01-09 2005-04-07 Katsunori Yoshida Hairdye preparation
FR2852823A1 (fr) * 2003-03-25 2004-10-01 Oreal Composition de traitement des matieres keratiniques comprenant un acide polycarboxylique et un agent protecteur ou conditionneur
US20090196841A1 (en) * 2008-02-05 2009-08-06 Basf Corporation Color Cosmetics Containing Isoalkane Mixture and Effect Pigments

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8915973B1 (en) 2013-10-01 2014-12-23 L'oreal Agent for altering the color of keratin fibers containing a rheology modifying polymer and a fatty substance in an alkaline cream system
US8920521B1 (en) 2013-10-01 2014-12-30 L'oreal Agent for altering the color of keratin fibers comprising a rheology modifying polymer and high levels of a fatty substance in a cream system
WO2018125960A1 (fr) * 2016-12-28 2018-07-05 L'oreal Composition pour lever la couleur et/ou modifier la couleur de substrats kératiniques

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WO2014053503A3 (fr) 2014-10-23

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