WO2014044660A1 - Ensemble cosmétique et composition cosmétique comprenant un tensio-actif anionique, un alcool gras solide et un polymère cationique, procédé de traitement cosmétique et dispositif de conditionnement - Google Patents

Ensemble cosmétique et composition cosmétique comprenant un tensio-actif anionique, un alcool gras solide et un polymère cationique, procédé de traitement cosmétique et dispositif de conditionnement Download PDF

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WO2014044660A1
WO2014044660A1 PCT/EP2013/069233 EP2013069233W WO2014044660A1 WO 2014044660 A1 WO2014044660 A1 WO 2014044660A1 EP 2013069233 W EP2013069233 W EP 2013069233W WO 2014044660 A1 WO2014044660 A1 WO 2014044660A1
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weight
composition
cosmetic
preferentially
alcohol
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PCT/EP2013/069233
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Marie-Florence D'ARRAS
Estelle Mathonneau
Sylvie RIU
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L'oreal
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Priority claimed from FR1258721A external-priority patent/FR2995527B1/fr
Priority claimed from FR1258723A external-priority patent/FR2995529B1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2014044660A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014044660A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5428—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge amphoteric or zwitterionic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/87—Application Devices; Containers; Packaging
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • Cosmetic assembly and cosmetic composition comprising an anionic surfactant, a solid fatty alcohol and a cationic polymer, cosmetic treatment process and conditioning device
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic assembly, especially for haircare, preferably for conditioning keratin materials, in particular the hair, comprising a combination of anionic surfactant, amphoteric or cationic polymer and fatty alcohol, and also to a process for using the said cosmetic assembly.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition, especially for haircare, preferably for conditioning keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, comprising a combination of surfactants, amphoteric or cationic polymer, water-soluble salt and solid fatty alcohol, and also to a process for using the said composition.
  • conditioning agents which may be cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones, non-silicone fatty substances and in particular oils, or a mixture of such compounds. These conditioning agents are especially used to improve the disentangling and softness of wet and dried hair.
  • Insoluble conditioning agents in particular liquid fatty alcohols, are known and used in haircare compositions, especially as illustrated in documents JP2002- 20791 , JP9-30938, US 2009/005 449 and US 2009/005 460.
  • the compositions comprising them do not have high cosmetic performance qualities, especially in terms of the disentangling and sleeking of the hair.
  • insoluble conditioning agents are greatly limited: firstly due to the stabilization difficulties in compositions; secondly due to the cosmetic defects, especially in terms of the lankness, charging and regreasing of keratin materials, associated with coarse or heterogeneous dispersions. These insoluble conditioning agents also have a tendency to make the head of hair dull.
  • the aim of the present invention is to provide cosmetic compositions which do not have these drawbacks.
  • compositions according to the inven- tion comprising solid fatty alcohols in combination with anionic surfactants make it possible to obtain very good cosmetic properties, especially after applying a colouration or a shampoo comprising a cationic polymer.
  • performance qualities of these compositions are in part dependent on the nature of the constituents of the dye or shampoo compositions.
  • a cosmetic assembly comprising at least two compositions, which are different from each other, and conditioned independently; the two compositions possibly being applied successively in a given order to keratin materials or mixed before being applied to the said keratin materi- als.
  • the Applicant has also discovered that by combining one or more particular anionic surfactants, one or more solid fatty alcohols, one or more cationic polymers, one or more nonionic surfactants and one or more water-soluble salts, very good cosmetic properties could also be obtained.
  • the cosmetic performance qualities were further improved, in particular in terms of sleekness and suppleness, or even softness and sheen, especially on sensitized hair.
  • a decrease in volume may also be observed, enabling better control of the head of hair.
  • compositions according to the invention also afford colour protection on washing artificially dyed hair.
  • One subject of the invention is thus a cosmetic assembly comprising at least two cosmetic compositions that are different from each other,
  • a first aqueous composition comprising at least one cationic polymer and/or at least one amphoteric polymer
  • a second aqueous composition comprising at least one anionic surfactant and at least one solid fatty alcohol.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • anionic surfactants such that at least 50% by weight of them comprise fatty chains with a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 14, especially between 14 and 30, or even between 16 and 22 carbon atoms,
  • the first and second compositions according to the invention are non- colouring compositions.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a non-colouring composition.
  • non-colouring composition means a composition not containing any dye for keratin fibres such as direct dyes or oxidation dye precursors (bases and couplers). If they are present, their content does not exceed 0.005% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Specifically, at such a content, only the composition would be dyed, i.e. no dyeing effect would be observed on the keratin fibres.
  • the first and second compositions according to the invention are non- oxidizing compositions.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a non-oxidizing composition.
  • non-oxidizing composition means a composition not containing any oxidizing agent usually used in keratin fibre treatments, such as hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for instance alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal persulfates, perborates, peracids and precursors thereof, and percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, and peracids and precursors thereof. If they are present, their content does not exceed 0.005% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • any oxidizing agent usually used in keratin fibre treatments, such as hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for instance alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal persulfates, perborates, peracids and precursors thereof, and percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, and peracid
  • the cosmetic assembly thus comprises a first composition, which is aqueous, and which comprises one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers.
  • the said first composition thus comprises water, especially in an amount of from 50% to 99.9% by weight and in particular from 70% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said first composition.
  • the said first composition is in the form of an aqueous solution.
  • the said first composition thus comprises one or more amphoteric or cationic polymers, or a mixture of these polymers.
  • cationic polymer means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups.
  • the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic.
  • the cationic polymers may be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, i.e. especially those described in documents EP 337 354, FR 2 270 846, FR 2 383 660, FR 2 598 61 1 , FR 2 470 596 and FR 2 519 863.
  • the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units compris- ing primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
  • the cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5x10 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3x10 6 approximately.
  • cationic polymers mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type, such as those described in FR 2 505 348 and FR 2 542 997.
  • R3 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 radical
  • - A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyal- kyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group con- taining from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • R1 and R2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosul- fate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of family (1 ) may also contain one or more units derived from co- monomers that may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitro- gen with lower (Ci-C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyl- lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • co- monomers may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitro- gen with lower (Ci-C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyl- lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP, - preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyltri(Ci- C 4 )alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copoly- merization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more particularly methyle- nebisacrylamide.
  • an olefinically unsaturated compound more particularly methyle- nebisacrylamide.
  • a crosslinked acryla- mide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil may be used more particularly.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyl- trimethylammonium chloride homopolymer containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used.
  • These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • Cationic polysaccharides especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.
  • cationic polysaccharides mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble qua- ternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • the cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are especially described in French patent 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer "JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or "LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hy- droxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethyl- ammonium group.
  • Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described especially in US patent 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacry- loylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or di- methyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
  • Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride).
  • a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt for example, chloride.
  • Such products are especially sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 or Jaguar C162 by the company Rhodia.
  • Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyamino- amide; these polya
  • Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in FR 1 583 363.
  • Such polymers are especially described in US 3 227 615 and US 2 961 347.
  • Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
  • Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II): 2)-CH 2
  • R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R10 and R1 1 independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C1 -C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R1 1 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R1 1 , independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • - Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisul- fate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • R13, R14, R15 and R16 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a ni- trile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group in which R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
  • A1 and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
  • A1 , R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
  • A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical
  • B1 may also denote a group (CH 2 )n-CO-D-OC-(CH 2 )n- in which D denotes:
  • a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O- in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH 2 -CH2-O)x-CH2-CH 2 - and -[CH 2 -CH(CH3)-O] y -CH2-CH(CH 3 )-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
  • a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
  • X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
  • These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
  • R1 , R2, R3 and R4 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyi radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X " is an anion derived from an organic or mineral acid.
  • R18, R19, R20 and R21 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl, ⁇ -hydroxypropyl or - CH2CH2(OCH 2 CH2)pOH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
  • - r and s which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34, - X- denotes an anion such as a halide,
  • A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -Ch -Ch -O-Ch -Ch -
  • Such compounds are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324. Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A15, Mirapol® AD1 , Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
  • these polymers may be chosen especially from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
  • these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from
  • These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinyl- formamide. This hydrolysis may be performed in an acidic or basic medium.
  • the weight-average molecular mass of the said polymer measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to
  • the cationic charge density of these polymers may range from 2 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
  • the polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold especially under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, and in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 and Lupamin 9010.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cati- onic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • the cationic polymers are chosen from the polymers of families (1 ), (2), (7) and (10) mentioned above.
  • the ones that may preferably be used are cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses and galactoman- nan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, and homologues thereof of low weight- average molecular weights, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vi- nylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloy- loxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyltri(Ci-C 4 )alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name "J
  • amphoteric polymers which may preferably be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of:
  • the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i) are units of structure (I) below: in which Ri denotes H or CH 3 and R2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino or -NH-CH 2 OH radical.
  • the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (I).
  • the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (I) in which Ri denotes H and R2 is an amino radical (NH 2 ) is particularly preferred. It corre- sponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.
  • the units derived from a monomer (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) are units of structure (II) below:
  • R3 denotes H or CH 3 ,
  • - R denotes a group (CH 2 )k with k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4;
  • R 5 , R6 and R 7 which may be identical or different, each denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • - Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisul- fate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (II).
  • the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) are units of formula (III):
  • R 8 denotes H or CH 3 and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical or a -NH- C(CH 3 )2-CH2-SO 3 H radical.
  • the preferred units of formula (III) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.
  • the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (III) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which R 8 denotes a hydrogen atom and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical.
  • the acidic mononner(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non-neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
  • the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (III).
  • the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type.
  • the content of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.
  • the content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5mol% to 15 mol%.
  • amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:
  • Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type, of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and of (meth)acrylic acid type as described above.
  • the said amphoteric polymers consist solely of units derived from monomers (i) of (meth)acrylamide type, (ii) of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of (meth)acrylic acid type.
  • amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA dictionary International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 10th edition 2004, under the name Polyqua- ternium 53. Corresponding products are especially sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco.
  • amphoteric polymer As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
  • copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
  • An example that may be mentioned is Merquat 280 sold by the company Nalco.
  • amphoteric or cationic polymers, or mixtures thereof are especially present in the said first composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said first composition.
  • the cosmetic assembly also comprises a second composition, different from the said first composition, which is aqueous and which comprises at least one anionic surfactant and at least one solid fatty alcohol.
  • the said second composition thus comprises water, especially in an amount of from 50% to 99.9% by weight and in particular from 70% to 99% by weight, rela- tive to the total weight of the said second composition.
  • the said second composition is in the form of an emulsion, especially of oil-in-water type.
  • the said second composition thus comprises one or more anionic surfactants.
  • a species is termed as being "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic filler.
  • the anionic surfactants that may be used have a fatty chain with a number of carbon atoms of greater than or equal to 14, especially between 14 and 30 and better still between 16 and 22 carbon atoms.
  • the anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylic or carboxylate surfactants; preferably, it is a sulfate anionic surfactant.
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO " ).
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used may be chosen from salts, in particular the alkali metal salts such as the sodium salts, the ammonium salts, the amine salts, the amino alcohol salts or the salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example of magnesium, belonging to the following types; alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, acyl glycinates, acylsarcosi- nates and acylglutamates, the alkyl and/or acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the alkali metal salts such as the sodium salts, the ammonium salts, the amine salts, the amino alcohol salts or the salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example of magnesium
  • alkyl sulfosuccinates al
  • alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as alkyi glucoside citrates, alkyi polyglycoside tartrates and alkyi polyglyco- side sulfosuccinates, and alkylsulfosuccinamates, the alkyi or acyl group of all these compounds comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • acyllactylates the acyl group of which comprises from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids and salts thereof Mention may also be made of alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids and salts thereof and also polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkyle- nated (C14-30)alkyl(C6-30)aryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C14- 30)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30)alkyl ether carboxylic acids polyoxyalkyle- nated (C14-30)alkyl(C6-30)aryl ether carboxylic acids
  • polyoxyalkylenated (C14- 30)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise any sulfate or sulfonate functions.
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from acylglutamates such as stearoyl glutamates; acyl sarcosinates such as palmitoyl sarcosinates; acyl lactylates such as behenoyl lactylates; and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, amine or amino alcohol salts.
  • the sulfate or sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate (-OSO3H or -OSO3-) function and/or one sulfonate (-SO3H or -SO3-) function.
  • the sulfate or sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used may be chosen from salts, in particular the alkali metal salts such as the sodium salts, the ammonium salts, the amine salts, the amino alcohol salts or the salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example of magnesium, belonging to the following types: alkyi sulfates, alkyi ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyc- eride sulfates; alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkyi sulfosuccinates, alkyi ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates; alkyi sulfoacetates, the
  • the sulfate or sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen from C16- C18 alkyi sulfates and C16-18 alkyi ether sulfates, and mixtures thereof, especially in the form of salts with alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, with ammonium, with amine or with amino alcohol.
  • the anionic surfactants are sulfates and have a fatty chain with a number of carbon atoms of greater than or equal to 14, especially between 14 and 30 and better still between 16 and 22 carbon atoms.
  • the anionic surfactants are chosen from C16-C18 alkyl sulfates and C16-18 alkyl ether sulfates, and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of salts with alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, with ammonium, with amine or with amino alcohol.
  • the anionic surfactants are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said second composition.
  • the said second composition also comprises one or more solid fatty alcohols.
  • the solid fatty alcohols that may be used in the context of the present invention are solid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1 % by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.
  • fatty alcohol means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
  • the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
  • the solid fatty alcohols may be mixtures, which means that several species may coexist in a commercial product, especially of different chain lengths, in the form of a mixture.
  • the solid fatty alcohols are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferentially from 1 % to 25% by weight and better still from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the said second composition.
  • Other ingredients are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferentially from 1 % to 25% by weight and better still from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the said second composition.
  • the cosmetic assembly may also comprise additional constituents, which may be present, depending on their nature, in the said first composition and/or in the said second composition.
  • the cosmetic assembly may comprise one or more silicones.
  • the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydi- methylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from aryl groups, amino groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene groups.
  • PDMSs polydi- methylsiloxanes
  • organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from aryl groups, amino groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene groups.
  • Silicones are especially defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or nonvolatile, and may be in the form of oils, gums or resins; silicone oils and gums are preferred.
  • the silicones When they are volatile, the silicones may be more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V 2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione® 70045 V 5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
  • Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsilox- ane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with or- ganosilicon compounds such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythrito
  • Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes polyorganosiloxanes modified with the organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof.
  • These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which men- tion may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to Standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s;
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • Products that can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
  • organomodified silicones that may be used in the present invention are especially silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphen- ylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 *10 "5 to 5x10 "2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • oils of the SF series from General Electric such as SF 1023, SF 1 154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
  • organomodified silicones of polyorganosi- loxanes comprising:
  • substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee.
  • the substituted amine groups are in particular C1 -C4 aminoalkyl groups;
  • the silicones are not organomodified.
  • the silicones are generally present in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition comprising them.
  • the silicones are present in the second composition.
  • the cosmetic assembly may also comprise one or more fatty esters that are solid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25°C, 1 atm).
  • these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms and of saturated fatty monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms.
  • the saturated acids or monoalcohols may be linear or branched.
  • the saturated carboxylic acids preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.
  • the saturated fatty monoalcohols preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty esters are chosen from myristyl myristate, cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the solid fatty esters may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight and especially from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition comprising them.
  • the solid fatty esters are present in the second composition.
  • the cosmetic assembly may also comprise one or more fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25°C, 1 atm), other than the silicones described above. They may especially be chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, plant oils of triglyceride type, synthetic triglycerides, fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • Liquid fatty alcohols in particular those of Cio-C3 4 , preferably containing branched carbon-based chains or bearing one or more, preferably 1 to 3, unsaturations. They are preferably branched and/or unsaturated, and comprise from 12 to 40 carbon atoms; and are non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated.
  • R-OH in which R preferably denotes a branched C12-C24 alkyl or C12-C24 alkenyl group, R possibly being substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • the liquid fatty alcohol of the invention is a branched saturated alcohol.
  • R does not contain any hydroxyl groups.
  • Examples that may especially be mentioned include oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1 -dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1 -decanol, 2-decyl-1 -tetradecanol and 2-tetradecyl-1 - cetanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1 - dodecanol.
  • the liquid fatty esters may be esters of monoalcohols or of polyols with monoacids or polyacids, at least one of the alcohols and/or acids comprising at least one chain of more than 7 carbon atoms.
  • the liquid fatty ester according to the invention is chosen from fatty acid esters of monoalcohols.
  • at least one of the alcohols and/or acids is branched.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate and 2- octyldodecyl myristate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the C6-C16 hydrocarbons may be linear or branched, and optionally cyclic, and are preferably alkanes. Mention may be made of hexane, dodecane or isoparaf- fins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane.
  • a hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhy- drosqualene.
  • the triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance hep- tanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, pracaxi oil, argan oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearin- eries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
  • the linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Par- leam®.
  • the fluoro oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro- 1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1 ,2-dimethylcyclobutane; per- fluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold especially under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bro- moperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nona- fluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-thfluoronnethylperfluoronnorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
  • the non-silicone liquid fatty substances may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 % to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition comprising them.
  • the non-silicone liquid fatty substances are present in the second composition.
  • the cosmetic assembly may also comprise one or more thickeners.
  • thickener means an agent which, when introduced at 1 % by weight in an aqueous solution or an aqueous-alcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol, and at pH 7, makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 mPa.s (100 cPs) and preferably of at least 500 mPa.s (500 cPs), at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s ⁇ 1 .
  • This viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or the like).
  • the thickeners may be chosen from fatty acid amides obtained from C10-C30 car- boxylic acid such as coconut acid monoisopropanolamide, diethanolamide or monoethanolamide, monoethanolamide of ethoxylated carboxylic alkyl ether acid, preferably nonionic cellulose-based thickeners such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hy- droxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof such as hydroxypropyl guar, gums of microbial origin such as xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, crosslinked homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and associative polymers, especially acrylic associative polymers or polyurethanes, as described below.
  • C10-C30 car- boxylic acid such as coconut acid monoisopropanolamide, diethanolamide or monoethanolamide
  • the associative polymers that may be used according to the invention are water- soluble or water-dispersible polymers which, in an aqueous medium, are capable of reversible association with each other or with other molecules.
  • Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • They may be of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic type, for instance the polymers sold under the names Pemulen TR1 or TR2 by the company Goodrich, the INCI name of which is Acrylates/CI O-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Salcare SC90 by the company Ciba, Aculyn 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company Rohm & Haas, and Elfacos T210 and T212 by the company Akzo.
  • Pemulen TR1 or TR2 by the company Goodrich
  • Salcare SC90 by the company Ciba
  • Aculyn 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company Rohm & Haas
  • Elfacos T210 and T212 by the company Akzo.
  • nonionic cellulose-based thickeners such as hydroxyethylcellulose, associative polyurethanes, optionally hydroxyalkylated guar gums, and xanthan gum.
  • the thickeners may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 % to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition compris- ing them.
  • the thickeners are present in the first composition.
  • the cosmetic assembly may also comprise one or more water-soluble salts.
  • water-soluble refers to a compound having, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm), a solubility in water of greater than or equal to 1 % and preferably greater than or equal to 2.5% by weight.
  • the water-soluble salts according to the invention are not ionic surfactants, and are therefore different from the anionic surfactants of the invention.
  • the mineral or organic water-soluble salts that may be used are preferably chosen from water-soluble salts of monovalent or divalent metals, for example of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, or of ammonium or amines; and of mineral acids or organic carboxylic acids whose anion comprises from 1 to 7 carbon atoms.
  • the salts of monovalent metals are used. Mention may be made especially, alone or as a mixture, of sodium chloride, potassium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, ammonium chloride, monoethanolamine chloride, sodium citrate, ammonium citrate, magnesium sulfate and the sodium salts of phosphoric acid. Sodium chloride and/or calcium chloride is preferentially used.
  • the water-soluble salts may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better still from 1 % to 20% by weight, even better still from 2% to 15% by weight and preferentially from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.
  • the cosmetic assembly may also comprise one or more nonionic surfactants.
  • They may be chosen from alcohols, a-diols and (Ci_2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or having a fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly rang- ing especially from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30.
  • polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from
  • (C6-24 alkyl)polyglycosides and more particularly (C8-18 al- kyl)polyglycosides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, polyethoxylated fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof are used.
  • the nonionic surfactants may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.
  • the said first and/or second compositions constituting the cosmetic assembly ac- cording to the invention may comprise, besides water, at least one organic solvent, which may be chosen from Ci-C 4 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert- butanol or n-butanol; and/or polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols.
  • Ci-C 4 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert- butanol or n-butanol
  • polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols.
  • the pH of each of the compositions according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 8, preferably from 3 to 7 or even from 4 to 7.
  • Each of the said first and second compositions may also comprise common cosmetic additives, chosen especially from anionic polymers, nonionic polymers; nacreous agents, opacifiers, dyes, pigments, fragrances, vitamins, UV-screening agents, free-radical scavengers, antidandruff agents, preserving agents, pH stabilizers, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • common cosmetic additives chosen especially from anionic polymers, nonionic polymers; nacreous agents, opacifiers, dyes, pigments, fragrances, vitamins, UV-screening agents, free-radical scavengers, antidandruff agents, preserving agents, pH stabilizers, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprising the cationic and/or anionic polymer(s), namely the said first composition does not comprise any (0%) or comprises substantially no (especially less than 1 % by weight) fatty substance, whether it is sili- cone-based or carbon-based, solid or liquid.
  • the cosmetic assembly according to the invention finds a particular application in the field of haircare, especially for washing, caring for and/or conditioning the hair; the application of the compositions constituting it to the hair may or may not be followed by an optional leave-on time and/or optional rinsing.
  • compositions constituting the said cosmetic assembly according to the invention may especially be performed before and/or after shampooing, dyeing, in particular oxidation dyeing, permanent-waving or relaxing the hair, or any other hair treatment.
  • the cosmetic assembly may be used especially for caring for and/or conditioning the hair.
  • each of the compositions constituting the cosmetic assembly may be conditioned in any form that may be envisaged for this type of formulation, especially in a bottle, a pump-dispenser bottle, a heating bag, a tube or an aerosol. Both packagings may be completely separated and grouped for example in a pack or blister pack. They may also be joined as in the case of a double tube or a double aerosol, with a double distribution system or with a distribution system that pre-mixes the two compositions.
  • the said first and second compositions may be conditioned in the same container, but in non-mixed form; such a container may especially be a tube with a separating internal wall or an aerosol with pouches.
  • the said first and second compositions may also be injected in the same con- tainer, such that they cannot be mixed together, especially by adapting their viscosities.
  • the method for conditioning the cosmetic assembly may be coupled to an applicator device such as a comb or a brush.
  • Another subject of the invention is thus a device for conditioning the above cos- metic assembly, in which the said first and second compositions are conditioned in separate or joined containers.
  • Another subject of the invention is also a device for conditioning the above cosmetic assembly, in which the said first and second compositions are conditioned in the same container, but in non-mixed form.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic treatment process, especially a haircare process, most particularly for washing, caring for and/or conditioning keratin materials, especially keratin fibres, most particularly the hair, which consists in applying to the said keratin materials the said first and second composi- tions forming the cosmetic assembly as described above, in a consecutive manner, and then in optionally rinsing (only at the end), for example with water, after an optional leave-on time.
  • rinsing is performed after an optional leave- on time.
  • the said cosmetic treatment process may consist in: (a) applying to the said keratin materials, especially the hair, the said first composition comprising at least one cationic polymer as defined above, and then, after an optional leave-on time, (b) applying consecutively, without intermediate rinsing, the said second composition comprising at least one anionic surfactant and at least one solid fatty alcohol, and then optionally rinsing, for example with water, after an optional leave-on time.
  • This consecutive application method leads to very good cosmetic performance qualities.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • anionic surfactants such that at least 50% by weight of them com- prise fatty chains with a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 14, especially between 14 and 30, or even between 16 and 22 carbon atoms,
  • the said anionic surfactants are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the said solid fatty alcohols are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferentially from 1 % to 25% by weight and better still from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the said cationic or amphoteric polymers, or mixtures thereof, are preferably pre- sent in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the said water-soluble salts are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better still from 1 % to 20% by weight, even better still from 2% to 15% by weight and preferentially from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the said nonionic surfactants are preferably present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the said cosmetic composition may also comprise one or more silicones, which may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • It may also comprise one or more fatty esters that are solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm), which may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • It may also comprise one or more liquid fatty substances, other than the silicones described above, and which may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 % to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the said cosmetic composition is preferably aqueous. It may thus comprise water and optionally at least one organic solvent, which may be chosen from Ci-C 4 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; and/or polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols. Preferably, it comprises from 70% to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Ci-C 4 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol
  • polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols.
  • it comprises from 70% to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • pH is preferably between 3 and 8 and better still between 4 and 7.
  • the said cosmetic composition may also comprise additives chosen from anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, polymeric or non-polymeric thickeners, nacreous agents, opacifiers, dyes, pigments, fragrances, vitamins, UV-screening agents, free-radical scavengers, antidandruff agents, preserving agents, pH stabilizers, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • additives chosen from anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, polymeric or non-polymeric thickeners, nacreous agents, opacifiers, dyes, pigments, fragrances, vitamins, UV-screening agents, free-radical scavengers, antidandruff agents, preserving agents, pH stabilizers, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • additives are generally present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions may be conditioned in various forms, especially in bottles, in pump bottles or in aerosol containers so as to apply the composition in va- porized form or in the form of a mousse.
  • the compositions may also impregnate applicators, especially gloves or wipes.
  • composition according to the invention may be applied after dyeing, in particular oxidation dyeing, permanent-waving or relaxing the hair, or any other haircare treatment.
  • the composition may be applied after dyeing, in particular oxidation dyeing.
  • composition according to the invention may be in the form of a rinse-out or leave-in haircare composition, especially for washing, caring for and/or conditioning the hair; for example in the form of a shampoo or, most particularly, in the form of a rinse-out or leave-in haircare composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, especially a haircare process, most particularly for conditioning keratin materials, especially keratin fibres, most particularly the hair, which consists in applying a composition as described above to the said keratin materials, and in optionally rinsing, for example with water, after an optional leave-on time.
  • rinsing is performed after an optional leave-on time.
  • compositions below were prepared (weight%, concentration of the commercial starting materials):
  • Example 1 is a cosmetic assembly according to the invention comprising, firstly, composition A (first composition) and, secondly, composition B (second composition), conditioned separately;
  • the comparative compositions are one-phase compositions.
  • Comparative 1 g of comparative composition A or of comparative composition B is applied to 2.5 g SA20 bleached locks.
  • composition A1 mixed with 0.5 g of composition B is applied to 2.5 g SA20 bleached locks.
  • Example 2 After a leave-on time of 5 minutes at 25°C, the locks are rinsed. It is found that the locks treated according to the invention (Example 1 ) are sleeker and more supple than the comparative locks. Example 2
  • composition A a composition A
  • composition B a composition B
  • compositions A and B may be either mixed together before application, or applied successively, to obtain the desired result.
  • compositions A (first composition):
  • compositions B (second composition):
  • composition A A2 to A7 mixed with 0.5 g of composition B (B2 to B12) is applied to 2.5 g SA20 bleached locks. After a leave-on time of 5 minutes, the locks are rinsed. It is observed that the locks are sleek and supple.
  • composition A (A2 to A7) and then 0.5 g of composition B (B2 to B12) may also be applied successively to 2.5 g SA20 bleached locks. After a leave-on time of 5 minutes, the locks are rinsed. It is again observed that the locks are sleek and supple.
  • the hair conditioning compositions below were prepared (weight%, concentration of the commercial starting materials):
  • the locks to which the compositions of the invention were applied are sleeker and more supple than the locks to which the comparative composition was applied.
  • the hair conditioning compositions below were prepared (weight%, concentration of the commercial starting materials):
  • the hair conditioning compositions below were prepared (weight%, concentration of the commercial starting materials):

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un ensemble cosmétique comprenant au moins deux compositions cosmétiques, qui sont différentes l'une de l'autre, une première composition aqueuse comprenant au moins un polymère cationique et/ou au moins un polymère amphotère ; et une seconde composition aqueuse comprenant au moins un tensio-actif anionique et au moins un alcool gras solide. La présente invention concerne également une composition cosmétique, pour traiter en particulier les cheveux, comprenant au moins un tensio-actif anionique à longue chaîne, au moins un alcool gras solide, au moins un polymère amphotère ou cationique, au moins un tensio-actif non ionique et au moins un sel hydrosoluble. L'invention concerne également une méthode de traitement cosmétique, pour traiter en particulier les cheveux à l'aide dudit ensemble cosmétique ou de ladite composition cosmétique, et également un dispositif de conditionnement dudit ensemble cosmétique.
PCT/EP2013/069233 2012-09-18 2013-09-17 Ensemble cosmétique et composition cosmétique comprenant un tensio-actif anionique, un alcool gras solide et un polymère cationique, procédé de traitement cosmétique et dispositif de conditionnement WO2014044660A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (8)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1258721A FR2995527B1 (fr) 2012-09-18 2012-09-18 Composition cosmetique comprenant un tensioactif anionique, un alcool gras solide, un polymere amphotere ou cationique, un tensioactif non io-nique et un sel hydrosoluble
FR1258723 2012-09-18
FR1258723A FR2995529B1 (fr) 2012-09-18 2012-09-18 Ensemble cosmetique, procede de traitement cosmetique et dispositif de conditionnement
FR1258721 2012-09-18
US201261737906P 2012-12-17 2012-12-17
US201261737910P 2012-12-17 2012-12-17
US61/737,910 2012-12-17
US61/737,906 2012-12-17

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WO2014044660A1 true WO2014044660A1 (fr) 2014-03-27

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Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001039735A1 (fr) * 1999-12-02 2001-06-07 The Procter & Gamble Company Composition de shampoing conditionneur
WO2003047540A1 (fr) * 2001-11-30 2003-06-12 The Procter & Gamble Company Shampooing contenant un alkyl ether
WO2010052092A1 (fr) * 2008-11-07 2010-05-14 Unilever Plc Composition de shampooing conditionneur comprenant un gel conditionneur aqueux
WO2010149425A2 (fr) * 2009-06-24 2010-12-29 Unilever Plc Shampooing concentré
WO2010149460A2 (fr) * 2009-06-24 2010-12-29 Unilever Plc Composition
WO2011134832A2 (fr) * 2010-04-30 2011-11-03 Unilever Plc Composition
WO2012004126A2 (fr) * 2010-07-08 2012-01-12 Unilever Plc Composition de soins pour les cheveux

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001039735A1 (fr) * 1999-12-02 2001-06-07 The Procter & Gamble Company Composition de shampoing conditionneur
WO2003047540A1 (fr) * 2001-11-30 2003-06-12 The Procter & Gamble Company Shampooing contenant un alkyl ether
WO2010052092A1 (fr) * 2008-11-07 2010-05-14 Unilever Plc Composition de shampooing conditionneur comprenant un gel conditionneur aqueux
WO2010149425A2 (fr) * 2009-06-24 2010-12-29 Unilever Plc Shampooing concentré
WO2010149460A2 (fr) * 2009-06-24 2010-12-29 Unilever Plc Composition
WO2011134832A2 (fr) * 2010-04-30 2011-11-03 Unilever Plc Composition
WO2012004126A2 (fr) * 2010-07-08 2012-01-12 Unilever Plc Composition de soins pour les cheveux

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