WO2013041910A1 - Device for supporting natural and/or artificial stones and method for making jewellery or costume jewellery items - Google Patents

Device for supporting natural and/or artificial stones and method for making jewellery or costume jewellery items Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013041910A1
WO2013041910A1 PCT/IB2011/054169 IB2011054169W WO2013041910A1 WO 2013041910 A1 WO2013041910 A1 WO 2013041910A1 IB 2011054169 W IB2011054169 W IB 2011054169W WO 2013041910 A1 WO2013041910 A1 WO 2013041910A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
seat
support
support device
setting element
support element
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2011/054169
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Katharina KERSCHBAUMER
Original Assignee
Kerschbaumer Katharina
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Kerschbaumer Katharina filed Critical Kerschbaumer Katharina
Priority to PCT/IB2011/054169 priority Critical patent/WO2013041910A1/en
Priority to EP11776024.9A priority patent/EP2757920A1/en
Publication of WO2013041910A1 publication Critical patent/WO2013041910A1/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • A44C17/0208—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations removable
    • A44C17/0216—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations removable with automatic locking action, e.g. by using a spring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools

Definitions

  • the object of the present invention is a device for supporting natural and/or artificial stones and a method for making jewellery or costume jewellery items.
  • jewellery and costume jewellery items such as rings, necklaces, earrings, pendants, bracelets, and the like.
  • Another problem is the firm fixing of the stone on the support device over time, a problem that is obviously more important when the stone fixed thereon is a precious stone.
  • the various stresses and wear that the metal of the support device experiences over time result in the grip on the precious stone to be loosened, and thereby the precious stone may fall from the support device and get lost.
  • Another drawback of the metal support devices, particularly with rings is that they cannot be customized to the wearer's size, but require to be made in various sizes or be further processed to be either enlarged or reduced. In addition, further adjustment operations are required due to the wearer's finger diameter changing over time.
  • the object of the present invention is to overcome the above-mentioned drawbacks.
  • Fig. 1 shows an exploded view, with a sectional and partially illustrated element, a support device for stones according to the invention without a stone set thereon;
  • Fig. 2 shows an axial section of an element of the support device in Fig.
  • Fig. 3 is a top view of the element in Fig. 2;
  • Fig. 4 is a bottom view of the detail in Fig. 2;
  • Fig. 5 shows the device in Fig.1 with a stone set thereon
  • Fig. 6 shows the jewellery item with a stone thereon made by means of the device in Fig.1.
  • the support device illustrated in the figures has an annular configuration in order to provide a ring having a precious stone set thereon.
  • This support device generally designated with 10, and partially illustrated in section in Figs. 1 ,5, comprises an annular-shaped support element 11 made from silicone rubber.
  • a through axial seat 12 is provided, which is suitable to receive a setting element 13.
  • This support element 11 with the seat 12 thereof can be made by moulding.
  • the setting element is illustrated in detail in Figs. 2,3,4, where it is generally designated with 13.
  • This setting element 13 is made from a ductile material, for example a noble metal such as silver.
  • the element 13 comprises a base 14 having a truncated-circle section (seen in Fig. 4) and having a convex bottom 15. From the base 14, a cylindrical shaft 16 is extended having a diameter lower than that of the base 14. The shaft 16 ends with a head 17 from which two counter-posed claws 18 are extended.
  • This setting element 13 can be made by means of machining.
  • the seat 12 has a base portion 19 having a plan profile similar to the plan profile of the base 14 of the setting element 13 (see the plan profiles overlapping in Fig. 4), an cylinder-shaped intermediate portion 20 equal to that of the shaft 16 of the setting element 13, and a cylinder-shaped upper portion 21 suitable to enclose the head 17 with the claws 18 of the setting element 13.
  • the ring with precious stone is provided as follows. The precious stone is first set in the setting element 13. This operation is simply carried out by setting the precious stone between the claws 18 of the setting element 13 and by inwardly folding the claws 18 such as to hold the precious stone in the head 17.
  • the setting element 13 with the stone set thereon is subsequently inserted by snap-fitting in the support element 11 such that the base 14, the shaft 16 and the head 17 of the setting element 13 are perfectly inserted within the corresponding portions 19,20,21 of the seat 12 of the support element 11 , such as illustrated in Fig. 5 where the precious stone is designated with S.
  • the final result, as illustrated in Fig. 6, is a jewellery item consisting of a silicone rubber ring R with the precious stone S set thereon.
  • the size of the portions 19 and 21 of the seat 12 are such that the assembly consisting of the setting element 13 and the stone S is hold within the seat 12.
  • the support device as described and illustrated above has a number of advantages.
  • the processing of the thus-made jewellery item does not require an extensive manual labour because the manufacture of the support element is carried out by moulding and the manufacture of the setting element is mechanically carried out by means of machining.
  • the operator as stated above, after the precious stone S has been placed within the head 17 of the setting element 13, is simply required to bend the claws 18 and then snap-fit the setting element 13 with the stone S into the seat 12 of the support element 11. This results in low processing costs and accordingly in a lower cost of the finished jewellery item.
  • Another advantage is that the stone is firmly fixed on the support device over time, which is ensured by the snap coupling between the setting element 13 and the seat 12 of the silicone rubber support element 11.
  • the asymmetric shape of the base 14 of the setting element 13 and the corresponding shape of the base portion 19 of the support element 11 prevent the setting element 13 from rotating about the axis thereof and accordingly a possible wear of these elements, which could compromise the fixing of the stone to the support device.
  • the setting element 13 with the stone S remaining within the seat 12 protects this assembly from any external stress thereby making the fixing even firmer.
  • the resiliency of the silicone rubber making the support element 11 allows to adjust the ring to fingers of varying diameters or to variations of a same finger over time.
  • the silicone rubber is a hypo-allergenic wear-resistant material, pleasing to touch and sight, and hence suitable to make jewellery and costume jewellery items to be worn.
  • the ductile material composing the setting element allows an easy plastic deformation of the claws and a firm and durable grip of the precious stone.
  • the support device can be of any shape, in order to make other jewellery or costume jewellery items such as necklaces, earrings, pendants, bracelets, and the like, by setting one or more precious and/or non-precious stones.
  • Several stones can be set in the support device, with one or more setting elements.
  • An elastic material can be used other than silicone rubber, as long as it has similar characteristics for the construction of the support element: a polyurethane material called "Technogel®", sold by Technogel Italia S.r.l. of Pozzoleone (Vicenza)(IT) is particularly suitable to the purpose.
  • the setting element seat can be also provided in a suitable insert that is separately made, which insert being embedded in the support element and which can be made from a material other than this support element material.
  • Silver as the noble metal material can be also replaced by another type of ductile material which is not necessarily metallic and not necessarily noble.
  • the noble metal material is particularly suitable both for its ductility and for the added value it gives to the jewellery item.
  • the setting element shape can be also changed and generally any type of means can be generally provided which prevents the setting element from rotating within the seat of the support element.
  • This can be a coupling with asymmetrical shapes, with shapes having one or more edges or the like.

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  • Adornments (AREA)

Abstract

In order to support natural and/or artificial stones for the making of jewellery or costume jewellery items, a support element (11) is provided, which has an elastically yielding seat (12), as well as a setting element (13) with a portion of ductile material for holding one or more stones and with a coupling portion with an interlocking profile which is coupled by means of elastic yielding to the seat (12) of the support element (11). Thereby, low processing costs, a firm fixing of the stone and an adaptability to varying sizes are achieved.

Description

DEVICE FOR SUPPORTING NATURAL AND/OR ARTIFICIAL STONES AND METHOD FOR MAKING JEWELLERY OR COSTUME JEWELLERY ITEMS DESCRIPTION
The object of the present invention is a device for supporting natural and/or artificial stones and a method for making jewellery or costume jewellery items.
From time immemorial, jewellery and costume jewellery items, such as rings, necklaces, earrings, pendants, bracelets, and the like, are made.
Modern techniques for making jewellery and costume jewellery items make use of complex processing machines and equipment. Manual work is nevertheless substantial, thereby resulting in high processing costs. Particularly, the preparation and shaping of the support device for the stone/s, which is normally made from metal, and the setting of the stone/s in the support device requires a considerable work by a skilled operator for each operation (forging, bending, soldering, setting, etc.) as required by the processing.
Another problem is the firm fixing of the stone on the support device over time, a problem that is obviously more important when the stone fixed thereon is a precious stone. In fact, the various stresses and wear that the metal of the support device experiences over time result in the grip on the precious stone to be loosened, and thereby the precious stone may fall from the support device and get lost. Another drawback of the metal support devices, particularly with rings, is that they cannot be customized to the wearer's size, but require to be made in various sizes or be further processed to be either enlarged or reduced. In addition, further adjustment operations are required due to the wearer's finger diameter changing over time.
The object of the present invention is to overcome the above-mentioned drawbacks.
This object is achieved by means of a support device and a method in accordance with claims 1 and 15, respectively.
For a better understanding of the invention, a description of a non-limiting example of the latter will be given below, and illustrated in the annexed drawings in which:
Fig. 1 shows an exploded view, with a sectional and partially illustrated element, a support device for stones according to the invention without a stone set thereon;
Fig. 2 shows an axial section of an element of the support device in Fig.
1 ;
Fig. 3 is a top view of the element in Fig. 2;
Fig. 4 is a bottom view of the detail in Fig. 2;
Fig. 5 shows the device in Fig.1 with a stone set thereon;
Fig. 6 shows the jewellery item with a stone thereon made by means of the device in Fig.1.
The support device illustrated in the figures has an annular configuration in order to provide a ring having a precious stone set thereon.
This support device, generally designated with 10, and partially illustrated in section in Figs. 1 ,5, comprises an annular-shaped support element 11 made from silicone rubber. In the support element 11 , a through axial seat 12 is provided, which is suitable to receive a setting element 13. This support element 11 with the seat 12 thereof can be made by moulding.
The setting element is illustrated in detail in Figs. 2,3,4, where it is generally designated with 13. This setting element 13 is made from a ductile material, for example a noble metal such as silver. The element 13 comprises a base 14 having a truncated-circle section (seen in Fig. 4) and having a convex bottom 15. From the base 14, a cylindrical shaft 16 is extended having a diameter lower than that of the base 14. The shaft 16 ends with a head 17 from which two counter-posed claws 18 are extended. This setting element 13 can be made by means of machining.
Accordingly, the seat 12 has a base portion 19 having a plan profile similar to the plan profile of the base 14 of the setting element 13 (see the plan profiles overlapping in Fig. 4), an cylinder-shaped intermediate portion 20 equal to that of the shaft 16 of the setting element 13, and a cylinder-shaped upper portion 21 suitable to enclose the head 17 with the claws 18 of the setting element 13. The ring with precious stone is provided as follows. The precious stone is first set in the setting element 13. This operation is simply carried out by setting the precious stone between the claws 18 of the setting element 13 and by inwardly folding the claws 18 such as to hold the precious stone in the head 17. The setting element 13 with the stone set thereon is subsequently inserted by snap-fitting in the support element 11 such that the base 14, the shaft 16 and the head 17 of the setting element 13 are perfectly inserted within the corresponding portions 19,20,21 of the seat 12 of the support element 11 , such as illustrated in Fig. 5 where the precious stone is designated with S.
The final result, as illustrated in Fig. 6, is a jewellery item consisting of a silicone rubber ring R with the precious stone S set thereon.
The size of the portions 19 and 21 of the seat 12 are such that the assembly consisting of the setting element 13 and the stone S is hold within the seat 12.
The support device as described and illustrated above has a number of advantages.
Firstly, the processing of the thus-made jewellery item does not require an extensive manual labour because the manufacture of the support element is carried out by moulding and the manufacture of the setting element is mechanically carried out by means of machining. The operator, as stated above, after the precious stone S has been placed within the head 17 of the setting element 13, is simply required to bend the claws 18 and then snap-fit the setting element 13 with the stone S into the seat 12 of the support element 11. This results in low processing costs and accordingly in a lower cost of the finished jewellery item.
Another advantage is that the stone is firmly fixed on the support device over time, which is ensured by the snap coupling between the setting element 13 and the seat 12 of the silicone rubber support element 11. The asymmetric shape of the base 14 of the setting element 13 and the corresponding shape of the base portion 19 of the support element 11 prevent the setting element 13 from rotating about the axis thereof and accordingly a possible wear of these elements, which could compromise the fixing of the stone to the support device.
The setting element 13 with the stone S remaining within the seat 12 protects this assembly from any external stress thereby making the fixing even firmer.
The resiliency of the silicone rubber making the support element 11 allows to adjust the ring to fingers of varying diameters or to variations of a same finger over time. The silicone rubber is a hypo-allergenic wear-resistant material, pleasing to touch and sight, and hence suitable to make jewellery and costume jewellery items to be worn. The ductile material composing the setting element allows an easy plastic deformation of the claws and a firm and durable grip of the precious stone.
It is understood that variations and/or additions can be provided to what has been described and illustrated above.
Particularly, the support device can be of any shape, in order to make other jewellery or costume jewellery items such as necklaces, earrings, pendants, bracelets, and the like, by setting one or more precious and/or non-precious stones.
Several stones can be set in the support device, with one or more setting elements. An elastic material can be used other than silicone rubber, as long as it has similar characteristics for the construction of the support element: a polyurethane material called "Technogel®", sold by Technogel Italia S.r.l. of Pozzoleone (Vicenza)(IT) is particularly suitable to the purpose. The setting element seat can be also provided in a suitable insert that is separately made, which insert being embedded in the support element and which can be made from a material other than this support element material.
Silver as the noble metal material can be also replaced by another type of ductile material which is not necessarily metallic and not necessarily noble. However, the noble metal material is particularly suitable both for its ductility and for the added value it gives to the jewellery item.
The setting element shape can be also changed and generally any type of means can be generally provided which prevents the setting element from rotating within the seat of the support element. This can be a coupling with asymmetrical shapes, with shapes having one or more edges or the like.

Claims

1. A support device (10) for natural and/or artificial stones for making jewellery or costume jewellery items, comprising at least one shaped support element (11) and at least one setting element (13) for one or more of said stones to be set therein, characterized in that said support element (11) comprises at least one elastically yielding seat (12) and that said setting element (13) comprises at least one portion (18) of ductile material for holding one or more stones and at least one coupling portions (14) with an interlocking profile for elastic yielding coupling to the seat (12) of the support element (11).
2. The support device according to claim 1 , wherein coupling means (14,19) are provided, which prevent the setting element (13) from rotating within the seat (12) of the support element (11).
3. The support device according to claim 2, wherein said means comprise profiles of the seat (12) of the support element (11) and of the setting element (13) which have such a geometric shape as to prevent said rotation.
4. The support device according to claim 3, wherein said profiles are asymmetrical.
5. The support device according to claim 2 or 3, wherein said profile has at least one edge.
6. The support device according to any preceding claim, wherein the setting element (13) comprises a base (14) from which a shaft (16) extends, which ends with a head (17) with claws (18) that can be bent to accommodate and hold the stone.
7. The support device according to claim 6, wherein the base (14) of the setting element (13) has a plan profile of a truncated circle and the seat (12) of the support element (11) has the same plan profile at said base (14).
8. The support device according to any preceding claim, wherein the seat (12) of the support element (11) has an axial size higher than that of the setting element (13) such that the assembly consisting of the setting element (13) and the stone results to be within said seat (12).
9. The support device according to any preceding claim, wherein the seat (12) of the support element (11 ) is a through-seat.
10. The support device according to any preceding claim, wherein said support element (11) is made from silicone rubber.
11. The support device according to any preceding claim, wherein said support element (11) is made from a polyurethane material called "Technogel®".
12. The support device according to any preceding claim, wherein said seat is provided within an insert embedded in the support element.
13. The support device according to claim 12, wherein said support element and said insert are made from different materials relative to each other.
14. The support device according to any preceding claim, wherein said setting element (13) is made from a noble metal.
15. A method for making jewellery or costume jewellery items including natural and/or artificial stones comprising:
- arranging at least one shaped support element (11) comprising at least one elastically yielding seat (12);
- arranging at least one setting element (13) comprising at least one portion (18) of a ductile material for holding one or more stones and at least one portion (14) for coupling to the seat (12) of the support element (11); setting the stone in the portion (18) of ductile material of the setting element (13) by means of deformation of the ductile material;
- coupling the coupling portion (14) of the setting element (13) to the seat (12) of the support element (11) by means of elastic yielding interlocking.
PCT/IB2011/054169 2011-09-22 2011-09-22 Device for supporting natural and/or artificial stones and method for making jewellery or costume jewellery items WO2013041910A1 (en)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/IB2011/054169 WO2013041910A1 (en) 2011-09-22 2011-09-22 Device for supporting natural and/or artificial stones and method for making jewellery or costume jewellery items
EP11776024.9A EP2757920A1 (en) 2011-09-22 2011-09-22 Device for supporting natural and/or artificial stones and method for making jewellery or costume jewellery items

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/IB2011/054169 WO2013041910A1 (en) 2011-09-22 2011-09-22 Device for supporting natural and/or artificial stones and method for making jewellery or costume jewellery items

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WO2013041910A1 true WO2013041910A1 (en) 2013-03-28

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3002418A1 (en) * 2013-02-28 2014-08-29 Hocean3 Sas Piece of jewelry e.g. ring, has mounting part with opening in which crimp-close part is inserted in removable manner, where crimp-close part is insertable and withdrawable from mounting part without using any tool
WO2016120712A1 (en) * 2015-01-30 2016-08-04 Chopard Technologies Sa Movable decorative elements

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US836479A (en) * 1906-07-31 1906-11-20 Allen Mcnerney And Company Jewel-setting.
US20070094776A1 (en) * 2005-10-31 2007-05-03 Dee Stevens Decorative strap system
WO2008017396A1 (en) * 2006-08-07 2008-02-14 Fonda F. Lli S.P.A. Safety clasps and connection means for ornamental items
DE102007056702A1 (en) * 2007-11-24 2009-05-28 Richard Seidenbusch Photoluminescent crystal stone straddling or cartridge dowel, has crystal stones with or without additional reflectors, and photoluminescent pigment storage lying under stone in solid matrix

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US836479A (en) * 1906-07-31 1906-11-20 Allen Mcnerney And Company Jewel-setting.
US20070094776A1 (en) * 2005-10-31 2007-05-03 Dee Stevens Decorative strap system
WO2008017396A1 (en) * 2006-08-07 2008-02-14 Fonda F. Lli S.P.A. Safety clasps and connection means for ornamental items
DE102007056702A1 (en) * 2007-11-24 2009-05-28 Richard Seidenbusch Photoluminescent crystal stone straddling or cartridge dowel, has crystal stones with or without additional reflectors, and photoluminescent pigment storage lying under stone in solid matrix

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3002418A1 (en) * 2013-02-28 2014-08-29 Hocean3 Sas Piece of jewelry e.g. ring, has mounting part with opening in which crimp-close part is inserted in removable manner, where crimp-close part is insertable and withdrawable from mounting part without using any tool
WO2016120712A1 (en) * 2015-01-30 2016-08-04 Chopard Technologies Sa Movable decorative elements

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