WO2013013864A1

WO2013013864A1 - Process for individualized hair treatment

Info

Publication number: WO2013013864A1
Application number: PCT/EP2012/060041
Authority: WO
Inventors: Dirk Petersohn; Melanie Giesen
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2011-07-22
Filing date: 2012-05-29
Publication date: 2013-01-31
Also published as: DE102011079661A1

Abstract

A process for individualized hair treatment, in which e) at least one individual hair is obtained by plucking from hairy skin from a person with retention of the hair follicle for extracorporeal analysis of hair follicle cells and f) the at least one hair follicle is analysed for the expression of at least one hair-specific factor and g) the actual value of at least one hair-specific factor is compared with predefined target values and h) the hair of the person is treated with cosmetic compositions which improve at least one hair-specific factor, allows rapid and painless sampling, external laboratory analysis and communication of the results with product recommendations, and is suitable for distinctly improving customer connection to the business (pharmacy, hair salon, etc.).

Description

"Method of individualized hair treatment"

The invention relates to a method for individualized hair treatment, which allows a targeted cosmetic treatment.

Well-groomed, full hair is a consumer need across all cultures and age ranges. An almost infinite variety of hair cosmetic products wants to satisfy this consumer need, but this diversity also leads to uncertainty among consumers, which product is best suited for his hair and his desired appearance.

There is therefore a need to enable the consumer, beyond marketing promises, to choose a product specially tailored to his hair. So far, research methods on the individual are reserved for medical research because they are either too time-consuming and therefore too expensive or require too much sample substance (= hair). An individual, reliable and also beyond medicine applicable method to judge the hair of a consumer and to offer targeted products based on the assessment does not exist in the cosmetic mass market.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a method which enables a cost-effective and individual assessment of the hair condition and can make proposals for products depending on the evaluation. The procedure should be feasible for the customer quickly and without significant adverse effects (pain, loss of large amounts of hair, time consuming) and also by non-medical personnel (sales assistants, hairdressers, etc.) can be performed.

It has now been found that a quick and painless sampling, an external laboratory examination and a communication of the results with product recommendations not only solves the above-mentioned tasks, but is also suitable, the customer loyalty to the business (drugstore, hairdressing, etc.) significantly improve.

The present invention is in a first embodiment, a method for individualized hair treatment, characterized in that a) for hair color to obtain the hair follicle from hairy skin of an individual by plucking wins and b) examining the at least one hair follicle on the expression of at least one hair-specific factor and for extracorporeal analysis of hair follicle cells

c) comparing the actual value of at least one hair-specific factor with predetermined target values, and

d) treating the hair of the individual with cosmetic agents that enhance at least one hair-specific factor.

In a first step of the method according to the invention, at least one hair is obtained by plucking to obtain the hair follicle from the hairy skin of an individual. This allows the later extracorporeal analysis of hair follicle cells. Since only one or a few hairs are plucked, this process step is painless for the customer, can be carried out quickly and does not lead to an impairment of the external appearance. This step can be done by a hairdresser, a salesman or by the test person himself.

The hair or hair follicle cells can then be subjected to the examination. This can be done in a simple handover, but it is also possible to transfer the samples in a suitable packaging and then bring to the examination site or to ship. In this way, sampling and examination can be decoupled spatially and temporally, even a transmission of samples by the customer itself can be done in this way.

In a second step, the at least one hair follicle is examined for the expression of at least one hair-specific factor. In the method preferred according to the invention, the investigation in step b) is carried out by means of a method which is selected from

i. One- or two-dimensional gel electrophoresis

ii. affinity

iii. Protein-protein complexation in solution

iv. ELISA (enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay)

v. enzyme-linked metabolic assays

vi. Mass spectrometry, in particular Matrix Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization (MALDI) and in particular

vii. Use of protein chips, Northern blots,

viii. Reverse transcriptase polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR),

ix. RNase protection experiments

x. Dot blots,

xi. CDNA sequencing,

xii. Clone hybridization,

xiii. Differential display, xiv. Subtractive hybridization,

xv. cDNA fragment fingerprinting,

xvi. flow cytometry analysis,

xvii. Serial analysis of gene expression (SAGE) and in particular xviii. Use of nucleic acid chips,

or by suitable combinations of these methods.

In particularly preferred methods according to the invention, the hair-specific factor is a growth factor, preferably HGF and / or KGF and / or SCF and / or C-Met.

HGF stands for 'hepatocyte growth factor' and KGF for jibroblast growth factor 7 (keratinocyte growth factor) '. The signal transduction system of the cytokine HGF ('hepatocyte growth factor') and its receptor MET (c-met, 'hepatocyte growth factor receptor') has a central effect on epithelialmesenchymale interactions and the coordination of participating cells.

The star cell factor SCF is a protein from the cytokine family that is critically important for the survival, proliferation and differentiation of stem cells, particularly hematopoietic stem cells and progenitor cells. The stem cell factor exists in two active forms, a cell membrane-bound and a free variant. The free variant is formed from the membrane-bound stem cell factor by metalloproteases. Its effects mediate the stem cell factor by activating the receptor tyrosine kinase c-kit.

HGF and / or KGF and / or SCF and / or C-Met can be determined immunohistochemically. Their content in the sample provides evidence of the condition of the hair follicle and hair. In general, a high value is considered desirable, i. low levels of HGF and / or KGF and / or SCF and / or C-Met indicate hair damage requiring treatment, so that corresponding hair cosmetic products that increase the levels of HGF and / or KGF and / or SCF and / or C-Met can, are recommended.

Alternatively or in addition to HGF and / or KGF and / or SCF and / or C-Met, the ATP content can be determined as a hair-specific factor in step b) of the method according to the invention.

Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) is a nucleotide consisting of the triphosphate of the nucleoside adenosine (and as such, an energy-rich building block of nucleic acid RNA).

However, ATP is primarily the universal form of instantaneous energy available in each cell and, at the same time, an important regulator of energy-providing processes. If necessary, ATP is resynthesized from other energy stores (creatine phosphate, glycogen, fatty acids). The ATP molecule consists of an adenine residue, the sugar ribose and three phosphates (a to γ) in ester (a) or anhydride bond (ß and γ). In general, a high value is desirable, ie low ATP contents suggest that hair damage needs to be treated, so that corresponding hair cosmetic products that can increase the ATP content are recommended.

Alternatively or in addition to HGF and / or KGF and / or SCF and / or C-Met and / or for determining the ATP content, in step b) of the method according to the invention the ATP content may be the hair content of the ATP content and / or the average Molar mass of hair keratins are determined.

Again, a high content of keratin and high molar masses of hair keratins are desirable. Alternatively or additionally, in step b) of the method according to the invention, the representatives derived from the group of keratin-associated proteins (KAPs) can be determined as the hair-specific factor.

A determination of the hair-specific factors from the group of "low sulfur" and / or "high sulfur" and / or high glycine / high thyronine "intermediary filaments is possible in step b) of the method according to the invention recourse to common analysis methods for proteins.

In parallel or as an alternative to the previous determinations, hair-specific factors which play a role in the pigmentation of the hair shaft and are preferably selected from c-kit, tyrosinase, trp-1, trp-2, MCR can also be determined in step b) of the method according to the invention -1, alpha-MSH, ACTH, GP100).

The determination of hair-specific factors that play a role in hair aging and is preferably selected from RAGE, BAX, Bcl-2, Catalase, beta-galactosidase in step b) of the method according to the invention are possible and preferred.

In all cases mentioned above and regardless of which and how many hair-specific factors are determined, the actual value of at least one hair-specific factor is compared with predetermined desired values in step c) of the method according to the invention.

These set values can be determined, for example, by the examination of healthy hair, wherein preferably mean values are formed from a collective. Particularly preferably, the collectives are formed in a particularly uniform and particularly large manner, ie the "base value" is determined from the hair / hair follicles of as many individuals as possible, which share as many properties as possible, age and gender being the most important Procedure leads to the collection of the target values in step c) with a sufficient in terms of age and gender (preferably at least 10, more preferably at least 50 and in particular at least 100 persons) control group.

Most particularly, further specifications / groupings are introduced and the limits set as narrow as possible. Thus, a control group "female, third decade of life" could be further divided into "female, 25 years" or "female, year of birth xxxx" and possibly even further in "female, 25 years, blond, thin hair" etc ..

By a suitable choice of the control group and the values determined in this control group for the individual hair-specific factors, the deviation of the measurement result can be determined. If not only a hair-specific factor is determined, but a majority of these factors, a "hair condition histogram" can be drawn in which individual factors are more or less in need of improvement.

On this data basis, in step d) of the method according to the invention, the hair of the individual can be treated with cosmetic agents which improve at least one hair-specific factor. The customer can thus be given an individual product recommendation that specifically addresses problematic areas without the customer having to rely on general advertising claims such as "fuller" hair, and the success of the particular cosmetic product can be demonstrated and documented through further analysis after a certain treatment period The individual satisfaction of the consumer is thus provided with an objective analysis which is suitable for binding the customer to a manufacturing company and its products.

Claims

claims

1. A method for individualized hair treatment, characterized in that one

a) for hair color to obtain the hair follicle from hairy skin of an individual by plucking wins and b) examining the at least one hair follicle on the expression of at least one hair-specific factor and for extracorporeal analysis of hair follicle cells

2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that one carries out the investigation in step b) by means of a method which is selected from

i. One- or two-dimensional gel electrophoresis

ii. affinity

iii. Protein-protein complexation in solution

iv. ELISA (enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay)

v. enzyme-linked metabolic assays

vii. Use of protein chips, Northern blots,

viii. Reverse transcriptase polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR),

ix. RNase protection experiments

x. Dot blots,

xi. CDNA sequencing,

xii. Clone hybridization,

xiii. Differential display,

xiv. Subtractive hybridization,

xv. cDNA fragment fingerprinting,

xvi. flow cytometry analysis,

or by suitable combinations of these methods.

3. The method according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the hair-specific factor is a growth factor, preferably HGF and / or KGF and / or SCF and / or C-Met.

4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the hair-specific factor is the ATP content.

5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the hair-specific factor is the keratin content and / or the average molecular weight of the hair keratins.

6. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the hair-specific factor from the group of keratin-associated proteins (KAPs) is derived.

7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the hair-specific factor from the group of "low sulfur" and / or "high sulfur" and / or high glycine / high thyronine "Intermediärfilaamente comes.

8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the hair-specific factor in the pigmentation of the hair shaft plays a role and is preferably selected from c-kit, tyrosinase, trp-1, trp-2, MCR-1, alpha MSH, ACTH, GP100).

9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the hair-specific factor for hair aging plays a roll and is preferably selected from RAGE, BAX, Bcl-2, Catalse, beta-galactosidase.

10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the collection of the target values in step c) with a sufficiently large in age and sex (preferably at least 10, more preferably at least 50 and in particular at least 100 people ) Controls.