WO2012167904A2 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing polyglyceryl-10-stearate and polylysine - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing polyglyceryl-10-stearate and polylysine and optionally sclerotium gum result in an improved antimicrobial efficacy.

Description

 Cosmetic or dermatological preparations with polyglycerate MO stearate and

 polylysine

The invention encompasses cosmetic or dermatological preparations with a content of polyglycerate MO stearate, in particular less than 2% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, and polylysine and optionally sclerotium gum. The proportion of polylysine is advantageously in the range of 0.1 to 2 wt.%, In particular in the range of 0.25 wt.%. based on the total mass of the preparation selected.

 The proportion of sclerotium gum is advantageously in the range of 0.05 to 2 wt.%, In particular in the range of 0.25 wt.%. based on the total mass of the preparation selected. In particular, the preparations have no (0%) ethoxylated emulsifiers, polyethylene glycols and / or polyethylene glycol derivatives.

 The preparations show improved stability and improved antimicrobial

 Efficacy against formulations based on other emulsifier systems without PG-10 stearate.

Common manifestations of cosmetic or dermatological preparations are finely dispersed multiphase systems in which one or more fat or oil phases are present alongside one or more water phases. Of these systems, the most common are again the actual emulsions.

 But also emulsifier-poor or -free preparations based on so-called

Hydrodispersions are known. Hydrodispersions are dispersions of a liquid, semi-solid or solid internal (discontinuous) lipid phase in an external aqueous (continuous) phase. Hydrodispersions are - as well as emulsions characterized by a similar phase arrangement - metastable systems and therefore inclined to a state of two in to pass on coherent discrete phases. In a classic O / W emulsion, the choice of a suitable emulsifier prevents the

Phase separation. In contrast to classical emulsions, however, hydrodispersions contain only very small amounts of emulsifiers or can even be completely free from

Be emulsifiers.

Emulsions, in particular W / O, O / W, O / W / O or W / O / W emulsions, are often used as cosmetic or medical preparations. Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only slightly miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases. In an emulsion, one of the two liquids (W / O) is dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid. The liquids (pure or as solutions) are in one

CONFIRMATION COPY Emulsion in a more or less fine distribution, which is generally limited stability.

If the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are finely distributed in water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, eg milk). The basic character, for example electrical conductivity, sensor technology, dyeability of the continuous phase, an O W emulsion is characterized by the water. A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, eg butter) is the reverse principle, whereby the basic character is determined by the oil.

The prior art knows several important factors that have a positive influence on the stability and rheology of emulsions.

Emulsions generally require one or more emulsifiers, thickeners and / or bodying agents for their formation and stabilization to be stable over a cosmetically acceptable period of time, generally 1 year after opening a cosmetic preparation.

 This often requires large amounts of emulsifiers. This in turn can be at

Consumers to misperceptions to intolerance and in extreme cases, even to phenomena such as Mallorca acne or similar. to lead.

It is therefore desirable to provide emulsion formulations which comprise the smallest possible amounts of emulsifiers and are nevertheless sufficiently stable in formulated.

For cosmetic or dermatological creams and lotions to remain stable for a few months after opening, they must be preserved. Decisive is the choice of means - because bacteria, fungi and yeasts do not distinguish whether a cream or lotion contains natural or synthetic substances. Once opened enough, and already the cosmetic preparation with bacteria, fungi and / or yeasts is contaminated and can multiply. Microbial contamination of cosmetics is to be avoided for two reasons. On the one hand, the formula has to be protected against any potential depletion of raw materials. The degradation of raw materials can lead to the most varied changes of the formula for example instability (if eg the emulsifier is degraded). But even before the possible degradation products of microorganisms, the formula must be protected (fragrance or color change, etc.). Finally, microorganisms can produce toxins. 3

According to Council Directive 76/768 EEC only safe cosmetic products may be marketed. This also means that cosmetic products that allow the growth of microorganisms due to their chemical composition and physical properties must be preserved. To this end, the preservatives listed in Annex VI of the Council Directive 76/768 and assessed as safe in order to protect the user against microorganism-induced health hazards and by the growth of microorganisms caused product damage (degradation or modification of ingredients, microbial metabolic end products) to avert. Thus, the microbiological stability of the cosmetic product during the

 Product life cycle (production, storage, application). The concentration of preservatives should be chosen to meet these goals but avoid over-preservation. As a result, the residual risk of undesired side effects (skin irritation, sensitization), which can not be completely avoided, is minimized for the user. The reduction of preservatives, however, succeeds only if ingredients of cosmetic products additionally as a secondary property

have antimicrobial properties.

Preservatives are responsible for killing bacteria, yeasts and fungi. Many of these substances are very reactive and have cytotoxic effects that can cause irritation and redness on the skin. After many years of use, there is also a residual risk for particularly sensitive consumers. When used for many years there is a risk that the substances sensitize the organism and allergic reactions occur. Of course, the sensitivity depends on many parameters:

Concentration, exposure rate, nature of the substance, solubility and location of the substance

Application.

 Known albeit comparatively weak allergens are formaldehyde and substances which release formaldehyde in the product. The organohalogen compounds, which include some preservatives, also have great allergic potential.

However, cosmetic preparations must be formulated for long-term stability against microbial contamination and still have a very good skin compatibility.

The microbial stability has so far been solved by the addition of preservatives. Known preservatives are the compounds known as parabens, in particular 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its esters, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, isopropylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, phenylparaben. Furthermore, phenoxyethanol, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, phenyl glycol,

 Phenoxetol®, known for the preservation of cosmetic products.

It is therefore desirable to reduce the amount of preservatives in cosmetic or dermatological preparations as much as possible.

With regard to increasing health impairments and allergies and the urge of consumers for more ecologically compatible cosmetics, there is the problem that these preparations must nevertheless have sufficient stability and above all skin compatibility.

 Furthermore, simple replacement or avoidance of preservatives such as parabens and / or phenoxyethanol is not readily possible without sacrificing stability and performance.

 It is known from the literature (Preservatives for Pharmaceuticals J. Soc., Cosmet., Chem., 23, 703-720, 1972) that the choice of formulation constituents and formulations is known from the literature

Availability of contained antimicrobial substances may influence. For example, high emulsifier levels may decrease the effectiveness and effectiveness of antimicrobials. The availability of antimicrobial molecules can be reduced inter alia by complexing with emulsifiers. The amount of bound antimicrobial agent is hereafter directly related to the amount of emulsifier used.

Cosmetic antiperspirants or deodorants / deodorants are used to eliminate body odor or to reduce their formation. Body odor arises when the per se odorless fresh sweat by microorganisms such. Staphylococci and Corynebacteria is decomposed.

 The usual cosmetic deodorants are based on different active principles. In common usage, there is not always a clear distinction between the terms "deodorant" and "antiperspirant". Rather, especially in German-speaking countries, products for use in the armpit area are referred to as deodorants or "deodorants", irrespective of the question of whether an antiperspirant effect is also present.

Antiperspirants (AT) are antiperspirants that, in contrast to the deodorants which generally prevent microbial decomposition of already formed perspiration, are said to prevent the secretion of sweat at all. In contrast to the antiperspirants pure deodorants cause no active influence on the sweat secretion, but only the control or influence of the body or underarm odor (odor control agent). Common mechanisms of action for this are antibacterial effects, odor neutralization (masking), influencing bacterial metabolisms, the pure perfuming as well as the use of precursors of certain perfume components, which are converted by enzymatic reactions to fragrant substances.

 In addition to the actual antiperspirant active ingredients (AT-agents), preparations may additionally contain substances which inhibit the microbial degradation of the perspiration, such as e.g. Triclosan. Triclosan has an effect against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria as well as against fungi and yeasts, which results in a deodorizing, but no antiperspirant effect, since no influence on the sweat secretion can be deduced from the influence on the bacterial skin flora.

 Sweat odor consists to a large extent of branched-chain fatty acids, which are released by bacterial enzymes from odorless sweat. Classic deodorizing agents counteract this by reducing the growth of bacteria. Frequently, however, the substances used here are also unselective against useful skin germs and, like certain emulsifiers, can cause sensitive skin to skin irritation.

 With regard to increasing health impairments and allergies and the urge of consumers for increasingly ecologically compatible cosmetics, there is the problem that these preparations in addition to the efficacy must also have sufficient stability and, above all, skin compatibility.

A deodorising agent that seems to meet these requirements for naturalness, efficacy and tolerability is polylysine.

Polylysine (polylysine (ε-poly-L-lysine, EPL, CAS: 2821 1-04-3) is known as a cationic polymer for preserving foodstuffs.) Polylysine is water-soluble and due to the antimicrobial properties of polylysine a reduction of perspiration odor is observed ,

 Polylysine is produced by fermentation and can therefore be called a natural active ingredient. Therefore, it is desirable to provide natural, cosmetic formula bases for the formulation of polylysine-containing deodorants.

L-lysine is characterized by the following chemical structure:

ε-Polylysine represents a polymer in which the ε-terminal amino group of a lysine molecule is linked to the acid function of another lysine molecule

 The index "n" (more precisely, the value n / 2) defines the degree of polymerization of the polylysine.

The INCI name is poly [imino [(2S) -2-amino-1-oxo-1,6-hexanediyl]], it has CAS no. 28211-04-3 and is described in various references: Shima, S. and Sakai H. (1977). "Polylysines produced by Streptomyces". Agricultural and Biological Chemistry 41: 1807-1809; Shima, S. et al. (1984). "Antimicrobial action of ε-poly-L-lysines". Journal of Antibiotics 37 (11): 1449-1455; GRAS Notice no. GRN 000135; Hiraki, J. et al. (2003). "Use of ADME studies to confirm the safety of ε-polylysine as a preservative in food". Regulator / Toxicology and Pharmacology 37 (2): 328-340; Hiraki, J. (1995). "Basic and applied studies on ε-polylysine". Journal of Antibacterial Antifungal Agents 23: 349-354.

Polylysine (polylysine) is used as an antimicrobial agent against yeasts, fungi and gram-pos. and gram-neg. Bacteria described and used. Currently it finds as

Preservatives, especially in Japan, Korea and the USA, application.

Production takes place via a fermentative process.

For the preparation of cosmetic emulsions, however, ethoxylated emulsifiers are frequently used which, as generally known, lead to loadable, stable emulsion preparations and can often cover a relatively wide sensory range. However, it is also known that ethoxylated emulsifiers act as Penetrationsenhancer by their PEG units. Polyethylene glycols and / or polyethylene glycol derivatives and their derivatives can make the skin more permeable and thus introduce harmful substances into the body. For this reason, the use of ethoxylated substances in cosmetics is controversial and ethoxylated emulsifiers are therefore not desired by the consumer.

Furthermore, under the action of solar radiation, the photoinstable polyethylene glycol (PEG) emulsifiers can be decomposed and cause unsightly skin reactions.

It is therefore desirable emulsion-based formulations without ethoxylated

 To provide emulsifiers available, but which are still widely varied and above all represent stable emulsions.

The skilled worker for this numerous PEG-free emulsifiers are known. Due to the cationic nature of polylysine, however, in combination with various PEG-free emulsifiers and polymeric thickeners, interactions repeatedly lead to instabilities, such as precipitations of the preparations.

For example, the PEG-free emulsifiers known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, cetearyl glucosides, methyl glucose sesquistearates; Potassium Cetyl Phosphate; Lauryl Glucoside / Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate or Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate in combination with Polylysine on just such interactions. These emulsifiers do not allow stable emulsion systems.

It is therefore desirable to provide preparations with polylysine as antimicrobial agent which are PEG-free and have sufficient stability.

The skilled worker is also known emulsifiers from the food industry such as glyceryl stearate citrate (Imwitor®) or polyglyceryl-10-stearate.

However, in search of suitable emulsifiers which meet the desired requirements of cosmetics or dermatology, these emulsifiers appear to be

excluded.

Glyceryl stearate citrate must be used in cosmetic preparations in such a high amount or in combination with co-emulsifiers to obtain stable emulsions, so that the desire for reduced emulsifier content with glyceryl stearate citrate is not met. Polyglyceryl-10-stearate (PG-10 stearate, CAS No .: 79777-30-3) is a hydrophilic emulsifier and has an HLB of 12.

 Polyglyceryl-10 stearates are commercially available as blends, for example, as Polyaldo 10-1-S (Lonza), Nikkol Decaglyn 1 -S (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) or Salacos PGMSV (The Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.).

Polyglyceryl-10-stearate is known from ice cream manufacture and has a brown color. Also due to this aesthetically problematic circumstance, the application in cosmetic emulsions seemed to ban itself.

Heliogel®, which in addition to Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Phospholipids, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil also contains polyglyceryl-10 stearates, is available for purchase.

In cosmetic preparations, PG-10 stearate is merely part of a

Called aftershave glands. In this preparation, 6 wt.% PG-10 stearate are described in addition to other emulsifiers such as lecithin and PEG 150 distearate (WO 2003082182).

WO 2000/064408 A1 discloses wet wipes. Therein is mentioned polyglyceryl-10-stearate as one of many emulsifying substances.

Surprisingly, however, it has been shown that polyglyceryl-10-stearate can be used as an emulsifier in cosmetic or dermatological preparations as an emulsifier, without showing the disadvantages of the coloring effect and the instability.

Surprisingly, it has also been shown that polyglyceryl-10-stearate shows an improved release of antimicrobial agents and thus exerts improved efficacy.

The invention is a cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising

Polyglyceryl-10-stearate, preferably less than 2 wt.%, In particular in the range of 0.1 to 1, 8 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation, and polylysine.

Polylysine is water-soluble and can therefore be easily incorporated into cosmetic basics. Due to the antimicrobial properties, improved preservation of cosmetic or dermatological preparations can be achieved. Surprisingly, the combination of polylysine with polyglycerol-10-stearate showed synergism for antimicrobial efficacy.

The preparations according to the invention are advantageously based on an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion, or hydrodispersion. The preparations thus prepared, preferably emulsions, have a low emulsifier content of less than 2% and thus satisfy the desire for well-tolerated, mild products without compromising stability. Less than 2% by weight of PG-10 stearate does not mean 0% by weight. The minimum proportion of PG-10 stearate is preferably 0.1% by weight.

 Surprisingly, those containing less than 2% by weight are polyglyceryl-10-stearate

prepared preparations stable for a period of at least 3 years

Room temperature and at least 6 months at 40 ° C storage.

Furthermore, it was surprisingly found that polyglyceryl-10-stearate, also used as the only emulsifier, leads to stable emulsions. A waiver of additional emulsifiers is thus possible and comes so the desire for reduced

Emulsifier contents after.

Limiting the use of PG-10 stearate in cosmetics to the lowest possible levels may have been obvious to a cosmetic professional due to the brown color of the PG-10 stearate, but due to the low levels it would then have to emanate from a reduced emulsifying effect. However, surprisingly, this has not been confirmed when using less than 2% by weight PG-10 stearate, in particular in the range from 0.1 to 1.8% by weight, based on the total amount of the preparation.

 In several long-term stability studies showed the PG-10 stearate containing

Preparations no instabilities, phase separation, coalescence, Ostwald ripening or change in droplet size with time or creaming. The formulations as disclosed in the examples were optically stable for at least 6 months at room temperature and at 40 ° C. That is, no phase separation or phase separation was observed.

In comparative studies, antimicrobial efficacy was determined.

 Bacterial suspension test:

 cultivation:

C. jeikeium (DSM 7171) is spread out of a cryotube (EN 12353) on an agar plate and incubated at 30 ° C. for 48 h. Subsequently, a second passage is created on another agar plate. After 24h growth, a loop of the bacteria is removed and placed in a sterile baffled flask with 5g glass beads and 10ml AC medium (for Corynebacteria) and 3min. vortexed.

 Then set an OD of 0.06-0.08 and then diluted with medium diluted 1: 50 to give a bacterial count of about 2x105.

Test procedure:

 The emulsifiers were heated at 80 ° C in a water bath and then proportionally mixed with PE water to produce the emulsifier A / Vasser solution. For the combination with polylysine, solid polylysine was dissolved in the emulsifier / water mixture. As a control, a sample was prepared solely with polylysine in water.

 500 .mu.l of the bacterial suspension were added to 500 .mu.l of the initially introduced active ingredient solution and incubated on a thermo shaker (30.degree. C., 1200 rpm).

 At the start of the test and after 20 min, 60 min and 180 min samples are taken from the batches and their bacterial counts are determined on agar plates and evaluated with the help of the Countermat instrument.

The results are shown in Figure 1.

 Figure 1 shows reduction factors of bacterial cutaneous kinetics after 180 min. The diagram shows the reduction factors for the individual compounds polylysine and PG-10 stearate and those of the combination of polylysine and PG-10 stearate.

The combination of PG-10 stearate with polylysine leads to a stronger bacterial knock-down rate than with polylysine or PG-10-sterate alone.

The deterioration of activity (due to complexation, etc.) observed in other emulsifier systems therefore does not appear to occur with PG-10 stearate.

PG-10 stearate in combination with polylysine therefore results in improved antimicrobial effectiveness in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

The proportion of polylysine is advantageously in the range of 0.1 to 2 wt.%, In particular in the range of 1 wt.%, Preferably in the range 0.8 to 1, 2 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation selected. In addition to the stabilizers necessary emulsifiers and microbially effective preservatives generally also thickeners contribute to the stabilization of the cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

Usually, the viscosity of lotions is adjusted by adding thickeners or bodying agents. As a result, for example, the outer phase of an O / W emulsion is stabilized.

 As a thickener hydrocolloids are generally used, which swell the outer aqueous phase of emulsions. The hydrocolloids include i.a. Xanthan Gum, Carrageenan, Polyacrylates, Agar Agar or Magnesium Aluminum Silicate.

However, it has been shown that these thickeners in combination with polylysine can lead to instability of the entire preparation.

It is therefore desirable to provide a thickener-stabilized emulsion preparation comprising polylysine.

Multiple sugars are known which can be used as thickeners. Surprisingly, a member of the multiple sugar, sclerotium gum, has shown to stabilize against polylysine-containing preparations. Sclerotium gum (CAS: 39464-87-4) is mentioned as a polymeric thickener and viscosity-affecting ingredient in cosmetics.

In several long term stability studies, the PG-10 stearate containing polylysine and sclerotium gum preparations did not show instabilities, phase separation, coalescence, Ostwald ripening, or change in droplet size over time or creaming. The formulations as disclosed in the examples were optically stable for at least 6 months at room temperature and at 40 ° C. That is, no phase separation or phase separation was observed.

It is therefore advantageous additionally to add sclerotium gum to the preparations.

In Table 1 and 2 comparative experiments are shown, which serve to verify the interactions of polylysine with emulsifiers or thickeners.

2% emulsifier was dispersed in water and heated to 80 ° C. 0.5% polylsine in aqueous solution was added and visually assessed after 1 min. Table 1

Review of interactions of polylysine with thickeners

The thickeners were swollen in 100 ml of water with stirring. Following the preparation of the thickener gel, 1 ml of a 0.1% Polylsyin solution was added, stirred and visually assessed.

Table 2

Furthermore, additional emulsifiers may also be added to the preparations according to the invention. However, this is not required or mandatory in all cases according to the invention.

If additional emulsifiers are added, these are preferably to be selected from the group of emulsifiers which are solid, pasty or liquid at 25 ° C and not ethoxylated. Particularly preferred additional emulsifiers are to be selected from the group 1, 2 Propandiolfettsäureester, acetoglycerides, acetylated mono- / diglycerides, alkali or Ammonium soaps, ammonium phosphatides, sorbitan monoisostearate, C10-C22 fatty acids, cetearyl sulfate, cetearyl glucosides, cetyl phosphate, cetylstearyl alcohol in combination with sodium cetyl stearyl sulphate, citroglyceride esters, citric acid monoglycerides,

 Diacetyltartaric acid monoglycerides, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Isolan PDI), egg lecithin, emulsifier YN (trade name), acetic acid monoglycerides, mixed propylene glycol glycerol esters, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate in combination with propylene glycol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl stearate citrate, glycol distearate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate , Isostearylglyceryl ether, potassium cetyl phosphate,

 Lactoglycerides, lactylated mono- / diglycerides, lecithin, methyl glucose sesquistearate,

Lactic acid monoglycerides, mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids esterified with acetic acid and tartaric acid, monoglyceride acetate, monoglyceride citrate, monoglyceride diacetyl tartrate, monoglyceride lactate, monoglyceride tartrate, Na, K and Ca salts of stearoyl-2-lactyl lactic acid, Na, K and Ca; stearoyl-2-lactoyl-lactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl-2-lactyllactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl lactic acid, Na salt of lauryl sulfuric acid,

Sodium cetyl phosphate, sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, sodium dodecyl sulfate and / or

Dodecyl hydrogen sulfate, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (LameformTGl), polyglycerol ester of interesterified ricinoleic acid, polyglycerol fatty acid ester, polyglycerol polycrinoleate, polyglyceryl dimerate isostearate, polyglyceryl polyricinoleate (Admul WOL 1403),

Polyglyceryl-1 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls PGPH), polyglyceryl-2-laurate, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (Cera Bellina), polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether

(Chimexane NL), polyglyceryl-3 distearate (Cremophor GS 32), polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (Tego Care 450), polyglyceryl-3-oleate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglycose distearate, polyglyceryl-4-caprate (polyglycerol caprate T2010190), polyglyceryl-4

Diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate (Isolan GPS), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan GI 34), polyoxyethylene stearic acid ester, polyoxylstearate mono- / diglyceride, propylene glycol stearate SE, propylene glycol fatty acid ester, propylene glycol mono- / di-fatty acid ester, rapeseed lecithin, sucrose glycerides , Sucrose esters of fatty acids, soy lecithin, sorbates bsp. Sorbitan monolaurate (sorbate 20), sorbitan di-citrate, sorbitan butucate,

Sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan adipate, sorbitan dioleate,

Sorbitan dicinoleate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan monoerucate,

Sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan monoricinoleate,

Sorbitan monostearate (sorbate 60), sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquiterate,

Sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate,

Sorbitan sesquimlate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan squiricinoleate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan triisostearate,

Sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan trimaleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan tristearate (sorbate 65), sorbitan tritartrate, stearic acid and its salts, sucrose, triethyl citrate, Tartaric acid glycerides, tartaric acid glycerides and / or sugar fatty acid esters, particularly preferred is glyceryl stearate.

The preparations according to the invention preferably comprise no further additional emulsifier except PG-10 stearate. The proportion of additional emulsifiers should therefore preferably be less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, in order to be considered to be present according to the invention-without additional emulsifier.

To stabilize or thicken emulsions, fatty alcohols such as myristyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, etc. are often used. The generic term fatty alcohols stands for monohydric primary alcohols with 8 to 22

 Carbon atoms and branched or unbranched chains. They are obtained by a reduction of the triglycerides, fatty acids or fatty acid methyl esters and form elementary raw materials for the production of various chemical secondary products. As far as the chain length is concerned, an even number of C atoms is a characteristic of the natural origin.

 However, fatty alcohols cause a characteristic, waxy, dull and rich skin feeling. Depending on the product, target group and / or product concept, this property is not always wanted.

 Advantageously, the deodorant / AT preparations according to the invention are therefore free of fatty alcohols.

Fatty alcohol-free means that the proportion of fatty alcohols, in particular C8-22, less than 1%, based on the total mass of the preparation, more preferably below 0.25%, and especially below 0, 1%.

 It is surprisingly found that solely by the inventive choice of PG-0-stearate emulsifier in the preparations and waiver of fatty alcohols a broader

Variability can be achieved in terms of the adjusted skin feel of the preparation.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may further contain cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for. Preservatives, preservatives, bactericides, anti-foaming agents, dyes and color pigments, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, Electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives, self-tanning agents, buffers, pH regulators, vegetable extracts, surfactants, propellants, powders, sebum-absorbing substances, UV filters, active ingredients such as Example anti-age, anti-cellulite, anti-acne, anti-rosacea, anti-eczema, antioxidants, moisturizers, chelating agents, antitraspirants, bleaches and dyes etc, provided that the addition does not hinder the required properties in terms of emulsifier content, required antimicrobial effectiveness and stability ,

The preparations according to the invention are preferably O / W, W / O, W / O / W, O / W / O emulsions and hydrodispersions, where O can also stand for silicone oils. The preparation is preferably formulated on the basis of an O / W emulsion or hydrodispersion.

As the lipid phase, the following oils may preferably be used in accordance with the invention

Emulsion, in particular O / W emulsion used

polar oil components selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a

Chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of phenethyl benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dibutyl adipate, octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyldodeceyl myristate, octyldodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate,

Isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. jojoba oil. Furthermore, dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates may advantageously be selected, and z. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or

Dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that available under the trade name Cetiol CC from Cognis. It is further preferred that the oil component (s) is selected from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate,

Caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C12-13 alkyl lactate, di-C12-13 alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate,

Propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethylisosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations of the invention has a content of C12-15-alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this. Other oil components may include: caprylic / capric triglycerides, octyldodecanol, C12-15 alkyl benzoates, Butylenglycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Cera Microcristallina + Paraffin Liquidum, Butyrospermum Parkii, Dicaprylyl Ether, Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides, Simmondsia Chinensis Oil, Tridecyl Stearate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate / Hexacaprate, Lanolin Alcohol, C12 -15- alkyl benzoate; Butylene glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isodecyl

Neopentanoates and Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides.

 Furthermore, non-polar oil components such as, for example, silicone oils such as, for example, D4, D5, D6, dimethicones, dimethiconecopolyol and other hydrocarbon-based oils such as Parafinum Liquidum, halogenated and perhalogenated hydrocarbons can be advantageously selected.

Preferred lipid components in the preparations according to the invention are C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl palmitate, caprylic / capric triglycerides and / or octyldodecanol.

The following examples illustrate the preparations according to the invention. The

given proportions are by weight, in each case based on the total mass of the preparation.

Examples

Q / W emulsion

 Chemical composition 1 2

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate 1, 0 1, 5

Glyceryl Stearate 0.2 -

Behenyl alcohol - 2

Cyclomethicone 1 10

C 12-15 alkyl benzoate 1 2

Isopropyl palmitate 2 1

Caprylic Acid / Capric Acid Triglycerides 1 -

Carbomer - 0.3

Octocrylene 2 -

Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 2 -

Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 1 -

Ethylhexyl salicylate 4 -

Tapioca starch 2 -

Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.2 -

Epsilon poly-lysine 0.1 0.3 EDTA 1 1

Glycerol 5 7

Perfume 0.5 0.6

DMDM Hydantoin 0.5 1

Water ad 100 ad 100

Chemical name 3 4

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate 1.00 1.50

Cetyl alcohol 1.00 0.75

Caprylic Acid / Capric Acid Triglycerides 3.00 4.00

Glycerin 2.00 5.00

Ethanol 2.00 -

Xanthan Gum 0.15 0.10

Carrageenan - 0.20

Epsilon poly-lysine 0.25 0.50

Perfume q.s. q.s.

Water ad 100 ad 100

Chemical name 5 6

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate 1.50 2.50

Cetyl alcohol 1.00 0.75

Caprylic Acid / Capric Acid Triglycerides 3.00 4.00

Glycerol 5.00 7.50

Myristyl Myristat 1.00 2.00

Glyceryl Stearate 1.50 2.00

Octyldodecanol - 1.00

Epsilon poly-lysine 0.10 0.50

Perfume q.s. q.s.

Water ad 100 ad 100

INCI 7 [weight%] 8 [weight%] 9 [weight%]

Sclerotium gum 0.25 0.30 0.25 e-polylysine 0.25 0.30 0.25 Cetyl Alcohol 1.00 - 0.50

Myristyl alcohol - 1.20 0.50

Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 4.00 5.00 3.50

Polyglyceryl-10-stearate 1.20 1.20 1.20

Levulinic Acid - - 0.20

Sodium Levulinate - - 0.10 p-Anisic Acid - - 0.10

Alcohol - 5.00

Methylisothiazolinone 0.05 0.05 -

Glycerine 5.00 5.00 5.00

Perfume 1.00 1.00 1.00

Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising polyglyceryl-10-stearate and polylysine.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, comprising less than 2 wt.% Polyglyceryl-10-stearate, based on the total mass of the preparation.

3. A preparation according to claim 2, comprising 0.1 to 1, 8 wt.% Polyglyceryl-10-stearate, based on the total mass of the preparation.

4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims comprising 0.1 to 2 wt.%

 Polylysine, in particular in the range 0.8 to 1, 2 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation.

5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, in addition to polyglyceryl-10 stearate no further emulsifiers.

6. Preparation according to claim 1, 2, 3 or 4, comprising in addition to polyglyceryl-10-stearate one or more emulsifiers which are solid, pasty or liquid at 25 ° C and not ethoxylated.

7. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims as O / W emulsion.

8. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 6 as a hydrodispersion.

9. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is fatty alcohol-free.

10. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims comprising Sclerotium Gum.

1 1. A preparation according to claim 10 comprising from 0.05 to 2 wt.%, Based on the

 Total mass, of sclerotium gum.

12. Use of polyglycerol-10-stearate and polylysine in cosmetic or

 dermatological preparation for improving antimicrobial efficacy.