WO2012139947A2 - Composition de soin des cheveux - Google Patents

Composition de soin des cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012139947A2
WO2012139947A2 PCT/EP2012/056160 EP2012056160W WO2012139947A2 WO 2012139947 A2 WO2012139947 A2 WO 2012139947A2 EP 2012056160 W EP2012056160 W EP 2012056160W WO 2012139947 A2 WO2012139947 A2 WO 2012139947A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
kit
polyphenol
total
hair
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PCT/EP2012/056160
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English (en)
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WO2012139947A3 (fr
Inventor
Nicholas John Ainger
Stephen Norman Batchelor
Neil Stephen Burnham
Robert George Riley
Stephen Lee Wire
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Unilever Plc
Unilever N.V.
Hindustan Unilever Limited
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Publication of WO2012139947A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012139947A2/fr
Publication of WO2012139947A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012139947A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/347—Phenols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/58—Metal complex; Coordination compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to kits and methods for colouring hair. Background
  • EP0327345 discloses a hair colouring shampoo containing an Fe(ll) salt and a second component is applied which contains a metal ligand including ortho substituted phenols.
  • kits for colouring hair comprising: i) an aqueous shampoo composition comprising:
  • b) from 0.5 wt% to 25 wt% of the total shampoo composition comprises an alkyl ether sulphate, ii) a second aqueous second composition, comprising from 0.05 wt% to
  • Also described is a method of colouring hair comprising the steps of applying to hair sequentially in any order the composition described above.
  • Shampoo compositions of the invention are generally aqueous, i.e. they have water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystalline phase as their major component.
  • the composition will comprise from 50 to 98 %, preferably from 60 to 90 % water by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Shampoo compositions of the invention comprise from 0.01 to 10 wt% of the total shampoo composition of at least one metal ion in which the metal is selected from iron, copper, zinc or manganese.
  • the level of metal ion is from 0.1 wt% to 5 wt% of the total shampoo composition, more preferably from 0.2 wt% to 3 wt%.
  • the level of metal ion in the formulation may be determined by quantitative elemental analysis.
  • the metal ion is Fe(ll), Fe(lll) or Cu(ll), more preferably the metal ion is selected from Fe(ll), Fe(lll), most preferably Fe(ll).
  • the metal ion is present as a complex with a ligand.
  • a ligand is a molecule that contains more than one organic group, preferably 2 to 4 groups, most preferably 2 groups that co-ordinate with the metal ion.
  • Groups for co-ordinating with the metal ion are COO " , OH, ketones, esters, primary amines, secondary amines and tertiary amines, more preferably COO " , primary amines and OH, most preferably COO " and OH.
  • Organic acids are highly preferred. Polyphenols are not permitted as multidentate ligands.
  • the ligand-metal complex may be pre-formed before addition to the shampoo for example iron (II) gluconate, iron (II) glutamate.
  • the ligand metal complex may be formed in the composition by the addition of an iron salt and the ligand, for example FeC and sodium lactate.
  • the mole ratio of iron ion to ligand is from 1 : 1 to 1 :4, more preferably from 1 : 1 .5 to 1 :2.5
  • the metal ion is in the form of a complex that is soluble in aqueous solution at the pH of the formulation.
  • the metal ion in the form of a complex has a solubility in demineralised water at the pH of the formulation of greater than 0.1 g/L.
  • the ligand used has a lower pM n+ , than gallic acid.
  • the pM" + are greater than 8 more preferably greater than 10.
  • the ligand is not a polyamino carboxylic acid, and such ligands are preferably present at weight % levels of less than 1/30th of the main ligand, preferably they are absent from the shampoo.
  • a polyamino carboxylic acid is a compound containing two or more amines connected through carbon atoms to two or more carboxylic acid groups. 2,2',2",2"'-(Ethane-1 ,2-diyldinitrilo)tetraacetic acid is a polyamino carboxylic acid. Diethylene triamine pentaacetic acid is a polyamino carboxylic acid. Ethylenediamine-/V,/V'-disuccinic acid is a polyamino carboxylic acid.
  • the ligands are selected from gluconate, tartrate, ascorbate, citrate and lactate Particularly preferred are gluconate, lactate or ascorbate. Particularly, preferred is iron (II) gluconate and iron(ll) lactate, iron (II) tartrate, most preferably iron (II) gluconate.
  • the iron is only in a composition which further comprises a cleansing surfactant, such as a shampoo composition.
  • a cleansing surfactant such as a shampoo composition.
  • Shampoo compositions of the invention comprise surfactant, the surfactant comprises alkyl ether sulphates (AES), preferably lauryl ether sulphate, most preferred sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES), preferably having from 1 to 3 ethoxy groups.
  • AES alkyl ether sulphates
  • SLES sodium lauryl ether sulfate
  • Other surfactants may also be present, preferably anionic, non-ionic and or amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactants may be present.
  • the fraction of AES surfactant in the surfactant mix ( ⁇ AES) may be defined as
  • FAES (Wt% AES surfactant) / (total wt% of all surfactants).
  • the AES surfactant is the major surfactant component and ⁇ A ES > 0.5, More preferably ⁇ A ES > 0.8.
  • the level of alkyl ether sulphate is from 0.5 wt% to 25 wt% of the total shampoo composition, more preferably from 3 wt% to 18 wt%, most preferably from 6 wt% to 15 wt% of the total shampoo composition.
  • Shampoo compositions according to the invention may further comprise one or more anionic cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.
  • suitable anionic cleansing surfactants other than alkyl ether sulphates are the alkyl sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, especially sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts.
  • the alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated.
  • the alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof may contain from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.
  • Typical anionic cleansing surfactants for use in shampoo compositions of the invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.
  • Preferred anionic cleansing surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium cocoyl isethionate and lauryl ether carboxylic acid (n) EO (where n is from 10 to 20).
  • the total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant in shampoo compositions of the invention generally ranges from 0.5 wt% to 45 wt%, more preferably from 1 .5 to 20%.
  • Shampoo compositions of the invention may comprise nonionic surfactant, preferably from 0 to 10 wt%, more preferably from 0 to 5 wt%, most preferably no nonionic surfactant is present.
  • Nonionic surfactants that can be included in shampoo compositions of the invention include condensation products of aliphatic (Cs - C-is) primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.
  • Alkyl ethoxylates are particularly preferred. Most preferred are alkyl ethoxylates having the formula R-(OCH 2 CH 2 )nOH, where R is an alkyl chain of C12 to C15, and n is 5 to 9.
  • Other suitable nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides. Examples include coco mono- or di-ethanolamide and coco mono- isopropanolamide.
  • APGs alkyl polyglycosides
  • the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups.
  • Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula: RO - (G) n wherein R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group. R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about C5 to about C2o-
  • R represents a mean alkyl chain length of from about Cs to about C12. Most preferably the value of R lies between about 9.5 and about 10.5.
  • G may be selected from C5 or Ce monosaccharide residues, and is preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof. Preferably, G is glucose.
  • the degree of polymerisation, n may have a value of from about 1 to about 10 or more.
  • the value of n lies from about 1 .1 to about 2.
  • Most preferably the value of n lies from about 1 .3 to about 1 .5.
  • Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commercially available and include for example those materials identified as: Oramix NS10 ex Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ex Henkel.
  • Other sugar-derived nonionic surfactants which can be included in compositions of the invention include the C-I O-C-I S N-alkyl ( ⁇ - ⁇ ) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as the C12-C18 N-methyl glucamides, as described for example in
  • WO 92 06154 and US 5 194 639 and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C10-C18 N-(3-methoxypropyl) glucamide.
  • Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant can be included in an amount ranging from 0 to about 8 wt%, preferably from 1 wt% to 4 wt% of the total shampoo composition.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms.
  • Typical amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocoamphoacetate. It is particularly preferred if the shampoo composition comprises from 0.5 wt% to 3 wt% of a betaine.
  • a particularly preferred amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is cocoamidopropyl betaine. Mixtures of any of the foregoing amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may also be suitable. Preferred mixtures are those of cocoamidopropyl betaine with further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants as described above. A preferred further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is sodium cocoamphoacetate.
  • the total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant, and/or any emulsifier) in a shampoo composition of the invention is generally from 1 w% to 50 %, preferably from 2 w% to 40 %, more preferably from 10 %to 25% by total weight surfactant based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Cationic Polymers are preferred ingredients in a shampoo composition of the invention for enhancing performance.
  • Suitable cationic polymers may be homopolymers which are cationically substituted or may be formed from two or more types of monomers.
  • the weight average (M w ) molecular weight of the polymers will generally be between 100, 000 and 2 million daltons.
  • the polymers will have cationic nitrogen containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or a mixture thereof. If the molecular weight of the polymer is too low, then the conditioning effect is poor. If too high, then there may be problems of high extensional viscosity leading to stringiness of the composition when it is poured.
  • the cationic nitrogen-containing group will generally be present as a substituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic polymer.
  • the polymer is not a homopolymer it can contain spacer non-cationic monomer units.
  • Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition.
  • the ratio of the cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give polymers having a cationic charge density in the required range, which is generally from 0.2 to 3.0 meq/gm.
  • the cationic charge density of the polymer is suitably determined via the Kjeldahl method as described in the US
  • Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyi and dialkyi (meth)acrylamides, alkyi (meth)acrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine.
  • the alkyi and dialkyi substituted monomers preferably have C1 -C7 alkyi groups, more preferably C1 -3 alkyi groups.
  • Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.
  • the cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary, are preferred.
  • Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized in the amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.
  • the cationic polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.
  • Suitable cationic polymers include, for example: cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-and co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, (as described in U.S. Patent 4,009,256); cationic polyacrylamides(as described in W095/2231 1 ).
  • CTFA cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers
  • Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions of the invention include monomers of the formula:
  • R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof.
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms.
  • the total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R 1 , R 2 and R 3
  • X is an anionic counterion.
  • cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from the Amerchol Corporation, for instance under the tradename Polymer LM-200.
  • Suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogen- containing cellulose ethers (e.g. as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g. as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581 ).
  • a particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (commercially available from Rhodia in their JAGUAR trademark series).
  • a cationic guar gum derivative such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (commercially available from Rhodia in their JAGUAR trademark series).
  • examples of such materials are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C14, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 and JAGUAR C16 Jaguar CHT and JAGUAR C162. Mixtures of any of the above cationic polymers may be used.
  • Cationic polymer will generally be present in a shampoo composition of the invention at levels of from 0.01 % to 5%, preferably from 0.03 % to 1 %, more preferably from 0.05 % to 0.5% by total weight of cationic polymer based on the total weight of the composition.
  • an aqueous shampoo composition of the invention further comprises a suspending agent.
  • Suitable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acid-containing monomers and acrylic esters, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives.
  • the long chain acyl derivative is desirably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides of fatty acids having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.
  • Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3 distearate are preferred long chain acyl derivatives, since these impart pearlescence to the composition.
  • Polyacrylic acid is available commercially as Carbopol 420, Carbopol 488 or Carbopol 493.
  • Polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with a polyfunctional agent may also be used; they are available commercially as Carbopol 910, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 941 and Carbopol 980.
  • An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing monomer and acrylic acid esters is Carbopol 1342. All Carbopol (trademark) materials are available from Lubrizol.
  • Suitable cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters are Pemulen TR1 or Pemulen TR2.
  • a suitable heteropolysacchande gum is xanthan gum, for example that available as Kelzan mu.
  • suspending agents may be used.
  • Preferred is a mixture of cross-linked polymer of acrylic acid and crystalline long chain acyl derivative.
  • Suspending agent will generally be present in a shampoo composition of the invention at levels of from 0.1 % to 10%, preferably from 0.5 % to 6 %, more preferably from 0.9 % to 4 % by total weight of suspending agent based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the shampoo composition has a pH of 2 to 8 measured using a calibrated pH meter, more preferably from 3 to 6.5.
  • the shampoo is stored in an air tight container such as a bottle closed with an air tight cap.
  • the polyphenol containing composition is preferably an aqueous polyphenol solution.
  • the polyphenol composition preferably comprises from 0.05 wt% to 10.0 wt% of the total polyphenol composition, more preferably from 0.1 wt% to 5.0 wt %, most preferably 0.3 wt% to 3.0 wt% of polyphenol.
  • the polyphenol of the invention comprises at least one benzene ring substituted with a first OH group and a second OH or OCH 3 group, preferably OH.
  • a first OH is ortho to the second OH group.
  • aqueous polyphenol solution has a pH preferably of 2 to 7 measured using a calibrated pH meter more preferably 3 to 6.
  • Polyphenols may be found in the classes of phenolic acid, Anthocyanin,
  • Anthocyanidin flavanols, flavanones and gallates.
  • flavan-3-ols flavan-4-ols, flavan-3,4-ols.
  • Gallic Acid flavanols and flavanones are preferred.
  • a preferred polyphenol contains a benzene ring substituted in the:
  • X is a carbon containing organic group, preferably selected from an ester group, COOH, chromenes and 3,4 dihydro- chromenes.
  • the polyphenol is a ortho-dihydroxybenzene derivative.
  • the polyphenol has a molecular weight of less than 1 ,000, more preferably less than 500, most preferably less than 310.
  • Polyphenols may be suitably found in the wood and bark of trees and in the fruit, seeds and nuts of plants.
  • Preferred compounds include gallic acid, methyl gallate, ethyl gallate, propyl gallate, caffeic acid, chlorogenic acid, caftaric acid, ellagic acid, ferulic acid, 4-0- galloylgallic acid, nordihydroguaiaretuc acid, rosemarinic acid, catechin, epicatechin, catechin gallate, epicatechin gallate, gallocatechin, epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, curcumin, alizarin, quercetin, quercicitron, myricetin, alizarin, purpurin, morindone, isorhamnetin, pachypodol, rhamnazin, hesperetin, homoeriodictyol, logwood, natural black 1 , natural black 2, natural red 24,
  • Fisetinidol Robinetinidol, Mesguitol. More preferably haematein, haematoxylin, brazilin, methyl gallate, ethyl gallate, propyl gallate, gallic acid, epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate and gallocatechin, most preferably from gallic acid, methyl gallate, ethyl gallate, propyl gallate or mixtures thereof.
  • the polyphenols are extracted from a natural source.
  • they do not contain any active oxidase enzymes and have been heat treated to destroy any enzyme activity.
  • the composition is stored in an airtight container, preferably a bottle closed with an air tight cap.
  • the aqueous polyphenol solution contains water, preferably as the dominate ingredient.
  • Auxiliary ingredients may be present for example to increase the viscosity, perfume and help solubilise the polyphenol.
  • Solubilising ingredients include organic solvents and surfactants.
  • the polyphenol containing composition is a conditioning composition, more preferably a rinse off conditioning composition.
  • a composition that is applied after shampooing is particularly preferred.
  • the polyphenol is preferably present at a higher molar concentration than the protonating organic acid.
  • the protonating organic acid does not include a polyphenol.
  • the water used to formulate all compositions has a French hardness of from 0 to 36 degrees, more preferably 0 to 24 degrees, most preferably from 0 to 2 degrees.
  • the water used to formulate all compositions contains less than 1 ppm of chlorine based bleaching agents such as chlorine dioxide or hypochlorite. Most preferably less than 50ppb.
  • chlorine based bleaching agents such as chlorine dioxide or hypochlorite.
  • compositions of the invention can contain, emulsified droplets of a silicone conditioning agent, for enhancing conditioning performance.
  • Silicone conditioning agents may be present in the shampoo or conditioner.
  • Suitable silicones include polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular
  • compositions of the invention which have the CTFA designation dimethicone.
  • compositions of the invention are polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol.
  • silicone gums having a slight degree of cross-linking as are described for example in WO 96/31 188.
  • the viscosity of the emulsified silicone itself (not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning composition) is typically at least 10,000 est at 25 °C the viscosity of the silicone itself is preferably at least 60,000 est, most preferably at least 500,000 est, ideally at least 1 ,000,000 est. Preferably the viscosity does not exceed 10 9 est for ease of formulation.
  • Emulsified silicones for use in the shampoo compositions of the invention will typically have an average silicone droplet size in the composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 10 ⁇ , ideally from 0.01 to 1 ⁇ .
  • Silicone emulsions having an average silicone droplet size of ⁇ 0.15 ⁇ are generally termed microemulsions.
  • Emulsified silicones for use in the conditioner compositions of the invention will typically have a size in the composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 15.
  • the average silicone droplet is greater than 0.5 ⁇ , more preferably greater than 1 ⁇ , ideally from 2 to 8 ⁇
  • Silicone particle size may be measured by means of a laser light scattering technique, for example using a 2600D Particle Sizer from Malvern Instruments.
  • Suitable pre-formed emulsions include Xiameter MEM 1785 and microemulsion DC2-1865 available from Dow Corning. These are emulsions /microemulsions of dimethiconol. Cross-linked silicone gums are also available in a pre-emulsified form, which is advantageous for ease of formulation
  • a further preferred class of silicones for inclusion in shampoos and conditioners of the invention are amino functional silicones.
  • amino functional silicone is meant a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • suitable amino functional silicones include: polysiloxanes having the CTFA designation "amodimethicone”.
  • Specific examples of amino functional silicones suitable for use in the invention are the aminosilicone oils DC2-8220, DC2-8166 and DC2-8566 (all ex Dow
  • Suitable quaternary silicone polymers are described in EP-A-0 530 974.
  • a preferred quaternary silicone polymer is K3474, ex Goldschmidt.
  • emulsions of amino functional silicone oils with non ionic and/or cationic surfactant are also suitable from suppliers of silicone oils such as Dow Corning and General Electric. Specific examples include DC939 Cationic Emulsion and the non-ionic emulsions DC2-7224, DC2-8467, DC2-8177 and DC2-8154 (all ex Dow Corning). With some shampoos it is preferred to use a combination of amino and non amino functional silicones
  • the total amount of silicone is preferably from 0.01 wt% to 10 %wt of the total composition more preferably from 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, most preferably 0.5 wt% to 3 wt% is a suitable level, especially for a shampoo composition.
  • Non-silicone Oily Conditioning Components may also comprise a dispersed, non-volatile, water-insoluble oily conditioning agent.
  • a dispersed, non-volatile, water-insoluble oily conditioning agent Preferably such non-silicone conditioning oily conditioning agents are present in conditioner compositions.
  • insoluble is meant that the material is not soluble in water (distilled or equivalent) at a concentration of 0.1 % (w/w), at 25°C.
  • Suitable oily or fatty materials are selected from hydrocarbon oils, fatty esters and mixtures thereof.
  • Straight chain hydrocarbon oils will preferably contain from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms.
  • polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers such as C2-C6 alkenyl monomers.
  • hydrocarbon oils include paraffin oil, mineral oil, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturated and unsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane, saturated and unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and unsaturated hexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • Branched-chain isomers of these compounds, as well as of higher chain length hydrocarbons, can also be used.
  • Suitable fatty esters are characterised by having at least 10 carbon atoms, and include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols, Monocarboxylic acid esters include esters of alcohols and/or acids of the formula R'COOR in which R' and R independently denote alkyl or alkenyl radicals and the sum of carbon atoms in R' and R is at least 10, preferably at least 20. Di- and trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids can also be used.
  • Particularly preferred fatty esters are mono-, di- and triglycerides, more
  • Preferred materials include cocoa butter, palm stearin, sunflower oil, soyabean oil and coconut oil.
  • the oily or fatty material is suitably present at a level of from 0.05 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably from 0.2 wt% to 5wt%, more preferably from about 0.5 wt% to 3 wt%.
  • Such conditioner compositions will typically comprise one or more conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.
  • Suitable conditioning surfactants include those selected from cationic surfactants, used singly or in admixture.
  • the cationic surfactants have the formula N + R 1 R 2 R 3 R 4 wherein R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently (Ci to C 30 ) alkyl or benzyl.
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently (Ci to C 30 ) alkyl or benzyl.
  • one, two or three of R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently (C 4 to C30) alkyl and the other R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 group or groups are (C-i-Ce) alkyl or benzyl.
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently (C6 to C30) alkyl and the other R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 groups are (C-i-Ce) alkyl or benzyl groups.
  • the alkyl groups may comprise one or more ester (-OCO- or - COO-) and/or ether (-O-) linkages within the alkyl chain.
  • Alkyl groups may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • Alkyl groups may be straight chain or branched and, for alkyl groups having 3 or more carbon atoms, cyclic.
  • the alkyl groups may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon- carbon double bonds (eg, oleyl).
  • Alkyl groups are optionally ethoxylated on the alkyl chain with one or more ethyleneoxy groups.
  • Suitable cationic surfactants for use in conditioner compositions according to the invention include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride,
  • dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride (eg, Arquad 2HT/75 from Akzo Nobel), cocotrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2-oleammonium chloride and the corresponding hydroxides thereof.
  • dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenz
  • cationic surfactants include those materials having the CTFA designations Quaternium-5, Quaternium- 31 and Quaternium-18. Mixtures of any of the foregoing materials may also be suitable.
  • a particularly useful cationic surfactant for use in conditioners according to the invention is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as GENAMIN CTAC, ex Hoechst Celanese.
  • Another particularly useful cationic surfactant for use in conditioners according to the invention is
  • behenyltrimethylammonium chloride available commercially, for example as GENAMIN KDMP, ex Clariant.
  • R 1 is a hydrocarbyl chain having 10 or more carbon atoms
  • R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from hydrocarbyl chains of from 1 to
  • hydrocarbyl chain means an alkyl or alkenyl chain.
  • Preferred amidoamine compounds are those corresponding to formula (I) in which
  • R 1 is a hydrocarbyl residue having from about 1 1 to about 24 carbon atoms
  • R 2 and R 3 are each independently hydrocarbyl residues, preferably alkyl groups, having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms
  • m is an integer from 1 to about 4.
  • R 2 and R 3 are methyl or ethyl groups.
  • m is 2 or 3, i.e. an ethylene or propylene group.
  • Preferred amidoamines useful herein include stearamido-propyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine,
  • amidoamines useful herein are N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N
  • stearamidopropyldimethylamine stearamidoethyldiethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
  • amidoamines useful herein include:
  • stearamidopropyldimethylamine with tradenames LEXAMINE S-13 available from Inolex (Philadelphia Pennsylvania, USA) and AMIDOAMINE MSP available from Nikko (Tokyo, Japan), stearamidoethyldiethylamine with a tradename
  • AMIDOAMINE S available from Nikko, behenamidopropyldimethylamine with a tradename INCROMINE BB available from Croda (North Humberside, England), and various amidoamines with tradenames SCHERCODINE series available from Scher (Clifton New Jersey, USA).
  • a protonating acid may be present.
  • Acid may be any organic or mineral acid which is capable of protonating the amidoamine in the conditioner composition.
  • Suitable acids useful herein include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the acid is selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid and mixtures thereof.
  • the primary role of the acid is to protonate the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition thus forming a tertiary amine salt (TAS) in situ in the hair treatment composition.
  • TAS tertiary amine salt
  • the TAS in effect is a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudo-quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.
  • the acid is included in a sufficient amount to protonate more than 95 mole% (293 K) of the amidoamine present.
  • the level of cationic surfactant will generally range from 0.01 % to 10 %, more preferably 0.05 % to 7.5 %, most preferably 0.1 % to 5 % by weight of the composition.
  • Conditioners of the invention will typically also incorporate a fatty alcohol. The combined use of fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants in conditioning
  • compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.
  • Representative fatty alcohols comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22.
  • Fatty alcohols are typically compounds containing straight chain alkyl groups. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also
  • compositions of the invention are advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions of the invention.
  • the level of fatty alcohol in conditioners of the invention will generally range from 0.01 % to 10 %, preferably from 0.1 % to 8 %, more preferably from 0.2 % to 7 %, most preferably from 0.3 % to 6 % by weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitably from 1 : 1 to 1 : 10, preferably from 1 : 1.5 to 1 :8, optimally from 1 :2 to 1 :5. If the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is too high, this can lead to eye irritancy from the composition. If it is too low, it can make the hair feel squeaky for some consumers. Adjuncts
  • compositions of the present invention may also contain adjuncts suitable for hair care.
  • adjuncts suitable for hair care Generally such ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 2 wt%, preferably up to 1 wt% of the total composition.
  • Suitable hair care adjuncts include amino acids, sugars and ceramides and viscosity modifiers.
  • the method of colouring hair comprising the steps of applying to hair sequentially in any order:
  • a second composition which comprises from 0.05 wt% to 10 wt% of the total second composition of a polyphenol.
  • compositions of the invention are applied to wet hair, necessitating the step of wetting the hair before application of the compositions of the invention.
  • a method preferably comprises the step of rinsing hair between application of the shampoo composition (i) and the second composition (ii). It is highly preferred if the hair is rinsed after application of both compositions of the invention.
  • the level of each composition applied to the head of hair is preferably from 5g to 100g.
  • each composition remains on the hair for 5 to 600 seconds, more prefrablyl 0-300 seconds.
  • the water used to wet and rinse the hair has a French hardness of from 0 to 36 degrees, more preferably 0 to 24 degrees, most preferably from 0 to 2 degrees.
  • the water used to wet and rinse the hair contains less than 1 ppm of chlorine based bleaching agents such as chlorine dioxide or hypochlorite. Most preferably less than 50ppb
  • Examples of the invention are illustrated by a number, comparative examples are illustrated by a letter.
  • Example A % wt of Fe ion in Example A is 0.14.
  • Example 1 % wt of Fe ion in Example 1 is 0.14
  • Example A discoloured quickly within 10 minutes at room temperature, Example 1 remained stable for a month at room temperature.
  • a bleached hair switch was wet by placing under a tap for 30 seconds (room temperature water).
  • the shampoo formulation (0.2g/g hair) was massaged into the hair for 30 seconds, left for 1 minute 30 seconds then rinsed for 30 seconds under the tap.
  • the shampoo sequence was repeated.
  • the switch was then massaged for 1 minute with conditioner (0.2g/g hair) after a further 4 minutes the switch was rinsed for 1 minute and left to dry.
  • Table 4 demonstrates that the switch treated with the Example according to the invention was darker than comparative Example A.

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un kit de coloration pour cheveux comprenant : (i) une composition aqueuse pour shampooing comprenant a) de 0,01 à 10 % en poids de la composition totale de shampooing en au moins un ion métallique sous la forme d'un complexe, le métal étant choisi parmi le fer, le cuivre, le zinc ou le manganèse ou des mélanges de ceux-ci, b) de 0,5 à 25 % en poids de la composition totale de shampooing comprenant un sulfate d'éther d'alkyle; et (ii) une seconde composition aqueuse comprenant de 0,05 à 10 % en poids de la seconde composition totale en polyphénol.
PCT/EP2012/056160 2011-04-13 2012-04-04 Composition de soin des cheveux WO2012139947A2 (fr)

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US3962418A (en) 1972-12-11 1976-06-08 The Procter & Gamble Company Mild thickened shampoo compositions with conditioning properties
US4009256A (en) 1973-11-19 1977-02-22 National Starch And Chemical Corporation Novel shampoo composition containing a water-soluble cationic polymer
EP0327345A2 (fr) 1988-02-04 1989-08-09 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Composition pour rendre plus foncé les cheveux
WO1992006154A1 (fr) 1990-09-28 1992-04-16 The Procter & Gamble Company Tensioactifs d'amides de l'acide gras de polyhydroxy destines a ameliorer l'efficacite des enzymes
EP0530974A1 (fr) 1991-08-05 1993-03-10 Unilever Plc Compositions pour le soin des cheveux
US5194639A (en) 1990-09-28 1993-03-16 The Procter & Gamble Company Preparation of polyhydroxy fatty acid amides in the presence of solvents
WO1995022311A1 (fr) 1994-02-18 1995-08-24 Unilever Plc Compositions de detersif pour soins corporels
WO1996031188A1 (fr) 1995-04-06 1996-10-10 Unilever Plc Compositions pour traitement capillaire
WO2000029036A2 (fr) 1998-11-17 2000-05-25 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Colorant contenant des complexes a metaux de transition
WO2007130777A2 (fr) 2006-05-01 2007-11-15 Advanced Cosmetic Technologies Llc Composition de coloration de fibres de kératine et procédé de coloration des cheveux au moyen de cette dernière
WO2010135237A1 (fr) 2009-05-18 2010-11-25 Advanced Cosmetic Technologies, Llc Composition pour la teinture de fibres de kératine et procédé de teinture de cheveux l'utilisant

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US3962418A (en) 1972-12-11 1976-06-08 The Procter & Gamble Company Mild thickened shampoo compositions with conditioning properties
US4009256A (en) 1973-11-19 1977-02-22 National Starch And Chemical Corporation Novel shampoo composition containing a water-soluble cationic polymer
EP0327345A2 (fr) 1988-02-04 1989-08-09 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Composition pour rendre plus foncé les cheveux
WO1992006154A1 (fr) 1990-09-28 1992-04-16 The Procter & Gamble Company Tensioactifs d'amides de l'acide gras de polyhydroxy destines a ameliorer l'efficacite des enzymes
US5194639A (en) 1990-09-28 1993-03-16 The Procter & Gamble Company Preparation of polyhydroxy fatty acid amides in the presence of solvents
EP0530974A1 (fr) 1991-08-05 1993-03-10 Unilever Plc Compositions pour le soin des cheveux
WO1995022311A1 (fr) 1994-02-18 1995-08-24 Unilever Plc Compositions de detersif pour soins corporels
WO1996031188A1 (fr) 1995-04-06 1996-10-10 Unilever Plc Compositions pour traitement capillaire
WO2000029036A2 (fr) 1998-11-17 2000-05-25 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Colorant contenant des complexes a metaux de transition
WO2007130777A2 (fr) 2006-05-01 2007-11-15 Advanced Cosmetic Technologies Llc Composition de coloration de fibres de kératine et procédé de coloration des cheveux au moyen de cette dernière
WO2010135237A1 (fr) 2009-05-18 2010-11-25 Advanced Cosmetic Technologies, Llc Composition pour la teinture de fibres de kératine et procédé de teinture de cheveux l'utilisant

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