WO2012130690A2 - Process for treating human perspiration using a tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer; compositions - Google Patents

Process for treating human perspiration using a tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer; compositions Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012130690A2
WO2012130690A2 PCT/EP2012/054999 EP2012054999W WO2012130690A2 WO 2012130690 A2 WO2012130690 A2 WO 2012130690A2 EP 2012054999 W EP2012054999 W EP 2012054999W WO 2012130690 A2 WO2012130690 A2 WO 2012130690A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
radical
composition
acid
weight
vinyl
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PCT/EP2012/054999
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French (fr)
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WO2012130690A3 (en
Inventor
Laurence Sebillotte-Arnaud
Xavier Jalenques
Marco Vicic
Odile Aubrun
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L'oreal
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Priority claimed from FR1152685A external-priority patent/FR2973242B1/en
Priority claimed from FR1152683A external-priority patent/FR2973240B1/en
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2012130690A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012130690A2/en
Publication of WO2012130690A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012130690A3/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046Aerosols; Foams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87Polyurethanes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/87Application Devices; Containers; Packaging
    • A61K2800/874Roll-on

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration, characterized in that it consists in applying to the surface of the skin a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer chosen from:
  • the invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer as defined above as an antiperspirant agent especially in a composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer and at least one additional antiperspirant agent.
  • astringent salts such as aluminium and/or zirconium salts, which have the effect of limiting or even preventing the flow of sweat.
  • astringent salts such as aluminium and/or zirconium salts
  • aluminium salts partly block perspiration via the formation of a partial plug in the sweat duct, giving the consumer the impression of unnatural control of perspiration. Furthermore, they also have a tendency to leave marks, in particular white marks, on clothing.
  • Patent application WO 95/27473 it has already been proposed in patent application WO 95/27473 to use, as antiperspirant active agents, insoluble cationic polymers whose main chain is hydrocarbon-based and which comprise hydrophobic quaternary ammonium side groups.
  • Patent application WO 01/54658 describes anhydrous compositions containing a cyanoacrylate monomer that reacts with sweat to form in situ by polymerization a film on the skin the blocks the sweat ducts. These polymers have the drawback of reacting directly on the skin in the presence of water, which causes an undesired temperature increase in the underarm area.
  • Patent US 6 387 356 B1 (Colgate) describes alcoholic compositions comprising a cellulose acetate butyrate ester (CAB 553-0.4,CAB 504-0.2) that is capable of forming a thin film on the skin characterized by a certain hardness and water- transporting properties which reduce or eliminate the sensation of moisture associated with perspiration.
  • a cellulose acetate butyrate ester CAB 553-0.4,CAB 504-0.2
  • DE 2947060 describes antiperspirant compositions containing a plasticizer-free aqueous dispersion of acrylic resin.
  • Patent applications FR-A-2 758 083, WO 98/29091 , EP 1 038 519 and FR 2 843 025 disclose film-forming tautening polymers used in the treatment of ageing of the skin and especially of wrinkles. Their use as agents for treating human perspiration was not known hitherto.
  • PSA pressure-sensitive adhesive
  • the Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that certain tautening hydrophobic film- forming polymers have good antiperspirant efficacy without having the drawbacks mentioned previously. They can be formulated easily in products for reducing perspiration without it being necessary to use standard astringent salts.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration, characterized in that it consists in applying to the surface of the skin a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer chosen from:
  • cosmetically acceptable medium means a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the scalp, the nails, mucous membranes, the eyes and the hair, or any other area of bodily skin.
  • a cosmetically acceptable medium is preferentially a medium that has no unpleasant odour, colour or appearance, and that is entirely compatible with the route of administration under consideration.
  • antiperspirant means any substance which has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat and/or of reducing the sensation of moisture associated with human sweat, and/or of masking human sweat.
  • tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer means any polymer having the following three properties:
  • the amount of water absorbed by the hydrophobic polymers according to the present invention may be measured under the following conditions:
  • One of the rectangular films obtained is weighed when dry, which corresponds to the mass of the film before immersion in the water, or the mass of the dry film.
  • the same film is then dipped in a 30 ml_ flask filled with water, for a duration of 60 minutes. After each immersion in water, the excess surface water is removed by very gently pressing the film onto blotting paper and the film is weighed, which corresponds to the mass of the film after immersion in water.
  • the percentage of water absorbed or the water uptake of the polymer after 60 minutes is calculated according to the following equation:
  • the operation is repeated three times for each of the polymers tested.
  • the average of the three percentages of absorption is calculated, to deduce therefrom the percentage of water absorbed by the polymer.
  • the tautening effect may be characterized by an in vitro shrinkage test.
  • a homogeneous mixture of the tautening polymer in its solvent or dispersant at a concentration of 7% by weight is prepared.
  • 30 ⁇ of the homogeneous mixture are placed on a rectangular specimen (10 x 40 mm, thus having an initial width L 0 of 10 mm) of elastomer with a modulus of 20 MPa and a thickness of 100 pm.
  • the elastomer specimen After drying for 3 hours at 22 ⁇ 3°C and 40 ⁇ 10% relative humidity RH, the elastomer specimen has a shrunken width, noted L 3h , due to the tension exerted by the applied tautening polymer.
  • the tautening effect (TE) of the said polymer is then quantified in the following manner:
  • the tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymers in accordance with the present invention are preferably synthetic polymers.
  • synthetic polymer means any polymer obtained chemically or via production in an organism of the elements necessary for this production.
  • the tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymers according to the invention are chosen from:
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one film-forming tautening synthetic polymer of interpenetrating polymer network type.
  • interpenetrating polymer network means a blend of two interlaced polymers, obtained by simultaneous polymerization and/or crosslinking of two types of monomer, the blend obtained having a single glass transition temperature range.
  • An IPN that is particularly preferred is in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles with a number-average size ranging from 50 nm to 100 nm.
  • the IPN preferably has a glass transition temperature (Tg) ranging from about -50°C to +130°C and preferably from -45°C to +130°C.
  • Tg glass transition temperature
  • the Tg is especially measured by differential scanning colorimetry (or DSC) using the DSC 7 machine from the company Perkin-Elmer, the polymer sample being preconditioned in a climatic chamber for 48 hours at 25°C and 50% relative humidity, in an aluminium crucible.
  • DSC differential scanning colorimetry
  • the measurement is taken under a nitrogen flush, with a first heating ranging from -45°C to +140°C at a rate of 10°C/minute and a second heating ranging from - 45°C to +230°C.
  • the polyurethane/acrylic interpenetrating polymer network may be prepared according to the process described in patent US 5 173 526.
  • This process comprises the following steps: (a) forming a water-dispersible isocyanate-term inated polyurethane prepolymer comprising carboxylate groups;
  • the isocyanate-terminated polyurethane prepolymer may be obtained by reaction of organic monomer containing at least two active hydrogen atoms per molecule, especially a diol and preferably a polyester polyol, with an excess of diisocyanate monomer.
  • the polyurethane prepolymer comprises unreacted carboxylic acid groups that are neutralized in tertiary amine salt form after the formation of the prepolymer and addition of the vinyl monomers, but before the formation of the aqueous dispersion.
  • the polyisocyanates used in the manufacture of the prepolymer may be aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic.
  • polyisocyanates that may be mentioned include ethylene diisocyanate hexamethylene 1 ,6-diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, cyclohexane 1 ,4-diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'- diisocyanate, phenylene 1 ,4-diisocyanate, toluene 2,4-diisocyanate, toluene 2,6- diisocyanate, diphenylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, diphenylmethane 2,4'- diisocyanate and naphthylene 1 ,5-diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polymeric polyols with a molecular weight ranging from 500 to 6000 and preferably ranging from 700 to 3000, which may be used for the preparation of the prepolymer, may be chosen from diols and triols, or mixtures thereof.
  • the polyols may be chosen especially from polyesters, polyester amides, polyethers, polythioethers, polycarbonates and polyacetals.
  • the polyester polyols may be chosen from the hydroxyl oil-terminated reaction products of polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 1 ,4-butanediol, furandimethanol, cyclohexanedimethanol, glycerol, trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol, or mixtures thereof, with polycarboxylic acids, in particular dicarboxylic acids or the ester form thereof, such as succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid or the methyl ester thereof, phthalic anhydride or dimethyl terephthalate. Polyesters obtained by polymerization of lactones, for instance caprolactone, and of polyol may also be used. The polyesteramides may be obtained by using amino alcohols such as ethanolamine in the polyesterification mixture.
  • polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, n
  • the polyether polyols that may be used include the products obtained by polymerization of cyclic oxide, for example ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, tetrahydrofuran, or by addition of these cyclic oxides to polyfunctional initiators such as water, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, glycerol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol or bisphenol A.
  • cyclic oxide for example ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, tetrahydrofuran
  • polyfunctional initiators such as water, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, glycerol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol or bisphenol A.
  • the polyethers may also be chosen from polyoxypropylene diols and triols, poly(oxyethylene-oxypropylene) diols and triols obtained by simultaneous or sequential addition of propylene oxide and of ethylene oxide with suitable initiators, and polytetramethylene glycol ethers obtained by polymerization of tetrahydrofuran.
  • the polythioether polyols may be chosen from the products obtained by condensation of thiodiglycol, either alone or with other glycols, dicarboxylic acids, formaldehyde, amino alcohols or carboxylic amino acids.
  • the polycarbonate polyols may be chosen from the reaction products of diols such as 1 ,3-propanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 1 ,6-hexanediol, diethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol with diaryl carbonates, for instance diphenyl carbonate, or with phosgene.
  • the polyacetal polyols may be chosen from the reaction products of glycols such as diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol or hexanediol with formaldehyde.
  • the compounds bearing a reactive isocyanate group containing acid groups which may be used in the preparation of the water-dispersible anionic prepolymers, comprise diols and triols containing carboxylic acid groups, for example those of formula (1 ):
  • the diol containing a carboxylic group is preferably 2,2-dimethylolpropionic acid.
  • the diol or triol containing a carboxylic group may be incorporated into a polyester by reaction with a dicarboxylic acid before being introduced into the prepolymer.
  • Compounds bearing an acid group are, for example, aminocarboxylic acids, for example lysine, cystine or 3,5-diaminobenzoic acid.
  • the water-dispersible anionic isocyanate-term inated polyurethane prepolymer may be prepared in a conventional manner by reacting a stoichiometric excess of an organic polyisocyanate with a polymeric polyol and any other necessary compound that reacts with an isocyanate under anhydrous conditions at a temperature of between 30 and 130°C until the reaction between the isocyanate groups and a hydroxyl groups is complete.
  • the polyisocyanate and the compounds containing an active hydrogen are advantageously used such that the ratio of the number of isocyanate groups to the number of hydroxyl groups ranges from 1 .1/1 to 6/1 and preferably from 1.5/1 to 3/1 . It is possible to use a well-known tin catalyst to assist the formation of the prepolymer.
  • a mixture of water-dispersible polyurethane prepolymer containing carboxylic groups and the vinyl monomer is obtained by simple addition of the vinyl monomer composition to the prepolymer.
  • the vinyl monomer composition must contain at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer.
  • the vinyl monomers that may be added to the prepolymer may be ethylenically unsaturated hydrocarbon-based monomers, ethylenically unsaturated esters, ethylenically unsaturated ethers, in particular (meth)acrylic acid esters, vinyl alcohol esters, or styrene.
  • the polyethylenically unsaturated monomers may be chosen from butadiene, isoprene, allyl methacrylate, diesters of acrylic acid and of C2-C6 diols such as butylene diacrylate and hexylene diacrylate, divinylbenzene, divinyl ether, divinyl sulfide and trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
  • the vinyl monomer is methyl methacrylate.
  • a tertiary amine is added to the mixture in an amount sufficient to make the prepolymer water- dispersible, i.e. in an amount sufficient to neutralize the carboxylic groups.
  • the amine may be added in an amount ranging from 65% to 100% of amine equivalent per equivalent of carboxylic function.
  • the tertiary amines that may be used are relatively volatile, such that they are evaporated from the film after the film formation.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include amines of formula R-N(Ri)(R 2 ) in which R, Ri and R 2 independently represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group. Examples that may be mentioned include triethylamine, dimethylethanolamine, methyldiethanolamine and methyldiethylamine.
  • the tertiary amine is important for the tertiary amine to be added to the mixture of prepolymer/monomers before this mixture is dispersed in water, in order to ensure compatibility of the organic and aqueous phases in the dispersion obtained.
  • the prepolymer/vinyl monomer mixture may be dispersed in water using the known techniques. Preferably, the mixture is added to water with stirring, or water may be poured into the mixture.
  • the chain extender containing the active hydrogen that reacts with the free polymer may be a polyol, an amino alcohol, aqueous ammonia, a primary or secondary amine and, more particularly, a diamine.
  • the free-radical initiator may be an initiator of azo type such as 2,2'-azobis(2,4- dimethylpentanenitrile) and 2,2' azobis(2-methylpropanenitrile) [or AIBN].
  • the radical polymerization of the mixture of vinyl monomers and the prepolymer chain extender is advantageously performed at high temperature, for example between 50°C and 90°C and preferably between 60°C and 80°C.
  • the amount of chain extender used is advantageously equivalent to the free isocyanate groups in the prepolymer, the ratio of the number of active hydrogens in the chain extender to the number of isocyanate groups in the prepolymer preferably ranging from 0.7 to 1 .3.
  • the polymerization of the vinyl monomers may be performed according to two methods. According to a first method, the monomers are added and may swell the polyurethane prepolymer before the addition of the tertiary amine. The monomers are then polymerized using the free-radical initiator.
  • the proportion of the vinyl monomers may range from 25% to 75% by weight and preferably from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of solids in the aqueous dispersion.
  • part of the vinyl monomers is added to the prepolymer, the mixture is then neutralized with the tertiary amine and the prepolymer/vinyl monomer mixture is dispersed in water, followed by polymerization, during which the rest of the monomers is added.
  • the second portion of monomers may be added to the prepolymer/vinyl monomer dispersion after addition of the amine, and the mixture stirred before the start of the polymerization.
  • the polymer dispersion may contain from 20% to 60% by weight of solids.
  • the polyurethane present in the IPN is a copolymer of polyester polyol/diol containing a carboxylic acid group/diisocyanate/diamine, such as those described previously, for example; the acrylic polymer present in the IPN is a polymethyl methacrylate.
  • Use is preferably made of the polyurethane/acrylic polymer IPN sold by the company Air Products under the trade name Hybridur® 875 Polymer Dispersion (INCI name: Polyurethane-2 (and) Polymethyl Methacrylate), or alternatively under the trade names Hybridur® 870 and Hybridur® 880.
  • non-neutralized copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of N-tert-butylacrylamide means any copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of N-tert- butylacrylamide in which the (meth)acrylic acid units are free and are not neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
  • copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of N-tert-butylacrylamide use will preferably be made of non-neutralized copolymers of acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N- tert-butylacrylamide (in which the acrylic acid is in free form) such as the products Ultrahold Strong and Ultrahold® 8 (INCI name: Acrylates/t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer) from the company BASF.
  • Ultrahold Strong and Ultrahold® 8 INCCI name: Acrylates/t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer
  • non-neutralized copolymer of vinyl acetate, vinyl or (meth)allylic ester of a- or ⁇ -cyclic carboxylic acid and unsaturated carboxylic acid means any copolymer of vinyl acetate, of a vinyl or (meth)allylic ester of a- or ⁇ -cyclic carboxylic acid and of unsaturated carboxylic acid whose carboxylic acid functions are free and are not neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
  • non-neutralized copolymers of vinyl acetate, of vinyl or (meth)allylic ester of an a- or ⁇ -cyclic carboxylic acid and of unsaturated carboxylic acid are those described in patent FR 2 439 798. They correspond to the general formula (I) below:
  • n, s and t are equal to 1 or 2;
  • R, R' and R" represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • Z is a divalent group of formula
  • Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 2 -C 21 alkyl radical
  • Cyc is a saturated or unsaturated monocyclic or polycyclic radical in particular
  • R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical and p is equal to 1 or 2; (ii) a radical of formula:
  • R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl, ethoxy, butoxy or dodecyloxy radical and R 4 denotes a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C 4 alkyl or Ci-C 4 alkoxy radical; or
  • Cyc is a radical of formula:
  • R' 3 and R' 4 have, respectively, the same meanings as R 3 and R 4 ;
  • v represents from 10% to 91 % by weight and preferably from 36% to 84% by weight
  • w represents from 3% to 20% by weight and preferably from 6% to 12% by weight
  • x represents from 4% to 60% by weight and preferably from 6% to 40% by weight
  • y represents from 0 to 40% by weight
  • the units of formula (lb) are obtained by polymerization of an unsaturated carboxylic acid of formula (II):
  • the units of formula (lc) are obtained by polymerization of a vinyl or (meth)allylic ester of an a- or ⁇ -cyclic carboxylic acid of formula (III):
  • esters mention may be made in particular of vinyl or (meth)allylic esters of 1 -adamantanecarboxylic acid, cyclohexanecarboxylic acid, cyclopentanecarboxylic acid, benzoic acid, phenylacetic acid, tert-butyl-4-benzoic acid, 1 -methylcyclopentane-1 -carboxylic acid, 1 -methylcyclohexane-1 -carboxylic acid, [tricyclo-5.1 .2.0 2,6 ]-decane-3-carboxylic acid and [tricyclo-5.1 .2.0 2,6 ]-decane- 4-carboxylic acid sold by the company Hoechst under the name TCD Carboxylic Acid S.
  • the copolymers may also contain units of formula (Id) that are obtained by polymerization of a vinyl or (meth)allylic ester of a carboxylic acid of formula (IV):
  • esters mention may be made in particular of vinyl or (meth)allylic esters of propionic acid, butyric acid, pivalic acid, hexanoic acid, octanoic acid, decanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, behenic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, 2,2-dimethylpentanoic acid, 2,2- dimethylhexanoic acid, 2,2-dimethyldecanoic acid, 2,2,4,4-tetramethylvaleric acid acid, 2-isopropyl-2,3-dimethylbutyric acid, 2-methyl-2-ethylheptanoic acid, 2- methyl-2-propylhexanoic acid, 2-methyl-2-isopropylhexanoic acid, 3,5,5- trimethylhexanoic acid and isomers thereof, and mixtures thereof, in particular mixtures of C10 alkyl fatty acids, but
  • the copolymers of formula (I) have a number-average molecular weight ranging from 5000 to 60 000 and more particularly from 10 000 to 45 000. These weights are determined on a number basis by osmometry.
  • Use will preferentially be made of a terpolymer of vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl tert-butyl-4-benzoate and in particular the copolymer of vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl tert-butyl-4-benzoate (65%/10%/25% by weight) (INCI name: Vinyl acetate/vinyl butyl benzoate/crotonates copolymer) in non-neutralized form, such as the commercial product Mexomer PW manufactured by the company Chimex.
  • the hydrophobic film-forming tautening polymers in accordance with the invention are preferably present in concentrations ranging from 1 % to 50% by weight and preferentially from 3% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gel, or in the form of aqueous, aqueous- alcoholic or alcoholic solutions.
  • the invention also relates to compositions conditioned in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump-dispenser bottle; conditioned in a device equipped with a perforated wall, especially a grille; conditioned in a device equipped with a ball applicator ("roll-on").
  • they contain the ingredients generally used in products of this type, which are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • compositions according to the invention may be anhydrous.
  • anhydrous composition means a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% water, and especially free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.
  • the aqueous phase of the aqueous compositions contains water and generally other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents.
  • the water-soluble or water- miscible solvents comprise monoalcohols with a short chain, for example of Ci-C 4 , such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, for instance ethylene glycol, 1 ,2- propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether and sorbitol.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additional antiperspirant agents, in particular aluminium and/or zirconium salts or complexes.
  • the antiperspirant salts or complexes are generally chosen from aluminium and/or zirconium salts or complexes. They are preferably chosen from aluminium halohydrates; aluminium zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid, such as those described in patent US-3 792 068.
  • aluminium chlorohydrate in activated or unactivated form aluminium chlorohydrex, the aluminium chlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium chlorohydrex- propylene glycol complex, aluminium dichlorohydrate, the aluminium dicnlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium dichlorohydrex- propylene glycol complex, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminium sesquichlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium sesquichlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminium sulfate buffered with sodium aluminium lactate.
  • An aluminium chlorohydrate in activated or inactivated form will be used more particularly.
  • aluminium-zirconium salts mention may be made in particular of aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate and aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate.
  • the complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known as ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine).
  • ZAG when the amino acid is glycine.
  • these products mention may be made of the aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrex-glycine complexes, the aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrex- glycine complexes, the aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex-glycine complexes and the aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrex-glycine complexes.
  • the antiperspirant salts or complexes may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion from about 0 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • moisture absorbers for instance perlites and preferably expanded perlites.
  • the perlites that may be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have as the composition:
  • perlite is ground, dried and then calibrated in a first step.
  • the product obtained, known as perlite ore, is grey-coloured and has a size of about 100 m.
  • the perlite ore is then expanded (1000°C/2 seconds) to give more or less white particles.
  • the temperature reaches 850-900°C, the water trapped in the structure of the material evaporates and brings about the expansion of the material relative to its original volume.
  • the expanded perlite particles in accordance with the invention may be obtained via the expansion process described in patent US 5 002 698.
  • the perlite particles used are ground: in this case, they are known as Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP). They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D 50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 pm and preferably from 0.5 to 40 pm. Preferably, the perlite particles used have an untamped apparent density at 25°C ranging from 10 to 400 kg/m 3 (standard DIN 53468) and preferably from 10 to 300 kg/m 3 .
  • EMP Expanded Milled Perlite
  • the expanded perlite particles according to the invention have a water- absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 200% to 1500% and preferably from 250% to 800%.
  • the wet point corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 1 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • This method is derived directly from that of the oil uptake applied to solvents.
  • the measurements are taken in the same manner by means of the wet point and the flow point, which have, respectively, the following definition: wet point: mass expressed in grams per 100 g of product corresponding to the production of a homogeneous paste during the addition of a solvent to a powder; flow point: mass expressed in grams per 100 g of product at and above which the amount of solvent is greater than the capacity of the powder to retain it. This is reflected by the production of a more or less homogeneous mixture that flows on a glass plate.
  • the wet point and the flow point are measured according to the following protocol: Protocol for measuring the water absorption
  • Spatula wooden and partly metallic handle, 15 x 2.7 mm
  • the mass of solvent needed to obtain the wet point is noted. Further solvent is added and the mass required to reach the flow point is noted. The average of three tests is determined.
  • compositions according to the invention may also optionally contain one or more deodorant agents.
  • the deodorant agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericides that act on underarm odour microorganisms, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether ( ⁇ Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1 -(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea ( ⁇ Triclocarban) or 3,7, 1 1 - trimethyldodeca-2,5, 10-trienol ( ⁇ Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1 ,3- diaminopropanetetraacetic acid), 1 ,2-decanediol (Symclariol from the company Symrise), small surfactants derived from g
  • deodorant active agents in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of - zinc salts, for instance zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate; zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.
  • - zinc salts for instance zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate; zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.
  • the deodorant agents may be odour absorbers such as zinc ricinoleate, sodium bicarbonate; metallic or non-metallic zeolites, cyclodextrins or alum.
  • It may also be a chelating agent such as Dissolvine GL-47-S from Akzo Nobel, EDTA; DPTA.
  • It may also be a polyol such as glycerol or propane-1 ,3-diol (Zemea Propane diol sold by Dupont Tate and Lyle Bioproducts).
  • a polyol such as glycerol or propane-1 ,3-diol (Zemea Propane diol sold by Dupont Tate and Lyle Bioproducts).
  • it may be an enzyme inhibitor such as triethyl citrate.
  • the agents mentioned above may be incorporated into spherules, especially ionic or nonionic vesicles and/or nanoparticles (capsules and/or spheres).
  • the deodorant agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 % to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention will also contain an organic powder.
  • organic powder means any solid that is insoluble in the medium at room temperature (25°C).
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizers, vitamins, bactericides, preserving agents, polymers, fragrances, thickeners or suspension agents, propellants or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizers, vitamins, bactericides, preserving agents, polymers, fragrances, thickeners or suspension agents, propellants or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • the thickeners may be chosen from carboxyvinyl polymers, such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and the Pemulens (acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for instance the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/ Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance poly(2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or Simulgel 800 sold by
  • the thickeners may also be cationic, for instance Polyquaternium-37 sold under the name Salcare SC95 (Polyquaternium-37 (and) Mineral Oil (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) or Salcare SC96 (Polyquaternium-37 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) or other crosslinked cationic polymers, for instance those of the CTFA name Ethyl Acrylate/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Cationic Copolymer In Emulsion. SUSPENSION AGENTS IN OILY MEDIA
  • one or more suspension agents preferably chosen from hydrophobic modified montmorillonite clays such as hydrophobic modified bentonites or hectorites.
  • hydrophobic modified montmorillonite clays such as hydrophobic modified bentonites or hectorites.
  • examples that may be mentioned include Bentone Gel MIO sold by the company NL Industries, the product Stearalkonium Bentonite (CTFA name) (product of reaction of bentonite and quaternary ammonium stearalkonium chloride) such as the commercial product sold under the name Tixogel MP 250 by the company Sud Chemie Rheologicals, United Catalysts Inc.
  • CFA name Disteardimonium Hectorite (CTFA name) (product of reaction of hectorite and distearyldimonium chloride) sold under the name Bentone 38 or Bentone Gel by the company Elementis Specialities, or other clays, for instance Veegum Ultra sold by the company Polyplastic.
  • the suspension agents are preferably present in amounts ranging from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amounts of these various constituents that may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in compositions for treating perspiration.
  • compositions according to the invention may also be pressurized and may be conditioned in an aerosol device formed by:
  • the propellants generally used in products of this type and that are well known to those skilled in the art are, for instance, dimethyl ether (DME); volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane and mixtures thereof, optionally with at least one chlorohydrocarbon and/or fluorohydrocarbon; among these derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds sold by the company DuPont de Nemours under the names Freon® and Dymel®, and in particular monofluorotrichloromethane, difluorodichloromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane and 1 , 1 -difluoroethane sold especially under the trade name Dymel 152 A by the company DuPont.
  • DME dimethyl ether
  • volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane and mixtures thereof, optionally with at least one chlorohydrocarbon and/or fluorohydrocarbon; among these derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds sold
  • Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air may also be used as propellant.
  • the compositions containing perlite particles as defined previously and the propellant(s) may be in the same compartment or in different compartments in the aerosol container.
  • the concentration of propellant generally ranges from 5% to 95% by weight of pressurized composition, and more preferentially from 50% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the pressurized composition.
  • the dispensing means which forms a part of the aerosol device, is generally formed by a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, which itself comprises a nozzle via which the aerosol composition is vaporized.
  • the container containing the pressurized composition may be opaque or transparent. It may be made of glass, a polymer or a metal, optionally coated with a protective varnish coat.
  • Polyurethane-2 (and) Polymethyl 17% SM (i.e. 7% AM)
  • Glycerol (RG-995 from Kerry 0.7
  • Citric acid (Citric Acid Monohydrate from 0.05
  • phase A1 The ingredients of phase A1 are mixed together with Rayneri stirring at 75°C, followed by addition of phase A2 with mixing for 45 minutes. The resulting mixture is cooled to 60°C, phase B is then added, this mixture is cooled to 40°C, phase C is added, this mixture is cooled to 25°C and phase E is added, followed by F.
  • the Skinchip® machine is a machine that measures impedance and which retranscribes it into levels of grey. It is formed from a matrix of sensors that measure the electrical permittivity. The electrical permittivity depends on the moisturization of the skin and on the skin/sensor distance. Each sensor of the matrix gives coded information that then constitutes a black and white image.
  • the black pixels correspond to moisturized skin and/or to contact between the surface of the probe and the skin.
  • the white pixels correspond to dry skin and/or to distancing of the probe from the skin (wrinkle, groove).
  • the state of moisturization of the skin may be determined, as may its texture and its relief (wrinkles).
  • the sensor is placed on the area studied (size of the area: 3x2.5 cm 2 ).
  • the image acquisition software the surface of the skin can be visualized onscreen.
  • the antiperspirant efficacy index is measured at time 40 minutes (%) according to the following equation:
  • composition has good antiperspirant activity when the said index is greater than 60%.
  • compositions 1 and 2 comprising a tautening hydrophobic film- forming polymer of interpenetrating polymer network type have good antiperspirant efficacy.
  • Example 3 Antiperspirant gel in roll-on form
  • phase A1 The ingredients of phase A1 are mixed together with Rayneri stirring at 75°C, followed by addition of phase A2 with mixing for 45 minutes. The resulting mixture is cooled to 60°C, phase B is then added, this mixture is cooled to 40°C, phase C is added, this mixture is cooled to 25°C and phase E is added.
  • Glycerol (RG-995 from Kerry Oleochemical 0.7 - Industrial)
  • Triethyl citrate (Citroflex 2 from Vertellus) - 2
  • Nylon-66 polyamide-6,6 fibres, 9 dtex 0.3 mm from - 1
  • Example 6 an antiperspirant efficacy test was performed on a panel of 24 women aged from 18 to 60, using a Skinchip® machine under the same conditions defined previously.
  • compositions comprising a non-neutralized copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of N-tert-butylacrylamide or a non-neutralized copolymer of crotonic acid, tert- butyl benzoate and vinyl acetate have good antiperspirant efficacy.
  • Example 6 pressurized according to the fluid/propellant scheme in a 45/55 ratio.
  • Glycerol (RG-995 from Kerry Oleochemical Industrial) 0.7
  • AM Active Material It is found that the polymers Ethyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer (Gantrez ES 225 - ISP), VA/crotonates/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer (Resin 28-29-30 from Akzo Nobel) and Polyurethane-6 (Luviset Si-Pur from BASF) have no tautening effect or produce a very weak tautening effect and have no antiperspirant effect.
  • PVM/MA copolymer Gantrez ES 225 - ISP
  • VA/crotonates/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer Resin 28-29-30 from Akzo Nobel
  • Polyurethane-6 Liviset Si-Pur from BASF

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating perspiration and optionally the body odour associated with human perspiration and especially underarm odour, characterized in that it consists in applying to the surface of the skin a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer chosen from: (i) polymers of interpenetrating polymer network type; (ii) non-neutralized copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of N-tert- butylacrylamide; and (iii) non-neutralized copolymers of vinyl acetate, vinyl or (meth)allylic ester and of unsaturated carboxylic acid of formula (I) that will be defined in greater detail later. The invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer as defined above as an antiperspirant agent especially in a composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium.

Description

PROCESS FOR TREATING HUMAN PERSPIRATION USING A TAUTENING HYDROPHOBIC FILM-FORMING POLYMER; COMPOSITIONS
The invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration, characterized in that it consists in applying to the surface of the skin a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer chosen from:
(i) polymers of interpenetrating polymer network type;
(ii) non-neutralized copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of N-tert- butylacrylamide; and
(iii) the non-neutralized copolymers of formula (I) of vinyl acetate, of vinyl or (meth)allylic ester of an a- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid and of unsaturated carboxylic acid that will be defined in greater detail later. The invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer as defined above as an antiperspirant agent especially in a composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer and at least one additional antiperspirant agent.
In the cosmetics field, it is well known to use in topical application, as antiperspirants, astringent salts such as aluminium and/or zirconium salts, which have the effect of limiting or even preventing the flow of sweat. These products are generally available in the form of roll-ons, sticks, aerosols or sprays.
Certain people find that the application of products containing these metal salts causes skin irritation. Moreover, aluminium salts partly block perspiration via the formation of a partial plug in the sweat duct, giving the consumer the impression of unnatural control of perspiration. Furthermore, they also have a tendency to leave marks, in particular white marks, on clothing.
There is thus a need to find novel antiperspirant active agents that do not have these drawbacks, which can replace aluminium salts and aluminium/zirconium salts, which are efficient in terms of antiperspirant performance, and which are easy to formulate and well tolerated by users.
With this aim, it has already been proposed in patent application WO 93/24105 to use as antiperspirant active agents polymers that form an occlusive film on the skin. However, the occlusive nature of the polymers promotes bacterial proliferation, which may lead to an evolution of unpleasant odour.
It has already been proposed in patent application WO 95/27473 to use, as antiperspirant active agents, insoluble cationic polymers whose main chain is hydrocarbon-based and which comprise hydrophobic quaternary ammonium side groups. Patent application WO 01/54658 describes anhydrous compositions containing a cyanoacrylate monomer that reacts with sweat to form in situ by polymerization a film on the skin the blocks the sweat ducts. These polymers have the drawback of reacting directly on the skin in the presence of water, which causes an undesired temperature increase in the underarm area.
Patent US 6 387 356 B1 (Colgate) describes alcoholic compositions comprising a cellulose acetate butyrate ester (CAB 553-0.4,CAB 504-0.2) that is capable of forming a thin film on the skin characterized by a certain hardness and water- transporting properties which reduce or eliminate the sensation of moisture associated with perspiration.
DE 2947060 describes antiperspirant compositions containing a plasticizer-free aqueous dispersion of acrylic resin.
These polymeric antiperspirant systems are still not sufficiently efficient as regards the efficacy towards human perspiration. Patent applications FR-A-2 758 083, WO 98/29091 , EP 1 038 519 and FR 2 843 025 disclose film-forming tautening polymers used in the treatment of ageing of the skin and especially of wrinkles. Their use as agents for treating human perspiration was not known hitherto. Antiperspirant compositions based on pressure-sensitive adhesive (PSA) compounds in combination with polymers that do not have any bonding power at room temperature, for instance grafted silicone polymers such as those sold under the name VS80 by the company 3M, have already been proposed. These materials per se have the drawback of being tacky, which is cosmetically unfavourable for application to the armpits.
There is thus a need to find novel polymers that are effective against human perspiration without having the drawbacks mentioned previously. The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that certain tautening hydrophobic film- forming polymers have good antiperspirant efficacy without having the drawbacks mentioned previously. They can be formulated easily in products for reducing perspiration without it being necessary to use standard astringent salts. The invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration, characterized in that it consists in applying to the surface of the skin a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer chosen from:
(i) polymers of interpenetrating polymer network type;
(ii) non-neutralized copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of N-tert- butylacrylamide; and
(iii) the non-neutralized copolymers of formula (I) of vinyl acetate, of vinyl or (meth)allylic ester of a- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid and of unsaturated carboxylic acid that will be defined in greater detail later. The invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer as defined above as an antiperspirant agent especially in a composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium. DEFINITIONS
The term "cosmetically acceptable medium" means a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the scalp, the nails, mucous membranes, the eyes and the hair, or any other area of bodily skin. A cosmetically acceptable medium is preferentially a medium that has no unpleasant odour, colour or appearance, and that is entirely compatible with the route of administration under consideration.
The term "antiperspirant" means any substance which has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat and/or of reducing the sensation of moisture associated with human sweat, and/or of masking human sweat.
The term "tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer" means any polymer having the following three properties:
(1 ) capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous or discontinuous film that adheres to a support, especially to human keratin materials such as the skin, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the nails,
(2) for which the film formed is capable of absorbing an amount of water of less than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the dry polymer film (before immersion in water) when it is dipped into liquid water,
(3) for which the film formed has a tautening effect of greater than or equal to 15% at a polymer concentration of 7% in its solvent, according to the test described below.
Water content
The amount of water absorbed by the hydrophobic polymers according to the present invention may be measured under the following conditions:
To measure the amount of water absorbed, also known as the water uptake, 12 g of a solution or dispersion comprising 7% by weight of polymer in its solvent (water, ethanol, volatile oil) in which it is compatible are poured into an aluminium crucible 5.5 cm in diameter, to form a film. The inner surface of the aluminium crucible is covered with a Teflon support disc so as to limit the undesirable edge effects and to facilitate the shrinkage of the film. The system is left to evaporate for 24 hours with gentle ventilation, so as to enable optimum drying. A circular film measuring between 300 and 350 μηι in thickness is obtained, which is removed from the aluminium crucible. The film is then cut into two rectangles of 1x2 cm.
One of the rectangular films obtained is weighed when dry, which corresponds to the mass of the film before immersion in the water, or the mass of the dry film. The same film is then dipped in a 30 ml_ flask filled with water, for a duration of 60 minutes. After each immersion in water, the excess surface water is removed by very gently pressing the film onto blotting paper and the film is weighed, which corresponds to the mass of the film after immersion in water. The percentage of water absorbed or the water uptake of the polymer after 60 minutes is calculated according to the following equation:
Figure imgf000005_0001
' 1 1 Dry film
The operation is repeated three times for each of the polymers tested. The average of the three percentages of absorption is calculated, to deduce therefrom the percentage of water absorbed by the polymer.
Tautening effect
The tautening effect may be characterized by an in vitro shrinkage test. A homogeneous mixture of the tautening polymer in its solvent or dispersant at a concentration of 7% by weight is prepared. 30 μΙ of the homogeneous mixture are placed on a rectangular specimen (10 x 40 mm, thus having an initial width L0 of 10 mm) of elastomer with a modulus of 20 MPa and a thickness of 100 pm. After drying for 3 hours at 22 ± 3°C and 40 ± 10% relative humidity RH, the elastomer specimen has a shrunken width, noted L3h, due to the tension exerted by the applied tautening polymer.
The tautening effect (TE) of the said polymer is then quantified in the following manner:
TE' = (Lo - L-3h / Lo)x100 in %
with l_o = initial width 10 mm
and l_3h = width after 3 hours of drying
TAUTENING HYDROPHOBIC FILM-FORMING POLYMERS
The tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymers in accordance with the present invention are preferably synthetic polymers.
The term "synthetic polymer" means any polymer obtained chemically or via production in an organism of the elements necessary for this production.
The tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymers according to the invention are chosen from:
(i) polymers of interpenetrating polymer network type;
(ii) non-neutralized copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of N-tert- butylacrylamide; and (iii) non-neutralized copolymers of vinyl acetate, vinyl or (meth)allylic ester and of unsaturated carboxylic acid of formula (I) that will be defined in greater detail later. a) Interpenetrating polymer network
According to a first variant, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one film-forming tautening synthetic polymer of interpenetrating polymer network type.
For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "interpenetrating polymer network" means a blend of two interlaced polymers, obtained by simultaneous polymerization and/or crosslinking of two types of monomer, the blend obtained having a single glass transition temperature range.
An IPN that is particularly preferred is in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles with a number-average size ranging from 50 nm to 100 nm.
The IPN preferably has a glass transition temperature (Tg) ranging from about -50°C to +130°C and preferably from -45°C to +130°C.
The Tg is especially measured by differential scanning colorimetry (or DSC) using the DSC 7 machine from the company Perkin-Elmer, the polymer sample being preconditioned in a climatic chamber for 48 hours at 25°C and 50% relative humidity, in an aluminium crucible.
The measurement is taken under a nitrogen flush, with a first heating ranging from -45°C to +140°C at a rate of 10°C/minute and a second heating ranging from - 45°C to +230°C.
IPNs are described in the publication Solvent-free urethane-acrylic hybrid polymers for coating; E. Galgoci et al., JCT Coatings Tech, 2(13), 28-36 (February 2005), and also in patents US 4 644 030 and US 5 173 526. Advantageously, the polyurethane/acrylic interpenetrating polymer network may be prepared according to the process described in patent US 5 173 526.
This process comprises the following steps: (a) forming a water-dispersible isocyanate-term inated polyurethane prepolymer comprising carboxylate groups;
(b) adding to the prepolymer a mixture of vinyl monomer containing an ethylenically unsaturated monomer;
(c) adding a tertiary amine to the prepolymer/vinyl monomer mixture;
(d) dispersing the prepolymer/vinyl monomer mixture in water;
(e) adding a radical initiator (soluble in oil) and a chain extender to the aqueous dispersion; and
(f) polymerizing the vinyl monomers and completing the chain extension of the prepolymer by heating the aqueous dispersion. The isocyanate-terminated polyurethane prepolymer may be obtained by reaction of organic monomer containing at least two active hydrogen atoms per molecule, especially a diol and preferably a polyester polyol, with an excess of diisocyanate monomer.
Preferably, the polyurethane prepolymer comprises unreacted carboxylic acid groups that are neutralized in tertiary amine salt form after the formation of the prepolymer and addition of the vinyl monomers, but before the formation of the aqueous dispersion.
The polyisocyanates used in the manufacture of the prepolymer may be aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic. Examples of polyisocyanates that may be mentioned include ethylene diisocyanate hexamethylene 1 ,6-diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, cyclohexane 1 ,4-diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'- diisocyanate, phenylene 1 ,4-diisocyanate, toluene 2,4-diisocyanate, toluene 2,6- diisocyanate, diphenylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, diphenylmethane 2,4'- diisocyanate and naphthylene 1 ,5-diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof.
The polymeric polyols with a molecular weight ranging from 500 to 6000 and preferably ranging from 700 to 3000, which may be used for the preparation of the prepolymer, may be chosen from diols and triols, or mixtures thereof. The polyols may be chosen especially from polyesters, polyester amides, polyethers, polythioethers, polycarbonates and polyacetals.
The polyester polyols may be chosen from the hydroxyl oil-terminated reaction products of polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 1 ,4-butanediol, furandimethanol, cyclohexanedimethanol, glycerol, trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol, or mixtures thereof, with polycarboxylic acids, in particular dicarboxylic acids or the ester form thereof, such as succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid or the methyl ester thereof, phthalic anhydride or dimethyl terephthalate. Polyesters obtained by polymerization of lactones, for instance caprolactone, and of polyol may also be used. The polyesteramides may be obtained by using amino alcohols such as ethanolamine in the polyesterification mixture.
The polyether polyols that may be used include the products obtained by polymerization of cyclic oxide, for example ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, tetrahydrofuran, or by addition of these cyclic oxides to polyfunctional initiators such as water, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, glycerol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol or bisphenol A. The polyethers may also be chosen from polyoxypropylene diols and triols, poly(oxyethylene-oxypropylene) diols and triols obtained by simultaneous or sequential addition of propylene oxide and of ethylene oxide with suitable initiators, and polytetramethylene glycol ethers obtained by polymerization of tetrahydrofuran.
The polythioether polyols may be chosen from the products obtained by condensation of thiodiglycol, either alone or with other glycols, dicarboxylic acids, formaldehyde, amino alcohols or carboxylic amino acids. The polycarbonate polyols may be chosen from the reaction products of diols such as 1 ,3-propanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 1 ,6-hexanediol, diethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol with diaryl carbonates, for instance diphenyl carbonate, or with phosgene.
The polyacetal polyols may be chosen from the reaction products of glycols such as diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol or hexanediol with formaldehyde.
The compounds bearing a reactive isocyanate group containing acid groups, which may be used in the preparation of the water-dispersible anionic prepolymers, comprise diols and triols containing carboxylic acid groups, for example those of formula (1 ):
R-C(CH2OH)2-COOH (1 ) in which R is a hydrogen or a d-do alkyl group. The diol containing a carboxylic group is preferably 2,2-dimethylolpropionic acid. The diol or triol containing a carboxylic group may be incorporated into a polyester by reaction with a dicarboxylic acid before being introduced into the prepolymer. Compounds bearing an acid group are, for example, aminocarboxylic acids, for example lysine, cystine or 3,5-diaminobenzoic acid.
The water-dispersible anionic isocyanate-term inated polyurethane prepolymer may be prepared in a conventional manner by reacting a stoichiometric excess of an organic polyisocyanate with a polymeric polyol and any other necessary compound that reacts with an isocyanate under anhydrous conditions at a temperature of between 30 and 130°C until the reaction between the isocyanate groups and a hydroxyl groups is complete. The polyisocyanate and the compounds containing an active hydrogen are advantageously used such that the ratio of the number of isocyanate groups to the number of hydroxyl groups ranges from 1 .1/1 to 6/1 and preferably from 1.5/1 to 3/1 . It is possible to use a well-known tin catalyst to assist the formation of the prepolymer.
A mixture of water-dispersible polyurethane prepolymer containing carboxylic groups and the vinyl monomer is obtained by simple addition of the vinyl monomer composition to the prepolymer. The vinyl monomer composition must contain at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer.
The vinyl monomers that may be added to the prepolymer may be ethylenically unsaturated hydrocarbon-based monomers, ethylenically unsaturated esters, ethylenically unsaturated ethers, in particular (meth)acrylic acid esters, vinyl alcohol esters, or styrene.
Mention may be made especially of butadiene, isoprene, styrene, alkyl (meth)acrylates containing a C-1 -C6 alkyl group, alkyl maleates containing a C1 -C6 alkyl group, vinyl acetate, vinyl butyrate, acrylonitrile, methyl vinyl ether, propyl vinyl ether, butyl vinyl ether, vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride. The polyethylenically unsaturated monomers may be chosen from butadiene, isoprene, allyl methacrylate, diesters of acrylic acid and of C2-C6 diols such as butylene diacrylate and hexylene diacrylate, divinylbenzene, divinyl ether, divinyl sulfide and trimethylolpropane triacrylate. Advantageously, the vinyl monomer is methyl methacrylate.
Before dispersing the prepolymer/vinyl monomer mixture in water, a tertiary amine is added to the mixture in an amount sufficient to make the prepolymer water- dispersible, i.e. in an amount sufficient to neutralize the carboxylic groups. For example, the amine may be added in an amount ranging from 65% to 100% of amine equivalent per equivalent of carboxylic function.
The tertiary amines that may be used are relatively volatile, such that they are evaporated from the film after the film formation.
Examples that may be mentioned include amines of formula R-N(Ri)(R2) in which R, Ri and R2 independently represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group. Examples that may be mentioned include triethylamine, dimethylethanolamine, methyldiethanolamine and methyldiethylamine.
It is important for the tertiary amine to be added to the mixture of prepolymer/monomers before this mixture is dispersed in water, in order to ensure compatibility of the organic and aqueous phases in the dispersion obtained. The prepolymer/vinyl monomer mixture may be dispersed in water using the known techniques. Preferably, the mixture is added to water with stirring, or water may be poured into the mixture.
The chain extender containing the active hydrogen that reacts with the free polymer may be a polyol, an amino alcohol, aqueous ammonia, a primary or secondary amine and, more particularly, a diamine.
Examples that may be mentioned include ethylenediamine, diethylenetriamine, triethylenetetramine, propylenediamine, butylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, cyclohexylenediamine, piperazine, 2-methylpiperazine, phenylenediamine, toluenediamine, tris(2-aminoethyl)amine, 4,4'-methylenebis(2-chloroaniline), 3,3'- dichloro-4,4'-diphenyldiamine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylmethane and isophoronediamine. The free-radical initiator may be an initiator of azo type such as 2,2'-azobis(2,4- dimethylpentanenitrile) and 2,2' azobis(2-methylpropanenitrile) [or AIBN].
The radical polymerization of the mixture of vinyl monomers and the prepolymer chain extender is advantageously performed at high temperature, for example between 50°C and 90°C and preferably between 60°C and 80°C.
The amount of chain extender used is advantageously equivalent to the free isocyanate groups in the prepolymer, the ratio of the number of active hydrogens in the chain extender to the number of isocyanate groups in the prepolymer preferably ranging from 0.7 to 1 .3. The polymerization of the vinyl monomers may be performed according to two methods. According to a first method, the monomers are added and may swell the polyurethane prepolymer before the addition of the tertiary amine. The monomers are then polymerized using the free-radical initiator.
The proportion of the vinyl monomers may range from 25% to 75% by weight and preferably from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of solids in the aqueous dispersion. According to a second polymerization method, part of the vinyl monomers is added to the prepolymer, the mixture is then neutralized with the tertiary amine and the prepolymer/vinyl monomer mixture is dispersed in water, followed by polymerization, during which the rest of the monomers is added. Alternatively, the second portion of monomers may be added to the prepolymer/vinyl monomer dispersion after addition of the amine, and the mixture stirred before the start of the polymerization.
The polymer dispersion may contain from 20% to 60% by weight of solids. According to one preferred mode of the invention, the polyurethane present in the IPN is a copolymer of polyester polyol/diol containing a carboxylic acid group/diisocyanate/diamine, such as those described previously, for example; the acrylic polymer present in the IPN is a polymethyl methacrylate. Use is preferably made of the polyurethane/acrylic polymer IPN sold by the company Air Products under the trade name Hybridur® 875 Polymer Dispersion (INCI name: Polyurethane-2 (and) Polymethyl Methacrylate), or alternatively under the trade names Hybridur® 870 and Hybridur® 880. b) non-neutralized copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of N-tert- butylacrylamide
The term "non-neutralized copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of N-tert- butylacrylamide" means any copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of N-tert- butylacrylamide in which the (meth)acrylic acid units are free and are not neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
Among the copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of N-tert-butylacrylamide, use will preferably be made of non-neutralized copolymers of acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N- tert-butylacrylamide (in which the acrylic acid is in free form) such as the products Ultrahold Strong and Ultrahold® 8 (INCI name: Acrylates/t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer) from the company BASF.
(c) Non-neutralized copolymers of vinyl acetate, vinyl or (meth)allylic ester and unsaturated carboxylic acid of formula (I)
The term "non-neutralized copolymer of vinyl acetate, vinyl or (meth)allylic ester of a- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid and unsaturated carboxylic acid" means any copolymer of vinyl acetate, of a vinyl or (meth)allylic ester of a- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid and of unsaturated carboxylic acid whose carboxylic acid functions are free and are not neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
The non-neutralized copolymers of vinyl acetate, of vinyl or (meth)allylic ester of an a- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid and of unsaturated carboxylic acid are those described in patent FR 2 439 798. They correspond to the general formula (I) below:
Figure imgf000011_0001
in which:
m, n, s and t are equal to 1 or 2;
R, R' and R" represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
Z is a divalent group of formula
-CH -r _CH -0-CH - or -CH2-0-(CH2)2-
Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C2-C21 alkyl radical,
A/ when s = 1 , Cyc is a saturated or unsaturated monocyclic or polycyclic radical in particular
(i) a radical of formula
Figure imgf000011_0002
(i) a radical of formula
Figure imgf000011_0003
in which R2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical and p is equal to 1 or 2; (ii) a radical of formula:
Figure imgf000012_0001
(iii)a radical of formula:
Figure imgf000012_0002
in which R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl, ethoxy, butoxy or dodecyloxy radical and R4 denotes a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl or Ci-C4 alkoxy radical; or
B/ when s = 2, Cyc is a radical of formula:
Figure imgf000012_0003
in which R'3 and R'4 have, respectively, the same meanings as R3 and R4; v represents from 10% to 91 % by weight and preferably from 36% to 84% by weight
w represents from 3% to 20% by weight and preferably from 6% to 12% by weight x represents from 4% to 60% by weight and preferably from 6% to 40% by weight y represents from 0 to 40% by weight
the sum v + w + x + y being equal to 100%.
The units of formula (lb) are obtained by polymerization of an unsaturated carboxylic acid of formula (II):
R— CH-CH— (Ζ)^ΟΟΟΗ (II) in which R, Z and n have the same meanings indicated in formula (I).
Among the unsaturated carboxylic acids, mention may be made in particular of: crotonic acid, allyloxyacetic acid, allyloxypropionic acid and vinylacetic acid. Crotonic acid will be used more particularly. The units of formula (lc) are obtained by polymerization of a vinyl or (meth)allylic ester of an a- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid of formula (III):
Figure imgf000013_0001
in which Cyc, m, n and R' have the same meanings indicated in formula (I).
Among these esters, mention may be made in particular of vinyl or (meth)allylic esters of 1 -adamantanecarboxylic acid, cyclohexanecarboxylic acid, cyclopentanecarboxylic acid, benzoic acid, phenylacetic acid, tert-butyl-4-benzoic acid, 1 -methylcyclopentane-1 -carboxylic acid, 1 -methylcyclohexane-1 -carboxylic acid, [tricyclo-5.1 .2.0 2,6]-decane-3-carboxylic acid and [tricyclo-5.1 .2.0 2,6]-decane- 4-carboxylic acid sold by the company Hoechst under the name TCD Carboxylic Acid S. Vinyl tert-butyl-4-benzoate will be used more particularly. As shown by the general formula (I), the copolymers may also contain units of formula (Id) that are obtained by polymerization of a vinyl or (meth)allylic ester of a carboxylic acid of formula (IV):
R^— C— 0— (CH¾| — C = CH2 (IV)
0
in which R-i , t and R" have the same meanings indicated in formula (I).
Among these esters, mention may be made in particular of vinyl or (meth)allylic esters of propionic acid, butyric acid, pivalic acid, hexanoic acid, octanoic acid, decanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, behenic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, 2,2-dimethylpentanoic acid, 2,2- dimethylhexanoic acid, 2,2-dimethyldecanoic acid, 2,2,4,4-tetramethylvaleric acid acid, 2-isopropyl-2,3-dimethylbutyric acid, 2-methyl-2-ethylheptanoic acid, 2- methyl-2-propylhexanoic acid, 2-methyl-2-isopropylhexanoic acid, 3,5,5- trimethylhexanoic acid and isomers thereof, and mixtures thereof, in particular mixtures of C10 alkyl fatty acids substituted in the a position, sold by the company Shell under the name Vesatic acid, and the mixtures sold by Ugine-Kuhlmann under the names Cs, C9 and C10 Cekanoic acids (Cs, C9 and C-io alkyl fatty acids substituted in the β and/or γ position). In general, the copolymers of formula (I) have a number-average molecular weight ranging from 5000 to 60 000 and more particularly from 10 000 to 45 000. These weights are determined on a number basis by osmometry. Use will preferentially be made of a terpolymer of vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl tert-butyl-4-benzoate and in particular the copolymer of vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl tert-butyl-4-benzoate (65%/10%/25% by weight) (INCI name: Vinyl acetate/vinyl butyl benzoate/crotonates copolymer) in non-neutralized form, such as the commercial product Mexomer PW manufactured by the company Chimex.
The hydrophobic film-forming tautening polymers in accordance with the invention are preferably present in concentrations ranging from 1 % to 50% by weight and preferentially from 3% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
GALENICAL FORMS
The composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gel, or in the form of aqueous, aqueous- alcoholic or alcoholic solutions. The invention also relates to compositions conditioned in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump-dispenser bottle; conditioned in a device equipped with a perforated wall, especially a grille; conditioned in a device equipped with a ball applicator ("roll-on"). In this regard, they contain the ingredients generally used in products of this type, which are well known to those skilled in the art.
According to one particular form of the invention, the compositions according to the invention may be anhydrous.
The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% water, and especially free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.
AQUEOUS PHASE
The aqueous phase of the aqueous compositions contains water and generally other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents. The water-soluble or water- miscible solvents comprise monoalcohols with a short chain, for example of Ci-C4, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, for instance ethylene glycol, 1 ,2- propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether and sorbitol. Propylene glycol and glycerol, propane-1 ,3-diol, will be used more particularly. OPTIONAL ADDITIONAL ANTIPERSPIRANT AGENTS The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additional antiperspirant agents, in particular aluminium and/or zirconium salts or complexes. The antiperspirant salts or complexes are generally chosen from aluminium and/or zirconium salts or complexes. They are preferably chosen from aluminium halohydrates; aluminium zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid, such as those described in patent US-3 792 068.
Among the aluminium salts, mention may be made in particular of aluminium chlorohydrate in activated or unactivated form, aluminium chlorohydrex, the aluminium chlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium chlorohydrex- propylene glycol complex, aluminium dichlorohydrate, the aluminium dicnlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium dichlorohydrex- propylene glycol complex, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminium sesquichlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium sesquichlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminium sulfate buffered with sodium aluminium lactate. An aluminium chlorohydrate in activated or inactivated form will be used more particularly.
Among the aluminium-zirconium salts, mention may be made in particular of aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate and aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate.
The complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known as ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). Among these products, mention may be made of the aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrex-glycine complexes, the aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrex- glycine complexes, the aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex-glycine complexes and the aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrex-glycine complexes.
The antiperspirant salts or complexes may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion from about 0 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is also possible to add moisture absorbers, for instance perlites and preferably expanded perlites. The perlites that may be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have as the composition:
70.0-75.0% by weight of silica Si02
12.0-15.0% by weight of oxide of aluminium oxide AI2O3
3.0-5.0% of sodium oxide Na20
3.0-5.0% of potassium oxide K20
0.5-2% of iron oxide Fe203
0.2-0.7% of magnesium oxide MgO
0.5-1 .5% of calcium oxide CaO
0.05-0.15% of titanium oxide Ti02 The perlite is ground, dried and then calibrated in a first step. The product obtained, known as perlite ore, is grey-coloured and has a size of about 100 m.
The perlite ore is then expanded (1000°C/2 seconds) to give more or less white particles. When the temperature reaches 850-900°C, the water trapped in the structure of the material evaporates and brings about the expansion of the material relative to its original volume. The expanded perlite particles in accordance with the invention may be obtained via the expansion process described in patent US 5 002 698.
Preferably, the perlite particles used are ground: in this case, they are known as Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP). They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 pm and preferably from 0.5 to 40 pm. Preferably, the perlite particles used have an untamped apparent density at 25°C ranging from 10 to 400 kg/m3 (standard DIN 53468) and preferably from 10 to 300 kg/m3.
Preferably, the expanded perlite particles according to the invention have a water- absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 200% to 1500% and preferably from 250% to 800%.
The wet point corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 1 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. This method is derived directly from that of the oil uptake applied to solvents. The measurements are taken in the same manner by means of the wet point and the flow point, which have, respectively, the following definition: wet point: mass expressed in grams per 100 g of product corresponding to the production of a homogeneous paste during the addition of a solvent to a powder; flow point: mass expressed in grams per 100 g of product at and above which the amount of solvent is greater than the capacity of the powder to retain it. This is reflected by the production of a more or less homogeneous mixture that flows on a glass plate.
The wet point and the flow point are measured according to the following protocol: Protocol for measuring the water absorption
1 ) Materials used
Glass plate (25 x 25 mm)
Spatula (wooden and partly metallic handle, 15 x 2.7 mm)
Silk-bristled brush
Balance
2) Procedure The glass plate is placed on the balance and 1 g of perlite particles is weighed out. The beaker containing the solvent and the sampling pipette is placed on the balance. The solvent is gradually added to the powder, the whole being regularly blended (every 3 to 4 drops) with the spatula.
The mass of solvent needed to obtain the wet point is noted. Further solvent is added and the mass required to reach the flow point is noted. The average of three tests is determined.
The expanded perlite particles sold under the trade names Optimat 1430 OR or Optimat 2550 by the company World Minerals will be used in particular.
OPTIONAL DEODORANT AGENTS
The compositions according to the invention may also optionally contain one or more deodorant agents.
The deodorant agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericides that act on underarm odour microorganisms, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (©Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1 -(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea (©Triclocarban) or 3,7, 1 1 - trimethyldodeca-2,5, 10-trienol (©Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1 ,3- diaminopropanetetraacetic acid), 1 ,2-decanediol (Symclariol from the company Symrise), small surfactants derived from glycerol, for instance caprylic/capric glycerides (Capmul MCM from Abitec), glyceryl caprylate or caprate (Dermosoft GMCY and Dermosoft GMC, respectively from Straetmans), Polyglyceryl-2 caprate (Dermosoft DGMC from Straetmans), and biguanide derivatives, for instance polyhexamethylene biguanide salts. - chlorhexidine and salts thereof; 4- phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (Symdeo MPP from Symrise).
Among the deodorant active agents in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of - zinc salts, for instance zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate; zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.
The deodorant agents may be odour absorbers such as zinc ricinoleate, sodium bicarbonate; metallic or non-metallic zeolites, cyclodextrins or alum.
It may also be a chelating agent such as Dissolvine GL-47-S from Akzo Nobel, EDTA; DPTA.
It may also be a polyol such as glycerol or propane-1 ,3-diol (Zemea Propane diol sold by Dupont Tate and Lyle Bioproducts). Alternatively, it may be an enzyme inhibitor such as triethyl citrate.
In the event of incompatibility or to stabilize them, some of the agents mentioned above may be incorporated into spherules, especially ionic or nonionic vesicles and/or nanoparticles (capsules and/or spheres). The deodorant agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 % to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. OPTIONAL ORGANIC POWDER
According to one particular form of the invention, the compositions according to the invention will also contain an organic powder. In the present patent application, the term "organic powder" means any solid that is insoluble in the medium at room temperature (25°C).
As organic powders that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include polyamide particles and especially those sold under the name Orgasol by the company Atochem; nylon-6,6 fibres, especially the polyamide fibres sold by Etablissements P Bonte under the name Polyamide 0.9 Dtex 0.3 mm (INCI name: Nylon-6,6 or Polyamide 6,6) with a mean diameter of 6 pm, a weight of about 0.9 dtex and a length ranging from 0.3 mm to 1 .5 mm; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name Microsphere M-100 by the Company Matsumoto or under the name Covabead LH85 by the Company Wackherr; hollow polymethyl methacrylate microspheres (particle size: 6.5-10.5 pm) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0800 by Ganz Chemical; methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer microbeads (size: 6.5-10.5 pm) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0820 by Ganz Chemical or Microsponge 5640 by the company Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions; ethylene- acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name Flobeads by the company Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and especially microspheres formed from a terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate and sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast under the references 551 DE 12 (particle size of about 12 pm and mass per unit volume of 40 kg/m3), 551 DE 20 (particle size of about 30 m and mass per unit volume of 65 kg/m3), 551 DE 50 (particle size of about 40 pm), or the microspheres sold under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially of crosslinked or non-crosslinked corn, wheat or rice starch, such as the powders of starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride, sold under the name Dry-Flo by the company National Starch; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone, especially Tospearl 240; amino acid powders such as the lauroyllysine powder sold under the name Amihope LL-1 1 by the company Ajinomoto; particles of wax microdispersion, which preferably have mean sizes of less than 1 pm and especially ranging from 0.02 pm to 1 pm, and which are formed essentially from a wax or a mixture of waxes, such as the products sold under the name Aquacer by the company Byk Cera, and especially: Aquacer 520 (mixture of synthetic and natural waxes), Aquacer 514 or 513 (polyethylene wax), Aquacer 51 1 (polymeric wax), or such as the products sold under the name Jonwax 120 by the company Johnson Polymer (mixture of polyethylene wax and paraffin wax) and under the name Ceraflour 961 by the company Byk Cera (micronized modified polyethylene wax); and mixtures thereof.
ADDITIVES
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizers, vitamins, bactericides, preserving agents, polymers, fragrances, thickeners or suspension agents, propellants or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
THICKENERS AND SUSPENSION AGENTS
The thickeners may be chosen from carboxyvinyl polymers, such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and the Pemulens (acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for instance the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/ Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance poly(2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or Simulgel 800 sold by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyltaurate/polysorbate 80/sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance Simulgel NS and Sepinov EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose or cetylhydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and especially gums such as xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl guar gums; and mixtures thereof. Suspension agents may be used, in the present case in hydrophilic media (aqueous and/or ethanolic). They may be cellulose, xanthan, guar, starch, locust bean or agar derivatives.
The thickeners may also be cationic, for instance Polyquaternium-37 sold under the name Salcare SC95 (Polyquaternium-37 (and) Mineral Oil (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) or Salcare SC96 (Polyquaternium-37 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) or other crosslinked cationic polymers, for instance those of the CTFA name Ethyl Acrylate/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Cationic Copolymer In Emulsion. SUSPENSION AGENTS IN OILY MEDIA
In order to improve the homogeneity of the product, it is also possible to use one or more suspension agents preferably chosen from hydrophobic modified montmorillonite clays such as hydrophobic modified bentonites or hectorites. Examples that may be mentioned include Bentone Gel MIO sold by the company NL Industries, the product Stearalkonium Bentonite (CTFA name) (product of reaction of bentonite and quaternary ammonium stearalkonium chloride) such as the commercial product sold under the name Tixogel MP 250 by the company Sud Chemie Rheologicals, United Catalysts Inc. or the product Disteardimonium Hectorite (CTFA name) (product of reaction of hectorite and distearyldimonium chloride) sold under the name Bentone 38 or Bentone Gel by the company Elementis Specialities, or other clays, for instance Veegum Ultra sold by the company Polyplastic.
The suspension agents are preferably present in amounts ranging from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amounts of these various constituents that may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in compositions for treating perspiration.
AEROSOLS
The compositions according to the invention may also be pressurized and may be conditioned in an aerosol device formed by:
(A) a container comprising an antiperspirant composition as defined previously,
(B) at least one propellant and a means for dispensing the said aerosol composition. The propellants generally used in products of this type and that are well known to those skilled in the art are, for instance, dimethyl ether (DME); volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane and mixtures thereof, optionally with at least one chlorohydrocarbon and/or fluorohydrocarbon; among these derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds sold by the company DuPont de Nemours under the names Freon® and Dymel®, and in particular monofluorotrichloromethane, difluorodichloromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane and 1 , 1 -difluoroethane sold especially under the trade name Dymel 152 A by the company DuPont. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air may also be used as propellant. The compositions containing perlite particles as defined previously and the propellant(s) may be in the same compartment or in different compartments in the aerosol container. According to the invention, the concentration of propellant generally ranges from 5% to 95% by weight of pressurized composition, and more preferentially from 50% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the pressurized composition.
The dispensing means, which forms a part of the aerosol device, is generally formed by a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, which itself comprises a nozzle via which the aerosol composition is vaporized. The container containing the pressurized composition may be opaque or transparent. It may be made of glass, a polymer or a metal, optionally coated with a protective varnish coat.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the present invention. The amounts are given as mass percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
EXAMPLES
Example 1 : Antiperspirant spray
Ingredients Amounts
Polyurethane-2 (and) Polymethyl 17% SM (i.e. 7% AM)
methacrylate (Hybridur 875 - Air
Products and Chemicals)
Glycerol (RG-995 from Kerry 0.7
Oleochemical Industrial)
Denatured ethyl alcohol (96° Denatured 81 .8
Ethyl Alcohol from Arnest)
Demineralized water 0.45
Citric acid (Citric Acid Monohydrate from 0.05
Citurgia Biochemicals)
Efficacy index (%) 63
Tautening effect (%) 38
Example 2: Antiperspirant gel in roll-on form
Figure imgf000022_0001
Procedure:
The ingredients of phase A1 are mixed together with Rayneri stirring at 75°C, followed by addition of phase A2 with mixing for 45 minutes. The resulting mixture is cooled to 60°C, phase B is then added, this mixture is cooled to 40°C, phase C is added, this mixture is cooled to 25°C and phase E is added, followed by F.
For Examples 1 and 2, an antiperspirant efficacy test was performed on a panel of 24 women aged from 18 to 60, using a Skinchip® machine under the following conditions. The Skinchip® machine is a machine that measures impedance and which retranscribes it into levels of grey. It is formed from a matrix of sensors that measure the electrical permittivity. The electrical permittivity depends on the moisturization of the skin and on the skin/sensor distance. Each sensor of the matrix gives coded information that then constitutes a black and white image. The black pixels correspond to moisturized skin and/or to contact between the surface of the probe and the skin. The white pixels correspond to dry skin and/or to distancing of the probe from the skin (wrinkle, groove). After analysis of the ratio between black and white, the state of moisturization of the skin may be determined, as may its texture and its relief (wrinkles). For the acquisition, the sensor is placed on the area studied (size of the area: 3x2.5 cm2). By means of the image acquisition software, the surface of the skin can be visualized onscreen. Panel
24 women aged from 18 to 60
broad, flat back
normal to dry skin
moderate to heavy bodily perspiration
absence of dermatological pathologies
sebum content < 5pg/cm2, 2 hours after showering
absence of sweating (Skinchip® visualization) after a 30-minute conditioning period
delimitation of 24 mini areas 3x2.5 cm2 in size
16 product areas, including 8 areas of naked skin
Application:
- Amount applied: 33 mg ± 3 mg
- uniform distribution of the products by finger with massaging
- products left on the skin for 15 minutes
Sweating
- Stimulation by absorption of two glasses of water
- Sauna at 40°C, laying down
Efficacy measurement
An index of reduction of the area occupied by sweat (product versus naked skin) is calculated
Image acquisition kinetics by Skinchip in the sauna after 25 minutes of sweating The Skinchip® images are analysed with Sweatchip®.
Two parameters make it possible to determine the area occupied by sweat.
Area = number of average-sized spots X
The following definitions are used:
S = the area occupied by sweat on the zone treated with the composition So = the area occupied by sweat on the zone not treated with the composition
The antiperspirant efficacy index is measured at time 40 minutes (%) according to the following equation:
Figure imgf000023_0001
It is estimated that a composition has good antiperspirant activity when the said index is greater than 60%.
It is observed that compositions 1 and 2 comprising a tautening hydrophobic film- forming polymer of interpenetrating polymer network type have good antiperspirant efficacy. Example 3: Antiperspirant gel in roll-on form
Figure imgf000024_0001
Procedure:
The ingredients of phase A1 are mixed together with Rayneri stirring at 75°C, followed by addition of phase A2 with mixing for 45 minutes. The resulting mixture is cooled to 60°C, phase B is then added, this mixture is cooled to 40°C, phase C is added, this mixture is cooled to 25°C and phase E is added.
Examples 4 and 5: Antiperspirant gel in roll-on form
Ingredients Ex. 5 Ex. 6
Acrylates/t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer (Ultrahold 7 7
Strong from BASF)
Glycerol (RG-995 from Kerry Oleochemical 0.7 - Industrial)
Denatured ethyl alcohol (96° Denatured Ethyl 90.3 89 Alcohol from Arnest)
Triethyl citrate (Citroflex 2 from Vertellus) - 2
Hydroxypropylcellulose (Klucel MF Pharm from 1 .0 1
Ashland)
Nylon-66 (polyamide-6,6 fibres, 9 dtex 0.3 mm from - 1
Utexbel)
Silica microspheres (5 pm) 1 .0 - (Sunsphere H51 - AGC-SI Tech) Example 6: Antiperspirant spray
Figure imgf000025_0001
For Example 6, an antiperspirant efficacy test was performed on a panel of 24 women aged from 18 to 60, using a Skinchip® machine under the same conditions defined previously.
Results
Figure imgf000025_0002
These compositions comprising a non-neutralized copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of N-tert-butylacrylamide or a non-neutralized copolymer of crotonic acid, tert- butyl benzoate and vinyl acetate have good antiperspirant efficacy.
Example 7: Antiperspirant aerosol
This is Example 6 pressurized according to the fluid/propellant scheme in a 45/55 ratio.
Ingredients Ex. 7
Acrylates/t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer (Ultrahold 7
Strong from BASF)
Glycerol (RG-995 from Kerry Oleochemical Industrial) 0.7
Isobutane (Isobutano from Repsol) 55
Denatured ethyl alcohol (96° Denatured Absolute qs 100
Ethyl Alcohol from Belgalco) Counterexamples 8 to 10
Figure imgf000026_0001
*AM = Active Material It is found that the polymers Ethyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer (Gantrez ES 225 - ISP), VA/crotonates/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer (Resin 28-29-30 from Akzo Nobel) and Polyurethane-6 (Luviset Si-Pur from BASF) have no tautening effect or produce a very weak tautening effect and have no antiperspirant effect.

Claims

1. Cosmetic process for treating human perspiration, which consists in applying to the surface of the skin a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer chosen from:
(i) polymers of interpenetrating polymer network type;
(ii) non-neutralized copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of N-tert- butylacrylamide;
(iii) copolymers of vinyl acetate, of vinyl or (meth)allylic ester of an a- or β- cyclic carboxylic acid and of unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponding to the general formula (I) below
Figure imgf000027_0001
in which:
m, n, s and t are equal to 1 or 2;
R, R' and R" represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
Z is a divalent group of formula
_CH2-, _CH2-0-CH2- or _CH2-0-(CH2)2-
Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C2-C21 alkyl radical, N when s = 1 , Cyc is a saturated or unsaturated monocyclic or polycyclic radical in particular
(ii) a radical of formula
Figure imgf000027_0002
(ii) a radical of formula
Figure imgf000028_0001
in which R2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical and p is equal to 1 or 2; (iii) a radical of formula:
Figure imgf000028_0002
(iv) a radical of formula:
Figure imgf000028_0003
in which R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl, ethoxy, butoxy or dodecyloxy radical and R4 denotes a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl or Ci-C4 alkoxy radical; or
B/ when s = 2, Cyc is a radical of formula:
Figure imgf000028_0004
in which R'3 and R'4 have, respectively, the same meanings as R3 and R4;
v represents from 10% to 91 % by weight and preferably from 36% to 84% by weight
w represents from 3% to 20% by weight and preferably from 6% to 12% by weight x represents from 4% to 60% by weight and preferably from 6% to 40% by weight y represents from 0 to 40% by weight
the sum v + w + x + y being equal to 100%.
2. Process according to Claim 1 , in which the polymers of interpenetrating polymer network type are chosen from polymers of interpenetrating polymer network type of polyurethane and of acrylic polymer in the form of an aqueous particle dispersion.
3. Process according to Claim 2, in which the hydrophobic film-forming tautening polymer is the polymer Polyurethane-2 (and) polymethyl methacrylate.
4. Process according to Claim 1 , in which the non-neutralized copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of N-tert-butylacrylamide are chosen from non-neutralized acrylic acid/ethyl aery late/N-tert-butylacry lam ide terpolymers.
5. Process according to Claim 1 , in which the copolymers of vinyl acetate, of vinyl or (meth)allylic ester and of unsaturated carboxylic acid of formula (I) are chosen from vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl tert-butyl-4-benzoate terpolymers and in particular the copolymer of vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl tert-butyl-4-benzoate (65%/10%/25% by weight).
6. Process according to one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the composition is in the form of an aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gel, or an aqueous, aqueous- alcoholic or alcoholic solution.
7. Process according to one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the composition is conditioned in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump-dispenser bottle; conditioned in a device equipped with a perforated wall, especially a grille; conditioned in a device equipped with a ball applicator ("roll-on").
8. Process according to one of Claims 1 to 7, in which the composition contains at least a deodorant and/or at least an additional antiperspirant agent.
9. Cosmetic use of at least one tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer according to one of Claims 1 to 5, as an antiperspirant agent especially in a composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium.
10. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer according to one of Claims 1 to 5 and at least one additional antiperspirant agent.
11. Composition according to Claim 10, in which the antiperspirant agent is chosen from aluminium and/or zirconium salts or complexes, more particularly aluminium chlorohydrate in activated or unactivated form; moisture absorbers such as perlites and preferably expanded perlites.
12. Composition according to either of Claims 10 and 1 1 , in which it is conditioned in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump-dispenser bottle; conditioned in a device equipped with a perforated wall, especially a grille; conditioned in a device equipped with a ball applicator ("roll-on").
PCT/EP2012/054999 2011-03-31 2012-03-21 Process for treating human perspiration using a tautening hydrophobic film-forming polymer; compositions WO2012130690A2 (en)

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FR1152685 2011-03-31
FR1152685A FR2973242B1 (en) 2011-03-31 2011-03-31 PROCESS FOR TREATING HUMAN TRANSPIRATION USING A HYDROPHOBIC TENSE FILMOGENIC POLYMER; Compositions
FR1152683A FR2973240B1 (en) 2011-03-31 2011-03-31 USE AS ANTITRANSPIRANT OF A COPOLYMER OF (METH) ACRYLIC ACID AND N-TERTIOBUTYLACRYLAMIDE OR A COPOLYMER OF CROTONIC ACID AND VINYL ACETATE
FR1152683 2011-03-31
US201161471460P 2011-04-04 2011-04-04
US61/471,460 2011-04-04
US201161471953P 2011-04-05 2011-04-05
US61/471,953 2011-04-05

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