WO2010135827A1 - Exothermic hair color composition, kit and method of use thereof - Google Patents

Exothermic hair color composition, kit and method of use thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010135827A1
WO2010135827A1 PCT/CA2010/000795 CA2010000795W WO2010135827A1 WO 2010135827 A1 WO2010135827 A1 WO 2010135827A1 CA 2010000795 W CA2010000795 W CA 2010000795W WO 2010135827 A1 WO2010135827 A1 WO 2010135827A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
hair
coloring
agent
color
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PCT/CA2010/000795
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Moty Cohen
Cristina Dulce Almeida Da Silva
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6569048 Canada Inc.
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Publication of WO2010135827A1 publication Critical patent/WO2010135827A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/23Sulfur; Selenium; Tellurium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/411Aromatic amines, i.e. where the amino group is directly linked to the aromatic nucleus
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/24Thermal properties
    • A61K2800/242Exothermic; Self-heating; Heating sensation
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88Two- or multipart kits

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the field of hair care, and more particularly to the field of hair color change. More particularly, the invention is directed to a hair coloring composition, for permanent hair color change. The present invention is also directed to a method for changing hair color by using the composition and a kit containing it.
  • a conventional method of permanently modifying the color of hair fibers, such as hair and eyebrows is usually comprised of two compositions.
  • the first composition contains a mixture of oxidative dye precursors and/or direct dyes, along with an alkalizing agent, usually ammonia.
  • the second composition contains an oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide. The two compositions are mixed together prior to use and immediately applied to hair fibers for a certain period of time and then rinsed.
  • Natural hair pigmentation is determined by melanin, a protein of high molecular weight and very low chemical reactivity.
  • melanin a protein of high molecular weight and very low chemical reactivity.
  • hair fibers In order to efficiently alter melanin pigment, hair fibers must be treated under high oxidation and alkaline medium. Under this condition, hair may loose its natural fatty compounds resulting in loss of sheen, dryness and ultimately breakage.
  • the depth of a shade corresponds to the intensity of the color and can be obtained by varying the concentration of dyes intermediates and/or direct dyes, while the tone can be adjusted by the combination between primary intermediates and couplers.
  • Different shades are designated with a letter and a number. The letter describes the tone (N for natural or neutral, R for red, A for ash, G for gold), while the number refers to the depth of the shade, also called the level of the shade. Shade symbols and corresponding definitions are listed in the Table A herein below:
  • ammonia systems are able to lighten up to 5 levels whereas any other system, free of ammonia, is able to lighten only up to 3 levels.
  • the successful results obtained by ammonia hair color systems are due to powerful oxidative species formed upon reaction of hydrogen peroxide with ammonia (pehydroxy anions). These oxidative species under high pH efficiently lightens keratin fibers.
  • MEA monoethanolamine
  • MEA ethanolamine or monoethanolamine
  • MEA is normally part of the dyes composition and is able to maintain high pH once the second composition containing an acid hydrogen peroxide solution is incorporated to the mixture.
  • the oxidative species formed by MEA and hydrogen peroxide are not sufficient to efficiently lighten keratin fibers, such as the 5 levels obtained by ammonia systems. This lack of strength cannot be solved by increasing MEA concentration because skin irritation and severe dermatitis may occur.
  • the Applicant's first successful attempt to reach its goals was the method disclosed in the International patent application no. WO2006/026851 (COHEN et al., 2006), for permanently modifying a color of hair using a self-generated heat composition.
  • the method comprises the use of three compositions A, B and C, wherein the composition A comprises at least a reducing agent and optionally a coloring compound, the composition B comprises at least an alkalizing compound and the composition C comprises at least an oxidizing compound.
  • the mixing of compositions A, B and C mentioned above generates an exothermic reaction producing heat.
  • the exothermic properties of the mixture allow for an improved coloring agent penetration into the keratinous fibers, such as hair, and thus improve aesthetic properties such as conditioning and final shine.
  • the drawbacks of this first invention consist in the use of three phases, including composition B with different level of basicity rendering the method for coloring hair more complicated.
  • the present invention as broadly disclosed concerns a biphasic composition
  • a biphasic composition comprising a first and a second phase having to be mixed and applied on hair for permanently changing hair color.
  • the first phase of the biphasic composition comprises an amount of about 1 wt.% and more of at least one reducing agent, at least one alkalizing agent; and optionally at least one coloring agent.
  • the second phase of the biphasic composition comprises an amount of less than about 15 wt.% of at least one oxidizing agent, the amount of the oxidizing agent being in weight percent compared to a weight of the second phase.
  • the invention as claimed is directed to the first phase of the above mentioned biphasic composition. More particularly, the invention concerns a hair coloring composition to be mixed with an oxidizing agent before applying on hair to change its color.
  • the composition comprises: at least one reducing agent presents in an amount equal or higher than about
  • the mixing of the hair color composition and the oxidizing agent launches an exothermic chemical reaction providing heat with a temperature that increases from room temperature (RT) to a temperature ranging from about (RT + 3) 0 C to about (RT +20) 0 C.
  • the amount of reducing agent mentioned above may be from about 1 wt.% to about 10 wt.%; or more preferably from 1 to 7 wt.% of the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of alkalizing agent mentioned above may be from about 1 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, or more preferably from about 4 wt.% to about 12 wt.% of the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one coloring agent when presents, has a concentration equal or lower than 8 wt.% of the composition.
  • composition may further comprise other cosmetically acceptable excipients or ingredients such as solvents, antioxidants, chelating agents, thickeners, emulsifiers, surfactants, rheology modifiers, preservatives, fragrances and any kind of cosmetically acceptable excipients or ingredients known in the art of cosmetic formulation.
  • the present invention further concerns a kit for the distribution, commercialization and utilization of the above-detailed composition of the invention.
  • the kit for coloring comprises: a first container comprising the hair coloring composition as defined above, and a second container comprising an oxidizing agent.
  • the kit of the invention may further include a manual of instructions indicating how to use the kit and change the color of hair.
  • the manual may also disclose the method of the present invention as defined hereinafter.
  • the invention also concerns a method for changing a color of hair of a person.
  • the method for changing a color of hair of a person comprises the steps of: a) determining a type of hair to be colored; b) selecting a hair color modification desired by the person; c) selecting a hair coloring composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 according to the type of hair determined in step a) and the color modification selected in step b); d) selecting a given amount of oxidizing agent to be mixed with the hair color composition selected in step c), said given amount of oxidizing agent being selected in function of the type of hair determined in step a); e) mixing the hair color composition selected in step c) with the oxidizing composition selected in step d) to obtain a mixture, said mixture providing heat generated by an exothermic chemical reaction which provides a temperature that increases from room temperature (RT) to a temperature ranging from about (RT
  • the present invention further concerns: the use of the composition as defined above; - the use of a method as defined above; or the use of a kit as defined above; for changing the color of hair.
  • the presence of a coloring agent within the hair coloring composition is optional.
  • compositions of the present invention when the composition does not contain a coloring agent, the use of the composition of the present invention, or the application of the method of the present invention will be a discoloration of hair, corresponding to a depigmentation.
  • composition contains a coloring agent
  • use of the composition of the present invention or the application of the method of the present invention will be a discoloration/coloration of the treated hair, corresponding to a depigmentation/pigmentation of hair.
  • suitable reducing, alkalizing and/or coloring agents in the composition or the concentration of suitable oxidizing agent may vary depending on, for example, the type of keratinous fibers to be treated, the intensity of the desired color, etc.
  • the resulting mixture generates a certain amount of heat during a certain amount of time.
  • the exothermic reaction is due to a chemical reaction between the reducing agent and the oxidizing agent.
  • the amount of self-generated heat and the heating time are controlled by the amount of the reducing agent and/or oxidizing agent used.
  • composition of the invention has the property, among others, to permanently change the color of hair with the same efficiency, if not more efficiently, compared to his own previous method using a three compositions; whereas the amount coloring agent has been advantageously reduced.
  • the reduction of the amount of active agents in the bi-phase composition of the invention allows an important reduction of the product cost compared to the three- phase composition of the Applicant described in International patent application no. WO2006/026851 , and more particularly, by reducing the effective amount of coloring compounds which are quite expensive.
  • the exothermic properties of the mixture of the invention also allows for an improved coloring agent penetration into hair, and thus improve aesthetic properties such as conditioning and final shine. It is worth mentioning that the exothermic properties of the present invention also allow a user to obtain a uniform and rich hair color comparatively to the prior art.
  • composition compared to the tri-phasic composition of the Applicant resides in the simplification of the method of use.
  • the user has only two compositions to mix before applying the mixture to hair, instead of three compositions.
  • % or wt.% means weight % unless otherwise indicated. When used herein % refers to weight % as compared to the total weight percent of the phase or composition that is being discussed. When the ratio of the first and second phase is discussed, this means the ratio of weight % of the first phase to weight % of the second phase.
  • room temperature (or RT hereinafter), it is meant the temperature where the compositions have been stored and said mixture prepared.
  • a room temperature of between about 15 and 25 0 C is generally accepted.
  • hair it is meant any sort of keratinous fibers on the head, on the face such as eyelashes, eyebrows, beard hairs, and on the rest of the body such as pubic hairs.
  • compositions, kits and methods of the present invention are suited to be used to modify the color of different types of hair.
  • type of hair it is meant
  • hair is meant hair that has been previously treated before to be treated with the method of the present invention. For example, hair has been previously permanently waved, straightened, colored or bleached.
  • shade it is meant the color imparted to the hair by a mixture of dyes intermediates and/or direct dyes.
  • the different shades obtained from a combination of dyes intermediates and/or direct dyes can be described in terms of the "depth of the shade” (intensity) and the “tone” (color).
  • the present invention relates to a composition which has to be mixed with an oxidizing agent before applying the mixture to hair.
  • composition comprises:
  • - at least one reducing agent with is present in an amount that is equal or higher than about 1 wt.% of the composition; - at least one alkalizing agent; and
  • the composition comprises from about 1 wt.% to about 10 wt.% of at least one reducing agent, preferably from about 1 wt.% to about 7 wt.% of the total weight of the composition.
  • the reducing agent may be a thio compound such as sodium metabisulfite, ammonium thioglycolate, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, cysteine, cystamine, glycerol monothioglycolate, thioglycerol, sodium hydrosulfide or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the reducing agent is sodium metabisulfite.
  • Sodium metabisulfite or sodium pyrosulfite (American spelling; English spelling is Sodium metabisulphite or sodium pyrosulphite) is an inorganic compound of chemical formula Na2S2 ⁇ s. The name is sometimes referred to as disodium (metabisulfite, etc).
  • the reducing agent presents in the composition when in contact with the oxidizing agent(s) such as hydrogen peroxide, will produce heat induced by an exothermic chemical reaction between these two agents.
  • the amount of reducing agent is adapted or varies according to the percentage and/ or nature of the coloring agent(s) present in the same first phase.
  • composition of the present invention also comprises at least one alkalizing agent.
  • the amount of alkalizing agent of the composition is ranging from about 1 ,0 % to about 20,0 wt.%, more preferably from about 4 wt.% to about 12 wt.%, of the composition.
  • the alkalizing agent may be an amino base such as 2-aminoethanol, also named ethanolamine or monoethanolamine (MEA), thethanolamine, ammonium sodium, potassium or calcium hydroxide, aminopropanol amine, monoisopropanolamine, aminoethylpropanol, guanidine carbonate, sodium silicate, sodium carbonate or mixtures thereof.
  • amino base such as 2-aminoethanol, also named ethanolamine or monoethanolamine (MEA), thethanolamine, ammonium sodium, potassium or calcium hydroxide, aminopropanol amine, monoisopropanolamine, aminoethylpropanol, guanidine carbonate, sodium silicate, sodium carbonate or mixtures thereof.
  • the composition is preferably free of ammonia or ammonium hydroxide.
  • Ammonia is the most common alkali agent used in the hair industry due to its ability to lighten melanin pigment, dye un-pigmented hair fibers (white hair) and shade durability. Ammonia is known to increase hair porosity and to be extremely irritant to the skin, eyes and respiratory system. Furthermore, ammonia volatile nature and pungent odor causes difficulty with manufacturing process and instability in shade results.
  • ammonia in the hair color composition of the present invention will not affect the exothermic reaction when the reducing agent and the oxidizing agent are mixed together. Therefore, the term “alkalizing agent” may encompass ammonium hydroxyde or ammonia.
  • composition has a pH that may depend on the amount of alkalizing compound used in the first phase.
  • the pH of the first phase may be is in the range of from about 6,0 to about 11 ,0.
  • the composition optionally comprises a coloring agent.
  • a coloring agent for example, the intensity of the desired color.
  • the amount of the coloring agent mentioned above is equal or lower than 8 wt. %.
  • Oxidative hair coloring agents are used in combination with the oxidizing agent to deliver permanent hair dye to the hair.
  • Permanent hair dye compounds as defined herein are compounds, which once applied to the hair, are substantially resistant to washout.
  • the coloring agents may be selected from the group of dyes intermediates, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
  • the oxidation dye intermediates, or dye intermediates, used in oxidative dyes may be aromatic diamines, naphthols, phenols, aminophenols and their derivatives. These dye intermediates can be classified as primary and secondary intermediates.
  • Primary intermediates are chemical compounds, which by themselves will form a dye upon oxidation.
  • the secondary intermediates also known as color modifiers or couplers, are used with other intermediates for specific color effects or to stabilize the color.
  • the dye intermediates of the composition, the method or the kit may comprise aromatic compounds such as aromatic diamines, naphthols, polyhydric phenols, aminophenols, derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof.
  • Aromatic compounds derivatives are for example N-substituted derivatives of the amines, ethers of the phenols, or the like.
  • Dye intermediates are generally colorless molecules prior to oxidation.
  • the oxidation dye color is generated when the primary intermediate is "activated” and subsequently joined with a secondary intermediate (coupling agent), which is also generally colorless, to form a colored, conjugated molecule.
  • oxidation hair dye precursors or intermediates include those monomeric materials which form on oxidation oligomers or polymers having extended conjugated systems of electrons in their molecular structure. Because of this new electronic structure, the resultant oligomers and polymers exhibit a shift in their electronic spectra to the visible range and appear colored.
  • oxidation dye precursors capable of forming colored polymers may include bi-functional molecules such as p-phenylenediamine. With two functional groups, these compounds are capable of oxidative polymerization to yield higher molecular weight colored materials having extended conjugated electron systems.
  • Color modifiers or couplers such as those detailed hereinafter, may be used in conjunction with the oxidation dye precursors herein and are thought to interpose themselves in the colored polymers during their formation and to cause shifts in the electronic absorption spectra thereof, thereby resulting in slight color changes.
  • a representative list of oxidation dye precursors suitable for use herein is found in "Bleaches, hair coloring and dye removers" by Florence E. Wall, in “Cosmetic Science and Technology", Wiley Interscience, Second Edition, Volume 2, Chapter 23; pages 308 to 310.
  • oxidizing aids of the present invention are suitable for use (in combination with a source of peroxide as detailed herein) with all manner of oxidation dye precursors and color modifiers and that the precursors detailed below are only by way of example and are not intended to limit the compositions and processes herein.
  • the typical aromatic diamines, polyhydric phenols, aminophenols, and derivatives thereof, described above as primary dye precursors can also have additional substituents on the aromatic ring, e.g. halogen, alkyl, alkyl substituted additional substituents on the amino nitrogen and on the phenolic oxygen, e.g. substituted and unsubstituted alkyl and aryl groups.
  • composition of the present invention may, in addition to the essential oxidative hair-coloring agents, optionally include non-oxidative and other dye materials.
  • non-oxidative and other dyes suitable for use in the hair coloring compositions and processes according to the present invention include semipermanent, temporary and other dyes.
  • Non-oxidative dyes as defined herein include the so-called “direct dyes", metallic dyes, metal chelate dyes, fiber reactive dyes and other synthetic and natural dyes as detailed in:
  • Specific hair dyes which may be included in the first phase comprise primary intermediate such as 3-methyl-p-aminophenol; 2,3-dimethyl-p-aminophenol; p- phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine ; 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine; N-phenyl-p- phenylenediamine; N-2-methoxyethyl-p-phenylene-diamine; N,N-bis-(hydroxyethyl)-p- phenylenediamine; 2-hydroxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine; 2-hydroxyethyl-p- phenylenediamine; 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine ; 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine ; 2- isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine; N-(2-hydroxypropyl)-p-phenylenediamine; 2-propyl-p- phenylene-diamine; 1
  • the coupler or secondary intermediate may be utilized to expand the color range by copolymerization with the primary intermediate. These materials can also accelerate color formation.
  • Specific hair dye intermediates that can be used as couplers in the present invention include but not limited to 4-amino-m-cresol, 2-amino-4-hydroxy-ethylaminoanisole, A- amino-2-hydroxy-toluene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, m-aminophenol, 2-chloro-p- phenylene-diamine, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2,4-diaminophenoxy-ethanol, 2- methylresorcinol, 1-naphthol, 3-nitro-p-hydroxyethyl-aminophenol, 4-nitro-o- phenylenediamine, 2-nitro-p-phenylene-diamine, phenyl-methylpyrazolone, m- phenylenediamine, resorcinol, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethyl-aminophenol or mixtures thereof.
  • Direct dyes are colored compounds that can be used to modify the color of a substrate by dispersion. Direct dyes are used along with the dyes intermediates to add vibrancy to the tone which is not otherwise available if the composition only contains oxidation dye intermediates.
  • the dye composition disclosed herein may also comprise at least one direct dye that may be chosen, for example, from nitrobenzene dyes, cationic direct dyes, azo direct dyes and methine direct dyes.
  • the direct dyes may also be chosen in a group of compounds containing Basic Blue #3, External D & C Violet #2, Basic Green #4, Basic Orange #1 , Basic Red #22, Red #2, Basic Red #46, Basic Violet #13, Basic Violet #1 , Basic Yellow #11 , Basic Yellow #28, Basic Brown #16, Basic Brown #17, Basic Blue #99, Blue #2, Red #13, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition may further contain a plurality of components or excipients well known in the art of formulation such as pH-modifiers, viscosity modifiers, thickeners, solvents (alcohol, aqua, etc), perfumes or fragrances, colorants (for coloring the phases not the hair), opacifiers, surfactants (ionic or non-ionic such as zwitterionic), preservatives, emulsifiers, stabilizers or the like.
  • components or excipients well known in the art of formulation such as pH-modifiers, viscosity modifiers, thickeners, solvents (alcohol, aqua, etc), perfumes or fragrances, colorants (for coloring the phases not the hair), opacifiers, surfactants (ionic or non-ionic such as zwitterionic), preservatives, emulsifiers, stabilizers or the like.
  • composition of the invention has to be mixed with an oxidizing agent also named oxidizer.
  • This oxidizing agent is generally part of an oxidizing composition, also named herein "second phase”.
  • the amount of the oxidizing agent in the oxidizing composition may be from about 1 wt.% to about 15 wt.% of the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
  • the oxidizer may be a peroxide derivative such as hydrogen or oxygen peroxide, a persulfate salts, bromate, sodium perborate, sodium carbonate peroxide or mixture thereof. More preferably, the oxidizing compound is hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2 ) presents in hydrogen peroxide compositions.
  • a peroxide derivative such as hydrogen or oxygen peroxide, a persulfate salts, bromate, sodium perborate, sodium carbonate peroxide or mixture thereof. More preferably, the oxidizing compound is hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2 ) presents in hydrogen peroxide compositions.
  • volume the unit for measuring the concentration of hydrogen peroxide.
  • the volume of a hydrogen peroxide solution is the number of litres of oxygen in its gaseous form released by the decomposition taking place in a litre of that particular hydrogen peroxide solution.
  • the different volumes of H 2 O 2 being part of the oxidizing composition are ranging from about 3 to 50 Vol. (corresponding approximately to a concentration ranging from about 1 wt.% to 15 wt.% of the oxidizing composition).
  • the oxidizing composition may further contain a plurality of components and excipients well known in the art of formulation such as those already disclosed herein above for the hair coloring composition.
  • a method for changing a color of hair of a person comprising the steps of: a) determining a type of hair to be colored; b) selecting a hair color modification desired by the person; c) selecting a hair coloring composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 according to the type of hair determined in step a) and the color modification selected in step b); d) selecting a given amount of oxidizing agent to be mixed with the hair color composition selected in step c), said given amount of oxidizing agent being selected in function of the type of hair determined in step a); e) mixing the hair color composition selected in step c) with the oxidizing composition selected in step d) to obtain a mixture, said mixture providing heat generated by an exothermic chemical reaction which provides a temperature that increases from room temperature (RT) to a temperature ranging from about (RT +3)°C to about (RT +2O) 0 C; f) immediately after the mixing, applying said mixture to hair for a suitable period of time for obtaining the color modification selected in step a
  • the oxidizing agent used in the method is hydrogen peroxide, oxygen peroxide, a persulfate salts, bromate, sodium perborate, sodium carbonate peroxide or mixture thereof.
  • the method of the invention may include other steps well known in the art for changing the color of keratinous fiber.
  • the temperature of the resulting mixture increases from room temperature (RT) until to reach a quite constant value or plateau for a variable period of time.
  • the increase of temperature and the duration of the constant value vary depending on the amount of active agents present in the first and second phase, such as oxidizing and reducing agents. As aforesaid, these amounts depend on the type, amount and original color of fibers to treat, an also depend on the final shade of the fibers.
  • the heat effect lasts throughout the coloring process; up to about 75 minutes.
  • the suitable period of time mentioned in step f) of the method may also vary according to the type, amount and original color of fibers to treat. It will also depend on the final shade of the fibers.
  • the present invention further covers a kit comprising at least two containers.
  • the first containers comprising the hair color composition of the invention.
  • the second container comprises the oxidizing agent.
  • the containers may be a tube, a bottle, a pot or any sort of container generally used in commercialization and distribution of cosmetic products.
  • the kit of the invention may further comprise any tools that may be helpful for the mixing of the two phases and the application of the resulting mixture to hair.
  • These tools may include a graduated tube for measuring the amount of each composition to mix, a mixing pot for mixing them, a brush for applying the mixture on hair, additional containers comprising shampoo and/or hair conditioner for rinsing and/or washing hair.
  • the kit of the invention may optionally further contain a manual of instructions indicating how to use and mix the hair coloring composition with the oxidizing agent, and tools if any.
  • the manual may also disclose the method of the present invention as disclosed above.
  • Each members of the kit may be packed into a box, a bag or any kind of known recipient used in the commercialization and distribution of cosmetic products.
  • Table 1 discloses some different compounds useful for the formulation of the hair coloring composition.
  • Table 2 discloses some different compounds useful for the formulation of an oxidizing composition that has to be mixed with a hair coloring composition of Table !
  • the coloring composition and the oxidizing compositions are mixed together with a ratio of about 1 :1 or 1 :2 (wt. %), depending on the shade selected. It has to be understood that the amounts of active ingredients in the composition is prepared to be mix with a certain concentration of oxidizing agent. The user may decide to use a different concentration of oxidizing composition, without changing the final concentration of the ingredients in the mixture. The ratio indicated above is then variable without falling outside the scope of the present invention.
  • the mixture is then applied on the hair, using an adequate, preferably non-metallic, tool such as a silicon brush and maintained for a period of time up to about 75 minutes.
  • an adequate, preferably non-metallic, tool such as a silicon brush
  • the mixture is removed from the hair by rinsing off the hair with water and shampoo.
  • Example 1 from virgin natural light brown hair (N5) to medium brown hair (N4)
  • the other components of the composition may be those disclosed in Table 1 above.
  • the two compositions are then mixed together in a ratio 1 :1 and applied to hair for a period of 30 minutes.
  • An increase of temperature of +5 0 C ⁇ 1 0 C is obtained from the beginning of processing time (room temperature at 20 0 C), to the end.
  • Example 2 From virgin natural light brown hair (N5) to a very pale natural light blonde (N10) Coloring composition:
  • the other components of the coloring composition may be those disclosed in Table 1 above.
  • Example 3 From a virgin natural light brown hair (N5) to a medium copper blonde (N7)
  • the other components of the coloring composition may be those disclosed in Table 1 above.
  • the two compositions are then mixed together in a ratio 1 :1 and applied to the hair for a period of 40 minutes.
  • An increase of temperature of +8 0 C ⁇ 1 0 C is obtained from the beginning of processing time (room temperature at about 20°C), to the end.
  • Example 4 From a very pale bleached hair golden to a very pale copper blonde (K10)
  • the other components of the coloring composition may be those disclosed in Table 1 above.
  • the two compositions are then mixed together in a ratio 1 :1 and applied to the hair for a period of 10 minutes.
  • An increase of temperature of +3 0 C ⁇ 1 0 C is obtained from the beginning of processing time (room temperature at about 2O 0 C), to the end.
  • Example 5 From a tinted golden medium blond to a red copper medium blonde (RK7)
  • the other components of the coloring composition may be those disclosed in Table 1 above.
  • the two compositions are then mixed together in a ratio 1 :1 and applied to the hair for a period of 20 minutes.
  • An increase of temperature of +5 0 C ⁇ 1 0 C is obtained from the beginning of processing time (room temperature at about 20 ° C), to the end.

Abstract

A hair coloring composition to be mixed with an oxidizing agent before applying on hair to change its color, the composition comprising at least one reducing agent presents with an amount higher than about 1 wt.%; at least one alkalizing agent and optionally, at least one coloring agent, wherein, the mixing of the composition and oxidizing agent launches an exothermic reaction providing heat with a temperature that increases from room temperature (RT) to a temperature ranging from about (RT + 3) oC to about (RT +20) oC. Also disclosed are a method and a kit for coloring hair using the hair coloring composition. The composition is a self-heating composition that allows a reduction or elimination of the use of ammonia and a reduction of the concentration of coloring compounds in the composition; and also elimination of the use of external heat appliance during the process of hair color modification.

Description

EXOTHERMIC HAIR COLOR COMPOSITION, KIT AND METHOD OF USE THEREOF
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention belongs to the field of hair care, and more particularly to the field of hair color change. More particularly, the invention is directed to a hair coloring composition, for permanent hair color change. The present invention is also directed to a method for changing hair color by using the composition and a kit containing it.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
A conventional method of permanently modifying the color of hair fibers, such as hair and eyebrows, is usually comprised of two compositions. The first composition contains a mixture of oxidative dye precursors and/or direct dyes, along with an alkalizing agent, usually ammonia. The second composition contains an oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide. The two compositions are mixed together prior to use and immediately applied to hair fibers for a certain period of time and then rinsed.
Natural hair pigmentation is determined by melanin, a protein of high molecular weight and very low chemical reactivity. In order to efficiently alter melanin pigment, hair fibers must be treated under high oxidation and alkaline medium. Under this condition, hair may loose its natural fatty compounds resulting in loss of sheen, dryness and ultimately breakage.
As it is well known, the depth of a shade corresponds to the intensity of the color and can be obtained by varying the concentration of dyes intermediates and/or direct dyes, while the tone can be adjusted by the combination between primary intermediates and couplers. Different shades are designated with a letter and a number. The letter describes the tone (N for natural or neutral, R for red, A for ash, G for gold), while the number refers to the depth of the shade, also called the level of the shade. Shade symbols and corresponding definitions are listed in the Table A herein below:
TABLE A:
Figure imgf000003_0001
Many attempts to replace ammonia have been made however this alternative has its limitations. Ammonia systems are able to lighten up to 5 levels whereas any other system, free of ammonia, is able to lighten only up to 3 levels. The successful results obtained by ammonia hair color systems are due to powerful oxidative species formed upon reaction of hydrogen peroxide with ammonia (pehydroxy anions). These oxidative species under high pH efficiently lightens keratin fibers.
The drawback of such system relies on the volatile nature of ammonia which causes unpleasant odor, eyes irritation, respiratory diseases and unpredictable results in regards to coloring of keratin fibers. Furthermore, manufacturing the ammonia system requires specific equipments and gases in order to control volatility.
The most common alkali agent used to replace ammonia is ethanolamine or monoethanolamine (MEA). MEA is normally part of the dyes composition and is able to maintain high pH once the second composition containing an acid hydrogen peroxide solution is incorporated to the mixture. However, the oxidative species formed by MEA and hydrogen peroxide are not sufficient to efficiently lighten keratin fibers, such as the 5 levels obtained by ammonia systems. This lack of strength cannot be solved by increasing MEA concentration because skin irritation and severe dermatitis may occur.
Furthermore, plenty of hair color compositions that do not contain ammonia, require heat appliances, such as hair dryers or drying helmets, in order to achieve optimum results. It is known that temperatures above 60 0C can burn the scalp. Heat appliances are most likely to be designed with a safe cut-off switch to avoid higher temperature.
Unfortunately, the heat settings of such appliances take in consideration skin sensitivity and not hair itself. Exposure to extreme heat, under alkaline conditions, reduces the hair natural moisture content below the normal level causing dryness and breakage.
It is well known in the art that the use of heat sources increases the brightness of the hair. Free ammonia coloring systems of the art do not involve such exothermic properties and therefore, it is necessary for prior art methods to use heat generated by electrical appliances in order to obtain equivalent hair color modifications of the present invention.
The Applicant's first successful attempt to reach its goals was the method disclosed in the International patent application no. WO2006/026851 (COHEN et al., 2006), for permanently modifying a color of hair using a self-generated heat composition. The method comprises the use of three compositions A, B and C, wherein the composition A comprises at least a reducing agent and optionally a coloring compound, the composition B comprises at least an alkalizing compound and the composition C comprises at least an oxidizing compound. The mixing of compositions A, B and C mentioned above generates an exothermic reaction producing heat. The exothermic properties of the mixture allow for an improved coloring agent penetration into the keratinous fibers, such as hair, and thus improve aesthetic properties such as conditioning and final shine. The drawbacks of this first invention consist in the use of three phases, including composition B with different level of basicity rendering the method for coloring hair more complicated.
The Applicant has then developed a new coloring system with the objective of:
- reducing or eliminating the use of ammonia in hair color composition;
- reducing the concentration of coloring compounds in the composition due to their elevated costs; and
- eliminating the use of external heat appliance during the process of hair color modification.
The Applicant has then simplified its own three phase method in order to provide a new composition and method as detailed and claimed afterwards.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention as broadly disclosed concerns a biphasic composition comprising a first and a second phase having to be mixed and applied on hair for permanently changing hair color. The first phase of the biphasic composition comprises an amount of about 1 wt.% and more of at least one reducing agent, at least one alkalizing agent; and optionally at least one coloring agent. The second phase of the biphasic composition comprises an amount of less than about 15 wt.% of at least one oxidizing agent, the amount of the oxidizing agent being in weight percent compared to a weight of the second phase.
The invention as claimed is directed to the first phase of the above mentioned biphasic composition. More particularly, the invention concerns a hair coloring composition to be mixed with an oxidizing agent before applying on hair to change its color. The composition comprises: at least one reducing agent presents in an amount equal or higher than about
1 wt.% of the composition; at least one alkalizing agent; and optionally, at least one coloring agent; wherein, the mixing of the hair color composition and the oxidizing agent launches an exothermic chemical reaction providing heat with a temperature that increases from room temperature (RT) to a temperature ranging from about (RT + 3) 0C to about (RT +20) 0C.
Preferably, the amount of reducing agent mentioned above may be from about 1 wt.% to about 10 wt.%; or more preferably from 1 to 7 wt.% of the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the amount of alkalizing agent mentioned above may be from about 1 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, or more preferably from about 4 wt.% to about 12 wt.% of the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the at least one coloring agent, when presents, has a concentration equal or lower than 8 wt.% of the composition.
Of course, the composition may further comprise other cosmetically acceptable excipients or ingredients such as solvents, antioxidants, chelating agents, thickeners, emulsifiers, surfactants, rheology modifiers, preservatives, fragrances and any kind of cosmetically acceptable excipients or ingredients known in the art of cosmetic formulation. The present invention further concerns a kit for the distribution, commercialization and utilization of the above-detailed composition of the invention. The kit for coloring comprises: a first container comprising the hair coloring composition as defined above, and a second container comprising an oxidizing agent.
The kit of the invention may further include a manual of instructions indicating how to use the kit and change the color of hair. The manual may also disclose the method of the present invention as defined hereinafter.
Indeed, the invention also concerns a method for changing a color of hair of a person.
The method for changing a color of hair of a person comprises the steps of: a) determining a type of hair to be colored; b) selecting a hair color modification desired by the person; c) selecting a hair coloring composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 according to the type of hair determined in step a) and the color modification selected in step b); d) selecting a given amount of oxidizing agent to be mixed with the hair color composition selected in step c), said given amount of oxidizing agent being selected in function of the type of hair determined in step a); e) mixing the hair color composition selected in step c) with the oxidizing composition selected in step d) to obtain a mixture, said mixture providing heat generated by an exothermic chemical reaction which provides a temperature that increases from room temperature (RT) to a temperature ranging from about (RT
+3)°C to about (RT +20)°C; f) immediately after the mixing, applying said mixture to hair for a suitable period of time for obtaining the color modification selected in step a); and g) removing said mixture from hair.
The present invention further concerns: the use of the composition as defined above; - the use of a method as defined above; or the use of a kit as defined above; for changing the color of hair.
As mentioned above, the presence of a coloring agent within the hair coloring composition is optional.
In that connection, it is to be understood by those skilled in the art that when the composition does not contain a coloring agent, the use of the composition of the present invention, or the application of the method of the present invention will be a discoloration of hair, corresponding to a depigmentation.
It is also to be understood by those skilled in the art that when the composition contains a coloring agent, the use of the composition of the present invention or the application of the method of the present invention will be a discoloration/coloration of the treated hair, corresponding to a depigmentation/pigmentation of hair.
It will be understood by those skilled in the art that the amounts or concentrations of suitable reducing, alkalizing and/or coloring agents in the composition or the concentration of suitable oxidizing agent, may vary depending on, for example, the type of keratinous fibers to be treated, the intensity of the desired color, etc.
Once the composition and the oxidizing agent are mixed together, prior to application on hair, the resulting mixture generates a certain amount of heat during a certain amount of time. The exothermic reaction is due to a chemical reaction between the reducing agent and the oxidizing agent. The amount of self-generated heat and the heating time are controlled by the amount of the reducing agent and/or oxidizing agent used.
The Applicant has found that the composition of the invention has the property, among others, to permanently change the color of hair with the same efficiency, if not more efficiently, compared to his own previous method using a three compositions; whereas the amount coloring agent has been advantageously reduced.
The reduction of the amount of active agents in the bi-phase composition of the invention allows an important reduction of the product cost compared to the three- phase composition of the Applicant described in International patent application no. WO2006/026851 , and more particularly, by reducing the effective amount of coloring compounds which are quite expensive.
It is to be understood that the exothermic properties of the mixture of the invention also allows for an improved coloring agent penetration into hair, and thus improve aesthetic properties such as conditioning and final shine. It is worth mentioning that the exothermic properties of the present invention also allow a user to obtain a uniform and rich hair color comparatively to the prior art.
Another advantage of the composition compared to the tri-phasic composition of the Applicant resides in the simplification of the method of use. The user has only two compositions to mix before applying the mixture to hair, instead of three compositions.
The objects, advantages and other features of the present invention will be better understood upon reading of the following non-restrictive description of preferred embodiments thereof, given for the purpose of exemplification only with reference to the accompanying examples. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
In describing the present invention, the following terminology will be used in accordance with definitions set out below.
As used herein % or wt.% means weight % unless otherwise indicated. When used herein % refers to weight % as compared to the total weight percent of the phase or composition that is being discussed. When the ratio of the first and second phase is discussed, this means the ratio of weight % of the first phase to weight % of the second phase.
By "about", it is meant that the value of weight %, time, pH or temperature can vary within a certain range depending on the margin of error of the method or device used to evaluate such weight %, time, pH or temperature. A margin of error of 10% is generally accepted.
By "room temperature" (or RT hereinafter), it is meant the temperature where the compositions have been stored and said mixture prepared. A room temperature of between about 15 and 25 0C is generally accepted.
By "hair", it is meant any sort of keratinous fibers on the head, on the face such as eyelashes, eyebrows, beard hairs, and on the rest of the body such as pubic hairs.
The compositions, kits and methods of the present invention are suited to be used to modify the color of different types of hair. By "types of hair" it is meant
- the hair texture which depends on the origin of the person (as Asian, Caucasian, Latino, or African hair)
- the age of the person (grey hair);
- the natural hair color; - the pre-treatment of hair (artificial color or waved hair). By "chemically treated hair" it is meant hair that has been previously treated before to be treated with the method of the present invention. For example, hair has been previously permanently waved, straightened, colored or bleached.
By "permanent" hair color change it is meant that the new hair color, after the use of the present biphasic composition, is permanent or substantially resistant to washout.
By "shade", it is meant the color imparted to the hair by a mixture of dyes intermediates and/or direct dyes. The different shades obtained from a combination of dyes intermediates and/or direct dyes can be described in terms of the "depth of the shade" (intensity) and the "tone" (color).
As aforesaid, the present invention relates to a composition which has to be mixed with an oxidizing agent before applying the mixture to hair.
The composition comprises:
- at least one reducing agent with is present in an amount that is equal or higher than about 1 wt.% of the composition; - at least one alkalizing agent; and
- optionally, at least one coloring agent.
In accordance with the present invention, the composition comprises from about 1 wt.% to about 10 wt.% of at least one reducing agent, preferably from about 1 wt.% to about 7 wt.% of the total weight of the composition.
The reducing agent may be a thio compound such as sodium metabisulfite, ammonium thioglycolate, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, cysteine, cystamine, glycerol monothioglycolate, thioglycerol, sodium hydrosulfide or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the reducing agent is sodium metabisulfite. Sodium metabisulfite or sodium pyrosulfite (American spelling; English spelling is Sodium metabisulphite or sodium pyrosulphite) is an inorganic compound of chemical formula Na2S2θs. The name is sometimes referred to as disodium (metabisulfite, etc).
It is further to be understood that the reducing agent presents in the composition when in contact with the oxidizing agent(s) such as hydrogen peroxide, will produce heat induced by an exothermic chemical reaction between these two agents.
In any case, the amount of reducing agent is adapted or varies according to the percentage and/ or nature of the coloring agent(s) present in the same first phase.
The composition of the present invention also comprises at least one alkalizing agent.
Preferably, the amount of alkalizing agent of the composition is ranging from about 1 ,0 % to about 20,0 wt.%, more preferably from about 4 wt.% to about 12 wt.%, of the composition.
The alkalizing agent may be an amino base such as 2-aminoethanol, also named ethanolamine or monoethanolamine (MEA), thethanolamine, ammonium sodium, potassium or calcium hydroxide, aminopropanol amine, monoisopropanolamine, aminoethylpropanol, guanidine carbonate, sodium silicate, sodium carbonate or mixtures thereof.
As aforesaid, the composition is preferably free of ammonia or ammonium hydroxide. Ammonia is the most common alkali agent used in the hair industry due to its ability to lighten melanin pigment, dye un-pigmented hair fibers (white hair) and shade durability. Ammonia is known to increase hair porosity and to be extremely irritant to the skin, eyes and respiratory system. Furthermore, ammonia volatile nature and pungent odor causes difficulty with manufacturing process and instability in shade results.
However, the use of ammonia in the hair color composition of the present invention will not affect the exothermic reaction when the reducing agent and the oxidizing agent are mixed together. Therefore, the term "alkalizing agent" may encompass ammonium hydroxyde or ammonia.
It is to be understood that the composition has a pH that may depend on the amount of alkalizing compound used in the first phase. The pH of the first phase may be is in the range of from about 6,0 to about 11 ,0.
In accordance with the present invention, the composition optionally comprises a coloring agent. The choice and concentrations of coloring agents vary depending on, for example, the intensity of the desired color.
Preferably, the amount of the coloring agent mentioned above is equal or lower than 8 wt. %.
Oxidative hair coloring agents are used in combination with the oxidizing agent to deliver permanent hair dye to the hair. Permanent hair dye compounds as defined herein are compounds, which once applied to the hair, are substantially resistant to washout.
The coloring agents may be selected from the group of dyes intermediates, direct dyes and mixtures thereof. The oxidation dye intermediates, or dye intermediates, used in oxidative dyes may be aromatic diamines, naphthols, phenols, aminophenols and their derivatives. These dye intermediates can be classified as primary and secondary intermediates. Primary intermediates are chemical compounds, which by themselves will form a dye upon oxidation. The secondary intermediates, also known as color modifiers or couplers, are used with other intermediates for specific color effects or to stabilize the color.
The dye intermediates of the composition, the method or the kit, may comprise aromatic compounds such as aromatic diamines, naphthols, polyhydric phenols, aminophenols, derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof. Aromatic compounds derivatives are for example N-substituted derivatives of the amines, ethers of the phenols, or the like.
Dye intermediates are generally colorless molecules prior to oxidation. The oxidation dye color is generated when the primary intermediate is "activated" and subsequently joined with a secondary intermediate (coupling agent), which is also generally colorless, to form a colored, conjugated molecule. In general terms, oxidation hair dye precursors or intermediates include those monomeric materials which form on oxidation oligomers or polymers having extended conjugated systems of electrons in their molecular structure. Because of this new electronic structure, the resultant oligomers and polymers exhibit a shift in their electronic spectra to the visible range and appear colored.
An example of oxidation dye precursors capable of forming colored polymers may include bi-functional molecules such as p-phenylenediamine. With two functional groups, these compounds are capable of oxidative polymerization to yield higher molecular weight colored materials having extended conjugated electron systems.
Color modifiers or couplers, such as those detailed hereinafter, may be used in conjunction with the oxidation dye precursors herein and are thought to interpose themselves in the colored polymers during their formation and to cause shifts in the electronic absorption spectra thereof, thereby resulting in slight color changes. A representative list of oxidation dye precursors suitable for use herein is found in "Bleaches, hair coloring and dye removers" by Florence E. Wall, in "Cosmetic Science and Technology", Wiley Interscience, Second Edition, Volume 2, Chapter 23; pages 308 to 310.
It is to be understood that the oxidizing aids of the present invention are suitable for use (in combination with a source of peroxide as detailed herein) with all manner of oxidation dye precursors and color modifiers and that the precursors detailed below are only by way of example and are not intended to limit the compositions and processes herein.
The typical aromatic diamines, polyhydric phenols, aminophenols, and derivatives thereof, described above as primary dye precursors can also have additional substituents on the aromatic ring, e.g. halogen, alkyl, alkyl substituted additional substituents on the amino nitrogen and on the phenolic oxygen, e.g. substituted and unsubstituted alkyl and aryl groups.
The composition of the present invention may, in addition to the essential oxidative hair-coloring agents, optionally include non-oxidative and other dye materials.
Optional non-oxidative and other dyes suitable for use in the hair coloring compositions and processes according to the present invention include semipermanent, temporary and other dyes. Non-oxidative dyes as defined herein include the so-called "direct dyes", metallic dyes, metal chelate dyes, fiber reactive dyes and other synthetic and natural dyes as detailed in:
- "Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair" by Clarence Robbins, Third Edition, Springer-Verlag, pages 250 to 259; - "Hair coloring products" by Gus S. Kass, in "The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics", published by Continental Press, Second Edition, Volume IV, chapter 45, pages 841-920;
- "Bleaches, hair coloring and dye removers" by Florence E. Wall, in "Cosmetic
Science and Technology", Wiley Interscience, Second Edition, Volume 2, Chapter 23; pages 279 to 343;
- "The Science of Hair Care" edited by C. Zviak, Chapter 7 (pages 235 to 261) and Chapter 8 (pages 263 to 273); and
- "Hair Dyes" by J. C. Johnson, Noyes Data Corporation (Park Ridge, New Jersey, U.S.A.) 1973, pages 3-91 and 113-139.
Specific hair dyes which may be included in the first phase comprise primary intermediate such as 3-methyl-p-aminophenol; 2,3-dimethyl-p-aminophenol; p- phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine ; 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine; N-phenyl-p- phenylenediamine; N-2-methoxyethyl-p-phenylene-diamine; N,N-bis-(hydroxyethyl)-p- phenylenediamine; 2-hydroxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine; 2-hydroxyethyl-p- phenylenediamine; 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine ; 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine ; 2- isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine; N-(2-hydroxypropyl)-p-phenylenediamine; 2-propyl-p- phenylene-diamine; 1 ,3-di-(p-N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminoanilino)-2-propanol; 2- methyl-4-dimethylaminoaniline; p-aminophenol; p-methylaminophenol; 2- hydroxymethyl-p-aminophenol; 2-methyl-p-aminophenol; 2-(2-hydroxyethyl- aminomethyl)-p-aminophenol; 2-methoxy-methylpaminophenol; and 5-amino-salicylic acid; catechol; pyrogallol; o-aminophenol; 2,4-diaminophenol ; 2,4,5- trihydroxytoluene; 1 ,2,4-trihydroxy-benzene; 2-ethylamino-p-cresol; 2,3- dihydroxynaphthalene; 5-methyl-o-aminophenol; 6-methyl-o-aminophenol; 2-amino-5- acetaminophenol; 2,5-diaminotoluene; 2-dimethylamino-5-aminopyridine; tetraaminopyrimidine; 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole ; 4,5-diamino-1-hydroxyethyl- pyrazole, 6-methoxy-8-aminoquinoline; 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine; 5-hydroxy- 1 ,4-benzodioxane; 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol; 4-hydroxyethylamino-1 ,2-methylene- dioxybenzene; 5-chloro-2,3-dihydroxypyridine; 2-hydroxyethylamino-6-methoxy-3- amino-pyridine; 3,4-methylenedioxyaniline; 7-hydroxy-indole; 5-hydroxyindole; 2- bromo-4,5-methylenedioxyphenol; 3-amino-2-methylamino-6methoxypyridine; 2- amino-3-hydroxypyridine; 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 5-hydroxy-indoline, 7- hydroxyindoline or combinations thereof.
The coupler or secondary intermediate may be utilized to expand the color range by copolymerization with the primary intermediate. These materials can also accelerate color formation.
Specific hair dye intermediates that can be used as couplers in the present invention include but not limited to 4-amino-m-cresol, 2-amino-4-hydroxy-ethylaminoanisole, A- amino-2-hydroxy-toluene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, m-aminophenol, 2-chloro-p- phenylene-diamine, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2,4-diaminophenoxy-ethanol, 2- methylresorcinol, 1-naphthol, 3-nitro-p-hydroxyethyl-aminophenol, 4-nitro-o- phenylenediamine, 2-nitro-p-phenylene-diamine, phenyl-methylpyrazolone, m- phenylenediamine, resorcinol, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethyl-aminophenol or mixtures thereof.
It should be understood that the descriptions of primary intermediates and couplers given above are meant to implicitly include the salt forms of those dye molecules that form stable salts. For example, the hydrochloride or sulfate salts in the case of amines, and the alkali metal salts in the case of phenols.
Direct dyes are colored compounds that can be used to modify the color of a substrate by dispersion. Direct dyes are used along with the dyes intermediates to add vibrancy to the tone which is not otherwise available if the composition only contains oxidation dye intermediates. The dye composition disclosed herein may also comprise at least one direct dye that may be chosen, for example, from nitrobenzene dyes, cationic direct dyes, azo direct dyes and methine direct dyes.
The direct dyes may also be chosen in a group of compounds containing Basic Blue #3, External D & C Violet #2, Basic Green #4, Basic Orange #1 , Basic Red #22, Red #2, Basic Red #46, Basic Violet #13, Basic Violet #1 , Basic Yellow #11 , Basic Yellow #28, Basic Brown #16, Basic Brown #17, Basic Blue #99, Blue #2, Red #13, and mixtures thereof.
The composition may further contain a plurality of components or excipients well known in the art of formulation such as pH-modifiers, viscosity modifiers, thickeners, solvents (alcohol, aqua, etc), perfumes or fragrances, colorants (for coloring the phases not the hair), opacifiers, surfactants (ionic or non-ionic such as zwitterionic), preservatives, emulsifiers, stabilizers or the like.
The composition of the invention has to be mixed with an oxidizing agent also named oxidizer. This oxidizing agent is generally part of an oxidizing composition, also named herein "second phase".
The amount of the oxidizing agent in the oxidizing composition may be from about 1 wt.% to about 15 wt.% of the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
The oxidizer may be a peroxide derivative such as hydrogen or oxygen peroxide, a persulfate salts, bromate, sodium perborate, sodium carbonate peroxide or mixture thereof. More preferably, the oxidizing compound is hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) presents in hydrogen peroxide compositions.
As it is well known by someone skilled in the art, the unit for measuring the concentration of hydrogen peroxide is the Volume (Vol.). The volume of a hydrogen peroxide solution is the number of litres of oxygen in its gaseous form released by the decomposition taking place in a litre of that particular hydrogen peroxide solution.
Preferably, the different volumes of H2O2 being part of the oxidizing composition are ranging from about 3 to 50 Vol. (corresponding approximately to a concentration ranging from about 1 wt.% to 15 wt.% of the oxidizing composition).
The oxidizing composition may further contain a plurality of components and excipients well known in the art of formulation such as those already disclosed herein above for the hair coloring composition.
A method for changing a color of hair of a person, said method comprising the steps of: a) determining a type of hair to be colored; b) selecting a hair color modification desired by the person; c) selecting a hair coloring composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 according to the type of hair determined in step a) and the color modification selected in step b); d) selecting a given amount of oxidizing agent to be mixed with the hair color composition selected in step c), said given amount of oxidizing agent being selected in function of the type of hair determined in step a); e) mixing the hair color composition selected in step c) with the oxidizing composition selected in step d) to obtain a mixture, said mixture providing heat generated by an exothermic chemical reaction which provides a temperature that increases from room temperature (RT) to a temperature ranging from about (RT +3)°C to about (RT +2O)0C; f) immediately after the mixing, applying said mixture to hair for a suitable period of time for obtaining the color modification selected in step a); and g) removing said mixture from hair. Preferably, the given amount of oxidizing agent in step d) of the method is ranging from about 1 wt.% to about 15 wt.% of an oxidizing composition comprising said oxidizing agent
Preferably, the oxidizing agent used in the method is hydrogen peroxide, oxygen peroxide, a persulfate salts, bromate, sodium perborate, sodium carbonate peroxide or mixture thereof.
The method of the invention may include other steps well known in the art for changing the color of keratinous fiber.
Once the composition is mixed with the oxidizing agent, the temperature of the resulting mixture increases from room temperature (RT) until to reach a quite constant value or plateau for a variable period of time. The increase of temperature and the duration of the constant value vary depending on the amount of active agents present in the first and second phase, such as oxidizing and reducing agents. As aforesaid, these amounts depend on the type, amount and original color of fibers to treat, an also depend on the final shade of the fibers. The heat effect lasts throughout the coloring process; up to about 75 minutes.
Therefore, the suitable period of time mentioned in step f) of the method may also vary according to the type, amount and original color of fibers to treat. It will also depend on the final shade of the fibers.
Heat increases the bleaching performance of the oxidizing agent, such as a peroxide derivative, under alkaline conditions. Moderated heat is preferably advised in order to achieve lightening of hair melanin without damaging the hair fibers. The present invention further covers a kit comprising at least two containers. The first containers comprising the hair color composition of the invention. The second container comprises the oxidizing agent.
Preferably, the containers may be a tube, a bottle, a pot or any sort of container generally used in commercialization and distribution of cosmetic products. The kit of the invention may further comprise any tools that may be helpful for the mixing of the two phases and the application of the resulting mixture to hair.
These tools may include a graduated tube for measuring the amount of each composition to mix, a mixing pot for mixing them, a brush for applying the mixture on hair, additional containers comprising shampoo and/or hair conditioner for rinsing and/or washing hair.
The kit of the invention may optionally further contain a manual of instructions indicating how to use and mix the hair coloring composition with the oxidizing agent, and tools if any. The manual may also disclose the method of the present invention as disclosed above.
Each members of the kit may be packed into a box, a bag or any kind of known recipient used in the commercialization and distribution of cosmetic products.
The following examples illustrate some preferred embodiments of the invention. The following Table 1 discloses some different compounds useful for the formulation of the hair coloring composition.
TABLE 1
Figure imgf000021_0001
Figure imgf000022_0001
The following Table 2 discloses some different compounds useful for the formulation of an oxidizing composition that has to be mixed with a hair coloring composition of Table !
TABLE 2
Figure imgf000022_0002
Figure imgf000023_0001
In a container, preferably non-metallic, the coloring composition and the oxidizing compositions are mixed together with a ratio of about 1 :1 or 1 :2 (wt. %), depending on the shade selected. It has to be understood that the amounts of active ingredients in the composition is prepared to be mix with a certain concentration of oxidizing agent. The user may decide to use a different concentration of oxidizing composition, without changing the final concentration of the ingredients in the mixture. The ratio indicated above is then variable without falling outside the scope of the present invention.
The mixture is then applied on the hair, using an adequate, preferably non-metallic, tool such as a silicon brush and maintained for a period of time up to about 75 minutes.
After this time, the mixture is removed from the hair by rinsing off the hair with water and shampoo.
The following examples show different containers comprising different composition of the invention.
Example 1 : from virgin natural light brown hair (N5) to medium brown hair (N4)
Coloring Composition:
Figure imgf000023_0002
Figure imgf000024_0001
The other components of the composition may be those disclosed in Table 1 above.
In this particular case, no lightening of keratin fibers is required. Therefore a low percentage of hydrogen peroxide (3.0 wt.%, or 10 Vol.) is needed to be mixed with the coloring composition .
The two compositions are then mixed together in a ratio 1 :1 and applied to hair for a period of 30 minutes. An increase of temperature of +5 0C ± 10C is obtained from the beginning of processing time (room temperature at 200C), to the end.
Example 2: From virgin natural light brown hair (N5) to a very pale natural light blonde (N10) Coloring composition:
Figure imgf000024_0002
The other components of the coloring composition may be those disclosed in Table 1 above.
In this particular case, lightening of keratin fibers is required. Therefore a high percentage of hydrogen peroxide (12.0 wt.% or 40 vol.) is needed to be mixed with the coloring composition. The two compositions are then mixed together in a ratio 1 :1 and applied to the hair for a period of 75 minutes. An increase of temperature of +15 0C ± 1 0C is obtained from the beginning of processing time (room temperature at about 2O0C), to the end.
Example 3: From a virgin natural light brown hair (N5) to a medium copper blonde (N7)
Coloring composition:
Figure imgf000025_0001
The other components of the coloring composition may be those disclosed in Table 1 above.
In this particular case, lightening of keratin fibers is required. Therefore a medium percentage of hydrogen peroxide (6.0 wt.% or 20 vol.) is needed to be mixed with the coloring composition.
The two compositions are then mixed together in a ratio 1 :1 and applied to the hair for a period of 40 minutes. An increase of temperature of +8 0C ±1 0C is obtained from the beginning of processing time (room temperature at about 20°C), to the end.
Example 4: From a very pale bleached hair golden to a very pale copper blonde (K10)
Coloring composition:
Figure imgf000025_0002
Figure imgf000026_0001
The other components of the coloring composition may be those disclosed in Table 1 above.
In this particular case, lightening of keratin fibers is not required. Therefore a low percentage of hydrogen peroxide (1.0 wt% or 3 vol.) is needed to be mixed.
The two compositions are then mixed together in a ratio 1 :1 and applied to the hair for a period of 10 minutes. An increase of temperature of +30C ± 1 0C is obtained from the beginning of processing time (room temperature at about 2O0C), to the end.
Example 5: From a tinted golden medium blond to a red copper medium blonde (RK7)
Coloring composition:
Figure imgf000027_0001
The other components of the coloring composition may be those disclosed in Table 1 above.
In this particular case, lightening of keratin fibers is not required. Therefore a low percentage of hydrogen peroxide (3 wt% or 10 vol.) is needed to be mixed with the coloring composition.
The two compositions are then mixed together in a ratio 1 :1 and applied to the hair for a period of 20 minutes. An increase of temperature of +50C ± 1 0C is obtained from the beginning of processing time (room temperature at about 20°C), to the end.
Although the present invention has been explained hereinabove by way of preferred embodiments thereof, it should be pointed out that any modifications to these preferred embodiments is not deemed to alter or change the nature and scope of the present invention.

Claims

CLAIMS:
1. A hair coloring composition to be mixed with an oxidizing agent before applying on hair to change its color, said composition comprising: at least one reducing agent presents in an amount that is equal or higher than about 1 wt.% of the composition; at least one alkalizing agent; and optionally, at least one coloring agent, wherein, the mixing of said hair coloring composition and said oxidizing agent launches an exothermic chemical reaction providing heat with a temperature that increases from room temperature (RT) to a temperature ranging from about (RT + 3) 0C to about (RT +20) 0C.
2. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the amount of reducing agent is from 1 wt.% to 7 wt.% of the composition.
3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein said at least one reducing agent is selected from thio compounds.
4. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein said at least one reducing agent is sodium metabisulfite, ammonium thioglycolate, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, cysteine, cystamine, glycerol monothioglycolate, thioglycerol, sodium hydrosulfide or a mixture thereof.
5. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the alkalizing agent is present in a concentration ranging from about 1 wt.% to about 20 wt.% of the composition.
6. The composition of claim 5, wherein the concentration of alkalizing agent is ranging from about 4 wt.% to about 12 wt.% of the composition.
7. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the alkalizing agent is monoethanolamine; triethanolamine; ammonium, sodium, potassium or calcium hydroxide; aminopropanol amine; monoisopropanolamine; aminoethylpropanol; guanidine carbonate; sodium silicate; sodium carbonate or mixtures thereof.
8. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising said at least one coloring agent that is selected from the group consisting of dye intermediates, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
9. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein said at least one coloring agent has a concentration equal or lower than about 8 wt.% of the composition.
10. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising components or excipients selected from pH-modifiers, viscosity modifiers, thickeners, solvents, perfumes or fragrances, colorants, opacifiers, surfactants, preservatives, emulsifiers, stabilizers and mixture thereof.
11. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, oxygen peroxide, a persulfate salts, bromate, sodium perborate, sodium carbonate peroxide or mixture thereof.
12. A kit for coloring hair, said kit comprising: a first container comprising the hair coloring composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10, and a second container comprising an oxidizing agent.
13. The kit of claim 12, wherein the oxidizing agent is present in an oxidizing composition in an amount ranging from about 1 wt.% to 15 wt.% of said oxidizing composition.
14. The kit of claim 12 or 13, wherein the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, oxygen peroxide, a persulfate salts, bromate, sodium perborate, sodium carbonate peroxide or mixture thereof.
15. A method for changing a color of hair of a person, said method comprising the steps of: a) determining a type of hair to be colored; b) selecting a hair color modification desired by the person; c) selecting a hair coloring composition as defined in any one of claims
1 to 9 according to the type of hair determined in step a) and the color modification selected in step b); d) selecting a given amount of oxidizing agent to be mixed with the hair color composition selected in step c), said given amount of oxidizing agent being selected in function of the type of hair determined in step a); e) mixing the hair color composition selected in step c) with the oxidizing composition selected in step d) to obtain a mixture, said mixture providing heat generated by an exothermic chemical reaction which provides a temperature that increases from room temperature (RT) to a temperature ranging from about (RT +3)°C to about (RT +20)°C; f) immediately after the mixing, applying said mixture to hair for a suitable period of time for obtaining the color modification selected in step a); and g) removing said mixture from hair.
16. The method of claim 15, wherein the given amount of oxidizing agent is ranging from about 1 to 15 wt.% of an oxidizing composition comprising said oxidizing agent.
17. The method of claim 15 or 16, wherein the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, oxygen peroxide, a persulfate salts, bromate, sodium perborate, sodium carbonate peroxide or mixture thereof.
18. The method of any one of claims 15 to 17, wherein the suitable period of time varies from 10 to 75 minutes.
19. Use of the hair coloring composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10, for coloring hair.
20. Use of the kit as defined in any one of claims 12 to 14, for coloring hair.
PCT/CA2010/000795 2009-05-26 2010-05-25 Exothermic hair color composition, kit and method of use thereof WO2010135827A1 (en)

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WO2015057254A1 (en) * 2013-10-14 2015-04-23 Warner John C Formulation and processes for hair coloring

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US4511360A (en) * 1980-10-16 1985-04-16 L'oreal Dyeing compositions based on oxidation dyestuff precursors and on nitro benzene dyestuffs and their use for dyeing keratin fibres
JP2005041820A (en) * 2003-07-23 2005-02-17 Hoyu Co Ltd Hair dyeing composition
WO2006026851A1 (en) * 2004-09-09 2006-03-16 Les Produits Vernico Ltee Method and kit for modifying the coloration of keratinous fibres

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US4010872A (en) * 1968-08-28 1977-03-08 Dart Industries Inc. Oxidation hair dye in a plural-fluids dispensing package
US4511360A (en) * 1980-10-16 1985-04-16 L'oreal Dyeing compositions based on oxidation dyestuff precursors and on nitro benzene dyestuffs and their use for dyeing keratin fibres
JP2005041820A (en) * 2003-07-23 2005-02-17 Hoyu Co Ltd Hair dyeing composition
WO2006026851A1 (en) * 2004-09-09 2006-03-16 Les Produits Vernico Ltee Method and kit for modifying the coloration of keratinous fibres

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2015057254A1 (en) * 2013-10-14 2015-04-23 Warner John C Formulation and processes for hair coloring
CN105792797A (en) * 2013-10-14 2016-07-20 约翰·C·沃纳 Formulation and processes for hair coloring
CN105792797B (en) * 2013-10-14 2020-10-16 约翰·C·沃纳 Formulations and methods for hair coloring

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