WO2010043482A1 - Composition - Google Patents

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Publication number
WO2010043482A1
WO2010043482A1 PCT/EP2009/062437 EP2009062437W WO2010043482A1 WO 2010043482 A1 WO2010043482 A1 WO 2010043482A1 EP 2009062437 W EP2009062437 W EP 2009062437W WO 2010043482 A1 WO2010043482 A1 WO 2010043482A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition according
particles
gel network
cationic
conditioning
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2009/062437
Other languages
French (fr)
Other versions
WO2010043482A4 (en
Inventor
Apirudee Chuchotiros
Colin Christopher David Giles
Original Assignee
Unilever Plc
Unilever N.V.
Hindustan Unilever Limited
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
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Publication date
Application filed by Unilever Plc, Unilever N.V., Hindustan Unilever Limited filed Critical Unilever Plc
Publication of WO2010043482A1 publication Critical patent/WO2010043482A1/en
Publication of WO2010043482A4 publication Critical patent/WO2010043482A4/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042Gels
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0295Liquid crystals
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an improved conditioning shampoo composition.
  • compositions comprising gel networks are known in the art and include those structured oily phases which are structured by a crystalline material. Typically these gel networks are dispersed in an aqueous cleansing phase to provide a conditioning benefit in a cleansing composition, such as a shampoo.
  • WO 2007/040571 which describes shampoo compositions comprising (a) from about 5 % to about 50 % of one or more detersive surfactants, by weight of the shampoo composition; (b) a dispersed gel network phase comprising, by weight of the shampoo composition, (i) at least about 0.05 % of one or more fatty amphiphiles; (ii) at least about 0.01 % of one or more secondary surfactants; and (iii) water; and (c) at least about 20 % of an aqueous carrier, by weight of the shampoo composition.
  • the present invention provides an aqueous conditioning shampoo according to claim 1.
  • the present invention provides an aqueous conditioning shampoo according to claim 2.
  • the invention uses a gel network as described hereinafter to deliver structure and conditioning benefits to a shampoo composition comprising an anionic cleansing surfactant.
  • gel network is a known term in the art and means a structured conditioning gel phase.
  • structure when used in this context, should be understood to mean “thicken”, i.e. increase the viscosity thereof.
  • the gel network is formed by combining the components at a temperature above the melting point of a fatty material in the presence of water.
  • a fatty material is melted in water and in the presence of an anionic surfactant and a particulate material is then added.
  • a quaternary ammonium compound is also added, preferably after the particulate material.
  • a dispersion of liquid crystalline phase droplets is typically produced. It will be realised that, in effect, the gel network has another component: water.
  • the gel network comprises an L ⁇ lamellar phase dispersion at 25°C.
  • the preferred viscosity for shampoo compositions according to the invention is from 3000 to 9000 cP (mPa.s), more preferably from 5000 to 7000 cP (mPa.s), and most preferably from 5500 to 6500 cP (mPa.s) at 30 0 C, as measured by a Brookfield viscometer equipped with a RVT pin number 5 at a measuring speed of 20 rpm.
  • conditioning shampoo compositions comprising a structured conditioning gel phase or a gel network comprising particles wherein from 40 to 100% vol. of the particles have a diameter of from 15 to 100 micron, preferably from 15 to 30 micron and most preferably from 17 to 23 micron provides improved performance in not adversely affecting the deposition capability of subsequent use of a dedicated conditioner composition.
  • the gel network comprises a particulate having a melting point above 70 0 C.
  • composition according to claim 5 wherein the particulate has a melting point of above 75°C.
  • the particulate has a platelet morphology.
  • the particulate is hydrophobic.
  • the particles When the gel network also comprises a quaternary ammonium compound, the particles also have a melting point higher than this component.
  • the solid particles typically have an inorganic core, although they may be surface-modified with organic groups.
  • the particles have a platelet morphology or are hydrophobic.
  • Plate morphology should be understood to mean that the particles have a “plate-like” shape, i.e. their lengths in two orthogonal directions are considerably greater than their length in the third orthogonal direction.
  • the particles have length and breadth that are each independently at least 10 times greater their depth; where "length”, “breadth”, and “depth” are expressions for the three orthogonal directions.
  • Suitable particles having platelet morphology are clays having a layered structure.
  • Such clays may be anionic or cationic, i.e., they may have a net charge on the surface of the clay that is negative or positive, respectively.
  • Preferred particles having platelet morphology are anionic clays, such as smectite clays. - A -
  • Typical smectite clays include the compounds having the general formula A1 2 (Si2 ⁇ 5)2(OH)2.nH 2 O and the compounds having the general formula Mg 3 (Si 2 Os) 2 (OH) 2 . nH 2 O, and derivatives thereof, for example in which a proportion of the aluminium ions are replaced with magnesium ions or a proportion of the magnesium ions are replaced with lithium ions and/or some of the hydroxyl ions are replaced by fluoride ions; the derivatives may comprise a further metal ion to balance the overall charge.
  • smectite clays are montmorillonites, volchonskoites, nontronites, saponites, beidelites and sauconites, particularly those having an alkali or alkaline earth metal ion within the crystal lattice structure.
  • Preferred smectite clays are montmorillonites, nontronites, saponites, beidelites, sauconites and mixtures thereof.
  • Particularly preferred are montmorillonites, e.g. bentonites and hectohtes, with bentonites being especially preferred.
  • Particularly preferred particles having platelet morphology are hydrophobically- modified anionic clays; especially, hydrophobically-modified bentonite clay.
  • Hydrophobically-modified clays typically have organic cations replacing at least a proportion of the inorganic metal ions of the unmodified clay.
  • Preferred organic cations for this purpose comprising one or more C6-C30 alkyl groups.
  • the cationic group is preferably a quaternary ammonium group.
  • Particularly preferred organic cations have two C 6- C 3 O alkyl groups, for example: distearyldimethylammonium; dicetyldimethylammonium; dimethyldi(hydrogenated tallow)ammonium; dicetylmethylbenzylammonium; dicocodimethylammonium; dibehenyl/diarachidyldimethylammonium; hydroxypropyl bis-stearylammonium; dibehenyldimethylammoniunn; dibehenylmethylbenzylammonium; and dimyristyldimethylammoniunn.
  • distearyldimethylammonium distearyldimethylammonium
  • dicetyldimethylammonium dimethyldi(hydrogenated tallow)ammonium
  • dicetylmethylbenzylammonium dicocodimethylammonium
  • dibehenyl/diarachidyldimethylammonium hydroxypropyl
  • Especially preferred particulate materials having platelet morphology are Quaternium-18 Bentonite, i.e. bentonite hydrophobically-modified by dimethyldi(hydrogenated tallow)ammonium cations) and Quaternium-90 Bentonite, an analogous material with two vegetable-derived fatty chains.
  • examples of such clays are Tixogel MP 100TM and Tixogel MP 100VTM from Sud Chemie.
  • Other similar materials include Quaternium benzalkonium bentonite, Quaternium-18 hectohte, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectorite and dihydrogenated tallow benzylmonium hectorite.
  • the particles having platelet morphology have a particle size such that preferably at least 50% and more preferably at least 80% of them are able to pass through a 90 micron screen, such as an air sieve as commonly used in the art.
  • hydrophobic should be understood to mean that the particulates lack an affinity for water; in particular, that they have a solubility in water of less than 0.01 g/l and that they are not dispersible in water without continual agitation.
  • the hydrophobic particulates partition into n-octanol rather than water, when shaken at 25°C in a 1 :1 mixture by volume of these liquids; that is to say, the majority (greater than 50%) and more typically greater than 90% of the particulates partition in this manner.
  • Suitable hydrophobic particulates may be inorganic, organic, or of mixed inorganic/organic nature.
  • Suitable hydrophobic particulates include clays, hydrophobically modified acrylates, zinc pyhthione, hydrophobically modified cellulose, hydrophobically modified silica, hexafluoropropylene/tetrafluoroethylene copolymer, PTFE, styrene/acrylates, nylon, polyurethane, polyvinylchlohde, polymethylmethacrylate, aluminium starch octenylsuccinate, acrylates, ammonium acrylates, cellulose, dextran, silica, carbomer, chalk, chitosan, titanium dioxide, titanium hydroxide, alumina and mixtures thereof.
  • the total amount of particles is preferably from 0.005 to 10%, more preferably from 0.01 to 2%, especially preferably from 0.02 to 0.1 % and most preferably from 0.03 to 0.07% by weight of the total composition.
  • the weight ratio of particles having platelet morphology to the fatty ester is preferably from 1 : 100 to 1 :2, more preferably from 1 :50 to 1 :5, and most preferably from 1 :30 to 1 :10.
  • a quaternary ammonium compound having at least one carbon chain of length C12-C30 is a preferred component of the gel network.
  • the quaternary ammonium compound has only one carbon chain of length C12- C30.
  • the one carbon chain of length C12-C30 is a linear (i.e. non- branched) hydrocarbon chain.
  • the one carbon chain of length C12-C30 is saturated.
  • the one carbon chain of length C12-C30 is of chain length C12-C22 and more preferably it is of chain length Ci6-C22-
  • the one carbon chain of length C12-C30 is preferably of average chain length within four carbons, and more preferably within two carbon atoms, of the average chain length of the C12-C22 fatty alcohol also present in the gel network, in order to enhance the stability of the gel.
  • the quaternary ammonium compound having at least one carbon chain of length C12-C30 has three other carbon-containing substituents attached to the quaternary nitrogen atom. These are typically Ci-C 4 alkyl groups and are preferably methyl and/or ethyl groups; most preferably they are methyl groups. Most preferably, the quaternary ammonium compound having at least one carbon chain of length C12-C30 is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benhenyltrimethylammonium chloride.
  • the total amount of quaternary ammonium compound having at least one carbon chain of length C12-C30 is preferably from 0.005 to 10%, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.5%, especially preferably from 0.02 to 0.09% and most preferably from 0.03 to 0.07% by weight of the total composition.
  • the weight ratio of quaternary ammonium compound having at least one carbon chain of length C12-C30 to particles is preferably from 1 :3 to 3:1 , more preferably from 1.3:1 to 1 :1.3.
  • the molar ratio of quaternary ammonium compound having at least one carbon chain of length C12-C30 to fatty material is preferably from 1 :50 to 2:1 , more preferably from 1 :10 to 1 :30.
  • the gel network comprises a fatty material.
  • the fatty material comprises an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22, preferably, from 14 to 20 and most preferably 18 carbons.
  • the alkyl chain may be branched or straight but it is preferred that it is straight chain.
  • the fatty materials provide structure to the structured gel phase or gel network.
  • the fatty material is selected from fatty esters, fatty amides, fatty acids and fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty material is a fatty ester.
  • Fatty esters provide stability as well as structure to the gel network or structured gel phase.
  • the fatty ester is a mono-, diester, or mixture thereof.
  • the fatty ester comprises a polyol having n hydroxyl groups and n-1 alkylester groups, where n is at least 2.
  • the fatty ester is a monoester.
  • Preferred examples include monesters of ethylene diol, propylene diol, butylene diol, glycerol and sugars, etc.
  • the most preferred fatty ester is glyceryl monostearate.
  • fatty material is a fatty alcohol it is preferred that it is cetyl alcohol and/or stearyl alcohol.
  • the total amount of fatty material is preferably from 0.01 to 20%, more preferably from 0.1 to 10%, and most preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight of the total composition.
  • the most preferred gel network comprises:
  • aqueous conditioning shampoo composition is meant a composition which has water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystalline phase as its major component.
  • the composition will comprise at least 50%, preferably at least 60%, at most preferably at least 75% by weight of water.
  • Conditioning shampoo compositions according to the invention comprise one or more anionic cleansing surfactants, which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.
  • anionic cleansing surfactants are the alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and thethanolamine salts.
  • the alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated.
  • alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof may contain from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.
  • Typical anionic cleansing surfactants for use in shampoo compositions of the invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium dodecyl benzene sulphonate, thethanolamine dodecyl benzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.
  • Preferred anionic cleansing surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium cocoyl isethionate and lauryl ether carboxylic acid (n) EO (where n is from 10 to 20).
  • the total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant preferably ranges from 0.5 to 75%. Where the composition is a concentrated shampoo composition it is preferred that it comprises from 27-65% wt. cleansing surfactant, more preferably from 35 to 45% wt. Where the composition is a regular, non-concentrated shampoo composition it is preferred that it comprises from 10 to 20% wt. cleansing surfactant.
  • a preferred additional component in conditioning shampoo compositions according to the invention is silicone oil.
  • silicone oil is typically present as emulsified droplets having a mean droplet diameter (D 32 ) of 4 micrometres or less.
  • the mean droplet diameter (D 32 ) is 1 micrometre or less, more preferably 0.5 micrometre or less, and most preferably 0.25 micrometre or less.
  • a suitable method for measuring the mean droplet diameter (D 32 ) is by laser light scattering using an instrument such as a Malvern Mastersizer.
  • the silicone oil is non-volatile, meaning that it has a vapour pressure of less than 1000 Pa at 25°C.
  • Suitable silicone oils are polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups (dimethiconols), and amino-functional polydimethylsiloxanes (amodimethicones).
  • Suitable silicones preferably have a molecular weight of greater than 100,000 and more preferably a molecular weight of greater than 250,000.
  • Suitable silicones preferably have a kinematic viscosity of greater than 50,000 cS (mm 2 . s "1 ) and more preferably a kinematic viscosity of greater than 500,000 cS (mm 2 . s "1 ).
  • Silicone oil kinematic viscosities as referred to in this specification are measured at 25°C and can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set out further in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM004 July 20, 1970.
  • Suitable silicones for use in compositions of the invention are available as preformed silicone emulsions from suppliers such as Dow Corning and GE Silicones. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsions is preferred for ease of processing and control of silicone particle size.
  • Such pre-formed silicone emulsions will typically additionally comprise a suitable emulsifier, and may be prepared by a chemical emulsification process such as emulsion polymerisation, or by mechanical emulsification using a high shear mixer.
  • Pre-formed silicone emulsions having a Sauter mean droplet diameter (D 32 ) of less than 0.15 micrometers are generally termed microemulsions.
  • Suitable pre-formed silicone emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784, DC-1785, DC-1786, DC-1788, DC-1310, DC-7123 and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions/microemulsions of dimethiconol. Also suitable are amodimethicone emulsions such as DC939 (from Dow Corning) and SME253 (from GE Silicones). Also suitable are silicone emulsions in which certain types of surface active block copolymers of a high molecular weight have been blended with the silicone emulsion droplets, as described for example in WO03/094874.
  • the total amount of silicone oil in compositions of the invention may suitably range from 0.05 to 10%, particularly from 0.2 to 8%, and especially from 0.5 to 5% by weight of the composition.
  • a further component that may be used in compositions of the invention is a hydrocarbon oil or ester oil. Like silicone oils, these materials may enhance the conditioning benefits found with compositions of the invention.
  • Suitable hydrocarbon oils have at least 12 carbon atoms, and include paraffin oil, mineral oil, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturated and unsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane, saturated and unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and unsaturated hexadecane, and mixtures thereof. Branched-chain isomers of these compounds, as well as of higher chain length hydrocarbons, can also be used. Also suitable are polymeric hydrocarbons of C2-6 alkenyl monomers, such as polyisobutylene.
  • Suitable ester oils have at least 10 carbon atoms, and include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols.
  • Typical ester oils are formula R'COOR in which R' and R independently denote alkyl or alkenyl radicals and the sum of carbon atoms in R' and R is at least 10, preferably at least 20.
  • Di- and trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids can also be used.
  • Preferred fatty oils are mono-, di- and triglycerides, more specifically the mono-, di-, and tri-esters of glycerol with long chain carboxylic acids such as C 1-22 carboxylic acids.
  • carboxylic acids such as C 1-22 carboxylic acids.
  • examples of such materials include cocoa butter, palm stearin, sunflower oil, soyabean oil and coconut oil.
  • the total combined amount of hydrocarbon oil and ester oil in compositions of the invention may suitably range from 0.05 to 10%, particularly from 0.2 to 5%, and especially from 0.5 to 3% by weight of the composition.
  • a preferred additional component in conditioning shampoo compositions according to the invention is a cationic polymer. Such components may enhance the deliver of conditioning agents and thereby improve the conditioning benefits obtained.
  • Cationic polymers typically contain cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups.
  • the cationic protonated amines can be primary, secondary, or tertiary amines (preferably secondary or tertiary).
  • the average molecular weight of the cationic polymer is preferably from 5,000 to 10 million.
  • the cationic polymer preferably has a cationic charge density of from 0.2 meq/gm to 7 meq/gm.
  • the cationic nitrogen-containing moiety of the cationic polymer is generally present as a substituent on all, or more typically on some, of the repeat units thereof.
  • the cationic polymer may be a homo-polymer or co-polymer of quaternary ammonium or cationic amine-substituted repeat units, optionally in combination with non-cationic repeat units.
  • Non-limiting examples of such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 6th edition, edited by Wenninger, JA and McEwen Jr, GN, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 1995).
  • Particularly suitable cationic polymers for use in the composition include polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guars.
  • cationic cellulose derivatives are salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethylammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10. Further examples of cationic cellulose derivatives are prepared from hydroxyethyl cellulose and lauryldimethylammonium- substituted epoxide and are referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24.
  • Especially preferred cationic polymers are cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropylthmonium chloride, specific examples of which include the JAGUAR series commercially available from Rhodia Corp. (e.g., JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C13S).
  • Suitable cationic polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers, examples of which are described in US 3,962,418.
  • Other suitable cationic polymers include derivatives of ethehfied cellulose, guar and starch, some examples of which are described in US 3,958,581.
  • Synthetic cationic polymers may also be employed. Examples include copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic protonated amine or quaternary ammonium functionality with water soluble spacer repeat units, typically derived from monomers such as acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-alkyl and N,N-dialkyl acrylamides and methacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, allyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl acetate,/alcohol. Other spacer repeat units may be derived from maleic anhydride, propylene glycol, or ethylene glycol.
  • Suitable synthetic cationic polymers include co-polymers of 1 -vinyl-2- pyrrolidone and 1 -vinyl-3- methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt), referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-16; co-polymers of 1 -vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, refereed to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-11 ; cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers, including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homo-polymer and co- polymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; and mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-polymers and co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms.
  • the total amount of cationic polymer in the composition is preferably from 0.05% to 2% and more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of the composition.
  • amphoteric surfactant is a preferred additional ingredient in compositions of the invention.
  • Suitable amphoteric surfactants are betaines, such as those having the general formula R(CH 3 )2N + CH 2 CO2 " , where R is an alkyl or alkylamidoalkyl group, the alkyl group preferably having 10-16 carbon atoms.
  • Particularly suitable betaines are oleyl betaine, caprylamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, isostearylamidopropyl betaine, and cocoamidopropyl betaine.
  • betaine amphoteric surfactants are sulfobetaines, such as those having the general formula RXCHS) 2 N + CH 2 CH(OH)CH 2 SO 3 " , where R' is an alkyl or alkylamidoalkyl group, the alkyl group preferably having 10-16 carbon atoms.
  • Particularly suitable sulfobetaines are laurylamidopropyl hydroxysultaine and cocoamidopropyl hydroxysultaine.
  • amphoteric surfactants are fatty amine oxides, such as lauryldimethylamine oxide.
  • the total level of amphoteric surfactant is preferably from 0.1 % to 20%, more preferably from 1 % to 10%, and most preferably from 1 % to 5% by weight of the composition.
  • a Carbomer may be advantageously employed in particular embodiments of the invention.
  • a Carbomer is a homopolymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythhtol or an allyl ether of sucrose. Such materials may serve as suspending agents.
  • the total level of Carbomer is preferably from 0.01 % to 10%, more preferably from 0.1 % to 5%, and most preferably from 0.25% to 1 % by weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention may contain other ingredients suitable for use in hair cleansing and conditioning compositions.
  • Such ingredients include but are not limited to: fragrance, suspending agents, amino acids and protein derivatives, viscosity modifiers, preservatives, colourants and pearlisers.
  • the gel network is formed by combining the cationic surfactant and fatty material with water in the presence of anionic surfactant and melting and mixing until homogenous before adding the particulate. More preferably, this is done by mixing anionic surfactant with the CTAC and particulate in the presence of heat and water prior to adding to heated fatty material and then adding to the remainder of the water and anionic surfactant before adding the remaining ingredients in turn.
  • anionic surfactant in water is acting as an emulsifier for the fatty material/cationic surfactant and particulate mixture.
  • this mixture is cooled to from 40 to 50 0 C before adding to a mixer containing the cleansing surfactant and water. The remainder of the ingredients are then added.

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Abstract

Aqueous conditioning shampoo comprising cleansing surfactant and a conditioning gel network, the gel network comprising particles, wherein from 40 to 100% vol. of the particles in the gel network have a diameter from 15 to 100 micron. Aqueous conditioning shampoo comprising cleansing surfactant and a structured conditioning gel phase, the structured gel phase comprising particles, wherein from 40 to 100% vol. of the particles in the gel network have a diameter from 15 to 100 micron.

Description

COMPOSITION
The present invention relates to an improved conditioning shampoo composition.
Compositions comprising gel networks are known in the art and include those structured oily phases which are structured by a crystalline material. Typically these gel networks are dispersed in an aqueous cleansing phase to provide a conditioning benefit in a cleansing composition, such as a shampoo. Typical of such a disclosure is WO 2007/040571 (P&G) which describes shampoo compositions comprising (a) from about 5 % to about 50 % of one or more detersive surfactants, by weight of the shampoo composition; (b) a dispersed gel network phase comprising, by weight of the shampoo composition, (i) at least about 0.05 % of one or more fatty amphiphiles; (ii) at least about 0.01 % of one or more secondary surfactants; and (iii) water; and (c) at least about 20 % of an aqueous carrier, by weight of the shampoo composition.
Despite the prior art there remains a need for conditioning shampoo compositions which are more effective in cleansing the hair without negatively impacting the conditioning effect of subsequent use of a dedicated conditioning composition.
Accordingly, and in a first aspect, the present invention provides an aqueous conditioning shampoo according to claim 1.
In a further aspect the present invention provides an aqueous conditioning shampoo according to claim 2.
The invention uses a gel network as described hereinafter to deliver structure and conditioning benefits to a shampoo composition comprising an anionic cleansing surfactant. The term gel network is a known term in the art and means a structured conditioning gel phase. The term "structure", when used in this context, should be understood to mean "thicken", i.e. increase the viscosity thereof.
Preferably, the gel network is formed by combining the components at a temperature above the melting point of a fatty material in the presence of water. In a preferred method of manufacture, a fatty material is melted in water and in the presence of an anionic surfactant and a particulate material is then added. In a more preferred method of manufacture, a quaternary ammonium compound is also added, preferably after the particulate material. A dispersion of liquid crystalline phase droplets is typically produced. It will be realised that, in effect, the gel network has another component: water. In preferred embodiments, the gel network comprises an Lβ lamellar phase dispersion at 25°C.
The preferred viscosity for shampoo compositions according to the invention is from 3000 to 9000 cP (mPa.s), more preferably from 5000 to 7000 cP (mPa.s), and most preferably from 5500 to 6500 cP (mPa.s) at 300C, as measured by a Brookfield viscometer equipped with a RVT pin number 5 at a measuring speed of 20 rpm.
We have surprisingly found that conditioning shampoo compositions comprising a structured conditioning gel phase or a gel network comprising particles wherein from 40 to 100% vol. of the particles have a diameter of from 15 to 100 micron, preferably from 15 to 30 micron and most preferably from 17 to 23 micron provides improved performance in not adversely affecting the deposition capability of subsequent use of a dedicated conditioner composition.
More preferably, from 60 to 100% and most preferably from 80 to 100% vol. of the particles in the gel network or structured conditioning gel phase have these particle sizes. Preferably, the gel network comprises a particulate having a melting point above 700C.
Composition according to claim 5 wherein the particulate has a melting point of above 75°C.
Preferably, the particulate has a platelet morphology. Alternatively, the particulate is hydrophobic.
When the gel network also comprises a quaternary ammonium compound, the particles also have a melting point higher than this component. Typically, the solid particles have an inorganic core, although they may be surface-modified with organic groups.
Preferably, the particles have a platelet morphology or are hydrophobic.
"Platelet morphology" should be understood to mean that the particles have a "plate-like" shape, i.e. their lengths in two orthogonal directions are considerably greater than their length in the third orthogonal direction. Typically, the particles have length and breadth that are each independently at least 10 times greater their depth; where "length", "breadth", and "depth" are expressions for the three orthogonal directions.
Suitable particles having platelet morphology are clays having a layered structure. Such clays may be anionic or cationic, i.e., they may have a net charge on the surface of the clay that is negative or positive, respectively.
Preferred particles having platelet morphology are anionic clays, such as smectite clays. - A -
Typical smectite clays include the compounds having the general formula A12(Si2θ5)2(OH)2.nH2O and the compounds having the general formula Mg3(Si2Os)2(OH)2. nH2O, and derivatives thereof, for example in which a proportion of the aluminium ions are replaced with magnesium ions or a proportion of the magnesium ions are replaced with lithium ions and/or some of the hydroxyl ions are replaced by fluoride ions; the derivatives may comprise a further metal ion to balance the overall charge.
Specific examples of suitable smectite clays are montmorillonites, volchonskoites, nontronites, saponites, beidelites and sauconites, particularly those having an alkali or alkaline earth metal ion within the crystal lattice structure. Preferred smectite clays are montmorillonites, nontronites, saponites, beidelites, sauconites and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are montmorillonites, e.g. bentonites and hectohtes, with bentonites being especially preferred.
Particularly preferred particles having platelet morphology are hydrophobically- modified anionic clays; especially, hydrophobically-modified bentonite clay.
Hydrophobically-modified clays typically have organic cations replacing at least a proportion of the inorganic metal ions of the unmodified clay. Preferred organic cations for this purpose comprising one or more C6-C30 alkyl groups. The cationic group is preferably a quaternary ammonium group. Particularly preferred organic cations have two C6-C3O alkyl groups, for example: distearyldimethylammonium; dicetyldimethylammonium; dimethyldi(hydrogenated tallow)ammonium; dicetylmethylbenzylammonium; dicocodimethylammonium; dibehenyl/diarachidyldimethylammonium; hydroxypropyl bis-stearylammonium; dibehenyldimethylammoniunn; dibehenylmethylbenzylammonium; and dimyristyldimethylammoniunn.
Especially preferred particulate materials having platelet morphology are Quaternium-18 Bentonite, i.e. bentonite hydrophobically-modified by dimethyldi(hydrogenated tallow)ammonium cations) and Quaternium-90 Bentonite, an analogous material with two vegetable-derived fatty chains. Examples of such clays are Tixogel MP 100™ and Tixogel MP 100V™ from Sud Chemie. Other similar materials include Quaternium benzalkonium bentonite, Quaternium-18 hectohte, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectorite and dihydrogenated tallow benzylmonium hectorite.
The particles having platelet morphology have a particle size such that preferably at least 50% and more preferably at least 80% of them are able to pass through a 90 micron screen, such as an air sieve as commonly used in the art.
The term "hydrophobic" should be understood to mean that the particulates lack an affinity for water; in particular, that they have a solubility in water of less than 0.01 g/l and that they are not dispersible in water without continual agitation. Typically, the hydrophobic particulates partition into n-octanol rather than water, when shaken at 25°C in a 1 :1 mixture by volume of these liquids; that is to say, the majority (greater than 50%) and more typically greater than 90% of the particulates partition in this manner.
Suitable hydrophobic particulates may be inorganic, organic, or of mixed inorganic/organic nature.
Suitable hydrophobic particulates include clays, hydrophobically modified acrylates, zinc pyhthione, hydrophobically modified cellulose, hydrophobically modified silica, hexafluoropropylene/tetrafluoroethylene copolymer, PTFE, styrene/acrylates, nylon, polyurethane, polyvinylchlohde, polymethylmethacrylate, aluminium starch octenylsuccinate, acrylates, ammonium acrylates, cellulose, dextran, silica, carbomer, chalk, chitosan, titanium dioxide, titanium hydroxide, alumina and mixtures thereof.
The total amount of particles is preferably from 0.005 to 10%, more preferably from 0.01 to 2%, especially preferably from 0.02 to 0.1 % and most preferably from 0.03 to 0.07% by weight of the total composition.
The weight ratio of particles having platelet morphology to the fatty ester is preferably from 1 : 100 to 1 :2, more preferably from 1 :50 to 1 :5, and most preferably from 1 :30 to 1 :10.
A quaternary ammonium compound having at least one carbon chain of length C12-C30 is a preferred component of the gel network. In preferred embodiments, the quaternary ammonium compound has only one carbon chain of length C12- C30. Typically, the one carbon chain of length C12-C30 is a linear (i.e. non- branched) hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the one carbon chain of length C12-C30 is saturated. Preferably, the one carbon chain of length C12-C30 is of chain length C12-C22 and more preferably it is of chain length Ci6-C22- The one carbon chain of length C12-C30 is preferably of average chain length within four carbons, and more preferably within two carbon atoms, of the average chain length of the C12-C22 fatty alcohol also present in the gel network, in order to enhance the stability of the gel.
The quaternary ammonium compound having at least one carbon chain of length C12-C30 has three other carbon-containing substituents attached to the quaternary nitrogen atom. These are typically Ci-C4 alkyl groups and are preferably methyl and/or ethyl groups; most preferably they are methyl groups. Most preferably, the quaternary ammonium compound having at least one carbon chain of length C12-C30 is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benhenyltrimethylammonium chloride.
When present, the total amount of quaternary ammonium compound having at least one carbon chain of length C12-C30 is preferably from 0.005 to 10%, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.5%, especially preferably from 0.02 to 0.09% and most preferably from 0.03 to 0.07% by weight of the total composition.
The weight ratio of quaternary ammonium compound having at least one carbon chain of length C12-C30 to particles is preferably from 1 :3 to 3:1 , more preferably from 1.3:1 to 1 :1.3.
The molar ratio of quaternary ammonium compound having at least one carbon chain of length C12-C30 to fatty material is preferably from 1 :50 to 2:1 , more preferably from 1 :10 to 1 :30.
Preferably, the gel network comprises a fatty material.
Preferably, the fatty material comprises an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22, preferably, from 14 to 20 and most preferably 18 carbons. The alkyl chain may be branched or straight but it is preferred that it is straight chain.
The fatty materials provide structure to the structured gel phase or gel network.
The fatty material is selected from fatty esters, fatty amides, fatty acids and fatty alcohols. Preferably, the fatty material is a fatty ester. Fatty esters provide stability as well as structure to the gel network or structured gel phase.
Preferably, the fatty ester is a mono-, diester, or mixture thereof. Preferably, the fatty ester comprises a polyol having n hydroxyl groups and n-1 alkylester groups, where n is at least 2.
More preferably, the fatty ester is a monoester. Preferred examples include monesters of ethylene diol, propylene diol, butylene diol, glycerol and sugars, etc.
The most preferred fatty ester is glyceryl monostearate.
Where the fatty material is a fatty alcohol it is preferred that it is cetyl alcohol and/or stearyl alcohol.
The total amount of fatty material is preferably from 0.01 to 20%, more preferably from 0.1 to 10%, and most preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight of the total composition.
The most preferred gel network comprises:
-from 0.03 to 0.07% wt. of the shampoo composition, cationic surfactant;
-from 0.03 to 0.07% wt. of the shampoo composition, cationic modified clay;
-from 0.8 to 1.2% wt. of the shampoo composition, glyceryl monostearate; and
-water. By "aqueous conditioning shampoo composition" is meant a composition which has water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystalline phase as its major component. Typically, the composition will comprise at least 50%, preferably at least 60%, at most preferably at least 75% by weight of water.
Conditioning shampoo compositions according to the invention comprise one or more anionic cleansing surfactants, which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.
Examples of suitable anionic cleansing surfactants are the alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and thethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof may contain from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.
Typical anionic cleansing surfactants for use in shampoo compositions of the invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium dodecyl benzene sulphonate, thethanolamine dodecyl benzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.
Preferred anionic cleansing surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium cocoyl isethionate and lauryl ether carboxylic acid (n) EO (where n is from 10 to 20).
Mixtures of any of the foregoing anionic cleansing surfactants may also be suitable.
The total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant preferably ranges from 0.5 to 75%. Where the composition is a concentrated shampoo composition it is preferred that it comprises from 27-65% wt. cleansing surfactant, more preferably from 35 to 45% wt. Where the composition is a regular, non-concentrated shampoo composition it is preferred that it comprises from 10 to 20% wt. cleansing surfactant.
A preferred additional component in conditioning shampoo compositions according to the invention is silicone oil.
When used, silicone oil is typically present as emulsified droplets having a mean droplet diameter (D32) of 4 micrometres or less. Preferably the mean droplet diameter (D32) is 1 micrometre or less, more preferably 0.5 micrometre or less, and most preferably 0.25 micrometre or less.
A suitable method for measuring the mean droplet diameter (D32) is by laser light scattering using an instrument such as a Malvern Mastersizer.
Preferably the silicone oil is non-volatile, meaning that it has a vapour pressure of less than 1000 Pa at 25°C.
Suitable silicone oils are polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups (dimethiconols), and amino-functional polydimethylsiloxanes (amodimethicones).
Suitable silicones preferably have a molecular weight of greater than 100,000 and more preferably a molecular weight of greater than 250,000.
Suitable silicones preferably have a kinematic viscosity of greater than 50,000 cS (mm2. s"1) and more preferably a kinematic viscosity of greater than 500,000 cS (mm2. s"1). Silicone oil kinematic viscosities as referred to in this specification are measured at 25°C and can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set out further in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM004 July 20, 1970.
Suitable silicones for use in compositions of the invention are available as preformed silicone emulsions from suppliers such as Dow Corning and GE Silicones. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsions is preferred for ease of processing and control of silicone particle size. Such pre-formed silicone emulsions will typically additionally comprise a suitable emulsifier, and may be prepared by a chemical emulsification process such as emulsion polymerisation, or by mechanical emulsification using a high shear mixer. Pre-formed silicone emulsions having a Sauter mean droplet diameter (D32) of less than 0.15 micrometers are generally termed microemulsions.
Examples of suitable pre-formed silicone emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784, DC-1785, DC-1786, DC-1788, DC-1310, DC-7123 and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions/microemulsions of dimethiconol. Also suitable are amodimethicone emulsions such as DC939 (from Dow Corning) and SME253 (from GE Silicones). Also suitable are silicone emulsions in which certain types of surface active block copolymers of a high molecular weight have been blended with the silicone emulsion droplets, as described for example in WO03/094874.
Mixtures of any of the above described silicone emulsions may also be used.
The total amount of silicone oil in compositions of the invention may suitably range from 0.05 to 10%, particularly from 0.2 to 8%, and especially from 0.5 to 5% by weight of the composition.
A further component that may be used in compositions of the invention is a hydrocarbon oil or ester oil. Like silicone oils, these materials may enhance the conditioning benefits found with compositions of the invention.
Suitable hydrocarbon oils have at least 12 carbon atoms, and include paraffin oil, mineral oil, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturated and unsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane, saturated and unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and unsaturated hexadecane, and mixtures thereof. Branched-chain isomers of these compounds, as well as of higher chain length hydrocarbons, can also be used. Also suitable are polymeric hydrocarbons of C2-6 alkenyl monomers, such as polyisobutylene.
Suitable ester oils have at least 10 carbon atoms, and include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols. Typical ester oils are formula R'COOR in which R' and R independently denote alkyl or alkenyl radicals and the sum of carbon atoms in R' and R is at least 10, preferably at least 20. Di- and trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids can also be used.
Preferred fatty oils are mono-, di- and triglycerides, more specifically the mono-, di-, and tri-esters of glycerol with long chain carboxylic acids such as C 1-22 carboxylic acids. Examples of such materials include cocoa butter, palm stearin, sunflower oil, soyabean oil and coconut oil.
Mixtures of any of the above described hydrocarbon/ester oils also be used.
The total combined amount of hydrocarbon oil and ester oil in compositions of the invention may suitably range from 0.05 to 10%, particularly from 0.2 to 5%, and especially from 0.5 to 3% by weight of the composition.
A preferred additional component in conditioning shampoo compositions according to the invention is a cationic polymer. Such components may enhance the deliver of conditioning agents and thereby improve the conditioning benefits obtained.
Cationic polymers typically contain cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups. The cationic protonated amines can be primary, secondary, or tertiary amines (preferably secondary or tertiary). The average molecular weight of the cationic polymer is preferably from 5,000 to 10 million. The cationic polymer preferably has a cationic charge density of from 0.2 meq/gm to 7 meq/gm.
The cationic nitrogen-containing moiety of the cationic polymer is generally present as a substituent on all, or more typically on some, of the repeat units thereof. The cationic polymer may be a homo-polymer or co-polymer of quaternary ammonium or cationic amine-substituted repeat units, optionally in combination with non-cationic repeat units. Non-limiting examples of such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 6th edition, edited by Wenninger, JA and McEwen Jr, GN, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 1995). Particularly suitable cationic polymers for use in the composition include polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guars.
Examples of cationic cellulose derivatives are salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethylammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10. Further examples of cationic cellulose derivatives are prepared from hydroxyethyl cellulose and lauryldimethylammonium- substituted epoxide and are referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24.
Especially preferred cationic polymers are cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropylthmonium chloride, specific examples of which include the JAGUAR series commercially available from Rhodia Corp. (e.g., JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C13S).
Other suitable cationic polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers, examples of which are described in US 3,962,418. Other suitable cationic polymers include derivatives of ethehfied cellulose, guar and starch, some examples of which are described in US 3,958,581.
Synthetic cationic polymers may also be employed. Examples include copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic protonated amine or quaternary ammonium functionality with water soluble spacer repeat units, typically derived from monomers such as acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-alkyl and N,N-dialkyl acrylamides and methacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, allyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl acetate,/alcohol. Other spacer repeat units may be derived from maleic anhydride, propylene glycol, or ethylene glycol.
Other suitable synthetic cationic polymers include co-polymers of 1 -vinyl-2- pyrrolidone and 1 -vinyl-3- methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt), referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-16; co-polymers of 1 -vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, refereed to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-11 ; cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers, including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homo-polymer and co- polymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; and mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-polymers and co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms.
The total amount of cationic polymer in the composition is preferably from 0.05% to 2% and more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of the composition.
An amphoteric surfactant is a preferred additional ingredient in compositions of the invention. Suitable amphoteric surfactants are betaines, such as those having the general formula R(CH3)2N+CH2CO2", where R is an alkyl or alkylamidoalkyl group, the alkyl group preferably having 10-16 carbon atoms. Particularly suitable betaines are oleyl betaine, caprylamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, isostearylamidopropyl betaine, and cocoamidopropyl betaine.
Other suitable betaine amphoteric surfactants are sulfobetaines, such as those having the general formula RXCHS)2N+CH2CH(OH)CH2SO3 ", where R' is an alkyl or alkylamidoalkyl group, the alkyl group preferably having 10-16 carbon atoms. Particularly suitable sulfobetaines are laurylamidopropyl hydroxysultaine and cocoamidopropyl hydroxysultaine.
Other suitable amphoteric surfactants are fatty amine oxides, such as lauryldimethylamine oxide. When included, the total level of amphoteric surfactant is preferably from 0.1 % to 20%, more preferably from 1 % to 10%, and most preferably from 1 % to 5% by weight of the composition.
A Carbomer may be advantageously employed in particular embodiments of the invention. A Carbomer is a homopolymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythhtol or an allyl ether of sucrose. Such materials may serve as suspending agents.
When included, the total level of Carbomer is preferably from 0.01 % to 10%, more preferably from 0.1 % to 5%, and most preferably from 0.25% to 1 % by weight of the composition.
Compositions according to the invention may contain other ingredients suitable for use in hair cleansing and conditioning compositions. Such ingredients include but are not limited to: fragrance, suspending agents, amino acids and protein derivatives, viscosity modifiers, preservatives, colourants and pearlisers.
Preferably, the gel network is formed by combining the cationic surfactant and fatty material with water in the presence of anionic surfactant and melting and mixing until homogenous before adding the particulate. More preferably, this is done by mixing anionic surfactant with the CTAC and particulate in the presence of heat and water prior to adding to heated fatty material and then adding to the remainder of the water and anionic surfactant before adding the remaining ingredients in turn. In effect the anionic surfactant in water is acting as an emulsifier for the fatty material/cationic surfactant and particulate mixture.
Preferably, this mixture is cooled to from 40 to 500C before adding to a mixer containing the cleansing surfactant and water. The remainder of the ingredients are then added.
EXAMPLE 1
A formulation according to the invention manufactured in accordance with the process in Example 2.
Figure imgf000018_0001
EXAMPLE 2
Process for making formulation in Example 1.
1. Charge ambient demineralised chlorinated water into main mixer. Start agitator and recirculate. 2. Transfer SLES1 EO into main mixer until homogenous.
3. In a first side mixer melt GMS by heating up to 75-800C and mix with medium speed until fully melt. Then slowly add Tixogel while stirring with high speed.
Mix 5 min, check homogenous. Then add hot water (75-800C) and mix 5min. Then cool down with medium speed in jacket. Check homogenous and temperature <55°C (record temp).
4. In a second side mixer add anionic surfactant to water and heat to 75-800C. Then add CTAC until completely dissolved. Then add contents of first side mixer to second side mixer.
5. Check side mixture temp<55C, then transfer contents of side mixer to main mixer. Mix with medium speed for 5 min. Check homogenous. (If not homogenous, to extend the agitation time).
6. Transfer Carbopol to main mixer. Mix with medium speed for 5 min.
7. Transfer sodium hydroxide and water to main mixer. Mix with medium speed for 5 min. Adjust pH=6.3-6.6.
8. To dissolve EDTA2Na with water for 5 min in side mixer. Check clear solution. Then add Timiron MP1001 and mix with medium speed for 2 min.
9. Transfer EDTA and pearlescer from side mixer to main mixer. Mix with medium speed for 5 min.
10. Prepare perfume with high speed for 5 min in side mixer. 11. Transfer 9 to main mixer. Mix with medium speed for 5 min.
12. Transfer polydimethylsiloxane and water to main mixer. Mix with medium speed for 5 min.
13. Transfer preservative to main mixer. Mix with medium speed for 5 min.
14. Transfer amphoteric surfactant to main mixer. Mix with medium speed for 5 min.
15. The remaining product. Adjust viscosity to 3500-5500cps. And pH.

Claims

1. Aqueous conditioning shampoo comprising cleansing surfactant and a conditioning gel network, the gel network comprising particles, wherein from 40 to 100% vol. of the particles in the gel network have a diameter from 15 to 100 micron.
2. Aqueous conditioning shampoo comprising cleansing surfactant and a structured conditioning gel phase, the structured gel phase comprising particles, wherein from 40 to 100% vol. of the particles in the gel network have a diameter from 15 to 100 micron.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein from 40 to 100% vol. of the particles have a diameter of from 15 to 30 nm.
4. Composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein from 40 to 100% vol. of the particles have a diameter of from 18 to 22 nm.
5. Composition according to any preceding claim comprising a fatty ester.
6. Composition according to any preceding claim comprising a particulate having a melting point above 700C.
7. Composition according to claim 6 wherein the particulate has a melting point of above 75°C.
8. Composition according to claim 5 wherein the fatty ester is a mono-, diester, or mixture thereof.
9. Composition according to claim 5 or 8 wherein the fatty ester is a glyceryl ester.
10. Composition according to any of claims 5, 8 or 9 wherein the fatty ester comprises an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbons.
11. Composition according to claim 5 or 8-10 wherein the fatty ester comprises a stearyl group.
12. Composition according to any preceding claim comprising from 0.1 to 1 % wt. cationic surfactant.
13. Composition according to any preceding claim comprising from 0.03 to
0.07% by weight hydrophobically modified clay and from 0.3 to 0.7% wt. quaternary ammonium surfactant.
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