WO2010029005A2

WO2010029005A2 - Hair preparation comprising spirulina extract

Info

Publication number: WO2010029005A2
Application number: PCT/EP2009/061388
Authority: WO
Inventors: Sabrina Zirwen; Astrid Kleen
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2008-09-11
Filing date: 2009-09-03
Publication date: 2010-03-18
Also published as: DE102008046883A1; WO2010029005A3; JP2012502078A; EP2320868A2

Abstract

The invention relates to a substance for dyeing and/or perming keratin fibers. Said substance is characterized in that it contains at least one dyeing and/or perming component and a blue-green algae extract in a cosmetic carrier.

Description

"Hair Treatment with Spirulina Extract"

The invention relates to an agent for the color and / or permanent change in shape of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, which contains in a cosmetic carrier at least one color and / or shape-changing compound and an extract of a blue-green algae. The blue-green algae are preferably freshwater blue algae, most preferably the genus Spirulina. Furthermore, the invention relates to a method of such agents on keratin-containing fibers. Moreover, the invention relates to the use of the dyeing agent and / or permanent shape change.

The change in shape and color of the hair represents an important area of modern cosmetics. To provide color-changing cosmetic agents, in particular for the skin or keratin fibers such as human hair, the skilled person knows various dyeing systems depending on the requirements of the dyeing. In order to improve the care state of the fibers, it has long been customary to subject the fibers to a special aftertreatment following the color or shape-changing treatment. Recently, so-called combination preparations have also been developed to reduce the burden of the usual multi-stage process, especially in the direct application by consumers. The active substances which can be used in the context of such combination preparations must meet high requirements, in particular with regard to their stability, since the dyeing creams or corrugating agents usually have a high pH and the oxidizing agent preparations have a low pH. Furthermore, incompatibilities of the various active substances with each other and thus a low storage stability should be avoided.

In particular, oxidative hair dyes are disadvantageous for the user despite their advantageous dyeing properties: On the one hand, the use of the oxidizing agent for coloration or development of the actual dyeing leads to damage in the hair structure and on the hair surface. The hair becomes brittle, its elasticity diminishes and the combability decreases. This damage increases with the duration of use. Commercially available oxidative colorants usually have to act on the hair fiber for a period of 30 minutes and longer. The increase in the exposure time leads to an increased impairment of the hair structure. On the other hand, oxidative colorants usually require a basic pH for coloration, in particular between pH 9.0 and pH 10.5. These pH values are necessary to ensure an opening of the outer cuticle (cuticle) and to allow a penetration of the active species (dye precursors and / or hydrogen peroxide) into the hair. However, the basic environment is another cause of damage to the hair and its structure, which is also gaining in importance with increased application time. The spreading of the outer cuticle layer also leads to an unpleasant surface sensation of the hair and thus to a deteriorated combability in the wet and dry state. As a result, there is an increased need for the consumer to provide additional aftertreatment use medium as conditioner. Furthermore, the basic pH is often adjusted with ammonia as an alkalizing agent, since ammonia-containing colorants have additional advantages in terms of dyeing performance. For the user, however, such a colorant has the disadvantage that it may cause irritation of the eyes or scalp in addition to additional damage to the hair by ammonia, which sensitization or even allergic reactions can be caused. In addition, such colorants have an intense, unpleasant odor, which can also lead to irritation of the nasal mucosa in the worst case. In addition, the production and storage of ammonia-containing colorants may be associated with problems in terms of handling and stability.

Last but not least, the hair structure is also affected by external environmental influences. These include mechanical and thermal effects, such as combing and blow-drying. Likewise, weather influences, such as wind, rain and UV radiation in sunlight, and additional external stresses, such as chlorinated swimming pool water or sweat, contribute to damage to the hair structure and the hair surface.

Another disadvantage of the means used hitherto lies in the significant loss of moisture of the fibers and the scalp associated with the treatment, which can cause long-term damage to the fibers and possibly the scalp.

There is therefore still a need for care agents for the color and / or shape-changing treatment of fibers, which further avoid the drying of the fibers and the scalp. The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a color and / or shape-changing agent, by means of which the abovementioned disadvantages of customary color and / or shape-changing agents are lowered. The color and / or shape-changing agents are intended to protect the hair and thus cause a reduced damage to the hair. Just attacked and damaged by external influences hair should experience as little additional damage by staining. In particular, protection against oxidative damage to the hair structure and the hair surface should be achieved by the color and / or shape-changing agents. For this purpose, it is desirable if the color and / or shape-changing agent acts moisture-regulating and / or structuring hair and skin and at the same time improves the result of the color and / or shape-changing treatment in its properties, such as the fastness properties. Nursing properties of the compositions are particularly desirable, so that the user can do without the use of additional conditioning and aftertreatment agents. Furthermore, the agents should as far as possible be used in a physiologically less impairing pH range, in particular in a neutral pH range. Finally, it is desirable to provide color and / or shape-changing agents in which the irritation potential, in particular caused by the addition of ammonia, is as low as possible. In an unpredictable manner, it has now been found that color and / or shape-changing agents which, in addition to a color and / or shape-changing component, contain an extract of blue-green algae avoid the abovementioned disadvantages. Due to the protective effect when using the composition according to the invention, the hair damage can be minimized or even a hair care can be achieved.

A first subject of the invention is therefore an agent for the color and / or permanent change in shape of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one color and / or shape-changing compound and additionally an extract of a blue-green algae.

Under keratinic fibers or keratin fibers are furs, wool, feathers and especially human hair to understand. Although the compositions according to the invention are primarily suitable for dyeing keratin fibers, in principle there is nothing to prevent their use in other fields as well.

The agents according to the invention contain the active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier. For the purposes of the invention, this cosmetic carrier is aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic. For the purpose of hair coloring such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C ₄ -alcohol, based on the total weight of the application mixture, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as 4-methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents. For the purposes of the invention, an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the application mixture.

As an essential ingredient, the agent according to the invention contains an extract of a blue-green algae. Blue algae, also referred to as cyanobacteria, which together with diatoms, green algae, gold algae and dinogellates are reckoned to photoautotrophic plankton, the phytoplankton, are able to synthesize a broader part of the natural light spectrum for photosynthesis due to a particular complex of phycobilins besides chlorophyll to use, which also makes it possible to occur in less dense areas. Due to the different composition of the phycobilin complex with blue (phycocyanin) or red (phycoerythrin) fractions, blue-green algae also appear in reddish, greenish or black forms in addition to the name-giving bluish colorations. Blue algae are Gram-negative and one-to-many-celled. Blue algae occur in both salt and fresh water. Examples of freshwater blue-green algae are the genera Oscillatoria and Spirulina.

Blue-green extracts are rich in proteins, sugars, vitamins and trace elements, especially sodium, potassium, magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, aluminum, copper and iron. Such extracts are suitable for strengthening the hair in its structure, improving the surface and also exerting a positive, revitalizing effect on the scalp. Thus, by using extracts of blue-green algae, it is possible to compensate for hair damage in the hair-dyeing and / or -varnishing step and to maintain the natural moisture content of the hair. When incorporating an extract of blue-green algae into the coloring and / or shape-modifying agents, it is therefore unnecessary to use nourishing aftertreatment agents or conditioners.

Especially preferred within the scope of the present invention are extracts of blue-green algae that occur primarily in fresh water.

With regard to the manner in which the preparation according to the invention is obtained from the blue-green algae constituents, in principle there are no restrictions. Preparations can be used which are obtained by means of mechanical and / or chemical techniques from the blue-green algae. In a substantial step, in a first embodiment, the formulations may be obtained by mechanical separation techniques from the blue-green algae constituents based on the utilization of mechanical forces, such as gravity, centrifugal force, pressure or vacuum. These include, for example, decanting, filtration, sedimentation, ultrafiltration and centrifuging.

In a further embodiment of the present invention, preparations are used which are obtained by means of chemical separation methods, for example an extraction or a chromatographic method, from the blue-green algae constituents. In the context of this embodiment, extracts are particularly preferred. As extraction agent for the preparation of said algae extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Blue-green extracts, which are obtained by means of a water / propylene glycol mixture, have proven to be particularly suitable. It has proven to be particularly suitable if these extractants are used in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1.

Furthermore, it may be preferred according to the invention to use extracts which have been at least partially decolorized before use. This can be done for example by using activated carbon. It is also possible to use in the inventive compositions as a blue-green extract, the aqueous rearing or culture solution of blue-green algae, which also enriched by specific, derived from the algae proteins, sugars, vitamins and trace elements. For this, the blue-green algae are separated from the culture solution by a physical separation method, such as filtration or centrifugation.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition contains an extract of a freshwater blue algae of the genus Spirulina.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the agent for color and / or permanent change in shape of keratinic fibers for further improving the care state of the keratinous fiber additionally contains at least one extract from a plant of the genus Aloe.

In principle, according to the invention, all naturally occurring plants belonging to the genus Aloe can be used. Preferred species include aloe mutabilis, aloe melanocantha, aloe manchii, aloe pearsonii, aloe comptonii, aloe mitriformis, aloe distans, aloe arenicola, aloe volkensii, aloe petrophylla, aloe ferox, aloe africana, aloe globiligemma, aloe perry, aloe viscensii, aloe vera, aloe lettyae, aloe capensis, aloe barbadensis, aloe socetriis, aloe curacao, aloe candelabrum, aloe excelsa, aloe cameronii, aloe sessiliflora, aloe reitzii, aloe aculeate, aloe marlothii, aloe utyhei sensis, aloe dolomitica, aloe castanea, aloe vanlabemii , Aloe alooides, Aloe gerstueri and Aloe petricola.

Particularly preferred according to the invention are preparations which are obtained from Aloe capensis or Aloe barbadensis. Very particularly preferred preparations according to the invention are those which are obtained from Aloe barbadensis, the so-called genuine aloe or else aloe vera.

In principle, there are no restrictions with regard to the type of extract of aloe. Thus, both the leaves and the flowers and seeds of Aloe plants can serve as the basis for this preparation. Preparations which are obtained from the leaves of the Aloe plants have proved to be particularly preferred according to the invention. Also with regard to the manner in which the preparation according to the invention is obtained from the plant constituents, in principle there are no restrictions. For example, the gel contained in the plants can be used directly in the form in which it occurs in violation of the aloe leaves.

However, it is also possible to use preparations which are obtained from the plant by means of mechanical and / or chemical techniques. For this purpose, the plant components can be mechanically comminuted in an optional first step. As examples of mechanical comminution methods are called cutting, pureeing and crushing. In the second essential step, the preparations can then in a first embodiment are obtained by mechanical separation methods from the plant components based on the utilization of mechanical forces, such as gravity, centrifugal force, pressure or vacuum, such as decantation, filtration, sedimentation, ultrafiltration and centrifugation.

In a further embodiment of the present invention, preparations are used which are obtained from the plant constituents by means of chemical separation methods, for example an extraction or a chromatographic method. In the context of this embodiment, extracts are particularly preferred. As extractant for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols, esters and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol have proven to be particularly suitable. It has proven to be particularly suitable if these extractants are used in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1. Among the esters, it may be preferred according to the invention to use esters of short-chain carboxylic acids and short-chain alcohols. These include, for example, ethyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, ethyl propionate. Also advantageously, esters of long-chain, optionally branched fatty acids can be used. Here isopropyl myristate has been found to be particularly suitable. Furthermore, it may be preferred according to the invention to use extracts which have been at least partially decolorized before use. This can be done for example by using activated carbon.

An extract of aloe plants which is particularly preferred according to the invention is an extract obtained from the leaves of aloe barbadensis in isopropyl myristate. Such an extract is sold, for example, under the trade name Aloe Vera extract by the company Worlee, Hamburg. The extract of the aloe is particularly advantageously used at from 0.1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, in each case based on the ready-to-use agent.

The coloring component is preferably selected

(1) from at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or

(2) from oxo dye precursors and / or

(3) from at least one precursor of naturally-colored dyes and / or

(4) from at least one direct dye and / or

(5) at least one natural dye.

In a first embodiment, the color changing components are selected from oxidation dye precursors. The oxidation dye precursors are preferably used in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use oxidation colorant. In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain at least one Oxidizer dye precursor of the developer type and / or coupler type included. Preferably, the colorants of the present invention contain at least one developer type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor. The developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. In the case of substances having amino groups, however, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, in particular in the form of the hydrochlorides and hydrobromides or the sulfates.

In the following, developer components according to the invention are presented in more detail.

Particularly preferred are p-phenylenediamine derivatives. Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamines are selected from one or more compounds of the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6- Dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N- Dipropyl p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) aniline, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis (2-hydroxy) hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-hydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3 -methyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-2-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydrox yethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-acetylaminoethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3- methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, 5,8-diaminobenzo-1, 4-dioxane and their physiologically acceptable salts. Very particularly preferred p-phenylenediamine derivatives according to the invention are selected from at least one compound of the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N , N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, 2-methoxymethyl p-phenylenediamine and the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.

It may further be preferred according to the invention to use as developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.

In particular, preferred binuclear developer components are selected from at least one of the following compounds: N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propane 2-ol, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis [4- (methylamino) phenyl] tetramethylenediamine, N, N'- Diethyl-N, N'-bis (4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, N, N'-bis (4'-amino-phenyl) 1,4-diazacycloheptane, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminobenzyl) piperazine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) - p-phenylenediamine and 1, 10-bis (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecan and their physiologically acceptable salts. Very particularly preferred binuclear developer components are selected from N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2 -hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10 Bis- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.

Furthermore, it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-amino phenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts. Particularly preferred p-aminophenols are p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-ol hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxy-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2 -aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) aminomethyl] phenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2-chlorophenol, 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol and their physiologically acceptable salts. Very particularly preferred compounds are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol.

Further, the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.

Furthermore, the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts.

Particularly preferred pyrimidine derivatives are, in particular, the compounds 2,4,5,6-tetrahydaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4 , 5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triamino-pyrimidine. Particularly preferred pyrazole derivatives are, in particular, the compounds selected from 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 - (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole , 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-t-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1-t-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) -3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3 - Hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5- (2-amino-ethyl) amino-1, 3-dimethylpyrazole, and their physiologically acceptable salts. Among the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidines, mention may be made in particular of: pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; 2,5-dimethyl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; Pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 2,7-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol; 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol; 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol; 2- (7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) ethanol; 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -amino] -ethanol; 2 - [(7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 5,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; 3-amino-7-dimethylamino-2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine; and their physiologically acceptable salts and their tautomeric forms when tautomeric equilibrium is present.

Very particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) -p phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H- imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10-bis- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadic, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4 -Hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and the physiologically acceptable salts di There are connections.

The developer components are preferably used in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use oxidation colorant.

Coupler components do not form a significant color within the framework of the oxidative dyeing alone, but always require the presence of developer components. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention that at least one developer component is additionally used when using at least one coupler component.

Coupler components according to the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This forms a covalent bond between the coupler and the developer component. Couplers are preferably cyclic compounds which carry at least two groups on the cycle, selected from (i) optionally substituted amino groups and / or (ii) hydroxyl groups. When the cyclic compound is a six-membered ring (preferably aromatic), said groups are preferably in ortho position or meta position to each other.

Coupler components according to the invention are preferably selected as at least one compound from one of the following classes: m-aminophenol and / or its derivatives; m-diaminobenzene and / or its derivatives; o-diaminobenzene and / or its derivatives; o-aminophenol derivatives such as o-aminophenol; Naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxyl group; Di- or trihydroxybenzene and / or derivatives thereof; pyridine derivatives; pyrimidine derivatives; Monohydroxyindole derivatives and / or monoaminoindole derivatives; Monohydroxyindoline derivatives and / or monoaminoindoline derivatives; Pyrazolone derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one; Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine; Quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline; Mixtures of two or more compounds from one or more of these classes are also within the scope of this embodiment according to the invention.

Preferred m-aminophenol coupler components are selected from at least one compound selected from the group consisting of m-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6- methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4- methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3-diethylaminophenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-dihydroxy-5-methylaminobenzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol and the physiologically acceptable salts of all the compounds mentioned above. Preferred m-diaminobenzene coupler components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from m-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane , 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} -amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholin-4-ylphenyl) amino] ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-methoxyethoxy) -5-methylphenylamine, 1-amino-3-bis (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene and the physiologically acceptable salts of all the compounds mentioned above. Preferred o-diaminobenzene coupler components are selected from at least one compound selected from the group consisting of 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene and the physiologically acceptable salts of all of the aforementioned compounds. Preferred di- or trihydroxybenzenes and their derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1, 2,4-trihydroxybenzene. Preferred pyridine derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6 -methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6 -dimethoxypyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, 2- (2-methoxyethyl) amino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 2- (4'-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-aminopyridine, and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds. Preferred naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxy group are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1 , 3-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene. Preferred indole derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds. Preferred indoline derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from A-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline and 7-hydroxyindoline and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds. Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2 -Amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino-4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.

Particularly preferred coupler components according to the invention are selected from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2 methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3 Bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-bis) hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] - 2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholin-4-ylphenyl) amino] ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-methoxyethoxy) -5-methylphenylamine, 1-amino-3-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1, 2,4-tri hydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridi n, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline or mixtures of these compounds or the physiological ones acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.

The coupler components are preferably used in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use oxidation colorant.

In this case, developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately molar amounts to each other. Although the molar use has proven to be expedient, a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not disadvantageous, so that developer components and coupler components in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 3, in particular 1: 1 to 1: 2 , can stand. In a further embodiment, oxo dye precursors can also be used as the color-modifying component according to the invention. Oxofarbstoffvorprodukte are preferred as

Combination of at least one compound containing at least one reactive carbonyl group (component

(Oxo1)) with at least one compound (component Oxo2) selected from

(Oxo2a) CH-acidic compounds and / or from

(Oxo2b) Compounds having primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group selected from at least one compound of the group formed from primary or secondary aromatic amines, nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds and aromatic hydroxy compounds.

Reactive carbonyl compounds as component (oxo1) have in the context of the invention at least one carbonyl group as a reactive group which reacts with the component (oxo2) to form a covalent bond. Preferred reactive carbonyl compounds are selected from compounds which carry at least one formyl group and / or at least one keto group, in particular at least one formyl group.

Preferred reactive carbonyl compounds of the component (oxo1) are selected from the group consisting of benzaldehyde and its derivatives, naphthaldehyde and its derivatives, cinnamaldehyde and its derivatives, 2-formylmethylene-1,3,3-trimethylindoline (Fischer's aldehyde or tribasic aldehyde), 2-indolaldehyde, 3-indolaldehyde, 1-methylindole-3-aldehyde, 2-methylindole-3-aldehyde, 2- (1 ', 3', 3'-trimethyl-2-indolinylidene) acetaldehyde, 1-methylpyrrole-2 aldehyde, pyridoxal, antipyrin-4-aldehyde, furfural, 5-nitrofurfural, chromone-3-aldehyde, 3- (5'-nitro-2'-furyl) acrolein, 3- (2'-furyl) acrolein and imidazole. 2-aldehyde, 5- (4-dimethylaminophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-diethylaminophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-methoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5 - (3,4-dimethoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (2,4-dimethoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-piperidino-phenyl) -penta-2,4- dienal, 5- (4-morpholinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-pyrrolidinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-dimethylamino-1-naphthyl) penta-3,5-dienal , Pipero nal, 6-nitropiperonal, 2-nitropi- peronal, 5-nitrovanillin, 2,5-dinitrosalicylaldehyde, 5-bromo-3-nitrosalicylaldehyde, 3-nitro-4-formylbenzenesulfonic acid, salts whose cationic component is 4-formyl-1 -methylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1-methylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-ethylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1-ethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-benzylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1-benzylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1 , 2-dimethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1, 3-dimethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 2-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 5-formyl-1-methylquinoline, 6-formyl-1-methylquinolinium , 7-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 8-formyl-1-methylquinoline, 5-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 6-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 7-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 8-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium , 5-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 6-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 7-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 8-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 5-formyl-1-allylquinolinium, 6-formyl-1-allylquinolinium , 7-formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium or 8-formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium and their anionic benzenesulfonate, p-toluenesulfonate, methanesulfonate, perchlorate, sulfate, chloride, bromide, iodide, tetrachlorozincate, methylsulfate, trifluoromethanesulfonate or tetrafluoroborate, Isatin, 1-methylisatin, 1-allylisatin, 1-hydroxymethylisatin, 5-chloroisatin, 5-methoxyisatin, 5-nitroisatin, 6-nitroisatin, 5-sulfoisatin, 5-carboxyisatin, quinisatin, 1-methylquinisatin, and any mixtures of previous connections.

As CH-acidic compounds are generally considered those compounds which carry a bound to an aliphatic carbon atom hydrogen atom, wherein due to electron-withdrawing substituents, activation of the corresponding carbon-hydrogen bond is effected. In principle, there are no limits to the choice of CH-acidic compounds as long as a compound which is visibly colored visibly to the human eye is obtained after condensation with the reactive carbonyl compounds of the component (oxo1).

The CH-acidic compounds of the oxo dye precursors of the component (oxo2a) are most preferably selected from at least one compound of the group consisting of 2- (2-furoyl) acetonitrile, 2- (5-bromo-2-furoyl) acetonitrile, 3 (2,5-Dimethyl-3-furyl) -3-oxopropanitrile, 2- (2-thenoyl) acetonitrile, 2- (3-thenoyl) acetonitrile, 2- (5-fluoro-2-thenoyl) acetonitrile, 2- 5-chloro-2-thenoyl) acetonitrile, 2- (5-bromo-2-thenoyl) acetonitrile, 2- (5-methyl-2-thenoyl) acetonitrile, 2- (2,5-dimethylpyrrol-3-oyl ) acetonitrile, 2- (1, 2,5-trimethylpyrrol-3-oyl) acetonitrile, 1 / - / - benzimidazol-2-yl-acetonitrile, 1 / - / - benzothiazol-2-ylacetonitrile, 2- (pyrid-2 -yl) acetonitrile, 2,6-bis (cyanomethyl) pyridine, 2- (indole-3-oyl) acetonitrile, 2- (2-methyl-indol-3-oyl) acetonitrile, 2- (6-hydroxy-4 , 7-dimethoxy-1-benzofuran-5-yl) acetonitrile, 1,2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium iodide, 1,2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium p-toluenesulfonate, 1 , 2,3,3-Tetramethyl-3H-indolium methanesulfonate, 2,3-dimethyl-benzothiazolium iodide, 2,3-dime ethylbenzothiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 1,4-dimethylchinolinium iodide, 1,2-dimethylchinolinium iodide, 3-ethyl-2-methylbenzoxazolium iodide, 3-ethyl-2-methylbenzothiazolium iodide, 1-ethyl-4 Methyl-quinolinium iodide, 1-ethyl-2-methylchinolinium iodide, 1, 2,3-trimethylquinoxalinium iodide, 3-ethyl-2-methyl-benzoxazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 3-ethyl-2-methyl-benzothiazolium p-Toluenesulfonate, 1-ethyl-4-methylquinolinium p-toluenesulfonate, 1-ethyl-2-methylquinolinium p-toluenesulfonate, 1,2,3-trimethylquinoxaluminum p-toluenesulfonate, 1-allyl-i, 2-dihydro-3,4 , 6-trimethyl-2-oxopyrimidinium bromide, 1, 2-dihydro-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) -3,4,6-trimethyl-2-oxopyrimidinium p-toluenesulfonate, 1, 2-dihydro-1 , 3,4,6-tetramethyl-2-oxopyrimidinium chloride, 1, 2-dihydro-1, 3-diethyl-4,6-dimethyl-2-oxopyrimidinium chloride, 1, 2-dihydro-1, 3-dipropyl 4,6-dimethyl-2-oxopyrimidinium chloride, 1-allyl-1,2-dihydro-3,4,6-trimethyl-2-oxopyrimidinium hydrogensulfate, 1,2-dihydro-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) -3 , 4,6-trimethyl l-2-oxopyrimidinium bisulphate, 1,2-dihydro-1,3,4,6-tetramethyl-2-oxopyrimidinium bisulphate, 1,2-dihydro-1,3-diethyl-4,6-dimethyl-2-oxo pyrimidinium bisulphate, 1,2-dihydro-1,3-dipropyl-4,6-dimethyl-2-oxopyrimidinium bisulphate, 1,2-dihydro-1,3,4-trimethyl-2-oxopyrimidinium chloride, 1 , 2-Dihydro-1, 3,4-trimethyl-2-oxopyrimidinium bisulphate, 1, 2-dihydro-1,3-diethyl-4-methyl-2-oxopyrimidinium chloride, 1,2-dihydro 1, 3-diethyl-4-methyl-2-oxo-pyrimidinium bisulfate, 1, 2-dihydro-1, 3-dipropyl-4-methyl-2-oxo-pyrimidinium chloride, 1, 2-dihydro-1, 3 -dipropyl-4-methyl-2-oxopyridminium hydrogensulfate, 1,2-dihydro-1,3,4,6-tetramethyl-2-thioxopyrimidinium chloride, 1,2-dihydro-1,3-diethyl 4,6-dimethyl-2-thioxopyrimidinium chloride, 1,2-dihydro-1,3-dipropyl-4,6-dimethyl-2-thioxopyrimidinium chloride, 1,2-dihydro-1,3,4 , 6-tetramethyl-2-thioxopyrimidinium Hydrogen sulfate, 1, 2-dihydro-1,3-dipropyl-4,6-dimethyl-2-thioxopyrimidinium bisulfate, 1, 2

Dihydro-1, 3,4-trimethyl-2-thioxopyrimidinium chloride, 1, 2-dihydro-1, 3,4-trimethyl-2-thioxopyrimidinium bisulphate, 1,2-dihydro-1,3-diethyl-4 Methyl-2-thioxopyrimidinium chloride, 1, 2-di-hydro-1, 3-diethyl-4-methyl-2-thioxopyrimidinium hydrogen sulfate, 1, 2-dihydro-1, 3-dipropyl-4-methyl-2-thioxopyrimidinium chloride and 1, 2-dihydro-1,3-dipropyl-4-methyl-2-thioxopyrimidinium bisulfate.

Furthermore, as component (Oxo2b) at least one oxidation dye precursor having at least one primary or secondary amino group and / or at least one hydroxyl group can be used. Preferred suitable representatives are found under the execution of the oxidation dye precursors. However, it is preferred according to the invention if the compounds of the component (oxo2) are selected only among CH-acidic compounds.

The above-mentioned compounds of the component (Oxo1) and the component (Oxo2) are, when used, each preferably in an amount of 0.03 to 65 mmol, in particular from 1 to 40 mmol, based on 100 g of the total composition , used.

Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention may contain as color-changing component at least one substantive dye. These are dyes that raise directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. The substantive dyes are each preferably used in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. The total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 20% by weight. Direct dyes can be subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.

Particularly suitable anionic direct dyes are FD & C Yellow No. Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 73, Acid Orange 3, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Pigment Red 57: 1, FD & C Red no. 4 Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Violet 9, Acid Violet 43, Acid Brown 13, Acid Blue. Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Black no. 1 and bromophenol blue. Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1 and Acid Black 52 known compounds. As cationic substantive dyes are especially Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7,

Basic Blue 8, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41, Basic Blue 99, Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, Basic Brown 4, Basic Brown 16, 1 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) 2-naphthol chloride, Basic Brown 17, Basic Orange 69, Basic Red 2, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 2, Basic Yellow 1 1, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Green 1, Basic Green 4, 1- ( 2-morpholiniumpropylamino) -4-hydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone methylsulfate, 1 - [(3- (dimethylpropylaminium) -propyl) amino] -4-methylamino-9,10-anthraquinone chloride and direct dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom. Preferred cationic substantive dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as they are mentioned for example in EP-A2-998 908. The compounds known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes. The cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ^®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.

Suitable nonionic substantive dyes are in particular nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes. Suitable blue nitro dyes are, in particular, 1,4-bis - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 6, HC Blue 9, HC Blue 10, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, HC Blue 13, HC Violet 1, HC Violet 2, 1- (2-aminoethylamino) -4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene, 4- (di- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino) -2- nitro-1-phenylaminobenzol. Suitable red nitro dyes are, in particular, HC Red 7, 2-amino-4,6-dinitrophenol and salts thereof, 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, 1-amino-4 - [(2 hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, HC Red 3, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) methylamino] -1- (methylamino) -2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4 - [(2,3 -dihydroxypropyl) amino] -5-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (methylamino) -2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitro-1 - [(prop-2-ene-1 yl) amino] benzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrophenol, HC Orange 1, HC Orange 2, HC Orange 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11 , 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid, 2 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino] benzoic acid, 2-chloro-6-ethylamino 4-nitrophenol, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitro-phenol, HC Red BN, 2,5-diamino-6-nitropyridine, 6-amino-3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitropyridine , 3-Amino-6 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitropyridine, 3-amino-6- (ethylamino) -2-nitropyridine, 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -6- (methylamino) 2-nitropyridine, 3 -Amino-6- (methylamino) -2-nitropyridine, 6- (ethylamino) -3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitropyridine, 1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-6-nitroquinoxaline, HC Red Suitable yellow nitro dyes are, in particular, 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene, HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, 2- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrophenol, 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1-methoxy-5-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-3-nitrophenol, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1-amino-2-methyl-6-nitrobenzene, 1- (2-Hydroxyethoxy) -3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 2,3- (dihydroxypropoxy) - 3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, HC Yellow 9, HC Yellow 10, HC Yellow 11, 1 - [(2'-ureidoethyl) amino] -4-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino ] -5-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, HC Yellow 12, HC Yellow 13, HC Yellow 14, HC Yellow 15, 3- [ (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methyl-1-nitrobenzene, 4-chloro-3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1-nitrobenzene. Suitable quinone dyes are in particular: 1,4-di - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone, Disperse Blue 23, Disperse Blue 3, HC Orange 5, Disperse Red 15, 1-hydroxy-4- [(4-methyl-2-sulfophenyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone, Natural Red 4, HC Blue 8, HC Red 8, Disperse Red 11, Disperse Blue 7, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, 2-Hydroxy 3-methoxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone, 2,5-dihydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, 2-hydroxy-3-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, HC Red 9, HC Green 1, Natural Brown 7, Natural Orange 6, 1, 2-dihydro-2- (1,3-dihydro-3-oxo-2H-indol-2-ylidene) -3H-indol-3-one, 4 - {{5 - [(2-hydroxyethyl ) amino] -1-methyl-1H-pyrazol-4-yl} imino} -4,5-dihydro-5 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) imino] -1-methyl-1H-pyrazole sulfate (1: 1 ), Hydrate (1: 1). Suitable neutral azo dyes are in particular: Disperse Red 17, Disperse Black 9, HC Yellow 7, Disperse Yellow 3, Disperse Orange 3.

Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are those referred to as HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds, as well as 1, 4- Diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2- Hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene , 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino] benzoic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3, 4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrop henol.

Furthermore, natural dyes can also be used as substantive dyes. As natural dyes in the context of the invention are dyes to be understood, which are obtained from parts of plants. For the purposes of the invention it is furthermore not necessary for natural dyes that the agents obtained from the plant parts represent dyes as such, but that they optionally also represent dye precursors which form the actual dye by subsequent chemical reactions. Mentioned here in particular the oxidation with atmospheric oxygen to form the chromophore. In particular, the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain at least one natural dye selected from the group comprising diaryloylmethane dyes, naphthoquinone dyes, flavonoid dyes, anthraquinone dyes, betalain dyes, gallotannin dyes and indigoid dyes. Particularly preferred natural dyes according to the present invention are those obtained from a plant selected from the group consisting of Indigofera tinctoria, Curcuma longa, Lawsonia inermis, Chamomilla recutita, Quercus robur, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rheum undulatum and Beta vulgaris. The natural dyes are each preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the entire application preparation used. The total amount of natural dyes is preferably at most 20% by weight.

In a further embodiment of the present invention, the color-modifying component is selected from dye precursors of naturally-analogous dyes. The dyestuff precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably indoles and indolines which have at least two groups selected from hydroxy and / or amino groups, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group. In a further embodiment, the colorants contain at least one indole and / or indoline derivative. Compositions according to the invention which comprise precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably used as air-oxidative colorants. Consequently, in this embodiment said compositions are not added with an additional oxidizing agent. The dye precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are each preferably used in an amount of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation. The total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 3% by weight.

Preferred derivatives of indoline are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6- dihydroxyindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, especially the 5,6-dihydroxyindoline. Preferred derivatives of indole are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole , 5,6-Dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, especially the 5,6-dihydroxyindole.

It is not necessary for oxidation dye precursors, oxo dye precursors, substantive dyes or naturally-analogous dyes to be each one of the same compounds. Rather, due to the production process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts, other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing or for other reasons, eg. As toxicological, must be excluded.

In the case of oxidative dyeings, the development of the color can in principle be done with atmospheric oxygen. Preferably, however, a chemical oxidizing agent is used, especially if, in addition to the coloring, a lightening effect on human hair is desired. This lightening effect may be desired regardless of the staining method. Suitable oxidizing agents are persulfates, peroxodisulfates, chlorites, hypochlorites and, in particular, hydrogen peroxide or its addition products of urea, melamine and sodium borate.

Hydrogen peroxide is preferably used as oxidizing agent. The amount of hydrogen peroxide in the ready-to-use agent is preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.8 to 6% by weight, in each case based on the ready-to-use agent. Such oxidizer formulations are preferably aqueous, flowable oxidizer formulations. Preferred preparations are characterized in that the flowable oxidizing agent preparation - based on their weight - 40 to 90 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 85 wt .-%, particularly preferably 55 to 80 wt .-%, more preferably 60 to 77, 5 wt .-% and in particular 65 to 75 wt .-% water.

According to the invention, however, the oxidation colorant can be applied to the hair together with a catalyst which inhibits the oxidation of the dye precursors, e.g. by atmospheric oxygen, activated. Such catalysts are z. For example, certain enzymes, iodides, quinones or metal ions.

Suitable enzymes are z. As peroxidases, which can significantly increase the effect of small amounts of hydrogen peroxide. Particularly suitable catalysts for the oxidation of the dye precursors are the so-called 2-electron oxidoreductases in combination with the specific substrates, for. Pyranose oxidase, glucose oxidase, glycerol oxidase, pyruvate oxidase, alcohol oxidase, lactate oxidase, tyrosinase oxidase and tyrosine, uricase, choline oxidase, amino acid oxidase.

Use of certain metal ions or complexes may also be preferred to obtain intense colorations. Suitable metal ions are, for example, Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Mn ⁴⁺ , Li ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ , Ce ⁴⁺ , V ³⁺ , Co ²⁺ , Ru ³⁺ and Al ³⁺ , especially Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ²⁺ . Particularly preferred agents contain these metal ions to 0.0001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The actual hair dye is expediently prepared immediately before use by mixing the preparation of the oxidizing agent with the preparation containing the dye precursors and the active compounds according to the invention. The resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range of 6 to 12. Particularly preferred is the use of the hair dye in a weakly alkaline medium. The application temperatures can be in a range between 15 and 40 ⁰ C. After a contact time of 5 to 45 minutes, the hair dye is removed by rinsing of the hair to be dyed. The washing with a shampoo is omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, such as a dyeing shampoo was used.

In addition, the compositions according to the invention may also contain blonding and / or bleaching agents and thus be provided as agents which simultaneously have a coloring and lightening effect. Such agents will hereinafter be referred to as "colorants", as "whitening colorants" or as "colorants and whiteners".

For the strong lightening of very dark hair is the sole use of hydrogen peroxide or its addition products to organic or inorganic compounds often not enough. In these cases, a combination of hydrogen peroxide and persulfates or peroxodisulfates is usually used, resulting in an increase in the brightening power of the agents. Therefore, should the consumer feel the desire for a very strong bleaching, in a further embodiment, it may be preferred if the colorant according to the invention additionally contains at least one inorganic persulfate salt or peroxodisulfate salt in the agent for lightening the keratinic fibers. Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate. The peroxodisulfate salts may be contained in an amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular in an amount of from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent. The use of persulfate salts or peroxodisulfate salts is generally carried out in the form of an optionally dedusted powder or a molding pressed into the mold.

If additional oxidizing agents are used, the actual coloring and / or brightening agent is expediently prepared immediately before use by mixing a preparation according to the invention comprising at least one oxidation dye precursor in a cosmetic carrier and a preparation containing the additional oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide , The agent according to the invention may contain a blue-green algae extract in the preparation with oxidation dye precursors and / or in the oxidizing agent preparation. The preparation with oxidation dye precursors preferably contains the blue-green algae extract.

If a strong lightening is desired, it is preferred according to the invention if, in addition, a bleaching preparation containing at least one inorganic persulfate salt or peroxodisulfate salt is added to the oxidizing agent preparation before mixing with the dyeing preparation according to the invention.

Furthermore, it has proven to be advantageous if the oxidizing agent preparations contain at least one stabilizer or complexing agent. Particularly preferred stabilizers are phenacetin, alkali benzoates (sodium benzoate) and salicylic acid.

Customary and preferred chelating agents in the context of the present invention are, for example, polyoxycarboxylic acids, polyamines, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and hydroxyethanediphosphonic acids or their alkali metal salts. Complex-forming polymers, ie polymers which carry functional groups either in the main chain themselves or in the side thereof, which can act as ligands and generally react with suitable metal atoms to form chelate complexes, can be used according to the invention. Preferred complexing agents according to the invention are nitrogen-containing polycarboxylic acids, in particular EDTA, and phosphonates, preferably hydroxyalkane or aminoalkanophosphonates and in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonate (HEDP) or its di- or tetrasodium salt and / or ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate (EDTMP) or . whose Hexasodium salt and / or Diethylentriaminpentamethylenphosphonat (DTPMP) or its

Hepta or octa sodium salt.

The preparation of the colorant according to the invention is subject in principle no restrictions. Usually, the agents according to the invention are formulated as 1-component agents, which are optionally mixed with a second preparation containing, for example, an oxidizing agent immediately before use. However, it has also proven to be preferred in some cases when the product is formulated as a 2-component agent. Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, the means according to the invention are therefore made up in such a way that one of the components essential to the invention is packaged separately. According to the invention, it does not initially matter which of the three components according to the invention is packaged separately; however, it may be preferable to separately package the preparation (B) containing blue-green leaf extract until use.

The oxidizing agent preparation contains besides the actual oxidizing agent further auxiliaries and additives. Thus, it has proved to be preferred according to the invention if the oxidizing agent preparation contains at least one thickener. With regard to these thickeners, there are no fundamental restrictions. Both organic and purely inorganic thickening agents can be used.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the thickener is an anionic, synthetic polymer such as Aculyn ^® 33; Aculyn ^® 22: Structure ^® Structure ^® 2001 and 3001 or Stabileze® ^® QM.

In a second embodiment, the thickener is a cationic synthetic polymer such as Polyquaternium-37.

In a third preferred embodiment, naturally occurring thickening agents are used. Preferred thickening agents of this embodiment are for example nonionic, modified and unmodified guar gums, Biosaccharidgums microbial origin, dextrins, cellulose derivatives (such as Cellosize ^®, Natrosol ^®, Blanose ^®, Aquasorb ^®, amber gum ^® and Cellgon ^®; from Montello). Starch and its derivatives are also preferred.

(BASF Luviskol ^®) marketed but also nonionic, fully synthetic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinyl pyrrolidinone, are as thickening agents according to the invention can be used. Such nonionic polymers, in addition to their excellent thickening properties, also allow a significant improvement in the sensory feeling of the resulting preparations.

As inorganic thickeners, phyllosilicates (polymeric, crystalline sodium disilicates) have proven to be particularly suitable in the context of the present invention. Especially Clays, in particular magnesium aluminum silicates, such as bentonite, especially

Smectites such as montmorillonite or hectorite, which may optionally be modified also suitable, and synthetic layered silicates, such as the chemical sold by the company Süd under the trademark Optigel ^® magnesium phyllosilicate are preferred.

The preparation of the colorant according to the invention is subject in principle no restrictions. Usually, the agents according to the invention are formulated as 1-component agents, which are optionally mixed with a second preparation containing, for example, an oxidizing agent immediately before use. However, it has also proven to be preferred in some cases when the product is formulated as a 2-component agent. Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, the means according to the invention are therefore made up in such a way that one of the components essential to the invention is packaged separately.

Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are permanently shape-changing agents. These agents usually consist of two or three preparations, which are successively applied to the fibers. The following terms are used below:

"Waving agent" for the aqueous preparation of the keratin-reducing substance,

"Intermediate rinse" for the first rinse and

"Fixer" for the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent.

Although the blue-green algae extract according to the invention can in principle be used in any of the aforementioned preparations, it has proven to be particularly preferred according to the invention if it is contained in the corrugating medium.

The corrugating agents according to the invention necessarily contain at least one keratin-reducing substance as a shape-changing component, preferably mercaptans. Such compounds are, for example, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and its salts and esters, cysteamine, cysteine, Bunte salts and salts of sulfurous acid. Preferably suitable as shape-changing components are the alkali metal or ammonium salts of thioglycolic acid and / or thiolactic acid and the free acids. These are preferably used in the waving agents in concentrations of from 0.5 to 1.0 mol / kg at a pH of from 5 to 12, in particular from 7 to 9.5. To adjust this pH, the corrugating agents according to the invention usually contain alkalizing agents such as ammonia, alkali metal and ammonium carbonates and bicarbonates or organic amines such as monoethanolamine.

Furthermore, the Wellothen invention may contain components that enhance the power, such as

Heterocyclic compounds such as imidazole, pyrrolidine, piperidine, dioxolane, dioxane, morpholine and piperazine and derivatives of these compounds. Further preferred according to the invention Imidazole derivatives are biotin, hydantoin and benzimidazole. This is very particularly preferred

Imidazole.

• Amino acids such as in particular arginine, citrulline, histidine, ornithine and lysine.

Diols such as 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, neopentyl glycol and ethylene glycol. 1, 3-diols, especially 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol and 1, 3-butanediol, have been found to be particularly suitable.

For more information on such Wellkraftverstärkenden components reference is made to the publications DE-OS 44 36 065 and EP-B1-363 057, the contents of which reference is expressly made.

The wellenverstärverstärkenden compounds may be present in the corrugated lotions according to the invention in amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total wave lotion. Amounts of 1 to 4 wt .-%, in the case of the diols of 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, have been found to be sufficient, which is why these amounts are particularly preferred.

Mandatory component of the fixing agents according to the invention are oxidizing agents, for. As sodium bromate, potassium bromate, hydrogen peroxide, and the stabilizers customary for stabilizing aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparations. The pH of such aqueous H ₂ O ₂ preparations, which usually contain about 0.5 to 15% by weight, usually about 0.5 to 3% by weight, of H ₂ O ₂ , is preferably included 2 to 6, in particular 2 to 4; it is adjusted by inorganic acids, preferably phosphoric acid. Bromate-based fixatives are usually used in concentrations of from 1 to 10% by weight and the pH of the solutions is adjusted to 4 to 7. Likewise suitable are enzymatic-based fixatives (for example peroxidases) which contain no or only small amounts of oxidizing agents, in particular H ₂ O ₂ .

The corrugating agents or fixing agents according to the invention are usually formulated in a single phase, including by this term are systems which have a continuous phase, such as, for example, pure oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions.

It has been found that two-phase and multi-phase systems according to the invention are also preferred. These are systems where there are at least two separate, continuous phases. Examples of such systems are preparations which have the following phases:

An aqueous phase and a nonaqueous phase which are separate from each other

• one aqueous phase and two non-aqueous, immiscible phases, each of which is separate

An oil-in-water emulsion and a non-aqueous phase separated therefrom

A water-in-oil emulsion and an aqueous phase separated therefrom. According to preferred means for changing the color and shape of the hair are characterized in that they have a pH as neutral as possible. Another preferred embodiment of the present invention is that the ready-to-use agent has a pH between 4.0 and 9.0, preferably between 5.0 and 8.5, particularly preferably between 6.0 and 8.0. The pH values for the purposes of the present invention are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ^° C.

Usually, the pH is adjusted with pH adjusters. In order to adjust the pH, those skilled in the art are familiar with common acidifying and alkalizing agents. The alkalizing agents which can be used for adjusting the pH are typically selected from inorganic salts, in particular the alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, in particular amines, basic amino acids and alkanolamines, and ammonia. Acidifying agents which are preferred according to the invention are pleasure acids, such as, for example, citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, and also dilute mineral acids. Particularly preferred alkalizing agents according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, 2-aminoethane-1-ol, 1-amino-2-propanol. ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol. Very particular preference is given to 2-aminoethane-1-ol, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.

A preferred embodiment of the present invention is characterized in that the agent is low in ammonia, preferably free of ammonia. The terms "low ammonia" and "ammonia-free" in the context of the invention refer to the amount of ammonia added to the agent, the addition of ammonia take place both as an aqueous, alcoholic, aqueous-alcoholic or other solution and by ammonia gas or by the addition of liquefied ammonia can. However, the addition of ammonia can also be effected by using ammonium salts, the ammonium cation being in equilibrium with its corresponding base, the ammonia itself, depending on the pH of the preparation. The terms "free of ammonia" or "low in ammonia" in the context of the invention therefore also refer to agents which contain ammonium salts in the corresponding amounts.

Preferred, low-ammonia agents contain less than 2 wt .-%, in particular less than 0.5 wt .-% and most preferably less than 0.1 wt .-% of added ammonia, each based on the total weight of the application preparation. Ammonia-free in the context of the invention are those agents to which no ammonia has been added by one of the methods described above. Such agents are most preferred.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the agents additionally contain at least one further active substance which synergistically improves the care properties of the agents. This active substance is preferably selected from the group which is formed from d) amino acids, oligopeptides and protein hydrolysates; c2) silicone derivatives; c3)

Polyphenols and c4) (pseudo) ceramides.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one further active ingredient selected from the group consisting of amino acids, oligopeptides and protein hydrolysates. For the purposes of the invention, the term "active ingredient" refers to amino acids themselves and their oligomers and polymers linked via peptical bonds, in particular oligopeptides and protein hydrolysates. An amino acid in the context of the invention is an organic compound which carries in its structure at least one protonatable amino group and at least one carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid group. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular α-aminocarboxylic acids and ω-amino-carboxylic acids, α-aminocarboxylic acids being preferred.

Amino acids, oligopeptides and protein hydrolyzates usually contain asymmetric centers in their structure, in particular carbon atoms as chiral centers. In the context of the present invention, it is possible to use amino acids, oligopeptides and / or protein hydrolyzates as chiral pure substances or else as mixtures of enantiomers and / or diastereomers. In particular, racemic mixtures, ie mixtures in which both enantiomers of a compound are contained in equal proportions, may be preferred. In nature, an enantiomeric form usually predominates. It may therefore also be preferred to use amino acids, oligopeptides and / or protein hydrolysates in their naturally occurring or even in their unnatural chiral configuration.

Oligopeptides are available either from natural sources or through targeted synthesis. The person skilled in the art knows these methods and will know how to select the suitable one as needed. A particularly preferred oligopeptide is the dimer of serine itself (Ser-Ser), especially L-serine, and threonine and serine (Thr-Ser and / or Ser-Thr).

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used. The proteins are broken down by hydrolysis of peptic bonds into low molecular weight fractions. In this case, both alkaline, acidic or enzymatic hydrolysis methods can be used, which provide structurally different hydrolysates and are applied to the requirements of the hydrolysates. The person skilled in these methods are familiar.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks keratin DEC ^® (Vincience) Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co) distributed Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda). Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Depending on the preparation or recovery process, oligopeptides and protein hydrolysates can be present as mixtures of different components with different numbers of peptic bonds, different amino acid sequences and different molecular weights and can be used in the agents according to the invention.

It may be advantageous according to the invention to use mixtures of amino acids, oligopeptides and / or protein hydrolysates which are obtained either as a mixture by the production process or by specific combination of different protein derivatives, for example the combination of several amino acids. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, amino acids are used as predominant pure substances.

Particularly advantageous color-changing agents according to the invention comprise as additional active ingredient at least one amino acid which is selected from L-serine, D-serine, D / L-serine (racemat), L-homoserine, D-homoserine, D / L-homoserine , L-threonine, D-threonine, D / L-threonine, A-hydroxy-proline, 5-hydroxy-lysine, L-arginine, D-arginine, D / L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D / L-lysine, L-ornithine, D-ornithine, D / L-ornithine, L-histidine, D-histidine and D / L-histidine and / or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Very particularly preferred according to the invention is L-serine.

The amino acids, oligopeptides and / or protein hydrolysates may preferably be added to the compositions according to the invention in free form. In a number of cases, however, it is also advantageous to use in particular the amino acids in salt form. Preferred salts are then the compounds with hydrohalic acids or sulfuric acid, in particular the hydrochlorides, the hydrobromides and the sulfates.

The active ingredient of at least one amino acid, an oligopeptide or a protein hydrolyzate is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the application mixture, contain.

The silicone derivatives c2), when present in the agents according to the invention, are preferably present in amounts of from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, in each case to the ready-to-use agent.

More preferably, the silicones c2) are selected from at least one member of the list formed from:

(i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;

(ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; (per) fluorinated groups; thiol; carboxylate groups; hydroxylated groups; alkoxylated groups; acyloxyalkyl; amphoteric groups; bisulphite; hydroxyacylamino groups; carboxy; Sulfonic acid groups; and sulfate or thiosulfate groups;

(iii) linear polysiloxane (A) polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers of the (AB) _{n type} with n>3;

(iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;

(v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone-containing organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer containing no silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends , such as the commercial product Abil B 8832 from Degussa marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone;

(vi) or mixtures thereof.

Of course, mixtures of the above-mentioned silicones may also be present in the preferred agents according to the invention. Cationic silicone oils are suitable according to the invention, for example the commercially available Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is referred to as amodimethicone), DC 2-2078 (Dow Corning, INCI name: Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone), DC 5 7113 (Dow Corning, INCI name: Silicone Quaternium 16), SM-2059 (General Electric), SLM-55067 (Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80.). Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one aminofunctional silicone, which is referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicone according to the INCI declaration and is obtainable, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone). Also preferred are compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone which, according to the INCI declaration, is known as amodimethicones or as functionalized amodimethicones, for example bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone (for example DC 8500, Dow Corning), trideceth- 9 PG amido-methicones (for example Silcare Silicone SEA, Clariant). Cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferred according to the invention are characterized in that from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on their weight, of amino-functional ( s) silicone (s), in each case based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agents. The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention. Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products marketed under the trade name SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and Dow Corning (Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193).

Polyphenols c3) are generally compounds which contain more than two phenol (polyol) or phenolic ether groups belonging to different substance classes. The polyphenols are preferably selected from at least one member of the group formed from: c3-1) hydroxycinnamic acids, c3-2) 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, c3-3) hydroxybenzoic acids, c3-4) catechins, c3-5) Leucoanthocyanidins, c3-6) anthocyanidins, c3-7) flavanones and c3-8) flavones and c3-9) flavonols.

In nature, free and etherified polyphenols occur, for example, in floral dyes (anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acylpolyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives. Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechins, usnic acid, and as tannins the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid. Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechols, that is, the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, that is, the derivatives of leucoanthocyanidins, preferably in the 5,7,3 ', 4', 5'-position phenolic hydroxy groups carry, preferably epicatechin and epigallocatechin, and the resulting by self-condensation tannins. Such tannins are preferably not used in isolated pure substance, but as extracts of tanning-rich plant parts, eg. Extracts of catechu, quebracho and oak bark as well as other tree bark, leaves of green tea and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins.

As ceramides c4), the sphingolipids are preferably used. According to the invention, preferred compounds according to the invention are the compounds ceramides I, ceramides II, ceramides 1, ceramides 2, ceramides 3, ceramides 5 and ceramides 6 known under the INCI names as the active ingredient. Mixtures of the compounds of formula (VI) are particularly preferably used, which are obtainable for example under the trade name of SK-Influx ^® and Ceramide IM (Degussa Care Specialties), and the commercial product Ceramide TIC-001 (Takasago Int. Corp.) , The compounds of the formula (VI) are preferably used in an amount of from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, based on the weight of the ready-to-use cosmetic product. In addition, pseodoceramides, in particular the pseudoceramide N- (C ₈ -C ₂₂ -acyl) - (C ₈ -C ₂₂ -acyl) hydroxyproline (such as, for example, the cetyl-hydroxyproline palmitamide according to the product Sym Repair 153884 from Symrise), are pseudoceramides c4 according to the invention ). The ready-to-use colorants preferably comprise free-flowing preparations. The free-flowing preparations additionally contain as surface-active substance an emulsifier or a surfactant, surface-active substances being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers, depending on the field of application, and anionic, cationic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers are selected.

Furthermore, the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers, anionic polymers; hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins and silicone oils; Perfume oils, cyclodextrins; fiber structure improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; Defoamers such as silicones, preferably dimethicone; Dyes and pigments for staining the agent; Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole; Light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines; Active substances such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinonecarboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol; Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, in particular those of groups A, B ₃ , B ₅ , B ₆ , C, E, F and H; Plants extra kte; Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers; Fats and waxes such as beeswax, montan wax and paraffins; Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate; Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air; Antioxidants.

The choice of these other substances will be made by those skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the agents. With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publisher, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the agent is prepared immediately before use by mixing at least two preparations, wherein the at least two preparations are provided in at least two separate prefabricated containers and wherein a container is a colorant, which in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one blue-green algae extract, preferably from the genus Spirulina, and having a pH of between 5.0 and 8.5, preferably between 6.0 and 8.0, and another container containing an oxidizing agent preparation containing at least an oxidizing agent. A second subject of the present invention is a process for the color and / or permanent change in shape of keratinic fibers, in which an agent according to the invention is applied to the hair according to the above specifications, for an exposure time of 2 to 45 minutes, preferably 15 to 30 minutes the hair is left, and then the hair is rinsed out.

A further preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention for color-changing keratinous fibers is when a composition in a cosmetic carrier comprising at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one blue-green algae extract, preferably from the genus Spirulina, mixed with an oxidizing agent preparation containing hydrogen peroxide to form a homogeneous composition, This is applied to the hair, is left on the hair for a contact time of 2 to 45 minutes, preferably 15 to 30 minutes, and then the hair is rinsed. The application temperatures for the inventive color change of keratinic fibers may be in a range between 15 and 45 ⁰ C. After a period of exposure, the hair dye is removed by rinsing the hair to be dyed. The washing with a shampoo can be omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, eg. As a dyeing shampoo was used.

A further preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention for permanently modifying keratinous fibers is when a composition in a cosmetic carrier containing at least one keratin-reducing substance and at least one blue-green algae extract, preferably from the genus Spirulina, is applied to the hair for a contact time from 2 to 45 minutes, preferably from 15 to 30 minutes is left on the hair, and then optionally the hair is rinsed out. Subsequently, a fixing agent containing at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide, and preferably additionally at least one stabilizer or complexing agent, applied to the hair, left on the hair for a contact time of 2 to 45 minutes, preferably 15 to 30 minutes, and then the Hair is rinsed out. The application temperatures in the permanent change in shape of keratinic fibers according to the invention can be in a range between 15 and 45 ^° C. After an exposure time, the fixative is removed by rinsing off the hair. The washing with a shampoo can be omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used. With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, mutatis mutandis the statements made concerning the agents according to the invention apply.

As already mentioned, the compositions according to the invention can also be prepared directly before use from two or more separately packaged preparations. This is particularly useful for the separation of incompatible ingredients to avoid premature reaction. Separation into multicomponent systems is particularly suitable where incompatibilities of the ingredients are to be expected or to be feared. The ready-to-use agent in such systems is blended by the consumer just prior to application made of components. A dyeing and / or whitening agent in which the oxidation dye precursors are initially present separately from the oxidizing agent preparation, preferably containing hydrogen peroxide, is preferred.

A fourth subject of the present invention is therefore a multicomponent packaging unit (kit-of-parts) containing at least two separately assembled containers, wherein a container at least one container a color and / or shape-changing compound, and at least one blue-green algae extract, preferably from Genus spirulina ,, and a container containing an oxidizing agent composition containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide

A preferred embodiment of this subject matter of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) containing at least two separate prefabricated containers, one container comprising a coloring mixture in a cosmetic carrier containing at least one coloring component, in particular at least one oxidation dye precursor, at least one Blue-green algae extract, preferably from the genus Spirulina, and a container containing an oxidizing agent composition containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide. If a particularly strong whitening action is desired by using persulfate salts or peroxodisulfate salts, it is preferred according to the invention, that of the multicomponent packaging unit according to the invention (kit-of-parts) in the form of an optionally dedusted powder or a shaped article pressed in the form of an additional, separately packaged component to add.

A further preferred embodiment of the subject of the invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) comprising at least two separate prefabricated containers, one container comprising a shape-change mixture in a cosmetic carrier comprising at least one shape-modifying component and at least one blue-green algae extract, preferably from the genus Spirulina, and a container an oxidizer composition, containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide.

The multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) preferably additionally contains an instruction manual. In addition, it may be preferred if an application aid, such as a comb or a brush, and / or personal protective equipment, such as disposable gloves, are also included in the kit. With regard to further preferred embodiments of the multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts), what has been said about the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Another object of the invention is the use of the means of the first subject of the invention for improving the gloss of the hair in the color and / or permanent change in shape of human hair. Another object of the invention is the use of ung the means of the first subject of the invention for improving the moisture content of the hair in the color and / or permanent change in shape of human hair. Another object of the invention is the use of the means of the first subject of the invention for simultaneous protection against damage in the hair structure and on the hair surface in the color and / or permanent shape change of human hair. Another object of the invention is finally the use of the means of the first subject of the invention for the color and / or permanent change in shape of human hair with reduced damage to the hair. With regard to further preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention, mutatis mutandis, the statements made with regard to the agents according to the invention apply.

The following examples are intended to illustrate preferred embodiments of the invention without, however, limiting it.

B e i s p e e l e

A coloring cream of the invention was prepared from the following ingredients:

^* Color powder mixture of different oxidation dye precursors

¹ Eau Vitale ^® d'Algue Bleue Spirulina Blue Algae Extract (INCI name: Water, Plankton extract, Phenoxyethanol) (Soliance)

² Emulgade ^® FC ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol; ethoxylated castor oil (40 EO); C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ -FeH alcohol sulphate, sodium salt (INCI name: cetearyl alcohol, PEG-40 castor oil, sodium cetearyl sulphate) (Cognis)

The dyeing cream was mixed in a weight ratio of 1: 1 with a developer dispersion composed as follows. The mixing pH was 7.2.

¹ Genamin ^® STAC trimethylstearylammonium chloride (INCI name: Steartrimonium Chloride) (Clariant)

² Eumulgin ^® B 2 C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol ethoxylated (20 EO) (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (Cognis)

For staining of human strands (code: Kerling ENH 10/0 or Kerling ENH 6/0) of approx. 0.7 g each weight, 4 times the amount of the finished application mixture was applied. After the strands were dyed for 20 minutes at 32 ⁰ C, they were washed with a commercial shampoo and dried with a hair dryer.

Claims

Patent claims

1. means for color and / or permanent change in shape of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one color and / or shape-changing compound, characterized in that it additionally contains an extract of a blue-green algae.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract of blue-green algae is an extract of a freshwater blue algae of the genus Spirulina.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one extract from a plant of the genus Aloe.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the farbve renderde component is selected,

(1) from at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or

(2) from oxo dye precursors and / or

(3) from at least one direct dye and / or

(4) from at least one precursor of naturally-colored dyes and / or

(5) at least one natural dye.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one active ingredient which is selected from the group consisting of d) amino acids, oligopeptides and protein hydrolysates, c2) silicone derivatives, c3) polyphenols and c4 ) (Pseudo) ceramides.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one active ingredient which is selected from the group consisting of amino acids, oligopeptides and protein hydrolysates.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one active ingredient which is selected from L-serine, D-serine, D / L-serine, L-homoserine, D-homoserine, D / L-homoserine, L-threonine, D-threonine, D / L-threonine, A-hydroxy-proline, 5-hydroxy-lysine, L-arginine, D-arginine, D / L-arginine, L-lysine, D - Lysine, D / L Lysine, L-ornithine, D-ornithine, D / L-ornithine, L-histidine, D-histidine and D / L-histidine and / or one of their physiologically acceptable salts.

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the ready-to-use agent has a pH between 4.0 and 9.0, preferably between 5.0 and 8.5, particularly preferably between 6.0 and 8, 0 owns.

A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it additionally contains an alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.

10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the agent is low in ammonia, preferably free of ammonia.

11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that is prepared immediately before use by mixing at least two preparations, wherein the at least two preparations are provided in at least two separate prefabricated containers and wherein a container is a colorant (a), which contains in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidation dye precursor and an extract from a blue-green algae and has a pH of between 5.0 and 8.5, preferably between 6.0 and 8.0, and another container contains an oxidizing agent preparation (b) containing at least one oxidizing agent.

12. A method for the treatment of human hair, wherein an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1 is applied to the hair, is left on the hair for an exposure time of 2 to 45 minutes, preferably 15 to 30 minutes, and then the Hair is rinsed out.

13. Use of an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for improving the shine of the hair in the color and / or permanent change in shape of human hair.

14. Use of an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for improving the moisture content of the hair in the color and / or permanent change in shape of human hair.

15. Kit-of-Parts containing at least two separate prefabricated containers, wherein a container contains a color and / or shape-changing compound according to any one of claims 1 to 10 and a container containing an oxidizing agent composition containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide ,