WO2010009954A1 - Agents coiffants conférant aux cheveux de grandes qualités de fixation et de douceur - Google Patents

Agents coiffants conférant aux cheveux de grandes qualités de fixation et de douceur Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010009954A1
WO2010009954A1 PCT/EP2009/058107 EP2009058107W WO2010009954A1 WO 2010009954 A1 WO2010009954 A1 WO 2010009954A1 EP 2009058107 W EP2009058107 W EP 2009058107W WO 2010009954 A1 WO2010009954 A1 WO 2010009954A1
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formula
copolymer
copolymers
group
composition according
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PCT/EP2009/058107
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Thorsten Knappe
Helga Flodrop Van
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to means for the temporary deformation of keratinous fibers, comprising a combination of polymers with other specific ingredients, the use of these means for the temporary deformation of keratinous fibers and a corresponding method.
  • keratinic fibers in principle, all animal hair, e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them.
  • animal hair e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them.
  • the keratinic fibers are human hairs.
  • Corresponding temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. In particular, however, hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.
  • the most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, also referred to below as styling agent is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent.
  • the hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of the synthetic polymer used, but also an influence of the other constituents of the styling agent may be given.
  • styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broadly subdivided into properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, eg properties of the foam, of the gel or of the sprayed aerosol, and of properties which affect the handling of the styling agent, whereby the properties on the hair are of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tackiness and a balanced conditioning effect.
  • a styling agent should be universally applicable as possible for all hair types. Often, a high degree of retention is undesirably accompanied by a high brittleness of the hairstyle.
  • the treated with the appropriate styling hair are rigid, brittle and act unnaturally firm. As a result, they feel rough and unkempt.
  • the polymer film which leave the means when applied to the hair in the cases mentioned inflexible so that it breaks under stress. This leads to the formation of so-called Filmpiaken, ie residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would dandruff.
  • Object of the present invention was therefore to provide a means for temporary deformation of keratinous fibers available, which is characterized by a very high degree of hold without the need for flexibility and a neat hair feel and pleasant product feel.
  • a first subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier a) at least one copolymer A which contains at least one structural unit according to formula (I)
  • R 1 is -H or -CH 3 and R 2 is -H or -CH 3 or -CH 2 CH 3 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 or -CH (CH 3 ) 2
  • at least one further of structural unit ( I) contains different structural unit according to formula (II) in which R 1 and R 2, independently of one another, are -CH 3 or -CH 2 CH 3 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 or -CH (CH 3 ) 2 and R 3 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon radical, and b ) at least one silicone oil and / or silicone gum.
  • compositions according to the invention contain as the first compulsory component a polymer which is made up of at least two different monomers of the formulas (I) and (II). In addition, other monomers may be copolymerized.
  • the first monomer contained in the copolymer A can be represented by the formula (I)
  • R 1 is -H or -CH 3 and R 2 is -H or -CH 3 or -CH 2 CH 3 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 or -CH (CH 3 ) 2 .
  • Very particularly preferred monomers of the formula (I) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate, propyl acrylate, propyl methacrylate, isopropyl acrylate and isopropyl methacrylate.
  • agents according to the invention comprise acrylic acid or acrylic ester as monomer unit in the copolymer A.
  • Such agents are characterized in that the copolymer A contains structural units of the formula (Ia)
  • R is -H or -CH 3 or -CH 2 CH 3 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 or -CH (CH 3 ) 2 .
  • the other monomer contained in the copolymer A can be represented by the formula (II)
  • R1 and R2 of one another represent -CH 3 or -CH 2 CH 3 or - are CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 or -CH (CH 3) 2, and R3 represents a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain hydrocarbon radical.
  • R 3 is in each case a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon radical.
  • agents according to the invention which contain copolymer (e) A with molecular weights of from 10 to 750 kDa, preferably from 25 to 500 kDa, more preferably from 30 to 400 kDa and in particular from 4 to 250 kDa.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, contain from 0.1 to 10% by weight. %, preferably 0.5 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 5 wt .-% copolymer (s) A contain.
  • the monomers of the formulas (I) and (II) are contained within certain limits in the copolymer A.
  • preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain copolymer (e) A which contains 10 to 95 mol% (preferably 15 to 85 mol% and in particular 20 to 80 mol%) of monomers of the formula (I) and 5 to 90 mol% (preferably 7.5 to 80 mol% and especially 10 to 60 mol%) of monomers of the formula (II).
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one silicone oil and / or silicone gum.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one silicone, preferably a silicone, selected from:
  • polyalkyl siloxanes polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
  • grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone onto which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends ; or their mixtures.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise the silicone (s) preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight. , in each case based on the total mean.
  • Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are, in particular, dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and their alkoxylated, quaternized or anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypoly-dimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.
  • Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine.
  • the term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. Initially, these are understood to mean the dimethiconols (S1). These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S1-I):
  • Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S1-II):
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, A
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1,000 D and 10000000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 0 C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are from 1000 to 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
  • Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Speciales), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 H
  • Dimethicones form the second group of silicones which may be present according to the invention. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2-I):
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • R 1 and R 2 Radicals include alkyl radicals such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropy
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 0 C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. Most preferably, the viscosity is in the range between 50,000 and 200,000 cps.
  • Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of silicones that are suitable. Dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the following structural formulas:
  • Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-IM):
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halogenated hydrocarbon radicals, such as 3-chloropropyl,
  • PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical.
  • Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 0 C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
  • Corresponding dimethicone copolyols are commercially available and are sold, for example, by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning® 5330 Fluid.
  • the teaching according to the invention also encompasses the fact that the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolymers can already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols from these and the conventional methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles is according to the invention 0.01 to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 .mu.m, more preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0 , 01 to 10 ⁇ m.
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
  • branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs randomly due to impurities of the respective monomers.
  • branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the degree of branching is calculated from the ratio of the unbranched monomers to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes, certainly.
  • both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred.
  • Suitable silicones are furthermore amino-functional silicones (S4), in particular the silicones which are grouped under the INCI name amodimethicones. These are silicones which have at least one, optionally substituted, amino group.
  • Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (S4-I)
  • R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbyl radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms
  • Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1 Z wherein R 1 is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms , Carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group; "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, “b” assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, “a” + “b” is less than or equal to 3, and "c” is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and
  • Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, A-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, as well as sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercapto
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, - CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, - C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group.
  • a possible formula for Z is NH (CH 2 ) Z NH 2 , where z is an integer from 1 to 50.
  • Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH 2 ) Z NH (CH 2 ) zz , in which both z and zz independently of one another represent an integer from 1 to 50, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl.
  • Z is particularly preferably a -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical.
  • Z is -N (CH 2 ) Z NX 1 X 2 or -NX 1 X 2 , wherein each of X 1 and X 2 is independently selected from hydrogen and a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms.
  • Q is a polar, amine-functional radical of the formula -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • the molar ratio of R 3 Q b SiO (. 4 a - b) / 2 units to the R 0 SiO (4 _ C) / 2 units is in the range of about 1: 2 to 1: 65, preferably from about From 1: 5 to about 1:65 and more preferably from about 1:15 to about 1: 20.
  • the various variable substituents in the above formula may be used for the various silicone components described in U.S. Pat Silicone blend exist, be different.
  • Preferred amino-functional silicones correspond to the formula (S4 - II)
  • G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 ,
  • a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
  • b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
  • n and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
  • R ' is a monovalent radical selected from -N (R ") - CH 2 -CH 2 - N (R") 2, -N (R ") 2, -
  • each R" for the same or different radicals from the group -H, - phenyl, benzyl, the C-
  • a ' represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.
  • Particularly preferred amino-functional silicones correspond to the formula (S4 - III)
  • silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
  • R is -OH, -O-CH 3 or a -CH 3 group and m
  • n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • silicones are referred to as amodimethicone according to the INCI nomenclature and are available for example in the form of an emulsion as a commercial product Dow Corning ® 949 in a mixture with a cationic and a nonionic surfactant.
  • those amino-functional silicones are used which have an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and especially preferably above 0.4 meq / g.
  • the amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.
  • oligomeric polydimethylcyclosiloxanes (INCI name: cyclomethicone), in particular the tetrameric and pentameric compounds sold as commercial products DC 245 Fluid, DC 344 and DC 345, respectively, by Dow Corning,
  • Hexamethyldisiloxane (INCI name: hexamethyldisiloxane), eg. B. the product sold under the name Abil ® K 520,
  • the agent according to the invention comprises at least two different silicone derivatives, more preferably a combination of a volatile and a nonvolatile silicone.
  • Volatile in the context of the invention are those silicones which have a volatility which is equal to or greater than the volatility of the cyclic, pentameric dimethylsiloxane.
  • Such combinations are also available as commercial products (eg, Dow Corning® 1401, Dow Corning® 1403, and Dow Corning® 1501, each containing mixtures of a cyclomethicone and a dimethiconol).
  • Preferred mixtures of different silicones are, for example, dimethicones and dimethiconols, linear dimethicones and cyclic dimethiconols.
  • a very particularly preferred mixture of silicones consists of at least one cyclic dimethiconol and / or dimethicone, at least one further non-cyclic dimethicone and / or dimethiconol and at least one amino-functional silicone.
  • the mixing ratio is largely variable. However, all the silicones used for mixing are preferably used in a ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5 in the case of a binary mixture. A ratio of 3: 1 to 1: 3 is particularly preferred. Very particularly preferred mixtures contain all the silicones contained in the mixture largely in a ratio of about 1: 1, in each case based on the amounts used in wt .-%.
  • Particularly preferred silicones are described below. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-I
  • Preferred silicones according to invention have at 2O 0 C to viscosities of 0.2 to 2 mmV 1, wherein silicones having viscosities of 0.5 to 1 mmV 1 are particularly preferred.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones.
  • Such silicones may e.g. through the formula
  • R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms
  • Q is a polar group of the general Formula -R 1 HZ is wherein R 1 is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group; "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, “b” assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, “a” + “b” is less than or equal to 3, and "c” is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and
  • Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, A-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl,
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, - CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group.
  • a possible formula for Z is NH (CH 2 ) Z NH 2 , wherein z is 1 or more.
  • Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl.
  • Z is most preferably a -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical.
  • Z is - N (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NX 2 or -NX 2 , wherein each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
  • Q is most preferably a polar, amine functional group of the formula CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2
  • "b” assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3
  • "a” + “b” is less than or equal to 3
  • the molar ratio of the R 3 Q b SiO (4. a - b) / 2 units to the R 0 SiO (4 _ c y 2 units is in the range of from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20.
  • the various variables Substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-II)
  • G is H, phenyl, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -O- CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -O-CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -OC (CH 3 ) 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 ; a is a number between O and 3, in particular O; b is a number between O and 1, in particular 1, m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where
  • R ' is a monovalent radical selected from -QN (R ") - CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R") 2 , -QN (R ") 2 , -Q-N + (R") 3 A " , -QN + H (R ") 2 A “ , -QN + H 2 (R ") A “ , -QN (R ”) - CH 2 -CH 2 -N + R” H 2 A " , where each Q is for a chemical bond, -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -C (CH 2 ) 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 C ( CHs) 2 -, -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 2 -, R "is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 - CH (CH 3 ) Ph, the Ci
  • A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIa)
  • agents according to the invention which are an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIb)
  • agents according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g, are preferred ,
  • the amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 5 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) included.
  • agents according to the invention which contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-III
  • x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 30 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6.
  • the silicones described above have a backbone composed of -Si-O-Si units.
  • these Si-O-Si units may also be interrupted by carbon chains.
  • Appropriate molecules are accessible by chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions.
  • agents according to the invention preferably comprise as a further ingredient a film-forming polymer.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.1 to 25% by weight of at least one film former.
  • Particularly preferred film formers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are described below.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one further copolymer B which contains at least one structural unit of the formula (B-I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (B-II),
  • R is a C 1 to C 30 alkyl group, a C 1 to C 4 aralkyl group, a C 2 to C 6 alkenyl group or a C 2 to C 6 hydroxyalkyl group, and
  • n 1, 2 or 3 as the number of methylene units.
  • Film-forming and / or consolidating copolymers B are known. These copolymers have at least one structural unit of the formula (B-I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (B-II) and may moreover comprise further structural units which are copolymerized by the addition of corresponding monomers during the polymerization.
  • Preferred groups R are, for example, -CH 3 ; -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , CH (CH 3 ) 2 , - (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 ,
  • X represents a physiologically acceptable anion, preferred anions are chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfate, methosulfate, ethyl sulfate, tosylate and tetrafluoroborate.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as copolymer B a copolymer B1 which contains at least one structural unit of the formula (BI) and at least one structural unit of the formula (B-II),
  • R is a methyl group
  • X ' is methosulfate and n is 1 methylene units.
  • Very particularly preferred copolymers B1 comprise 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% of structural units of the formula (BI) and 70 to 90 mol%, preferably 75 to 85 mol. % and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units according to formula (B-II).
  • the copolymers B1 in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of the above-mentioned structural units of the formula (BI) and (B-II) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, Contain polymer units, which are due to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • the copolymers B1 are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (B-I) and (B-II) and can be represented by the general formula
  • indices m and n vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are necessarily block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formula (BI) and of the formula (B-II) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.
  • Such N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are for example available under the trade names Luviquat ® Ultra Care from BASF.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain a copolymer B1 which has molecular weights within a certain range.
  • the copolymer B1 has a molecular weight of from 50 to 400 kDa, preferably from 100 to 300 kDa, more preferably from 150 to 250 kDa and in particular from 190 to 210 kDa.
  • the compositions according to the invention may also contain copolymers B2 which have structural units of the formula (B-II) in which n is the number 3 as additional structural units.
  • the copolymers B2 in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (BI) and (B-II) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-% , Contain polymer units due to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • the copolymers B2 are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (BI) and (B-II) and can be represented by the general formula
  • N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam copolymers are referred to as Polyquaternium-46, according to INCI nomenclature and are obtainable for example under the trade name Luviquat Hold ® from BASF.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain a copolymer B2 which has molar masses within a certain range.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer B2 has a molecular weight of 100 to 1000 kDa, preferably from 250 to 900 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 850 kDa and in particular from 650 to 710 kDa.
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers B3 which have structural units of the formula (B-II) as additional structural units, in which n represents the Number 3 is and further Di Modelltechniken from the group of vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of acrylamide and / or methacrylamide units.
  • copolymer B contains as copolymer B a copolymer B3 which has at least one structural unit of the formula (BI) and at least one structural unit of the formula (B-II) and at least one structural unit of the formula (B-III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (B-IV),
  • the copolymers B3 in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (BI), (B-II), (B-III) and (B-IV) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 Wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • the copolymers B3 are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (BI), (B-II), (B-III) and (B-IV) and can be represented by the general formula
  • Such N-Methylvinylimidazol ⁇ / inylpyrrolidon / vinylimidazole / methacrylamide copolymers as Polyquaternium-68, according to INCI nomenclature and are obtainable for example under the trade name Luviquat ® Supreme by BASF.
  • Very particularly preferred copolymers B3 contain 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol% and in particular 6 mol% of structural units of the formula (BI) and 45 to 65 mol%, preferably 50 to 60 mol.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention comprise a copolymer B3 which has molecular weights within a certain range.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer B3 has a molecular weight of from 100 to 500 kDa, preferably from 150 to 400 kDa, more preferably from 250 to 350 kDa and in particular from 290 to 310 kDa.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred in which the total amount of copolymers B, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, from 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-%, is.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred in which the total amount of copolymers B, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-%, is.
  • compositions of the invention may contain further film-forming polymers C from the group of acrylate polymers, i. the polymers containing at least one monomer unit from the group of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and / or esters thereof.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention comprise at least one acrylate polymer C selected from d) polyacrylic acid and / or c2) copolymers of methacrylic acid with acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and / or c3) copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid and acrylic esters and / or c4) copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid with acrylic esters and methacrylic acid esters and / or c5) copolymers of acrylic acid esters with methacrylic acid.
  • agents according to the invention which contain polyacrylic acid as polymer C are preferred. This has structural units of the formula
  • agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as polymer d, polyacrylic acids having a molecular weight of from 10 to 250 kDa, preferably from 25 to 200 kDa, more preferably from 50 to 150 kDa and in particular from 70 to 100 kDa.
  • the polymers d are used within certain ranges.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-% polymer (e ) d.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain polymers c2 from the group of copolymers of methacrylic acid with acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid. These can be explained by the general formula
  • indices m and n vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are necessarily block copolymers. Rather, structural units can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain copolymer c2 copolymers of methacrylic acid with acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid having a molecular weight of 100 to 2500 kDa, preferably from 250 to 2000 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 1750 kDa and in particular from 800 to 1500 kDa ,
  • copolymers c2 are preferably used within certain quantitative ranges.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-% copolymer (e ) b2 included.
  • Copolymers of methacrylic acid and acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid for example, under the trade name Fixomer ® A-30 (Nalco) available.
  • polymer (s) d and / or the copolymer (s) c2 or at its point or the means of the invention may also contain polymers c3 from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid and acrylic acid esters.
  • R1 is -H or -CH 3.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain copolymer c3 copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid and acrylic acid esters having a molecular weight of 50 to 500 kDa, preferably 100 to 400 kDa, more preferably 150 to 300 kDa and especially 200 to 250 kDa , contain.
  • the copolymers c3 are preferably used within certain quantitative ranges.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-% copolymer (e ) c3.
  • a very particularly preferred copolymer c3 is referred to as INCI nomenclature as acrylate copolymer.
  • Such a polymer is available for example under the trade name Aculyn ® 33A (Rohm & Haas).
  • compositions according to the invention can also polymers c4 from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid and ethoxylated acrylic acid esters and ethoxylated methacrylic acid esters.
  • R 1 is a methyl group
  • the radical R is a hydrocarbon radical having one to 22 C atoms
  • x is from 1 to 50.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain copolymer c4 copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid and ethoxylated acrylic acid esters and ethoxylated methacrylic acid esters having a molecular weight of 100 to 500 kDa, preferably from 150 to 400 kDa, more preferably from 200 to 300 kDa, and especially from 225 to 275 kDa.
  • copolymers c4 are preferably used within certain quantitative ranges.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-% copolymer (e ) c4.
  • An especially preferred copolymer c4 has 25 EO units, is esterified with behenyl alcohol and is designated according to the INCI nomenclature as acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer.
  • Such a polymer is, for example, under the trade name Aculyn ® 28 (Rohm & Haas).
  • the agents according to the invention may also be used Containing polymers c5 from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid esters with methacrylic acid.
  • Preferred acrylic acid esters are methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate, with the latter being particularly preferred.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain copolymer c5 copolymers of acrylic acid esters with methacrylic acid having a molecular weight of 100 to 500 kDa, preferably from 150 to 400 kDa, more preferably from 200 to 300 kDa and especially from 225 to 275 kDa ,
  • copolymers c5 are preferably used within certain quantitative ranges.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-% copolymer (e ) c5.
  • a very particularly preferred copolymer c5 is derived from the polymerization of methacrylic acid with ethyl acrylate and is referred to as an acrylate copolymer according to the INCI nomenclature. Such a polymer is available, for example under the trade name Luviflex® ® Soft (BASF).
  • Very particularly preferred agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain a copolymer D of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate.
  • Copolymers D are preferably used which contain from 10 to 80 mol%, preferably from 20 to 70 mol%, particularly preferably from 30 to 60 mol% and in particular from 40 to 50 mol% of methacrylic acid and from 20 to 90 mol% , preferably 30 to 80 mol .-%, particularly preferably 40 to 70 mol .-% and in particular 50 to 60 mol .-% ethyl acrylate.
  • the copolymer D has a molecular weight of 100 to 800 kDa, preferably from 200 to 700 kDa, more preferably from 300 to 600 kDa and in particular from 450 to 550 kDa.
  • Particularly preferred composition of the invention contains the copolymer from BASF AG under the name Luviflex® ® Soft (INCI name: acrylates copolymer) is sold.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred in which the total amount of copolymers C and D, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-%, is.
  • the present invention is not subject to any restrictions. Both only one polymer and in each case a plurality of polymers from the individual classes described can be used. Particularly preferred agents contain, in addition to the invention compulsorily used copolymer A and the necessarily present at least one silicone
  • agents according to the invention in which the weight ratio of polymer (s) B to polymer (s) C is 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 8: 1 to 1: 8, more preferably 5: 1 to 1: 5 and in particular 4: 1 to 1: 4. Regardless of the type and weight ratio of the polymers to one another, agents according to the invention are furthermore preferred in which the total polymer content (B + C + D) of the compositions is 1 to 15% by weight, preferably 2.5 to 12.5% by weight. , more preferably 4 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 8 wt .-% is.
  • compositions of the invention may contain further film-forming polymers E from the group of acrylate polymers, i. the polymers containing at least one monomer unit from the group of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and / or esters thereof.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention comprise at least one copolymer E formed from at least one monomer e1 selected from acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, and at least one monomer e2 selected from acrylamide and / or methacrylamide and at least one monomer e3 selected from N-substituted acrylamides and / or methacrylamides ,
  • This copolymer E comprises at least one monomer e1 selected from acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, and at least one monomer e2 selected from acrylamide and / or methacrylamide and at least one monomer e3 selected from N-substituted acrylamides and / or methacrylamides and may further comprise further structural units , which are copolymerized by the addition of appropriate monomers in the polymerization.
  • Particularly preferred copolymers A are copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide and N-substituted acrylamides; Acrylic acid and methacrylamide and N-substituted acrylamides; Methacrylic acid and acrylamide and N-substituted acrylamides; Methacrylic acid and methacrylamide and N-substituted acrylamides and / or methacrylamides; Acrylic acid and acrylamide and N-substituted methacrylamides; Acrylic acid and methacrylamide and N-substituted methacrylamides; Methacrylic acid and acrylamide and N-substituted methacrylamides; Methacrylic acid and methacrylamide and N-substituted methacrylamides.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as copolymer E, a copolymer E1 which comprises, as monomer e1, acrylic acid.
  • a preferred monomer is the acrylamide. Accordingly, preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as copolymer E, a copolymer E1 which comprises acrylamide as monomer e2.
  • N-substitution on the N-substituted acrylamides may be by simple alkali groups (preferably methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isoporphyl), but particularly preferred are substituted alkyl groups bearing anionic functionalities. Very particular preference is given to sulfonate-containing substituents.
  • An agent particularly preferred according to the invention is characterized in that it contains, as copolymer E, a copolymer E1 which comprises acryloyldimethyltaurate as monomer e3.
  • copolymers E1 can be defined by the general formula
  • indices m, n and o vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are necessarily block copolymers. Rather, structural units can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the copolymer E1 has a molecular weight of from 50 to 500 kDa, preferably from 100 to 450 kDa, more preferably from 150 to 400 kDa and in particular from 200 to 300 kDa.
  • the copolymers E are used within certain ranges.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred in which the total amount of copolymers E, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-% is.
  • Copolymers of acrylamide with Methacrylic acid and acryloyldimethyltaurate are available for example under the trade name Acudyne ® SCP (Rohm & Haas).
  • compositions according to the invention may contain further film-forming polymers F.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention comprise at least one copolymer F selected from f1) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC) and / or f2) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and / or f3) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and alkyldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium salts.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which contain, as polymer F, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC) (b1).
  • indices m and n vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are necessarily block copolymers. Rather, structural units can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as cationic polymer f1, copolymers of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC) with vinylpyrrolidone, which contain 40 to 95 mol%, preferably 42.5 to 90 mol%, more preferably 45 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 50 to 80 mol .-% vinylpyrrolidone.
  • MATERC methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride
  • copolymers f1 have molecular weights of from 10 to 1000 kDa, preferably from 25 to 900 kDa, more preferably from 50 to 800 kDa and in particular from 100 to 750 kDa.
  • the copolymers f1 are preferably used within certain quantitative ranges.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-% copolymer (e ) f1 included.
  • a very particularly preferred copolymer f1 is designated as Polyquaternium-28 according to the INCI nomenclature. Such a polymer is available, for example under the trade name Gafquat ® HS-100 (ISP).
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain polymers f2 from the group of copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate.
  • indices m and n vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are necessarily block copolymers. Rather, structural units can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as cationic polymer f2, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate containing 40 to 95 mol%, preferably 42.5 to 90 mol%, more preferably 45 to 85 mol% and in particular 50 to 80 mol .-% vinylpyrrolidone.
  • copolymers f2 have molar masses of from 100 to 2500 kDa, preferably from 250 to 2000 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 1750 kDa and in particular from 800 to 1500 kDa.
  • the copolymers f2 be used within certain ranges.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-% copolymer (e ) f2 included.
  • a most preferred copolymer f2 is referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-11. Such a polymer is available for example under the trade name Gafquat ® 755 N (ISP).
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain polymers f3 from the group of copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and alkyldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium salts.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic polymer f3 copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium salts.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are further characterized in that they contain as the cationic polymer f3 copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and Alkyldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammoniumsalzen which 40 to 95 mol .-%, preferably 42.5 to 90 mol .-%, more preferably 45 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 50 to 80 mol .-% vinylpyrrolidone.
  • Very particularly preferred agents according to the invention are furthermore characterized in that the copolymers have f3 molecular weights of from 10 to 1000 kDa, preferably from 25 to 900 kDa, more preferably from 50 to 800 kDa and in particular from 100 to 750 kDa.
  • the copolymers f3 are preferably used within certain quantitative ranges.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-% copolymer (e ) f3 included.
  • a very particularly preferred copolymer f3 is designated according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-55. Such a polymer is available, for example under the trade name Styleze® ® W20 (ISP).
  • agents according to the invention are furthermore preferred in which the total polymer content of the agents is 1 to 15% by weight, preferably 2.5 to 12.5% by weight preferably 4 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 8 wt .-% is.
  • compositions of the invention contain the ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total agent.
  • alcohols it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol.
  • Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane.
  • particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol, butylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30 wt .-% based on the total agent.
  • the agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 11.
  • the pH range between 4 and 9 is particularly preferred.
  • the pH values in the context of this document refer to the pH at 25 ° C., unless stated otherwise.
  • compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to the respective cosmetic products.
  • auxiliaries and additives are care substances. These are used both in skin and hair treatment application and can be incorporated with a suitable choice of the care substance, for example in creams, shampoos, hair conditioners, hair treatments, gels, pump and aerosol sprays and show m.
  • an agent according to the invention may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 Da Ito n.
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • the protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.
  • Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and amidoamines type are preferred according to the invention.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and those known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83 imidazolium compounds.
  • esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • the products Armocare ® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80 and Dehyquart ® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.
  • the cationic surfactants are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Nurturing polymers are also suitable as a care substance. It should be noted at this point that some nourishing polymers also have film-forming and / or setting properties, and may therefore also be mentioned in the list of suitable film-forming and / or setting polymers.
  • a first group of caring polymers are the cationic polymers.
  • Cationic polymers are polymers which are in the main and / or side chain have a group which may be "temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • “permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • such polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group over a Ci. 4- hydrocarbon group are bonded to a constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives polymer backbone have been found to be particularly suitable.
  • R 1 -H or -CH 3
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C-
  • m 1, 2, 3 or 4
  • n is a natural number
  • X ' is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the in formula (G1 -I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers.
  • those are preferred according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R 1 is a methyl group, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups, m is 2.
  • Suitable physiologically tolerable counterions X " include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions, preference being given to halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (meth acryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
  • the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, more Components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) available in the stores.
  • Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (G1-I) contain, as nonionic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C-. 4- alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C- ⁇ - 4 -alkyl ester. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ® SC.
  • cationic polymers are for example quaternised CeIIu lose-derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially.
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ® guar and Jaguar ® products,
  • Quaternary group polysiloxanes such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones), SM -2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt.), diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80), polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.
  • Q2-7224 manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone
  • Dow Corning® 929 emulsion containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred
  • Merquat ® 100 Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)
  • Merquat ® 550 dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer
  • cationic polymers quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as by the names of Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.
  • Further cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.
  • Hydagen CMF ® Hydagen CMF ®
  • Hydagen HCMF ® Hydagen HCMF ®
  • Kytamer ® PC Chitolam ® NB / 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the caring, cationic and / or amphoteric polymers in an amount of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, in particular in an amount of from 0.1 to 2% by weight, in each case based on the total application preparation.
  • Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally care substance (s) - in terms of their weight - in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%, with preferred care substance (s) are selected from the group L-carnitine and / or its salts; Panthenol and / or panthothenic acid; the 2-furanones and / or their derivatives (especially pantolactone); Taurine and / or its salts; niacinamide; ubiquinone; Ectoin; Allantoin.
  • preferred care substance (s) are selected from the group L-carnitine and / or its salts; Panthenol and / or panthothenic acid; the 2-furanones and / or their derivatives (especially pantolactone); Taurine and / or its salts; n
  • L-carnitine (IUPAC name (R) - (3-carboxy-2-hydroxypropyl) -N, N, N-trimethylammonium hydroxide) is a naturally occurring, vitamin-like substance.
  • L-carnitine derivatives which are preferred according to the invention are selected in particular from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and particularly preferably L-carnitine tartrate.
  • the L-carnitine compounds mentioned are available, for example, from Lonza GmbH (Wuppertal, Germany).
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain from -0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight and in particular 0.05% by weight contain up to 2.5 wt .-% L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives, with preferred L-carnitine derivatives are selected from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and in particular L-carnitine tartrate.
  • Panthenol (ILJPAC name: (+) - (R) -2,4-dihydroxy-N- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide) is converted to pantothenic acid in the body.
  • Pantothenic acid is a vitamin from the group of B vitamins (vitamin B5).
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain -0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on their weight. % and in particular 0.25 to 1 wt .-% of panthenol (( ⁇ ) - 2,4-dihydroxy- ⁇ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide).
  • Preferred care enhancer which has activating properties is taurine.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention contain - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).
  • compositions of the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 3.5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or ProVitamine and / or vitamin precursors, which are preferably assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin B 5 2,4,4-dihydroxy- ⁇ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide, provitamin B 5 ) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B 3 , vitamin B 5 ) and / or niacin, Niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B 3 ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B 1 ) and / or riboflavin (vitamin B 2 , vitamin G) and / or biotin (vitamin B 7 , vitamin H) and / or folic acid (vitamin B 9 , vitamin B c or vitamin M) and / or vitamin B 6 and / or vitamin B 12 included.
  • Certain quinones have particular suitability as a care enhancer.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% containing at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, preferred agents containing a ubiquinone of the formula (Ubi)
  • n 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, particularly preferably 10 (coenzyme Q10).
  • the agents according to the invention may contain ectoin.
  • Ectoine ((4S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylic acid) is a natural product belonging to the group of compatible solutes.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides.
  • preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention characterized in that they are used as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4 wt. -%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular Containing 0.75 to 2.5 wt .-% carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides, preferred carbohydrates are selected from
  • Monosaccharides in particular D-ribose and / or D-xylose and / or L-arabinose and / or D-glucose and / or D-mannose and / or D-galactose and / or D-fructose and / or sorbose and / or L-fucose and / or L-rhamnose
  • Disaccharides in particular sucrose and / or maltose and / or lactose and / or trehalose and / or cellobiose and / or gentiobiose and / or isomaltose.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F).
  • Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-shaped distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid with the expenditure of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and of animal tissue (Zoosterine) as well as vegetable fats (phytosterols) are isolated. Examples for
  • Zoosterins are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate
  • Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium,
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the agent according to the invention may be necessary for them to further contain at least one surfactant. This is especially true for skin cleansers and shampoos. But other means, such as hair rinses, hair treatments and certain styling agents, in particular styling foams, may contain surfactants.
  • cationic surfactants can be used, as described above as suitable care agents. With respect to the preferred cationic surfactants and the amounts used, the above statements apply accordingly.
  • the agents may contain other surfactants or emulsifiers, with both anionic and ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and all types of known emulsifiers being suitable in principle.
  • the group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. The surfactants may already have emulsifying effect.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps),
  • Sulfobernsteinklamono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefinsulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • Condensation products of C 8 - C 30 - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ® - types Gluadin ® - types Hostapon ® KCG or Amisoft ® - types.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettkladensate.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO () or -SO 3 () group.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamido
  • Ampholytes are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 -acylsarcosine.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ® LS, Dehydol ® LT types (Cognis), C 12 -C 30 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol, Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
  • Polyol fatty acid esters such as the commercial product Hydagen ® HSP (Cognis) or
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • the index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and represents a number between 1 and 10.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be from primary alcohols with 4 to
  • the preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants. These connections are identified by the following parameters.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • the other surfactants are generally in amounts of 0.1 to 45 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 30 wt .-% and most preferably from 0.5 to 25 wt .-%, based on the respective total Composition, used.
  • the amount used depends essentially on the purpose of the agent according to the invention. If it is a shampoo or other cleansing agent, surfactant levels above 45% by weight are also common.
  • compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for cosmetic products, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the skin or hair as facial or hair tonic or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes , Gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations which are suitable for use on the skin or hair.
  • the agents of the invention are means for temporarily deforming keratinic fibers, i. for styling center I.
  • Preferred styling agents are styling gels, pump hair sprays, aerosol hair spray, pumped hair foams and aerosol hair foams.
  • Styling gel is in the context of the present application, the generic term for clear or cloudy products, styling waxes, styling creams, styling lotions, styling jellies, etc. Ultimately, this term covers all means for hairdressing hair, which are not hair sprays or foams.
  • Hair foams are understood to mean compositions which form a foam when they are removed from a suitable container. It may be necessary to add ingredients to the compositions which promote foaming or stabilize lather once formed.
  • surfactants and / or emulsifiers are suitable for this, as have already been described above.
  • surfactants from the group of cationic surfactants are used.
  • Hair creams and gels generally contain structurants and / or thickening polymers which serve to give the products the desired consistency.
  • Structurants and / or thickening polymers are typically used in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total product. Amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-% are preferred.
  • the polymer combination used according to the invention has self-thickening properties, the addition of further structural and / or thickening polymers is not absolutely necessary.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain no further structuring agents and / or thickening polymers. If the agents according to the invention are aerosol products, this necessarily contains a propellant.
  • Propellants suitable according to the invention are, for example, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 , air and alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the alkanes mentioned, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as the sole blowing agent.
  • the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons.
  • the sizes of the aerosol droplets or of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.
  • blowing agent used varies depending on the specific composition of the composition, the packaging used and the desired product type, such as hair spray or hair foam.
  • aerosol foam products contain the propellant preferably in amounts of 1 to 35 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Aerosol sprays generally contain larger amounts of propellant.
  • the blowing agent is used in this case in an amount of 30 to 98 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 40 to 95 wt .-%, in particular from 50 to 95 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the aerosol products can be prepared in the usual way.
  • all constituents of the respective agent with the exception of the propellant, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve.
  • the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.
  • a second subject of the invention is therefore a process in which the cosmetic agent according to the invention is applied to the hair as a pump hair spray, aerosol hair spray, pump hair foam, aerosol hair foam or styling gel and is optionally incorporated into the hair with the palms and / or fingers.
  • a third object of the invention is the use of the means according to the invention for the temporary deformation of keratinous fibers.
  • the compositions according to the invention and products which contain these agents are distinguished in particular by the fact that they give treated hair a very strong hairstyle hold, without rendering the hair brittle or inflexible. Rather, a pleasant, soft grip is achieved.
  • the formulation of the compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for cosmetic products, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the skin or hair as facial or hair tonic or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes , Gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations which are suitable for use on the skin or hair.
  • inventive styling agents A to F were prepared according to the following table.
  • Copolymer of sodium acrylate, vinyl neodecanoate (about 29% by weight of solids in water, INCI name: ACRYLATES / VINYL NEODECANOATE CROSSPOLYMER)
  • Aminimethicone with amine numbers of MEQ-Amine 0.075-0.095 / g (about 35% by weight of active substance in water, INCI name: AMINODIMETHICONE, CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, TRIDECETH-12) (Dow)

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Abstract

L’invention se rapporte à des agents pour modeler temporairement les fibres kératiniques en leur conférant une très bonne fixation sans renoncer à la souplesse des cheveux, à leur douceur ni à la texture agréable du produit. Ces agents contiennent dans un véhicule cosmétiquement acceptable au moins un copolymère A contenant au moins un motif constitutif de formule (I) dans laquelle R1 désigne -H ou -CH3 et R2 désigne –H, -CH3, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3 ou -CH(CH3)2, et au moins un autre motif constitutif différent du motif constitutif (I) de formule (II) dans laquelle R1 et R2, indépendamment l’un de l’autre, désignent -CH3, ‑CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3 ou -CH(CH3)2 et R3 désigne un radical hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, et au moins une huile silicone et/ou une gomme silicone.
PCT/EP2009/058107 2008-07-21 2009-06-29 Agents coiffants conférant aux cheveux de grandes qualités de fixation et de douceur WO2010009954A1 (fr)

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"Pearlized Conditioning Shampoo with Silicone Fluid Aculyn 38 Rheology Modifier, Kathon CG Preservative", INTERNET CITATION, 27 September 2005 (2005-09-27), pages 2PP, XP007910288, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://www.rhpersonalcare.com/pdf/Formulations/0071.pdf> [retrieved on 20091023] *

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