WO2009130090A1

WO2009130090A1 - Method for making up or caring for the eyelashes or eyebrows using a polysiloxane/polyurea block copolymer

Info

Publication number: WO2009130090A1
Application number: PCT/EP2009/053124
Authority: WO
Inventors: Stéphane Arditty
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2008-04-21
Filing date: 2009-03-17
Publication date: 2009-10-29
Also published as: FR2930142A1; FR2930142B1

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a method for making up or caring for the eyelashes or the eyebrows comprising the application, to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, of at least one coat of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one nonionic polysiloxane/polyurea block copolymer, at least one volatile nonsilicone organic solvent and at least one dye substance.

Description

METHOD FOR MAKING UP OR CARING FOR THE EYELASHES OR EYEBROWS USING A POLYSILOXANE/POLYUREA BLOCK COPOLYMER

The subject of the present invention is a method for coating the eyelashes or the eyebrows comprising the application, to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, of a composition comprising a polysiloxane/polyurea block copolymer .

The composition according to the invention may be provided in the form of a mascara or a product for the eyebrows. More especially, the invention relates to a mascara .

The expression mascara is understood to mean a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes: this may be a makeup composition for the eyelashes, a makeup base for the eyelashes, a composition to be applied over a mascara, also called top-coat, or a composition for the cosmetic treatment of the eyelashes. The mascara is more particularly intended for the eyelashes of human beings, but also for false eyelashes .

In general, makeup compositions for the eyelashes consist of at least one wax or a mixture of waxes dispersed in an aqueous liquid phase or in an organic solvent phase.

Anhydrous mascaras or mascaras with a low content of water and/or water-soluble solvents, called "waterproof mascaras" , formulated in the form of a dispersion of waxes in nonaqueous solvents and which have a good resistance to water or to sebum are known in particular.

However, the makeup film obtained after the application of these compositions is not sufficiently resistant to water, during swimming or showers for example, to tears or to perspiration or to sebum. The mascara then tends to run - appearance of halos under the eyes - or to crumble over time: grains are deposited and unaesthetic marks appear around the eyes.

To improve the staying power of so-called waterproof mascaras, it has been proposed to incorporate a fat-soluble film- forming polymer or a polymer in the form of a dispersion of particles in an organic solvent phase, in a high content of film- forming polymer. However, the presence of the film- forming polymer in a large amount results in a pasty texture of the composition which forms, after deposition on keratin fibres, a nonhomogeneous granular film lacking slip upon application. The aim of the present invention is therefore to provide a makeup or coating composition for keratin fibres, in particular the eyelashes or the eyebrows, having good properties of resistance to water, to sebum and/or to rubbing, which completely or partially solves the problems linked to the conventional formulation routes, and which can be easily removed.

Unexpectedly, the inventors have discovered that the use of a polysiloxane/polyurea block copolymer, in particular which is nonionic, formulated in the presence of an organic solvent and a pigment, makes it possible to obtain a composition having good resistance to water, to sebum and to rubbing. The composition thus obtained is also easy to remove.

The expression "resistance to water" is understood to mean, according to the present application, the resistance to water in vitro evaluated according to the following protocol:

The composition is applied to 3 test pieces of straight Caucasian hair 30 knots (60 eyelashes 1 cm long) length of fringe 2 cm, making 3 x 10 passes 2 minutes apart, with recovery of product between each series of 10. Each test piece is then dried at room temperature for a drying time of one hour.

The 3 made-up test pieces are immersed in a vessel containing water for a given time (1 hour, 24 hours or 1 week) . Five to-and-fro movements of the 3 test pieces are then performed on a square Wypall L40 type wipe from Kimberly-Clark.

The presence of a mark deposited by the test piece is then evaluated.

The expression "resistance to sebum" is understood to mean, according to the present application, the resistance to sebum in vitro evaluated according to the same measurement protocol as for the resistance to water described above, the difference being that the 3 made-up test pieces are immersed in a vessel containing squalene (the squalene is present at 18% in the composition of the sebum) , instead of water. The subject of the present invention is therefore a method for making up or caring for the eyelashes or the eyebrows comprising the application, to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, of at least one coat of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one nonionic polysiloxane/polyurea block copolymer, at least one volatile nonsilicone organic solvent and at least one dye substance.

By this method, a deposit is obtained on the eyelashes or the eyebrows which has good resistance to water and to sebum, and to rubbing. The said deposit is also easy to remove.

The subject of the present invention is also a makeup or care set for the eyelashes or the eyebrows comprising : - at least one composition comprising a nonionic polysiloxane/polyurea block copolymer, at least one volatile nonsilicone organic solvent and at least one dye substance , - and at least one applicator for the composition, the said applicator comprising means which make it possible to smooth and/or separate the eyelashes or the eyebrows .

The compositions in accordance with the invention are thus used for making up and/or caring for keratin fibres, in particular the eyelashes or the eyebrows, for example as mascaras .

The method for making up or coating the eyelashes or the eyebrows according to the invention consists in applying an effective quantity of the composition as described above, to the eyelashes or the eyebrows. APPLICATOR

The applicator contained in the makeup or care set according to the present invention comprises means which make it possible to smooth and/or separate the eyelashes or the eyebrows . These means may in particular be provided in the form of teeth, bristles or other reliefs.

The applicator may be used to apply the composition to the eyelashes or the eyebrows.

The applicator may also be used for finishing the makeup, on an area of the eyelashes or the eyebrows that has been made up or loaded with product by means of another applicator. The composition according to the invention may be collected from a vessel by dipping the application element therein.

The application part may optionally contain an element for closing a vessel containing the composition according to the invention.

The applicator may for example be provided in the form of a brush or a comb.

The brush may contain a twisted core and bristles held between the turns of the core, or may be made in yet another way.

The comb is for example made of a single part by moulding of plastic material.

The application element may be magnetic.

In some exemplary embodiments, the application element is mounted at the end of a wand, which may be flexible, which can contribute towards improving comfort during application.

The applicator may or may not comprise a reservoir containing the composition. When the applicator does not comprise a reservoir containing the composition, the composition is for example contained in a vessel and the application element is for example loaded with composition by being at least partially introduced into this vessel. The vessel may or may not comprise a draining part.

The reservoir may or may not be detachably attached to the applicator. When the reservoir is permanently attached to the applicator, in order to supply it with product, the wall of the reservoir serves for example for prehension of the applicator.

The set according to the invention may also contain at least two different application elements which may be selectively mounted on the applicator. The set will be understood more clearly on reading the detailed description which follows, of nonlimiting examples of the use thereof, and on examining the accompanying drawing, in which: figure 1 schemmatically represents, in partial longitudinal section, a packaging and application device in accordance with an exemplary embodiment of the invention.

Figure 1, to which reference is made, illustrates a packaging and application device 1 in accordance with one embodiment of the invention.

According to this embodiment, the packaging and application set comprises an applicator 2 and a vessel 3 containing a reservoir for a makeup product P, in this case a composition according to the invention, for example mascara. The vessel 3 is classic in the example illustrated and contains a body 5 provided with an externally threaded neck 6. A draining part 7 is attached inside the neck 6.

The applicator 2 contains an application element 10 constituted, in the example considered, by a mascara brush. The application element 10 is mounted at the end of a wand 11 whose other end is integrally attached to a box 13 containing an end part designed so as to screw onto the neck 6 and thus seal the vessel 3. In this figure, the brush has been very schematically represented so as to clearly illustrate the fact that the invention is not limited to a particular application element.

The brush 10 contains for example bristles whose ends are arranged like helical sheets.

The wand may be made with a constant or non- constant cross section.

Preferably, the wand 11 is flexible, it being possible for persons skilled in the art to choose the dimensions of the wand for example according to the nature of the application element, of the product and of the treatment to be carried out .

When the application part is configured in the form of a comb, the latter may be in conformity with what is described in particular in the publications US 2003-0089379-A1, US 6 655 390, US 6 814 084, US 6 675 814, US 6 581 610, US 6 546 937, US 6 539 950, US 6 412 496 or US 6 343 607, this list not being limiting. The invention is not limited to a particular application element and the latter may in particular be provided with a means which makes it possible to heat the product and/or the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows during application. Various modifications may be made to the exemplary embodiments which have just been described without departing from the scope of the present invention.

The application elements may be of any type, in particular having capillary grooves or the like. The application elements may be made in various ways, in particular by moulding, superinjection, fastening or twisting.

The application elements may be for single use, where appropriate. The application elements may be attached by any means to the application part, in particular by adhesive bonding, soldering, drop forging, snapping on, screwing, with magnets, by friction, by VELCRO® type coupling, by clamping between the jaws or arms of tweezers.

The application element may be driven in rotation, where appropriate, for example as described in patents US 4 937 326, US 4 922 934 and US 6 565 276.

The applicator contains in particular a plurality of application elements arranged on a support in the form of at least one row whose length is such that the application elements can best come simultaneously into contact with at most a quarter of the eyelashes or the eyebrows of the fringe so as to smooth them and/or separate them.

According to a preferred embodiment, the applicator according to the invention contains:

- a wand, - a support connected to the wand and extending along a longitudinal axis, and

- a plurality of application elements, only two in number where appropriate, arranged on the support and extending substantially at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the support.

Thus, according to a most particularly preferred embodiment, the applicator contains a plurality of application elements arranged on a support in the form of at least one row whose length is such that the application elements can best come simultaneously into contact with at most a quarter of the eyelashes or the eyebrows of the fringe.

The application elements may extend over a distance along the longitudinal axis of the support which is such that the application elements can best come simultaneously into contact with at most a quarter, or even a fifth or a sixth of the eyelashes or the eyebrows of the fringe, while the longitudinal axis of the support is oriented substantially tangentially to the fringe.

A portion of the made-up eyelashes or eyebrows may for example correspond to at most a quarter, or even a fifth or a sixth of the length of the fringe.

The application elements may contain teeth and/or bristles.

This applicator makes it possible to appropriately deposit the composition on the eyelashes or the eyebrows while exerting an optional combing action.

The application elements extend over the support over a sufficiently short distance to be able to make up one or more locks of eyelashes or eyebrows, which makes it possible to obtain novel makeup effects.

This applicator makes it possible to deposit in a sustained manner material over only at most a third, or even a quarter of the fringe of the eyelashes or the eyebrows to be made up, preferably the portion which is outside the fringe of eyelashes or eyebrows.

The application elements may for example extend over the support over a distance of between about 0.1 and 1 cm, for example less than or equal to 8 mm, or even 7 mm or 6 mm, for example a distance ranging from 2 mm to 5 mm approximately, for example between 2 mm and 3 mm . The applicator contained in the set according to the present invention may contain:

- a wand,

- a support connected to the wand and extending along a longitudinal axis, - at least one row of application elements, in particular consisting of teeth, arranged over the support, the application elements of the row each extending substantially at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the support and having free ends whose distance to the longitudinal axis varies non- monotonously on moving between the application elements at the far ends of the row.

The expression "varying non-monotonously" for the purposes of the present invention should be understood to mean that the line connecting the free ends of the application elements has a distance to the longitudinal axis of the support which passes through at least one extremum, for example one maximum.

The presence of a maximum in the row of application elements may allow gradual penetration of the application elements into the eyelashes or the eyebrows and thus facilitate the making up of a portion of the fringe of eyelashes or eyebrows for the purposes of the invention. The number of application elements of the row, in particular the number of teeth, may be for example between 3 and 9, preferably between 3 and 8, in particular between 3 and 7. According to one embodiment, the support and the application elements are made of a single part, in particular by moulding or machining. As a variant, the application elements may be mounted on the support.

The support and the wand may be made of a single part, in particular by moulding or, as a variant, the support may be mounted on the wand. In this case, the support may contain a tip designed to fit into a housing on the wand or the wand may contain a tip designed to fit into a housing of the support. The wand may extend along a longitudinal axis distinct from the longitudinal axis of the support.

In this case, the longitudinal axis of the wand may form, with the longitudinal axis of the support, in particular for the portion thereof which carries the application elements, an angle between 5° and 45°, in particular between 15° and 25°, for example equal to 20° approximately. This configuration may allow a more convenient handling of the applicator during the application of a makeup composition in accordance with the invention to the eyelashes or the eyebrows. The longitudinal axis of the support may be for example curvilinear or rectilinear.

The wand may, as a variant, extend along a longitudinal axis merged with the longitudinal axis of the support.

The applicator and/or the support may at least partially be made of a flexible or rigid material, in particular at least partially made of a thermoplastic, elastomeric or elastomeric thermoplastic material, in particular by moulding. There will be no departure from the scope of the present invention if the applicator is at least partially made of wood or of metal or of other materials, in particular by machining.

When the support is made of an elastically deformable material, this may make it possible to carry out preferential draining of one side of the support.

The wand and the support may or may not be made of different materials. When the applicator is viewed from the side, a line connecting the free ends of the application elements may have a distance to the longitudinal axis of the support which passes through at least one extremum, in particular a maximum, which may make the penetration of the applicator into the eyelashes more gradual .

The abovementioned line may have in particular, at least partially, a pointed, in particular triangular, or round, in particular circular or ogival, shape. Regardless of the profile of the abovementioned line, when there is a maximum and a minimum, the angle formed between, on the one hand, the straight line connecting the free ends of an application element of greater length associated with this maximum and an application element of shorter length associated with a minimum that is closest to the application element of greater length, and on the other hand the perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the support, this perpendicular passing through the free end of the application element of greater length, is for example between 25° and 60° approximately, in particular between 25° and 50°, in particular between 25° and 45°, for example between 30° and 45°, for example equal to 43° approximately. The distance from the abovementioned line to the longitudinal axis of the support may also pass through two extrema, or even more.

The application elements may be arranged in a single row or in at least two rows. In the latter case, the application elements of a first row and those of a second row may extend in different directions or, as a variant, in parallel directions. The two rows may for example be arranged substantially opposite each other relative to the support. The height of the application elements may be for example between 0.5 and 10 mm approximately, in particular between 1 and 3 mm approximately.

When the application elements are arranged in at least one row, the latter may contain a succession of application elements extending alternately, at least partially, on either side of a geometric surface of separation.

The application elements may have bases that are aligned or otherwise.

When the application elements are arranged in at least one row, the row may extend along a nonrectilinear axis. The application elements may also be produced alternately on either side of a median core.

Still when the application elements are arranged in at least one row, this row may contain a succession of application elements alternately located, at least partially, on either side of a geometric surface of separation, two consecutive application elements having adjacent parts that are contiguous or that overlap when the applicator is viewed from the side and forming with each other a hollow which makes it possible to receive an eyelash or an eyebrow therein. The applicator may contain a comb or a brush.

When the applicator contains a brush, the support may contain two twisted wires having a small diameter, in particular less than 0.7 mm, for example between 0.2 and 0.6 mm, even better between 0.35 and 0.5 mm. Still in the case where the applicator contains a brush, the application elements may be bristles having a small diameter, for example less than or equal to 8/100 mm, even better 6/100 mm.

When the brush contains a twisted core, the number of turns of the brush may be between 3 and 6, for example. In the case of a brush having a twisted core, the bristles extend from the core along two helical sheets. The number of turns of the brush corresponds to the sum of the revolutions around the core of the two sheets. Part of the twisted core may be free of bristles, in particular near the junction between the support and the wand. The cross section of the envelope surface of the brush may be circular, square or otherwise.

The brush may have a biconical envelope surface. The envelope surface may also be conical or frusto- conical with the base of the cone located on the side of the distal or proximal end of the brush. The applicator contained in the set according to the invention may take the form of a brush for the application of a product to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, containing a twisted core and bristles extending from the core, the number of turns being less than or equal to 6.

The applicator contained in the set according to the invention may also take the form of a brush for the application of a product to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, containing a core and bristles extending from the core, the length of the portion of the brush bearing the bristles being less than or equal to 8 mm, even better to 7 mm or even to 6 mm.

The applicator contained in the set according to the invention may contain a core and bristles extending from the core, contained in an envelope surface having a substantially frustoconical , conical or biconical shape, in which the smallest angle formed between a plane containing the largest cross section of the brush and a tangent to the envelope surface of the brush at the intersection with this plane is between 20° and 60°, in particular between 25° and 50°, for example between 30° and 35°.

The applicator contained in the set according to the invention may contain a core and bristles extending from the core, in which the envelope surface of the brush has a substantially biconical shape, with an apex angle at the junction of the truncated cones less than or equal to 120°, or even less than or equal to 90°.

The applicator contained in the set according to the invention may contain a support and teeth extending at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the support, the distance between the furthest teeth along the longitudinal axis being less than or equal to 8 mm, even better 7 mm, or even 6 mm.

The applicator contained in the set according to the invention may contain a support and teeth extending at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the support, containing a tooth of greater length having a first length and a tooth of shorter length having a second length, a comb in which the ratio of the first length to the second length is greater than or equal to 1.3.

The applicator contained in the set according to the invention may contain a support and teeth extending at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the support, in which the angle formed between a straight line joining the free end of a tooth of shorter length and the free end of a tooth of greater length and the perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the support passing through the free end of the tooth of greater length is between 20° and 60°.

The applicator according to the invention may be provided in the form of a brush containing an arrange- ment of bristles maintained by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is described in particular in patent US 4 887 622. It may also be in the form of a comb containing a plurality of application elements, obtained in particular by moulding. Such combs are described, for example, in patent FR 2 796 529.

The composition according to the invention may be packaged in a vessel delimiting at least one compartment which comprises the said composition, the said vessel being closed by a closing element. The vessel may be combined with the applicator.

The applicator may be integrally attached to the vessel, as patent FR 2 761 959 describes for example. Advantageously, the applicator is integrally attached to a wand which is itself integrally attached to the closing element.

The closing element may be coupled to the vessel by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closing element and the vessel is achieved other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet fitting mechanism, by snap fastening, or by tightening. The expression "snap fastening" is understood to mean in particular any system involving passing through a flange or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closing element, and then by returning to the elastically unstressed position of the said portion after passing through the flange or the bead.

The vessel may be at least partially made of a thermoplastic material. By way of examples of thermoplastic materials, there may be mentioned polypropylene or polyethylene.

Alternatively, the vessel is made of a non- thermoplastic material, in particular of glass or of metal or an alloy.

The vessel is preferably equipped with a draining device near the opening of the vessel . Such a draining device makes it possible to wipe the applicator and, optionally, the wand to which it may be integrally attached. Such a draining device is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618. COPOLYMER

In the present invention, the copolymer is a nonionic polysiloxane/polyurea copolymer, that is to say that it does not contain an ionized or ionizable group .

In the context of the invention, the expression block copolymer is understood to mean a copolymer consisting of at least two blocks distinct from each of the polymers constituting the copolymer in the copolymer backbone. For example, the copolymer of the invention contains at least one polysiloxane block and at least one polyurea block in the copolymer backbone.

The copolymer of the invention may comprise, in addition to the polysiloxane/polyurea, other blocks of different polymers, for example at least one polyurethane block. There may be mentioned in particular the polysiloxane/polyurea/polyurethane block copolymers .

According to a particular embodiment, the copolymer contains a quantity by weight of polysiloxane greater than 5%. According to a particular embodiment, the quantity of polysiloxane is predominant in the copolymer, preferably greater than 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer.

According to one variant, the copolymer solely contains one or more siloxane blocks and one or more polyurea blocks . The copolymer of the invention may comprise, in addition to the polysiloxane/polyurea, other blocks of different units. There may be mentioned in particular the polysiloxane/polyurea/polyurethane block ter- polymers . According to a particular embodiment, the copolymer contains a quantity by weight of polysiloxane greater than 5%. According to a particular embodiment, the quantity of polysiloxane is predominant in the copolymer, preferably greater than 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer.

According to one variant, the copolymer solely contains one or more siloxane blocks and one or more polyurea blocks .

According to the invention, the copolymer may correspond to the general formula (I) :

in which

R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical, where appropriate substituted with fluorine or chlorine, having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, X represents an alkylene radical having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in which methylene units that are not in close proximity may be replaced by -0- radicals, A represents an oxygen atom or an amino -NR' - radical ,

Z represents an oxygen atom or an amino -NR' - radical,

R' represents hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, Y represents a bivalent hydrocarbon radical, where appropriate substituted with fluorine or chlorine, having 1 to 20 carbon atoms,

D represents an alkylene radical, where appropriate substituted with fluorine, chlorine, Ci-C₆ alkyl or

Ci-C₆ alkyl ester, having 1 to 700 carbon atoms, in which methylene units that are not in close proximity may be replaced by radicals -0-, -COO-,

-OCO- or -OCOO-, n is a number ranging from 1 to 4000, a is a number of at least 1, b is a number ranging from 0 to 40, c is a number ranging from 0 to 30, and d is a number greater than 0, provided that A represents in at least one of the units (a) a radical NH.

Preferably, R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl, ethyl, vinyl and phenyl. According to a particular embodiment, R is an unsubstituted alkyl radical. Preferably, R represents a methyl radical.

Preferably, X represents an alkylene radical with 2 to 10 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alkylene radical X is not interrupted. Preferably, X represents a propylene radical .

According to a particular embodiment, the group A in all the units (a) represents NH. According to a particular embodiment, the group A in all the units (b) and (c) , when they are present, represents NH.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, all the groups A represent a radical NH (that is to say in all the units (a) , (b) and (c) ) .

Preferably, Z represents an oxygen atom or a radical NH (amino) .

Preferably, Y represents a hydrocarbon radical comprising from 3 to 13 carbon atoms, which is preferably unsubstituted. Preferably, Y represents a linear or cyclic alkylene or aralkylene radical.

Preferably, D represents an alkylene radical with at least 2, in particular at least 4 carbon atoms and at most 12 carbon atoms.

Also preferably, D represents a polyoxyalkylene radical, in particular a polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene radical with at least 20, in particular at least 100 carbon atoms and at most 800, in particular at most 200 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the radical D is not substituted.

Preferably, n represents a number of at least 3, in particular at least 25 and preferably at most 800, in particular at most 400, in a particularly preferred manner at most 250.

Preferably, a represents a number of more than 50.

When b is different from 0, b preferably represents a number of at most 50, in particular at most 25. Preferably, c represents a number of at most 10, in particular at most 5.

The copolymers of the invention may be obtained according to the methods of polymerization described in patent application US 2004/0254325 or application WO 03/014194.

The copolymer may thus be obtained by a two- stage method, such as:

- in the first stage, a silazane of general formula (2) or (2' ) :

W representing a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or a radical R₂Si-X-NH₂; is reacted with an organic silicon compound of general formula (3) : (HO) (R₂SiO)_n-_! [H] (3) so as to obtain an aminoalkylpolydiorganosiloxane of general formula (4)

H₂N-X-[SiR₂O]_nSiR₂-X-NH₂ (4)

- in a second stage, the aminoalkylpolydiorgano- siloxane of general formula (4) is polymerized with a diisocyanate of general formula (5) :

OCN-Y-NCO (5)

In general, in the first stage, the silazanes of general formula (2) or (2') and the reagents containing the silanol groups are used in equimolar ratios.

For the preparation of silicones with bisamino- alkyl ends that are very pure, of general formula (4) , a small excess of the silazane compound of general formula (2) or (2') is preferably used, which may then be removed, in a simple additional process step, such as for example the addition of small quantities of water .

If b is at least 1, it is possible to use, during the second stage, up to 95% by weight, based on all the components used, of chain extension agents, which are chosen from diamines, hydroxyl compounds that are blocked by an isocyanate, dihydroxyl compounds or mixtures thereof .

Preferably, the chain extension agents have the general formula (6) : HZ -X- ZH ( 6 ) where D and Z have the preceding meanings. If Z has the meaning O, the chain extension agent of general formula

(6) may also be caused to react before the reaction in the second stage, with the diisocyanate of general formula (5) . Where appropriate, water may be used as chain extension agent.

Examples of diisocyanates of general formula (5) to be used are aliphatic compounds such as isophorone- diisocyanate, hexamethylene-1 , 6 -diisocyanate, tetra- methylene-1 , 4 -diisocyanate and methylenedicyclohexyl- 4 , 4 ' -diisocyanate or aromatic compounds such as methylenediphenyl-4 , 4 ' -diisocyanate, 2 , 4-toluenediiso- cyanate, 2 , 5-toluenediisocyanate, 2 , 6-toluenediiso- cyanate, m-phenylenediisocyanate, p-phenylenediiso- cyanate, m-xylenediisocyanate, tetramethyl-m-xylene- diisocyanate or mixtures of these isocyanates. One example of a commercially available compound is a diisocyanate of the DESMODUR^® series (H, I, M, T, W) from Bayer AG, Germany. Aliphatic diisocyanates are preferred in which Y is an alkylene radical because they lead to materials which exhibit improved stability to UV.

The alkylenes with α,ω-0H ends of general formula (6) are preferably polyalkylenes or polyoxyalkylenes . These are preferably essentially free of contaminations of polyoxyalkylenes that are mono- or trifunctional or that have a higher functionality. It is possible to use here polyether polyols, polytetramethylene diols, polyester polyols, polycaprolactone diols, but also polyalkylenes with α,ω-0H ends based on poly (vinyl acetate), poly(vinyl acetate) -ethylene copolymers, poly (vinyl chloride) copolymers, polyisobutylene diols. Preferably, use is made of polyoxyalkylenes, in a particularly preferred manner, of polypropylene glycols. Such compounds are commercially available as base materials among others, for polyurethane foams and for uses such as coating, with molecular masses Mn of up to 10 000. Examples are the polyether polyols and polyester polyols BAYCOLL^® from Bayer AG, Germany or the polyether polyols Acclaim^® from Lyondell Inc., USA. Use may also be made of α, ω-alkylenediol monomers, such as ethylene glycol, propanediol, butanediol or hexanediol . On the other hand, the expression dihydroxylated compounds, for the purposes of the invention, is also understood to mean bishydroxyalkylsilicones, as provided for example by the company Goldschmidt under the names Tegomer H-Si 2111, 2311 and 2711.

The preparation of the copolymers described above of general formula (I) may be carried out in solution, but also in solid form, continuously or batchwise.

If the quantity of urethane or urea segments is high, a solvent is chosen which has a high solubility parameter, such as for example dimethylacetamide . THF may also be used. According to a particular embodiment, the synthesis of the copolymer is carried out without solvent . The synthesis is preferably carried out in the absence of moisture and under a protective gas, usually nitrogen or argon.

The reaction is preferably carried out in the presence of a catalyst. The catalysts appropriate for the preparation are dialkyltin compounds, such as for example dibutyltin dilaurate, dibutyltin diacetate, or tertiary amines such as for example N, N-dimethylcyclo- hexanamine, 2-dimethylaminoethanol , 4-dimethylamino- pyridine. According to a particular embodiment, the copolymer used in the present invention does not contain polyurethane .

By way of example of copolymer, there may be mentioned the dimethylpolysiloxane/urea copolymer, with the INCI name polyureadimethicone .

Such a polymer may be obtained in particular by copolymerization of an alpha, omega-aminosilicone with a diisocyanate . Polymers corresponding to these characteristics are for example the products marketed under the reference Wacker-Belsil^® UD 60, Wacker- Belsil^® UD 80, Wacker-Belsil^® UD 140 and Wacker-Belsil^® UD 200 by the company Wacker. VOLATILE NONSILICONE ORGANIC SOLVENT According to the invention, the composition applied to the eyelashes or the eyebrows contains at least one volatile nonsilicone organic solvent. In the context of the invention, the expression volatile solvent is understood to mean an organic compound that is liquid at room temperature (2O⁰C) and at atmospheric pressure, having a vapour pressure at 2O⁰C greater than 0.1 mmHg and preferably between 0.1 and 300 mmHg, more preferably still between 0.5 and 200 mmHg.

As volatile nonsilicone organic solvent, there may be mentioned:

• volatile Ci-C₄ alkanols such as ethanol, isopropanol;

• volatile C₅-C₇ alkanes such as n-pentane, hexane, cyclopentane, 2 , 3-dimethylbutane, 2 , 2-dimethylbutane, 2-methylpentane, 3-methylpentane,-

• volatile Ci-C₈ alcohols and liquid esters of Ci-C₂₀ acids such as methyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, isopentyl acetate, ethyl 3 -ethoxypropionate ; • volatile ketones that are liquid at room temperature such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone, acetone,-

• volatile polyols such as propylene glycol; • volatile ethers such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxyethane, diethyl ether;

• volatile glycol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol , butyl diglycol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol n-butyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate,-

• volatile hydrocarbon oils such as volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) , isododecane, isodecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, and mixtures thereof. Isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate may also be mentioned; • volatile C4-C10 perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, decafluoro- pentane,-

• volatile perfluorocycloalkyls such as perfluoro- methylcyclopentane , 1,3 -perfluorodimethylcyclohexane and perfluorodecalin, sold respectively under the names "Flutec PCI^®", "Flutec PC3^®" and "Flutec PC6^®" by the company F2 Chemicals, and perfluorodimethylcyclobutane and perfluoromorpholine,-

• volatile fluoroalkyl or heterofluoroalkyl compounds corresponding to the following formula:

CH₃-(CH₂)_n- [ZJ_t-X-CF₃ in which t is 0 or l; n is 0, I, 2 or 3; X is a linear or branched divalent perfluoroalkyl radical having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and Z represents 0, S or NR, R being hydrogen, a radical -(CH₂)_n-CH₃ or -(CF₂)_m-CF₃, m being 2, 3, 4 or 5 ; and mixtures thereof.

Among the volatile fluoroalkyl or heterofluoroalkyl compounds, there may be mentioned in particular the methoxynonafluorobutane sold under the name "MSX 4518^®", "HFE-7100^®" by the company 3M and the ethoxynonafluorobutane sold under the name "HFE-7200^®" by the company 3M.

Preferably, the solvent is chosen such that its boiling point is less than 200⁰C. Preferably, the volatile nonsilicone organic solvent is chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, acetone and isododecane.

The volatile nonsilicone organic solvent is generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 85% by weight. DYE SUBSTANCE The composition of the invention contains at least one dye substance such as pulverulent dye substances, fat-soluble dyes and water-soluble dyes.

The pulverulent dye substances may be chosen from pigments and pearlescent agents.

The pigments may be chosen from organic pigments and inorganic pigments.

Preferably, the dye substance is chosen from organic pigments, inorganic pigments and pearlescent agents.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression pigment is understood to mean any organic and/or inorganic entity whose solubility in water is less than 0.01% at 2O⁰C, preferably less than 0.0001%, and exhibiting an absorption between 350 and 750 nm, preferably an absorption with a maximum.

These pigments may be in the form of a pigment paste or powder. They may be coated or uncoated.

The pigment may be an inorganic pigment . The expression inorganic pigment is understood to mean any pigment which corresponds to the definition of the Ullmann encyclopaedia in the chapter inorganic pigment. There may be mentioned, among the inorganic pigments used in the present invention, titanium dioxide, surface-treated or not, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. For example, the following inorganic pigments may be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 as a mixture with TiO2 , ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2 , ZnS.

The non-surface-treated pigment, called pigment in the text which follows, may be an organic pigment. The expression organic pigment is understood to mean any pigment which corresponds to the definition of the Ullmann encyclopaedia in the chapter organic pigment. The organic pigment may be chosen in particular from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthra- quinone, phthalocyanin, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds .

In particular, the white or coloured organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanin blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives such as the derivatives described in patent FR 2 679 771.

The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles containing an inorganic nucleus, at least one binder bringing about the binding of the organic pigments to the nucleus, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the nucleus. The organic pigment may also be a lacquer. The expression lacquer is understood to mean the dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

Carmine may also be mentioned among the dyes. The dyes known under the following names may also be mentioned: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370) , D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410) , D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425) , D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430) , D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510) , D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200) , D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140) , D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985) , D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090) .

By way of examples of lacquers, there may be mentioned the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1) .

The dye substance may also be a pearlescent agent.

By way of example of pearlescent agents, there may be mentioned white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlesent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with iron oxides, mica coated with titanium and in particular with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and with an organic pigment as defined above as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. By way of pearlescent pigments, there may be mentioned the pearlescent agents Cellini marketed by Engelhard (Mica- TiO2-lacquer) , Prestige marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2) , Prestige Bronze marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3) , Colorona marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2O3) ,

In addition to the pearlescent agents on a mica support, it is possible to envisage the multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

The dye substance may also be a fat-soluble dye.

The fat-soluble dyes are for example Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto.

These dye substances may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. VOLATILE SILICONE OIL

The composition of the invention may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil having a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 centistokes (cst, or mm²/s) , a viscosity measured at 25⁰C. Such a low-viscosity silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicones having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, for example octa- methylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltri- siloxane, heptamethylethyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl- octyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl- tetrasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the silicone oil is chosen from cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane .

According to a particular embodiment, the silicone oil has a viscosity of less than 50 centistokes. The silicone oil having a viscosity of less than 100 cst may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 80% by weight and preferably ranging from 5% to 70% by weight. OTHER SILICONE COMPOUNDS

In order to obtain better spreading of the composition of the invention and improved coating of the eyelashes or the eyebrows, the composition of the invention may also contain one or more polysiloxanes having a viscosity greater than 100 cst, preferably greater than 300 cst. The viscosity of these polysiloxanes may be measured according to the ASTM D-445 standard. Such polysiloxanes may be oils, gums or silicone resins, grafted silicones and crosslinked silicones .

As polysiloxanes having a viscosity greater than 100 cst, there may be mentioned in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones ; polyphenyl- methylsiloxanes such as phenyldimethicones, phenyl - trimethicones and vinylmethylmethicones ; and silicones modified by optionally fluorinated aliphatic and/or aromatic groups or by functional groups such as hydroxyl , thiol and/or amine groups .

Such polysiloxanes may be chosen from the silicones of formula (I) :

in which :

Ri , R₂ , R₅ and R₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R₃ and R₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an aryl radical, an amine radical, a hydroxyl radical, X is an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl radical, an amine radical, n and p being integers chosen so as to obtain a viscosity greater than 300 cst.

By way of example, the following polydimethyl- siloxanes may be mentioned: o the substituents Ri to R₆ and X represent a methyl group, such as that sold under the name Baysilicone TP 3898 by the company General Electric, and that sold under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker, o the substituents Ri to R₆ and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the molecular weight is 120 000 g/mol, such as that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Corning, o the substituents Ri to R₆ and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the molecular weight is 250 000 g/mol, such as that sold under the name Mirasil DM 500.000 by the company Rhodia and that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500.000 cst by the company Dow Corning, o the substituents Ri to R₆ represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, n and p are such that the molecular weight of the polymer is 600 000 g/mol, such as that sold under the name SGM 36 by the company Dow Corning, o the dimethicones of the (polydimethyl- siloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane) type such as SE63 marketed by GE BAYER Silicones, the poly (dimethyl - siloxane) (diphenyl) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymers, and mixtures thereof .

The polysiloxane may be in the form of a resin.

The term "resin" is understood to mean a crosslinked or non-crosslinked three-dimensional structure. By way of example of polysiloxane resin, silsesquioxanes and siloxysilicates may be mentioned.

The nomenclature of silicone resins is known by the name of "MDTQ" , the resin being described according to the various monomeric siloxane units which it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing one type of unit.

The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (CH₃) ₃Si0i_/2, the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

The letter D means a difunctional unit (CH₃) ₂Si0_2/2 in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms .

The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (CH₃)SiO₃₇₂.

In the units M, D, T defined above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted by a group R different from the methyl group such as a hydrocarbon

(in particular alkyl) radical having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group or a hydroxyl group.

Finally, the letter Q means a tetrafunctional unit SiO_4/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms which are themselves bonded to the remainder of the polymer. Various resins with different properties may be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units) , the type and number of substituted radicals, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the pendent chains.

By way of example of these silicone resins, there may be mentioned: siloxysilicates which may be trimethylsiloxy- silicates of formula (XXI) :

[⁽CH₃ ⁾ ₃-Si-O]_x- ⁽SiO₄/₂ ⁾y ⁽XXI⁾

(units MQ) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, polysilsesquioxanes of formula (CH₃Si0_3/2)χ (units T) in which x is greater than 100 and in which at least one of the methyl radicals may be substituted by a group R as defined above, polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in the document US 5,246,694 whose content is incorporated by reference.

By way of examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, there may be mentioned those which are marketed: by the company WACKER under the reference RESIN MK such as BELSIL PMS MK: polymer comprising CH₃SiO_3/2 repeating units (units T) , which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH₃) ₂Si0_2/2 units (units D) and having an average molecular weight of about 10 000, by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are compounds of units T of formula CH₃SiO_3/2 and have Si-OH (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% of units T and 2% of dimethyl units D and have Si-OH end groups or alternatively under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of units T and 12% of dimethyl units D and have Si-OH end groups .

As siloxysilicate resins, there may be mentioned the trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are marketed under the reference SRlOOO by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC or under the reference TMS 803 by the company WACKER. There may also be mentioned the trimethylsiloxysilicate resins marketed in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, which are sold under the name "KF- 7312J" by the company SHIN-ETSU, "DC 749", "DC 593" by the company DOW CORNING. In one embodiment of the invention, the polysiloxanes useful in the composition of the invention are soluble or dispersible in the composition of the invention. In one embodiment, the silicone resin is solid at 25⁰C. When it is present in the composition of the invention, the polysiloxane (s) whose viscosity is greater than 100 cst are introduced in a quantity generally between 0.1% and 30% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 20% by weight and preferably between 0.1 and 10% by weight.

NONVOLATILE ORGANIC SOLVENT

The composition of the invention may contain nonvolatile organic solvents such as:

• nonvolatile aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol ;

• esters of C1-C20 acids that are liquid and of C1-C8 alcohols that are nonvolatile, such as isopropyl myristate,^•

• ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate; butylene carbonate;

• nonvolatile polyols such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol,

• nonvolatile glycol ethers such as diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n- butyl ether;

• nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils such as isohexadecane ;

• nonvolatile liquid C10-C30 fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, liquid C10-C30 fatty alcohol esters such as C10-C30 fatty alcohol benzoates and mixtures thereof; polybutene oil, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl malate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, tridecyl trimelate,- • nonvolatile perfluorinated solvents such as perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene sold under the name "Flutec PC11^®" by the company F2 Chemicals.

The content of nonvolatile organic solvent in a composition according to the invention may vary from 0.01 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and better from 0.1 to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition. STRUCTURING AGENT

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one agent for structuring the oily or organic solvent phase (formed by the volatile or nonvolatile oils or organic solvents described above) , which is chosen from waxes, semicrystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof. The structuring agent may represent from 5 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 7 to 75%, and more preferably still from 10 to 55% by weight.

The quantity of oily structuring agent may be adjusted by persons skilled in the art according to the structuring properties of the said agents. Wax (es)

The wax considered in the context of the present invention is in general a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25⁰C) , which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and which has a melting point greater than or equal to 3O⁰C which may range up to 200⁰C and in particular up to 12O⁰C.

Upon bringing the wax to the liquid state (melting) , it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax from the oils of the mixture is obtained. In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45⁰C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55⁰C. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO standard 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured with the aid of a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is the following:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first rise in temperature ranging from -2O⁰C to 100⁰C, at the heating rate of 10°C/minute, and is then cooled from 100⁰C to -2O⁰C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -2O⁰C to 100⁰C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the summit of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature .

The waxes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

The waxes which may be used in the compositions according to the invention generally exhibit a hardness ranging from 0.01 MPa to 15 MPa, in particular greater than 0.05 MPa and in particular greater than 0.1 MPa.

The hardness is determined by measuring the compression force, measured at 2O⁰C, with the aid of the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2 by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder having a diameter of 2 mm, moving at the measurement speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrating into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. The measurement protocol is the following:

The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax +1O⁰C. The molten wax is poured into a vessel having a diameter of 25 mm and a depth of 20 mm. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25⁰C) for 24 hours such that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, and then the wax is stored for at least 1 hour at 2O⁰C before carrying out the measurement of the hardness or of the tack.

The texturometer spindle is moved at the speed of 0.1 mm/s, and then penetrates into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. When the spindle has penetrated into the wax to the depth of 0.3 mm, the spindle is held still for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then withdrawn at a speed of 0.5 mm/s.

The value of the hardness is the measured maximum compression force divided by the surface area of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.

By way of illustration of waxes suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned in particular hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese wax; rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, Esparto wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher- Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and esters thereof .

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C₈-C₃₂ fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned in particular isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company DESERT WHALE under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba- 50^® , hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated copra oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di (1,1,1 - trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S^® by the company HETERENE.

Silicone waxes and fluorinated waxes may also be mentioned.

It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64^® and

22L73^® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.

According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one wax termed tacky wax, that is to say having a tack greater than or equal to 0.1 N.s and a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa.

The tacky wax used may have in particular a tack ranging from 0.1 N.s to 10 N.s, in particular ranging from 0.1 N.s to 5 N.s, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 5 N.s and better ranging from 0.3 to 2 N.s.

The tack of the wax is determined by measuring the variation in the force (compression force) as a function of time, at 2O⁰C, according to the protocol indicated above for the hardness.

During the relaxation time of I s, the force

(compression force) decreases substantially until it becomes zero, and then, during the withdrawal of the spindle, the force (stretching force) becomes negative, and then increases again toward the value 0. The tack corresponds to the integral of the curve of the force as a function of time for the part of the curve corresponding to the negative values of the force. The tack value is expressed in N.s.

The tacky wax which may be used generally has a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa. As tacky wax, use may be made of a C₂₀-C₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.

Such a wax is in particular sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P^®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P^®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

In the present invention, it is also possible to use waxes provided in the form of small particles having a size expressed as mean "effective" volume diameter D [4.3] of the order of 0.5 to 30 micrometres, in particular from 1 to 20 micrometres, and more particularly from 5 to 10 micrometres, designated in the text that follows by the expression "microwaxes" .

The size of the particles may be measured by various techniques; there may be mentioned in particular (dynamic and static) light scattering techniques, Coulter counter methods, sedimentation rate measurements (linked to size via Stoke' s law) and microscopy. These techniques make it possible to measure a particle diameter and for some of them a particle size distribution.

Preferably, the sizes and size distributions of the particles of the compositions according to the invention are measured by static light scattering by means of a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of nonspherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is in particular described in the manual by Van de Hulst, H. C, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

The composition is characterized by its mean "effective" volume diameter D[4.3] , defined in the following manner: ∑V. d, tfch-yy- where V₁ represents the volume of the particles having an effective diameter Ci₁. This parameter is in particular described in the technical documentation of the granulometer . The measurements are carried out at 25⁰C, on a dilute dispersion of particles, obtained from the composition in the following manner: 1) dilution by a factor of 100 with water, 2) homogenization of the solution, 3) allowing the solution to stand for 18 hours, 4) recovering the whitish homogeneous supernatant .

The "effective" diameter is obtained by taking a refractive index of 1.33 for water and a mean refractive index of 1.42 for the particles. As microwaxes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular Carnauba microwaxes such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350^® by the company MICRO POWDERS, the microwaxes of synthetic wax such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S^® by the company MICRO POWDERS, the microwaxes constituted of a mixture of Carnauba wax and polyethylene wax such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300^® and 310^® by the company MICRO POWDERS, the microwaxes constituted of a mixture of Carnauba wax and synthetic wax such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325^® by the company MICRO POWDERS, the polyethylene microwaxes such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200^®, 220^®, 220L^® and 250S^® by the company MICRO POWDERS and the polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519^® and 519 L^® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a content of waxes ranging from 5 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular it may contain from 7 to 50%, more particularly from 10 to 45% thereof. Semicrystalline polymers

The expression polymer is understood to mean compounds containing at least two repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and more especially at least 10 repeating units. The expression "semicrystalline polymer" is understood to mean polymers containing a crystallizable part, a crystal- lizable pendent chain or a crystallizable block in the backbone, and an amorphous part in a backbone and having a first order reversible phase transition temperature, in particular of melting (solid-liquid transition) . When the crystallizable part is in the form of a crystallizable block of the polymer backbone, the amorphous part of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous block; the semicrystalline polymer is in this case a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, containing at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block. The expression "block" is generally understood to mean at least 5 identical repeating units. The crystallizable block (s) are in this case of a chemical nature different from the amorphous block (s) .

The semicrystalline polymer has a melting temperature greater than or equal to 3O⁰C (in particular ranging from 3O⁰C to 8O⁰C) , preferably ranging from 3O⁰C to 6O⁰C. This melting temperature is a first order change of state temperature.

This melting temperature may be measured by any known method and in particular with the aid of a differential scanning calorimeter (D. S. C) .

Advantageously, the semicrystalline polymer (s) to which the invention applies have a number-average molecular mass greater than or equal to 1000. Advantageously, the semicrystalline polymer (s) of the composition of the invention have a number-average molecular mass Mn ranging from 2000 to 800 000, preferably from 3000 to 500 000, even better from 4000 to 150 000, in particular less than 100 000, and even better from 4000 to 99 000. Preferably, they have a number-average molecular mass greater than 5600, ranging for example from 5700 to 99 000. The expression "crystallizable chain or block" is understood to mean, for the purposes of the invention, a chain or block which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, according to whether the temperature is above or below the melting temperature. A chain, for the purposes of the invention, is a group of pendent or side atoms relative to the polymer backbone. A block is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, the "crystallizable pendent chain" may be a chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms .

The semicrystalline polymer may be chosen from block copolymers containing at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block, the homo- polymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain per repeating unit, and mixtures thereof .

Such polymers are described, for example, in the document EP 1396259.

A. Semicrystalline polymers containing crystal- lizable side chains

There may be mentioned in particular those defined in the documents US-A-5 , 156 , 911 and WO-A-01/19333. They are homopolymers or copolymers containing from 50 to 100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing a crystallizable hydrophobic side chain.

These homo- or copolymers are of any type as long as they meet the conditions indicated above.

B. Polymers bearing at least one crystallizable block in the backbone

These polymers are in particular block copolymers constituted of at least 2 blocks of a different chemical nature, one of which is crystallizable.

It is possible to use the block polymers defined in patent US-A-5, 156 , 911 ; the block copolymers of olefin or cycloolefin containing a crystallizable chain, such as those derived from the block polymerization of: cyclobutene, cyclohexene, cyclooctene, norbornene (that is to say bicyclo (2.2.1) -2-heptene) , 5-methylnorbornene, 5-ethylnorbornene, 5 , 6 -dimethyl - norbornene, 5 , 5 , 6-trimethylnorbornene, 5-ethylidene- norbornene, 5-phenylnorbornene, 5-benzylnorbornene, 5-vinylnorbornene, 1,4,5, 8-dimethano-l , 2 , 3 , 4 , 4a, 5 , 8a- octahydronaphthalene, dicyclopentadiene or mixtures thereof, - with ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, 3 -methyl - 1-butene, 1-hexene, 4 -methyl -1-pentene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-eicosene or mixtures thereof, and in particular copoly (ethylene/norbornene) blocks and (ethylene/propylene/ethylidene-norbornene) block terpolymers . It is also possible to use those resulting from the block copolymerization of at least 2 C₂-Ci₆ and even better C₂-Ci₂ and better still C₄-Ci₂ α-olefins such as those mentioned above and in particular the block bipolymers of ethylene and of 1-octene.

The copolymers may be copolymers having at least one crystallizable block, the remainder of the copolymer being amorphous (at room temperature) . These copolymers may additionally have two crystallizable blocks of a different chemical nature. The preferred copolymers are those which possess, at room temperature, both a crystallizable block and an amorphous block that is both hydrophobic and lipophilic, and which are sequentially distributed; there may be mentioned for example the polymers having one of the crystallizable blocks and one of the amorphous blocks which follow: block which is crystallizable by nature: a) polyester such as poly (alkylene terephthalate) , b) polyolefin such as polyethylenes or polypropylenes, amorphous and lipophilic block such as the amorphous polyolefins or copoly (olefin) s such as poly (isobutylene) , hydrogenated polybutadiene, hydrogenated poly (isoprene) . As examples of such copolymers containing a distinct crystallizable block and a distinct amorphous block, there may be mentioned, α) the poly ( ε-caprolactone) -b-poly (butadiene) block copolymers, which are preferably used hydrogenated, such as those described in the article "Melting behavior of poly ( ε-caprolactone) -block- polybutadiene copolymers" by S. Nojima, Macromolecules, 32, 3727-3734 (1999) . β) the hydrogenated block or multiblock poly (butyleneterephthalate) -b-poly (isoprene) block copolymers cited in the article "Study of morphological and mechanical properties of PP/PBT" by B. Boutevin et al., Polymer Bulletin, 34, 117-123 (1995) . γ) the poly (ethylene) -b-copoly (ethylene/propylene) block copolymers cited in the articles "Morphology of semi-crystalline block copolymers of ethylene-

(ethylene-alt-propylene) " by P. Rangarajan et al . ,

Macromolecules, 26, 4640-4645 (1993) and "Polymer aggregates with crystalline cores: the system poly (ethylene) -poly (ethylene-propylene) " by P. Richter et al., Macromolecules, 30, 1053-1068 (1997) . δ) the poly (ethylene) -b-poly (ethylethylene) block copolymers cited in the general article "Cristallization in block copolymers" by I. W. Hamley, Advances in Polymer Science, vol. 148, 113-137 (1999) .

Preferably, the semicrystalline polymers of the composition according to the invention are non- crosslinked. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer containing a crystallizable chain, chosen from saturated Ci₄ to C₂₄ alkyl (meth) acrylates, Cu to Ci₅ perfluoroalkyl (meth) acrylates, C_i4 to C₂₄ N-alkyl

(meth) acrylamides with or without a fluorine atom, vinyl esters containing C_i4 to C₂₄ alkyl or perfluoro- alkyl chains, vinyl ethers containing Ci₄ to C₂₄ alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, C_i4 to C₂₄ alpha-olefins, para-alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, with at least one optionally fluorinated Ci to Ci₀ monocarboxylic acid ester or amide, which may be represented by the following formula:

in which Ri is H or CH₃, R represents an optionally fluorinated Ci-Ci₀ alkyl group and X represents 0, NH or NR₂, where R₂ represents an optionally fluorinated Ci-Ci₀ alkyl group.

According to a more specific embodiment of the invention, the polymer is derived from a monomer containing a crystallizable chain, chosen from saturated Ci₄ to C₂₂ alkyl (meth) acrylates . By way of a particular example of a structuring semicrystalline polymer which can be used in the composition according to the invention, there may be mentioned the products Intelimer^® from the company Landec described in the brochure "Intelimer^® polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97) . These polymers are in solid form at room temperature (25⁰C) . They bear crystallizable side chains and have the above formula X. Lipophilic gelling agents The gelling agents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents .

As inorganic lipophilic gelling agent, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays such as hectorites modified with Ci₀ to C₂₂ fatty acid ammonium chloride such as the hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride such as, for example, the one marketed under the name Bentone 38V^® by the company ELEMENTIS.

Mention may also be made of the optionally surface hydrophobic treated pyrogenic silica whose particle size is less than 1 μm. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. Silanol groups may in particular be substituted by hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating pyrogenic silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane . Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA

(6th edition, 1995) . They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812^® by the company

DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-530^® by the company CABOT, - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are in particular obtained by treating pyrogenic silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or of dimethyldichlorosilane . Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995) . They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972^®, and Aerosil R974^®" by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610^® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720^® by the company CABOT. The hydrophobic pyrogenic silica has in particular a particle size which may be in the nanometre to micrometre range, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are for example the partially or completely crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, having a three- dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6^®, KSG16^® and KSG18^® by the company SHIN-ETSU, Trefil E-505C^® and Trefil E-506C^® by the company DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC^®, SR DMF10^®, SR-DC556^®, SR 5CYC gel^®, SR DMF 10 gel^® and SR DC 556 gel^® by the company GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204^® and JK 113^® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as the one sold under the name Ethocel^® by the company DOW CHEMICAL; polycondensates of the polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (α) at least one acid chosen from dicarboxylic acids comprising at least 32 carbon atoms such as dimeric fatty acids and (β) an alkylenediamine and in particular ethylenediamine, in which the polyamide polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with at least one monoalcohol or one monoamine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular the ethylenediamine/stearyl dilinoleate copolymers such as the one marketed under the name Uniclear 100 VG^® by the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL; silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in the documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 , 919 , 441 , US-A-6, 051,216 and US-A-5 , 981 , 680 , such as for example those marketed under the reference Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant by the company DOW CORNING; galactomannans containing from 1 to 6 , and in particular from 2 to 4 , hydroxyl groups per monosaccharide, substituted with a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated with Ci to C₆, and in particular Ci to C₃, alkyl chains, and mixtures thereof. The "diblock" , "triblock" or "radial" type block copolymers of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type such as those marketed under the name Luvitol HSB^® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene/ copoly (ethylene-propylene) type such as those marketed under the name Kraton^® by the company SHELL CHEMICAL CO or alternatively of the polystyrene/copoly (ethylene- butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star- shaped) copolymers in isododecane such as those marketed by the company PENRECO under the name Versagel^® such as for example the mixture of butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene/propylene/styrene star- shaped copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960) .

Among the lipophilic gelling agents which may be used in the compositions according to the invention, there may also be mentioned dextrin esters and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those marketed under the names Rheopearl TL^® or Rheopearl KL^® by the company CHIBA FLOUR. FILM-FORMING POLYMER

The composition according to the invention may comprise, according to a specific embodiment, at least one film- forming polymer.

The film- forming polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter

(or active substance) content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and even better from 1% to 15% by weight. In the present invention, the expression "film- forming polymer" is understood to mean a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of a film- forming aid, a macroscopically continuous and adherent film on the keratin fibres, and preferably a cohesive film, and better still a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that the said film can be isolated and handled separately, for example when the said film is made by casting on a non-stick surface such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.

Among the film- forming polymers which can be used in the composition of the present invention, there may be mentioned synthetic polymers, of the free-radical type or of the polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

The expression free-radical film-forming polymer is understood to mean a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers containing in particular ethylenic unsaturation, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (in contrast to polycondensates) .

The free-radical type film-forming polymers may be in particular vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

The vinyl film- forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and/or esters of these acid monomers and/or amides of these acid monomers . As a monomer bearing an acid group, use may be made of α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid and itaconic acid. Use is preferably made of (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.

The esters of acid monomers are advantageously chosen from the esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates) , especially alkyl, in particular Ci-C₃₀, preferably Ci-C₂O alkyl, (meth) acrylates, aryl , in particular C₆-Ci₀ aryl, (meth) acrylates, hydroxyalkyl , in particular C₂-C₆ hydroxyalkyl , (meth) acrylates .

Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, there may be mentioned methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate and cyclohexyl methacrylate .

Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, there may be mentioned hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate .

Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, there may be mentioned benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

The esters of (meth) acrylic acid which are particularly preferred are alkyl (meth) acrylates .

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters may be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted with fluorine atoms.

As amides of the acid monomers, there may be mentioned for example (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular of a C₂-C₁₂ alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, there may be mentioned N-ethylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide, N-t-octylacrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide .

The vinyl film- forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers . In particular, these monomers may be polymerized with acid monomers and/or their esters and/or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

As examples of vinyl esters, there may be mentioned vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t -butyl benzoate .

As styrene monomers, there may be mentioned styrene and alpha-methylstyrene .

Among the film- forming polycondensates, there may be mentioned polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins and polyureas .

The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether- polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof .

The polyesters may be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.

The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. There may be mentioned as examples of such acids: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2, 2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclo- hexanedicarboxylic acid, 1, 4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2 , 5-norbornanedicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2 , 5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2 , 6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen.

The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. A diol is preferably used which is chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1 , 3 -propanediol , cyclohexane- dimethanol, 4-butanediol . As other polyols, use may be made of glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol and trimethylolpropane .

The polyester amides may be obtained in a manner similar to the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As diamine, use may be made of ethylenediamine, hexamethylene- diamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine . As amino alcohol, monoethanolamine may be used.

The polyester may additionally comprise at least one monomer bearing at least one -SO₃M group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH₄ ⁺ or a metal ion, such as for example an Na⁺, Li⁺, K+, Mg²⁺, Ca²⁺, Cu²⁺, Fe²⁺, Fe³⁺ ion. It is possible to use in particular a bifunctional aromatic monomer containing such an -SO₃M group.

The aromatic ring of the bifunctional aromatic monomer additionally bearing an -SO₃M group as described above may be chosen for example from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl , sulphonyldiphenyl and methylenediphenyl rings . There may be mentioned as examples of bifunctional aromatic monomers additionally bearing an -SO₃M group: sulphoisophthalic acid, sulphoterephthalic acid, sulphophthalic acid, 4-sulphonaphthalene-2 , 7- dicarboxylic acid. The use of copolymers based on isophthalate/sulphoisophthalate, and more particularly of copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol , isophthalic acid and sulphoisophthalic acid is preferred.

The optionally modified polymers of natural origin may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers and mixtures thereof .

According to a first embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film- forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer and may be present in an aqueous phase of the composition; the polymer is therefore solubilized in the aqueous phase of the composition. As examples of water-soluble film- forming polymers, there may be mentioned: proteins such as proteins of plant origin, such as wheat or soybean proteins,- proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulphonic keratins; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethyl- cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, and quaternized derivatives of cellulose; acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates ; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,- copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as : gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum,- alginates and carrageenans ,- glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives ,- shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals ,- deoxyribonucleic acid; mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulphates, and mixtures thereof . According to another variant embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film- forming polymer may be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic solvents or oils such as those described above (the film-forming polymer is then said to be a fat-soluble polymer) . The expression "liquid fatty phase" is understood to mean, for the purposes of the invention, a fatty phase which is liquid at room temperature (25⁰C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, that is 10⁵ Pa) , composed of one or more fatty substances which are liquid at room temperature, such as the oils described above, which are generally compatible with each other.

Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally mixed with a nonvolatile oil, it being possible for the oils to be chosen from the oils mentioned above.

By way of example of a fat -soluble polymer, there may be mentioned copolymers of vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) and of at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present) , an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms) , an alkyl vinyl ether (in which the alkyl group contains from 2 to 18 carbon atoms) , or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) .

These copolymers may be crosslinked with the aid of crosslinking agents which may be either of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate and divinyl octadecanedioate .

As examples of these copolymers, there may be mentioned the copolymers: vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, vinyl acetate/vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate/octadecene, vinyl acetate/ octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/allyl laurate, vinyl propionate/vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate/ 1-octadecene, vinyl acetate/1 -dodecene, vinyl stearate/ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate/allyl acetate, vinyl 2, 2-dimethyloctanoate/vinyl laurate, allyl 2 , 2-dimethylpentanoate/vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate/ vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate/vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% of divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% of divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% of tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% of divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate/1 -octadecene crosslinked with 0.2% of divinylbenzene and allyl propionate/allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% of divinylbenzene.

As fat-soluble film-forming polymers, there may also be mentioned fat-soluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Such fat -soluble copolymers may be chosen from copolymers of polyvinyl stearate, polyvinyl stearate crosslinked with the aid of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, copolymers of polystearyl (meth) acrylate, polyvinyl laurate, polylauryl (meth) acrylate, it being possible for these poly (meth) acrylates to be crosslinked with the aid of ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate .

The fat -soluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303 ; they may have a weight -average molecular weight ranging from 2000 to 500 000 and preferably from 4000 to 200 000.

As fat-soluble film-forming polymers which can be used in the invention, there may also be mentioned polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cl to C8 alkyl radical such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and a C2 to C40 and even better C3 to C20 alkene . By way of example of a VP copolymer which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned the VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) , VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene, VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

There may also be mentioned silicone resins, which are generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The nomenclature for silicone resins is known under the name of "MDTQ" , the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomer units which it comprises, each of the letters "MTDQ" characterizing one type of unit.

By way of examples of polymethylsilsesquioxane resins which are commercially available there may be mentioned those which are marketed: by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK; by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L.

As siloxysilicate reins, there may be mentioned trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as the one marketed under the reference SRlOOO by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. There may also be mentioned the trimethylsiloxysilicate resins marketed in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF- 7312J" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by the company Dow Corning .

Mention may also be made of the copolymers of silicone resins such as those mentioned above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers marketed by the company Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA and described in the document US 5 162 410 or alternatively the silicone copolymers derived from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and of a diorganosiloxane as described in the document WO 2004/073626.

The film- forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles in dispersion in an aqueous phase or in a nonaqueous solvent phase, generally known by the name of latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to persons skilled in the art. As an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, use may be made of the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK- 90^®, Neocryl A- 1070^®, Neocryl A-1090^®, Neocryl BT-62^®, Neocryl A-1079^® and Neocryl A- 523^® by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, Dow Latex 432^® by the company DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD^® or Daitosol 5000 SJ^® by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760^® by the company Interpolymer or alternatively aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names Neorez R- 981^® and Neorez R- 974^® by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, Avalure UR-405^®, Avalure UR-410^®, Avalure UR-425^®, Avalure UR-450^®, Sancure 875^®, Sancure 861^®, Sancure 878^® and Sancure 2060^® by the company GOODRICH, Impranil 85^® by the company BAYER, Aquamere H-1511^® by the company HYDROMER; the sulphopolyesters sold under the trade name Eastman AQ^® by the company Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions such as Mexomere PAM^® from the company CHIMEX and mixtures thereof .

As examples of nonaqueous dispersions of film- forming polymer, there may be mentioned acrylic dispersions in isododecane such as Mexomere PAP^® from the company CHIMEX, dispersions of particles of a grafted ethylenic, preferably acrylic, polymer in a liquid fatty phase, the ethylenic polymer being advantageously dispersed in the absence of an additional stabilizer at the surface of the particles as described in particular in document WO 04/055081.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer which promotes the formation of a film with the film- forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from all the compounds known to persons skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function. FILLERS

The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one filler.

The fillers may be chosen from those which are well known to persons skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers may be inorganic or organic, lamellar or spherical. There may be mentioned talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of polyamide such as Nylon^® marketed under the name Orgasol^® by the company Atochem, poly- β -alanine and polyethylene, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers such as Teflon^®, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile such as those marketed under the name Expancel^® by the company Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those marketed under the name Polytrap^® by the company Dow Corning, particles of polymethyl methacrylate and microbeads of silicone resin (Tospearls^® from Toshiba, for example) , precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow microspheres of silica (Silica Beads^® from MAPRECOS) , glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

It is also possible to use a compound capable of swelling under heat and in particular heat -expandable particles such as non-expanded microspheres of copolymer of vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methyl methacrylate or of acrylonitrile homopolymer copolymer such as for example those marketed respectively under the references Expancel^® 820 DU 40 and Expancel^®007WU by the company AKZO NOBEL.

The fillers may represent from 0.1 to 25%, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may additionally comprise any additive customarily used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, preservatives, fibres, perfumes, neutralizing agents, gelling agents, thickeners, vitamins, coalescing agents, plasticizers and mixtures thereof . FIBRES

The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise fibres which allow a lengthening effect .

The expression "fibre" should be understood to mean an object having a length L and a diameter D such that L is considerably greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the section of the fibre is inscribed. In particular, the ratio L/D (or aspect ratio) is chosen from the range from 3.5 to 2500, in particular from 5 to 500, and more particularly from 5 to 150.

The fibres which can be used in the composition of the invention may be fibres of synthetic or natural, inorganic or organic origin. They may be short or long, unitary or organized, for example plaited, hollow or solid. Their shape may be of any type and in particular of a circular or polygonal (square, hexagonal or octagonal) section according to the specific application envisaged. In particular, their ends are blunt and/or smooth in order to avoid injury.

In particular, the fibres have a length ranging from 1 μm to 10 mm, in particular from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and more particularly from 0.3 mm to 3.5 mm. Their section may be contained in a circle having a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 μm, in particular ranging from 100 nm to 100 μm and more particularly from 1 μm to 50 μm. The weight or linear density of the fibres is often given in denier or decitex and represents the weight in grams per 9 km of thread. The fibres according to the invention may in particular have a linear density chosen in the range from 0.15 to 30 denier and in particular from 0.18 to 18 denier.

The fibres which can be used in the composition of the invention may be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibres, they may be of synthetic or natural origin, inorganic or organic .

Moreover, the fibres may or may not be surface- treated, may be coated or uncoated, and may be coloured or uncoloured.

By way of fibres which can be used in the composition according to the invention, there may be mentioned non-rigid fibres such as polyamide fibres

(Nylon^®) or rigid fibres such as polyimide-amide fibres such as those sold under the names KERMEL^®, KERMEL TECH^® by the company RHODIA or poly (p-phenylene- terephthalamide) (or aramide) fibres in particular sold under the name Kevlar^® by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS. The fibres may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.3% to 3% by weight.

AQUEOUS PHASE

The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase, preferably in dispersed form. This phase may be present in a quantity of between 0.1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In this case, the composition may comprise an emulsifying system and/or a hydrophilic gelling agent. Emulsifying system The composition according to the invention may contain emulsifying surfactants present in particular in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, even better from 1 to 15% and even better from 2 to 10%.

According to the invention, it is possible to use an emulsifying system appropriately chosen in order to obtain a water-in-oil emulsion. In particular, it is possible to use an emulsifier having, at 25⁰C, an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) according to the meaning of GRIFFIN, less than or equal to 8.

The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

These surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants or alternatively surfactant emulsifiers. Reference may be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical

Technology, KIRK-OTHMER" , volume 22, p. 333-432,

3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of the surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants .

The surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are in particular chosen from nonionic surfactants having an HLB of less than 8 at 25⁰C, such as: esters and ethers of monosaccharides such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan stearate and mixtures thereof such as Arlatone 2121^® marketed by the company ICI; esters of fatty acids (in particular C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, acid) and of polyol, in particular of glycerol or of sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate such as the product sold under the name TEGIN M^® by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312^® by the company HULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl ricinoleate,- the mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C^® by the company DOW CORNING.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more anionic or amphoteric surfactants in order to obtain a water-in-oil emulsion.

Hydrophilic gelling agent

The composition according to the invention may comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent. The hydrophilic gelling agents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention may be chosen from: homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and their esters and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL F^® or VERSICOL K^® by the company ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD 8^® by the company CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K type, copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN^® by the company HERCULES, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name DARVAN N°7^® by the company VANDERBILT, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name HYDAGEN F^® by the company HENKEL, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of the PEMULEN type,

AMPS (polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulphonic acid partially neutralized with aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by the company CLARIANT, AMPS/acrylamide copolymers of the SEPIGEL^® or

SIMULGEL^® type marketed by the company SEPPIC, and

AMPS/polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or non-crosslinked) , and mixtures thereof . The water-soluble film-forming polymers mentioned above can also act as hydrophilic gelling agent.

The hydrophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 0.01% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, even better from 1% to 30% by weight, or even from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. The expression "anhydrous" is understood to mean a composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 3% by weight. Preferably, the composition is free of added water. The compositions in accordance with the invention may also contain at least one agent customarily used in cosmetics, chosen for example from reducing agents, fatty substances, plasticizers, emollients, antifoaming agents, moisturizing agents, UV-screening agents, inorganic colloids, solubilizers, perfumes, proteins or vitamins .

The above additives are generally present in a quantity, for each of them, of between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Of course persons skilled in the art will be careful to choose this or these optional additive (s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the formation of the coating in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired.

EXAMPLES

In the following examples, the following test protocols are used: Test protocol for resistance to rubbing in the dry state:

The made-up test piece is then positioned perpendicularly above a sheet of paper and rubbed with the aid of a hard brush of the Keracils^® type (30 passes) . The quantity of grains thus formed, recovered on the sheet of paper, is evaluated. Test protocol for makeup removal :

A cotton pad is impregnated with makeup remover, in this case Bifacil from Lancδme, and then the cotton pad is applied to the eyelashes and left in contact for a few seconds (5 seconds for example) .

Finally, the eyelashes are gripped and then pulled with the cotton pad, and the number of cotton pads necessary to remove the makeup is evaluated. EXAMPLE 1

The following composition is prepared:

Preparation: A pregel of the copolymer in alcohol, and of the dimethicone in cyclopentasiloxane, is first prepared, and then the pregels and the pigment are mixed. The staying power of the composition obtained on the eyelashes is then tested by the protocols described in the description but also by the following tests:

The results for staying power obtained with this formulation are excellent. EXAMPLE 2 :

The following composition is prepared:

under the name DC200 Fluid 60000 cs

Preparation: A pregel of the copolymer in alcohol, and of the dimethicone with the pigment in isododecane, is first prepared, and then the pregels are mixed.

The staying power of the composition obtained on the eyelashes is then tested by the protocols described in the description but also by the following tests:

This composition exhibits good staying power. EXAMPLE 3 :

The following composition is prepared:

Preparation: A pregel of the copolymer in alcohol, and of the dimethicone, bentone, propylene carbonate and pigment in isododecane, is first prepared, and then the pregels are mixed.

This composition exhibits good staying power. EXAMPLE 4:

The following composition is prepared:

Preparation: A pregel of the copolymer in alcohol is first prepared. A dispersion of waxes in isododecane gelled with bentone in the presence of propylene carbonate, dimethicone and pigments is prepared. The pregel is then added.

Claims

1. Method for making up or caring for the eyelashes or the eyebrows comprising the application, to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, of at least one coat of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one nonionic polysiloxane/polyurea block copolymer, at least one volatile nonsilicone organic solvent and at least one dye substance.

2. Method according to Claim 1, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one volatile silicone oil.

3. Method according to either of Claims 1 and 2, in which the copolymer contains at least one polyurethane block.

4. Method according to either of Claims 1 and 2, in which the copolymer contains only polysiloxane blocks and polyurea blocks .

5. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the quantity of polysiloxane in the copolymer is predominant in the copolymer, preferably greater than 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer .

6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polysiloxane/polyurea copolymer corresponds to the general formula (I) :

in which

R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, which can be substituted with one or more fluorine or chlorine atoms,

X represents an alkylene radical having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in which methylene units that are not in close proximity may be replaced by -0- radicals,

A represents an oxygen atom or an amino -NR' - radical,

Z represents an oxygen atom or an amino -NR' - radical, R' represents hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, Y represents a bivalent hydrocarbon radical, where appropriate substituted with fluorine or chlorine, having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, D represents an alkylene radical, where appropriate substituted with fluorine, chlorine, Ci-C₆ alkyl or Ci-C₆ alkyl ester, having 1 to 700 carbon atoms, in which methylene units that are not in close proximity may be replaced by radicals-O-, -COO-,

-OCO- or -OCOO-, n is a number ranging from 1 to 4000, a is a number of at least 1, b is a number ranging from 0 to 40, c is a number ranging from 0 to 30, and d is a number greater than 0, provided that A represents in at least one of the units (a) a radical -NH-.

7. Method according to Claim 6, characterized in that, in formula (I), R is methyl.

8. Method according to Claim 6 or 7 , in which in formula (I), X is propylene.

9. Method according to any one of Claims 6 to 8 , in which in formula (I) , Z is an amino radical or an oxygen atom .

10. Method according to any one of Claims 6 to 9 , in which in formula (I) , Y is an aralkylene radical or a linear or cyclic alkylene radical.

11. Method according to any one of Claims 6 to 10, in which in formula (I) , A represents a radical -NH- in all the units (a) .

12. Method according to Claim 11, in which A represents NH in all the units (a) , (b) and (c) .

13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the volatile nonsilicone organic solvent is chosen from volatile Ci-C₄ alkanols, volatile C₅-C₇ alkanes, volatile Ci-C₈ alcohols and liquid esters of Ci-C₂O acids, volatile ketones that are liquid at room temperature, volatile polyols, dimethoxymethane, diethoxyethane, diethyl ether, volatile glycol ethers, volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile C4-C10 perfluoroalkanes, volatile perfluorocycloalkyls, volatile fluoroalkyl or heterofluoroalkyl compounds corresponding to the following formula:

CH₃ - ( CH₂ ) _n- [ Z J _t -X- CF₃ in which t i s 0 or l ; n i s 0 , I , 2 or 3 ; X i s a l inear or branched divalent perfluoroalkyl radical having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and Z represents 0, S or NR, R being hydrogen, a radical -(CH₂)_n-CH₃ or -(CF₂)_m-CF₃, m being 2, 3, 4 or 5 ; and mixtures thereof.

14. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the volatile nonsilicone organic solvent is chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, acetone and isododecane.

15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dye substance is chosen from organic pigments, inorganic pigments and pearlescent agents .

16. Makeup or care set for the eyelashes or the eyebrows comprising: - at least one composition comprising a nonionic polysiloxane/polyurea block copolymer, at least one volatile nonsilicone organic solvent and at least one dye substance, - and at least one applicator for the composition, the said applicator comprising means which make it possible to smooth and/or separate the eyelashes .